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see, 

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V . Z 


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33d  Congress,) 
1 st  Session.  ) 


HO,  OF  REPS. 


5 Executive, 
( No.  53. 


EXPLORATION 


OF  THE 


VALLEY  OF  THE  AMAZON, 


MADE  UNDER  DIRECTION  OF 


THE  NAVY  DEPARTMENT, 


BY 

wm,  lewis  Herndon  and  lardner  gibbon, 

LIEUTENANTS  UNITED  STATES  NAVY. 


PART  II. 

BY  Lt.  LARDNER  GIBBON, 


WASHINGTON : 

A.  O.  P.  NICHOLSON,  PUBLIC  PRINTER. 

1854. 


\ % % % ^ ^ Td* 


MESSAGE  FROM  THE  PRESIDENT  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 


TRANSMITTING 

THE  SECOND  PART  OF  LIEUTENANT  HERNDON’S  REPORT  OF  THE  EXPLORA- 
■ TION  OF  THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  AMAZON. 


January  6, 1854. — Resolved,  That  there  be  printed,  for  the  use  of  the  members  of  the  House, 
ten  thousand  extra  copies  of  the  report  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy  communicating  the  reports 
of  the  exploration  of  the  river  Amazon  and  its  tributaries,  made  by  Lieutenants  Herndon  and 
Gibbon,  with  the  accompanying  maps  and  plates. 

April  13,  1854. — Resolved , That  there  be  printed  twenty  thousand  additional  copies  of  the 
reports  of  the  surveys  and  explorations  of  the  river  Amazon,  with  the  plates  and  maps  accom- 
panying, by  Lieutenants  Herndon  and  Gibbon — two  hundred  and  fifty  copies  for  distribution  by 
Lieutenant  Herndon,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  copies  by  Lieutenant  Gibbon,  and  the  remainder 
for  the  use  of  the  members  of  the  House. 


To  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives : 

I herewith  transmit  a communication  from  the  Secretary  of  the 
Navy,  accompanied  by  the  second  part  of  Lieut.  Herndon’s  Report  of 
the  Exploration  of  the  Valley  of  the  Amazon  and  its  tributaries,  made 
by  him,  in  connexion  with  Lieut.  Lardner  Gibbon,  under  instructions 
from  the  Navy  Department. 

FRANKLIN  PIERCE. 

Washington,  February  10,  1854. 


Navy  Department,  February  10,  1854. 

To  the  President. 

Sir:  In  compliance  with  the  notice  heretofore  given  and  communi- 
cated to  Congress  at  its  last  session,  I have  the  honor  herewith  to  trans- 
mit the  second  part  of  the  Report  of  the  “ Exploration  of  the  Valley  of 
the  Amazon,  made  under  the  direction  of  the  Navy  Department,  by 
William  Lewis  Herndon  and  Lardner  Gibbon,  lieutenants  of  the  United 
States  navy.” 

The  first  part  of  the  exploration  referred  to  was  transmitted  to  Con- 
gress by  the  Executive  on  the  9th  of  February,  1853,  and  has  been 
printed.  (See  “ Senate  Executive  No.  36,  32d  Congress,  2d  session.”) 
The  second  part,  wdiich  completes  the  report,  is  the  result  of  the  labors 
of  Lieutenant  Lardner  Gibbon,  after  his  separation  at  Tarma,  on  the, 
20th  June,  1851,  from  Lieutenant  Herndon,  the  senior  officer  of  the  ex- 
ploring party. 

I have  the  honor  to  be,  writh  the  highest  consideration,  your  obedient 
servant, 


J.  C.  DOBBIN. 


IV 


CORRE  SPONDE  NCE 


Washington,  D.  C.,  February  '7,  1854. 

Sir  : I have  the  honor  to  submit,  herewith,  a report  of  an  explora- 
tion of  the  countries  drained  by  certain  tributaries  of  the  Amazon,  made 
by  Lieutenant  Gibbon  during  the  years  1851-’52. 

It  will  be  recollected  by  the  department  that,  at  Tarma,  in  Peru,  I 
divided  my  party,  and  confided  a portion  of  it  to  Mr.  Gibbon’s  direction. 
This  report  is  the  result  of  Mr.  Gibbon’s  labors  consequent  upon  that 
division,  and  will  form  Part  II  of  the  “Exploration  of  the  Valley  of  the 
Amazon.” 

I have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

WM.  LEWIS  HERNDON, 

Lieutenant  IT.  S.  Navy. 

Hon.  James  C.  Dobbin, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy , Washington. 


Washington,  D.  C.,  January  25,  1854. 
Sir  : By  instructions,  a report,  accompanied  by  maps  and  sketches  of 
scenery  in  South  Peru,  Bolivia,  and  Madeira  river,  in  Brazil,  made  by 
me  to  the  Navy  Department,  is  herewith  submitted. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

LARDNER  GIBBON, 
Lieutenant  U.  S.  Navy. 

Lieut.  William  L.  Herndon,  U.  S.  A”., 

Commanding  Amazon  Exploring  Expedition , Washington. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 


Page. 


Tarma — Inca  road — Juaja  valley — Quichua  Indians — Trade — Juaja  river — Snow  moun- 
tains— Stone  bridge  and  stone  coal— Temperature  of  springs — Llamas— Lieutenant  of 
police — Quicksilver  mines  of  H uancavelica — Wool  growing — Molina  Posta,  or  Country 
tavern — Silver  mines  of  Castro-Vireinas — Population  of  Iluancavelica — Its  mineral 
productions — Sandstone  pyramids — Chicha  and  chupe — A New  Englander  among  the 
Andes— Fruits  and  flowers  of  Huanta — Blacksmiths 1 


CHAPTER  II. 

Gold  and  silver  ornaments — Bridal  trip  on  the  Andes — Manufacturers  of  bark  rope — Cot- 
ton trees — Winds  and  currents  of  the  mountains — Population — Cultivation — Flocks 
of  sheep — Frosty  nights — Reports  of  Robbers — Shoemaker — Ancient  fortification — In- 
.dians  travelling — Condor’s  wings — A padre  on  the  road — Sugar-cane  patches — Spanish 
creoles — An  African  slave — Apurimac  bridge — Cabbage  patch — Peruvian  widow — Bull 
fight — Fish  and  horned  cattle — Cuzco — Market  place — Steamboat  navigation — Eastern 
side  of  the  Andes — Coca  plantations — Head  of  Madre-de-Dios — Rivers  Cosnipata, 

Tono  and  PifiipiBi — Forests — Tigers — Monkeys — Chuncho  savages — View  of  the  low- 
lands from  a peak  of  the  Andes — Cinchona  bark  gatherer 27 

CHAPTER  III. 

College  of  Sciences  and  Arts  at  Cuzco — Students — Library — Popularity  of  Fenimore 
Cooper’s  works — Convents — Cock-pits — Procession — Condition  of  the  Aborigines  ante- 
rior to  the  Incas — Manco  Capac  and  his  wife — Their  language — Antiquities — Incas  for- 
tress— Worship  of  the  planetary  bodies — Suspicion  of  intercourse  between  ancient 
civilized  Asia  and  south  Peru — Temperature  of  bull’s  blood — Reception  of  the  prefect’s 
family — Sham  fight  among  the  Quichua  Indians — Barley  and  corn  crops — Trade — Loss 
of  Paititi — Thermal  springs — Hospitality  of  a Cura — Lampa — Gold  mines  of  Carabaya — 

Lake  Titicaca — Appearance  of  the  Indians — Puno  military — Niggardly  soil 55 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Manto  silver  mine — Trade — Shores  of  Lake  Titicaca— Rush  balsas— Animals— Loftiest 
mountains — Aymara  Indians — Mode  of  cultivation — Bottled  fish — Frontier  of  Peru — 
Rio  Desaguedero — Rush  bridge — Bolivia  military  and  custom-house — Southeast  trade- 
winds — Tiahuanaco  ruins — Evaporation  and  precipitation — Planting  small  potatoes — 
Difficulty  among  postillions — City  of  La  Paz — Population — Cinchona  bark — Beni  river 
and  Madeira  Plate — Transit  duty — Gold  washings  of  Tipuani — Productions  of  Y ungas — 
Dried  mutton  and  copper  mines — Articles  of  the  last  constitution — A Bolivian  lady’s 
opinion  of  North  Americans — Illimani  snow  peak — Church  performances  of  the  Ay- 
maras — Benenguela  silver  mines — Growth  of  cedar  bushes • • • • 


96 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V. 


Page. 


Silver  mines  of  Sieasiea — Productions  of  the  Puna,  or  Table  lands — An  exile  returning 
home — Department  of  Oruro — Silver,  copper,  and  tin — Climate — A cliieha  factorer — The 
expedition  out  of  Titicaca  Basin,  and  into  Madeira  Plate — Department  of  Potosi — Pop- 
ulation, climate,  and  productions — Bio  l’ilcomayo — Mint— -Quicksilver  trade — Imper- 
fect mining  operations — Smuggling  of  precious  metals — Statistics  of  silver — Trade 
with  the  Argentine  confederation— Port  of  Cobija — Desert  of  Atacama — Eastern  side 
of  the  Andes — Frosty  mountain  tops  and  thermal  streams — A washwoman — Cinchona 
bark  ascending  to  the  South  Pacific — Department  of  Cochabamba — Increase  of  creoles — 

Incas  colony  of  Quichua  Indians — Hail  storm — Gardens — Fig  trees — City  of  Cocha- 
bamba—Hospitality  of  the  merchants— The  President  of  Bolivia  and  his  cabinet— 
Commercial  proposition — Brazilian  minister — President  Belzu— Cavalry  and  infantry — 
Armor  of  the  Bolivian  troops — Public  force — Calacala  gardens — Market  people — Kio 
Matnore — Legislative  power — Church  ceremony — Climate — A bishop’s  opinion  of  the 
consequences  of  steamboat  navigation — Cabinet  ministers— Reception  of  a Farmer  by 
the  President— Heavy  shock  of  an  earthquake — Sudden  departure  of  the  government— 

Clisa  fair — Trade  to  the  Pacific  coast 121 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Market  place — Cinchona  bark — Funeral  ceremonies— Longevity — Kindness  of  British 
and  Brazilian  ministers — French  schoolmistresses — Ancient  habitations — Sucre,  the 
capital — Departments  of  Chuquisaca  and  Tarija — River  Berntejo — Distribution  of  vege- 
table life — Visit  to  Lake  Uara-uara — Snowline — Balls — Theatre — Department  of  Santa 
Cruz— Creole  population — Daily  life — Province  of  Chiquitos — Indians — Labors  of  the 
Jesuits — Paraguay  river 146 

CHAPTER  VII. 


Diamonds — Animals  of  Chiquitos — Decree  of  1837,  and  act  of  Congress — SeBor  Oliden’s 
voyage  on  the  Paraguay  river — Salt — Fall  of  trees — Descending  the  mountains — Mon- 
key meat — Coca  plant — Espiritu  Santo — Creole  workmen — A night  in  the  wild  woods — 
Yuracares  hunting — River  San  Mateo — Province  of  Yuracares 169 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Cinchona  forests — Indians  shooting  fish — Department  of  the  Beni — Vinchuta — Small 
pox — Caniehanas  boat’s  crew — Cotton  cloth  and  silver  coins — Our  faithful  servant  JosO 
Casas  and  the  mules — Trade  at  Vinchuta — A night  on  Coni  creek — Embarkation  at 
the  base  of  the  Andes — Ch apart!  river — Canoe  life — Floods — Bark  cloth — Pick  up  the 
sick — Indians  at  prayers  in  the  wilderness — Lassoing  an  alligator 193 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Pass  the  mouth  of  Chimore  river — White  cranes — Rio  Mamore— Woodbridge’s  Atlas — 

Night  watch — “ Masi”  guard-house — Pampas— Ant-houses — Cattle — Religion— Sugar 
cane — Fishing  party  of  Mojos  Indians — River  Y bare — Pampas  of  Mojos — Pasture 
lands — City  of  Trinidad— Prefect — Housed  in  Mojos — Don  Antonio  de  Barras  Cordoza — 
Population  of  the  Beni — Cotton  Manufactures — Productions — Trade — Don  Antonio’s 
Amazonian  boats — Jesuits — Languages — Natural  intelligence  of  the  Aborigines — Paint- 
ings— Cargoes  of  foreign  goods  in  the  plaza 218 

CHAPTER  X. 

Horned  cattle  and  horses — “ Peste  ” — Salt  trade — Church  service — Bull  fight — Mariano 
Cuyaba — Rules  and  regulations  of  the  town — Laws  and  customs  of  the  Creoles— A walk 
through  the  plaza  at  midnight — Scenes  on  the  road  to  the  town  of  Loreto — Annual 
deluge— The  beasts,  birds,  and  fishes — Loreto— Inhabitants — Grove  of  tamarind  trees — 
Winds  of  the  Madeira  Plate — A bird-hunter — Trapiche — A black  tiger  burnt  out— De- 
parture in  Brazilian  boats — Enter  the  MamorO  river  again — An  Indian  overboard 


240 


CONTENTS 


Vll 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Page. 


Exaltacion— Cayavabo  Indians — Descending  the  Mamorfi  river— Indians  shooting  fish — 
Houbarayos  savages  and  birds  at  midnight — Ascend  the  Itenez  river — Forte  do  Princi- 
pe da  Beira,  in  Brazil — Negro  soldiers — Kind  attention  of  the  commandante — Favora- 
ble notice  of  the  expedition  by  the  President  of  Matto  Grosso — The  wilderness — Friend- 
ship of  Don  Antonio,  his  boat,  and  a crew  of  negro  soldiers — Departure  for  the  Madeira 
river — Birds  and  fishes  congregated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Itenez — On  the  Mamorfi  river 
again — A negro  soldier’s  account  of  the  Emperor’s  service — Roar  of  “Guajara-merim” 

Falls 283 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Jacares  savages — Mouth  of  the  Beni  river — Obstructions  to  steamboat  navigation — Ma- 
deira river  falls — Lighten  the  boat — Pot  holes — Granite — Pedrcneira  falls — Caripuna 
savages — Pedro  milks  a savage  woman — Bilious  fever — Arrive  at  the  foot  of  San  Anto- 
nio falls — The  impracticability  of  navigating  by  steamboats  the  falls  of  the  Mamore  and 
Madeira  rivers — Proposed  road  through  the  territory  of  Brazil  to  Bolivia — Physical 
strength  of  the  white,  black,  and  red  men,  compared  under  a tropical  climate — Taman- 
dua  island — Turtle  eggs — Oil-hunters — Borba — Mouth  of  the  Madeira  river 287 


APPENDIX. 

Observations  with  the  sextant  and  artificial  horizon— Meteorological  observations — Table 
of  distances  in  South  Peru  and  Bolivia  by  government  measurement — Boiling  water 
measurements  of  heights  above  sea  level — Map  of  roads  and  rivers,  with  situation  of 
mineral  wealth 315 


4 


*> 


' V > 


LIST  OF  PLATES 


Page. 

Llamas  traversing  the  Andes  laden  with  silver,  (to  face  title  page.) 

View  to  the  east  of  Juaja,  (Peru) 6 

Encamped  near  Huancayo,  valley  of  Juaja,  (Peru) 8 

(tuichua  Indian  family  and  hut,  (Peru) 10 

Alpacas  on  the  Cordilleras,  near  Huancavelica,  (Peru) 12 

JIatriz  de  San  Antonio,  Huancavelica,  (Peru) 16 

View  to  the  south  from  Huanta,  (Peru) 24 

Matara  post-house 28 

Camp  Ladron,  (Peru) 32 

Ruin  of  the  Incas  Fort,  Quramba,  (Peru) 34 

Apurimac  bridge,  (Peru) 38 

Descending  the  Andes  to  the  east  of  Cuzco 44 

Coca  plantation,  (Peru) 46 

Rio  Madre-de-Dios 50 

North  view  of  the  remains  of  the  Incas  fort,  Sacsahuamam,  Cuzco 75 

Agua  Caliente  Posta,  (Peruvian  tavern) 86 

Titicaca  Balsa,  off  Puno 94 

View  of  Nevada  de  Sorata,  from  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Titicaca,  (Peru) 100 

Illimani  snow-peak  ; Vicunas  pasturing  with  the  sheep  on  the  Puna  of  Bolivia 117 

Cochabamba  market-women 146 

Ancient  (luiehua  Indian  hut,  Cochabamba,  (Bolivia) 152 

La  Laguna  de  Uara-uara 156 

Yuracares  plantation 184 

Yuracares  Indians  shooting  fish 194 

San  Mateo  ferry,  (Bolivia) 196 

Vinchuta,  (Bolivia) 200 

Descending  the  river  Mamore,  (Bolivia) 220 

Housed  in  Mojos 230 

Maria  Nosa,  Casemira  Nacopearu,  Jose  Vicente,  Cayuba,  Juana  Jua 246 


X 


PLATES 


Page. 

Plaza  de  Trinidad,  (Bolivia) * 253 

Don  Antonio’s  Amazonian  boats,  Exaltacion,  (Bolivia) 964 

Brazil  shore  of  the  ltenez  river 272 

View  down  the  river  ltenez,  from  Forte  do  Principe  da  Beira,  (Brazil) 274 

Descending  Ribeirao  falls,  Madeira  river,  (Brazil) 292 

Matua  and  his  brother  Manft,  Caripuna  boys,  and  their  bark  canoe 294 

Crossing  the  mouth  of  the  Madeira  river,  (Brazil) 312 


PREFACE. 


Washington  City,  January  25,  1854. 

Sir:  A Passed  Midshipman,  suddenly  drawn  from  duty  at 
the  National  Observatory,  in  Washington,  to  enter  upon  an 
exploration  of  distant  lands  and  rivers,  among  strange  and 
divers  people,  will  not  be  expected  to  furnish  a polished  re- 
port of  observations  made  under  many  disadvantages. 

In  revising  notes,  hastily  scribbled  upon  a mule’s  back,  on 
mountains,  or  in  a canoe,  the  writer  has  endeavored  to  present 
familiar  images  of  the  objects  he  saw,  as  they  impressed  him 
at  the  time,  leaving  intelligent  readers  to  draw  their  own  con- 
clusions from  his  facts,  or  the  best  information  he  could  gain 
from  reliable  sources  on  the  route. 

The  statesman,  the  planter,  the  merchant,  the  farmer,  the 
manufacturer,  or  the  artisan,  can  estimate,  from  every-day  oc- 
% currences,  in  what  manner  habits  and  customs  of  inhabitants 
of  the  southern  continent,  or  productions  of  its  climates,  lands, 
rivers,  forests,  and  mifl^s,  may  advantage  the  industry  or 
promote  the  enterprise  of  the  people  of  the  United  States  of 
North  America. 

Being  limited  by  instructions,  the  writer  commences  his 
observations  at  the  division  of  the  naval  party  at  Tarma,  in 
Peru,  and  closes  them  on  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  Madeira 
river,  in  Brazil. 

Descriptions  of  fishes  collected  from  snow-water  lakes  and 
streams  in  Peru  or  Bolivia,  and  from  rivers  in  Brazil,  botanical 
specimens,  varieties  of  birds,  different  ores,  earth,  and  metals 
procured  on  the  journey,  are  unavoidably  omitted. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

LARDNER  GIBBON, 

Lieutenant  U.  S.  Navy. 

Hon.  James  C.  Dobbin, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy , Wash  ington. 


. 


* 


- 


* 


CHAPTER  I. 


Tarma — Inca  road — Juaga  valley — Quichua  Indians — Trade — Juaja  river — 
Snow  mountains — Stone  bridge  and  stone  coal — Temperature  of  springs — 
Llamas — Lieutenant  of  police — Quicksilver  mines  of  Huancavelica — Wool 
growing — Molina  Posta,  or  country  tavern — Silver  mines  of  Castro — 
Yirreyna — Population  of  Huancavelica — Its  mineral  productions — Sand-stone 
pyramids— Chicha  and  chupe — A New-Englander  among  the  Andes — Fruits 
and  flowers  of  Huanta — Blacksmiths. 

Tarma,  a small  town  in  Peru,  by  alpha  and  beta,  Centauri,  in  lati- 
tude 11°  25'  south,  is  situated  in  a rich,  well-cultivated,  narrow  valley, 
between  the  Andes  range  of  mountains  on  the  east,  and  the  lofty  Cor- 
dillera chain  on  the  west. 

On  the  9th  of  July  1851,  the  'writer  turned  southeast,  accompanied 
by  Henry  C.  Richards,  a native  of  Virginia,  in  the  United  States,  and 
Jose  Casas,  of  Spanish  descent,  native  of  Peru. 

A volunteer  mestizo,  Arriero,  with  his  little  son,  drove  a train  of  mules 
which  carried  the  baggage. 

Our  path  was  shaded  by  willow  trees,  and  the  way  obstructed  with 
droves  of  llamas,  loaded  with  rock  salt  from  mines  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. 

The  leaves  of  the  trees  seemed  calling  for  water,  while  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air,  at  mid-day,  in  the  shade,  was  68°  Fahrenheit.  Peach 
and  apple-tree  leaves  doubled  up,  showing  both  their  edges  to  the  sun ; 
the  fruit  is  small,  oblong,  and  unthrifty -looking. 

The  ravine  through  which  we  ascend  is  thickly  populated  with 
Quichua  Indians.  Their  houses  are  built  of  stone  and  mud,  and 
thatched  with  coarse  mountain  grasses. 

The  natives  are  busily  employed  gathering  in  the  harvest  of  maize, 
which  is  small-grained  and  of  four  colors,  red,  white,  yellow,  and  blue. 
It  is  of  excellent  quality,  generally  used  as  food,  roasted  or  parched. 

Potatoes,  of  which  there  are  numerous  varieties,  are  also  now 
gathered ; they  grow  in  perfection,  though  much  smaller  than  their  de- 
scendants in  the  United  States. 


2 


WOOL- GROWING. 


The  little  estates — chacras — are  owned  by  descendants  of  Spaniards, 
Indians,  or  Mestizos,  the  latter  a cross  between  the  two  former. 

In  almost  all  cases  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  is  performed  by  the 
aborigines,  at  wages  from  ten  to  twenty  cents  a day. 

As  we  rise  above  the  foliage,  the  mountain  tops  begin  to  look  wild  and 
barren,  with  rocks  and  red  clay  ; below  we  have  a beautiful  view  of  the 
town  of  Tarma,  amidst  its  green  trees  and  pasture  fields.  My  mule,  Rose, 
pants  for  breath ; she  is  so  fat  and  plump  that  the  climbing  troubles  her. 

On  the  mountain-side  is  seated  a fine  looking  Indian,  blowing  a semi- 
circular shaped  trumpet,  made  of  a number  of  cow’s  horns,  stripped  one 
into  the  other,  with  the  joints  sealed  ; he  don’t  seem  to  be  so  particular 
as  to  the  tune,  as  he  does  to  the  distance  he  may  be  heard,  and  he  makes 
the  valley  ring.  Jose  thinks  he  is  trying  to  blow  up  a wedding  with 
a fair  one  among  the  flowers  below.  The  Indians  celebrate  harvest- 
time with  merry-making.  Their  meals  are  cooked  in  the  fields,  where 
their  kitchen  utensils  are  carried.  They  have  music  and  dancing  in  the 
barley  stubble.  It  is  amusing  to  see  these  happy  people  enjoying  them- 
selves in  the  open  air.  As  we  pass,  the  reapers  are  seated  near  the  road, 
in  a barley  field,  at  dinner,  upon  the  ground,  in  rows  one  l^hind  another, 
laughing  and  talking  among  themselves.  When  we  meet  them  they 
are  very  civil,  modest,  and  unassuming  in  manners.  The- men  carry 
enormous  loads  of  bailey  or  wheat  on  their  backs,  while  the  women 
drive  the  loaded  ass,  and  sling  the  children  over  their  own  shoulders. 
Their  horses,  mules,  sheep,  horned  cattle,  pigs,  and  dogs,  are  all  admitted, 
together  with  the  family,  into  the  harvest  field ; while  the  father  reaps, 
and  the  mother  gathers,  the  boys  tend  the  flocks,  and  the  older  girls 
take  care  of  the  babies  and  do  the  cooking,  while  at  the  same  time  they 
spin  woollen  yarn  by  hand,  for  stockings.  One  of  them  offered  a pair 
for  sale  at  twenty-five  cents,  which  were  nearly  long  enough  for  trowsers. 
They  are  always  employed,  go  to  bed  early,  and  rise  beforethe  sun,  as 
their  Incas  taught  them  to  do. 

At  the  top  of  the  mountain,  not  a house  or  tree  was  to  be  seen,  and 
no  sign  of  cultivation.  On  tufts  of  coarse  mountain  grass,  a flock  of 
sheep  were  grazing ; some  of  them  merinos,  and  of  good  size.  Their 
wool  is  sent  to  Lima,  where  it  is  sold,  to  be  exported  around  Cape  Horn, 
to  the  manufacturers  in  the  North. 

To  the  east  is  a snow-peaked  mountain,  and  as  the  moon  rises,  as  if 
from  the  Atlantic  ocean,  we  are  followed  by  a cold  north  wind.  The 
sky  is  clear  and  of  a deep  blue.  On  our  left  we  see  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  Peruvian  road,  used  in  the  times  of  the  Incas.  It  is  said  that 
good  roads  are  marks  of  civilization ; could  my  mule,  Rose,  give  her 


SILENCE  OF  THE  ANDES. 


3 


opinion,  she  would  certainly  decide  in  favor  of  the  Inca  road,  in  pre- 
ference to  those  found  in  Peru  at  the  present  ti/ne.  These  remains  show 
a width  of  thirty  feet  of  rock  pavement,  with  well  placed  curbstones 
on  each  side.  Where  the  road  has  considerable  inclination,  rows  of 
stone  are  placed  across,  higher  than  the  general  level  of  the  pavement, 
so  that  it  appears  like  a stair-way  on  the  side  of  a hill.  That  it  was 
not  a coach  road  is  no  argument  against  it ; it  was  before  the  horse,  the 
ass,  or  the  cow  were  introduced  into  South  America  from  Europe.  It 
was  constructed  for  the  Indian  and  his  llama,  the  surest  of  the  sure-footed, 
and,  therefore,  the  improvement  speaks  well  for  the  civilization  of  those 
times  of  which  we  have  but  a traditionary* record. 

Passing  over  a plain  on  the  mountain  top,  there  was  a cistern  by  the 
side  of  our  path,  where  water  is  caught  during  the  rainy  season  to  sup- 
ply the  thirsty  in  the  dry.  The  rainy  season  commences  here  about  the 
middle  of  September — sometimes  later — and  lasts  six  months.  The 
remainder  of  the  year  is  dry. 

Night  had  overtaken  us  where  not  a living  thing  was  to  be  seen, 
except  a black  eagle,  returning  to  its  roosting-place  under  overhanging 
rocks,  on  the  west  side  of  a lofty  peak.  Our  little  tent  was  pitched ; 
the  baggage  piled  up  and  covered  at  the  door ; the  mules  let  free  for 
the  night  to  feed  upon  the  mountain  grass  around  us.  A fire  was 
kindled,  and  water  from  a small  spring  heated,  and  tea  was  made.  Jose 
produced  bread  and  cheese  from  his  saddle-wallets  ; placed  them  upon 
a clean  cloth  over  a trunk  ; looking  into  the  tent,  he  says,  very  slowly, 
“ S trior  ! La  liora  de  cenar ,”  (Sir,  it  is  the  supper  hour.)  Both  men 
and  beasts  seem  tired;  we  have  ascended  all  day.  The  first  day’s  travel 
is  always  the  most  harassing.  Our  arriero,  Francisco,  a mestizo,  is  a 
small,  slim  built  man,  with  respectful  manners ; he  and  his  little  son 
Ignacio  keep  watch  by  turns  over  the  mules.  The  little  boy  is  out 
while  his  father  gets  supper.  The  night  was  clear  and  cold  ; the  moon 
shining  brightly.  The  world  is  not  so  silent  in  the  middle  of  the  ocean. 
I do  not  think  I heard  anything ; I almost  listened  to  hear  the  globe 
turn  upon  its  axis.  Long  after  the  people  were  asleep,  I heard  little 
Ignacio  singing  to  himself,  wrapped  up  in  his  homespun  poncho,  as 
he  follows  the  mules. 

At  daylight  in  the  morning  we  found  heavy  frosts  and  ice  about  us, 
with  thermometer  24°,  and  wet  bulb  30°.  The  mules  were  loaded  ; 
breakfast  over;  observations  made;  and  we  off,  soon  after  sunrise.  This 
is  the  way  to  travel  at  an  elevation  where  we  find  no  inhabitants. 

The  mountains  are  becoming  more  rounding,  aud  covered  with  a fine 
sort  of  grass.  Shepherdesses  are  following  thousands  of  sheep  and  lambs. 


4 


THRESHING  EARLE T. 


The  girls  spin  wool  and  chat  together,  while  the  dogs  follow  lazily  after. 
If  we  pass  close  to  the  flpck,  and  the  sheep  run  back,  these  dogs  make 
a furious  attack  upon  us,  keeping  between  us  and  the  flock.  The  tem- 
perature of  a spring  of  excellent  water  near  the  path  was  48°.  To  the 
southeast  snow  peaks  stand  up  in  full  view.  The  day  is  warm  and 
pleasant.  Here  comes  a cheerful  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  on 
horseback.  As  we  pass  each  other,  the  gentlemen  take  off  their  hats, 
and  the  ladies  look  prettily  under  their  white  straw  ones.  Their  figures 
show  to  advantage  in  riding-dresses,  and  they  manage  and  set  their 
horses  well.  The  cool  mountain  air  gives  them  a fresh  color,  which 
contrasts  well  with  gazelle-eyed  beauty  and  long  black  hair.  I thought 
their  dresses  rather  short,  but  a sight  of  the  foot  of  one  of  them,  small 
as  it  was,  reminds  one  there  is  proof  positive  against  the  propriety  of  a 
man’s  travelling  through  this  world  alone. 

Now  we  meet  the  market  Indian  driving  asses  loaded  with  potatoes, 
corn,  and  saddles  of  mutton,  to  Tarma.  I wanted  some  mutton  for  the 
party,  but  Jose  was  positively  refused  by  an  old  woman,  who  got  out  of 
his  way  by  twisting  the  tail  of  her  donkey,  who  was  disposed  to  come  to 
a stand  and  be  relieved  of  his  load.  I was  told  Indians  scarcely  ever  sell 
except  after  they  arrive  in  the  plaza.  I can  account  for  it  by  the  wo- 
man’s w7 anting  to  go  to  town,  for  Jose  offered  her  more  than  the  market 
price. 

At  the  end  of  a thickly  populated  valley,  which  stretches  off  to  the 
southeast,  we  halted  at  an  Indian  hut  for  dinner.  The  wife  was  at 
home  with  her  children — fine,  healthy-looking  little  ones.  Boiled  mut- 
ton, potatoes,  and  eggs,  with  good  wheat  bread,  were  placed  upon  the 
ground  at  the  door.  The  children  and  dogs  formed  an  outside  circle 
around  us.  After  dinner  the  woman  gave  me  an  orange,  which  she 
said  came  from  the  woods,  pointing  to  the  Andes,  to  the  east  of  us. 
Some  of  these  Indians  cross  the  range  of  mountains,  and  garden  on  the 
eastern  slopes  for  the  markets,  on  these  table  lands — Puna — as  the 
Spaniards  call  the  elevated  flats. 

The  husband  was  threshing  barley  with  his  neighbors.  The  grain  is 
separated  from  the  straw  by  the  tramping  of  oxen  and  horses.  Over 
the  surface  of  this  level  valley  there  are  numbers  of  such  threshing  parties. 
The  grain  is  cleared  from  the  chaff  by  being  poured  from  the  top  of  a 
man’s  head  on  a windy  day.  Many  of  them  suffer  with  inflamed  eyes, 
and  even  lose  them  sometimes  by  a shift  of  wind,  which  blows  the  barley 
beards  into  the  eyes. 

Black  cattle  are  numerous  here,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains ; so 
are  white  churches,  which  stand  in  the  midst  of  a thick  population  of 


JUAJA. 


5 


Indians.  We  met  a number  of  tax-gatherers,  going  among  the  thresh- 
ei-s,  with  silver-headed  canes,  receiving  a measure  of  grain  instead  of 
contribution-money.  They  are  old  Indians,  #ry  well  dressed,  with  a 
respectable,  quaker-like  air  about  them  ; broad-brimmed  hats  and  stand- 
ing collars.  It  is  an  active  time  also  with  the  priests,  who  go  abroad 
among  the  farmers  for  tithes.  The  valley  is  all  activity,  and  merry  are 
the  people.  Women  are  visiting  about  from  place  to  place,  astride  of 
plump  little  jackasses.  This  is  a plentiful  season. 

When  the  crops  fail  on  these  table  lands,  the  suffering  among  the 
Indians  is  very  great.  Seeding  time  is  in  September,  just  before  the 
rains  commence.  If  there  are  hard  frosts  in  February,  the  chances  are 
that  a famine  follows. 

Crossing  a small  ridge  on  the  east,  we  came  in  full  view  of  the  great 
valley  of  Juaja,  stretching  away  south.  The  snowy  peaks  are  repre- 
sented in  a sketch  from  our  camp  near  the  town. 

Jose’s  wife  and  children  came  to  the  tent,  brought  us  supper,  and 
lucerne  for  our  mules.  One  of  the  sons,  a fine-looking  boy  of  eighteen, 
volunteered  to  go  with  me.  Jose  desired  that  I should  let  him  go, 
and  I had  no  objection ; but  when  his  member  came  to  ask  me  if  I was 
not  satisfied  to  take  her  husband  without  taking  her  son  and  only  pro- 
tector, I referred  Jose  and  her  son  to  her.  She  settled  the  case  her 
own  way,  and  gave  me  her  blessing. 

Juaja  * a population  of  about  2,500  inhabitants.  I say  about , 
because  there  is  no  such  thing  as  a census  known  at  this  elevation. 
The  houses  are  built  one  story,  of  adobe  walls,  or  of  unburnt  bricks, 
and  tile  roofs.  The  streets  are  well  paved,  and  run  at  right  angles  with 
each  other.  A pretty  little  white-washed  church  stands  upon  the  plaza, 
where  the  women  sell  their  marketing  and  say  their  prayers.  The 
Indians  come  to  market  and  church  at  the  same  time ; Sunday  morning 
is  the  great  market  day.  A drove  of  horses  are  most  miserable-looking 
little  rats;  the  horses  of  the  lowlands  and  coasts  are  much  their 
superiors. 

Men  live  to  a good  old  age  in  this  climate ; TO,  80,  and  90  years  are 
common;  some  have  arrived  at  120  and  130.  I am  under  the  impres- 
sion that  the  Indians  live  longest.  Mestizo  and  Spanish  Creole  girls 
have  been  known  to  bear  children  at  8 and  9 years  of  age. 

The  Spanish  Creole  population  is  small ; they  are  generally  shop- 
keepers, the  only  dealers  in  foreign  goods,  which  are  retailed  to  the 
Indians  at  enormous  profits.  They  travel  to  Lima  and  purchase  goods, 
which  they  use  as  an  inducement  to  the  Indians  to  work  the  silver 
mines,  existing  three  leagues  to  the  east  of  Juaja,  in  the  Andes  range, 


6 


DISPLACEMENT  OF  EARTH. 


but  which  at  present  are  little  worked.  The  Indians’ prefer  blue,  in 
their  dresses,  to  any  other  color,  and  consume  considerable  quantities  of 
indigo.  The  demand  fo^  wax  in  the  churches  is  of  some  account. 
Eggs  and  wool  are  the  principal  exports  to  Lima,  and  are  carried  over 
the  Cordilleras  on  the  backs  of  jackasses.  Travellers  do  not  know  why 
they  meet  with  so  many  bad  eggs  at  breakfast  in  Lima.  It  is  cus- 
tomary to  pass  them  round  the  country  as  current  money  or  coin  for 
some  time  before  they  are  sent  to  the  coast  to  be  eaten.  Mrs.  Jose  says, 
three  eggs  will  buy  her  a glass  of  brandy,  or  sixpence  worth  of  anything 
in  market.  The  carrying  trade  is  superintended  by  the  Indians. 

The  mestizos  are  shoemakers,  blacksmiths,  and  saddlers.  They  seem 
fond  of  music  and  dancing,  and  assume  the  pride  of  a superior,  and  lord 
it  over  the  honest  Indian. 

Our  road  lies  through  a rich  valley,  often  four  miles  wide,  and  level 
as  a floor.  The  mountains  on  both  sides  are  dry  and  unproductive,  ex- 
cept in  the  ravines.  The  half-yearly  displacement  of  earth  is  very  great ; 
during  the  rainy  season  the  mountain  torrents  come  down  from  the 
summit  loaded  with  soil.  The  decrease  in  the  size  of  the  mountains 
from  the  time  of  their  creation  to  the  present  day,  and  the  filling  up  of 
this  basin,  naturally  leads  one  to  wonder,  whether  the  present  valley  was 
not  once  a lake.  The  Juaja  river,  which  takes  its  rise  in  Lake  Chinchay- 
cocha  to  the  north  of  Tarma,  flows  sluggishly  and  serpent-like  through 
the  whole  length  of  the  valley,  and  creeping  through  the  Ande^Puddenly 
rushes  off  at  a rapid  rate,  as  though  sensible  of  its  long  journey,  by  the 
Ucayali  and  Amazon,  to  the  Atlantic  ocean.  The  bed  of  the  river  is  half 
a mile  wide,  and  in  the  wet  season  is  probably  eighteen  feet  deep. 
There  is  very  little  water  in  it  now.  The  banks  break  down  perpendi- 
cularly. The  growth  of  small  trees  and  flowers  gives  a fresh  appearance 
to  the  valley^  but  the  sun  is  very  warm  as  we  pace  along  the  dusty  road. 
The  apple  trees  are  about  the  size  of  raspberry  bushes. 

There  are  few  varieties  of  birds  in  the  valley ; some  pigeons  and  doves 
keep  the  table  pretty  well  supplied.  Little  Ignacio  takes  great  interest 
in  the  sport,  and  his  sharp  eyes  are  constantly  on  the  look-out  for  a shot. 
By'the  river  snipe  are  found ; among  the  flowers,  the  humming  bird  is 
seen  and  heard. 

The  road  crosses  a number  of  dry  beds,  streams  of  considerable  size 
in  the  rainy  season.  There  is  only  water  enough,  at  present,  for  the 
washwomen,  whose  soap  suds  spoil  the  water  for  our  beasts.  We  pass 
through  the  village  of  San  Lorenzo,  and  the  small  town  of  Concepcion. 
A death-like  silence  pervades  these  places ; the  people  are  in  the  fields, 
except  some  creoles,  seated  among  the  flowers  in  their  neat  little  court 


VIEW  TO  THE  EAST  OF  JUAJA, 


AFFECTION  OF  ANIMALS. 


7 


yards.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  the  houses  small.  All  the  towns 
of  the  Puna  are  built  pretty  much  after  the  same  fashion,  and  of  the 
same  material ; the  only  difference  in  their  outward  appearance  being 
produced  by  the  cultivation  of  foliage  and  flowers,  where  the  soil  and 
climate  permit.  When  this  is  not  the  case,  the  town  presents  a stupid, 
uninteresting  aspect.  Children,  dogs,  and  pigs,  earthen  pots,  and  beds 
of  straw,  surround  a smoking  fire  on  the  ground  floor  of  a one-roomed 
house.  The  smoke  escapes  through  the  door-way;  the  only  opening  for 
light  or  a change  of  air.  During  storms,  or  at  night,  the  door  is  closed. 
One  peep  inside  satisfies  the  North  American  he  can  find  no  rest  there. 
But  here,  in  the  valley,  the  cooking  is  done  under  the  trees,  and  the 
inmates  of  the  house  wander  out  in  the  shade.  We  have  often  noticed 
expressions  of  friendship  between  children  and  dogs ; the  latter  shows 
his  pleasure  by  wagging  its  tail,  while  the  smiling  child  pulls  his  ears. 
The  pig  is  the  most  restless  creature  at  this  height.  While  by  himself, 
he  is  seen  tossing  up  the  bottom  of  the  valley  ; when  he  sees  the  child 
and  dog  together,  he  gives  a corkscrew  motion  to  his  tail,  jumps  and 
swings  his  body  about  with  an  inviting  grunt  to  play.  Before  long  he 
is  laying  on  his  side,  with  the  child  on  top  of  him,  while  the  dog  is 
pawing  and  snapping  at  that  laughable  twist  of  the  tail.  The  affection 
the  different  species  of  animals  have,  in  these  associations,  is  remarkable. 
The  dog  in  any  other  place  will  sometimes  kill  and  eat  the  sheep;  here, 
he  protecte  it  by  night  and  by  day.  The  pig  forms  an  attachment  to 
the  jackass,  who  leaves  it,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  for  the  female  of 
its  own  kind.  The  ram  becomes  intimate  with  a horse  or  a bull,  and  it 
is  with  difficulty  they  can  be  separated.  The  lamb  follows  the  Indian 
girl  in  direct  disobedience  of  its  mother’s  call.  Domestic  cats  are  few. 
They  cannot  live  on  high  elevations. 

There  is  r.o  part  of  Peru  which  is  more  densely  populated  than  the 
valley  of  Juaja.  There,  close  under  the  mountains,  on  the  east  side 
stands  the  town  of  Ocopa,  with  its  convents  and  schools.  From  that 
place,  missionaries  have  branched  off  in  different  directions  to  the  forests 
in  the  east,  at  great  risk  of  life  and  loss  of  all  its  comforts,  to  teach  the 
savage  red  man  how  to  change  his  manners,  customs,  and  belief.  Some 
have  succeeded,  others  have  failed,  and  were  murdered  or  driven  back 
by  the  battle-axe;  their  settlements  destroyed  by  fire,  and  years  of  labor 
lost ; yet  some  never  tire ! 

Ignacio  carries  our  tent  pole  across  the  pummel  of  his  saddle.  His 
thirsty  mule  ran  between  two  others,  loaded  with  baggage.  The  boy 
was  swept  off  and  dropped  over  the  creature’s  heels  in  the  middle  of  the 
stream.  He  regained  his  saddle  in  a short  time.  His  father  laughed 
at  him,  and  took  the  pole  himself. 


8 


ANCIENT  CITT. 


In  the  centre  of  the  valley  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  city ; the 
ruins  ot  stone  walls  were  12  feet  high,  and  from  1 to  foot  thick. 
Those  of  the  present  day  are  generally  adobe,  from  3 to  4 feet  thick. 
Some  of  the  buildings  have  been  round ; others  oblong,  but  generally 
square,  12  by  18  feet.  The  round  ones  are  largest  and  best  situated. 
The  streets  very  irregular  and  narrow  ; no  appearance  of  plaza,  or  church. 
The  ruins  extend  half  a mile  north  and  south,  and  200  yards  east  and 
west,  on  a knoll,  which  may  have  been  an  island  before  the  Inca  road 
was  built,  now  hedged  in  on  both  sides  with  cactus.  As  the  land  about 
this  av.cient  city  is  now  cultivated  as  a corn-field,  no  remains  of  curious 
things  could  be  found.  The  mason-work  is  very  rough,  but  remains  of 
mortar  are  there.  How  the  houses  were  roofed  is  doubtful,  but  by  the 
slanting  down  on  the  inner  sides  of  the  stones  of  those  houses  which 
were  round,  the  mason  work  may  have  been  carried  up  till  it  met  at 
a point,  which  would  give  the  house  a sugar-loaf  shape.  Besides  door- 
ways, there  were  window  openings. 

Droves  of  jackasses  pass,  loaded  with  small  raw-hide  bags  filled  with 
quicksilver  from  the  mines  of  Huancavelica,  on  their  way  to  the  silver 
mines  of  Cerro  de  Pasco. 

*On  Saturday  evening,  July  12,  1851,  we  encamped  on  the  south  side 
of  the  town  of  Huancayo,  and  remained  till  Monday  morning,  giving 
the  party  their  usual  day  of  fiest.  Upon  entering  this  town  we  saw  the 
first  signs  of  improvement  in  the  construction  of  a stone  bi^ge ; the 
mason  work  compares  well  with  that  of  more  flourishing  places.  The 
men  and  cows  of  this  place  are  larger  than  any  we  have  seen.  The 
people  are  very  polite.  The  Indians  oblige  us  with  all  we  require,  and 
seem  interested  in  our  industry.  Jose  asks  permission'  to  go  to  church, 
and  for  money  to  buy  shoes.  The  singing  of  frogs  reminds  us  of  home. 
Some  of  the  trees  are  much  larger  than  those  hitherto  passed. 

Marks  of  small-pox  are  seen  among  the  people ; but  there  are  no 
chills  and  fevers  here.  Some  of  the  women  have  dreadful  swellings  in 
their  necks,  called  by  them  “ cota ,”  or  goitre,  caused  by  drinking  bad 
water,  or  snow-water  deprived  of  salts.  But  why  this  disease  is  generally 
confined  to  the  women  I cannot  say,  unless  the  men  never  drink  water. 
It  was  very  certain,  from  the  noise  after  church,  that  they  find  something 
stronger.  I do  not  think  the  people  are  generally  dissipated,  except  on 
Sunday  afternoons,  when  both  sexes  seem  disposed  to  frolic.  During 
the  week  they  are  otherwise  employed. 

Leaving  the  Juaja  valley,  we  passed  through  a rough,  hilly  country. 
In  barley  stubbles  ewes  are  giving  lambs. 

A woman  planting  beans  after  the  plough,  has  her  baby  slung  over 


ENCAMPED  NEAR  H U A N CAYO  , V A LLEY  OF  JUAJA.  Peru. 


ISCUCHACA. 


9 


her  shoulders ; by  the  noise  it  made,  I doubt  its  partiality  to  beans.  The 
plough  is  drawn  by  oxen,  yoked  by  the  horns.  It  is  made  of  two  pieces 
of  wood — the  handle  and  coulter  are  of  one  piece,  into  which  is  jointed, 
the  beam ; the  coulter  is  shod  with  a square  plate  of  iroft,  without  a 
shear,  so  that  the  furrow  is  made  by  throwing  the  soil  on  both  sides, 
lfte  the  North  Carolina  bull-tongue.  On  a hill  some  Indians  are  plant- 
ing, while  others  are  carrying  up  water  in  large  jars  from  a stream  for 
the  purpose  of  irrigating  the  vegetables  peeping  out  of  the  ground. 

Some  of  the  Indians  on  the  road  look  very  sad  after  their  Sunday  frolic. 
A man  on  horseback,  with  his  wife  astride  behind  him,  and  her  baby 
slung  to  her  back,  looked  quite  as  uncomfortable  as  his  miserable  little 
horse.  The  road  is  marked  with  stones  at  every  league  of  three  miles: 
some  of  the  measures  must  have  been  made  on  a Monday  morning  after 
a frolic.  The  small  towns  of  Guayoc&chi  and  Nahuinpacyo  are  inhab- 
ited solely  by  Indians,  and  have  a ruinous  appearance.  The  streets  are 
pasture-grounds,  and  decayed  old  houses  serve  as  roosting-places  for 
buzzards.  We  had  thunder,  rain,  and  hail ; the  hail-stones  as  large  as 
peas,  and  soft,  like  snow-balls.  Lightning  flashed  all  around  us  in  the 
valley,  while  the  black  clouds  brought  up  by  the  southeast  winds  were 
hurried  back  by  a heavy  northwest  squall.  Thermometer  45°. 

The  Indians  gather  the  dung  of  animals  for  fuel.  Wood  is  too  scarce 
to  burn  here.  The  green  waters  of  the  Juaja  rush  down  through  deep 
ravines;  its  power  is  used  for  a flour  mill.  The  grain  is  mashed.  The 
branches  of  a few  large  cedar  trees  give  shade  to  the  door  of  the  polite 
old  mestizo  miller.  Descending  the  river,  we  came  to  a beautiful  white- 
washed new  stone  bridge,  with  one  arch,  30  feet  above  the  stream. 
Paying  a toll  of  one  shilling  per  mule,  we  crossed  the  Juaja  into  the 
small  town  of  Iscuchaca.  Near  the  river  there  are  patches  of  lucerne, 
and  peach  trees  in  blossom.  A native  of  Copenhagen,  in  Denmark, 
came  forward  and  invited  us  to  his  house.  The  people  had  told  him 
his  countrymen  had  arrived.  lie  was  silversmith  and  apothecary,  but 
had  been  employed  by  the  Peruvian  government  to  construct  this  beau- 
tiful stone  bridge,  which  he  had  finished,  and  married  the  first  pretty 
girl  on  the  street  leading  therefrom,  the  daughter  of  a retired  officer  of 
the  Peruvian  army.  The  bridge  across  this  stream  was  formerly  built 
of  wood.  During  a revolution,  one  of  the  parties  set  it  on  fire  to  the 
stone  foundation.  The  Copenhagen  man  gathered  a quantity  of  this 
stone,  made  a fire  of  it  in  his  forge,  and  heated  a piece  of  iron  red  hot. 
lie  called  it  brown  slate  coal ; rather  hard ; not  good  for  blacksmith’s 
work ; but  the  same  is  used  for  running  an  engine  at  the  mines  of 
Castro-Virreyna,  in  which  he  is  interested.  There  are  thermal  springs 


10 


GUAXDO. 


near ; and  specimens  of  magnetic  iron  were  collected  from  a mountain 
1^-  league  to  the  northeast  of  the  town.  The  “Matico”  bush  is  found 
here.  Many  stories  are  told  of  the  effects  of  this  medicinal  plant,  which 
has  been  in*  use  as  a tea  among  the  Indians,  and  as  a poultice  for 
wounds. 

Iscuchaca  is  pleasantly ‘situated  amidst  wild  mountains,  which  seenf 
to  lock  it  up.  The  Juaja  winds  its  way  towards  the  Atlantic,  while  we 
climb  a steep  towards  the  Pacific. 

The  water  of  a rapid  stream  is  somewThat  salt,  and  its  temperature 
50°,  while  the  air  was  65°.  Many  fine  mules  are  dashing  down  the 
narrow  road.  The  drover  tells  me  he  is  from  I$a,  bound  to  the  Cerro 
Pasco  mines,  w'here  he  trades  mules  for  silver.  19a  is  situated  inland 
from  Pisco,  on  the  coast. 

Among  the  mountains,  at  the  top  of  a dangerous  and  precipitate 
pass,  there  is  a wooden  cross,  erected  by  the  people  in  the  neighborhood. 
Travellers  universally  take  off  their  hats  as  they  pass,  praying  for  a safe 
passage,  or  feeling  thankful  for  one.  The  women  often  decorate  these 
emblems  with  wreaths  of  flowers,  cross  themselves  devoutly,  and  pass 
on.  Jose  begged  me  to  hang  the  mountain  barometer  to  one  arm  of 
the  cross.  While  I took  the  reading  of  it,  he  looked  on  in  great  admi- 
ration. • 

The  small  Indian  town  of  Guando  is  the  first  we  have  seen  built  of 
stone.  It  is  situated  high  up  on  the  mountains,  and  presents  a most 
dilapidated  appearance.  On  one  side  of  a narrow  street,  little  school 
boys  were  seated,  saying  their  lessons  to  the  teachers,  who  were  on 
the  opposite  side.  As  we  passed  between  them,  the  boys  all  rose  and 
bowed  politely.  Among  the  inhabitants  were  an  unusual  number  of 
elderly  women.  The  temptation  was  great  to  ask  their  ages ; but  as 
some  dislike  questions  of  that  sort,  I might  make  an  enemy  without 
getting  a fact.  An  Indian  hut  in  the  valley  sketches  the  inhabitants. 
Jose  appears  between  the  man  and  his  wife,  telling  them,  in  the 
Quichua  language,  that  I live  far  off  to  the  north,  and  want  to  show 
the  people  there  what  kind  of  people  are  here.  The  old  Indian  chews 
an  extra  quantity  of  coca  leaf.  The  woman  looks  astonished,  and  the 
child  is  disgusted,  though  all  stand  still  as  they  are  told.  The  man  was 
employed  threshing  barley  with  a long  pole.  The  woman  was  cooking, 
and  the  child  playing  with  the  dog,  when  we  arrived.  The  nights  are 
very  cold,  the  days  warm  and  pleasant.  To  a church  and  few  houses 
near  the  road  has  been  given  the  name  of  Acobambilla.  The  Indians 
around  answer  the  bells  to  prayers. 

We  ascend  the  top  of  the  mountain  and  see  perpetual  snow  in  all 


Lilli  of  P S Duval  fv  Co  Philai  3 


' 


NEW  WORLD  CAMELS. 


11 


directions,  overhung  with  heavy,  black,  cumulus  clouds,  above  which 
the  cirrus  shoot  upwards ; in  the  zenith  the  sky  is  clear  and  of  the 
deepest  blue.  Spring  water  44°  ; air  45°. 

Richards  shot  at  four  wild  geese  with  his  carbine  and  single  ball; 
two  of  the  geese  flew  off,  leaving  the  others  very  much  frightened.  The 
geese  flew  across  a small  snow-water  lake.  These  birds  are  white,  the 
ends  of  wing  and  tail  being  black,  with  red  bills  and  legs,  as  large  as  the 
domestic  goose,  though  not  so  tender.-  Tadpoles,  but  no  fish,  were  to  be 
seen.  Wild  ducks  kept  at  a distance.  The  llama  is  pasturing  and 
giving  birth  to  its  young  close  under  the  perpetual  snow  line.  The  alpaca 
and  huanacos — species  of  the  llama — are  in  numbers  also.  Llamas 
occupy  the  useful  position  among  the  aboriginal  race  of  South  America, 
that  the  camel  does  to  the  wandering  man  in  Arabia.  These  animals 
carry  loads  of  one  hundred  pounds,  over  roads  too  dangerous  for  the 
mule  or  the  ass,  and  climb  mountains  difficult  for  man.  They  are  prin- 
cipally used  for  conveying  silver  from  the  mines.  The  Indians  are  very 
fond  of  them  ; though  they  drive  them  with  a whip,  it  is  seldom  used  ; 
when  one  lags  behind  or  lies  down  on  the  road,  the  Indian  talks  to  it, 
and  persuades  it  to  forget  its  fatigues  and  get  up  again.  They  hang 
little  bells  about  their  graceful  necks,  and  decorate  the  tips  of  their  ears 
with  bits  of  colored  ribbon.  Their  disposition,  like  those  of  their  mas- 
ters, are  gentle  and  inoffensive,  except  when  too  much  hurried  ; then 
they  cast,  saliva  at  the  Indians,  or  at  each  other ; this  is  their  only  of- 
fence ; it  is  thought  to  be  poisonous.  They  require  very  little  food, 
which  they  pick  up  on  the  mountains,  and  are  much  more  temperate 
than  their  drivers ; they  require  very  little  water.  Their  loads  are  taken 
off  at  mid-day,  so  that  they  may  feed.  I am  told  that  they  never  eat 
at  night.  They  seek  the  cold  regions  of  the  Andes;  nature  has  pro- 
vided them  with  a warm  fleece  of  wool,  and  they  need  no  shelter. 
Though  they  are  feeble  animals,  their  usual  daily  travel  is  about  15  miles ; 
but  after  three  or  four  days  journey,  they  must  have  rest  or  they  perish  on 
the  road.  The  motion  of  the  head  and  neck  as  they  cross  the  mountain 
crags  may  be  likened  to  that  of  the  swan,  as  it  floats  over  smooth  water. 
The  wool  makes  good  coarse  cloth,  of  various  colors,  seldom  all  of  one 
color.  The  huanaco  is  known  by  its  being  rather  larger  than  the 
llama;  it  is  said  to  be  difficult  to  train,  even  if  taken  young.  It  never 
gives  up  its  ideas  of  liberty,  and  will  regain  its  companions  whenever  an 
opportunity  admits. 

The  alpaca  is  the  smallest,  with  the  finest  long  wool ; its  body  resembles 
the  sheep,  with  the  head  and  neck  of  the  llama.  Jose  tells  me  they  are 


12 


HUANCAVELICA. 


good  to  eat,  but  like  the  others  the  meat  is  not  very  palatable.  The 
alpaca  wool  is  well  known  in  the  markets  ; the  Indians  make  clothing 
of  it,  and  trade  it  off  on  the  coast.  In  this  department,  and  further 
south,  great  numbers  of  these  new  world  camels  are  raised.  It  has  been 
remarked  that  they  seek  the  south  side  of  the  mountains;  probably 
there  is  less  evaporation  than  on  the  north  side,  and  the  pasture  is  more 
fresh  and  inviting.  Barley  is  generally  raised  on  the  north  side  of  the 
mountain. 

After  a long  and  tiresome  descent  we  halted  in  the  main  plaza  of  the 
town  of  Huancavelica,  in  front  of  a small  shop  on  the  corner.  Draw- 
ing out  a letter  of  introduction  to  the  owner  of  the  house,  given  to  me 
by  his  friend,  my  Copenhagen  “ countryman,”  I handed  it  to  a very 
pretty  young  woman,  seated  in  the  doorway,  sewing.  She  invited  me  in, 
and  I followed  to  the  bed-room  of  her  husband,  who  was  napping. 
There  were  so  many  female  dresses  hanging  around  I was  obliged  to  be 
seated  on  the  bed.  The  husband  shook  hands,  rubbed  his  eyes,  gaped, 
and  then  laughed.  He  said  he  was  very  glad  to  see  me,  that  everything 
in  the  house  was  mine.  Our  baggage  was  put  into  a room,  and  prepa- 
rations at  once  made  for  dinner.  While  I was  resting,  an  officer,  with  a 
gold-laced  cap,  gray  trowsers,  and  a half-buttoned  military  jacket,  came 
in,  and  inquired  from  whence  I came,  and  as  he  was  a lieutenant  of 
police,  he  would  thank  me  to  show  him  my  passport.  In  return  I in- 
quired, whether,  in  his  opinion,  the  world  was  not  sufficiently  civilized 
to  permit  people  to  pass  without  such  documents.  It  is  very  certain 
the  lieutenant  never  had  such  a question  put  to  him  before.  I told  him 
to  call  when  my  baggage  was  unpacked,  but  I never  saw  him  again, 

though  I heard  that  Don had  said,  “North  Americans  required 

different  treatment  from  those  of  some  other  parts  of  the  world ; they 
did  not  know  what  passports  meant,  notwithstanding  they  were  a very 
intelligent  people  1” 

Don keeps  a gambling  house,  where  hot  coffee  and  ice  cream 

may  be  had  by  applying  at  the  shop,  attended  by  his  pretty  little  wife. 
All  the  ladies  in  town  visit  in  the  evening  to  refresh  themselves  after 
promenade,  while  the  Spanish  Creoles  spend  their  time  at  a game  called 
“ Monte,”  until  day-light  in  the  morning.  This  is  a hotel,  so  far  as 
eating  and  drinking  goes,  and  the  only  house  of  the  kind  in  the  town 
kept  by  a Spaniard.  The  house  was  established  after  the  marriage  of 
the  young  couple,  and  is  thought  a good  business,  though  the  bride  may 
be  disgusted  with  her  laborious  life,  even  amidst  so  much  ice  cream, 
during  the  honey-moon. 

The  town  of  Huancavelica  has  a population  of  about  8,000,  and  is 


ALPACAS  ON  THE  CORDILLERAS  NEAR  HUANCAVEUCA  Peru. 


QUICKSILVER  MINES. 


13 


situated  in  a deep  ravine,  amidst  a cluster  of  lofty  peats.  It  is  the 
capital  of  tine  department,  and  was  named  by  the  Incas.  The  ravine 
runs  east  and  west,  with  an  average  width  of  one  mile.  A small  stream 
flows  through  it  to  the  east.  Thermal  springs,  of  82°  Fahrenheit,  found 
in  the  vicinity.  The  town  is  divided  into  two  paiishes ; counts  six 
churches,  a hospital,  and  college  for  young  men,  in  which  physics, 
chemistry,  and  mineralogy  are  taught.  The  plaza  is  adorned  with  a 
fountain  of  stone.  A cathedral  stands  by  the  side  of  the  mountain  of 
Cinnebar,  which  contains  the  celebrated  quicksilver  mine  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara. Clipibing  up  this  mountain,  we  came  to  a door-wTay  15  feet  high 
and  12  wide,  carved  in  the  sand-stone.  The  entrance  on  the  southwest 
side  of  the  peak  was  like  a railroad  tunnel.  The  eternal  glaciers  are  at 
this  door-way.  Icicles  hung  overhead,  and  sheets  of  ice  spread  under 
our  feet.  Sooty-faced,  rough-looking  Indians  trundled  wheelbarrows 
loaded  with  quicksilver  ore.  As  the  administrador,  a tall,  smallpox- 
marked  mestizo,  said  to  me — We  are  all  ready,  sir,  to  escort  you  through 
the  mines  of  Iluancavelica — I felt  as  though  he  was  going  to  say,  to 
be  buried  alive.  We  entered  this  dark  hole,  about  600  feet  below  the 
top  of  the  mountain.  As  we  left  daylight,  I thought  of  home  ; then  I 
heard  a dreadful  crash,  which  the  mestizo  informed  me  was  the  upper 
part  of  the  mine  falling  in.  A hollow  sound  was  followed  by  a splash 
in  the  deep  waters  somewhere  below ; then  came  suddenly  a strong 
smell  of  sulphuret  of  arsenic.  A little  further  on  I saw  a pair  of  eyes 
through  the  darkness.  I called  to  Richards  to  hold  his  torchlight ; we 
were  travelling  east-northeast  by  my  compass ; the  eyes  belonged  to  a 
little  Indian  boy  standing  on  the  side  of  the  mine,  with  a load  of  ore 
on  his  back,  while  we  passed  ; he  had  come  through  a narrow  passage 
called  “Take  off  your  horns,”  on  his  hands  and  knees,  and  had  raised  a 
choking  dust.  After  refreshing  ourselves  at  a spring  of  water  of  50° 
temperature,  we  passed  into  a plaza,  where  the  market  women  sell  to 
those  men  who  seldom  leave  the  mines.  On  one  side  of  this  plaza,  by 
holding  the  torches  over  our  heads,  we  see  a beautiful  bridge,  and  be- 
yond it  a stairway  leading  into  utter  darkness;  on  the  other  side  a 
lake — the  opposite  shore  not  in  sight,  though  the  sound  of  a hammer 
floats  over  its  smooth  water.  As  we  move  along  among  red  brick- 
colored  columns,  which  support  the  immense  weight  overhead,  we  see 
a dim  torch  by  the  side  of  the  workman,  seated  with  his  hammer  and 
chisel,  cutting  away  and  honey  combing  the  Andes.  The  administra- 
dor tells  me  we  are  half  way  through  ; if  I wish  to  climb  up  stairs,  we 
can  get  near  the  peak.  Turn  which  way  we  will,  we  find  a road  to 
travel.  I told  him  to  be  pleased  to  keep  as  near  a level  as  possible.  He 


14 


QUICKSILVER  MINES. 


halted,  and  after  some  words  to  the  Indian  guide,  he  said  he  had  taken 
the  wrong  road,  and  must  go  back  some  distance.  After  bumping  our 
heads,  and  walking  doubled  up  in  a most  tiresome  position,  with  great 
want  of  fresh  air,  we  finally  stood  up  in  the  San  Rosario  church,  which  is 
rotnndo-shaped,  with  a height  of  100  feet  to  the  ceiling.  Over  the 
altar  was  carved,  in  solid  cinnebar,  the  Virgin  Mary,  with  the  Infant  in 
her  arms.  As  the  Indians  pass,  with  hat  in  hand,  they  turn,  and,  kneel- 
ing under  their  heavy  loads  of  ore,  say  a short  prayer,  cross  themselves, 
and  pass  on  by  the  light  always  burning  at  the  altar.  The  laboring 
Indian,  who  seldom  leaves  these  dark  regions,  attends  when  the  church 
bell  calls,  and  offers  up  prayer  for  protection  from  the  dangers  of  the 
mine.  On  a Sunday  evening,  in  this  rotundo,  he  meets  his  country- 
men, who  work  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake ; they  tell  of  seeing 
daylight  at  the  point  of  the  chisel  overhead,  instead  of  driving  it  farther 
towards  the  bowels  of  the  earth. 

After  a walk  of  two  hours  we  came  into  the  fresh  air  on  the  north 
side  of  the  mountain.  The  Cinnebar  is  so  narrowly  separated  by  layers 
of  sandstone,  that  the  peak  may  almost  be  called  a solid  mass  of  quick- 
silver ore.  At  present  there  are  120  Indian  men,  women,  and  boys 
employed  in  extracting  the  metal.  Those  who  cut  out  the  ore  work 
very  much  as  they  please — that  is,  they  cut  without  compass ; this 
makes  it  dangerous  to  those  inside,  the  proper  supports  being  cut  away 
by  the  ignorant  Indian.  The  ore  is  carried  out  at  both  sides  of  the 
peak,  in  bags  of  raw  hide,  slung  over  the  backs  of  the  boys,  and  then 
wheeled  to  the  furnaces  near  by,  where  men  break  it  up  into  bits,  and 
women  make  small  cakes  of  the  dust.  These  cakes  are  laid  in  the 
bottom  of  a large  iron  grate,  sufficiently  open  to  allow  heat  to  pass,  and 
over  them  the  ore  is  filled  in  to  the  depth  of  three  feet.  A fire  is  made 
underneath  of  coarse  mountain  grass;  a strong  draught  carries  the  vapor 
from  the  heated  cinnebar,  through  a retort  of  earthern  pipes,  slipped  one 
into  the  other,  to  a distance  of  five  or  six  feet,  where  it  condenses,  and 
the  quicksilver  lodges  in  the  floor.  After  the  ore  becomes  well  heated, 
which  generally  takes  eight  or  ten  hours,  the  doors  of  the  furnace  are 
closed,  and,  for  three  or  four  hours,  the  distillation  continues.  After 
this  the  quicksilver  is  swept  into  pots,  washed  in  water,  and  dried,  when 
it  is  ready  for  the  market,  and  is  sold  here  at  one  dollar  per  pound.  It 
is  sent  off  in  all  directions  to  the  silver  mines  of  Peru. 

By  the  rude  method  of  mining  and  smelting,  the  loss  of  mercury  is 
great.  The  joints  of  the  earthern  pipes  are  luted  with  clay,  through 
which  the  vapor  escapes  before  it  has  time  to  condense.  It  is  difficult 
to  regulate  the  heat  by  the  dry  mountain  grass,  which  blazes  up  and 


QUICKSILVER  MINES. 


15 


passes  away  in  a moment,  so  that  the  doors  must  he  kept  open,  and  a 
man  constantly  feeding  the  fire. 

The  mine  is  owned  by  the  government,  and  leased  to  a company, 
who  keep  secret  its  annual  yield.  The  laborers’  wages  are  never  more 
than  fifty  cents  a day.  They  are  supplied  by  the  company  with  all 
they  require  from  the  shop — a sort  of  purser’s  store-room — altogether  a 
profitable  business  for  the  company.  It  often  happens  that  when  the 
day  of  reckoning  comes,  the  laborer  is  in  debt  on  the  books  of  his  em- 
ployer ; he  is  then  obliged  to  return  to  the  mine  and  work. 

Cinnebar  is  said  to  be  found  the  distance  of  ten  leagues,  in  all  directions, 
from  Santa  Barbara,  and  that  the  Incas  knew  of  and  made  use  of  it. 
Remains  of  small  ovens,  in  the  shape  of  retorts,  have  been  discovered. 
The  Indians  used  it  to  paint  their  faces. 

The  only  account  found  of  the  annual  yield  of  this  celebrated  mine 
was  from  1570  to  1790  ; during  this  220  years,  Santa  Barbara  produced 
1,040,469  quintals  (100  pounds)  of  quicksilver,  or  an  average  of  47,294 
pounds  per  annum.  The  price  during  this  period  varied  from  fifty  to 
one  hundred  dollars  per  quintal,  according  to  the  tariff  of  prices  fixed  by 
the  Spanish  crown. 

Huancavelica  is  on  the  inland  route  between  Lima  and  Cuzco,  distant 
from  the  former  73  leagues.  This,  although  not  the  shortest  distance 
to  the  coast,  is  yet  the  best  road  at  the  present  day,  leading  to  the  best 
seaport.  Of  this  immense  mass  of  cinnebar,  not  a pound  is  exported. 
England  finds  a market  for  other  quicksilver  in  the  silver  mines  of  Peru  ; 
carried  in  iron  jars  around  Cape  Horn  at  great  expense,  it  is  transported 
on  the  backs  of  mules,  almost  by  the  very  mouth  of  Santa  Barbara.  The 
roads  are  very  narrow  and  rough ; it  would  be  impossible  to  draw  a 
piece  of  artillery7-  over  them  in  their  present  condition  ; a piano  was 
brought  from  Lima  to  Huancavelica,  and  remains  cracked  to  this  time, 
though  the  house  containing  it  is  the  centre  of  gayety  and  attraction ; 
the  owner  expects  the  music  of  “ The  last  rose  of  summer”  by  the  next 
train  of  mules.  Cargoes  arrive  from  Lima  in  ten  days;  mail-boxes,  on 
a mule,  travel  the  distance  in  six  days.  To  15a,  50  leagues ; cargoes 
take  eight  days. 

There  are  no  foreigners  in  Huancavelica.  Creole  families  are  few,  and 
the  Indian  population  very  poor.  Its  vegetable  productions  are  raised 
in  this  cold  ravine ; the  inhabitant?,  generally,  keep  in  doors ; almost 
all  the  Spanish  creoles  have  been  to  Lima  on  visits,  or  educated  there, 
and  possess  a gay,  agreeable  manner,  and  make  the  cold  dreaiy  evenings 
pass  off  pleasantly.  They  have  no  fires  in  their  houses  ; as  a substitute, 
they  play  romping  games,  and  under  the  exercise  keep  comfortable  until 


16 


ROMPIXG  GAMES. 


bed  time.  This  was  decidedly  a merry  way  of  bringing  families  together, 
and  pleasing  to  see  old  folk’s  romping,  like  children,  with  the  young 
people.  On  one  such  occasion,  a corpulent  gentleman  ha<5  his  thumb 
put  out  of  joint ; a pretty  girl  held  the  end  of  it,  while  others  pulled  it 
in  place  again — by  his  coat-tails.  One  of  the  games  is  somewhat  like 
“ hunt  the  slipper.”  All  the  players  stand  up  in  the  middle  of  the  room> 
and  carry  on  to  the  music  of  a guitar,  violin,  or  flute.  The  houses  are 
tolerably  well  furnished  and  carpeted.  The  Indians  act  the  part  of 
servants.  They  are  taken  when  young,  grow  up  with  the  children,  and 
frequently  remain  all  their  lives  in  the  family  ; others  run  away  when 
they  become  of  age,  or  whenever  they  are  dissatisfied.  The  Indian 
girls  are  often  very  much  attached  to  their  employers,  and  make  cooks 
and  house  servants ; remarkably  neat  in  their  dress,  which  is  not  unlike 
the  bloomer  style.  People  wear  thick  doth  here,  even  in  the  house ; 
it  is  unusual  to  see  ladies  without  shawls,  or  gentlemen  without  cloaks 
or  overcoats.  The  only  fuel  known  is  mountain  grass,  and  dried  drop- 
pings of  llama,  like  what  our  hunters  call  “ Buffalo  chips.” 

The  Prefect  of  the  department  was  very  kind  and  attentive.  He  gave 
me  passports  for  all  the  lieutenants  of  police  in  South  Peru,  and  called 
upon  them  as  good  citizens  to  assist  me ; besides,  he  offered  me  private 
letters  of  introduction  to  his  friends  op  my  route.  He  expressed  the 
opinion  that  Mr.  Gibbon  was  probably  going  to  Carabaya,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  ascertaining  whether  the  gold  there  was  not  “ the  other  end  of 
the  California  vein.”  I paid  off  Francisco  and  his  little  son  Ignacio, 
when  they  returned  home.  Here  we  take  regular  post  mules  and  new 
arrieros,  or  mule  drivers.  Jose’s  saddle  wallets  were  replenished  with 

bread  and  cheese.  An  Indian  girl  came  up  in  time  for  Don ’s 

pretty  little  wife  to  purchase  part  of  a lamb  for  us,  and  we  marched  on, 
feeling  quite  an  attachment  to  the  town,  for  though  the  climate  and 
soil  be  inhospitable,  the  kind-hearted  people  are  not. 

Dog-killers  were  rushing  through  the  streets  'with  short  clubs,  and  as  a 
wounded  dog  came  running  for  protection  among  our  baggage  mules, 
the  arriero’s  fat  wife  clung  to  her  own  pet  dog  until  the  killers  were 
out  of  sight.  The  women  generally  accompany  the  arrieros  some  dis- 
tance on  the  road,  carrying  provisions,  which  are  eaten  and  drank  on 
the  road  side  just  before  parting.  Ascending  a rough,  rocky  road, 
over  deeply  washed  ravines,  we  gain  the  smooth  grass  capped  moun- 
tains. Between  peaks  of  perpendicular  strata,  flocks  of  llama  are 
pasturing.  Yonder  is  a lake  of  clear  snow-water,  and  there  stauds  five 
beautiful  vicuna,  looking  intently  at  us.  What  pretty  animals,  and 
how  wild  they  look.  They  come  here  to  pasture  with  their  kinsfolk, 


By  Bieull  L Gibboyi.  13  S IS 


MATR1Z 


DC 


MB  of  P .S.Dwal  &Co.PlwlJ 

HUANCAVELICA.  Peru. 


SAN  ANTONIO 


VICUNAS. 


17 


the  llamas.  “Richards  ride  round  the  mountain;  Jose  go  with  the 
baggage  steadily  along  the  road,  while  I take  up  this  ravine,  and  try  a 
shot.”  We  all  start.  The  male  gives  a whistle,  which  sounds  among 
the  hills  like  the  cry  of  a wild  turkey ; the  four  females  are  off.  He 
stands  still ; as  I near  him,  he  calls  louder,  and  long  before  I get  within 
hall  range,  he  is  away  over  the  mountain  brow.  The  sailor-boy  Richards 
will  never  give  up  the  chase ; he  has  run  his  mule  out  of  breath,  and 
now  he  takes  after  them  on  foot. 

The  vicuna  is  smaller  and  a much  more  neatly-formed  animal  than 
the  llama,  with  a coat  of  fine  curly  wool ; its  color  resembles  that  of 
the  smaller  deer.  In  the  distribution  of  animals,  as  well  as  I can  judge, 
the  vicuna  naturally  seeks  an  atmosphere  just  below  the  llama.  It  is 
very  swift  and  difficult  to  capture.  The  Indians  take  them  by  driving 
them  into  pens.  Now  and  then  a young  one  may  be  found  tamed,  and 
kept  as  a pet  among  the  children ; they  are  never  used  as  beasts  of 
burden.  Fine  cloths  and  valuable  hats  are  manufactured  from  the 
vicuna.  A skin  sells  in  the  market  for  fifty  cents,  and  the  meat  is  better 
than  that  of  the  llama,  though  Jose  expresses  rather  a disgust  at  the 
idea  of  eating  llama  meat. 

Our  course  is  to  the  eastward.  The  snow-capped  mountains  are  in 
sight  to  the  west.  Temperature  of  a spring  48°  ; air,  44°.  Lightning 
flashes  all  around  us ; as  the  wind  whirls  from  northeast  to  southwest, 
rain  and  snow-flakes  become  hail,  half  the  size  of  peas.  Thunder  roars 
and  echoes  through  the  mountains;  the  mules  hang  their  heads,  and 
travel  slowly ; the  thinly-clad  aboriginal  walks  shivering  as  he  drives 
the  train  ahead  ; the  dark,  cumulus  cloud  seems  to  wrap  itself  around  us. 

The  first  house  we  met  was  Molina  post ; the  men  passed  the  night 
with  their  mules  in  a storm,  which  beat  against  our  tent  all  night.  The 
postman,  a Spanish  Creole,  invited  us  into  his  house  ; I saw'  his  wife,  two 
children,  one  Indian  servant,  and  five  dogs,  seated  around  a fire  made 
of  dung,  over  which  the  woman  was  cooking  mutton.  Their  bed  was 
of  barley  straw,  and  a miserable  old  donkey  was  peeping  in  the  door  at 
it;  so  I had  the  tent  pitched.  At  7 in  the  morning  the  thermometer 
was  37°  Fahr.  This  is  a barren  country,  and  seems  to  be  inhabited 
by  the  wilder  animals.  We  chased  a fox  among  the  rocks,  and  shot 
two  viscachas,  which  resemble  the  rabbit  in  size,  color,  and  head,  but 
the  feet  and  tail  are  like  those  of  the  opossum.  The  people  are  very 
fond  of  them.  The  arriero  smiled  when  he  saw  his  supper.  Richards 
cut  one  of  them  open  to  bottle  its  young,  but  we  had  misjudged  its 
appearance.  An  Indian  boy  said  if  the  mules  ate  any  of  the  hair  of 
this  animal  it  would  cause  instant  death.  We  had  no  extra  mules  to 
2 


18 


SILVER  MINES  OF  CASTRO  VIRREYNA. 


prove  the  assertion.  The  fur  is  very  fine  and  valuable ; they  are  run- 
ning in  and  out  of  holes  in  the  ground  or  the  clefts  of  rocks,  to  Dibble 
the  mountain  grass.  The  mountains  are  more  rolling,  and  covered  with 
a thick  coat  of  pasture ; flocks  of  sheep  speckle  the  mountains — black 
and  white — cleanly  washed  by  the  rains.  They  seek  the  atmosphere 
next  below  the  vicuna,  while  the  good-natured  shepherdess  follows  with 
a womanly  regard  for  the  wishes  of  those  she  loves. 

Another  storm  is  coming ; we  hurry  on,  and  arrive  at  the  next  post 
in  the  small  Indian  town  of  Pancara.  The  postman  told  Jose  that  the 
Alcalde  had  come  to  pay  us  a visit.  A respectable  old  Indian,  with  a 
silver-headed  cane,  who  could  not  speak  Spanish,  appeared,  so  Jose  was 
my  interpreter  in  Quichua.  “How  many  people  live  in  this  town, 
Senor  Alcalde?”  Alcalde,  (eating  parched  corn  from  his  waistcoat 
pocket,)  “Don’t  know.”  “Have  you  plenty  to  live  upon  in  this  part  of 
the  country  ?”  Alcalde , (with  the  most  laughably  contented  air,)  “Roast 
corn  and  few  potatoes.  The  people  are  going  away ; will  soon  be  left 
by  myself.”  Alcalde — “Going  to  Cuzco?”  Jose — “Yes;  and  as  we 
have  a long  travel,  we  have  to  feed  our  mules  well.  Will  you  older  us 
barley?”  Alcalde — “I  will  go  now  and  fetch  it.” 

The  town  is  falling  to  decay ; many  houses  deserted,  and  their  roofs 
have  tumbled  in.  Climate  cold  and  unpleasant.  Except  our  kind 
friend,  the  Alcalde,  the  people  look  wretched. 

The  vegetable  productions  of  this  department  are  few,  and  can  only 
be  raised  in  the  deep  valleys,  where  the  dense  atmosphere  interrupts  the 
parching  rays  of  the  sun,  and  they  are  protected  from  the  cold 
mountain  blasts  of  the  night.  No  department  in  Peru  is  more  broken 
and  barren  than  this,  with  a greater  variety  of  climate.  In  our  sight 
are  peaks  of  eternal  snow,  which  run  up  to  sharp  points  of  pure  white, 
standing  in  rows;  the  humble  Indian,  cultivating  his  patch  of  green 
lucerne  in  the  valley,  far  below. 

The  animals  are  mostly  those  native  to  the  country,  and  few  of  them 
tame.  The  horse,  ass,  and  horned  cattle,  are  nruch  smaller  than  those 
on  the  coast,  and  are  little  used.  Birds  are  very  few,  and  seldom  found 
domesticated ; even  the  common  poultry  find  the  climate  uncongenial. 

Fishes  are  rare  and  small;  only  taken,  I believe,  in  the  Juaja  river. 
Of  minerals  and  metals  already  known,  there  are  silver,  quicksilver, 
copper,  lead,  iron,  stone  coal,  and  lime. 

The  silver  mines  of  Castro-Virreyna  have  been  worked  for  many  years. 
They  are  situated  south  of  the  town  of  Huancavelica,  in  the  Cordillera 
range.  They  count  thirty  mines,  of  which,  at  the  present  day,  but 
seven  are  worked.  Stone  coal  is  found  near  by  sufficiently  good  for 


SANDSTONE  PYRAMIDS. 


19 


engine  purposes.  One  steam-engine  made  a voyage  round  Cape  Horn, 
and  arrived  safely  at  these  mines,  where  it  is  said  to  be  doing  a good 
business.  In  all  cases,  the  pieces  must  not  exceed  one  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds  weight,  or  they  come  to  a stand-still  at  the  landing  on 
the  coast.  Two  pieces  are  balanced  on  the  back  of  a mule,  which 
carries  the  heavy  loads,  never  exceeding  three  hundred  pounds.  This 
is  the  only  way  a steam-engine  can  possibly  travel  through  the  depart- 
ment of  Huancavelica.  The  unoccupied  mines  are  said  to  contain 
water,  and  air  so  offensive,  that  it  is  dangerous  for  the  workmen  to  enter 
them. 

This  department  has  a population,  by  the  government  estimate,  of 
T 6,1 1 1 people.  Two  of  the  aboriginal  race  to  one  Creole  will  not  be 
far  from  the  average  proportion.  As  the  old  Alcalde  honestly  confesses, 
he  don’t  know  how  many  people  live  in  his  small  town,  it  will  be  un- 
derstood how  difficult  it  is  to  get  anything  like  a correct  list.  The 
people  are  scattered  over  a great  space  of  country.  We  travel  a day 
over  the  wild  heights  without  meeting  with  a man,  or  find  a valley  too 
thickly  peopled  for  the  productions  raised  therein. 

The  department  is  divided  into  four  provinces,  each  governed  by  a 
sub-prefect.  These  are  again  divided  into  districts,  under  governors,  all 
of  whom  are  responsible  to  the  prefect  at  the  capital — Huancavelica — 
who  is  allowed  a secretary,  three  assistants,  and  a porter.  The  civil 
list  amounts  annually  to  six  thousand  four  hundred  and  ninety-five 
dollars.  The  prefect  is  appointed  by  the  government  at  Lima,  and  holds 
his  office  during  the  pleasure  of  the  President’of  the  republic.  The 
sub-prefects  and  governors  are  also  appointed  by  the  supreme  govern- 
ment, though  generally  through  the  recommendation  of  the  prefect  of 
the  department. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  left  Pancara ; our  good  old  friend,  the 
Alcalde,  still  eating  roasted  maize,  while  he  cheerfully  expressed  a 
desire  to  see  us  when  we  returned  again.  The  Indians  show  great 
surprise  when  they  are  told  that  we  will  not  return  that  way , and  seem 
to  be  buried  in  deep  thought,  as  though  it  troubled  them  to  make  out 
the  white  man’s  motions. 

Near  this  small  town  the  road  leads  through  a number  of  standing 
rocks,  which  have  been  washed  by  the  rains  into  sugar-loaf  forms ; and 
so  uniform  are  they,  that  it  seemed  like  passing  through  tents  in  an 
encampment.  The  rock  is  a soft  sandstone,  which  wears  awray  very  fast 
at  the  sides,  and  not  on  the  top,  where  seems  to  be  the  end  of  the  grain. 
Their  heights  are  from  12  to  18  feet,  and  so  well  shaped,  that  one 
might  be  erroneously  led  to  believe  they  were  the  work  of  a pyramidal- 


20 


CHICHA  AND  CHUPE. 


minded  race  of  men ; but,  upon  closer  examination,  we  found  the  work 
going  on  in  the  side  of  a bank,  which  was  being  regularly  divided  off 
into  sugar-loaves.  Ilad  we  entered  this  apparent  encampment  at  mid- 
night, 1 should  have  called  out,  for  those  rocks  which  stand  off  on  the 
plateau  a little  distance  look  like  sentry  boxes  around  the  main  body  of 
an  army. 

The  constant  wearing  away  of  these  elevated  portions  of  the  earth  is 
beautifully  demonstrated  here,  where  the  uplands  seem  to  be  diseolv- 
ng  and  settling  down  towards  a level — .examples  of  the  natural  working 
of  weather  upon  stones,  so  nearly  resembling  that  of  human  hands  with 
hammer  and  chisel.  We  found  these'  pyramids  for  some  distance 
along  the  road.  Some  of  them  were  inhabited  by  families  of  Indians, 
targe  square  holes  or  rooms  being  cut  in  the  north  side.  Some  rooms 
required  steps  to  ascend ; others  were  even  with  the.  ground.  I found 
the  family  at  home  in  one  of  them.  Near  the  doorway  was  a horse- 
trough  cut  in  the  stone,  and  above  it  a place  like  the  handle  of  a pot, 
where  the  end  of  the  halter  was  tied.  Cooking  utensils,  dogs,  and 
children  were  seen  in  the  lower  story,  while  the  Indian  woman  was 
spinning  wool  in  the  upper,  or  bed-room.  A few  regularly-built  stone 
houses  near  by  are  not  so  interesting. 

On  this  part  of  our  journey,  Indian  girls,  with  chicha  and  chupe  for 
sale,  are  seated  at  the  tops  of  the  steep  ascents.  Chicha  is  the  favorite 
drink  of  the  Indians.  A party — generally  old  women — seat  themselves 
around  a wooden  trough  containing  maize.  Each  one  takes  a mouthful, 
and  mashes  the  grain  between  her  teeth — if  she  has  any — and  casts  it 
back  into  the  trough  in  the  most  sickening  manner.  As  the  mill-stones 
are  often  pretty  well  worn,  the  operation  requires  time  and  perseverance. 
The  mass,  with  water  added,  is  then  boiled  in  large  coppers,  after 
which  it  is  left  to  ferment  in  huge  earthen  jars,  when  it  is  sold  by  the 
brewers  without  a license.  It  is  an  intoxicating  drink,  but  very  healthful, 
the  Indians  say.  Chupe  is  the  Peruvian  national  dish,  and  may  be 
made  of  any  and  everything,  so  long  as  it  holds  its  relationship  to  soup. 
It  is  made  generally  of  mutton,  potatoes,  eggs,  rice,  all  highly  seasoned 
with  pepper,  &c. 

As  the  weary  traveller  arrives  almost  breathless  at  the  top  of  the  hill, 
•the  girl  tempts  him.  I halted  by  one  of  them,  and  addressed  her  in 
Spanish,  but  she  answered  in  Quichua,  and  pointed  to  her  chupe,  which 
I believe  she  had  kept  warm  by  sitting  over  it  during  the  morning.  I 
thanked  her  kindly,  and  pushed  on.  Here  and  there  an  Indian  hut  is 
to  be  seen  at  a distance.  In  the  valley  to  our  right  are  flocks  of  sheep  ; 
and  the  merry  laugh  of  the  shepherdesses  echoes  through  the  mountains. 


A NEW  ENGLANDER  AMONG  THE  ANDES. 


21 


Two  girls  walking  after  their  flocks,  have  their  arms  around  each  other’s 
necks,  joking  and  laughing  as  they  leave  home  for  a day  among  the 
hills.  The  sheep  have  just  been  let  out  of  their  pen,  and  run,  one 
before  the  other,  nipping  the  frost-tipped  pasture.  The  dogs  follow 
sulkily,  with  heads  and  tails  hanging,  as  though  they  would  rather  stay 
at  home  if  there  was  any  company. 

Here,  as  we  rise  to  the  top  of  a mountain,  we  behold  all  around  one 
broken  mass,  ridge  beyond  ridge,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  like  waves 
of  the  tempest-tossed  ocean.  Our  mules  are  harassed,  and  the  chronom- 
eter positively  refuses  to  go  any  further.  As  we  descend  the  Indians 
are  harvesting  barley.  Horned  cattle  seem  to  fancy  the  atmospheric 
pressure  just  below  the  sheep. 

The  arrieros  keep  the  higher  road  which  brings  us  to  the  left  of  a 
valley.  From  the  ridge  we  see  the  small  town  of  Acobamba,  and  a turn 
in  the  Juaja  river,  dashing  over  its  rocky  bed,  as  the  wild  duck  flies 
quickly  against  the  current.  The  country  has  a fresher  appearance. . In 
the  ravines,  clusters  of  green  bushes  and  flowers  bloom ; 5 p.  m.,  air,  43°  ; 
wet  bulb,  39°,  at  Parcas  post. 

I succeeded  in  securing  a duck  supper  from  a small  lake,  with  a thick 
growth  of  rushes  in  the  centre.  The  common  mallard  duck,  and  a black 
species,  are  found  with  red  and  green  bills,  and  red  legs.  When  these 
take  fright,  they  hide  themselves  in  the  rushes  and  seldom  fly.  There 
are  a number  of  beds  of  lakes  which  are  filled  in  the  rainy  season ; at 
present  they  are  dry  ; on  this  route  it  is  usual  for  travellers  to  carry 
bottles  of  water  with  them.  A man  in  poncho  and  mountain  travelling 
dress  rode  up  behind  us,  with  an  Indian  girl  seated  behind  his  saddle.  .He 
refreshed  us  with  the  compliments  of  the  morning  in  plain  English:,  He 
came  out  of  the  valley  from  Acobamba,  though  born  in  New  Haven,  Con- 
necticut. His  spirited  horse  was  fretting  itself  over  the  rugged  road.  This 
man  was  proprietor  of  a circus  company;  had  been  many  years  in  South 
America,  and  as  we  slowly  wound  our  way  up  the  mountain,  told  us  his 
past  history  ; what  he  had  seen,  and  how  often  he  thought  of  returning 
to  New  England.  “But  nobody  knowsjne  now.  Years  ago  I heard  of 
the  changes  there,  and  don’t  believe  I should  know  my  native  place. 
I have  adopted  the  manners  and  customs  of  these  people,  and  if  I should 
return  to  the  United  States  again,  I fear  my  earnings  would  not.be  suffi- 
cient. I have  worked  in  this  country  for  years,  and  am  worth  nothing 
at  last.”  His  stories  of  travels  were  interesting.  He  had  encountered 
travellers  of  all  nations,  and  amused  me  with  the  way  in  which  some  of 
them  worked  their  way  through  the  rough  country,  among  the  people  of 
Mexico  and  South  America.  Speaking  of  the  mountain  roads  between 


22 


saint’s  DAY  OF  SAN  JAGO. 


Popoyan  and  Bogota,  in  New  Granada,  over  which  travellers  are  borne 
in  light  bamboo  chairs  upon  the  backs  of  Indians,  I discovered  that  he 
had  encountered  two  of  my  own  near  relations  on  that  route,  nearly 
twenty  years  before. 

He  had  sent  a branch  of  his  circus  to  Cerro  de  Pasco,  and  ordered  the 
horses,  on  a raft  at  Huallaga  river,  to  descend  that  stream,  and  the 
main  trunk  of  the  Amazon,  to  Para.  He  had  navigated  the  Mississippi 
in  a canoe,  and  assured  me  at  first  he  would  try  to  sell  his  horses  and 
go  with  me  down  the  Purus.  Every  now  and  then  his  English  ran  off 
into  Spanish.  Then  he  would  beg  my  pardon  for  not  speaking  his 
mother  tongue  as  well  as  when  a boy. 

The  Indians  of  the  surrounding  country  were  gathered  at  Marcas  post, 
to  celebrate  the  saint’s  day  of  San  Jago,  an  old  church  in  the  valley. 
The  obliging  master  of  the  post  had  just  returned  from  church,  a-little 
intoxicated,  like  most  other  folks  about  him.  The  Indians  were  dressed 
in  queer  costumes,  marching  in  procession,  with  drums  and  fifes,  through 
crowds  of  women ; some  wore  cows-horns  and  black  masks,  others 
cocked  hats  and  gold  laced  coats ; while  the  women  were  dressed  in  all 
colors.  Young  Creoles  dashed  about  on  horse-back ; girls  were  singing 
and  hanging  most  affectionately  on  the  shoulders  of  their  lovers.  The 
whole  crowd  was  high  on  a chicha  diet.  The  morning  had  been  spent 
in  prayers,  after  which  a grand  procession,  headed  by  the  priest.  We 
came  in  at  the  evening  ceremony.  The  scenery  was  as  beautiful  as 
strange;  the  church  below  us,  and  the  people  lining  the  road  from  it  to 
the  post  house,  while  drums  mingled  with  the  shouts  and  singing  of  the 
women.  Down  the  sides  of  the  mountain,  Sage’s  circus  company  slowly 
advance.  A queer-looking  Mexican  is  the  clown.  A little  dark  com- 
plexioned  Guayaquil  girl,  a neat  rider,  accompanies  a fine  looking  Peru- 
vian, whose  fat  wife,  with  sun-burnt  face,  follows.  Then  a pony  and  his 
playmate,  the  dog,  with  a beautiful  Peruvian  girl,  servants,  and  a long 
train  of  baggage  mules,  all  mixed  in  with  the  congregation.  As  the  sun 
sets  over  the  western  mountains,  a storm  rises  in  the  southwest,  with 
thunder  and  lightning. 

A long  steep  descent  brought  us  into  the  valley  of  Huanta,  where 
we  entered  the  department  of  Ayacucho.  The  horse  stands  at  ease ; 
the  swine  repose  coolly  under  the  shade  of  a fig-tree ; humming  birds 
buzz  among  the  flowers,  and  the  fresh-water  streams  ripple  through  the 
highly  cultivated  lucerne  fields.  The  gay,  laughing  faces  of  the  people 
speak  for  the  happiness  of  the  valley,  as  do  the  beautiful  flowers  for  its 
richness.  Potatoes,  beans,  apples,  chirimoyas,  and  granadillas  are  for 
sale  by  the  road-side.  Indian  girls  often  invite  us  to  take  chicha.  The 


FRUITS  AND  FLOWERS  OF  HUANTA. 


23 


climate  is  pleasant.  At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer  60°.  The  fig-tree  is  very 
large,  and  bending  with  fruit,  while  peach  blossoms  overhang  the  road ; 
large  clusters  of  green  cactus  shade  the  quiet  little  ring-dove;  the 
partridge  calls  from  beneath  the  barley  beards ; the  people  are  seated  by 
the  shady  brook  in  midsummer  costume.  Yesterday  we  were  shivering 
under  a midwinter  snow-storm,  high  up  on  the  mountains. 

At  the  town  of  Huanta,  my  letters  were  handed  to  the  governor, 
who  kindly  gave  me  possession  of  the  house  of  the  sub-prefect,  who  had 
gone,  with  his  family,  visiting  about  the  country.  Huanta  has  a popu- 
lation of  two  thousand  people.  From  the  balcony  we  have  a full  view 
of  the  plaza  and  the  market  people,  with  the  hills  in  the  back  ground, 
among  which  there  are  some  rich  silver  mines.  Many  have  been  aban- 
doned on  account  of  water.  People  are  anxious  to  receive  silver  bars, 
but  not  over  anxious  about  paying  the  necessary  expenses  for  getting 
them.  The  Indian  finds  great  hardship  and  little  profit,  while  he  goes 
with  hammer  and  chisel  mining  out  the  rich  metal.  The  creole  seats 
himself  at  the  mouth  of  the  mine,  wrapped  in  his  broadcloth  cloak,  and 
receives  the  treasure.  The  poor  Indian  prefers  cultivating  the  soil,  from 
which  it  is  difficult  to  persuade  him ; force,  at  times,  is  indirectly  ap- 
plied through  the  influence  and  power  of  the  authorities.  The  more 
intelligent  race  take  advantage  of  his  ignorance.  Some,  who  are  very 
intemperate,  of  course  are  generally  very  poor ; such  are  enticed  to  the 
mines  by  a regular  supply  of  chicha ; others,  again,  are  taught  to  be- 
lieve that  to  labor  in  this  world  for  the  benefit  of  others  is  to  lay  up 
treasures  for  them  in  a better  place  ; they  have  a dreadful  fear  of  tem- 
poral powers,  and  dare  not  disobey.  There  are  different ' sorts  of 
slavery  existing  among  different  kinds  of  free  people.  If  obliged  to 
choose,  many  would  rather  be  negro  slaves  in  North  America,  than  free 
Indians  in  the  South. 

The  governor  had  our  mules  cared  for,  and  invited  me  to  his  table 
under  the  shade  of  the  eastern  balcony.  He  was  a cheerful,  agreeable 
man  ; if  he  knew  how,  no  doubt  would  better  the  condition  of  those 
around  him.  His  fine,  healthy  boys  are  growing  up  in  idleness,  and.  a 
pretty  little  daughter  stands  most  of  the  day  in  the  balcony  watching  the 
Indians  in  the  plaza,  under  their  umbrella  shades,  selling  fruit.  She 
pointed  out  an  old  Spanish  creole,  said  to  be  one  hundred  and  five  years 
old. 

There  are  beggars  and  marks  of  the  smallpox.  In  the  ravines,  along 
the  sides  of  the  valley,  ague  and  fever  sometimes  prevail,  but,  generally, 
the  valley  is  very  healthy.  The  nights  are  cold  and  days  warm.  Du- 
ring our  few  days’  stay  here,  the  twilight  was  followed  by  flashes  of 


24 


ARRIEROS. 


lightning,  which  lit  up  the  whole  valley.  The  nights  are  cloudy,  which 
baffles  our  watch  for  the  stars.  The  day’s  travel  before  our  arrival  here 
was  harassing. 

The  roof  of  the  government  house  in  Huanta  is  well  tiled,  and  the 
walls  well  plastered,  with  paintings  of  full  figures  of  saints,  fairly  exe- 
cuted, on  them ; the  rooms  are  large,  furnished,  and  carpeted.  This  is 
the  exception  to  the  rule. 

The  Huancavelica  mules  and  arrieros  returned,  and  we  engaged  others. 
The  postman  examined  the  baggage ; pairs  off  the  loads ; and  receives 
half  the  passage-money  in  advance  the  day  before  starting.  He  in- 
quires, with  an  enterprising  air,  what  time  we  would  like  to  leave  in  the 
morning?  I have  found  it  best  to  tell  them  to  come  before  the  time 
appointed.  The  frequent  excuses  are  various — a mule  will  be  missing,  or, 
the  arriero  may  want  a wife— he  is  never  at  a loss  for  a reason  to  keep  you 
waiting  until  he  is  ready.  The  best  way,  after  fretting  a little  at  first,  is 
to  take  things  a little  easier  than  they  do.  It  is  amusing  to  see  how  they 
dislike  to  be  outdone,  and  hurry  to  break  down  opposition.  Whenever 
these  people  meet  with  difficulties,  the  rule  is  to  take  a seat,  and  from 
the  pocket  take  a small  piece  of  paper  or  corn  husk ; a tin  box  sup- 
plies tobacco,  to  be  rolled  up  in  the  shape  of  a cigar,  and  placed  be- 
hind the  ear ; a match  box  and  strike-a-light  are  produced,  and  the 
difficulty  is  considered  in  so  cool  a manner,  while  the  smoke  curls  up- 
wards, that  unless  you  saw  a mule,  baggage  and  all,  had  broken  through 
a miserable  bridge,  or  fallen  down  a precipice,  you  would  not  believe 
anything  had  happened.  The  tobacco  imported  from  Havana  into 
Peru  is- highly  prized,  and  a quantity  consumed.  Massachusetts  cotton 
goods  afie  sold  by  the  Indians,  in  the  plazas  of  these  inland  towns,  at 
three  times  their  value  in  the  United  States. 

Passing  through  the  small  town  of  Macachara,  I made  Jose  ask  an 
Indian  woman,  seated  on  the  side  of  the  street,  how  old  she  was  ? She 
answered,  one  hundred  years,  God  bless  you,  and  “ very  poor."  At  a 
well  built  stone  bridge,  dated  1770,  a flock  of  parrots  flew  by.  Our 
course  is  south,  over  a rocky,  dusty  road  ; the  day  clear  and  calm.  At 
noon,  thermometer,  71°,  with  snow-capped  mountains  to  the  northeast. 
There  is  very  little  growth  on  the  mountains — here  and  there  some 
cactus.  We  arrived  at  the  side  of  a stream  through  which  a number 
of  women  were  wading.  No  wonder  they  carry  such  loads  on  their 
backs,  they  are  so  stout  built.  An  old  woman,  with  four  handsome 
daughters,  kept  her  dress  much  dryer  than  any  of  the  girls,  though 
they  were  more  careful  after  they  found  how  deep  it  was.  They  are 
not  nervous,  and  don’t  mind  men  much.  A plateau  is  cultivated  with 


FROM  HUANTA 


DEPARTMENT  OF  AYACUCHO. 


25 


barley,  and  we  felt  somewhat  interested  in  the  ground  over  which  we 
travel.  It  is  the  battle-field  of  Ayacucho,  where  the  royalists  of  Spain, 
under  command  of  Viceroy  Laserna,  met  the  independent  South  Amer- 
icans, uuder  the  brave  Venezuelan  Sucre.  This  battle  took  place  on 
the  9th  day  of  December,  1824,  when  the  whole  of  the  Peruvian  terri- 
tory was  surrendered,  with  the  exception  of  Callao. 

The  country  around  is  wild  and  deeply  washed  with  gullies  and  ra- 
vines in  the  wet  season.  The  Spaniards  flocked  to  this  country  for  silver 
and  gold ; they  built  a large  city,  and  called  it  Huamanga  ; the  repub- 
licans changed  its  name  to  Ayacucho,  in  honor  of  the  victory.  It  is 
the  capital  of  the  department,  which  is  divided  into  five  provinces,  and 
contains  a population  of  129,921. 

The  complexion  of  the  people  becomes  lighter  as  we  get  south,  ind 
fewer  Indians  speak  Spanish.  They  all  say  “buenos  tardes”  (good 
evening)  when  we  meet  them,  even  if  it  be  at  sunrise.  Many  of  their 
expressions  in  Quichua  sound  like  the  language  of  the  natives  of  the 
South  Pacific  islands,  as  I recollect  it  ten  years  ago,  while  cruising  as 
a midshipman  in  the  ship-of-war  St.  Louis. 

The  city  of  Ayacucho  has  a population  of  ten  thousand  people  ; the 
houses  have  two  stories,  with  large  rooms  and  court-yards ; the  streets 
run  at  right  angles,  and  are  paved.  On  the  grand  plaza  stands  an 
immense  cathedral,  of  stone,  with  heavy  bells  and  iron-fastened  doors. 
There  are  twenty-two  other  churches.  The  whole  city  was  built  on  a 
gTand  and  expensive  scale.  The  present  population  indicate  a falling  off 
in  numbers  and  wealth.  The  streets  are  strewed  with  racked  children, 
and  beggar  men.  Under  large  corridors  are  seen  lounging  sleepy  old 
soldiers,  with  muskets  and  fixed  bayonets ; officers  parade  the  streets, 
buttoned  up  to  the  throat,  with  dangling  swords,  and  some  of  the  most 
unclean  looking  priests  we  have  ever  beheld. 

In  the  two  schools  there  are  only  thirty  pupils.  A professor  of  belles 
lettres  and  poetry , informed  me  that  geography  was  only  provided  for  in 
the  college  of  Lima  ; and  a teacher  of  latin  yrammar  said  the  reason 
they  had  so  few  scholars  was,  the  parents  were  too  poor  to  pay  for 
schooling.  Among  the  aboriginals  it  is  very  unusual  to  find  one  who 
can  write  his  name,  and  not  unusual  to  find  creoles  who  cannot  write. 
As  to  reading,  I have  never  seen  a person  in  the  country  so  occupied, 
and  have  not  seen  a public  journal. 

In  the  plaza  the  Indians  sell  barley,  wheat,  maize,  potatoes,  onions, 
lucerne,  and  fruits,  brought  from  the  other  side  of  the  eastern  ridge. 
In  a blacksmith’s  shop  I found  the  mestizos  burning  charcoal,  and  upon 
asking  whether  they  used  stone  coal,  they  all  stopped  work,  and, 


26 


BLACKSMITHS. 


■with  an  air  of  astonishment,  said  they  had  never  seen  coal  dug  out 
of  the  ground,  nor  iron  neither.  One  of  them  showed  me  a piece  of 
charcoal,  and  inquired  whether  I had  seen  any  before  ! As  they  were 
about  shoeing  a mule,  I remained.  The  smith  came  into  the  street  with 
a short-handled  whip,  long  lash,  and  box  of  tools,  accompanied  by  four 
workmen.  One  of  them  doubled  a hair  rope  and  slung  the  mule’s  hind 
foot  to  its  tail ; in  doing  so  there  was  some  kicking.  The  tools  were  at 
once  set  aside,  and  the  sprightly  mule  most  cruelly  whipped ; after 
which  the  shoe  was  nailed  on  and  the  hoof  cut  to  fit  it.  The  horse- 
shoes are  imported. 


GOLD  AND  SILVER  ORNAMENTS. 


27 


CHAPTER  II. 

Gold  and  silver  ornaments — Bridal  trip  on  the  Andes — Manufacturers  of  bark 
rope — Cotton  trees — Winds  and  currents  of  the  mountains — Population— Culti- 
vation— Flocks  of  sheep — Frosty  nights — Reports  of  robbers — Shoemaker — 
Ancient  fortification — Indians  travelling — Condor’s  wings — A padre  on  the 
road — Sugar-cane  patches — Spanish  Creoles — An  African  slave — Apurimac 
bridge — Cabbage  patch — Peruvian  widow — Bull  fight — Fish  and  horned  cattle — 
Cuzco — Market  place — Steamboat  navigation — Eastern  side  of  the  Andes — 
Coca  plantation — Head  of  Madre  de  Dios — Rivers  Cosnipata,  Tono,  and 
Pinipini — Forests — Tigers — Monkeys — Chuncho  savages — View  of  the  low 
lands  from  a peak  of  the  Andes — Cinchona  bark  gatherers. 

This  town  was  formerly  celebrated  for* manufacturers  of  beautiful  gold 
and  silver  ornaments.  Exported  to  Spain  they  were  highly  prized. 
Old  ornaments  are  still  for  sale,  which  are  of  virgin  metal,  some  of 
them  curious  imitations  of  birds  and  animals.  In  the  small  shops 
around  the  plaza,  cotton  goods  are  sold,  but  there  is  little  activity  in 
anything.  The  picture  of  decay  is  distressing ; blind  people  walk  arm 
in  arm  with  cripples  ; no  sound  of  busy  wheels  or  of  business  is  heard ; 
a death-like  silence  prevails,  both  day  and  night,  only  broken  by  the 
chime  of  enormous  steeple  bells,  where  the  ragged  population  kneel  be- 
fore an  altar  groaniug  with  the.  precious  metals.  The  priests,  with  few 
exceptions,  are  the  only  fat  looking  people  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
others  being  taxed  for  the  support  of  the  government  and  the  church. 

There  are  many  pleasant  families  here ; the  gentlemen  frank  aud 
agreeable.  Several  of  them  came  to  see  me,  and  expressed  great 
pleasure  at  the  idea  of  advancing  their  country  by  steam  navigation. 
One  gray-headed  gentleman  told  me  he  probably  would  not  live  to  see 
the  result  of  the  expedition,  but  he  believed  his  sons  would,  and  daugh- 
ters too.  He  gave  me  his  blessing,  which  was  quite  sincere.  The  pre- 
fect was  also  interested  in  the  enterprize,  and  showed  it  by  presenting 
maps,  and  furnishing  everything  necsssary  for  an  easy  passage  through 
a rough  country.  We  were  comfortably  quartered,  and  kindly  treated  by 
all.  The  ladies  of  Ayacucho  are  handsome,  ride  well  on  horseback, 
are  extremely  agreeable  in  conversation,  and  naturally  talented.  One 
wCo  can  boast  of  having  been  in  Lima,  is  never  a “ wall  flower”  among 
them.  With  a modest  beating,  they  speak  out,  and  to  the  point. 


28 


ICE-CREAM  COUNTRY. 


Some  answer  serious  questions  affirmatively  at  the  age  of  twelve  years. 
One  of  the  first  they  ask  is,  “ are  you  married  ?” 

Sugar  and  vanilla  beaus  are  produced  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
mountains.  Ice  and  rock  salt  are  brought  from  the  glaciers,  in  sight, 
with  cream  from  the  valley.  Ice-cream  is  made  and  sold  by  the  Indian 
women  in  the  plaza.  Our  pistols  kept  blight,  and  burnished  steel  re- 
mains in  the  open  air  without  rusting.  Grapes  are  not  very  fine  in  quality. 
Goats  seem  to  thrive  better,  and  poultry  again  appears  here.  At  din- 
ner, seated  by  a lady,  with  large  gold  rings  on  each  hand,  and  heavy 
gold  chains  around  her  neck,  supporting  a locket  and  gold  cross,  it  was 
remarked  that,  those  wearing  expensive  ornaments  were  supposed  to  be 
wealthy.  She,  evidently  pleased,  asked  me  to  help  her  cut  her  chicken 
bones  into  tooth  picks.  Some  of  the  dishes,  cups,  spoons,  and  forks  were 
roughly  made  of  solid  silver,  though  there  are  thought  to  be  few  wealthy 
people  in  the  city. 

Breakfast  is  taken  at  from' 1,0  to  11  a.  m.,  dinner  from  4 to  5 p.  m. 
If  supper  is  taken,  it  is  at  a very  late  hour ; cotfee  is  drank  early 
in  the  morning,  and  tea  jn  the  evening.  Tables  only  are  set  twice; 
their  meats  are  served  in  different  forms,  highly  seasoned -with  pepper 
and  spices,  generally  accompanied  with  potatoes.  Quinua,  a native  plant, 
considered  a delicacy,  is  also  prepared  in  different  ways ; the  seeds  are 
cooked  with  cheese,  or  boiled  with  milk  and  pimento. 

On  Monday,  August  4,  1851,  at  8 a.  m.,  thermometer,  59°;  wet 
bulb,  54°.  Our  course  stretches  to  the  eastward  again,  over  a dry,  un- 
interesting road,  hedged  in  with  cactus,  bearing  the  Tuna  fruit.  The 
country  is  uncultivated,  except  in  the-  valleys.  Crossing  a well-built 
stone  bridge,  over  a stream  flowing  northward,  we  passed  a grist-mill. 
Peach  trees  were  in  blossom,  and  some  few  flowers.  After  a ride  ovg: 
these  barren  heights,  the  sight  of  a fresh  rapid  brook  gladdens  the  hearts 
of  our  mules. 

Matara  post  house  is  near  a gorge  in  the  range  of  mountains  trend- 
ing southeast  and  northwest.  The  potatoes  and  barley  are  of  good  size 
here  ; on  the  northwest  side  of  a hill,  I cut  eleven  stalks  of  wheat,  pro- 
duced from  one  seed,  and  counted  four  hundred  and  fourteen  grains  from 
the  heads  of  these  sprouts.  It  is  not  unusual  to  see  twenty  stalks  pro- 
duced from  one  grain — eleven  is  about  the  average.  These  crops  are 
only  raised  after  a careful  system  of  irrigation.  The  Indians  lead  the 
water  from  the  heights  to  a great  distance ; this  seems  to  be  a favorite 
occupation  with  them.  Wherever  water  can  be  had,  there  the  soil 
yields  a rich  harvest ; in  other  places,  the  mid-day  sun  kills  the  young 
stalks. 


*j  HeulLGAWUS.-N  MATARA  POST  HOUSE 


BRIDAL  TRIP  ON  THE  ANDES. 


29 


One  of  our  arrieros — a Quichua  Indian — lias  hi3  wife;  being  just 
married,  they  are  very  fond.  This  appears  to  be  her  bridal  trip.  Mounted 
like  a man,  on  a white  horse,  her  blue  dress  and  scarlet  manto  show 
to  advantage.  She  wears  a straw  hat,  with  broad  ribband.  Her  hair, 
after  their  custom,  is  plaited  and  hangs  in  two  braids  over  her  shoulders. 
The  Indians  all  salute  her  as  she  rides  by,  and  has  something  pleasant 
to  say  to  both ; she  bows  and  receives  it  smilingly,  while  he  looks 
modestly,  and  becomes  very  much  engaged  attending  to  his  duties  ; 
while  nearly  out  of  sight,  among  the  mountains,  he  is  constantly  talking 
by  her  side. 

Over  these  rough  roads  the  arrieros  generally  travel  on  foot.  They 
walk  for  days  with  more  ease  than  the  mules,  and  quite  as  fast.  On  the 
plains  they  trot  along  after  the  baggage  for  hours  at  a time.  Messages 
from  the  governors  and  sub-prefects  are  often  sent  to  the  prefect  by 
Indians,  on  foot,  rather  than  by  horse  or  mule.  The  man  cuts  across 
the  mountains  and  delivers  his  despatches  long  before  they  could  arrive 
by  the  road.  I believe  the  Indians,  prefer  walking  to  riding.  Sandals 
protect  their  feet  from  the  rocky  and  gravelly  road,  being  at  the  same 
time’  cool.  Whatever  they  have  to  carry  is  fastene'd  to  the  back,  leav- 
ing the  arms  free.  Sometimes  they  have  a short  cane  in  one  hand  for 
protection  against'  dogs,  or  for  support  over  steep,  irregular  paths.  I 
have  seen  them  crawling  on  all  fours,  up  hill. 

" We  expected  an  extended  view  over  lands  to  the  east  of  our  range, 
but  when  we  arrived  at  the  ridge  in  the  gorgej  we  saw  mountains  be- 
yond mountains,  snow  peaks  and  rocky  rounded  tops,  deep  valleys  and 
narrow  ravines,  all  thrown  about  in  confused  shapes.  After  travelling 
for  hours,  w^made  leagues  by  the  road ; yet  the  distance  from  the  Pacific 
to  the  Atlantic  is  short  on  our  map. 

In  the  small  town  of  Ocron,  the  people  were  threshing  barley  and 
twisting  bark  into  rope.  A good  looking  young  man  arose  from  the 
rope-making  party  of  men  and  women,  and  offered  us  a glass  of  chicha. 
It  seemed  impolite  to  refuse  a kind  offer  when  the  people  do  you  a favor 
and  wish  you  to  consider  it  as  such,  but  I cannot  drink  it ; so  declining 
with  thanks,  we  pass  on  leaving  Jose,  who  naturally  leans  the  cliicha- 
way.  After  a long  descent,  we  encamped  by  a lonely  house,  enveloped 
in  foliage.  At  3 p.  in.,  thermometer,  73°.  We  have  sand  flies,  mus- 
quitos,  bugs,  bees,  and  humming-birds.  The  whole  scene  is  changed,  to 
mid-summer ; cotton  grows  upon  small  trees,  so  do  peaches  and  chiri- 
moyas. 

The  Peruvian  mail  passed  by  from  Lima  on  its  way  to  the  southern 


30  WINDS  AND  CURRENTS  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


departments.  The  letters  are  earned  in  two  small  hide  boxes  on  the 
back  of  a fine  mule,  with  a swallow-tailed  red  and  white  flag  flying 
from  a short  pole  fastened  between  the  trunks.  The  conductor  is  well 
mounted  and  armed ; wears  a scarlet  cloak,  and  rides  after ; while  the 
mounted  arriero  trots  ahead,  blowing  a horn.  They  travel  at  a quickened 
pace  up  hill  and  down.  I should  like  to  overhaul  that  letter  box  ; but 
remittances  are  often  made  by  the  mail,  and  a desire  to  look  for  United 
States  letters  on  the  road  might  be  considered  unlawful. 

We  crossed  the  Rio  Pampas,  flowing  northwest,  upon  a suspension 
bridge  made  of  bark  rope.  Eight  cables  are  stretched  across,  over  which 
small  cross  pieces  of  light  wood  are  fastened  to  form  a floor ; two  large 
cables  above  the  sides  bear  part  of  the  weight,  by  small  ropes  laced  from 
the  floor  over  them.  Great  care  had  to  be  taken  by  leading  the  mules 
one  by  one.  My  mule,  Rose,  gave  more  trouble  than  any ; she  was  very 
much  frightened,  and  would  not  budge  until  another  mule  walked  just 
before  her,  and  we  all  urged  her  not  to  turn  back.  I feared  she  would 
rush  through  the  lacing  into  the  river,  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
below.  The  creaking  and  swinging  of  the  bridge  was  fearful  for  about 
forty  yards.  We  saw  fishermen  in  the  light-green  water  below  ; on  the 
rocks  sat  numbers  of  cormorants,  ready  to  dive  for  fish.  The  stream  is 
rapid  and  very  winding,  turning  snake-like  round  the  base  of  mountains 
on  its  way  through  the  Apurimac,  Ucayali,  and  Amazon,  to  the  Atlantic. 
It  takes  its  rise  to  the  south  of  us,  near  the  tops  of  the  great  Cordilleras ; 
our  road  leads  along  its  banks,  ascending  through  stunted  trees,  from 
which  sweet  air  plants  hang  in  full  flower.  Here  the  vegetable  produc- 
tions seem  to  suffer  in  the  struggle  between  the  moisture  from  the  river 
and  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  which  seem  to  obstruct  an^keep  down 
the  plant  that  shows  a desire  to  improve. 

After  a long  and  tiresome  ascent  we  reached  Bombam  post  house ; 
the  postmaster  offered  his  house,  and  seemed  astonished  that  we  did  not 
seek  it  in  preference  to  our  tent.  lie  sent  us  chicken  soup  and  boiled 
corn  for  supper.  A flock  of  kids  came  playing  about  our  tent ; their 
faces  resemble  those  of  monkeys.  The  Indians  killed  a large  hog,  and 
the  women  made  blood  pudding.  Jose  assured  me  it  was  good  with 
chicha ; he  seems  to  fancy  the  custom  of  living  among  the  Indians. 

There  is  no  regular  wind  in  this  region ; currents  of  air  draw  in 
through  the  mountains  from  all  directions ; although  the  clouds  far 
above  us  show  wind,  we  are  unable  to  tell  that  it  comes  from  any  par- 
ticular direction,  and  below  it  is  quite  calm.  While  encamped  on  the 
high  places,  frequent  efforts  were  made  to  distinguish  the  satellites  of 


REPORTS  OF  ROBBERS. 


■ 31 


Jupiter  by  tlie  naked  eye,  but  we  are  not  high  enough  for  that  yet, 
though  our  sight  is  very  good.  The  rivers  around  flow  to  every  point 
of  the  compass,  and  make  it  difficult  to  decide  if  the  waters  make  the 
winds,  or  the  relative  positions  of  the  mountains  alone  cause  these  drafts. 
The  winds  are  very  gentle,  and  curl  the  cirrus  or  hairy  clouds  in  most 
graceful  shapes  about  the  hoary-headed  Andes  in  rich  and  delicate 
clusters ; when  the  peak  is  concealed,  all  but  the  blue  tinge  below  the 
snow,  we  see  a natural  bridal  veil.  An  easterly  wind  lifts  and  turns 
them  to  dark,  chmulus  clouds,  settled  on  the  frosty  crown,  like  an  old 
man’s  winter  cap  ; the  physiognomical  expression  is  that  of  anger.  The 
change  is  accompanied  .by  thunder,  and  seems  to  command  all  around 
to  clothe  themselves  for.  storms.  The  cold  rain  comes  down  in  fine 
drops  upon  us ; the  day  grows  darker,  and  the  clouds  press  close  upon 
the  earth.  Our  oil-cloth  hat-covers  and  India-rubber  ponchos  were 
admired  at  a small  settlement.  The  children  were  at  school  under  a 
shed,  pulling  their  bare  feet  under  them  to  keep  them  warm ; they 
• looked  as  if  they  wished  school  was  out.  ' The  people  are  better  look- 
ing as  we  travel  south,  and  are  more  cheerful.  A girl  stowed  Jose’s 
saddle-bags  with  fresh  bread  and  cheese  from  a door-way,  and  said  she 
would  rather  travel  than  keep  shop.  Jose  said  his  work  was  wet;  she 
answered,  hers  was  too  dry.  The  road  becomes  very  slippery  when  wet ; 
it  is  best  to  have  the  mules  shod  for  safety  as  for  the  comfort  of  the 
animal.  They  worry  very  much  sliding  about  under  heavy  rain  ; some 
of  the  baggage  mules  fall  upon  the  ground.  The  flat  lands  are  thickly 
populated,  and  well  cultivated.  On  the  Tolling  mountains  we  come  to 
grazing  again ; the  flocks  roam  in  the  desert,  where  we  pass  the  night. 
At  supper  tiie  arriero  tells  Jose,  in  Quichua,  this  is  a dangerous  country  ; 
robbers  live  in  numbers  among  the  mountain-tops.  They  meet  the 
travellers  at  night  upon  this  uninhabitable  part  of  the  road,  and  make 
what  terms  they  please.  Their  modes  of  attack  differ.  If  they  see  the 
party  in  day  time,  and  know  the  number,  they  come  boldly  up  and  make 
their  demands ; if  they  are  in  doubt,  their  guide  comes  alone  ; inquires 
after  the  traveller’s  health ; requests  a light  for  his  cigar,  keeping  his 
eyes  about  him.  After  expressing  a wish  to  purchase,  he  returns  to  his 
party,  with  a full  report  of  his  reconnoissance.  Whether  they  attack  or 
not,  the  chances  are  that  they  will  steal  the  mules  at  pasture  during  the 
night.  Jose  don’t  feel  at  ease;  is  anxious,  after  telling  me  the  story, to 
know  what  we  shall  do.  The  plan  for  the  night  was  arranged.  If 
the  guia  comes,  he  was  to  be  made  fast  to  the  baggage  as  soon  as  he 
lit  his  cigar.  Jose  was  to  keep  hot  water  at  the  fire ; one  arriero  to 
sleep  with  a lasso  at  hand,  the  other  to  watch  the  mules.  Should  any 


32 


ANDAHUAILAS. 


one  approach  our  tent,  the  arriero  was  instructed  to  lasso  and  haul  him 
in  under  Jose’s  hot  water.  Richards  was  armed  with  a carbine  and  two 
large  ship  pistols ; my  double-barrelled  gun  and  five-shooter,  with  rifle 
bore,  made  us  in  all  ten  shots.  At  midnight  Jose  peeped  into  the  tent, 
and  after  several  anxious  calls,  said,  “Sir,  tbe  guia  is  coming.”  JoSe  did 
not  admire  the  general  plan  of  action,  but  it  was  not  changed.  Upon 
close  examination,  we  found  the  supposed  guia  to  be  a donkey  gazing 
at  the  fire.  The  weapons  used  by  the  robbers  is  a short  thick  club,  slung 
6tone  balls,  and  knives.  They  seldom  use  fire-arms,  but  dread  them. 
The  savage,  dissipated  negro,  or  Peruvian- robber,  may  come  up  bravely 
with  his  dagger,  intent  to  commit  murder ; but  let  him  hear  the  click 
of  a revolver  and  he  vanishes;  the  noise  is  offensive  to  him.  Robbers 
waylay  travelling  merchants,  lonely  strangers,  and  trains  of  merchan- 
dise with  loads  of  silver.  The  mules  are  turned  from  the  .road  into  a 
wild  mountain  gorge, -where  none  but  robbers  live,  and  forever  lost  to 
the  owner.  The  MontonerOg,  as  they  are  called,  control  the  country 
around. 

About  daylight  in  the  morning,  Jos6  was  heard  grumbling  to  himself 
While  he  was  a sleep  a shepherdess’s  dog  robbed  his  saddle-bags  of  our 
bread  and  cheese.  Sketched  the  encampment ; called  it  Ladron  ; and 
pushed  on.  A thick  fog,  and  show  under  foot.  At  6 a.  m.,  thermometer, 
39°;  wet  bulb,  37°.  The  pasture  is  improved  by  burning  down  the 
grass  at  this  season.  While  the  rain  storm  beats  from  the  eastward, 
flocks  of  vicunas  are  grazing  to  the  west  of 'us.  The  rain  turns  to  hail 
as  the  wind  veers  to  northeast. 

In  the  valley  of  Andahuailas,  we  see  the  wild  cherry  tree  for  the  first 
time  in  South  America.  Aft6i-  sundown,  the  bright  pink  fight,  which 
often  attracts  attention  at"  Lima,  and  sometimes  alarms  the  .natives,  ap- 
pears not  unlike  the  aurora  borealis,  rising  far  above  the  Cordilleras  in 
the  west,  while  the  bright  moon  fights  our  path  over  the  Andes  to 
the  east.  In  Andahuailas  we  joined  the  sub-prefect  and  family  at 
breakfast.  Our  baggage  was  placed  in  a large  room,  and  mules  in  the 
corral.  If  hospitality  was  not  quite  so  highly  seasoned  with  hot  pepper 
it  would  go  down  easier.  The  rough  life  on  the  mountains  agrees 
with  body  and  mind  much  better  than  the  luxuries  of  the  valley  seem 
to  do. 

This  town  has  a population  of  fifteen  hundred  ; mostly  Indians.  The 
valley  contains  six  thousand.  There  is  a great  deal  of  poverty.  The 
cultivated  portions  of  land  seem  to  be  over  populated.  Deaf  and 
dumb  lounge  about,  A good-looking  woman,  with  a baby  in  her  arms, 
came  to  my  door  begging  for  bread.  Her  intelligent  face  was  sad. 


. -4\. 


r.ilh.of  ES.Duvaia-C?  Phil? 


MESTIZO  SHOEMAKER. 


33 


When  I gave  her  money,  the  poor  creature  nearly  bent  on  her  knees 
before  us.  My  gun-cover  wanted  repairs;  and  while  applying  to  a 
mestizo  shoemaker,  with  three  or  four  apprentices,  the  sub-prefect  joined 
me.  I unguardedly  told  him  what  I wished,  aud  remarked  that  the 
man  had  so  much  business  he  could  not  repair  it  in  time,  when  I was 
astonished  to  hear  the  sub-prefect  order  him  in  a loud  and  passionate 
way  to  do  the  work.  The  shoemaker  pointed  to  the  large  amount  of 
work  on  hand,  and  said  he  could  not  possibly  attend  to  it ; when  he  was 
at  once  ordered  to  do  what  he  was  told  by  the  next  morning,  and  to 
bring  it  to  the  government  house.  The  cover  was  repaired,  and  shoe- 
maker paid.  Afterwards  I was  more  careful. 

There  are  abandoned  silver  mines  five  leagues  south,  one  of  which  has 
been  re-opened  by  a North  American — Charles  Stone.  I did  not  see 
him,  but  understood  he  hopes  to  work  profitably. 

The  productions  of  the  valley  are  maize,  barley,  wheat,  lucerne,  beans^ 
potatoes,  small  apples  and  peaches,  with  a few  chirimoyas  of  inferior 
quality.  The  tanas  fruit  is  very  abundant ; the  cactus  flower  beautiful. 
The  wine  drank  at  the  sub  prefect’s  table  was  manufactured  from  the 
Yea  grape.  The  wife  of  the  sub-prefect  was  a very  kind  person.  At 
breakfast  and  dinner  hours,  ten  to  twelve  poor  Indians  were  sometimes 
fed  by  her.  She  teaches  her  little  son  to  treat  them  politely,  telling 
him  to  help  them  to  water,  &c. 

Entering  the  small  town  of  Ileronimo,  we  find  all  the  inhabitants 
bare-headed,  on  their  knees  in  the  streets  and  doorways ; church  bells 
ringing;  host  on  the  way  through  the  town.  A padre  walks,  with 
book  in  hand,  attended  by  a man  with  a large  umbrella  to  keep  oft'  the 
sun.  A number  of  women  and  men  follow,  uttering  prayers.  One  of 
them  rings  a small  bell.  We  halted  under  the  shade  of  a house  while 
the  host  entered  the  church.  As  the  people  rose,  we  travelled  on.  Six 
leagues  brought  us  to  Pincor  post,  where  we  enjoyed  a supper  of  wild 
pigeons,  six  of  which  were  killed  at  one  shot.  They  are  large,  and  very 
like  tame  pigeons.  The  arrieros  and  Jose  cooked  them  on  sticks  before 
our  camp  fire.  Here,  for  the  first  time,  we  saw  a snake.  The  songs  of 
frogs  are  heard  among  lofty  mountains.  At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  65°; 
August  15th.  Next  morning  at  6 a.  m.,  thermometer,  38°;  wet  bulb, 
36°  ; temperature  of  a spring,  4C°. 

On  a narrow  ridge,  with  deep  valleys  on  both  sides,  we  have  a view 
of  snow-clad  mountains  to  the  east ; by  the  road-side  an  ancient  fort, 
called  by  the  arrieros  “Quramba.”  The  arrieros  (Quichua  Indians) 
expressed  pleasure  and  surprise  when  they  saw  the  sketch,  wrapping 
themselves  up  in  their  ponchos,  and  kneeling  on  the  ground,  looking  on. 
3 


34 


condor’s  wings. 


A party  of  Indians  came  silently  up  the  ridge;  on  a journey  they  are 
quiet ; when  at  home  they  play  upon  wind  instruments  and  drums* 
The  girls  often  sing,  but  I never  heard  any  whistling ; they  are  not 
great  talkers,  except  when  excited,  and  then  the  women’s  tongues  are 
remarkably  fast.  Nor  do  I believe  they  are  active  thinkers.  Their 
eyes  are  constantly  moving,  for  they  are  sharp-sighted,  and  notice  every 
thing  near  them  by  a quick,  sly  glance.  Their  hearing  is  very  good ; 
so  is  their  knowledge  of  the  manners,  habits,  and  peculiarities  of  animals, 
being  constantly  on  the  watch  for  game,  which  they  trap,  as  they  are 
not  practised  in  the  use  of  fire-arms ; nor  do  these  Indians  use  the  bow 
and  arrow.  A boy  in  the  party  had  a pair  of  condor’s  wings ; one  of 
them  four  feet  five  inches  from  the  body  joint  to  the  tip  end.  The 
bone  and  joints  remind  one  of  heavy  iron  door  hinges.  The  boy  had 
caught  the  condor  in  a trap,  and  the  bird  being  too  much  for  a load,  he 
cut  off  the  wings  and  seemed  to  be  troubled  with  the  weight  of  them 
on  his  back.  The  condor  is  often  seen  along  the  sea-shore,  feeding 
upon  cast-up  dead  fish  ; but  it  is  among  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  mountain 
this  wild  bird  builds  its  nest.  The  most  daring  and  experienced  climb- 
ers among  the  boys  are  unable  to  reach  their  young,  or  rob  their  eggs. 
We  looked  for  the  nest  and  longed  to  see  the  extraordinary  bird  rise 
from  the  valley,  bearing  in  beak  and  claws  a young  lamb  to  its  little 
ones ; or  flying  from  one  mountain  to  another  with  a young  vicuna. 
The  Indians  are  fond  of  baiting  condors ; they  sometimes  hide  close 
enough  to  the  bait  to  lasso  them,  and  have  been  known  to  conceal 
themselves  under  the  bait  and  catch  them  by  the  legs. 

Huancarama,  a small  Indian  town  situated  in  a valley,  with  a little 
old  church,  and  Indian  population.  We  met  the  priest  on  the  road  re- 
turning to  town  ; he  was  followed  by  a number  of  persons,  to  whom  he 
read  aloud  as  he  rode  along  up  hill.  Our  baggage  mules  met  him  in  a 
very  narrow  pass;  all  came  to  a stand-still,  and  the  not  over-cleanly 
padre  was  addressing  the  arriero  in  a loud  and  excited  voice.  Jose 
assured  him  it  was  up-hill  work  for  his  party  to  back  out ; if  he  would 
be  kind  enough  to  stand  on  one  side,  we  would  pass  on,  which  was  done. 
As  we  cleared  each  other,  after  some  chafing  of  baggage,  the  extreme 
politeness  of  the  padre  was  more  becoming.  Sometimes  arrieros  en- 
gage in  dreadful  fights  with  stones,  followed  up  with  knives ; on  such 
occasions  the  weaker  party  are  forced  to  give  way  to  the  strong.  It  is 
generally  considered  proper  for  those  coming  up,  to  halt  on  one  side  to 
give  their  mules  a rest.  Those  standing  with  heavy  loads,  head  down 
hill,  suffer,  and  are  anxious  to  push  on.  Noises  made  in  the  valley  re- 
sound through  the  mountains ; an  uproar  on  the  summit  causes  little 


RUIN  OF  THE  INCA'S  FORT.  $URAMBA  Peru 


SUGAR-CANE  PATCHES. 


35 


noise  ; the  echo  among  these  hills  is  very  great.  These  people  are  very 
careful  to  unsaddle  animals  only  after  they  are  cool ; otherwise,  they  say 
bumps  rise  on  the  back,  which  become  sore.  They  even  leave  the 
bridle  a while  for  fear  that  taking  it  off  suddenly  will  give  the  mule  cold 
in  the  head. 

We  see  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley  of  Carquacahua  the  first  sugar 
plantation.  An  old  Indian,  with  hoe  in  hand,  is  leading  the  snowy 
waters  of  the  Andes  between  rows  of  sugar  plants,  which  are  now  two 
feet  high,  with  rich,  yellow  leaves.  Man  seems  to  sutler  like  the  plant 
from  the  heat  of  the  sun ; both  would  perish  under  it  in  this  valley, 
without  sufficient  water  for  irrigating  the  soil ; with  it,  he  plants  and 
produces  a crop  every  year.  A little  above  his  head,  on  the  mountain 
side,  there  appears  another  climate,  with  stunted  clusters  of  cactus,  small 
dry  bunches  of  grass,  rocks,  and  dusty  soil,  deserted  by  animal  life,  ex- 
cept a green  lizard  basking  in  the  parching  rays  of  the  sun.  A little 
higher  the  surface  is  covered  with  a lead-colored  coat  of  grass,  turning 
a little  greenish  as  the  eye  ascends ; when  suddenly  a streak  of  dark 
earth  is  capped  by  the  pure  white  snow,  and  as  you  look  up  it  seems  to 
get  deeper  and  deeper,  until  the  soil  is  completely  enclosed  in  a pyramid 
of  eternal  snow. 

The  old  Indian  exchanges  his  sugar  crop  in  the  plaza  for  Massachu- 
setts cotton  goods. 

Crossing  a stone  bridge,  dated  1564,  over  a stream  of  water  flowing 
northwest,  wre  met  a party — ladies  and  gentlemen — travelling  on  horse- 
back. The  gentlemen  wear  green  goggles,  and  the  ladies  green  veils,  to 
protect  the  eyes  from  the  glare  of  the  sun,  as  the  reflection  of  his  rays 
on  the  snow  often  causes  inflammation  of  the  eyes,  said  to  be  very  painful 
in  the  rainy  season,  when  the  snow-line  reaches  below  the  road.  Though 
we  experienced  no  inconvenience  from  the  surumpe,  as  this  affection  is 
called,  the  creole  portion  of  the  population  seem  to  be  much  afraid  of  it, 
particularly  the  gentlemen.  When  a middy,  on  a visit  to  Lima,  eleven 
years  ago,  I formed  a high  opinion  of  the  Peruvian  horseman  as  he 
pranced  through  the  alameda  in  the  evening,  on  a well  trained  animal. 
The  Peruvians,  anxious  to  make  a show  before  strangers,  put  spurs  to 
their  spirited  horses,  ride  at  full  speed,  halt  suddenly,  and  worry  the 
animal  by  turning  short  round  and  jumping  him.  A man  rode  by  me 
at  full  speed,  and  drew  up  just  before  my  mule;  in  doing  so  he  pulled 
rather  hard  on  the  Spanish  bit,  and  the  horse  throwing  up  his  head, 
struck  the  rider  in  the  mouth,  cutting  his  lips  and  displacing  six  of  his 
teeth,  which  saved  him  from  pitching  over  the  horse’s  head. 


36 


AN  AFRICAN  SLAVE. 


The  ladies  and  their  maids  are  fresh-looking,  and  manage  their  horses 
with  ease.  A negress  rode  a man’s  saddle,  and  wore  a flat  straw-hat, 
trimmed  with  fancy  colored  ribband.  The  riding  skirt  is  dispensed  with 
under  the  bloomer  style  ; she  wore  very  long  orange-colored  silk  stock- 
ings, and  on  the  heel  of  a small  and  neat  black  shoe  were  buckled  her 
woman’s  spurs.  Her  horse  had  a rocking  pace,  her  hat  gracefully  placed 
on  one  side  of  her  plaited  wool,  with  a large  cigar  between  white  teeth ; 
she  smoked  her  way  through  the  mountains,  carefully  guarding  her 
smiles,  only  condescending  to  deal  them  out  to  her  mistress’s  most 
deserving  friends.  African  slavery  exists  in  Peru. 

On  arriving  at  the  town  of  Abancay,  the  sub-prefect  was  in  the 
country.  The  governor  kindly  offered  me  a house,  but  as  I wished  to 
make  some  observations  upon  the  stars  during  the  night,  we  passed  on, 
and  encamped  in  the  neighborhood.  At  2 p.  m.,  thermometer,  77°. 
The  mules  were  well  fed  with  lucerne.  They  suffer  and  begin  to  show 
effects  of  the  travel.  The  parrots  are  talking  in  the  bushes  near  our 
tent,  and  a cricket  lives  with  us. 

The  climate  is  delightful  in  this  sugar  valley.  Near  town  is  the  ruin 
of  another  fort.  Flowers,  vines,  and  bashes  cover  it  so  thickly  that  the 
traveller  would  not  suspect  he  was  passing  a masked  fortification.  The 
road  from  it  leads  over  the  mountains  to  the  northeast.  At  11  a.  m., 
temperature  of  a spring,  54°;  air,  55°;  sun,  60°;  cumulus  clouds  and 
northerly  wind.  The  road  seems  to  be  getting  worse,  and  the  over- 
hanging rocks  are  so  low,  we  occasionally  bump  our  heads.  By  way  of 
resting  our  animals,  we  march  on  foot.  A few  hours  travel,  over  a wild 
country,  brings  us  into  another  valley,  where  the  cattle  are  larger  than 
any  we  have  yet  seen.  Passing  an  idle  great  mill,  on  a stream  flowing 
east,  we  came  to  the  hacienda  Lucmoj , a grove  of  willow  trees  shaded 
the  avenue ; the  house  was  of  two  stories,  large  and  neatly  w’hite-washed, 
the  garden  richly  supplied  with  fruits  and  flowers ; the  peach  tree  in 
full  blossom.  The  out-buildings  for  the  Indian  servants  were  in  good 
order  ; the  shelter  for  sheep,  horned  cattle,  horses,  mules,  jackasses,  and 
numbers  of  goats,  showed  unusual  kind  treatment.  The  owner  of  this 
valuable  estate  was  a young  bachelor,  of  intelligence  and  hospitality. 
The  death  of  his  father  gave  him  possession  of  the  property.  He  talked 
with  me  about  his  country,  and  remarked  that  “ the  government  did 
nothing  for  the  people.”  Upon  being  asked,  why  the  people  depended 
upon  the  government,  he  looked  surprised,  and  wanted  to  know 
whether  all  the  improvements  in  North  America  were  not  made  by  the 
government!  The  few  silver  mines  in  the  neighborhood  have  been 
abandoned. 


APURIMAC  BRIDGE. 


37 


After  declining  a polite  invitation  to  remain  some  days,  we  took  a 
short  cut  across  the  corn-field  to  the  town  of  Curahuasi,  a miserable  little 
Indian  place.  The  water  from  the  mountains  passes  down  the  ravine 
to  small  patches  of  sugar-cane.  The  mountains  are  wild ; winding  around 
one  of  them,  we  suddenly  came  in  sight  of  the  long-looked  for  river 
Apuriraac.  Its  waters  foam  as  they  dash  over  its  rocky  bed.  Our  view 
was  cut  off  by  another  turn,  and  leaving  the  surface  of  the  earth,  we 
enter  a tunnel,  cut  into  the  mountain,  which  stands  like  its  strata,  per- 
pendicular, by  the  side  of  the  river.  Sky-light  holes  are  cut  through 
the  rock,  and  as  we  travel  along,  in  alternate  light  and  darkness,  the 
arrieros  shout  at  the  top  of  their  voices  at  the  train.  The  mules  are 
fearful  of  proceeding.  Coming  to  a house,  which  was  open  on  both 
sides,  we  looked  over  the  Apurimac  bridge,  and  then  down  into  the 
river,  a fearful  distance  below.  The  toll  house  is  inhabited  by  two 
women,  a man,  a child,  a dog,  and  two  jugs  of  chicha.  The  ropes  of 
this  suspension  bridge — of  bark,  about  the  size  of  a sloop-of-war’s  hemp 
cable — are  made  fast  to  the  posts  which  support  the  roof  of  the  house. 
It  is  best  for  travellers  not  to  be  too  particular  in  their  examinations, 
how  these  ropes  are  fastened.  A windlass  in  the  middle  of  the  house 
kept  the  ropes  hauled  up  when  they  slack  off.  One  woman,  a good- 
looking  black,  was  seated  by  a large  jar  of  chicha,  which  she  sold  to 
travellers,  with  her  child  on  the  other  sid6 ; she  spun  cotton,  with  a 
smoking  fire  close  by  to  keep  ofl'  the  sand  fiies.  These  little  insects  are 
here  in  swarms.  A white  woman  -was  seated  by  the  windlass,  holding 
her  head  in  her  hands.  I thought  she  had  the  small-pox,  but  the  red 
bumps  on  her  face  were  caused  by  these  annoying  flies.  The  baggage 
was  taken  off  the  mules  as  they  were  brought  through  the  house,  and  one 
by  one  taken  across  the  river,  when  the  arrieros  carried  over  the  baggage 
on  their  own  backs.  When  Rose,  a most  sensible  animal,  saw  the  bridge, 
she  held  down  her  head,  laid  her  ears  back,  switched  her  tail,  and  plainly 
kicked,  out  the  words,  “ I won’t  go  over.”  She  is  generally  indulged  and 
coaxed  ; an  old  mule  was  put  forward,  and  she  behind  to  follow  him.  As 
the  arriero  walked  on  with  the  bridle,  the  toll  man  pursued  the  old  mule 
with  a rope’s  end,  when  it  backed,  kicked  with  both  heels,  pulling  the 
arriero  along.  We  took  shelter  behind  the  windlass,  with  a barometer, 
the  woman  screamed,  picked  up  the  child  with  one  hand  by  the  neck, 
and  the  chicha  jug  by  the  same  extremity,  and  beat  a retreat.  She 
mounted  the  windlass,  and,  in  a towering  passion,  commanded  with  her 
tongue,  telling  the  men  to  secure  the  animal  at  once.  Jose  stood  out 
of  the  way  with  Rose,  for  the  old  mule  had.  charge  of  the  house,  and 
was  getting  warm ; he  succeeded  in  putting  his  hind-legs  in  the  fire, 


38 


CABBAGE  PATCH. 


■when  the  chunks  flew  in  all  directions ; the  mule  became  angry,  as  if 
it  had  been  abused  here  before.  As  soon  as  he  cooled  down  a little,  the 
bridle  was  taken  otf ; a hide  rope  put  over  his  head  and  hitched  round 
his  nose  ; each  fore-leg  was  also  fastened  by  the  end  of  a rope,  and  three 
men  held  the  three  ropes.  The  nose-rope  was  fast  pulled  until  the 
mule’s  neck  was  stretched  out ; one  foot-rope  advanced  one  leg ; the 
other  foot-rope  being  then  pulled,  brought  the  first  foot  down,  getting 
one  pace  ahead ; so  they  gradually  walked  him  over.  Rose  had  been 
looking  on  at  the  effects  of  his  obstinacy,  and  gently  followed.  Two 
dollars  were  paid  for  our  two  mules  and  the  baggage ; the  arriero  paid 
6ix  and  a quarter  cents  apiece  for  his  mules ; this  is  the  custom  of  the 
country.  The  bridge  is  eighty  yards  long  and  six  feet  wide,  distant 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  dark  green  waters.  There  are  six 
floor  ropes,  crossed  by  small  sticks,  lashed  with  strips  of  hide  to  the 
cables.  This  platform  is  hung  to  two  side-cables  by  small  bark  ropes. 
The  river  flows  northwest,  with  a width  of  twenty  yards. 

The  Apurimac  empties  into  the  river  Santa  Ana,  and  is  an  import- 
ant tributary  to  the  Ucayali,  after  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  Juaja. 
We  are  told  the  Apurimac  was  the  western  boundary  of  the  Inca  terri- 
tory during  the  reign  of  the  first  Inca — Manco  Capac.  The  road  from 
this  bridge  to  Banca  post-house  winds  up  the  mountain.  In  some 
places  the  rock  has  been  cut  like  stairs.  The  arrieros  help  up  the  mules 
by  pushing  against  the  lower  part  of  the  baggage  ; we  were  continually 
stopping  to  have  the  loads  fastened  on.  There  are  few  houses  near  the 
post — uninviting  in  appearance — the  people  being  mostly  mestizos. 
A party  of  women  and  men,  all  intoxicated,  seated  by  the  road-side 
drinking  chicha,  politely  invited  us  to  join  them  ; some  looked  very 
thin  and  sickly  ; an  old  woman  was  groaning  on  her  bed  at  the  door ; 
a boy  close  by7  her  had  some  horrible  disease  breaking  out  on  his  face ; 
he  was  deformed  and  looked  like  a person  on  the  edge  of  the  grave,  but 
amused  himself  by  playing  in  the  dust ; his  ghastly  stare  made  us  fear 
he  had  some  infectious  disorder.  On  the  other  side  was  a woman  shav- 
ing a boy’s  head — the  shape  of  a mule’s  more  than  that  of  a human 
being.  An  enclosure,  containing  a patch  of  cabbages,  was  found  near 
a stream  of  cold  water,  which  flowed  rapidly  from  the  snow  peaks  in 
sight,  through  an  expensive  aqueduct,  supported  on  pillars  of  stone, 
neatly  white-washed,  leading  to  a sugar  plantation  some  distance  below 
us,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Apurimac.  We  encamped  here  without 
permission  of  the  owner,  who  was  absent.  While  our  mules  were  feed- 
ing and  we  enjoying  our  supper,  a woman  came  in,  and  in  a hurried  and 
excited  tone  of  voice,  addressed  me  in  Quichua.  Our  difficulty  was 


APURIMAC  BRIDGE  Peru 


BULL  FIGHT. 


39 


with  a Peruvian  widow,  very  good-looking,  but  who  talked  at  a terrible 
rate.  Jose  concealed  himself  behind  a peach-tree  full  of  blossoms,  pre- 
paring tea.  She  said  she  was  poor,  but  had  sons  full  grown,  and  that 
we  had  taken  her  garden  fence  down,  and  turned  eight  mules  among 
her  cabbages.  Jose  told  her,  when  we  arrived,  tired,  after  a long  march, 
she  was  not  at  home  to  give  consent ; her  grounds  had  particularly 
pleased  us,  and  we  had  taken  the  liberty  to  enter  them  for  the  night ; 
in  the  morning  the  fence  should  be  repaired  to  her  satisfaction,  and 
money  paid  for  the  use  of  her  grounds ; the  arrieros’  mules  should  go 
out,  and  ours  be  fastened  and  fed  close  to  the  tent,  which  was  not  among 
the  plants,  but  at  a proper  distance  on  our  side.  She,  smiling,  accepted 
a cup  of  tea,  and  they  spent  the  evening  sociably  together,  in  the  clear 
moonlight,  with  no  sand-flies,  and  a westerly  wind. 

Cabbage,  salad,  onions,  and  garlic  transplanted  here,  do  not  thrive  as 
well  as  on  the  coast,  and  are  less  cared  for  than  the  potato ; except  the 
garlic,  which  is  a favorite  with  the  creoles.  Leguminous  plants  are 
used  in  the  chupe  when  nicely  made. 

August  19. — At  6 30,  a.  m.,  thermometer,  53°;  the  widow’s  fence 
being  repaired,  she  received  pay,  saying  “ God  bless  you,  good-bye.”  As 
we  rode  off  we  caught  Jose  receiving  an  answer  to  his  farewell  smile. 
At  11  30,  thermometer,  70°.  The  country  has  a dry,  uninteresting 
appearance  near  the  town  of  Mallepata,  yet  the  animals  and  vegetables 
seem  to  be  in  larger  proportion.  Flocks  of  parrots  and  pigeons  increase 
in  numbers  ; the  sheep  appear  to  be  smaller  in  size ; horned  cattle  and 
horses  are  plenty  ; the  mountains  are  lower ; sugar  plantings  more  nu- 
merous. Tall  willow  trees  grow  by  the  side  of  a stream  we  cross,  flow- 
ing south,  and  another  running  west,  with  milky  colored  water,  which 
the  arrieros  prevent  their  mules  from  drinking,  saying  it  is  not  good 
for  our  use.  The  people  we  meet  look  like  Chinese  in  the  face,  and 
dress  like  gentlemen  of  the  olden  time — short  breeches,  long  coats,  with 
big  buttons  and  large  pocket-flaps,  in  cloth  of  scarlet  and  of  blue. 

As  we  rode  through  the  Indian  town  of  Limatambo,  our  attention 
was  drawn  to  a crowd  of  people  on  the  plaza,  which  was  barricaded  at 
the  corners,  and  seats  put  all  around.  Flags  of  different  colors  were 
waving  in  the  air ; drums  beating  to  a singular  noise  of  wind  instru- 
ments. We  had  arrived  in  time  to  see  a bull  fight.  The  matadores 
were  dressed  like  the  clowns  of  a circus.  People  were  busy  receiving 
and  arranging  large  ehicha  jars  by  the  walls.  All  were  dressed,  and 
behaved  well.  The  boys  gathered  round  an  enclosure  with  a door 
opening  into  the  plaza.  The  girls  sat  up  straight  on  their  seats,  and 
looked  cheerful  and  pleasant.  Among  them  all,  I only  observed  two 


40 


FISH  AND  HORNED  CATTLE. 


•white  persons,  who  were  of  Spanish  descent,  and  neatly  dressed  in  blue. 
The  town  was  filled  with  people  from  the  surrounding  country.  Musi- 
cians marched  round  the  plaza  in  the  rear  of  six  Indian  matadores,  who 
taking  their  positions,  a strict  silence  followed.  A door  opened,  and 
out  popped  an  immense  condor , fastened  by  the  bill  with  a line,  and  to 
the  other  end  of  which  a large  man  was  attached.  This  surprise 
brought  forth  shouts  and  laughter.  The  bird  flapped  his  large  wingsi 
and  ran  about  trying  to  escape.  The  music  commenced  again,  and  he 
was  taken  out,  when,  during  another  silent  pause,  in  bounced  a young 
wild  bull.  As  the  Indians  shouted,  he  came  to  a stand  in  the  centre, 
as  though  waiting  to  be  heard.  He  soon  began  to  play;  shaking  his 
head,  he  made  a dash,  and  knocked  a man  down.  The  Indian  lay  flat 
upon  the  ground ; the  bull  bellowed  with  rage,  while  he  endeavored  to 
get  his  horns  under  the  body  to  toss  him,  throwing  back  dirt  with  his 
fore-foot.  Not  succeeding,  he  got  down  on  his  knees,  yet'  the  Indian 
was  too  flat  for  him  to  lift.  Others  came  up  and  teased  the  bull  away, 
when  he  charged  at  several,  until  the  animal  was  completely  exhausted. 
Then  he  made  for  the  door,  and  the  people  so  laughed  at  him,  that  he 
came  back  in  a rage ; but  there  were  many  on  the  ground,  and  he  was 
bewildered,  and  could  not  make  up  his  mind  who  among  us  all  he 
could  attack.  He  retired  with  the  music ; others  entered,  till  the  after- 
noon passed  away.  When  we  were  far  on  our  road,  Jose  said  the 
people  were  merrily  dancing  away  the  night.  The  chicha  is  brought 
from  a distance  on  jackasses,  in  large  raw-hide  bags,  well  corked ; two 
bags  are  slung  over  the  sides  of  the  animal. 

In  the  flat  bottom  near  the  town  of  Suriti,  some  small  fish  were 
bottled  from  a snow-water  stream.  During  a heavy  hail  storm  from 
the  southeast,  sheep  flocked  together  in  small  gangs,  and  stood  in  a ring, 
with  heads  out,  like  a drove  of  partridges  going  to  rest.  The  hail-stones 
were  as  large  as  peas.  Thunder  clapped  about  our  ears.  At  mid-day 
thermometer,  65°;  two  hours  after,  amidst  the  hail  storm,  it  fell  to  41°. 

Ducks,  geese,  snipe,  and  a large  black  curlew,  are  found  in  the  valley 
in  great  numbers.  In  the  rainy  season,  a portion  of  the  lands  are 
flooded.  Now  the  cattle  have  good  pasture.  This  land  shows  the 
remains  of  a large  lake,  to  judge  from  appearances.  The  annual  de- 
posits washed  from  the  mountains  decrease  the  depth  of  water  at  the 
end  of  each  rainy  season.  The  land  gradually  rises,  channels  are  formed, 
and  the  water  is  drained  off,  which  in  time  will  leave  the  valley  free  of 
floods.  When  fish  become  extinct,  horned  cattle  and  the  shepherd’s 
herd  occupy  their  places.  The  Indians  are  breaking  up  their  barley 
stubble  with  ploughs.  Population  increases.  The  road  is  paved  as  we 


CUZCO. 


41 


rise  to  the  top  of  a small  gap,  and  pass  under  a large  arch,  which 
supports  a well-built  stone  aqueduct.  We  halted,  and  gazed  with  delight 
at  the  ancient  curiosty  of  the  New  World — the  city  of  Cuzco,  centuries 
ago  the  seat  of  the  Incas.  The  view  is  beautiful.  Close  against  the 
hills,  at  the  west  of  the  valley,  we  see  the  ruins  of  the  Temple  of  the 
Sun  ; Catholic  church  steeples  rise  amidst  smaller  buildings  of  a large 
city.  The  floor  of  the  valley  is  carpeted  with  green,  while  afar  off,  oppo- 
site the  churches,  are  the  white  snow-capped  Andes  in  a clear  blue  sky. 
Suddenly  a heavy  cloud  came  over  the  city  from  the  south,  and  we  arrived 
in  the  plaza  under  a heavy  rain.  Entering  the  government  house,  I 
found  the  prefect  of  the  department  of  Cuzco  very  sick  in  bed  with 
“peste,”  (influenza,)  attended  by  a doctor  and  a priest.  His  aide-de- 
camp  appeared  in  full  uniform,  and  laughingly  told  me  he  was  a lieu- 
tenant in  the  Peruvian  navy,  with  a major’s  commission  in  the  army- 
We  arrived  in  time  for  a good  dinner:  soup,  fish  from  the  Apurimac, 
beef,  poultry,  potatoes,  yuca,  rice,  and  salad,  writh  pine-apples,  chirimoyas, 
plantains,  oranges,  and  granadillas.  The  wine  made  in  the  valley  is 
sweet  and  mild,  superior  to  that  of  Yea;  excellent  coffee  is  grown  on  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Andes.  Jose  hung  his  saddle-wallets  behind  the 
door,  for  fear  the  dogs  might  again  eat  his  bread  and  cheese.  The 
old  man  and  the  mules  need  rest.  We  have  been  forty-five  days 
on  the  road  from  Tarma.  Upon  paying  off  the  arrieros  from  Andahuialas, 
I advised  them  to  be  more  particular  with  their  money ; never  to  spend 
it  in  chicha  for  themselves  before  they  buy  food  for  their  mules,  which 
they  promised  me  should  not  occur  again.  When  leaving,  they  wished 
to  kiss  my  hand — a practice  encouraged  by  the  priests  and  authorities, 
but  particularly  offensive  to  the  North  American,  especially  after  the  poor 
Indian  has  faithfully  performed  his  duties. 

August  23,  1851. — At  8 a.  m.,  thermometer,  57°;  wet  bulb,  55°.  In 
the  plaza  we  find,  for  sale,  maize,  barley,  wheat,  beans,  sweet  potatoes, 
white  potatoes,  chirimoyas,  plantains,  bananas,  oranges,  limes,  papayas, 
watermelons,  granadillas,  and  dried  figs,  in  their  season  ; also  peaches, 
apples,  grapes,  and  cherries.  There  is  a great  display  of  pottery,  well 
made,  and  fancifully  colored.  White  and  printed  cotton  goods  bring 
high  prices ; so  do  coarse  woollen  cloths,  particularly  those  of  blue  and 
scarlet.  The  whole  population  require  thick  clothing  here.  The  In- 
dians consume  the  coarse  goods,  and  fancy  large  dark  bone  buttons. 
The  creoles  generally  wear  broad-cloth.  Everbody  has  a cloak,  worn 
out  against  the  door-post,  or  at  the  corners  of  the  streets,  where  the 
wearer  lounges  in  the  sun.  White  sombreros  or  Texan  hats  are  worn 
during  the  week,  but  on  Sundays  black  beavers.  Scull-caps  are  very 


42 


VOLUNTEERS. 


much  the  fashion,  made  of  wool  and  cotton,  with  ear-flaps,  and  strings 
to  tie  under  the  chin.  The  ladies,  at  church,  wear  black  silk  dresses, 
fancy  silk  shawls  and  stockings  ; bonnets  are  not  yet  worn.  On  Saturday, 
the  shoemakers  enter  the  plaza,  where  their  wives  and  daughters  sell  the 
week’s  work.  It  is  an  amusing  sight  to  see  the  inhabitants  trying  on 
shoes ; gentlemen  take  this  opportunity  to  compliment  the  ladies  upon 
tBeir  small  feet,  which  never  offends. 

The  city  of  Cuzco  has  a scanty  population.  The  department  contains 
346,031  souls.  There  are  very  few  African  slaves  in  the  southern  de- 
partments. 

I found  a very  friendly  disposition  towards  the  expedition,  with  a 
desire  to  aid  me.  The  prefect  offered  twenty  soldiers  as  an  escort  in 
the  low  country,  to  the  east  of  the  Andes.  A number  of  young  men 
volunteered  to  accompany  me.  A meeting  of  the  citizens  was  held  for 
the  purpose  of  forming  a company  to  join  me.  At  their  suggestion,  the 
President  of  Peru  was  applied  to  for  the  payment  of  twenty  thousand 
dollars,  appropriated  by  Congress,  for  the  exploration  of  the  Rio  Madre- 
de-Dios,  supposed  to  be  the  same  with  the  river  Purus,  rising  among  the 
mountains  to  the  eastward  of  Cuzco.  I was  very  much  pleased  also  to 
hear  a spirited  young  ofBcer  had  applied  to  command  the  soldiers. 
From  investigation  made,  I learned  that  the  head  of  the  Rio  Madre-de- 
Dios,  was  some  distance  beyond  the  line  between  civilization  and  the 
savages,  the  Chuncho  Indians. 

September  16. — The  day  for  my  departure  had  arrived,  but  neither 
volunteers  nor  regulars  were  ready.  Richards  was  sick,  and  left  behind 
with  the  baggage.  The  party  was  induced  to  Jose  and  an  Indian  boy, 
who  drove  an  old  horse,  with  a box  of  instruments,  a little  camp  furni- 
ture, and  biscuit  as  his  load.  The  mules  were  in  good  order.  We 
mounted  the  hills  to  the  left  of  the  valley,  taking  the  short  or  twelve 
leagues  road  to  Porcatambo.  The  wind  and  course  were  easterly,  with 
a cold  rain  falling  in  small  drops;  temperature  of  a spring,  60°;  the  air, 
54°.  A bridge  over  the  river  Urabamba  is  constructed  of  brush-wood 
cables.  Our  mules  gave  much  trouble  to  get  them  across.  Jose  was 
sent  some  distance  below  to  wade  the  mule — “Bill” — as  a phthisically 
fat  woman  declared  his  heels  were  too  dangerous  to  her  charge — the 
bridge.  The  river  flows  north,  between  mountains,  ranging  north  and 
south,  with  perpendicular  strata  of  rock  and  red  clay,  and  is  a tributary 
of  the  Santa  Ana.  We  met  droves  of  mules,  loaded  with  bales  of  the 
coca  leaf,  on  their  wTay  to  Cuzco.  At  daylight,  in  the  morning,  as  we 
entered  a deep  gorge,  the  warm  east  breezes,  mixed  with  the  cold  moun- 
tain air,  remind  me  of  spring  time  at  home.  A well-dressed  old  In- 


A PHILADELPHIAN. 


43 


dian,  with  scarlet  vest,  kindly  offered  us  part  of  his  breakfast;  he  was 
taking  it  in  the  doorway  of  his  lonely  little  hut,  among  these  rugged 
mountains.  At  6 a.  m.,  thermometer,  60°,  and  at  6 p.  m.,  66°.  We 
crossed  a well-built  stone  bridge  over  the  Mapacho  river,  which  is  said 
to  flow  north  into  the  Santa  Ana,  but  this  is  doubtful.  The  houses 
of  the  town  of  Porcalambo  are  small,  and  the  population  seven  thou- 
sand ; miserable  looking,  excepting  the  Indians,  who  are  full  of  health 
and  life.  Many  of  them  have  noble  faces,  and  are  willing  to  do  anything 
required  of  them,  except  to  enter  the  low  country  to  the  east.  Like  the 
creoles  of  the  town,  they  have  great  fear  of  the  Chuncho  tribe  of  In- 
dians, who  are  at  war  with  the  Peruvian  government.  The  sub-prefect 
and  his  wife  were  very  kind  ; twenty-five  able-bodied  creoles  volunteered 
to  accompany  me ; I accepted  their  services,  but  the  next  day  the  arriero 
being  alarmed,  deserted  ; the  volunteers  backed  out  to  a man,  when 
Jose  suggested  an  opinion  that  volunteers  did  not  act  so  in  North 
America ; at  the  same  time  he  frankly  acknowledged  he  was  afraid  of  the 
Chunchos. 

Our  road  lay  along  the  river  in  the  narrow  valley,  where  Indians  were 
ploughing  with  oxen  ; peach,  apple,  and  cherry  trees  in  blossom.  The 
Indians  build  their  houses  partly  of  wood ; they  carve  spoons,  bowls, 
plates,  and  baskets,  beautifully,  with  iron  chisels.  At  5 p.  m.,  thermo- 
meter, 68°.  At  Totora  farm,  we  halted  for  the  night,  and  met  a young 
Philadelphian,  named  Charles  Leechler,  engaged  in  collecting  Peruvian 
bark  for  a number  of  years.  At  first,  he  spoke  with  difficulty  in  his 
native  language,  but  with  a true  American  spirit  assured  me  I might 
depend  upon  him  as  a companion.  He  knew  parts  of  the  country  I 
was  directed  to  explore  ; his  services  were  the  more  acceptable.  He 
joined  me. 

Turning  from  the  river  we  ascend  a steep  ridge  of  mountains — the 
eastern  range  at  last.  A heavy  mist  wafts  upwards  as  the  winds  drive 
it  against  the  side  of  the  Andes,  so  that  our  view  is  shortened  to  a few 
hundred  yards.  We  hope  the  curtain  will  rise  that  we  may  view  the 
productions  of  the  tropical  valley  below ; but  the  mist  thickens,  and 
the  day  gets  dark  with  heavy,  heaped-up  black  clouds ; a rain  storm 
follows.  The  grasses  are  thrifty,  and  the  top  of  the  ridge  covered  with 
a thick  sod.  By  barometer  we  stand  eleveu  thousand  one  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  I was  obliged  to  leave  my  box  of  instru- 
ments in  Porcatambo  on  account  of  bad  roads,  and  take  barley  for  the 
mules.  By  law,  the  cargo  of  a mule  descending  the  eastern  slope  of 
the  Andes  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds — one-half  the  usual  load. 
\\  ild  ducks  are  seen  feeding  in  the  small  lakes. 


44 


EASTERN'  SIDE  OF  THE  ANDES. 


September  21,  1851. — At  mid-day,  thermometer,  54°.  Riding  along 
the  ridge  to  the  northward,  the  road  suddenly  turned  east,  and  immedi- 
ately descending,  we  met  with  foliage,  flowers,  and  fruit;  among  them  a 
few  intimates — the  common  blackberry  and  whortleberry ; the  fruit 
large,  but  very  acid.  At  every  step  we  take  the  growth  increases  in 
size,  until,  after  descending  the  mountain-side,  we  are  enclosed  in  forest 
trees.  Our  course  in  winding  down  being  towards  the  centre  of  the 
earth  the  compass  is  of  no  use  to  us.  The  way  is  lined  with  the 
bones  of  mules  and  horses  killed  by  falling  down  these  precipices,  which 
don’t  deserve  to  be  called  roads.  Among  the  limbs  of  the  trees  parrots 
were  chattering  with  monkeys;  trains  of  large  ants  cross  our  path. 
This  insect  is  never  seen  on  the  top  of  the  Andes.  Under  a rude  shed 
by  the  side  of  the  mountain  torrent,  Cherimayo,  we  found  shelter  from 
heavy  rain  in  large  drops.  Thermometer,  61°  at  5 p.  m.  There  is  no 
pasture  for  our  mules ; they  are  confined  to  the  path  by  the  dense  growth 
of  bushes  and  vines,  and  are  kept  near  all  night  by  fencing  the  track  on 
both  sides.  Upon  inquiring  of  Leechler  the  number  of  inhabitants,  he 
informed  me  a few  men  were  gathering  Peruvian  bark  in  the  woods, 
but  it  was  difficult  to  tell  where  they  were,  as  the  cinchona  trees  are 
thinly  scattered  over  the  country.  The  bark  is  represented  as  inferior 
near  the  base  of  the  Andes  here.  The  best  quality  sells  at  twenty -five 
dollars  the  hundred  pounds  in  the  market  of  Cuzco. 

The  regular  rainy  season  will  soon  set  in,  when  all  the  cascarilleros 
(as  the  bark  gatherers  are  called)  carry  the  bark  home.  They  enter 
about  the  commencement  of  the  dry  season,  or  about  the  middle  of 
May ; roam  through  the  wilderness.  When  they  meet  with  trees,  a 
little  house  is  built  for  protection  at  night,  under  which  the  bark  is  kept 
dry.  The  tree  is  felled  by  an  axe,  the  bark  stripped  off,  dried,  made 
into  small  bundles,  and  carried  on  the  backs  of  men — who  are  generally 
mestizos — to  the  nearest  point  at  which  a mule  may  be  brought. 

This  life  is  one  of  great  hardship ; the  workmen  are  often  caught  in 
the  forest  without  a supply  of  provisions.  In  case  of  fever,  however, 
they  are  well  supplied  with  quinine ; but  many  of  them  die.  The 
climate  is  very  changeable ; a cold,  heavy  rain  falls,  alternating  with 
the  rays  of  a tropical  sun.  Leechler  pointed  out  the  cinchona  trees ; 
the  cascarilleros  distinguish  them  at  a distance  by  their  bright-colored 
leaves;  very  smooth  and  light  green,  with  here  and  there  a yellowish 
leaf.  Standing  on  one  side  of  a ravine,  the  men  count  the  value  of  the 
opposite  side,  or  they  climb  to  the  tops  of  the  loftiest  trees  and  survey 
the  country  around.  The  forest  trees  here  are  very  valuable  for  their 
varieties  of  ornamental  woods.  Leechler  undertook  also  to  give  me  an 


DESCENDING  THE  ANDES  TO  THE  EAST  Of  CUlE 


PERUVIAN  PIONEERS. 


45 


idea  of  the  number  of  beautiful  and  valuable  tiger-skins  to  be  found  in 
the  bushes.  I bad  been  thinking  of  the  water-power  dashing  by  us  for 
a saw-mill ; when,  before  going  to  sleep,  be  said,  “Cover  your  bead,  sir, 
at  night ; for  the  serpents  here  are  very  large.”  These  are  productions 
not  always  enumerated  in  a commercial  list. 

At  5 30,  a.  in.,  thermometer,  49°  ; temperature  of  stream,  49°.  Clear 
morning.  The  road  was  much  obstructed  by  bamboo,  and  in  a very  bad 
condition.  We  have  to  halt  and  repair  the  road,  or  cut  away  the  brush- 
wood ; the  wet  branches  keep  us  damp ; now  and  then  a mule  ahead  runs 
into  a bee’s  nest,  which  sets  all  into  activity.  Our  mules  plunge  into  great 
mud-holes,  and  are  fretted  among  the  roots  of  the  trees.  At  mid-day, 
thermometer,  74°,  showing  an  increase  of  20°  since  yesterday  at  this 
time.  The  country  is  rough ; the  hills  completely  enveloped  in  forest 
trees.  The  descent  is  still  great.  Arriving  at  the  house  of  a squatter, 
we  put  up  for  the  night.  Cascarilleros  bring  their  bark  here  to  deposit 
it.  The  place  is  called  Cueba.  Three  families  live  in  bamboo  houses ; 
the  men  and  women  are  engaged  in  clearing  little  patches  of  ground, 
where  they  plant  sugar-cane,  sweet  potatoes,  pumpkins,  peppers,  plant- 
ains, oranges,  potatoes,  watermelons,  cotton,  and  yuca.  Probably  there 
may  be  40  acres  in  all  cleared.  Yuca  serves  for  bread  where  they  have 
no  flour  ; it  is  a species  of  potato  like  the  yam  of  Panama.  It  is  a root 
shaped  like  a beet,  from  a small  tree,  which  grows  to  the  height  of  a 
man,  with  a trunk  as  large  as  his  thumb,  having  crow-foot-shaped  leaves 
in  a bunch  at  the  top  of  the  stalk.  It  is  planted  from  cuttings  in  rows 
apart,  that  the  plant  may  be  kept  free  of  weeds.  The  yuca  is  valuable 
and  delicious,  either  botled  or  roasted.  The  people  are  very  fond  of  it, 
and  boast  about  the  enormous  size  of  some  of  them.  I never  saw  one 
more  than  18  inches  long,  and  of  ten  or  twelve  pounds  weight;  gen- 
erally smaller ; though  seriously  told  by  persons  at  a distance  from  their 
habitation  that  in  the  Montana  one  is  enough  for  a mule  load.  Yuca 
is  at  once  liked  as  a vegetable  by  most  strangers. 

Clearing  the  land  is  a tiresome  business ; trees  cut  down  at  the  end 
of  the  wet  season,  when  they  are  full  of  sap,  burn  with  great  difficulty. 
The  brushwood  and  thick  undergrowth  is  troublesome,  though  the  soil 
is  very  productive,  after  being  well  cleared.  Our  mules  found  a blue 
grass,  which  springs  up  upon  exposing  the  soil  to  the  sun,  and  keeps 
cattle  in  good  order.  The  people  are  mostly  Spanish  creoles,  and  seem 
to  lead  a miserable  life.  Including  cascarilleros,  there  are  about  twenty- 
five  people  who  may  be  said  to  belong  to  the  houses.  There  are  no 
others  in  the  neighborhood.  They  are  glad  to  see  travellers  to  hear 
the  news,  for  they  are  shut  out  from  the  xyorld.  This  place  might  be 


46 


COCA  PLANTATION. 


reached  by  a less  precipitous  way,  crossing  the  ridge  nearer  Porcatambo, 
and  entering  the  montana  further  south.  Such  is  the  report  of  the 
cascarilleros,  who  are  the  best  authorities  with  whom  we  are  willing  to 
consult. 

At  night,  I was  politely  given  the  centre  of  the  floor  of  one  of  the 
houses  for  my  bed.  Three  men  slept  on  one  side  of  me,  and  the  very 
pretty  woman  of  the  house  on  the  other,  with  a sucking  baby  between 
us,  which  seemed  to  have  a most  extraordinary  appetite  for  milk,  and 
kept  a constant  snuffling  and  pulling  like  a young  pup.  The  houses  are 
built  with  bamboo,  placed  about  four  inches  apart,  that  air  may  pass. 
After  we  all  got  to  sleep,  something  made  a noise  near  our  heads,  and  in 
the  morning  tracks  of  a large  tiger  indicated  his  desire  for  a baby.  The 
men  thought  he  must  be  a monster  by  the  foot  prints ; and  pointed  to 
where  he  had  his  paw  through  the  opening,  but  his  arm  was  not  long 
enough.  They  are  seldom  so  daring,  and  he  must  have  been  very 
hungry. 

Gradually  descending,  we  crossed  the  Tono  river.  Water,  63°; 
air,  74°,  at  9 30,  a.  m.  The  hills  are  getting  smaller ; the  road  in 
some  places  more  level,  until  we  suddenly  come  to  a cleared  parnpa, 
covered  with  a rich  pasture,  on  which  are  grazing  a drove  of  mules. 
Four  houses  are  built  close  to  one  another,  and  near  them  a large 
patch  of  pine-apples.  One  Indian  woman  was  at  home ; she  was 
Quichua.  We  afterwards  arrived  at  San  Miguel  farm,  where  a number 
of  houses  are  built  in  a hollow  square,  with  a little  wooden  church,  and 
fine  orange  trees  in  the  centre,  under  the  shade  of  which  I was  embraced 
by  Padre  Julian  13ovo  de  Revello,  a Franciscan  missionary,  honorary 
member  of  the  Agricultural  Society  in  Santiago  de  Chili. 

Monday , Sejjtember  22. — At  3 30,  thermometer,  81°.  We  are  now 
on  the  eastern  frontier  settlement,  where  one  hundred  men  are  engaged 
cultivating  the  coca  plant.  The  seed  is  planted  in  rows  like  maize.  In 
two  years  the  bush,  five  or  six  feet  high,  is  full  grown,  bearing  bright 
green  leaves,  two  inches  long,  with  white  blossoms,  and  scarlet  berries. 
The  women  and  boys  are  now  gathering  the  ripe  leaves,  while  the  men 
are  clearing  the  fields  of  weeds.  The  gathering  takes  place  three  times 
a year,  in  cotton  bags.  The  leaf  is  spread  out  in  the  sun  on  mats  and 
dried.  In  wet  weather  they  are  spread  under  cover,  and  kept  perfectly 
dry,  otherwise  the  quality  is  injured,  and  the  market  price  very  much 
reduced.  The  bushes  produce  from  forty  to  seventy  years,  when  a new 
planting  becomes  necessary.  The  leaves  are  put  up  in  cotton  cloth 
bales  of  seventy-five  pounds  each,  and  sent  to  Cuzco,  where  it  sells  for 
fifteen  dollars  per  bale.  The  Indians  masticate  the  leaf,  and  sometimes 


'> ■» Jii  KAIlViNVld  V0O3 


TERRITORY  OF  THE  CHUNCHO  SAVAGES. 


47 


drink  it  as  tea.  There  is  a constant  demand  for  it.  Those  who  work  in 
the  mines  are  inveterate  chewers.  On  long  journeys,  or  while  undergoing 
fatigue  of  any  kind,  it  supplies  the  place  of  the  tobacco  leaf.  It  has 
a soothing  effect.  Slacked  lime  or  ashes  from  certain  roots  are  used  by 
some  of  the  old  chewers  to  give  it  a finer  flavor.  The  plant  can  only 
be  raised  in  a moist  climate.  It  is  never  found  in  the  deep  valleys  of 
the  Andes.  It  offers  the  most  important  inland  trade  in  the  department 
of  Cuzco,  and  is  the  inducement  for  settlers  to  venture  to  the  base  of  the 
Andes.  Though  the  tropical  productions  can  be  raised,  they  are  seldom 
cultivated  to  great  extent.  Coffee,  sugar-cane,  cotton,  rice,  chocolate, 
tobacco,  limes,  and  lemons,  are  to  be  had.  The  padre  pays  attention  to 
experimental  farming  and  cattle  raising;  he  has  a little  drove,  a few  cows 
brought  from  the  tops  of  the  Andes ; also  ducks,  pigeons,  and  chickens, 
which  he  feeds  upon  corn  cultivated  by  his  own  hands.  His  upland 
rice  is  fine,  without  flooding.  The  padre  is  a perfect  representative  of 
Robinson  Crusoe;  though  he  has  no  goats,  he  has  four  dogs.  An  old 
Santa  Cruz  soldier  acts  as  his  man  Friday.  In  his  little  hut  he  has  a 
few  books  and  two  old  hats.  He  wears  one  when  he  works  on  his 
fann,  the  other  an  old  hen  lays  an  egg  in  every  day.  He  seems  to  be 
happy,  but  said  he  wanted  very  much  to  go  home  to  Italy,  by  the  way 
of  the  Rio  Madre-de-Dios  and  the  Amazon,  for  he  thought  if  he  could 
find  a road  to  the  Atlantic  by  which  his  countrymen  might  come  up,  he 
would  make  a fortune. 

I had  arrived  at  the  end  of  the  road  for  mules.  The  only  way  to 
shorten  the  distance  between  us  and  the  Atlantic  was  to  dismount  and 
cut  a way  through  the  forest  on  foot.  The  undergrowth  is  so  thick, 
that  it  is  difficult  to  see  where  the  tigers  and  other  wild  animals  get 
through. 

Jose  was  left  in  charge  of  the  mules.  With  a barometer  and  poncho 
slung  to  my  back,  revolver  in  belt,  long  knife  in  hand,  I pushed  through 
the  woods,  accompanied  by  the  padre,  Leechler,  and  four  Indians ; the 
padre  whistled  up  his  dogs.  After  a most  difficult  struggle,  twelve  hours 
brought  us  to  the  bank  of  the  Cosnipata  river,  m the  territory  of  the 
Chuncho  savages.  The  stream  is  very  swift,  with  a rocky  bed,  forty 
yards  wide ; the  water  of  greenish  color.  This  stream  takes  its  rise  to 
the  south,  in  the  mountains  of  Carabava,  where  the  people  are  washing 
for  gold.  The  day’s  march  was  through  a level  country,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  two  small  hills.  Leechler  shot  two  wild  turkeys,  and  a fine 
fish,  which  helped  out  boiled  rice  and  parched  corn  for  supper.  We 
had  been  very  much  bitten  by  ants  and  stung  by  bees.  The  right  arms 
were  tired  of  cutting  a way  with  the  machetes.  According  to  our 


48 


LAUNCHED  A RAFT  AT  FOOT  OF  ANDES. 


reckoning,  we  have  travelled  nine  miles;  a bush  house  was  constructed; 
our  beds,  the  bare  ground  ; the  dogs  lay  by  us  ; they  had  ranged  about 
in  all  directions  during  the  day,  and  were  well  tired.  The  padre  called 
one  of  them  Paititi , after  a large  town  of  the  Chunchos,  in  the  wilder- 
ness to  the  northeast  of  us;  another  Alerto,  (vigilant;)  a third  Cabezon, 
(big  head ;)  and  the  fourth,  Valedor,  (protector.)  Paititi  was  a middle- 
sized,  short-tailed,  chocolate-colored  dog,  the  bravest  and  most  active. 
The  padre  kindly  presented  him  to  me.  One  of  the  Indians  was  taken 
sick;  I administered  three  anti-bilious  pills,  which  cured  him  after  a 
sleep.  Cutting  enough  balsa  wood  early  in  the  morning,  the  logs  were 
fastened  together,  and  the  first  North  American-built  raft  launched  upon 
this  tributary  of  the  Amazon.  I embarked  with  Leechler  and  one  old 
Indian  for  the  opposite  shore.  There  were  falls  above  and  below  us ; 
the  current  swift ; we  poled  part  of  the  way,  but  soon  found  the  river 
too  deep  for  that  process.  We  landed  on  a rocky  little  island,  after 
being  nearly  carried  over  the  falls  ; Leechler  lost  the  balsa  on  his  return 
for  the  padre;  the  current  was  too  swift  for  him,  and  he  had  to  swim  for 
life,  while  our  bark  was  swiftly  carried  down  stream,  and  wrecked  against 
the  rocks.  At  1 p.  m.,  thermometer  in  the  sun,  100°;  temperature  of 
the  river  water,  ’70°.  In  the  evening,  Leechler  had  been  working  with 
the  padre  and  the  Indians,  cutting  more  timber.  He  swam  over,  and 
spent  the  night  on  the  island  with  me,  in  preference  to  sleeping  in  the 
woods  ; we  lay  down  upon  the  rocks,  under  a heavy  rain,  with  loud  claps 
of  thunder,  which  echoed  up  the  Andes.  At  midnight,  the  old  Indian 
called  us  from  our  bed  of  water ; the  river  was  rising ; the  night  was 
dark,  and  lain  poured  down.  A match  was  lit,  when  it  was  discovered 
we  could  not  escape ; we  saw  the  rushing  waters  between  us  and  the 
shore  ; a sudden  rise  of  three  feet  would  carry  us  off.  Leecher  assured 
me  we  could  not  gain  the  shore  by  swimming.  The  old  Indian  said  “I 
was  a bad  man  for  bringing  him  there,  when  he  could  not  swim.”  A 
mark  was  placed  by  the  edge  of  the  water,  and  we  seated  ourselves  very 
uncomfortably  to  await  our  fate.  The  roaring  of  the  waters  was  terrible. 
Leechler  looking  at  the  mark,  finds  our  island  very  much  reduced  in 
size  by  the  flood.  The  old  Indian  hears  the  dogs  bark,  and  we  think 
the  Chunchos  are  attacking  the  padre  on  the  main  land;  I blamed  my- 
self for  bringing  these  people  so  far.  Should  the  stream  continue  to  rise 
at  its  present  rate,  we  must  be  lost ; suddenly,  the  old  Indian  looking 
up,  turned  to  me  with  brightening  eyes,  pointed  to  the  southeast,  and 
said  in  Quichua,  “ day-break.”  This  was  great  relief,  particularly  as  I 
saw  the  Indian  smile;  it  was  expressive,  natural,  and  knowing.  As  the 
day-light  came,  the  storm  cleared  off,  and  we  survey  our  prison.  The 


RESCUE  OF  THE  OLD  INDIAN. 


49 


■waters  had  turned  muddy,  the  drift-wood  came  dancing  by  us,  great 
logs  rolled  over  as  they  floated  down  ; the  wild  Toucan,  with  its  large 
beak,  screamed  as  it  flew  over  us  to  its  nest ; the  fish  seemed  to  rejoice  at 
the  flood,  jumping  up  in  the  air  as  though  making  signs  for  the  river  to 
rise ; while  the  good  old  padre,  dressed  in  his  snuff-colored  robes,  motioned 
to  us  the  waters  were  subsiding.  The  waves  made  by  the  rapid  motion 
of  the  water  in  mid-channel  were  quite  as  high  as  our  heads,  and  the 
island  much  reduced  in  size.  The  water  runs  off  very  soon  after  the 
storm  passes  away,  and  we  gained  the  opposite  mainland.  Leechler 
lost  a second  balsa  in  trying  to  cross  the  stream  to  the  island  again  for 
the  Indian,  and  another  night  was  spent  with  the  party  divided.  Our 
provisions  were  getting  short  A small  bamboo  balsa  was  now  con- 
structed, the  barometer,  pistols,  and  clothing  put  upon  it  My  provisions 
were  left  with  the  old  Indian,  and  he  was  told  to  remain  there  until  wa 
returned.  He  said,  “ if  he  was  left  alone,  the  Chunchos  would  murder 
him,  or  the  tigers  would  devour  him  at  night ; if  we  left  him  he  would 
jump  into  the  river but  he  was  again  directed  to  remain  where  he  was 
while  we  sought  help,  to  take  care  of  his  provisions,  and  he  would  soon 
be  with  his  friends.  He  told  Leechler  he  would  obey,  but  “he  must  first 
bring  over  his  coca,”  which  was  on  the  opposite  side. 

, With  Leechler  on  one  side  of  the  bamboo  raft  and  I on  the  other, 
we  jumped  into  the  stream,  and  after  hard  work,  swimming,  we  gained 
the  padre  in  time  to  save  our  raft  from  passing  over  the  falls.  In  the 
evening  we  were  at  San  Miguel  farm,  after  three  days’  hard  work,  and 
two  nights  without  sleep.  Resting  ourselves  we  found  great  difficulty 
in  getting  persons  to  go  with  us  after  the  old  Indian.  The  padre 
made  a spirited  speech  to  them,  which  had  the  desired  effect.  In  the 
evening  we  encamped  at  the  junction  of  the  Tono  and  Cosnipata  rivers.. 
To  my  great  joy,  the  old  Indian  came  down  opposite  to  us,  after  being 
called  by  Leechler.  In  the  morning  early,  we  felled  a tree  across  the 
Tono , where  it  cuts  through  a mass  of  rocks,  and  descending  along  the 
banks  of  that  stream  for  some  distance,  we  came  to  a smooth  place  in 
the  river.  Another  raft  was  built  which  rescued  the  old  Indian,  but  was 
also  lost,  and  we  saved  the  men  by  felling  a large  tree  on  the  rocks  to 
which  they  clung.  The  old  Indian  had  eaten  all  he  had  the  night  we 
left  him,  and  was  now  very  hungry  ; he  was  delighted  to  get  his  coca, 
and  handed  me  the  cigars  I gave  him  to  smoke.  He  amused  the  other 
Indians,  telling  them  how  the  white  man  had  treated  him.  After  fol- 
lowing the  Tono  all  day,  we  came  to  the  river  Piftipifti,  a stream  as 
large  as  the  Tono , with  an  average  width  of  forty  yards.  I saw  at  once 
we  could  get  no  further,  but  it  was  a satisfaction  to  behold  these  two 
4 


50 


RIO  MADRE-DE-DIOS. 


rivers,  the  Tono  and  Piftipifti,  join  and  form  the  head  of  the  river  called 
by  the  Qnichua  Indians  Amaru  Mayu , (serpent-river,)  which  Padre 
Eevello  had  not  long  since  named  “Rio  Mad  re-de-Dios,”  for  the  reason 
the  Chunchos  had  killed  a number  of  Creoles  and  Quichua  Indians, 
and  after  destroying  their  little  church,  had  thrown  the  catholic  image 
into  a tributary  stream,  whence  it  had  floated  down,  and  was  found  on  a 
rock  in  the  centre  of  Amaru-Mayu. 

This  stream  is  very  swift,  about  seventy  yards  wide,  and  not  navigable 
at  the  point  I saw  it,  which  is  in  latitude  12°  32'  south,  longitude  7 0°  26' 
west  of  Greenwich,  and  by  barometrical  measurement  1,377  feet  above 
the  Pacific  ocean;  showing  a descent  from  the  first  flower  on  the  side  of 
the  ridge  in  sight  of  9,723  feet;  small  hills  intercept  our  view  of  the 
river  after  it  turns.  Leechler  informs  me  that  the  cascarilleros,  from  pro- 
minent places  on  this  side  of  the  Andes,  have  seen  Indians  crossing  the 
“Madre  de-Dios”  in  canoes,  among  the  islands,  a short  distance  below 
ns;  and  that,  the  river  is  very  winding  in  its  course  through  a level 
country.  The  padre  has  seen  a stream  called  “ Marcapata”  to  the  west 
of  us,  flowing  northwest,  which  probably  falls  into  the  Madre-de  Dios 
below. 

The  country  is  a beautiful  one  ; well  watered,  and  from  its  general  ap- 
pearance adapted  for  cultivation,  though  wild  and  unpopulated  as  far 
as  we  have  seen,  except  by  monkeys  of  different  species,  who  are  very 
busy  in  the  evening  cutting  into  the  bamboo  stalks  for  the  water  therein, 
which  they  take  as  their  tea. 

We  feel  great  anxiety  to  visit  the  island  in  a Chuncho  canoe ; to  make 
friends  under  the  shade  of  a plantain  orchard ; to  contract  at  the  door 
of  these  Indians  for  a passage  to  the  Amazon,  and  go  home  by  this 
route.  Besides,  1 wished  to  see  the  effect  produced  on  these  wild  men 
by  a present,  from  the  padre,  of  angels,  pictures  drawn  from  a long  tin 
box  under  his  arm ; but  it  is  impracticable,  and  we  lay  down  by  the  head 
of  the  Madre-de-Dios,  to  sleep  till  morning,  with  thirty -eight  leagues  by 
the  road  to  travel  back  to  Cuzco. 

The  ants  troubled  us.  Before  the  break  of  day,  we  all  rose  suddenly 
from  our  sandy  bed;  the  dogs  skulking  in  with  tails  between  their  legs; 
all  more  or  less  uncomfortably  aroused  by  the  growling  of  two  large 
tigers  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Pinipini.  A light  breeze  was  passing 
from  us  to  them;  they  snufled  a breakfast,  while  the  Indians  silently 
hung  their  heads.  I was  looking  upon  the  water,  expecting  to  see  them 
plunge  in  and  swim  towards  us.  Leechler  examined  my  double-barrelled 
gun,  and  laughingly  called  out  in  English,  “thank  you  kindly,  the  rains 
on  the  mountains  during  the  night  have  flooded  the  Pinipini,  and  we, 
therefore,  cannot  breakfast  together  this  morning.” 


co 

C 

O 

uJ 

o 


o 

X 


Llfh  of  P S Dnval  S'  r.o  P)i  il  .irl 


CHUNCHO  SAVAGES. 


51 


After  our  breakfast  of  boiled  rice,  we  turned,  and  on  our  way  saw  the 
tracks  of  five  Cliunchos  on  the  sands.  Their  feet  are  very  small,  and 
they  walk  with  toes  much  turned  in.  They  hunt  in  small  parties  of 
from  five  to  seven,  always  accompanied  by  a woman,  who  carries  their 
fish  and  game,  cooks  and  does  all  the  hard  work,  while  they  stroll  along 
with  their  bows  and  arrows.  They  are  very  bitter  against  the  Peruvi- 
ans, and  give  them  no  quarters ; waylay  them  on  the  roads  to  Porco- 
tambo,  and  turn  up  their  noses  at  all  offers  of  friendship.  We  are  on 
their  hunting  grounds.  Here  they  find  large  fish,  wild  turkeys,  and  a 
species  of  pheasant,  the  size  of  guinea  fowls.  It  is  said  they  worship 
brave  animals  and  reptiles,  such  as  tigers  and  poisonous  snakes ; are 
generally  smaller  men  and  women  than  the  Indians  on  the  Andes.  The 
inner  corners  of  their  eyes  are  turned  down ; they  walk  with  their  heads 
hanging ; the  expression  of  face  is  morose,  without  the  least  sign  of  a 
smile.  Such  are  the  reports  of  the  men  with  me. 

We  halted  at  Chapemayo,  which  joins  San  Miguel,  to  see  the  old 
Indian  safely  in  the  hands  of  his  wife,  who  had  been  told  by  the  Indians, 
when  we  returned  without  him,  that  he  was  murdered  by  the  Chunchos. 
The  meeting  was  a very  modest  one. 

Jose  was  delighted  ; the  old  man  had  expressed  great  fears  that  he 
would  never  see  us  again.  The  mules  were  in  good  pasture,  but  very 
much  bitten  by  vampire  bats,  which  strike  them  at  night  in  the  skin  of 
the  neck,  and  they  bleed  so  much  as  to  weaken  them.  The  padre  was 
very  sad  at  the  result  of  our  reconnoissance.  He  Was  kind  enough  to 
give  me  an  extract  from  a meteorological  table  he  is  in  the  habit  of 
keeping.  Three  crops  of  corn  may  be  raised  here  in  one  year,  yet  the 
people  do  not  descend  the  Andes  to  settle  in  this  productive  country. 

The  farmer  labors  under  great  disadvantage.  He  never  leaves  his 
house  in  the  morning  to  cultivate  the  field  without  fire  arms.  They  are 
at  the  expense  of  keeping  a watch  constantly  stationed,  lest  they  be 
surprised  by  the  Chunchos.  People  are  afraid  to  pass  from  farm  to 
farm  alone.  Some  have  been  murdered ; others  died  from  sickness 
brought  on  by  fatigue,  a hot  sun  by  day,  and  loss  of  sleep  at  night. 
The  coca  planter  generally  leaves  his  wife  and  children  behind  him  in 
Porcotambo  when  he  enters  upon  his  ordinary  duties  on  this  montana. 

I am  told  there  are  some  cleared  lands  a short  distance  to  the  east  of 
these  four  farms  which  have  been  abandoned,  or  rather  nearly  all  were 
murdered  by  the  Chunchos  some  years  ago,  and  others  have  not  ventured 
there  since. 

Upon  gaining  the  top  of  the  Andes,  we  found  the  barometer  tube  had 
been  broken  on  the  way,  A hole  was  cut  iu  the  top  of  our  coflee  pot, 


52 


VIEW  OF  THE  LOWLANDS. 


large  enough  to  insert  a thermometer,  and  the  height  of  the  mountains 
determined  by  boiling  water. 

The  day  is  pleasant,  and  we  take  our  last  blow  and  rest ; the  clouds 
lift,  and  while  seated  on  the  smooth  top  of  a peak  of  the  Andes,  we  see 
afar  off  to  the  east  the  magnificent  view  we  have  been  anxiously  expect- 
ing. The  rich  lowlands  are  looked  down  upon  from  a height  of  over 
nine  thousand  feet.  It  is  like  looking  upon  the  ocean;  those  regular 
ridges  trending  northwest  and  southeast,  decreasing  in  height  as  £hey 
increase  in  distance,  seem  like  the  waves  of  the  sea  rolling  towards  the 
mountains.  The  whole  surface  is  covered  with  a beautiful  growth  of 
forest  trees,  whose  foliage  appears  of  a deep-blue  color.  Looking  at  the 
compass,  following  the  direction  of  the  northeast  point,  we  see  interrup- 
tions in  the  ridges,  where  the  Madre-de-Dios  cuts  her  way  through  the 
rollers  towards  the  Atlantic  ocean,  striking  them  at  right-angles.  Upon 
looking  at  our  map  on  the  east,  the  river  Beni  flows  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion into  the  Madeira ; and  again  on  the  west,  as  our  previous  remarks 
go  to  show,  the  Santa  Ana  empties  into  the  Ucayali.  We  know  that 
a great  river  pours  from  its  four  mouths  a large  quantity  of  water  into 
the  Amazon  in  latitude  4°  south,  and  longitude  61°  west,  where  it  is 
called  the  river  Purus.  The  geographical  position  of  the  Madre-de-Dios 
forces  us  to  believe  it  to  be  the  same  as  the  Purus.  This  is  a matter  of 
importance.  If  it  is  navigable  for  steamboats  to  where  we  now  see,  it 
forms  the  natural  highway  to  South  Peru.  All  the  silver  and  gold  of 
Peru  are  not  to  compare  with  the  undeveloped  commercial  resources  of 
that  beautiful  garden.  The  wealth,  strength,  and  greatness  of  a nation 
depends  upon  a well-cultivated  and  productive  soil  and  people,  aided  by 
commerce  and  manufactures.  Veins  of  gold  or  silver  run  out;  without 
other  industry,  poverty  follows,  particularly  where  the  people  have  been 
principally  schooled  in  poetry  and  Latin  grammar,  as  found  to  be  the 
case  on  some  parts  of  our  route. 

Leechler  tells  me  he  has  not  heard  his  own  language  spoken  for  ten 
years ; that  he  would  like  much  to  go  with  me ; “but,”  said  he,  “I  have 
a wife  and  two  fine  boys  in  Porcotambo.”  He  has  been  of  so  much 
service  and  stood  by  me  in  my  troubles,  that  I feel  inclined  to  sit  still 
and  talk  with  him  in  plain  English.  The  cascarilleros  have  seen  islands 
in  the  bed  of  the  Madre-de-Dios.  During  the  rainy  season  the  moun- 
tain torrents  wash  away  the  soil  about  the  roots  of  large  trees ; a tree 
falls  into  the  stream,  and  is  carried  away  by  the  waters ; that  tree  is 
borne  rapidly  down  until  it  reaches  the  level  country,  where  the  current 
of  the  larger  river  runs  slow ; there  it  turns  up-side  down,  the  branches 
sink,  and  the  roots  stick  out  of  the  water ; the  branches  evidently  hold 


AMAZON  ROUTE. 


53 


to  the  bottom  of  the  river,  while  earth  and  sand  are  heaped  upon  them  ; 
drift-wood  and  vegetable  matter  catch  in  the  roots  or  lodge  against  the 
trunk.  This  is  work  by  the  laws  of  the  Almighty.  A little  island  is 
thus  built ; it  grows  larger  and  larger  every  year ; as  it  increases  in 
size,  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  it  occupies  space  which  before  was 
covered  with  water.  The  same  body  of  water  must  pass ; as  it  does  so, 
it  cuts  a deeper  channel,  while  it  also  caves  away  the  banks,  whose  earth 
and  growth  are  carried  farther  down  by  the  freshets.  One  channel 
grows  larger  than  the  other ; the  smaller  one  probably  fills  up,  and  then 
our  island  is  lost  by  its  attachment  to  the  main  land.  Should  the  river 
be  large  enough  to  float  a vessel,  and  there  be  no  falls  between  it  and 
the  sea,  that  island  is  the  head  of  navigation.  Suppose  it  is  in  latitude 
12°  south,  longitude  70°  west,  of  Greenwich,  the  distance  from  the 
island  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  Purus  is  735  miles;  course  N.  E.  \ E. 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Purus  down  the  Amazon  to  the  sea,  a straight  line 
is 806  miles;  course  E.  N. E.f-  E.  735  + 806  = 1541,  which  distance  a 
steamer  can  run  in  six  days.  Triple  this  time  for  turnings  and  stoppages 
for  fuel,  we  have  eighteen  days  then  from  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  up 
to  this  island. 

A ship,  loaded  with  woollen  and  cotton  goods,  and  with  hardware 
ploughs,  and  farming  utensils — of  which  there  are  none,  except  some 
miserable  old  muskets — with  corn,  rice,  buckwheat,  hemp,  tobacco,  all 
kinds  of  flower  and  garden  seeds,  plants,  vines,  and  shoes,  would  require 
twenty-five  days  to  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon,  eighteen  days  to  the 
island,  and  ten  days  to  Cuzco : in  all  53  days.  On  the  route  travelled 
at  the  present  day,  by  Cape  Horn  to  Yslay,  on  the  Pacific — the  nearest 
seaport  to  Cuzco — the  passage  would  occupy  105  days,  and  15  days 
from  there  to  Cuzco:  in  all  120  days.  T’mewith  merchants  is  money. 

But  the  great  river  must  be  explored  from  its  mouth  up.  When  we 
swam  across  the  Cosnipata,  with  our  bamboo  balsa,  I lost  my  straw  hat 
in  the  middle  of  the  stream.  Should  it  be  found  in  the  mouth  of  the 
Purus,  I shall  hereafter  maintain  that  it  is  fully  entitled  to  the  honor  of 
having  decided  that  the  Cosnipata  is  a tributary  of  the  Purus.  The 
India-rubber  trade  is  increasing  every  year.  It  is  now  the  most  import- 
ant export  from  the  Amazon,  and  is  destined  to  be  of  much  greater 
value.  Few  trees  are  found  near  us. 

The  mules  being  well  rested  and  fed  on  the  mountain  grasses,  we 
overtook  a red-haired,  thin,  sallow-complexioned  man,  slowly  walking 
after  an  old  horse,  loaded  with  Peruvian  bark.  This  was  a cascarillero 
returning  from  the  labors  of  the  season  in  the  forest.  He  had  been  sick, 
and  went  homeward  with  a slim  reward.  He  presented  a striking  contrast 


54 


ARRIVAL  AT  CUZCO. 


to  his  wife,  who  met  him  with  the  horse.  She  was  a smiling  negress, 
very  black,  with  beautifully-white  teeth,  who  had  been  a slave,  but 
bought  her  freedom  when  her  former  master  died.  He  left  her  money, 
which  the  cascarillero  married  and  spent  for  her. 

We  rode  into  Porcotambo  late  by  moonlight.  An  Indian  girl  took 
me  into  the  sub-prefect’s  room,  where  he  and  his  wife  were  in  bed.  I 
drew  back  surprised,  but  not  in  time  to  escape  being  seen.  He  and  his 
lady  called  out  to  come  in.  I apologized  through  the  door ; this  was 
not  considered  necessary,  they  both  insisted  upon  my  entering.  As 
they  sat  up  in  bed,  I,  in  a seat  close  by,  answered  their  many  questions, 
while  the  servants  prepared  supper  and  bed  for  me  in  another  room. 
The  amount  of  fancy-work  about  a lady’s  nightcap  was  becoming  to  dark 
hair  and  eyes.  Women,  I find,  are  much  interested  in  steamboat  navi- 
gation and  the  productions  of  other  countries.  This  town  is  remarkable 
for  beautiful  sehoras. 

At  the  end  of  the  sixth  day,  from  the  head  of  the  Madre-de-Dios,  we 
arrived  in  Cuzco,  after  an  absence  of  twenty-one  days.  Richards  was 
still  much  reduced,  but  gaining  health.  The  prefect  expressed  his 
regrets  at  not  being  authorized  to  send  troops  with  me,  and  asked  the 
favor  of  a written  account  of  my  visit  to  the  east,  in  behalf  of  the 
Peruvian  government. 


COLLEGE  OF  SCIENCE  AND  ARTS CUZCO. 


55 


CHAPTER  III. 

College  of  sciences  and  arts  at  Cuzco — Students — Library — Popularity  of 
Fenimore  Cooper’s  works — Convents — Cock-pits — Procession — Condition  of 
the  aborigines  anterior  to  the  Incas — Manco  Capac  and  his  wife — Their  lan- 
guage— Antiquities— Inca’s  fortress — Worship  of  the  planetary  bodies — Suspi- 
cion of  intercourse  between  ancient  civilized  Asia  and  South  Peru — Temperv 
ture  of  bull’s  blood — Reception  of  the  prefect’s  family — Sham  fight  among  the 
Quicbua  Indians — Barley  and  corn  crops — Trade — Loss  of  Paititi — Thermal 
springs — Hospitality  of  a cura — Lampa — Gold  mines  of  Carabaya — Lak« 
Titicaca — Appearance  of  the  Indians — Puuo — Military — Niggardly  soil. 

The  city  of  Cuzco  has  a population  of  about  20,000,  with  a greater 
proportion  of  creoles  than  any  place  between  it  and  Lima.  There  is 
but  one  newspaper  published — an  official  called  El  Triunfo  del  Pueblo, 
(the  Triumph  of  the  People.) 

In  the  museum  are  many  ancient  curiosities:  mummies,  mining  tool% 
earthen,  stone,  and  metal  ware,  war-clubs,  hatchets,  and  Indian  costumes. 
In  a small  library  hangs  a translation,  into  Spanish,  of  the  declaration 
of  independence  of  the  United  States.  Among  the  few  readers  met 
there,  questions  were  often  asked  of  Fenimore  Cooper,  who  seems  to  be 
better  known  in  South  America  than  any  other  North  American.  I 
received  much  kindness  from  those  of  Spanish  descent  who  had  read 
Mr.  Cooper’s  works.  The  distinct  pronunciation  of  his  name  shows  the 
deep  impression  made  upon  their  mind  by  that  distinguished  author. 

In  the  college  of  sciences  and  arts  were  three  hundred  boys.  The 
president  seemed  anxious  to  give  a favorable  impression  of  the  institution. 
In  the  picture  gallery,  some  of  the  most  choice  drawings,  executed  by 
the  students  from  time  to  time,  were  preserved.  There  seemed  to  be 
natural  talent  displayed,  but  a want  of  good  instruction.  Mathematics, 
philosophy,  Latin  grammar,  and  drawing,  are  the  principal  studies. 
While  walking  on  the  balcony  among  the  boys,  wrapped  up  in  broad- 
cloth cloaks  and  caps,  we  observed  a youngster  deeply  interested  in  a 
veiT  greasy-looking  little  book.  He  seemed  to  be  the  only  one  disposed 
to  study.  He  said,  “ Poetry  is  ray  lesson  for  to-day.”  He  was  asked 
which  he  preferred  to  be,  a Byron  or  a farmer?  The  boys  around  us 
laughed,  when  he  spoke  out  quickly — “a  Byron,  sir.”  On  the  wall  of 
a dressing-room  hung  in  line  three  hundred  Napoleon-fashioned  cocked 
hats,  which  the  president  informed  me  were  worn  by  the  boys  in  proces- 


56 


CONVENTS  AND  COCK-PITS. 


sion  when  they  went  to  pay  their  respects  to  the  prefect.  Peru  has  a 
population  of  not  quite  two  million^,  more  than  half  of  which  are  friendly 
aborigines.  On  the  standing  army  list  there  are  six  “Grandes  Mariscales,” 
seven  “Jenerales  de  Division,”  with  twenty  “Jenerales  de  Brigada,”  and 
junior  grades  in  large  proportion. 

The  people  of  the  country  complain  of  a constant  revolutionary  spirit 
in  all  places,  and  there  is  no  advancement  in  “science  and  the  arts.”  It 
is  said  that  when  a creole  mother  in  this  country  holds  her  baby  between 
her  hands  to  tickle  and  kiss  it,  she  addresses  a boy  as  “My  dear  little 
Bishop;”  or,  “My  President.”  She  objects  to  allow  its  head  to  be  wet 
with  water,  for  fear  of  destroying  its  memory ; and  prevents  it  from 
sleeping  in  the  day-time,  lest  it  may  catch  a sore  throat.  The  birthday 
of  a boy  is  a cause  for  rejoicing.  The  father  is  congratulated,  and  the 
mother  praised  for  her  patriotism.  The  proportion  of  females  through 
this  country  is  great.  The  women  are  well  developed,  healthy,  active, 
and  gay.  Generally  speaking,  the  men  are  not  so. 

Every  Sunday  evening  there  is  a cock-fight  in  Cuzco,  at  fifty  cents 
entrance.  The  pit  is  built  of  mason  work,  with  two  entrances,  and  seats, 
one  behind  the  other,  all  round.  Gaffs,  three  inches  long,  sharp,  and 
like  a dragoon’s  sabre,  are  fastened  to  the  cock’s  spurs ; the  fight  is  very 
soon  decided.  A good  deal  of  money  is  bet  on  these  occasions,  at  which 
the  college-boys  take  part ; ladies  are  not  admitted,  though  they  bet 
upon  their  favorites  as  they  are  carried  by  to  the  pit.  The  commander 
of  police  presides  in  uniform,  with  a small  table  before  him,  covered  by 
a green  cloth,  on  which  he  makes  his  bets,  and  piles  his  silver  and  gold, 
if  he  wins.  He  rings  a small  bell  when  he  is  ready  for  the  fight  to 
commence,  and  decides  the  battle.  There  are  few  game  chickens  in 
this  part  of  the  country,  but  the  barn-door  fowl,  aided  by  gaffs,  are 
freely  used  up. 

A visit  to  the  churches  and  convents  of  Cuzco  is  interesting ; many 
of  them  are  immense,  built  from  the  hewn  stone  from  the  ruined  Inca 
city.  The  ornaments  are  rich  and  costly ; the  carving  of  ornamental 
woods  from  the  m on  tana  are  well  executed.  We  were  surprised  to  find 
such  a display  of  oil  paintings,  which  were  used  to  induce  the  Indians 
to  change  their  worship  to  that  of  the  Catholic.  In  the  convent  of  San 
Francisco,  one  represented  a graveyard  somewhere  between  Heaven  and 
hell ; the  dead  are  seen  rising ; winged  angels  come  down  from  among 
the  clouds,  and  bore  off  the  good  people ; while  the  devil’s  understrap- 
pers grasped  the  bad,  and  tossed  them  over  a precipice  into  an  active 
fire  far  below.  This  painting  produces  a lasting  effect  upon  the  minds 
of  the  poor  Indians.  A major  in  the  Peruvian  army  remarked  “he  saw 


RELIGIOUS  PROCESSION. 


57 


no  soldiers  in  the  fire;"  at  which  a polite  fat  padre  laughed,  as  if  he  did 
not  consider  the  subject  in  a serious  light.  In  one  comer  of  a filthy 
room,  near  a closet,  a robed  priest  was  standing  with  a small  book  in  one 
hand,  and  a large  loaf  of  bread  in  the  other.  He  looked  ashamed  as  he 
saluted  us  with  his  mouth  full.  Among  the  flowers  cultivated  in  the 
area  were  a number  of  priests  apparently  in  deep  study,  while  one  of 
them  was  mending  a hole  in  his  breeches. 

After  a long  continued  drought,  the  sugar  plants,  maize,  and  potatoe 
crops  suffer  for  want  of  rain.  On  Sunday,  August  31st,  the  prefect  in- 
vited us  to  walk  in  procession  ; a company  of  soldiers,  and  band  of  music 
in  front;  the  college  boys,  with  cocked  hats,  and  their  happy-looking  pre- 
sident, were  ready;  the  prefect  appeared  in  full  uniform.  We  marched 
to  the  cathedral,  which,  with  the  main  plaza,  were  filled  with  people. 
On  entering,  no  seats  had  been  provided,  and  the  prefect  spoke  sharply 
to  one  of  the  priests.  Three  images,  of  full  size,  were  raised  on  plat- 
forms on  the  heads  of  men  ; the  music  commenced,  and  we  followed 
through  the  city.  The  Indians,  who  crowded  from  the  surrounding 
country,  seemed  very  much  interested,  but  it  was  wood-work  to  some  of 
ns  ; with  hats  in  hand  we  pushed  through. 

We  halted  in  a narrow  street,  to  allow  another  procession  to  pass, 
similar  to  ours,  except  that  it  had  a more  interesting  mixture  of  pretty 
women.  An  image,  borne  on  the  heads  of  men,  was  called  “ El  Patriarca 
San  Jose,”  followed  by  a number  of  priests  and  women  singing.  After 
them  a female  figure,  richly  mounted  with  silver,  dressed  in  a costly 
brown  silk  dress,  trimmed  with  gold,  and  spangled  with  silver.  Her 
black  hair  was  hanging  gracefully  at  length  over  her  shoulders,  and  in 
her  arms  she  held  an  infant.  We  followed  “ Nuestra  Seflora  de  Belen" 
to  the  cathedral.  The  bells  announced  her  arrival,  and  the  population 
knelt  in  prayer. 

Nuestra  Seiiora  was  carried  before  the  altar;  those  under  the  front 
part  of  the  platform  knelt  and  rose  three  times,  while  the  men  behind 
stood  still,  which  made  her  appear  as  though  bowing.  When  the  In- 
dians shouted  and  cried,  the  women  became  much  excited,  and  their  little 
children  shed  tears  and  screamed  with  all  their  might ; even  the  Indian 
men  wept ; a perfect  shower  of  tears  was  produced.  Their  prayer  to 
God,  through  Nuestra  Seiiora  de  Belen  was  to  send  rain  for  their  perish- 
ing crops  in  the  country  around. 

Soon  after  the  conquest,  the  fishermen  of  the  bay  of  Callao  picked  up 
a box,  and  upon  opening  it  they  found  Nuestra  Seiiora  de  Belen  and 
her  child,  with  a letter,  wherein  it  was  written,  she  was  intended  for 
the  “ City  of  the  Kings ;”  Lima  was  Pizarro’s  name  for  the  city  of  the 


58 


ABORIGINES. 


kings,  and  she  was  at  once  claimed  by  that  city ; but  Cuzco  was  the 
aboriginal  city  of  the  kings,  and  a dispute  arose  Those  of  Cuzco  de- 
clared, that  as  she  came  in  a box,  which  might  be  carried  across  the 
Andes  on  the  back  of  an  ass,  she  was  not  sent  to  Lima.  This  argument 
gained  the  lady,  and  she  travelled  over  the  mountains. 

The  Indians,  and  many  of  the  creoles,  believe,  when  they  have  too 
much  or  too  little  rain  for  their  crops,  and  take  her  through  the  streets 
praying,  God  will  listen,  and  send  water,  as  required,  for  their  fields. 
When  they  are  visited  by  disease,  as  at  present,  and  the  influenza  is  fatal 
to  their  children,  the  Belen  lady  is  implored. 

The  Convent  of  San  Domingo  is  built  over  the  ruins  of  the  Temple 
of  the  Sun,  Moon,  and  Stars,  which  were  worshipped  together  by  the 
old  Peruvians — a worship  objected  to  in  moral  laws.  We  are  told  that 
the  sun  of  the  temple  was  made  of  a mass  of  silver  and  gold ; so  were 
the  moon  and  the  stars.  When  the  Spaniards  captured  Cuzco  the 
treasure  of  this  temple  was  squandered  at  the  gambling  tables. 

Before  the  days  of  the  Incas,  the  Indians  of  these  regions  are  thought 
to  have  lived  in  holes  in  the  ground,  in  crevices,  or  under  overhanging 
masses  of  rocks,  and  in  caves,  like  wild  bears,  biscachas,  or  eagles. 
They  ate  grass  and  roots  of  the  earth  like  beasts ; roamed  among  each 
other  as  animals  of  the  desert.  Like  the  Chunclios,  they  reverenced 
brave  animals,  large  birds,  and  serpents.  There  were  many  tribes,  with 
different  languages,  and  different  worships  of  birds  or  beasts.  In  war 
they  flayed  their  prisoners,  ate  their  flesh,  drank  their  blood,  made  drum- 
heads of  their  skins,  and  sticks  of  their  bones.  They  went  about  in 
flocks,  robbing  each  other  like  wolves,  the  weaker  giving  way  to  the 
strong.  It  has  been  said  they  fattened  the  children  of  their  enemy  like 
lambs  or  calves,  and  ate  them. 

A man  and  a woman  of  some  different  race  suddenly  appeared  among 
them ; they  knew  not  from  whence  they  came ; the  opinion  was  that 
they  were  from  out  of  the  great  Lake  Titicaca.  The  man  and  his  sister 
told  the  Indians  they  had  been  sent  by  their  father,  the  sun,  to  draw 
them  from  their  savage  life,  and  to  instruct  them  how  they  might  live 
like  men,  and  not  like  beasts  ; to  show  them  how  to  cultivate  the  land 
and  raise  food ; to  teach  them  to  make  clothing  and  to  wear  it.  The 
Indians  were  pleased,  and  ran  off  telling  their  neighbors,  who  gathered 
together  about  the  man,  while  his  sister  and  wife  taught  the  women 
how  to  spin  the  wool  of  animals  and  to  make  clothing. 

The  language  taught  them  was  called  Quichua;  they  were  also  in- 
structed to  worship  the  sun,  moon,  and  stars ; to  build  towns  on  the 
western  end  of  the  valley ; to  rise  at  the  break  of  day,  that  they  might 


MANCO  CAPAC INCA  I. 


59 


behold  their  Deity  as  he  appeared  in  the  east.  They  called  the  man 
Manco  Capac  and  Inca ; they  loved  and  worshipped  him  as  a descendant 
of  the  sun.  The  woman  they  called  Coya  Manra. 

Manco  Capac  reigned  many  years,  during  which  time  he  and  his  wife 
taught  the  Indians  from  the  Apurimac  river  on  the  west  to  the  Por- 
cotambo  river  on  the  east;  south  from  Cuzco  to  Lake  Titicaca,  and 
north  to  where  the  Apurimac  empties  into  the  Santa  Ana. 

The  moon  was  worshipped  as  the  sister  and  wife  of  the  sun,  and 
believed  to  be  the  mother  of  Manco  Capac ; the  evening  star,  V enus, 
was  considered  the  attendant  of  the  sun.  They  respected  the  cluster  of 
“seven  stars,”  because  they  were  called  maids  to  the  mother  moon. 

They  had  certain  forms  of  worship  and  prayers  which  were  made 
through  lightning,  thunder,  and  the  rainbow. 

Manco  Capac  was  kind  and  gentle  in  disposition,  and  the  Indians 
loved  and  obeyed  him.  He  laid  the  foundation  of  great  changes  in  the 
manners  of  the  aborigines,  founded  a church  and  a nation. 

I was  permitted  to  make  sketches  of  some  curious  things,  the  works 
of  the  ancient  Peruvians,  from  collections  preserved  in  private  families, 
who  value  their  little  museums  very  highly ; they  seldom  give  away  a 
specimen,  but  are  anxious  to  receive  anything  in  addition. 


Fig.  1. 


Figure  1 represents  mason-work. 


60 


ANTIQUITIES, 


Fig.  2. 


Figure  2,  a drinking  cup,  the  handle  representing  the  head  of  a 
llama,  of  stone,  and  rudely  carved. 


ANTIQUITIES. 


61 


Fig.  4.  Fig.  5.  Fig.  6. 


Figure  4,  a stone  portrait  of  one  of  the  priests  of  the  Temple  of 
the  Sun ; very  smooth.  Attached  by  a string  in  the  hole  on  the  head, 
to  be  worn  as  an  ornament  round  the  neck. 


Figure  5,  a smooth  green  and  blue  stone. 

Figure  6,  a stone  likeness  of  the  head  and  arms  of  a monkey  eating 
his  breakfast. 


Fig.  7. 


Figs.  8. 


Figure  7,  a common  garden  grub*worm,  of  stone. 
Figures  8,  dice,  of  stone. 


62 


ANTIQUITIES. 


Fig. 


9. 


Figure  9,  a clay  water-ladle,  painted  red  and  worked  very  smooth. 


ANTIQUITIES 


63 


Fig.  10. 


It  is  said  that 
such  idols  were 
Dot  permitted 
to  be  worship- 
ped by  the  In- 
cas. They  are  of 
granite , found 
among  the  An- 
des— not  from 
the  Cordilleras. 
In  Peru  and  Bo- 
livia, the  Cor- 
dilleras are  not 
interrupted  by 
water  - courses, 
but  are  the  di- 
viding lines  be- 
tween the  At- 
lantic and  the 
Pacific  water- 
sheds; while  the 
Andes  chain  is 
cut  in  many 
places  by  the 
streams  flow- 
ing to  the  east- 
ward. 


Fig.  10. 


Fig.  11. 


64 


ANTIQUITIES. 


Fig.  12. 


Figure  12,  an  earthen  jar,  seems  to  be  more  modern,  though  not 
used  by  the  Indians  of  the  present  day.  It  is  of  brick-color,  painted 
black  round  the  neck. 


Fig.  13. 


Figure  13,  a green-colored  stone  likeness,  worn  suspended  on  the 
breast. 


ANTIQUITIES. 


85 


F'G.  14. 


Figure  14,  a metal  armlet, 
made  of  copper  and  tin,  so 
thin  as  to  spring  open  when 
drawn  over  the  hand.  The 
fastening  is  a small  string 
through  the  holes.  Bracelets 
were  favorite  ornaments : they 
are  seldom  worn  in  the  present 
day. 


Fig.  15. 


Fig.  17. 


Figures  15,  16,  and  17  are  of  the  same  metal;  the  latter  the  best 
representation  of  a llama  we  could  find;  the  two  former  are  in  the 
usual  posture  of  mummies. 

5 


66 


ANTIQUITIES. 


Fig.  18. 


Figure  18,  a drinking  cup,  is  of  earthenware,  and  the  most  fanciful. 


Fig.  19. 


Figures  19  and  20  are  of  stone.  The  general  contour  of  figure  20 
reminds  us  of  the  alpaca;  while  the  handle  of  the  saucer  of  figure  19 
represents  an  animal  unknown  to  us. 


ANTIQUITIES. 


67 


Fig.  21.  Fig.  22. 


Figures  21  and  22  are  of  stone.  Figure  22  represents  an  animal 
[unknown  to  us. 


Fig.  23. 


Figure  23,  a stone,  shaped  like  a lemon,  with  serpents  carved 
thereon,  including  a vein  of  gold  in  the  stone,  the  production  of  the 
montana  of  the  Madre-de-Dios, 


68 


ANTIQUITIES. 


Figs.  24. 


Figures  24  represent  paintings  on  the  outside  of  an  earthen  jar,  red 
and  black. 


Fig.  25. 


Fig.  26. 


Figure  25,  of  stone,  may  be  a caricature  of  a bearded  Spaniard  in 
his  smoking  cap. 

Figure  26,  of  clay,  is  the  head  of  an  animal  unknown. 


ANTIQUITIES. 


69 


Fio.  27.  Fse.  29. 


Figure  27,  a stone  blade  of  a knife,  sharp  on  both  edges. 
Figure  28,  a drinking  cup,  with  figures  of  animals. 
Figure  29,  a copper  chisel,  flat  on  one  side. 


70 


ANTIQUITIES. 


Fig.  30. 


Figure  30,  a green -colored  stone  hatchet,  shaped  like  those  found  in 
North  America. 


Figs.  31. 


Figures  31,  ear  ornaments.  Their  weight  stretches  the  ear.  They 
are  of  copper  and  tin,  inlaid  with  silver  and  gold,  and  were  hung  to 
the  ear  by  the  string.  From  their  appearance,  not  owned  by  the 
common  Indians. 


ANTIQUITIES. 


71 


Fig.  32. 


Figure  32,  a bone  wedding-ring,  made  as  though  the  bride  and 
groom  both  wore  it  during  the  eeremony. 


Fig.  33. 


Figure  33,  a hatchet,  made  of  copper,  hardened  with  tin.  This  was 
found  in  the  grave  of  an  Indian  warrior,  near  Cuzco,  and  is  the  best 
made  tool  we  found.  Iron  was  not  in  use,  and  their  tools  were  made 
of  this  mixed  metal.  They  probably  cut  stone  with  it.  Dozens  of 
crowbars  or  chisels,  3 feet  long  and  f by  ^ an  inch  thick,  were  found 
in  the  silver  mines. 


72 


ANTIQUITIES 


Fig.  34. 


Figure  34  is  a hatchet,  of  the  same  alloy  as  preceding  figure. 


Figure  35,  metal  head  of  a war-club.  Some  are  also  found  of  stoae. 


ANT1QUITIBS 


73 


Fig.  36. 


Figure  36,  a metal  war-hatchet;  was  taken  from  a grave  near  the 
small  town  of  Surati. 


74 


ANTIQUITIES. 


Fig.  38. 


Figure  38,  a gold  ornament  worn  on  the  forehead;  the  button,  rep- 
resenting the  sun. 


On  a high  hill  on  the  north  side  of  the  city  are  remains  of  the  walls 
of  the  ancient  fortress  Sacsahuamam.  The  largest  sized  stone  in  the 
drawing  measured  twenty-two  feet  at  the  base,  and  twelve  and  a half 
feet  perpendicularly,  independent  of  its  depth  in  the  ground  and  wall. 
The  Indian  boy  standing  near  was  full  grown.  We  were  at  a loss  to 
know  how  the  ancient  Peruvians  could  handle  such  heavy  masses,  and 
transport  them  half  a mile  over  ground  nearly  level ; but  some  recent 
discoveries  by  Mr.  Layard,  in  Asia,  show  no  similar  acts  by  human 
powers  and  mechanical  skill. 

The  area  occupied  by  this  fortress  may  be  about  twelve  acres.  No 


NORTH  View  Or  THE  REMAINS  Or  THE  INCA'S  FORT  S A C S A II  II  A M A M Cll'/.CO 


REIGN  OF  THE  INCAS. 


75 


fortification  in  North  America  would  more  safely  defy  the  effects  of 
round  shot  and  shell,  though  built  by  people  ignorant  of  such  war 
agents.  The  angles  and  ground  plan  are  systematically  laid  down ; the 
stairways,  by  which  the  fort  was  entered,  are  built  so  as  to  be  easily 
shut  up  by  large  stones  from  the  inside,  making  the  door  quite  as  secure 
from  the  outside  as  the  wall  itself.  The  walls  encircle  the  top  of  the 
hill,  the  peak  of  which  stands  considerably  above  the  ruins.  On  the 
north  side  of  the  ruins,  from  which  this  view  was  taken,  there  are  many 
seats  and  flat  places  carved  in  the  rocks,  whence  it  is  supposed  people 
witnessed  plays  on  the  flats,  which  have  the  appearance  of  parade- 
grounds.  Among  these  rocks  there  is  a hole,  raid  to  be  the  entrance  to 
a subterraneous  passage  under  the  hill  to  the  Temple  of  the  Sun,  a 
distance  of  half  a mile.  I entered  it,  but  could  not  proceed  far,  and 
came  away  with  doubts.  Subterraneous  roads,  made  by  the  order  of 
the  Incas,  are  believed  by  some  to  exist  between  Tarma  and  Cuzco. 

In  the  small  stream  flowing  by  this  fortress,  and  through  the  city  of 
Cuzco,  I washed  some  sand  in  a pan,  and  found  grains  of  gold.  The 
Indians  now  seek  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  rather  than  gold-washing, 
and  find  it  more  profitable.  During  the  reign  of  the  Incas,  the  precious 
metals  were  solely  used  by  them  as  ornaments  and  utensils,  and  not  for 
a currency,  as  now. 

From  time  to  time,  during  the  reign  of  the  Incas,  the  neighboring 
tribes  of  Indians  were  brought  under  their  control,  either  by  persuasive 
means  or  by  force  of  arms,  until  their  territory  extended  from  the  Pacific 
coast  on  the  west  to  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes,  and  from  Quito, 
near  the  equator  on  the  north,  into  Chili,  near  latitude  40°  south.  Some 
of  these  Incas  were  great  warriors,  who  marched  to  the  frontiers  with  a 
determination  to  extend  their  laws  and  religion  over  other  territory, 
until  their  possessions  became  so  great,  that  the  twelfth  Inca  decided  to 
deviate  from  the  constitution  established  by  the  first,  and  gave  the 
southern  portion  of  the  kingdom  to  his  eldest,  and  the  northern  portion 
to  another  son.  These  brothers  quarrelled.  Francisco  Fizarro  took  the 
conqueror  prisoner  and  had  him  hung,  which  completed  the  fall  of  the 
Peruvian  empire,  the  civilization  of  which  yet  astonishes  the  Spaniards. 

I met  an  old  woman  in  Cuzco  who  claimed  to  be  a descendant  of  the 
Incas  family.  She  was  unable  to  trace  the  account  of  descent  farther 
back  than  her  own  mother.  Old  ladies  tell  their  children  wonderful 
stories  in  this  part  of  the  world.  Those  who  claim  to  be  of  the  same 
blood  as  the  Incas,  assume  a haughty  manner  towards  their  neighbors, 
which  becomes  the  Indian  as  little  as  other  people.  In  the  ruins  of 
forts,  roads,  and  canals,  the  art  of  spinning,  weaving,  and  dyeing, 


76 


WORSHIP  OP  PLANETARY  BODIES. 


curiously-carved  stone  tools  and  metal  castings,  are  the  true  remnants 
of  the  Incas.  The  people  seemed  to  fancy  the  hewing  of  stone  and 
working  in  metals,  but  we  find  no  traces  of  wood-work. 

The  Spaniards  brought  with  them  to  Peru  horses  and  mares,  homed 
cattle,  asses,  goats,  hogs,  sheep,  tame  cats,  coins,  and  dogs  of  good  breed. 
They  planted  the  grape  vine  in  the  valley  of  Cuzco,  made  slaves  of  the 
Peruvians,  who  joined  to  hurl  their  oppressors  in  their  turn  from  the 
territory  of  Peru. 

A traveller  told  me  that  in  1825  he  could  read  the  news  of  the  war 
in  the  faces  of  the  Indians  as  he  met  them  on  the  roads.  If  a battle 
had  been  decided  in  favor  of  the  republicans,  the  Indians  looked  up  and 
were  cheerful ; if  in  favor  of  the  others,  they  hung  their  heads  and  were 
sad.  The  histories  of  hard  fought  battles  between  their  forefathers  and 
the  Spaniards,  and  the  overthrow  of  their  religion  and  government,  had 
been  handed  down  from  generation  to  generation.  Various  changes  of 
manners  and  customs  had  interfered  with  their  happiness.  The  natural 
man  never  forgets  an  injury,  and  it  seems  characteristic  of  the  Indians, 
as  well  as  of  some  others,  to  hate  their  enemies  and  to  love  their  friends. 
These  people  enjoy  the  recollection  of  the  example  of  Manco  Capac  to 
this  day.  He  seems  to  have  shaped  his  conduct  to  the  disposition  of 
the  nation. 

The  worship  of  the  planetary  bodies,  “ the  sun,  moon,  and  stars,”  is 
some  evidence  of  astronomical  information,  which  gave  its  votaries 
power  over  others,  ignorant  of  the  natural  laws  which  regulate  the 
movements  and  periodic  changes  of  these  heavenly  bodies;  and  thus 
gradually  enforced  a perverted  reverence  for  them  by  the  multitude. 

The  Hebrew  moral  law  specially  objects  to  such  worship,  which  ap- 
pears to  have  been  previously  known,  and,  therefore , was  forbidden  by 
Moses. 

During  preceding  revolutions , which  are  referred  to  in  the  scriptures, 
ships  employed  in  commerce  between  India  and  Egypt  may  have  been 
driven  from  the  Persian  gulf  or  Red  sea,  and  have  reached  this  continent. 

A remnant,  one  man  and  one  woman,  well  educated  and  instructed 
in  the  arts  of  agriculture,  mechanics,  and  domestic  industry,  would  have 
effected  all  the  improvements  shown  by  the  education  of  an  intelligent 
race,  as  the  Peruvians  appear  to  have  been. 

Their  customs,  manners,  and  enterprises,  assimilate  so  much  with 
those  of  remote  antiquity,  in  Asia  and  Africa,  as  scarcely  to  be  dis- 
tinguished from  them. 

Modern  discoveries  in  Egypt  and  Assyria  exhibit  the  same  bridges 
and  idols,  the  same  tools,  weapons  and  utensils  of  clay  or  stone,  and  of 
mixed  metals — copper  hardened  by  tin. 


« 


CIVILIZATION  OF  PERU. 


77 


What  things  are  dissimilar  may  have  been  the  result  of  intention  and 
reform.  The  victory  of  Alexander  the  Great  over  the  Tyrians,  who  were 
active,  enterprising,  and  intelligent  navigators,  and  the  description  of 
explorations  to  the  Arabian  sea,  made  by  ships  built  upon  the  Indus, 
authorize  a suspicion  of  very  ancient  intercourse  by  some  competent 
means  between  civilized  Asia  and  America,  at  the  south,  as  well  as  by 
northern  navigators  upon  our  eastern  coasts. 

In  evidence  of  ancient  art  and  contrivance,  when  Alexander  besieged 
Tyre,  more  than  three  hundred  years  before  our  era,  he  employed  “ chain 
cables"  for  his  ships,  after  the  Tyrian  divers  had  cut  the  rope  cables  and 
set  his  vessels  adrift.* 

The  hitherto  recognised  dates  are  not  considered  competent  to  com- 
pute the  period  of  man’s  existence  on  this  earth.  The  original  esti- 
mate being  possibly  founded  upon  a different  basis  of  calculation,  similar 
to  the  comparison  alluded  to  by  a sacred  writer:  “A  thousand  years  in 
Thy  sight  are  as  yesterday  when  it  is  passed.” 

The  existence  of  a strange  pair  of  foreigners,  who  arrived  from  some 
unknown  country,  to  introduce  agriculture,  arts,  manufactures,  and  sys- 
tematic morals,  among  the  native  tribes  of  the  Andes,  does  not  appear 
to  be  a traditional  fiction,  but  a confirmed  fact,  in  the  history  of  the 
aborigines  of  Peru. 

The  grateful  recollection  of  the  present  race  of  Indians,  for  the  kind- 
ness, gentleness,  and  humanity  of  the  Incas  rulers  towards  their  ances- 
tors, are  often  compared  disadvantageously  with  the  sufferings  and  pri- 
vations they  think  they  experienced  from  subsequent  governments,  now 
modified,  by  peculiar  changes. 

The  writer  cannot  doubt  that  Manco  Capac  and  his  wife  were  reali- 
ties. Long  voyages,  attributed  to  a commercial  people  of  very  ancient 
date,  may  authorize  an  attempt  to  show  the  possibility  of  the  discovery 
and  improvement  of  the  aboriginal  people,  distributed  upon  this  portion 
of  our  great  continent,  by  some  race  versed  in  arts  and  knowledge, 
descended  from  the  Asiatic  family,  to  whom  primitive  advances  in  civi- 
lization have  been  most  anciently  attributed. 

The  Phoenicians  are  described  to  have  made  voyages  from  their  colo- 
nial settlements  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  to  obtain  amber 
from  the  Baltic,  and  tin  from  the  British  islands. 

These  Phoenicians,  originally  passing  by  the  waters,  or  along  the 
shores  of  the  Euphrates,  from  the  Persian  gulf  to  the  Mediterranean 


Williams’s  edition  of  the  Life  and  Actions  of  Alexander  the  Great. 


78 


ANTIQUITY  OF  ANCIENT  DAYS. 


sea,  are  stated  by  tradition  to  have  introduced  agriculture,  manufactures, 
arts,  letters,  architecture,  and  civilization,  to  the  aborigines  of  Europe 
and  of  Africa,  in  “the  antiquity  of  ancient  days.” 

The  colonies  of  Sidan  and  Tyre  in  Asia,  of  Carthage  in  Africa,  and 
some  on  the  European  shores,  in  Greece,  Italy,  and  Spain,  have  been 
attributed  to  these  remote  people.  They  are  described  in  our  venerated 
records  as  the  merchants,  navigators,  and  wise  men  of  their  distant  age. 

To  pass  the  stormy  Bay  of  Biscay,  and  encounter  the  boisterous  seas 
of  the  Northern  ocean,  these  explorers  must  have  possessed  vessels  with 
officers  and  equipments,  experienced  pilots,  and  competent  seamen,  to 
authorize  suspicion  of  enterprise,  intelligence,  and  powers  quite  sufficient 
to  lead  them  “ to  compass  the  earth.” 

The  three  years’  voyages  described  in  the  Scriptures  to  have  been 
undertaken  by  Tyrian  seamen,  and  the  valuable  productions  enumerated 
as  portions  of  their  cargoes,  illustrate  the  mercantile  character  of  that 
age,  confirmed  by  curious  modern  discoveries  in  Egypt  and  Assyria. 

In  the  hazardous  voyages  of  the  Phoenicians,  in  search  of  tin,  we 
discover  some  proof  of  its  importance  in  the  arts  and  manufactures  of 
antiquity,  more  than  equivalent  to  its  uses  at  the  present  day. 

The  comparative  absence  of  steel  and  iron  tools  among  the  relics  of 
ancient  nations,  may  be  explained  by  the  fact  that  they  possessed  a sub- 
stitute in  the  easy  combination  of  tin  with  copper,  which,  by  accident  or 
their  accurate  acquaintance  with  these  metals,  enabled  them  to  produce 
results  in  the  arts  which  still  astonish  us. 

The  immense  rocks  removed,  ornamented,  and  elevated  upon  ancient 
temples  and  pyramids,  or  carved  in  their  natural  positions  for  habita- 
tions of  the  living  and  cemeteries  for  the  dead,  have  long  believed  to 
have  been  wrought  without  the  employment  of  iron  tools.  Bronze  was 
certainly  fabricated  at  very  distant  periods  for  the  same  uses  as  steel 
and  iron  now. 

Layard  describes  ornaments,  weapons,  tools,  and  armor  of  the  ancient 
Assyrians  of  copper  “hardened,  as  in  Egypt,  by  an  alloy  of  tin.” 

The  natives  of  Peru  executed  some  significant  works  in  porphyry  and 
granite,  hewn  by  similar  implements  of  bronze  or  copper,  tempered  by 
a small  alloy  of  tin. 

By  means  of  such  tools,  they  wrought  hard  veins  of  silver,  and  are 
supposed  to  have  engraved  the  emerald. 

M.  de  Humboldt  carried  with  him  to  Europe  a chisel,  from  a silver 
mine  opened  by  the  Indians,  not  far  from  Cuzco,  which,  upon  analysis, 
was  found  to  contain  ninety-four  parts  of  copper,  united  with  .06  of  tin. 

The  writer  has  been  enabled  to  procure  the  partial  examination  of  a 


AFFINITIES  OF  MANUFACTURES. 


79 


bronze  crowbar,  or  long-bandied  chisel,  from  an  ancient  mine  of  silver 
in  Peru.  An  exact  analysis  has  been  delayed,  but  of  from  ten  to  twelve 
per  cent,  of  tin  are  understood  to  be  combined  with  the  copper. 

This  alloy  is  employed  for  casting  of  bell-metal  and  cannon,  for  the 
touch-hole  of  muskets,  mirrors,  or  specula,  for  astronomical  observations, 
musical  instruments,  and  formerly  for  coats  of  impenetrable  armor. 

These  affinities  in  the  manufactures  of  the  Egyptians,  Assyrians,  and 
ancient  Peruvians,  offer  some  suggestions  of  very  remote  intercommuni- 
cation between  portions  of  civilized  Asia  and  the  natives  of  the  Andes, 
further  elucidated  by  reference  to  other  similarities  in  their  mode  of  agri- 
culture by  irrigation,  and  the  employment  of  manures ; the  construc- 
tion and  suspension  of  bridges ; their  causeways  and  aqueducts ; the 
working  of  mines,  knitting,  netting,  spinning,  weaving,  and  dyeing;  their 
roads,  posts,  inns,  and  grainaries,  arms  and  armor. 

The  order,  system,  and  policy  of  their  morals;  the  arrangement  of 
public  records;  their  duties;  the  worship  of  the  sun,  the  moon,  the 
planets,  and  natural  elements,  distinctly  and  strictly  forbidden  in  Hebrew 
laws,  because  such  practices  had  existed  before  the  Exodus,  and,  there- 
fore, were  objected  to  in  the  reformed  code. 

Indeed,  the  resemblance  in  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  Peruvians, 
before  the  Spanish  conquests,  to  those  of  oriental  nations  of  the  most  re- 
mote antiquity,  has  been  frequently  referred  to  by  historians  best  ac- 
quainted with  the  peculiarities  of  each. 

The  revolutions  of  the  civilized  nations  of  ancient  Asia  are  repeatedly 
referred  to  in  biblical  history  to  instruct  the  people  in  the  causes  which 
led  to  proposed  reformations  in  their  moral  laws. 

To  obtain  relief  from  oppressive  superstitions,  famine,  diseases,  and 
wars,  or  to  find  means  fully  to  express  the  wonderful  movements  of  mental 
action,  ancient  revolutions  may  have  driven  numerous  colonies,  in  long 
forgotten  ages,  to  seek  refuge  in  most  distant  lands  as  now. 

That  such  emigrations  were  made  by  land  occasionally,  a curious 
proof  exists  in  the  interior  of  China.  A town  is  inhabited  by  descend- 
ants of  people  from  the  neighborhood  of  the  Mediterranean,  bearing 
manuscripts  of  Hebrew  laws,  written  upon  rolls  of  skins  or  parchment,  in 
the  peculiar  characters  of  that  people,  and  still  remain  as  evidence  of 
their  original  descent,  although  the  present  inhabitants  have  become  so 
assimilated  with  the  Chinese,  that  no  one  among  them  can  read  or  com- 
prehend the  language  of  those  ancient  commandments. 

If  the  modern  knowledge  of  the  winds  and  currents  of  the  ocean  per- 
mit, the  writer  will  attempt  to  show,  that  sea-going  vessels,  well  managed 
by  Phoenicians,  Tyrians,  or  Carthaginians,  equal,  at  least,  to  those  in 


80 


TEMPERATURE  OF  BULL’S  BLOOD. 


which  Columbus  made  his  discoveries,  were  perfectly  competent  to  tra- 
verse the  Indian  and  South  Pacific  oceans,  and  to  have  landed  a civilized 
pair  on  the  coast  of  Peru,  sufficiently  near  Lake  Titicaca  to  give  perma- 
nent credit  to  their  appearance  from  that  direction,  to  instruct  the  gentle 
and  tractable  aborigines  of  those  mountains,  who,  by  the  mild,  intelli- 
gent, and  persuasive  character  of  the  strangers,  adapting  their  moderate 
government  to  the  peculiarities  in  the  dispositions  of  the  natives,  gradu- 
ally acquired  that  prominence  in  the  peaceful  arts  of  life  which  put  to 
shame  the  acts  of  later  conquerors. 

In  comparing  the  skulls  of  the  Incas  family  with  those  of  the  aborigi- 
nal Peruvians,  engravings  demonstrate  the  latter  were  deficient  in  intel- 
lectual character,  while  the  Incas  exhibit  very  distinct  differences  of 
conformation  and  of  ability. 

The  oriental  practice  of  travelling,  by  water  or  land,  accompanied  by 
wives,  is  notorious.  It  still  appears  a trait  of  character  distinguishing 
eastern  people,  both  in  Asia  and  America. 

Captain  Gallownin,  of  the  Russian  sloop-of-war  Diana,  sent  by  his 
government  in  1811  to  make  a survey  of  the  Kurile  group,  and  to  at* 
tempt  friendly  relations  with  the  J apanese,  was  induced  to  land  with  a 
weak  party,  and  taken  prisoners.  The  officers  of  the  Diana,  in  retaliation, 
intercepted  a Japanese  vessel  of  the  largest  size.  Fortunately,  the  cap- 
tain of  this  vessel  was  a great  ship-owner  and  merchant — a person  of 
much  influence  and  ability.  He  and  his  lady,  the  inseparable  compan- 
ion of  his  voyages,  are  described  to  have  borne  their  misfortunes  with 
wonderful  composure,  like  old  sailors. 

We  are  taught  by  the  winds  and  currents  of  the  north  Atlantic 
ocean,  that  had  Christopher  Columbus  sailed  on  his  voyage  of  discovery 
in  a different  month  of  the  year,  he  never  could  have  reached  the  New 
World.  He  would  have  perished  amidst  calms,  of  which  he  knew 
nothing. 

The  temperature  of  the  blood  of  a young  bull  in  Cuzco  was  100° 
Farenheit;  air  57°.  At  the  base  of  the  Andes  101°;  air  78°. 

We  were  invited  to  join  a party  of  gentlemen  on  horseback  to  meet 
the  prefect  and  his  family  from  Arequipa.  At  the  hacienda  Angostura, 
a large  dinner  table  was  spread  on  the  piazza  near  a fresh  stream  of 
water,  shaded  by  willow  trees,  the  air  fragrant  with  the  perfumes  of 
flowers  and  orange  blossoms.  The  farm  yards  were  filled  with  cattle 
and  sheep,  while  the  fields  around  were  planted  with  maize,  barley, 
potatoes,  or  green  with  lucerne.  In  the  garden,  peach,  apple,  and  pear 
trees  were  seen.  We  dismounted  in  the  court-yard.  A mule  came 
into  the  gate  with  a square  box  on  his  back,  covered  like  a market 


PREFECT  OF  CUZCO. 


81 


wagon,  with  a raised  cotton-eloth  cover  upon  hoops.  Inside  were  three 
noisy,  laughing  children.  From  the  number  of  persons  ready  to  assist 
the  youngsters,  there  was  no  mistaking  these  little  Arequipanians,  who 
were  delighted  to  get  out  of  their  box.  The  Senora  and  Senorita  were 
in  their  riding  dresses.  The  ease  of  manner  and  beauty  of  the  Arequipa 
ladies  have  been  celebrated*;  the  daughter  was  about  eighteen.  She  re- 
ceived the  compliments  of  a hundred  beaux  with  graceful  modesty. 
The  dinner  table  was  well  supplied  with  meats  and  wines,  and  a desert 
table  with  many  good  things.  Champaigne  wine  and  sweetmeats 
seemed  of  more  assistance  in  speech-making  and  toasting  than  keeping 
the  party  together  on  the  road  back.  A judge  of  the  court  assured  the 
party  “ he  should  give  up  drinking  water  as  soon  as  the  navigation  of 
the  Madre-de-Dios  was  open.” 

Angostura  belongs  to  the  Bishop  of  Cuzco ; it  is  one  of  the  best  cul- 
tivated haciendas  in  the  valley. 

A number  of  Indians  collected  in  the  small  town  of  San  Sebastian 
were  celebrating  the  Saint’s  day  of  the  little  church.  The  main  street 
was  decorated  with  flags ; arches  were  made  with  poles  on  each  side,  and 
strings  stretched  across,  to  which  were  suspended  coins  of  silver.  The 
first  we  passed  under  was  adorned  with  one  dollar  pieces  ; the  next, 
half  dollars ; then  quarters,  shillings,  and  sixpences.  Other  arches 
were  made  to  which  were  hung  pottery,  fancifully-painted  pitchers,  jugs, 
pots,  and  jars — all  of  earthenware.  These  hung  so  close  to  our  heads 
that  some  one  plucked  a specimen,  which  disrespectful  act  brought  down 
a string,  and  almost  all  were  broken  under  our  horses’  feet. 

The  Indians  were  dancing  in  the  little  plaza,  some  in  blade  masks, 
others  -with  cows’  horns  and  the  skin  of  the  cow’s  head  over  their  heads 
and  shoulders.  A crowrd  of  them  were  teasing  a young  bull,  pulling  his 
tail  and  mounting  him.  The  poor  animal  was  tired  down  and  secured, 
specially  disgusted  at  the  music  of  a cane  flute  and  hide  drum. 

We  halted  in  the  plaza  and  witnessed  a sham  fight  with  bows  and 
arrows,  war  clubs,  and  large  wooden  swords,  gotten  up  for  the  moment 
for  the  benefit  of  the  prefect  and  his  family.  It  was  the  representation 
of  a fight  between  the  Quichua  Indians  of  the  Andes,  and  the  Chun- 
chos  of  the  lowlands.  The  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners  in  Chunchos 
shoes  was  dreadful ; while  the  delighted  Quichuas  went  through  the  mo- 
tions of  cutting  their  enemies  up,  one  by  one,  into  small  bits,  and  heaped 
them  on  one  side  like  sticks  in  a wood  pile.  • 

The  church  doors  were  all  open ; the  altar  brilliantly  lighted  with 
tallow  candles ; and  along  the  walls  on  the  outside  stood  rows  of  im- 
mense chicha  jars,  carefully  guarded  by  the  women  who  huckstered  it 


82 


CUZCO. 


out — a sixpence  for  an  earthen  jugful.  The  whole  affair  was  a curious 
mixture,  difficult  to  digest  by  those  unaccustomed  to  such  habits. 
Many  of  the  ancient  Indian  customs  seem  to  be  allowed ; this  has  a 
good  effect  upon  the  aborigines,  who  give  preference  to  cows’  horns  and 
chicha  over  the  more  expensive  requirements  of  the  church. 

From  the  balconies  in  the  streets  of  Cuzco  flowers  were  showered 
upon  the  heads  of  the  ladies,  and  the  people  shouted  “ Iluzza  for  the 
new  Cuzcanians !”  Many  families  were  ready  to  welcome  the  lady  and 
her  children  into  the  prefectura,  and  after  night  she  was  serenaded  by  a 
brass  band.  We  have  never  seen  the  moon  rise  with  such  splendor  as 
it  does  over  the  snow-capped  mountains  to  the  east  of  Cuzco ; she 
throws  her  light  quietly  down  over  this  interesting  valley.  There  are 
two  noises  which  disturb  its  midnight  stillness — the  braying  of  a jackass 
and  the  baying  of  a dog ; both  seem  to  wake  up  as  the  moon  peeps 
through  the  silvery  peaks.  The  cocks  crow  as  the  moon  is  eclipsed  by 
a passing  cloud. 

The  house  of  a prefect  is  generally  a gay  one.  The  gentlemen  meet 
in  the  evening  to  talk  over  the  news  of  the  day,  play  cards,  and  so  on. 
There  is  very  little  visiting  among  the  ladies  of  Cuzco  except  on  Sunday 
after  church.  They  are  seldom  seen  walking  in  the  streets.  On  Saturday 
evenings  they  repair  to  the  plaza  to  purchase  a new  pair  of  shoes,  which 
is  the  time  to  see  them  at  most  advantage.  On  these  occasions  the 
priests  appear  with  little  silver  images,  standing  on  one  side  of  a large 
silver  plate  ; as  the  ladies  pay  the  Indians  for  their  shoes,  the  padre  pre- 
sents the  image  to  be  kissed,  and  the  plate  receives  a donation  or  church- 
tax  upon  the  price  of  shoe-leather.  There  are  very  few  who  kiss  the  image 
that  do  not  pay,  unless  it  be  the  second  time  the  priest  has  offered  it  on 
the  same  Saturday,  and  then  they  bashfully  decline.  On  these  days 
poor  families  send  old  books,  bits  of  iron,  horse-shoes,  nails,  spikes,  bri- 
dle-bits, and  stirrups,  or  any  other  article  they  may  want  the  money  for, 
and  the  Indian  servant  sells  them  for  what  she  can  get.  There  is  little 
wealth  in  Cuzco ; with  a few  exceptions,  the  people  are  as  poor  as  they 
are  indolent.  Some  of  the  more  energetic,  who  own  haciendas  in  the 
valley,  and  have  mercantile  houses  in  the  city,  are  called  rich — that  is 
to  say,  they  have  more  than  they  require  to  live  upon. 

The  climate  of  Cuzco,  during  our  stay,  was  not  pleasant ; cold  rains 
water  the  hill-tops,  which,  in  the  morning,  are  white  with  frost,  and  be- 
ing evaporated,  form  clouds.  Though  Cuzco  is  within  the  tropics,  and 
the  dry  or  warm  season  extends  from  May  to  September,  the  people  are 
dressed  in  winter  clothing.  When  the  sun  passes  Cuzco,  on  his  way 
south,  the  rainy  season  commences ; the  drops  come  down  in  hail  and 


CUZCO. 


S3 


snow  flakes,  and  under  the  vertical  sun  the  people  are  in  mid-winter 
storms,  and  require  more  clothing  in  what,  astronomically  speaking,  is 
their  summer,  than  they  do  in  their  winter  months.  Strangers  sutler 
somewhat  at  first  by  not  watching  closely  the  changes  of  the  tempera- 
ture, and  dressing  accordingly.  Influenza  and  rheumatic  affections  are 
very  common  ; many  of  the  poorer  classes  have  small-pox  for  the  want 
of  vaccination.  There  is  a good  deal  of  dropsy,  but  few  cases  of  con- 
sumption. 

The  Indians  use  more  coca  here  than  elsewhere,  and  seem  to  injure 
their  health  by  chewing  such  quantities.  Those  living  in  the  city  are 
thin  and  miserable-looking,  in  comparison  with  the  country  people. 
The  Indians  seem  to  be  much  neglected  ; when  they  are  sick,  they  wait 
patiently  until  they  die  or  get  better.  The  charges  of  medical  men  are 
high  ; Indians  cannot  afford  to  employ  a Doctor.  The  native  physici- 
ans are  generally  the  most  moderate,  and  understand  the  climate  the 
best.  There  are  a few  foreigners  in  Cuzco,  among  them  a French  baker. 
The  people  seem  as  fond  of  talking  with  him  as  they  are  of  eating  his 
bread. 

The  city  abounds  with  shop-keepers  and  tailors,  who  pass  their  days 
in  the  sun.  As  the  twilight  commences,  the  street  doors  are  closed, 
and  the  town  presents  a dark  and  doleful  appearance.  Here  and  there 
a lamp  is  hung  out  in  front  of  eating,  government,  and  gambling  houses. 
The  young  men  play  billiards  at  a sort  of  club,  where  the  room  is  de- 
corated with  a likeness  of  Napolean  Bonaparte  on  one  side,  and  George 
Washington  on  the  other.  A Frenchman  keeps  the  house. 

The  French  are  much  the  most  popular  foreigners.  They  soon  marry 
a country  woman,  and  adopt  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  Spaniards. 
An  Englishman  don’t  manage  so  well ; one  may  mistake  a Frenchman, 
who  has  been  in  the  country  a long  time,  for  a Spaniard ; but  the 
florid  English  face  declares  his  nation  at  first  sight.  John  Bull  seems 
delighted  with  an  opportunity  to  speak  English,  while  the  French  tongue 
seems  slung  for  Spanish.  The  Frenchman  practises  the  courtesies  and 
habits  of  these  people;  introduces  his  wife  and  all  the  children  to  you. 
He  seems  settled  for  life  ; the  other  talks  constantly  of  returning  to  old 
England.  He  is  more  active,  sometimes  cultivates  the  soil,  or  is  en- 
gaged in  mining.  Since  my  return  fjom  the  Madre-de-Dios,  a young 
Englishman  gathering  bark,  with  a party  of  Quichua  Indians,  in  a south- 
easterly direction  from  San  Miguel  farm,  were  all  murdered  by  the 
Chunclios. 

The  mail  arrives  and  leaves  Cuzco  for  Lima,  and  other  places,  twice  a 
week.  There  are  two  mail  routes  to  and  from  Lima ; one  inland  through 


84 


BREAD  CROPS. 


Ayacucho  and  Huancavelica,  distant  189  leagues;  the  other  by  the 
English  steamer  from  Callao  to  Yslay,  thence  through  Arequipa.  This 
is  the  most  expeditious  route  ; the  distance  from  Cuzco  to  Arequipa  is 
95  leagues. 

October  28,  1851. — Our  baggage  well  covered  with  tarpaulins. 
Jose’s  saddle  wallets  received  two  roasted  chickens,  a leg  of  mutton,  and 
a large  cheese  fresh  from  the  dairy,  a present  from  the  kind  lady  of  the 
house.  This  is  the  custom  of  the  country.  Jose  tells  me,  as  we  follow 
our  train  out  of  Cuzco,  when  guests  are  treated  in  this  way,  they  maybe 
sure  they  are  considered  friends  of  the  family.  The  hospitality  of  this 
country  is  conspicuous  and  delicate. 

The  arrieros  contract  to  go  from  post-house  to  post-house,  on  the 
road  south.  I was  recommended  to  go  by  the  post,  instead  of  engaging 
mules  for  so  long  a distance.  Although  the  change  of  mules  is  desirable, 
the  daily  change  of  arrieros  is  not ; the  men  work  best  after  they  become 
accustomed  to  us. 

The  Iudians  are  ploughing  in  barley  and  hoeing  corn.  The  crops 
suffer  for  want  of  rain  in  the  valley.  The  road  is  very  dusty.  We 
halted  for  the  night  in  the  small  town  of  Oropesa,  and  for  the  first  time 
took  up  quarters  in  a Peruvian  post-house.  The  moment  Paititi  entered 
the  patio,  he  began  to  war  with  the  dogs.  The  house  consisted  of  one 
story  and  one  room.  Travellers  take  a house  ; we  had  a table  and  three 
chairs,  made  of  the  wood  of  the  moutana ; in  the  corners  were  earthen 
couches  for  beds.  The  walls  were  dirty,  painted  with  pictures  of  angels 
and  saints.  The  ground  floor  was  swept  for  us.  As  we  took  our  tea, 
Paititi  sat  in  the  doorway  looking  on.  I felt  a flea.  The  entrance 
to  the  corral  where  the  post-mules  were  kept,  was  opposite  the  kitchen, 
where  two  large  black  hogs  were  feeding.  In  the  doorway  was  seated 
the  fat,  homely  wife  of  the  postman.  The  smoke  of  the  kitchen  fire 
gracefully  flowed  out  over  her  shaggy  head ; she  was  a very  cross- 
looking woman.  One  of  her  hogs  came  near,  and  Paititi  gave  him  a 
snap  in  the  ham ; she  mumbled  out  something  revengeful,  while  the 
jolly  postman  laughed  and  praised  our  spirited  watch -dog. 

In  the  morning  at  7,  thermometer  58°,  the  postman  came  to  say 
good  morning,  ana  inquire  howVe  passed  the  night,  as  though  he  did 
not  know  how  full  of  fleas  his  house  was.  After  breakfast  he  left  his 
sour-looking  wife,  and  accompanied  us  to  the  next  post.  The  custom  is 
to  pay  fare  in  advance.  Paititi  gave  the  fat  woman’s  sow  a farewell 
nip,  and  we  marched  on. 

As* we  rise  the  side  of  the  small  mountain  of  rocks  and  red  clay,  we 
look  down  upon  a lake  of  clear  water,  in  which  a flock  of  wild  ducks 


TTRABAMBA  RIVER. 


85 


are  bathing.  Beyond  its  green  shores,  we  see  lucerne,  cornfields,  and 
haciendas  surrounded  with  willow  trees,  near  the  base  of  barren  hills. 
This  is  the  eastern  end  of  the  valley  of  Cuzco,  which  is  about  five 
leagues  long,  and  two  miles  wide  in  some  places.  It  is  thickly  inhab- 
ited and  well  cultivated.  Our  course  lay  along  the  western  bank  of 
the  Urubamba  river,  a tributary  of  the  Santa  Ana.  The  waters  glide 
swiftly  on  northward.  The  river  is  straight,  thirty  yards  wide,  with 
little  fall ; rocky  bottom,  and  muddy  water.  The  stream  passes  between 
two  ranges  of  hills.  In  places  the  valley  is  half  a mile  wide;  then 
again  there  is  just  room  enough  for  the  river  and  our  road.  Here  the 
shores  are  of  black  rock,  then  of  gravel,  then  clay  breaking  down  per- 
pendicularly, or  with  a long  sandy  beach.  "While  the  wild  ducks  feed 
upon  the  water,  the  snipe  seeks  his  food  along  the  shore.  Small  fish  and 
tadpoles  are  plenty;  but  we  saw  no  large  fish  in  or  out  of  the  water. 

The  town  of  Quiquijana  has  a population  of  two  thousand  Indians. 
They  cultivate  the  soil  as  high  up  the  mountain-sides  as  the  producing 
line ; raise  sheep  and  cattle.  Mules  are  very  fine-looking  here.  Where 
the  lucerne  is  not  in  blossom,  we  feed  our  mules  with  corn-fodder,  and 
they  travel  the  better  for  it.  Unripe  lucerne  weakens  the  animals. 
There  is  an  elevation  above  the  sea  at  which  barley  grows,  but  never 
produces  grain.  The  stalk  is  very  much  liked  by  the  mules,  either 
green  or  dry.  On  the  flats  it  is  raised  and  stored  away  for  the  dry 
summer  season,  when  the  parching  sun  destroys  the  pastures. 

We  crossed  the  river  on  a freestone  bridge.  There  was  no  toll  to 
pay.  The  road  keeps  the  east  bank  of  the  river.  The  clouds  stand 
still  over  head,  while  we  have  a draft  of  wind  through  the  valley,  and 
every  few  moments  a wind  comes  in  at  right  angles  through  the  deep 
cuts  in  the  ridges.  The  mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  river  are  as 
regular  in  shape  and  size  as  though  they  had  been  planted  by  hand. 
The  small,  coarse  grass  parches  yellowish. 

Leaving  the  small  Indian  town  of  Checcacappa,  the  river  runs  from 
the  east  through  the  mountains.  At  the  turn  there  is  a brushwood  sus- 
pension bridge  in  such  a ruinous  condition  that  we  waded  the  stream 
above,  and  continued  our  course  south,  through  the  valley,  by  a branch 
of  the  Urubamba,  called  b^  the  arrieros  Sicuani.  Beans  and  jackasses 
seem  to  be  the  principal  productions.  After  travelling  some  time 
between  high  ridges  of  mountains,  to  come  suddenly  out  upon  level 
land  and  small  hills,  reminds  one  of  the  break  of  day.  Changed 
baggage-mules  at  Cacha,  a small  town,  where  at  midday  the  thermo- 
meter stood  at  'll0. 

October  31. — Found  boiled  eggs  plenty,  and  a pleasant  postwoman. 


86 


LOSS  OF  PAITITI. 


The  town  of  Sicuani  is  larger  than  any  passed  through  this  side  of 
Cuzco,  and  built  differently.  On  the  long  main  street,  which  is  crossed 
by  small,  narrow  lanes,  we  saw  many  pretty  faces.  The  women  are  in  the 
majority  in  the  market,  buying  and  selling  marketing — potatoes,  pep- 
pers, &c.  For  a country  town,  some  of  the  houses  are  very  respectable- 
looking. The  creoles  regard  us  with  an  air  of  surprise.  As  we  walk 
along,  they  look  very  grave,  touch  their  hats,  and  bow  politely;  but 
suddenly  turning,  one  catches  them  laughing  and  making  remarks.  At 
first  they  called  us  Frenchmen.  We  tell  them  their  mistake.  They 
inquire,  “Englishmen?”  Upon  being  told  North  Americans,  they  ex- 
claim, with  a wondering  expression,  “Oh!  California!”  A party  of  Indian 
boys  were  playing  with  tops — one  of  the  very  few  things  reminding 
us  of  home. 

A printed  notice,  pasted  at  the  corner  of  the  plaza,  forbids  the  trap- 
ping or  shooting  vacuna,  by  order  of  the  supreme  government.  When 
the  people  gather  the  wool  of  the  vacuna,  they  kill  the  animal,  instead 
of  shearing  it  and  setting  it  at  liberty  again.  We  were  told  it  w7as 
easier  to  take  the  fleece  off  when  the  animal  was  dead.  As  iheir  num- 
bers are  decreasing,  the  government  protects  them. 

November  1. — At  8 o’clock  a.  m.,  thermometer,  54°.  It  rained 
during  the  night.  The  hills  are  now  covered  with  snow.  After  leaving 
the  town  and  wading  the  river,  we  followed  up  the  western  bank  of 
the  stream.  On  arriving  at  a small  town,  our  baggage-nrules  passed 
ahead.  Proceeding  some  distance,  we  met  a man,  who  told  me  the 
baggage  was  not  on  that  road,  and  we  turned.  After  travelling  for 
some  time,  I suddenly  missed  Paititi.  We  had  turned  back  without 
calling  him.  Paititi  had  become  a pet,  and  was  now  considered  as  one 
of  the  party.  Jose  went  back  in  search  of  him ; but  we  never  saw 
our  brave  little  animal  again.  lie  had  guarded  our  tent  by  night, 
and  fought  our  battles  on  the  road.  He  made  friends  for  us,  too ; 
for  whenever  the  people  heard  his  name,  they  wanted  to  know  his 
history.  The  mountain  people  take  great  interest  in  such  matters ; 
and  when  they  learned  where  Paititi  came  from,  they  became  interested 
in  the  party,  and  were  the  more  polite  upon  introduction  through  the 
dog.  We  have  lost  a friend. 

Agua  Caliente  post-house  is  the  most  miserable  habitation  imaginable, 
surrounded  by  a few  ruins  of  small  houses.  The  evening  is  cold;  the 
tops  of  the  mountains  covered  with  snow.  The  post-mules  pastured  on 
coarse  grass  in  the  plain  or  mountain  pass.  Our  mules  are  unsaddled 
and  set  at  liberty  to  go  with  them ; but  they  return  to  the  door,  and 
look  for  their  usual  supper.  The  postman,  a poor  old  Indian,  was  with 


N S II  ""WO 


AGUA  CALIENTE. 


87 


difficulty  persuaded  to  sell  us  some  barley  straw,  which  Jose  found  in 
one  corner  of  a ruin.  Dark  cumulus  clouds  being  about  us,  as  the 
rain,  hail,  and  snow  came  down  from  southeast,  the  mules  stood  shivering 
at  the  door.  The  scene  is  wild  outside,  and  miserably  dirty  and  damp 
within.  Five  slim,  hungry  post-dogs  came  impudently  into  our  house 
at  supper  time.  One  of  them  went  so  far  as  to  put  his  nose  into  Jose’s 
saddle-wallets.  He  at  once  engaged  an  Indian  to  go  back  to  the  small 
town,  and  look  for  Paititi  during  the  night. 

A short  distanoe  from  the  house  a mist  was  observed  rising  from  a 
spring  amidst  the  hail-stones.  The  air  was  40°,  and  spring  water  122°. 
This  hot  water  bubbles  up  from  the  earth  like  boiling  water  in  a pot, 
and  is  the  head  of  the  river  we  have  been  travelling  along.  The  hot 
water  flows  northward.  This  spring  appears  like  a small  steam-engine, 
working  with  all  its  might,  manufacturing  water  for  one  of  the  branches 
of  the  mighty  Amazon.  The  water  on  the  other  side  of  the  house  flows 
southward,  declining  to  become  Amazonian. 

The  Cordillera  and  Ande  ranges  here  cross  or  come  together.  The 
Andes  range  to  the  north  of  this  high  place  is  generally  lower  than  the 
Cordilleras.  From  here  south  the  order  of  things  is  changed.  The 
eastern  ridge  in  Bolivia  and  Chili  is  more  characteristic  of  the  western 
chain  of  Peru  and  Ecuador.  To  the  south  we  are  told  the  western 
range  is  lower  than  the  eastern. 

Our  compass  dances  about  so  much  that  it  is  of  no  use  here ; at  one 
time  it  stands  still  with  the  south  point  down,  and  then  again  flies  round 
as  though  it  had  lost  the  north  point.  The  soil  is  very  wet  and  swampy. 
The  small  snow-water  lakes  are  filled  with  wild  ducks,  geese,  and  black 
divers.  We  shot  a pair  of  white  geese,  with  tail  and  ends  of  wings 
black,  small  bills  and  large  heads ; the  male  and  female  both  of  the 
same  color. 

The  town  of  Santa  Rosa  has  a population  of  five  hundred  Indians ; 
it  is  difficult  to  tell  whence  they  draw  provisions,  for  not  an  inch  of  this 
part  of  the  country  is  cultivated,  nor  do  we  observe  anything  particu- 
larly agreeable  in  the  climate. 

Our  hour  for  starting  in  the  morning  is  six  o’clock ; but  here  the 
postman  and  arriero  went  to  prayers ; so  we  waited  till  9,  when  we 
entered  a puna,  level  as  a floor.  The  mountains  dwindled  away  to  hills  ; 
sheep  are  grazing  on  the  plains;  as  we  breakfasted  on  our  roasted  goose 
by  the  side  of  the  path,  a tired  Indian  came  up  and  told  Jose  he  was 
very  hungry ; with  a wing  and  a biscuit,  he  followed  his  drove  of  eighty 
llamas  more  comfortably.  I once  asked  an  Indian  what  he  did 
wrhen  he  was  out  of  provision  ? He  replied  patiently,  “ Don’t  eat.” 


88 


CURA  OF  AYAVIRE. 


Here  and  there  a low  ridge  crosses  the  plain  east  and  west;  as  we  rise 
one  of  them  our  view  is  uninterrupted,  except  in  the  distance  on  the 
east  and  west  sides,  when  low  ranges  of  small  hills  stretch  along  north 
and  south.  At  a small  stream  flowing  west  we  shot  a wild  duck,  and 
got  a crack  at  a snipe.  As  the  thunder  clapped  to  the  northeast,  we 
rode  into  the  town  of  Ayavire,  a puna  town.  The  Indians  all  look 
neatly  dressed  in  coarse  blue  cloth  ; the  houses  are  clean,  but  small,  with 
narrow  streets.  Two  tall  church  steeples  run  up  in  the  midst  of  the 
houses,  and  a small  plaza  in  front.  What  we  first  noticed  was  the 
silence ; not  even  the  noise  of  the  hoof  of  a jackass  was  heard  on  the 
paved  streets. 

We  dismounted  in  the  patio  of  the  cura  of  the  town,  and  met  at  the 
door  three  young  ladies.  I gave  an  open  letter  to  the  eldest  to  read ; 
the  cura  was  not  at  home ; the  letter  was  from  his  son  and  their  brother 
in  Cuzco,  and  we  were  welcomed.  They  had  just  finished  dinner,  but 
we  were  served.  A servant  took  the  letter  to  the  cura,  who  was  dining 
out.  A message  came  from  the  governor  to  invite  us  to  join  his  party  ; 
we  brushed  the  dust  off,  and  the  ladies  arranged  their  hair,  when  we 
walked  with  them  through  the  town.  At  the  governor’s  house  we  met 
the  old  cura,  who  introduced  us  to  the  dinner  party.  It  was  after  dinner 
with  all ; we  found  them  very  agreeable.  The  cura  insisted  upon  our 
drinking  a glass  of  wine  with  every  lady  in  the  room,  which  was  tough 
work,  as  there  were  quite  a number.  Music  and  coffee  were  introduced 
in  a room  on  another  side  of  the  patio.  The  cura  was  a sharp-featured 
man,  tall  and  very  slim,  with  a most  agreeable  expression  of  face.  He 
smoked  a paper  cigar  on  an  average  of  every  ten  minutes  during  the 
evening.  He  was  particularly  fond  of  dancing  with  a pretty  young  girl 
of  sixteen,  though  he  was  about  sixty  years  of  age.  He  kept  remarkably 
good  time;  was  full  of  life  and  gayety  while  with  her;  but  when  she 
was  otherwise  engaged,  he  amused  the  party  by  falling  to  sleep  in  his 
seat.  He  received  the  laughter  and  remarks  of  the  elder  ladies  with 
good  humor ; lighting  his  cigar  by  the  candle  and  looking  round  the 
room  at  the  same  time,  burnt  his  fingers,  which  discomposed  the  musi- 
cians, and  confused  the  cotillon.  He  had  drawn  hollows  in  his  cheeks 
by  working  so  much  at  the  tobacco  leaf,  and  forfeited  every  tooth  in  his 
. head,  which  was  bald.  Yet,  his  pleasant  smile  and  agreeable  manners 
overcame  these  particulars,  for  the  girls  certainly  liked  him.  His  three 
daughters  were  handsome  persons,  and  had  much  of  the  old  cura’s 
gayety  about  them.  One  was  married  to  a miner,  who  she  says  is  doing 
little. 

There  are  a few  silver  mines  to  the  northeast  of  the  town,  which  have 


CUSTOM  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


89 


been  abandoned,  except  one  or  two,  from  which  little  silver  is  extracted. 
In  the  morning,  we  visited  the  church  and  saw  the  cura  in  his  clerical 
robes.  To  meet  him  came  numbers  of  Indians,  well  dressed  in  blue — 
their  favorite  color.  Their  hats,  made  of  puna  grass,  and  covered  with 
blue  cloth,  are  lined  with  scarlet.  The  population  here  go  barefooted. 
The  little  town  is  thickly  peopled — about  fifteen  hundred — but  the  plain 
is  not,  and  resembles  a desert  in  many  places.  Near  Ayavire  barley 
grows,  but  no  grain  is  produced  upon  it.  Potatoes  and  a little  wheafr 
are  brought  to  the  plaza,  a short  distance  from  the  east,  and  from  the 
valleys  among  the  hills  to  the  west.  Corn  cannot  be  raised  on  these 
flats.  Sheep  are  the  principal  animals  here ; black  cattle  and  horses  are 
very  small.  The  only  spontaneous  growth  is  a short,  coarse  puna  grass, 
which  is  not  in  the  least  green. 

November  4,  1851. — At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  57°;  wet  bulb,  52°. 
About  the  hill  tops  there  is  rain,  thunder,  and  lightning ; the  rain  turns 
into  sleet,  and  the  hills  are  white,  while  clouds  appear  after  the  rising  of 
the  sun.  On  the  puna,  the  reaper  cuts  his  crop  and  leaves  it  on  the 
ground  during  the  dry  season ; when  the  rainy  season  commences,  he 
plants  again. 

A strange  traveller  halted  in  front  of  the  cura’s  door,  where  he  and  I 
were  standing.  The  compliments  of  the  day  were  exchanged,  when  a 
long  pause  followed.  Upon  Jnvitation,  the  man  dismounted,  and  his 
horse  was  taken  away  by  an  Indian.  Dinner  was  ordered  by  the 
daughter ; the  man  ate,  smoked,  slept,  and  was  off  next  morning  by 
daylight.  The  cura  said  “ that  is  the  way  we  travel  in  this  country ; 
many  a time  I have  begged  a dinner  and  night’s  lodging  on  the  road.  I 
never  saw  that  man  before ; he  is  from  Arequipa  and  going  to  Cuzco.” 

One  of  the  cura’s  daughters  had  a headache  after  the  dance ; she  was 
cured  by  one  of  our  Siedlitz  powders. 

We  journeyed  along  the  lazy  stream  that  winds  its  way  towards  the 
south.  Young  lambs  are  staggering  after  the  ewes.  Indians  of  the 
puna  wear  thick  woollen  skull  caps.  The  sheep  are  sheared  at  the 
commencement  of  the  rainy  season,  when  potatoes  are  planted.  De- 
cember is  the  first  stormy  month  ; now  the  sky  is  of  the  clearest  and  of 
the  deepest  blue ; the  days  are  warm,  and  the  nights  cold.  We  dis- 
mounted to  drink  from  a small  stream,  and  shot  a pair  of  ducks.  ,As 
we  mounted,  Jose’s  mule  became  frightened,  kicked  at  a most  furious 
rate,  broke  from  him  and  ran  across  the  plain,  through  "the  flocks  and 
sheppardesses ; stripped  itself  of  saddle  bags,  gun,  and  part  of  the  bridle, 
but  turning  into  the  road,  joined  the  baggage  mules.  Two  days  ago, 
Jose  was  thrown  in  the  most  ridiculous  manner  over  his  mule’s  head. 


90 


LAMPA. 


"When  a mule  becomes  frightened,  it  is  almost  impossible  for  a man  to 
hold  on ; its  whole  strength  is  brought  in  opposition  to  the  rider ; and 
notwithstanding  the  powerful  bit  used  in  this  country,  it  often  succeeds 
in  getting  away.  Jose  generally  finds  something  to  amuse  during  the 
day,  his  grave  countenance  making  the  scene  the  more  laughable. 

The  master  of  the  post  at  the  small  town  of  Pucara  was  a judge.  Be- 
fore our  leaving  in  the  morning  a case  came  before  him.  Two  Indians 
(quarrelled  about  some  property,  while  celebrating  the  saint’s  day  of  the 
church.  They  both  drank  too  much  chicha ; then  the  quarrel  took  a 
more  serious  turn,  and  they  were  arrested.  Witnesses  on  both  sides 
entered  the  post-house ; the  men  stood  up  along  the  walls ; one  by  one 
told  what  he  knew  about  the  matter.  The  women  were  then  called  upon. 
The  two  parties  seated  themselves  opposite  each  other,  near  the  door. 
The  judge  questioned  one;  her  answer  brought  on  a general  discussion. 
They  became  very  violent  against  each  other.  The  scene  became  inter- 
esting. When  the  Indian  women  have  trouble,  they  cry  and  talk  at 
such  a rapid  rate,  without  listening  to  what  is  said,  that  the  judge  de- 
clared he  never  could  make  head  or  tail  of  their  evidence.  The  case 
was  postponed. 

There  is  no  dew  at  night  on  the  puna.  Half  way  between  Pacara 
and  Lampa,  the  river  Ayavire  turns  east ; it  is  a small  stream,  about 
fifteen  yards  wide.  The  wind  here  was  Jup  the  river,  and  on  the  *(11 
side,  and  in  the  ravines  near  by,  there  were  a few  stunted  trees.  The 
small  river  basin  stretched  off  to  the  east ; the  winds  come  down  over 
the  water  and  strike  the  hill  there,  and  nowhere  else  do  we  observe 
such  a growth  as  on  the  hills  near  these  puna  table-lands. 

The  town  of  Lampa  has  a population  of  about  four  thousand.  The 
Indians  are  very  black  ; the  hot  sun  burns  them  in  the  day,  and  in  the 
cold  nights  they  are  smoked  in  their  houses,  some  of  which  have  tile 
roofs,  but  they  are  generally  thatched  with  puna  grass.  Neither  the 
heat  of  the  sun,  nor  the  effect  of  the  smoke,  has  as  yet  made  their  hair 
curly  or  woolly.  It  is  worn  in  one  long  wig,  China  fashion.  Many  of 
them  were  hewing  stone,  and  preparing  to  increase  the  size  of  the 
church,  which  appears  to  us  very  large,  even  now. 

The  sub-prefect  was  suffering  from  neuralgia,  and  many  of  tbe  creoles 
had  toothache  and  colds.  Lampa  is  a sort  of  half-way  house  between 
Arequipa  and  Cuzco.  The  trains  of  mules,  loaded  with  foreign  manu- 
factures, halt  here  to  rest  on  their  way  from  the  coast. 

Our  mules  were  wTell  shod  all  round  for  the  first  time  since  we  pur- 
chased them  in  Lima.  I made  an  agreement  with  the  blacksmith  that 
they  should  not  be  whipped,  in  case  they  refused  to  stand  still.  We 


GOLD  OF  CARABAYA. 


91 


expected  a kicking  from  Rose,  but  she  stood  quietly.  The  blacksmith 
wanted  to  buy  her,  and  said  she  was  worth  more  than  she  cost  in  Lima, 
though  mules  are  more  plenty  here.  He  charged  four  dollars  for  eight 
shoes.  The  man’s  son  held  the  mule ; his  daughter  handed  him  the 
nails,  and  his  wife  cooked  her  chupe  by  the  smithy  fire.  She  makes 
pottery  and  he  silver  spoons ; he  is  a creole  and  she  an  Indian  woman. 
One  spoon  had  a sharp-pointed  handle.  After  breakfast,  which  came 
in  between  the  shoeing  of  Rose’s  fore  and  hind  feet,  the  woman  picked  • 
her  teeth  with  the  sharp  end  of  the  spoon ; after  which  she  used  it  as  a 
pin  to  hold  on  her  shawl  or  manto',  made  usually  of  scarlet,  blue,  or 
yellow  coarse  cloth,  cut  square,  and  sometimes  ornamented  with  white 
silk  or  silver  thread.  When  cpld,  it  is  raised  over  the  head,  but  gener- 
ally covers  only  the  shoulders.  The  blacksmith  was  very  polite,  and 
seemed  actively  employed.  His  shop  and  house  are  in  one,  situated 
near  where  the  arrieros  stop,  so  that  he  is  constantly  called  upon  for 
shoes.  He  wanted  to  know  if  we  were  not  Germans  ! 

The  silver  mines  of  Palca,  seven  leagues  to  the  westward  of  this 
place,  are  profitably  worked.  There  are  no  steam  engines.  Some  of 
the  old  mines  contain  water,  but  are  said  to  be  valuable. 

From  Lampa  to  Crucero,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Carabaya,  the 
distance  is  thirty-one  leagues  in  a northeasterly  direction.  From  Cru- 
cero there  is  a path  through^  a rugged  country,  crossing  mountain 
streams,  to  the  gold  mines  of  Carabaya,  situated  in  the  wild  woods  on 
the  northeast  side  of  the  mountains,  among  which  the  tributaries  of  the 
Madre-de-Dios  take  their  rise.  Gold  was  discovered  and  mines  worked  in 
Carabaya  many  years  ago  ; of  late,  new  discoveries  have  been  made,  and 
more  gold  hunters  seek  their  fortunes  there.  At  the  commencement  of 
the  dry  season  three  hundred  Quichua  Indians  set  out  on  foot,  with 
provisions  and  clothing  upon  their  backs,  from  Crucero  to  the  mines. 
The  road  near  the  mines  is  too  rough  for  a mule.  These  Indians  are 
employed  to  work  the  mines  by  creole  companies. 

The  gold  occurs  in  quartz  and  in  veins  of  black  dust,  which-is  some- 
times half  gold,  and  also  in  grains  among  the  sands  of  the  river.  I was 
told  one  of  the  lavaderos  or  washings,  called  “Alta  Gracia,”  worked  from 
May  to  December  last  year,  by  150  men,  produced  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  pounds  of  gold. 

Pavements  are  built  in  the  beds  of  the  streams  five  yards  square, 
which  are  overflowed  in  the  rainy  season,  and  the  gold  deposited  to  the 
amount  sometimes  of  five  ounces,  which  is  separated  from  the  sand  by 
washing  in  the  dry  season.  The  men  sutler  somewhat  from  sickness 
and  exposure ; provisions  are  very  scarce,  for  every  man  has  to  carry 


92 


GOLD  OF  CARABAYA. 


enough  to  last  during  the  season,  as  the  country  is  uninhabited  and  un- 
cultivated. Specimens  we  saw  were  in  lumps  of  from  one  to  two  ounces 
each,  and  closely  resembled  the  gold  of  California.  I am  told  that  per- 
sons have  lost  money  by  placing  too  much  confidence  in  the  exaggerated 
reports  of  the  riches  of  these  Carabaya  mines.  The  expense  is  very 
great.  The  daily  wages  of  laboring  Indians  is  fifty  cents  per  day,  be- 
sides provisions.  They  received  twenty  five  cents  per  day  for  building 
the  church  in  this  town,  where  they  enjoy  health  with  their  families, 
and  live  an  easy  life.  At  the  mines  the  climate  is  hot. 

Those  who  remain  late  in  the  season  are  in  danger  of  being  caught 
on  the  east  side  of  streams  which  are  impassable  when  flooded.  From 
December  to  May  during  the  year  the  mines  are  unemployed  ; they  are 
beginning  to  come  out  now.  Peruvian  bark  is  found  in  Carabaya. 

November  6. — At  6.30  p.  m.,  thermometer,  52°;  wet  bulb,  45°.  A 
small  stream  flows  southeast  by  the  town,  over  which  is  a well-built 
stone  bridge.  AVe  keep  along  the  east  bank.  On  the  plain  to  the  south 
we  thought  we  saw  a sheet  of  water,  but  it  was  the  refraction,  which 
seemed  to  raise  tbe  hills  up  ; they  looked  like  islands.  The  country  is 
becoming  more  cultivated  as  we  proceed  south,  and  cattle  are  more  nu- 
merous. AAre  find  nearly  the  same  dry,  burnt-up  vegetation  and  dusty 
roads,  though  the  air  feels  moist  enough  for  green  fields  of  grass. 

Halting  at  the  small  adobe-built  town  of  J uliaca,  with  a large  church 
as  usual,  our  baggage-mules  were  changed.  We  spent  the  night  at 
Caracota,  and  changed  mules  again  at  Panearcolla.  To  the  left  of  us 
we  beheld  the  deep  blue  waters  of  the  great  southern  lake  Titicaca. 
The  east  wind  troubled  its  waters ; the  white-capped  waves  reminded 
us  of  the  trade-wind  region  of  the  ocean.  Large  barren  islands  inter- 
cepted our  view ; not  a tree  nor  a bush  was  to  be  seen  ; the  only  living 
thing  in  sight  was  a llama,  seeking  food  among  the  tumbled-up  rocks  on 
the  unproductive  hills.  The  scene  is  wild  and  deadly  silent.  Our 
only  view  was  to  the  southeast,  where  we  saw  tops  of  islands  beyond 
tops  of  islands,  backed  by  mountain  peaks. 

The  wind  is  cold,  and  the  parching  rays  of  the  sun  scorch  the  very 
skin  off.  Our  green  veils  are  so  constantly  blown  off  our  straw  hats  that 
we  pocket  the  troublesome  things.  The  Indians  on  the  road  are  very 
polite.  AVe  are  told  that  it  is  a custom  among  them  to  salute  those 
coming  from  Cuzco  first,  thereby  showing  respect  for  their  ancient 
capital. 

There  are  great  differences  in  the  faces  of  the  Indians,  particularly 
among  the  women.  Some  of  them  resemble  negroes,  with  thick  lips, 
flat  noses,  and  a stupid  expression  of  the  eyes.  Others  look  bright,  in- 


PUNO. 


93 


telligent,  and  lively.  From  the  cheek-bone  the  face  narrows  uniformly 
to  the  chin.  The  nose  is  small,  straight,  and  sharp-pointed;  the  lips 
thin.  Should  any  have  Manco  Capac’s  blood,  I doubt  if  they  know  it. 
Some  of  them  are  very  Shanghai  in  appearance,  while  others  are  taller. 
They  generally  walk  together,  with  the  old  women  behind.  The  men 
keep  to  themselves,  and  are  remarkable  for  their  family  likeness.  All 
seem  serious,  well  behaved,  and  are  always  deeply  interested  in  whatever 
they  may  be  employed,  let  the  occupation  he  ever  so  trifling.  They 
never  seem  to  be  in  a hurry.  They  commence  their  work  before  sun- 
rise, and  get  through  with  it  by  sundown,  provided  there  is  no  chicha 
interference,  which  sometimes  delays  them  on  the  road  till  after  dark. 
In  such  cases,  the  chances  are,  there  have  been  some  unpleasant  feelings 
washed  away. 

I saw  two  Indians  meet  who  had  a difficulty.  One  was  very  much 
affropted,  while  the  other,  aware  of  having  done  a wrong,  wanted  to 
make  amends.  He  bought  a cup  of  chicha,  and  begged  the  other  to 
drink  it.  For  some  time  he  refused,  until  the  wife  of  the  other  per- 
suaded him.  The  moment  it  was  taken,  their  faces  changed  to  smiles, 
and  the  trouble  was  forgotten.  When  there  is  ill  will  among  them, 
they  are  so  quiet,  and  their  hatred  so  deep  rooted,  that  it  is  only  by 
witnessing  a settlement  that  one  is  convinced  of  their  strong  feelings. 
They  are  truthful,  honest,  and  respectful,  one  towards  the  other ; they 
have  no  affectation.  Disinterested  kindness  and  politeness  are  found 
among  them  in  purity.  We  often  amuse  ourselves  watching  the  love- 
making  scenes,  as  those  of  marriageable  age  travel  along  the  road. 
Exceeding  modesty  on  meeting  others  invariably  accompanies  both  the 
man  and  the  girl.  The  men  laugh  at  and  joke  the  man,  while  the  old 
women  scold  the  girl,  and  seem  everlastingly  opposed  to  matches. 

Winding  round  a hill,  and  descending  a ravine,  we  come  to  an  arched 
gateway,' and  enter  the  city  of  Puno.  It  is  a dry,  dusty,  uninteresting- 
looking  place,  of  about  five  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  the  capital  of 
the  department  of  the  same  name,  containing  a population  of  245,681. 
The  town  is  situated  about  a quarter  of  a mile  from  the  west  shore  of 
Lake  Titicaca.  The  ground  towards  the  lake  is  a flat,  green  swamp, 
with  a long  stone  wharf  jutting  out  into  the  water,  at  the  end  of  which 
are  a few  washerwomen,  and  some  balzas  laying  at  anchor.  As  we 
entered  the  plaza,  the  captain  of  the  police  inquired  whence  we  came, 
and  politely  directed  onr  way  to  the  prefectura. 

There  were  many  officers  in  uniform,  and  soldiers  lounging  about 
town.  There  was  a warlike  appearance  here.  T wo  extra  battalions  of 
troops  had  been  lately  sent  from  Larnpa,  complaints  being  made  by  the 


94 


LAKE  TITICACA. 


merchants  of  quantities  of  “bad  money”  coined  and  introduced  into 
this  country  from  Bolivia. 

The  prefect  was  a colonel  in  the  army.  At  his  dinner-table,  the 
subject  of  war  predominated.  On  the  table  were  two  kiuds  of  wine — 
one  Peruvian,  the  other  foreign  ; those  who  preferred  the  former  were 
praised  for  their  patriotism,  and  received  an  extra  invitation  from  the 
prefect  to  take  another  glass.  The  table  was  well  supplied  with  beef, 
mutton,  and  potatoes.  Yuca  was  considered  a great  delicacy;  wheat 
bread  was  scarce.  We  saw  here  what  we  had  before  seeu  at  a midship- 
man’s mess — one  man  cunningly  eating  another  man’s  allowance. 
Salad  heads  are  of  good  size. 

November  10,  1851. — At  12.30  p.  m.,  thermometer,  54°.  The  wind 
blows  from  the  eastward  daily,  all  the  year  round ; commences  as  the 
sun  rises ; at  sundown  it  falls  calm.  Light  westerly  winds  sometimes 
blow  during  the  night.  In  such  cases,  the  stars  and  moon  shine  clearly; 
otherwise,  the  nights  are  overcast,  and  always  cold.  The  mornings  are 
like  our  springs ; the  midday  sun  warm.  There  is  neither  dew  nor 
frosts,  though  the  wind  sweeps  over  the  surface  of  the  lake.  Ice  is 
formed  about  the  spring-water  streams  on  the  sides  of  the  hills. 

From  an  island  in  sight  of  Puno,  the  Indians  bring  vegetables  to 
market.  Small  fish  are  sometimes  taken.  Round  black  pebbles  are 
gathered  from  the  bottom,  and,  with  sheep’s  knuckle  bones,  sold  to  pave 
the  patios  of  houses  in  the  town.  The  Indians  navigate  the  lake  in 
balsas  or  boats,  made  of  the  lake  rush,  which  forms  the  material  for 
both  hull  and  sails.  They  can  only  sail  with  a fair  wind.  It  is  always 
fair  to  market  in  the  daytime,  and  sometimes  favorable  at  night  to 
return  home.  Headway  is  made  against  adverse  winds  by  polling 
over  shoals. 

The  color  of  the  water  near  the  shore  and  shallows  is  green,  like  sea 
water.  When  deep,  it  is  blue.  The  surface  of  the  lake  in  front  of 
Puno  is  nearly  covered  with  dead  rush  stalks.  Among  them  a few 
wild  ducks  are  feeding.  The  stench  arising  is  disagreeable.  The  water 
is  not  used  for  drinking  in  the  town,  though  Lake  Titicaca  is  not  a salt 
lake,  as  at  one  time  was  supposed. 

The  rainy  season  commences  about  the  middle  of  December,  and 
ends  in  the  middle  of  April,  when  probably  the  depth  of  the  lake  may 
be  increased  one  foot.  Such  is  the  opinion  of  intelligent  persons  in 
Puno,  though  no  one  is  known  to  have  measured  the  difference  of  height 
between  the  wet  and  dry  seasons. 

On  the  lake  there  is  one  small  schooner,  belonging  to  Bolivia.  The 
captain  told  me  he  never  found  more  than  thirty  fathoms  water ; gen- 


tntd  “0  » S I J*  MJ'T 


LAKE  TITICACA. 


95 


erallv  much  less.  In  some  places  the  water  is  so  shoal  that  there  is  just 
room  to  push  a balsa  through  the  rushes.  The  deepest  water  is  found 
on  the  eastern  or  Bolivian  side. 

This  lake  is  about  forty  miles  wide,  and  eighty  miles  long.  By  the 
appearance  of  the  flat  land  we  found  on  the  north  side  of  it,  we  judge 
it  was  at  one  time  veiT  much  longer  and  deeper. 

In  the  rainy  season  the  rivers  are  loaded  with  soil  from  the  mountains 
around,  which  being  emptied  into  the  lake,  settles,  and  the  water  flows 
off,  leaving  behind  its  load  of  earth ; -and  so  the  work  from  time  im- 
memorial has  been  going  on.  This  great  lake  is  gradually  filling  up; 
the  water  is  getting  shoaler  every  year ; finally  there  will  be  a single 
stream  flowing  through  what,  in  future  ages,  may  be  called  Titicaca 
valley. 

The  easterly  storms  beat  against  the  eastern  sides  of  mountains 
scorched  into  dust  by  the  rays  of  the  sun  in  the  dry  season.  There  is 
no  sod  or  growth  to  protect  the  soil  from  the  heavy  rains,  which  wash 
it  away  much  more  than  on  the  western  side. 


96 


MANTO  SILVER  MINES. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Manto  silver  mine — Trade — Shores  of  Lake  Titicaca — Kush  balsas — Animals — 
Loftiest  mountains — Aymara  Indians — Mode  of  cultivation — Bottled  fish — 
Frontier  of  Peru — Rio  Desaguedero — Rush  bridge — Bolivian  military  and 
custom-house — Southeast  trade  winds — Tiahuanaco  ruins — Evaporation  and 
precipitation — Planting  small  potatoes — Difficulty  among  postillions — City  of 
La  Paz — Population — Cinchona  bark — Beni  river  and  Madeira  Plata — Transit 
duty — Gold  washings  of  Tipuani — Productions  of  Yungas — Dried  mutton  and 
copper  mines — Articles  of  the  last  constitution — A Bolivian  lady’s  opinion  of 
North  Americans — Illimani  snow-peak — Church  performances  of  the  Aymaras — 
Benenguela  silver  mines — Growth  of  cedar  bushes. 

The  silver  mines  near  Puna,  with  the  exception  of  one,  are  standing 
idle.  Manto,  the  principal  mine,  is  situated  two  miles  south  of  the 
town.  It  has  been  worked  for  twenty  years  ; the  vein  ran  nearly  hori- 
zontally west-southwest,  rising  a little  as  it  passed  through  the  mountain. 
Water  flowed  out  after  the  miner  had  gone  in  some  distance,  and  a dam 
was  built  at  the  mouth  of  the  mine,  wThich  backed  it  up.  Iron  canal 
boats  navigated  the  stream,  and  brought  out  cargoes  of  rich  silver  ore ; 
as  the  miner  travelled  on,  he  found  the  more  use  for  his  boat.  The  canal 
was  locked,  and  the  water  dammed  up  by  the  gates ; some  distance 
farther  back,  when  a second  and  third  gate  were  built,  the  stream  be- 
came smaller,  and  the  vein  rose  much  above  the  level  of  the  entrance 
to  the  head  of  navigation.  Pushing  on  into  the  bowels  of  the  Andes, 
the  miner  built  a railroad  of  iron  from  the  canal  to  the  head  of  the 
mine,  continuing  to  lengthen  it  after  him.  When  the  train  came  down 
loaded  with  metal,  it  was  embarked  and  floated  out  by  boats  with  lights 
burning  at  the  bow  and  stern,  as  the  canal  is  winding  and  narrow,  with 
just  room  for  the  boat  to  pass  between  the  rocks. 

A steam-engine  turns  a large  stone  wheel  of  twelve  feet  diameter, 
under  which  the  ore  was  ground.  It  was  washed  by  water  from  the 
canal,  and  separated  from  its  quicksilver  by  the  heat  of  fires  made  from 
the  excrements  of  llamas,  the  only  fuel  known  here.  Meteorological 
observations  at  each  lock  in  Manto  canal,  show  at  No.  1 — air,  70°; 
water,  00°.  No.  2 — air,  68°;  water,  60°.  No.  3 — air,  64°;  water, 
59°.  The  distance  to  the  head  of  navigation  is  about  half  a mile, 
though  the  workmen  say  more  than  a mile.  An  Englishman  has  been 
engaged  here  of  late  years,  and  after  spending  much  time  with  little 


MINES TRADE. 


97 


gain,  has  left.  Manto,  with  all  its  machinery,  stands  a ruin.  The  mine 
is  falling  in ; the  canal-boats  leak ; the  engine  is  rusting,  and  the  last 
boat-load  of  silver  ore  was  scattered  over  the  ground.  I am  told  that 
the  vein  has  been  gradually  decreasing  in  richness  as  the  expensive 
works  have  been  going  on.  The  machinery  was  brought  from  England, 
and  transported  over  the  mountains  from  the  coast  on  mules’  backs,  at 
great  expense. 

The  necessity  of  bringing  proper  workmen  with  the  machinery  is  also 
costly.  Provision  is  scarce  in  Puno,  and  people  from  other  parts  of  the 
country  complain  of  the  market.  Thick  clothing  is  required  in  this 
climate,  and  tailoring  appears  to  be  the  best  business.  Englishmen  are 
generous  in  their  expenditures  on  machinery  and  preparations  for  mining. 
There  certainly  has  been  a great  deal  of  labor  expended  at  the  Manto 
mine.  There  are  a number  of  other  mines  in  this  department,  and  some 
in  this  neighborhood;  but,  with  the  exception  of  the  gold  mines  of 
Carabaya,  there  is  very  little  profit  gained  under  the  present  system  of 
management. 

The  annual  yield  of  silver  in  the  departments  of  Huancavelica,  Aya- 
cucho,  Cuzco,  and  Puno,  has  been  decreasing  for  some  time.  The  custom 
has  been  to  abandon  the  mine  as  soon  as  the  chisel  struck  below  the 
water-liDe,  and  seek  for  a new  vein ; until  now,  when  we  w'ant  silver 
more  than  ever,  it  is  all  under  water.  There  are  few  new  discoveries 
made,  and  mining  seems  to  have  become,  year  after  year,  a less  profit- 
able business.  Merchants  are  afraid  to  advance  large  sums  of  money, 
lest  it  may  be  lost  by  the  vein  running  out,  leaving  expensive  machinery 
on  their  hands.  Yet  there  is  undoubtedly  immense  riches  in  the  different 
metals  of  these  departments,  which  might  be  extracted  after  a scientific 
exploration  of  the  country,  and  with  a judicious  system  of  mining. 

From  what  we  see,  there  is  no  reason  to  expect  so  large  an  amount 
of  silver  to  flow  from  South  Peru  as  heretofore.  The  creole  portion  of 
the  population  shrink  from  all  kinds  of  labor ; they  sit  at  the  mouth  of 
the  mines  to  receive  the  silver,  and  live  a life  of  ease  upon  it.  To  the 
poor  Indian  mining  is  an  harassing  labor.  He  seldom  reveals  to  the 
creole  any  new  discovery ; he  never  seeks  wrork  at  the  mine,  but  turns 
to  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  in  the  congenial  climate  of  the  valleys ; 
tends  his  flocks  on  the  mountain-side,  where  he  is  better  fed  and  clothed, 
and  w'here  his  wild  and  honest  feelings  are  gratified.  The  wool  of  sheep 
and  silver  are  the  chief  exports  from  these  departments.  Besides  Peru- 
vian bark,  copper,  alpaca  wool,  vicuna  skins,  matico,  gold,  hides,  and 
chinchilla  skins,  there  were  exported  last  year  over  five  hundred  thou- 
sand quintals  of  nitrate  of  soda  from  the  seaport  of  Arica. 

7 


93 


SHORES  OF  TITICACA. 


The  mail  from  Puno  to  Callao  goes  by  the  English  steamer  from 
Ysfay  in  eight  (lays,  leaving  Puno  every  two  weeks.  The  creole  portion 
of  the  population  is  not  very  great,  except  in  the  army.  There  is  a 
college  of  science  and  art  here,  like  that  of  Cuzco.  We  found  the  boys 
practising  the  broad-sword  exercise  with  single  sticks. 

In  the  larger  towns  the  government  has  established  public  schools.  In 
this  department  there  are  sixtv-three  for  boys  and  three  for  girls.  In 
these  schools  Indian  children  are  admitted  and  taught  as  well  as  the 
creoles.  There  are  few  African  slaves  in  South  Peru. 

The  country  is  over  populated ; I mean  for  the  productive  portions  of 
the  land.  There  are  many  square  miles  in  these  departments  barren  and 
unproductive,  unpopulated,  and  utterly  worthless,  so  far  as  cultivation 
goes,  though  they  may  contain  great  mineral  wealth.  The  inhabitants 
are  confined  to  the  valleys  among  the  mountains,  which  are  generally 
narrow,  and  crops  are  principally  raised  by  irrigation.  The  Puna 
country  is  higher,  and  better  adapted  to  wool  growing,  but  very  thinly 
peopled.  There  are  many  places  so  high  above  the  level  of  the  sea  that 
people  cannot  live  there  with  any  sort  of  comfort,  nor  can  they  gather 
from  the  earth  a living.  The  ant  will  die  an  unnatural  death,  placed 
where  the  llama  naturally  lives  and  flouris^s.  The  llama,  again,  will 
perish  with  heat  where  the  ant  builds  its  nest.  In  the  deep  valleys 
are  the  most  children,  the  greatest  amount  of  vegetable  life,  and  more 
of  the  animals  known  in  different  parts  of  the  world,  such  as  the  horse, 
horned  cattle,  domestic  cats,  dogs,  bees,  and  humming  birds. 

People  have  said  that  the  population  of  these  departments  do  not 
increase  in  proportion  to  the  increase  in  northern  portions  of  the  world, 
and  ask,  why  it  is.  People  upon  the  Andes  do  not  multiply  if  they  do 
not  seek  the  rich  lands. 

As  we  ride  along1  the  shores  of  Lake  Titicaca,  the  Indians  are  seen 
sucking  the  juice  from  the  lake  rush  ; they  also  make  salad  of  it.  The 
cattle  and  horses  wade  up  to  their  backs  in  mud  and  water  after  it. 
The  sheep  who  seem,  here  in  their  native  soil,  glad  to  get  a bite  of  some- 
thing green,  run  down  from  the  parched  hills,  and  feed  along  shore. 
The  hog,  too,  comes  in  for  his  share.  The  whole  animal  kingdom  run 
to  the  lake  for  a living.  It  is  a written  invitation  to  navigation  aud  cul- 
tivation. The  mountainous  parts  of  Peru  are  very  dry. 

November  15,  1853. — At  1 p.  m.,  half  the  heavens  are  covered  with 
cumulus  clouds.  Air,  56°;  lake  water,  64°.  Thunder  to  the  northward, 
and  rain  falling  there  ; the  east  wind  blows  fresh.  The  beach  is  of  gray 
sand,  and  in  places  muddy  swamp.  The  rush  grows  along  shore.  Here 
and  there  the  lake  is  shoal  to  the  nearest  island,  about  a mile  off.  The 


ANIMALS AYMARA  INDIANS. 


99 


rush  grows  thick  on  these  shoals,  which  gives  them  a meadow-like  ap- 
pearance. 

The  road  lies  along  the  foot  of  the  hills,  very  near  to  the  water. 
There  are  a few  potatoes  planted  in  the  sand  ; the  patches  extend  to  the 
road,  which  is  just  at  high-water  mark  in  the  wet  season.  The  potato 
plant  is  the  only  water  gauge  available ; wherever  the  ground  allows,  the 
Indian  carries  his  row,  far  from  the  rocky  base  of  the  hills,  towards  the 
lake,  and  the  height  of  the  eastern  edge  of  his  potato  patch,  above  the 
level  of  the  lake,  is  one  foot.  The  potatoes  are  just  coming  up,  sometimes 
accompanied  by  beans.  A pig’s  tail  was  seen  sticking  out,  as  he  had 
rooted  down  after  the  seed.  The  potatoes  are  small,  but  good. 

The  blue-winged  teal,  black  diver,  white  and  black  gulls,  feed  in  the 
water.  Large  and  small  snipe  skim  along  the  beach  before  us ; while 
the  tall  white  crane,  with  .beautiful  pink  wings,  legs  and  tail,  with  a 
black  bridged  bill,  proudly  strolls  through  the  water.  Green  rushes  and 
different  colored  feathers  present  a refreshing  contrast  to  the  dry  rocks 
and  dusty  hills.  In  the  small  gullies  may  be  seen  a scrubby  bush,  some 
dry  tufts  of  grass,  and  by  very  close  search  we  did  succeed  in  adding 
twro  specimens  of  flowers  to  our  small  botanical  collection,  which  we 
hoped  to  have  reported.  ^ 

The  Indians  are  going  to  town  to  celebrate  the  birth-day  of  the  Pre- 
sident of  the  Republic  ; old  men  are  mounted  on  stunted  little  horses  ; 
young  ones  carry  drums,  fifes,  and  large  feathered  head-dresses,  of  pink 
and  white,  plucked  from  the  crane;  while  the  old  women  carry  babies 
slung  in  cotton  ponchos  over  their  shoulders.  The  young  girls  bring 
provisions;  and  donkeys  loaded  with  live  chickens,  to  be  sold  in  the  plaza, 
jog  along  ahead  of  the  families.  On  the  lake  a rush  balsa,  with  a rush 
mat  for  a sail,  loaded  with  fish  and  potatoes,  presses  on  to  meet  the  load 
of  the  donkey.  An  old  woman  is  at  the  helm,  which  is  a long  pole  ; 
the  wind  seems  a little  too  fresh  for  her  ; as  she  broaches  to,  her  sail 
lifts,  she  loses  command,  and  has  to  pole  out  of  the  rushes.  The  land 
party  laugh  at  her,  but  she  pushes  and  works  with  a will,  though  the 
heaving  and  setting  of  the  craft  makes  it  rather  wret  work,  she  finally 
smoothly  sails  into  port. 

From  the  small  town  of  Chuiento  we  see  the  snow-capped  mountains 
in  Bolivia,  on  the  other  side  of  the  lake— the  loftiest  mountains  in  the 
New  World  ; with  their  silvery  heads  they  cool  the  eastern  winds;  we 
are  bewildered  amidst  these  great  works,  while  looking  on  with  awe. 
Jose  cannot  understand  the  language  of  these  Indians.  We  are  among 
the  Aymara  tribe,  who  were  subdued  by  Capac  Tupanqui,  the  fifth 
Inca,  but  never  adopted  the  Quichua  language.  Jose  thinks  there  is 


ioo 


PASSPORTS. 


little  use  in  going  among  people  that  we  cannot  talk  to.  He  says  that 
his  countrymen  have  often  told  him  these  people  are  very  savage,  or 
they  might  speak  Spanish  or  Quichua ! Richards  tried  English,  but  it 
was  of  no  avail ; they  only  laughed ! Their  manners,  customs,  dress, 
and  general  appearance  is  nearly  the  same  as  those  of  the  Quichua 
tribes.  The  women  are  a little  more  chunky  and  rather  better  featured ; 
they  are  cheerful,  and  they  look  up  more — the  usual  effect  of  beauty 
all  the  world  over.  The  men  chew  less  coca,  are  stronger  for  it,  and 
have  a much  more  healthy  appearance  than  the  men  of  Cuzco.  As  far 
as  I can  see,  there  is  very  little  sickness  about  Lake  Titicaca. 

The  governor  of  the  town  sent  to  the  post-house  for  our  passports; 
they  seem  to  be  very  particular  with  persons  going  south ; he  read,  signed, 
and  returned  it  by  the  postman.  Inquisitive  people  go  to  the  governor’s 
house  on  an  arrival,  and  after  he  reads  the  passport  he  passes  it  round. 
This  is  the  way  the  arrivals  are  published  here.  On  one  occasion  I un- 
intentionally offended  a roomful  of  men,  by  pocketing  my  papers  as 
soon  as  the  proper  person  had  read  them.  It  is  the  custom  for  travel- 
lers to  present  and  read  each  other’s  passports  on  the  road ; you  thus 
tell  your  nation,  occupation,  whence  you  came,  and  your  destination — 
a very  good  foundation  for  a travelling  #nversation.  Through  the 
United  States  charge  d’affaires  in  Lima,  passports  from  the  government 
of  Peru  to  all  prefects  in  the  departments  through  which  I passed  in 
South  Peru  overtook  me.  Passports  from  the  supreme  government  are 
rare  in  these  inland  towns,  and  are  read  with  the  more  interest. 

The  post-houses  are  becoming  more  respectable ; some  of  them  are 
papered,  and  near  the  bed  and  on  the  seats  pieces  of  carpets  are  laid. 
The  postmen  are  white  creoles,  with  pretty  wives ; and  the  arrieros  are 
dignified  as  postillions.  Passing  through  the  towns  of  Ocora  and  Ylave, 
we  put  up  at  Juli,  which  is  situated,  like  the  other  towns  along  the  lake, 
on  a knoll  with  a perpendicular  bank,  rough  and  rocky,  standing  out 
into  the  water.  The  lofty  Nevada  de  Sorata  is  in  full  view,  said  to  be 
25,380  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

November  17, 1851. — At  mid-day,  air  51°  ; lake  water  65° ; wind  east, 
right  off  the  snow  ridge  opposite ; temperature  of  a spring  54°.  After 
leaving  Juli  the  road  turned  among  the  hills  to  the  right.  We  passed 
the  night  at  Tambilla  post-house,  which  stands  alone  at  the  base  of  the 
hills  between  us  and  the  lake,  inhabited  by  the  postman,  his  postillions, 
and  some  Indian  women  cooks,  who  made  us  mutton  soup,  with  pota- 
toes. The  plain  is  alive  with  cattle,  sheep,  llamas,  horses,  mules,  and 
jackasses.  The  pasture  is  somewhat  fresher.  The  wind  draws  through 
the  valley  from  the  north  and  is  uncomfortably  cold. 


VIEW  Of  NEVADA  DE  SORATA, 


RIO  DESAGUEDERO. 


101 


An  Indian  spade  was  leaning  against  the  door-post,  and  while  Rich- 
ards stood  intently  looking  at  it,  with  his  hands  in  his  pockets,  the  In- 
dians were  closely  watching  him  and  talking  to  each  other,  as  though 
surprised  a spade  should  attract  so  much  attention.  At  the  end  of  a 
crooked  stick  of  wood  a rude  iron  plate,  narrow  and  long,  was  fastened 
by  a strip  of  raw  hide ; near  the  lashing  was  fastened,  also  in  the  same 
way,  a cow’s  horn,  on  which  the  digger  placed  his  foot.  This  spade  is 
used  for  digging  the  soil  on  the  side  of  the  hill  where  the  plough  and 
oxen  cannot  go.  In  the  wet  lowlands  long  poles,  shod  with  small  iron 
plates,  are  used.  One  man  pushes  his  pole  into  the  earth,  another  puts 
in  crosswise,  and  while  they  both  pry  up,  a third,  on  his  knees,  turns 
the  sod  over  with  his  hands.  In  this  way  they  ridge  the  meadows  and 
sow  on  the  polled  ground.  The  barley  comes  to  head  with  very  long 
beards,  but  bears  no  grain. 

From  the  small  town  of  Zepita  the  contrast  between  the  snow-capped 
mountains  to  the  east  and  the  dark  blue  waters  of  the  lake  is  remark- 
able. Here  we  succeeded  in  bottling  two  fish  from  the  lake,  without 
scales,  about  eight  inches  long,  designed  for  Professor  Agassiz. 

The  town  of  Desaguedero  has  a population  of  five  hundred.  At  11 
a.  m.  we  arrived,  and  foui^l  the  governor  busily  employed  at  a fish 
breakfast.  He  was  a cheerful,  fat,  polite,  three-quarter-blooded  Indian. 
In  return  for  fish  we  gave  him  our  passports ; after  reading  them,  he 
ordered  the  Indian  servant  to  fetch  a bottle  of  lea  wine.  As  he  drew 
the  cork  he  told  me  the  Indians  believed  Lake  Titicaca  emptied  its 
waters  into  the  Pacific  ocean  by  a subterraneous  passage  under  the  Cor- 
dillera range.  They  had  found  the  Titicaca  rush  lying  on  the  coast 
near  Cobija,  which  differed  essentially  from  weeds  growing  in  salt  water. 
A difference  of  opinion  seemed  to  arouse  him,  and  he  said  : “ There  are 
more  than  twenty  different  streams  of  water  flowing  from  the  mountain 
sides  into  this  Titicaca  basin,  and  not  one  has  been  seen  flowing  out; 
now,  if  I keep  pouring  wine  into  this  cup,  it  will  overflow  and  run  down 
the  sides,  won’t  it  ?”  Provided  you  do  not  drink  it  up  as  the  sun  does 
the  waters,  we  answered. 

After  breakfast  the  governor  walked  to  the  river  Desaguedero  with 
us.  This  river  is  the  southeastern  boundary  line  of  Peru.  We  were 
detained  a short  time  at  the  bridge  to  allow  one  hundred  unloaded 
llamas  to  pass  from  Bolivia  to  Peru.  Rush  balsas  are  secured  side  by 
side,  bridge  fashion,  and  a quantity  of  rushes  piled  upon  them.  They 
are  kept  in  place  by  large  rope  cables  fastened  on  each  side  of  the  river 
to  a stone  foundation.  The  distance  from  the  shore  of  Peru  to  the 
Bolivian  side  is  fifty  yards.  The  river  three  fathoms  deep  under  the 


102 


LAKE  TITICACA. 


bridge,  with  a current  three-quarters  of  a mile  per  hour  running  south. 
The  color  of  the  wrater  is  blue;  it  is  fresh  and  cool — temperature 
of  60°;  the  Indians  drink  it  here.  This  is  the  only  stream  flowing  out 
of  Lake  Titicaca.  After  running  southwardly  some  eighty  leagues,  the 
water  spreads  over  a flat,  forming  what  is  called  Lake  Pampas  Aullagas, 
from  which  there  is  no  flow  into  either  ocean. 

We  were  told  that  in  the  year  1846  there  were  heavy  rains  to  the 
south  of  Desaguedero;  the  river  flowed  for  thirty  days  north  into  Lake 
Titicaca ; with  that  exception  it  is  reported  to  flow  as  we  sawr  it. 

In  the  rainy  season  the  river  rises  about  nin<^feet,  the  rapid  current 
often  sweeps  away  the  bridge ; at  the  same  time  the  flats  on  both  sides 
of  the  river  are  overflowed.  The  width  of  the  Desaguedero  valley,  at 
the  outlet  from  the  lake,  is  three-quarters  of  a mile,  nearly  all  over- 
flowed in  the  rainy  season  by  the  waters  seeking  an  escape  between  the 
small  hills  on  both  sides. 

At  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Titicaca  the  water  is  clearer,  sweeter, 
and  eooler,  than  it  is  on  the  north  side.  There  is  no  offensive  odor 
from  the  lake  here.  There  are  nine  kinds  of  fish  caught  near  the  outlet, 
and  as  many  of  water  fowl.  Fish  are  found  on  the  tables,  while  in  Puno 
they  are  seldom  used.  We  know  on  the  ibean  that  currents  of  warm 
wmter  pass  through  cold  vrnter  like  oil,  refusing  to  mingle.  The  streams 
of  cold  water  are  quite  as  exclusive. 

When  Lake  Titicaca  is  at  its  lowest  it  receives  more  water  from  the 
snow  peaks  on  its  eastern  shore,  than  from  any  other  source  during  the 
dry  season.  As  the  snow  streams  are  generally  clear,  we  concluded  the 
cold  water  runs  through  the  lake  in  streams  towards  the  outlet.  In  the 
wet  season,  as  the  muddy  streams  till  up  the  lake,  they  deposit  their 
loads  of  earthy  matter  on  the  western  and  northern  side,  which  disturb 
animal  life.  The  fish  seek  a quiet  retreat  and  are,  therefore,  found  more 
plentifully  on  the  southern  and  eastern  sides  of  the  lake. 

All  the  dead  rushes,  driven  by  the  east  winds  to  the  west  side,  lodge 
on  the  flats  and  beach,  manure  the  dry  places,  and  deposit  their  seed ; 
more  rushes  grow  there  to  catch  the  sediment  as  the  water  filters 
through.  Year  after  year  the  growth  dies  off,  breaks  down,  and  helps 
the  upward  levelling  law.  The  rush  grows  from  six  to  eight  feet  long. 
It  is  called  totora  by  the  Indians.  The  stalk  is  of  the  size  and  shaped 
like  the  blade  of  a bayonet,  with  a head  and  flower  resembling  clusters 
of  ripe  buckwheat.  It  supplies  the  place  of  wood,  iron,  canvass,  and 
greens.  The  Indians  were  taught  by  the  Incas  to  make  bridges  of  it, 
over  wLich  they  passed  their  armies;  besides  their  boats  and  sails, 
houses  and  beds  are  sometimes  made  of  it.  An  old  Indian  was  seen  re- 


REPUBLIC  OF  BOLIVIA. 


103 


freshing  himself  with  the  juice  at  one  end  of  a stalk,  while  his  little  child 
tickled  another  one’s  nose,  and  made  it  laugh  with  the  flower.  Such  is 
the  value  and  uses  of  this  wild  vegetable  production. 

We  cannot  understand  why  the  population  of  those  mountains  have 
not  cleared  more  lands  at  the  base  of  the  Andes,  where  their  children 
would  find  beautiful  flowers,  and  the  men  the  real  sugar-stalk ; where 
they  might  tickle  their  noses  with  the  fragrance  from  rich  pine-apples 
and  oranges,  and  where  their  tables  might  be  loaded  with  the  choicest 
vegetable  productions.  At  the  headwaters  of  the  Madre-de-Dios  Peru 
has  a garden,  but  the  lands  in  all  directions  seem  almost  a desert. 

When  Pizarro  came  with  his  followers,  they  found  the  mountains  filled 
with  silver ; they  helped  themselves,  and  the  Indians  assisted  them  in 
doing  so.  Little  or  no  attention  was  paid  by  the  Spaniards  to  the  culti- 
vation of  the  soil,  to  the  manufacture  of  wool,  or  the  commercial  re- 
sources of  the  eastern  country. 

As  we  step  across  the  totora  floating-bridge,  we  feel  grateful  for  the 
many  hospitable  favors  the  kind  people  of  Peru  have  extended  to 
us  as  strangers.  We  shook  hands  with  the  old  Indian  governor,  who 
was  polite  enough  to  introduce  us  to  the  custom-house  officers  and 
military  commander  in  Bolivia.  He  laughed  when  told  he  was  not  a 
good  Inca,  because  he  did  not  believe  that  the  evaporation  was  great 
enough  to  carry  off  all  the  surplus  water  from  Titicaca,  and  that  his 
ancient  deity  drank  the  water  from  this  uplifted  basin,  and  kept  it  from 
overflowing.  He<  lit  his  paper  cigar,  and  wanted  to  know  when  we  were 
coming  back. 

There  are  only  three  or  four  government  houses  in  sight  on  the  Boliv- 
ian side  of  the  river.  The  military  commandant  was  very  civil ; he  re- 
quested the  custom-house  officer  to  let  us  off  easy,  saying  “ they  came  to 
serve  our  country.”  The  baggage  was  all  taken  off  the  backs  of  the 
mules ; one  or  two  trunks  examined.  The  commander  took  great  interest 
in  our  instruments  ; a woman  in  her  riding  dress  begged  permission  to  ex- 
amine a needle  and  thread  case  which  struck  her  fancy  ; she  seemed  to 
think  it  hard  that  a man  had  to  do  his  own  sewing. 

Our  road,  dusty,  rocky,  and  rough,  lay  along  the  southern  shore  of 
the  lake.  On  the  right  were  dry,  barren  hills ; on  the  left,  deep  blue 
waters ; and  ahead,  the  heavy  snow-capped  range  of  the  Andes,  looked 
as  though  their  weight  was  too  much  for  the  world  to  bear.  The  noon- 
day sun  is  hot,  but  the  east  wind  blows  in  our  faces  from  among  the 
snow  peaks,  which  may  be  called  the  South  American  fan. 

The  winds  from  the  Atlantic  ocean  rapidly  run  through  the  ravines 
and  gorges  of  the  great  mountain  range.  The  eternal  glaciers  cool  the 
tropical  atmosphere.  Our  animals  travel  with  ease ; as  they  breathe  the 


104 


WHIRLWINDS. 


refreshing  breezes,  they  seem  full  of  life  and  ready  for  a long  journey, 
even  after  their  day’s  work  is  over.  These  easterly  winds  on  the  table 
lands  of  Bolivia  meet  currents  of  air  from  the  hills  and  mountain  valleys. 
The  different  streams  form  whirlwinds,  which  draw  the  dust  under  our 
mules’  noses,  and  run  it  up  to  the  cumulus  clouds  above,  where  the  dust 
seems  to  float  about  in  the  air.  Some  of  these  dust  columns  are  of 
immense  height,  standing  for  many  minutes,  like  waterspouts  of  the 
ocean.  Infusoria,  found  in  the  blood,  rains,  and  sea  dust  of  the  Cape 
de  Verde  islands,  resemble  that  found  on  the  Andes,  in  Venezuela.  A 
scientific  examination  of  this  dusty  road  may  possibly  compare  with  a 
similar  one  in  the  southern  parts  of  Africa.  Tnere  is  a battle-ground 
not  far  south  of  us,  where  there  were  left  a number  of  dead,  whose  dust 
is  carried  heavenward  by  these  winds. 

Persons  have  seen  hundreds  of  waterspouts  standing  on  the  water  of 
the  lake  at  one  time,  as  though  the  columns  were  supporting  the  weight 
of  the  clouds.  The  Indians’  balsas  are  built  with  so  much  beam,  and 
being  a bundle  of  rushes,  shaped  like  a canoe  before  it  is  dug  out,  that 
the  falling  of  one  of  the  waterspouts  only  washes  the  dust  off  the  Indians 
as  they  pass  through  this  wonderful  phenomenon.  We  are  nearly  suf- 
focated at  times  with  the  whirling  up  of  the  dust  all  around  us. 

As  we  entered  the  small  town  of  Huaqui,  a man  in  uniform  came  out 
into  the  street,  and  requested  to  see  my  passport.  He  said  he  was  not 
the  governor,  but  the  military  commander.  He  w’as  informed  that  wre 
had  none ; we  had  not  met  with  his  government.  As  he  assured  us 
Peruvian  papers  were  sufficient,  they  were  handed  over.  Upon  being 
returned,  we  received  a pressing  invitation  to  remain  in  his  house  and 
take  coffee;  but  as  Jose  had  prepared  tea  for  us  in  advance,  the  comman- 
der joined  us.  He  was  a young  man  in  a soldier’s  coat,  which  seemed 
to  have  seen  sendee  before  he  was  born.  It  is  amusing  to  see  how  much 
uncomfortable  time  a man  can  spend  in  a tight-fitting  uniform,  on  the 
arrival  of  strangers.  Outward  show  seems  to  be  the  sole  object  with 
the  creole  portion  of  the  population.  This  man’s  employment  is  to  read 
all  passports  of  persons  passing  through  this  town,  and  he  seems  to  be 
the  only  active  business  man  in  the  place.  He  may  be  seen,  long  before 
the  traveller  arrives,  standing  in  the  street  ready  to  demand,  with  a bold 
front,  the  license  to  walk  or  ride  about  over  ground  not  crowrded  with 
population  or  vegetation.  We  change  mules  at  Tiahuanaco. 

To  the  northwest  of  us,  and  a little  south  of  the  centre  of  Lake  Titi- 
caca, is  situated  the  Island  of  Titicaca,  from  which  Manco  Capac  and 
his  wife  travelled  to  Cuzco.  He  was  a navigator.  The  Island  of 
Titicaca  is  surrounded  by  the  Aymara  tribe  of  Indians,  whose  language 


TIAHUANACO  RUINS. 


105 


was  not  understood  by  Jose,  who  spoke  Quickua  as  well  as  his  own. 
The  valley  of  Cuzco  is  the  first  inviting  spot  to  the  northwest  of  this  lake, 
and  the  road  from  it  to  Cuzco  is  level  enough  for  a railroad.  Manco 
Capac  and  his  wife  were  carried  by  east  winds,  which  blow  every  day 
across  the  lake,  to  the  western  shore,  and  travelled  on  foot  the  road  we 
took  between  Cuzco  and  Puno,  according  to  Indian  tradition.  Among 
the  scattered  stone  remains  of  the  ancient  edifices  of  Tiahuanaco,  we  ob- 
served no  resemblance  to  the  stone-work  of  Cuzco,  and  were  surprised 
to  find  that,  although  the  ruins  were  in  such  a dilapidated  state  as  not 
to  enable  us  to  make  out  the  character  of  the  structure,  we  could  per- 
ceive, and  were  convinced  of  the  higher  order  of  mechanical  art  over 
that  displayed  in  Cuzco.  The  stones,  immense  in  size,  were  hewn 
square ; one  of  them  had  an  arched  way  cut  in  it  large  enough  to  drive 
a mule  through. 

The  cura  of  the  town  told  us  there  were  no  stone  to  be  found  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  same  sort,  and  that  he  did  not  know  whence  they 
had  been  brought.  We  have  reason  to  believe  Manco  Capac  had 
nothing  to  do  with  the  ancient  works  of  Tiahuanaco.  Both  the  hewing 
of  the  stone  and  structure*  of  the  language  of  the  people  are  different 
from  his,  though  his  first  appearance  was  among  these  people. 

We  have  faith  in  the  peculiarities  of  the  winds  to  aid  the  great  -work 
of  populating  distant  portions  of  the  earth.  The  northeast  trade-winds 
of  the  North  Atlantic  ocean  are  fair  winds  for  the  emigrants  of  Europe 
to  North  and  South  America;  and  the  southeast  trade-winds  in  the  south 
Atlantic  ocean  hasten  the  passage  of  the  African  to  Brazil,  the  West 
India  islands,  and  the  shores  of  North  America.  Ships  sailing  around 
Cape  Horn  are  headed  off  sometimes  a month  by  the  westerly  gales. 
We  are  disposed  to  chart  Manco  Capac  and  his  wife’s  track  by  the 
the  instrumentality  of  winds  in  the  South  Pacific  ocean,  from  the  far 
West  to  the  Bay  of  Arica. 

At  the  gateway,  near  a Catholic  church,  was  standing  two  heavy 
stone  idols,  with  their  hands  crossed  on  their  navels,  as  though  there 
had  been — as  is  now — a scarcity  of  food. 

Tiahuanaco  is  a small  town,  situated  upon  a rise,  in  a wide  valley, 
with  a long  view  to  the  east.  The  ruins  are  close  to  the  town,  and 
from  the  level  low  ground  towards  the  lake,  no  doubt  the  palace  was 
originally  built  upon  the  shore,  now  out  of  sight.  By  a rough  calcula- 
tion, Lake  Titicaca  contains  three  thousand  square  miles.  While  we 
look  upon  the  parched  hills  and  table-lands  on  the  one  hand,  and  eternal 
ice  on  the  other,  it  would  seem  this  basin  of  ice-water  was  uplifted  more 
than  twelve  thousand  feet  above  the  ocean,  for  the  daily  use  of  the  sun 


106 


LA  PAZ. 


as  lie  passes.  The  evaporation  is  great,  from  the  numerous  streams 
which  llow  into  the  lake ; and  was  the  wet  season  withheld  awhile,  the 
basin  would  be  emptied;  but  the  precipitation  and  evaporation  are  now 
equipoised.  As  the  lake  is  at  its  lowest,  the  rains  will  soon  commence 
and  fill  it  up  again. 

As  the  sun  passes  on  south,  he  draws  the  rain-belt  after  him.  He  is 
now  nearly  vertical.  When  he  completes  his  tour  to  the  north  of  the 
equator,  he  returns  next  year  to  find  Titicaca  brimful,  which  is  evapo- 
rated before  the  rains  commence  again.  AVere  it  not  for  the  flooding 
of  the  lake  every  year,  we  might  find  the  water  salt  instead  of  fresh. 

We  leave  Lake  Titicaca  for  the  dry  table-lands  of  Bolivia.  On  the 
road-side,  at  the  base  of  the  Sorata  range,  we  halted  to  look  at  the  In- 
dians plough  in  their  potatoes.  The  women  were  the  planters.  They 
plant  the  small  potatoes  of  last  year  whole,  instead  of  cutting  the  larger 
ones  for  seed.  We  attempted  to  explain  to  one  of  the  women  why  she 
always  raised  such  small  potatoes ; but  she  evidently  misunderstood 
us.  Running  off  to  the  end  of  the  row,  where  there  was  a large  earthen 
jar,  she  returned  with  a cup  of  chicha. 

At  Tambillo  post-house,  after  passing  the  night,  the  postman  was 
disposed  to  charge  us  double.  His  mules,  like  himself,  look  very  poor. 
Half  a dozen  old  houses  stood  out  on  the  plain,  with  nothing  about  them 
to  admire  but  the  lofty  snow-peaks.  I hired  mules  to  take  us  all  the 
way  to  La  Paz,  but  at  Lapa  they  gave  out.  The  postillions  had  them 
changed  in  the  post-house,  and  wanted  to  continue  with  the  fresh 
mules ; but  the  Lapa  postillions  objected  ; and  as  ours  refused  to  pay 
them  that  part  of  the  fare  which  had  been  advanced,  the  subject  was 
debated  in  the  middle  of  the  patio.  A very  respectable-looking  old 
Indian  walked  in,  and  after  speaking  some  time  to  the  parties,  our  men 
paid,  and  we  pushed  on  over  the  plain,  in  company  with  Indians  and 
loaded  jackasses  on  their  way  to  market,  and  droves  of  unloaded  mules 
on  their  return  towards  the  coast,  after  having  brought  in  loads  of 
foreign  manufactures. 

Suddenly  arriving  at  the  edge  of  a deep  ravine,  we  saw  the  tile-roofs 
of  the  city  of  La  Taz,  near  the  base  of  the  great  snow-capped  mountain, 
Illimani.  Descending  by  a steep,  narrow  road,  and  passing  the  ceme- 
tery, the  air  was  found  loaded  with  the  perfume  of  sweet  flowers. 
Springs  of  fresh  water  gushed  out  by  the  road-side,  into  which  our  mules 
sunk  their  noses  before  we  could  get  a drink.  As  we  entered  the  town, 
some  one  called  out  from  a shaded  piazza  for  our  passports.  We  kept  on, 
answering  we  had  none  for  Bolivia;  but  on  looking  back,  a man  was  seen 
stopping  our  baggage,  which  was  a pretty  effectual  way  of  bringing  us  to. 


LA  PAZ. 


107 


After  showing  our  Peruvian  papers,  an  Indian  was  sent  with  us  to  the 
custom-house,  and  the  police  officer  directed  the  man  to  show  me  the 
house  of  the  gentleman  to  whom  I had  letters  of  introduction. 

The  most  tiresome  and  troublesome  part  of  the  journey  is  the  day  of 
arrival  in  a large  town,  where  we  generally  remain  long  enough  to  rest 
and  pick  up  information.  There  are  no  hotels  to  which  a traveller  may 
go  and  make  himself  independently  comfortable.  Walking  into  a man’s 
private  house,  bag  and  baggage,  and  handing  him  a letter  of  introduc- 
tion, which  plainly  expresses  that  the  bearer  has  come  to  make  his 
house  his  home,  is  the  custom  of  the  country.  We  entered  the  most 
elegant  house  I saw  in  South  America. 

The  gentleman  of  the  house  was  not  at  home  ; he  was  engaged  su- 
perintending the  Indians  at  the  gold  mines  and  washings  of  Tipuani, 
situated  north  of  La  Paz,  ou  a tributary  of  the  river  Beni,  and  to  the 
east  of  the  Sorata  mountains.  Ilis  daughter  received  the  letter,  smok- 
ing a large  cigar,  and  invited  us  to  join.  Her  husband  was  prefect  of 
the  province  of  Yungas,  where  is  gathered  the  best  cinchona  bark.  As 
it  was  Saturday,  and  4 o’clock,  the  officers  had  left  the  custom-house, 
and  the  baggage  could  not  be  examined  before  Monday  morning.  Not- 
withstanding the  lady  of  the  house  sent  our  letters  to  the  prefect,  and 
asked  that  we  might  have  our  clothing-.  We  were  in  a house  with  four 
young  ladies  and  no  gentleman,  so  there  was  a poor  chance  of  borrowing. 

The  party  was  a good  deal  sun-burnt,  dusted,  and  harassed  over  the 
hot  plains  since  leaving  Cuzco,  and  all  well  tired  out.  Richards  suffered, 
though  he  stood  the  travel  better  than  was  expected.  Jose’s  beard  had 
grown,  and  he  had  pulled  an  old  white  hat  about  so  much  to  get  it  on 
the  sunny  side  of  his  head,  that  he  at  once  applied  for  part  of  his  wages 
to  purchase  a new  one.  When  we  arrive,  Jose  always  goes  at  once  to 
pay  his  respects  to  the  lady  of  the  house,  and  through  him  a general 
sketch  of  our  duties  and  characters  are  obtained.  IIo  is  so  polite,  and 
of  such  an  obliging  disposition,  that  he  seems  to  attract  attention 
wherever  he  goes.  He  is  fond  of  travelling,  and,  for  so  old  a person, 
bears  his  part  well,  sleeps  sound,  and  enjoys  good  health. 

La  Paz,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  Bolivia,  has  a population  of 
42,849.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  department,  which  has  a population  of 
90,662  creoles,  and  295,442  Aymara  Indians.  The  small  stream  of 
water  flowing  through  the  city  at  the  bottom  of  the  ravine  may  be 
stepped  across  without  wetting  one’s  feet.  As  it  dashes  down  through 
the  Andes  to  the  eastward,  other  streams  join  it,  and  after  swelling 
out  and  gaining  the  base  of  the  mountains,  it  is  called  the  river  Beni, 
which  flows,  in  a northeast  direction,  through  the  territory  of  Bolivia- 


108 


RIO  BENI — RIO  MADEIRA. 


Some  parts  of  tire  Beni  are  navigated  by  wooden  balsas ; but  there  are 
many  falls,  and  the  river-bed  is  rocky  and  rough,  with  a rapid  current. 
The  Beni  is  not  navigable  for  steamboats.  It  flows  through  the  wild 
forests,  inhabited  by  uncivilized  Indian  tribes.  On  the  tributaries  of 
the  Beni,  gold  is  found,  and  the  best  quality  of  cinchona  bark.  By 
referring  to  the  map,  it  will  be  observed  that  the  tributaries  of  the 
Madre-de-Dios,  in  Peru,  and  those  of  the  Beni,  take  their  rise  very  near 
each  other,  in  a line  between  the  gold-washings  of  Tipuani  and  Cara- 
baya.  The  waters  of  the  formejr  flow  into  the  Amazon,  while  those  of 
the  latter  go  to  the  Maderia  river.  There  is  a ridge  of  mountains  and 
hills  between  them. 

A knot  or  hump  seems  to  be  raised  in  this  part  of  the  back-bone  of 
South  America,  from  which  the  water  flows  in  different  directions.  The 
loftiest  peaks  of  mountains  are  near,  and  the  large  lakes  are  found  here. 
We  see  a'cluster  of  wonders,  frorp  the  hot  springs  of  Agua  Caliente  post- 
house  to  the  frozen  peaks  of  the  Sorata ; extremes  of  heat  and  cold, 
large  mountains,  and  small  streams,  dry  winds,  and  lakes  of  water,  in 
the  richest  gold  region  of  South  America. 

The  Beni  creeps  along  the  ridge  of  mountains  as  though  seeking  an 
outlet  to  the  north.  A passage  letting  the  water  through  into  the 
Amazon  basin  at  the  base  of  the  Andes  would  probably  make  the  Beni 
a tributary  of  the  Madre-de-Dios,  as  it  is  erroneously  laid  down  on  some 
maps.  It  finds  no  outlet  until  it  reaches  the  Madeira,  to  which  it  is 
obliged  to  pay  tribute.  Though  the  waters  of  the  Beni  do  eventually 
find  their  way  to  the  Amazon  through  the  Madeira,  yet  the  Beni,  prop- 
erly speaking,  does  not  flow  through  the  Amazonian  basin,  but  through 
what  we  consider  is  correctly  called  the  Madeira  Plata. 

The  map  will  show  that  all  the  water  flowing  north,  from  the  edge 
of  La  riata  river-basin,  passes  through  this  range  of  hills  at  one  place — 
the  head  of  the  Madeira  river.  The  countries  drained  by  the  tributaries 
of  the  Madeira  comprise  an  area  of  475,200  square  miles — nearly  as 
large  as  the  basin  of  the  Nile,  and  more  extensive  than  either  the  Dan- 
ube or  the  Ganges.  The  Madeira  Plata  is  a step  between  the  Titicaca 
and  Amazon  basins.  It  is  separated  from  the  Titicaca  basin  by  the 
Andes,  and  from  the  Amazon  basin  by  the  range  of  mountains  and  hills 
at  the  foot  of  which  the  Beni  flows.  Its  bottom  is  above  the  bottom  of 
the  Amazon  basin,  and  should  be  treated  of  independent  of  that  water- 
shed. With  the  exception  of  a small  portion,  which  lies  in  the  territory 
of  Brazil,  it  belongs  exclusively  to  Bolivia. 

La  Paz  is  a most  busy  inland  city.  The  blacksmith’s  hammer  is 
heard.  The  large  mercantile  houses  are  well  supplied  with  goods. 


TRANSIT  DUTIES. 


109 


Tbe  plaza  is  free  from  market  people,  for  there  is  a regular  market  house. 
The  dwellings  are  well  built,  of  stone  and  adobe.  The  home  and  for- 
eign trade  appears  to  be  possessed  wTitli  a life  seldom  met  with  in  an 
inland  town,  without  shipping  or  railroads.  The  people  appear  to  be 
active.  There  is  less  lounging  against  the  door-posts.  The  place  has  a 
healthy  appearance. 

There  is  a theatre,  museum,  library,  book  and  cigar  stores,  handsome 
stone  fountains,  well-paved  streets,  hospitable  people,  and  a number  of 
foreigners,  a beautiful  alameda,  where  there  are  lovely  women,  stunted 
apple  trees,  and  sweet  flowers.  The  Illimani  snow-peak  standing  before 
us,  is  a cooler  of  the  tropical  winds  which  pass  over  the  Madeira  Plata. 
Strawberries,  beans,  onions,  barley,  and  lucerne  are  produced  in  the 
ravines,  but  in  very  small  quantities,  as  the  space  is  very  narrow.  What 
attracted  our  attention  among  the  people  were  new  French  bonnets  the 
ladies  were  learning  to  wear,  and  the  new  French  uniform  caps  the 
army  had  just  received  from  Paris;  both  fitted  like  a new  mountain 
saddle,  rather  uneasily. 

In  mid-day,  when  there  is  little  or  no  wind,  the  inhabitants  wear  thin 
clothing ; but  as  soon  as  the  cold  wind  comes  from  the  Illimani,  bringing 
with  it  a shower  of  drizzling  rain,  the  whole  population  change  to  thick 
cloth  clothes.  The  climate  is  very  changeable,  and  a consumption  of 
thick  woollen  and  cotton  cloths  are  required,  as  much  as  thin  cotton 
goods. 

There  is  a police  on  the  lookout  for  passports  in  the  day,  but  I doubt  if 
they  are  as  strict  in  the  performance  of  duty  at  night.  "Wines  and 
spirits  are  the  only  articles  Bolivia  pays  a transit  duty  to  Peru  upon. 
Bolivia  receives  most  foreign  manufactures  through  the  port  of  Arica, 
in  Peru,  and  as  Peru  is  interested  in  the  sale  of  her  home-manufactured 
wine,  she  charges  a transit  duty  upon  all  foreign  wine  introduced  into 
Bolivia  through  her  territory.  Yet,  while  the  duty  and  cost  of  trans- 
portation on  the  backs  of  mules  from  Arica  triples  its  value,  there  seems 
to  be  more  of  this  article  used  in  La  Paz  than  anywhere  else,  to  judge 
from  the  noises  made  in  the  streets  at  night  by  parties  of  men  and 
women,  who  roam  about  dancing  and  singing  to  the  music  of  guitars ; 
some  of  them  play  very  well.  Just  opposite  my  window  there  was  a 
wine  store.  In  the  door-way  was  chained  a young  tiger,  and  I noticed 
that  nearly  all  the  people  who  stopped  to  play  with  the  tiger  entered 
and  paid  transit  duty  to  Peru. 

The  tailors  are  found  seated  along  the  pavements  here  in  great  num- 
bers, but  there  are  fewer  churches  than  generally  in  a city  of  this  size. 
The  man  who  gets  the  contract  to  supply  the  standing  army  of  Bolivia 


110 


PRODUCTIONS  OF  YUNG  AS. 


with  clothing,  accumulates  a large  sum  of  money.  This  is  the  business 
of  importance  in  La  Paz  next  to  that  of  the  trade  in  cinchona  bark. 

The  largest  portion  of  the  department  of  La  Paz  is  situated  on  the 
table-lands,  which,  like  the  hills  and  lofty  mountains  within  its  border, 
produce  a scanty  supply  of  vegetable  growth — ocas,  potatoes,  maize, 
barley,  beans,  and  quinua.  Homed  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep  are  small 
and  few.  The  llama  is  less  used  on  the  level  roads  of  the  Puna  than  on 
the  rough  roads  of  the  mountains  ; mules  are  more  valuable.  The  Indian 
nearly  always  walks  to  town  in  company  with  a jackass.  Except  a little 
dove  dusting  itself  by  the  road-side,  there  are  few  birds  to  be  found ; 
no  snakes  nor  ants;  neither  flowers  nor  trees.  But  that  part  of  the 
department  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Andes — the  province  of 
Yungas — surpasses  other  spots  in  South  America  for  natural  wealth. 

Standing  up  to  his  wrnist  in  the  snows  of  the  Illimani,  amidst  heavy 
storms  of  hail,  with  thunder  and  lightning,  and  a wind  that  dyes  his 
nose  and  ears  scarlet  and  blue  with  cold,  the  traveller  descends  to  the 
east,  plunging  and  tumbling  among  the  drift  banks.  He  passes  sheets 
of  ice  formed  by  the  melting  of  the  snow  at  its  lower  edge,  and  after 
slipping  and  sliding  down  these  glistening  slabs,  he  reaches  a green  sod 
of  grass,  while  the  snow  melts  from  his  clothes  as  he  thaws  in'  the  tropical 
sun.  Behind  him,  above  rages  the  winter  storm ; below  a land  of  flowers 
in  everlasting  summer;  and  far  off  to  the  east,  the  whole  earth  looks 
blue  and  broken  like  the  ocean.  The  drops  of  snow-water  from  his  own 
coat  join  the  trickling  stream  from  the  melting  ice,  and  with  him  they 
move  on  down  the  rugged  mountain.  This  stream,  increasing  as  it 
advances,  is  finally  lost  in  the  waters  of  the  Beni.  He  pulls  off  his 
overcoat,  seats  himself  under  the  shade  of  a bush  surrounded  by  sweet 
flowers;  humming-birds  attract  his  attention,  and  as  he  fans  himself 
with  his  hat,  a swarm  of  bees  interferes  somewhat  with  his  comfort. 

He  soon  reaches  the  shade  of  lofty  trees ; an  old  ring-tailed  monkey 
walks  slowly  along  a limb ; a cunning  little  one  jumps  on  her  back, 
twists  its  tail  round  her  hind  legs,  lays  down  its  head  on  her  back,  sticks 
its  fingernails  into  her  skin,  and  rides  its  mother  off  at  a full  run, 
jumping  from  limb  to  limb  and  from  tree  to  tree;  while  the  father  fol- 
lows after,  chattering  in  a loud  voice  the  alarm  for  a stranger. 

A long  train  of  ants,  disturbed  in  their  march  from  one  side  of  the 
path  to  the  other,  occasionally  afford  the  intruder  a bite  through  the 
stocking.  He  stops  to  change  his  clothes  from  winter  to  summer.  Birds 
of  most  brilliaut  plumage  sing  all  around  him ; some  of  them  scream 
with  joy  as  they  fly  across  the  mountain  torrent ; others  are  seated 
quietly  in  pairs  on  the  branches,  among  the  thick  green  foliage,  as  though 


CINCHONA  BARK. 


Ill 


admiring  or  making  love  to  each  other.  The  forest  stretches  down  the 
side  of  the  Madeira  Plata.  The  woods  are  ornamental  and  dye ; the 
cacao  tree,  from  which  the  best  chocolate  is  made,  grows  wild.  Coffee, 
tobacco,  cotton,  with  all  the  tropical  fruits,  and  the  coca  plant,  are 
cultivated. 

In  the  beds  of  the  streams  grains  of  gold  are  found.  Among  the 
hills  there  are  two  species  of  the  cinchona  bark,  the  best  in  the  world. 
The  forest  is  common  to  all  persons  who  choose  to  employ  themselves 
in  gathering  bark,  and  the  impression  is  that  the  value  of  the  forest  in 
this  article  of  trade  is  annually  decreasing.  The  bark  taken  from  the 
trunk  of  the  tree  “ tabla”  is  the  best;  that  from  the  larger  branches, 
“ charque,”  second  in  quality ; and  that  from  the  smaller  or  upper 
branches,  “ canulo,”  the  least  valuable.  A man  may  cut  two  quintals 
per  day,  which  makes  one  quintal  (one  hundred  pounds)  when  dried 
ready  for  market.  The  woodman  will  sell  it  at  the  stump  of  the  tree  at 
from  eight  to  ten  dollars  the  quintal. 

By  law  of  Congress,  all  bark  gathered  in  Bolivia  must  be  sold  to  a 
company  having  the  monopoly  of  this  trade,  who  pay,  according  to  law, 
the  following  prices  to  the  Yungas  woodsman  for  his  cinchona  bark, 
carried  over  the  lofty  Andes  and  delivered  at  the  bank  in  La  Paz : 
“ tabla,”  sixty  dollars  per  quintal ; “ charque,”  thirty-five  dollars,  and 
“canulo,”  thirty  dollars.  The  company  pay  twenty  five  dollars  per 
quintal  on  “tabla,”  and  eighteen  dollars  upon  “ charque”  and  “canulo,” 
duty  to  the  government. 

The  bark  is  put  up  in  cotton  bales,  each  weighing  one  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds,  covered  with  raw  hide.  Two  bales,  or  three  hundred 
pounds,  being  a mule  load  over  the  Cordilleras  to  the  sea-port  of  Arica, 
where  it  arrives  in  ten  days  from  La  Paz,  paying  a freight  of  twelve 
dollars  per  mule  load,  so  that  a quintal  of  “ tabla”  has  cost  the  company 
eighty-nine  dollars. 

The  price  in  Arica  varies  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars 
per  quintal,  according  to  the  demand  for  quinine  in  fever  and  ague 
countries.  In  1851  it  was  worth  one  hundred  and  ten  dollars  the 
quintal;  in  May,  1852,  it  was  as  low  as  eighty  dollars.  At  Arica  it  is 
shipped,  and  carried  around  Cape  Ilorn,  to  the  chemists  in  the  United 
States  and  Europe,  where  it  is  manufactured,  bottled,  and  some  of  it  re- 
shipped and  sold  in  the  apothecary  stores  of  La  Paz  to  those  who  enter 
the  province  of  Yungas,  where  the  disease  for  which  it  is  intended  as  a 
specific  frequently  prevails.  The  woodsman  pays  for  one  ounce  of 
quinine  the  same  price  he  sold  one  quintal  of  bark  for  at  the  tree. 

Those  who  swallow  quinine  throughout  the  world  are  supposed  to 


112 


GOLD  WASHINGS. 


consume  ten  thousand  quintals  of  cinchona  bark  per  annum.  We  con- 
sider this  a very  low  estimate. 

The  bank  at  La  Paz  has  for  some  years  past  received  as  much  as 
fourteen  thousand  quintals  per  annum,  and  the  government  of  Bolivia 
issued  a decree  or  proscription,  forbidding  the  gathering  of  this  bark  from 
the  1st  January,  1852,  until  the  1st  January,  1854. 

Gold  was  found  in  Yungas  more  than  two  centuries  ago.  The  gold 
mines  and  washings  of  Tipuani  are  worked  with  some  profit  in  the 
present  day,  but  the  wealth  of  the  people  engaged  in  gold  hunting  does 
not  compare  with  that  of  former  times.  Hundreds  of  Indians  were  em- 
ployed, turning  the  Tipuani  stream  from  one  side  of  its  bed  to  the  other 
in  the  dry  season,  and  large  quantities  of  gold  were  collected.  Seven 
gold  mines  are  at  present  worked  in  Yungas,  aud  five  hundred  have  been 
abandoned. 

The  roads  to  Tipuani  are  narrow,  precipitous,  and  in  an  unimproved 
state,  like  most  of  the  roads  into  Yungas.  They  require  an  annual  ex- 
penditure of  money,  after  the  rainy  season,  to  put  them  in  order. 

Merchants  pay  wages  in  advance  to  the  Indians  who  consent  to  enter 
the  mines,  and  provide  them  with  provisions,  which  are  carried  in  on 
mules.  The  expenses  are  very  great  in  comparison  to  the  yield  of  gold. 
The  Indian  is  often  sick,  when  his  wages  and  the  expense  of  feeding  him 
are  lost  to  the  miner ; many  of  them  leave  before  their  time,  so  that  the 
work  of  the  season  is  lost,  the  miner  giving  up  poorer  than  he  com- 
menced. 

Besides  gold,  there  are  silver  mines  in  Yungas  abandoned,. filled  with 
water.  They  are  situated  higher  up  than  the  gold  mines  along  the 
eastern  sides  of  the  Andes.  This  side  of  the  Madeira  Plata  is  made  of 
silver,  washed  with  gold,  filled  with  oranges,  pine  apples,  granadillos, 
bananas,  beautiful  flowers,  and  rich  green  leaves,  refreshed  and  kept  in 
perfection  by  the  sheets  of  ice  and  clusters  of  white  snow  resting  on  its 
edge.  Streams  of  clear  water,  habited  by  fish,  flow  through  the  lofty 
forest  trees,  turning  and  winding  among  the  hills,  while  the  fish-hawk 
perches  himself  on  the  overhanging  branch  to  watch  them.  The  parrot, 
with  his  green  leaf-like  plumage,  winks  an  eye  as  he  digs  his  curved 
beak  into  the  banana.  The  monkey  helps  himself  to  oranges;  the  hum- 
ming bird  feeds  upon  the  product  of  the  flowers.  All  are  employed, 
joyful,  and  happy.  Their  songs  echo  through  the  hills,  and  die  away 
among  the  dashing  streams ; but  the  ferocious  tiger  shows  his  teeth  as 
he  turns  aside,  snarling  at  the  sight  of  the  forked  tongue  of  a dangerous 
serpent. 

At  the  rising  of  the  moon,  swarms  of  bats  fill  the  air,  and  insects  float 


TRADE  OF  LA  PAZ. 


113 


about  in  the  heavy  atmosphere,  seek  their  rest  and  all  is  still.  The 
white  wild  goose  sits  by  the  side  of  the  snow-water  pool  on  the  top  of 
the  Andes,  and  the  dove  sleeps  on  the  puna  by  the  side  01  the  cactus 
thorn. 

The  most  inveterate  chewers  among  the  Indians  say,  that  the  coca 
raised  on  the  tributaries  of  Madre-de-Dios  is  superior  to  that  produced 
in  Yungas,  on  the  waters  of  the  Beni — the  Yungas  plant  being  at  a 
greater  elevation  above  the  sea.  In  Peru,  the  planter  goes  well  down 
into  the  flat  lands,  where  the  coca  plant  seems  to  flourish  better  than 
on  the  side  of  the  Andes,  in  the  ravipes.  Yet,  seven  thousand  baskets 
of  Yungas  coca  have  been  sold  to  Peru  in  one  year;  the  usual  price  is 
five  dollars  the  basket.  Fruits,  coffee,  chocolate,  tobacco,  cigars,  and 
about  five  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  gold  and  silver,  are  also  exported 
to  Peru ; in  exchange  for  which  the  department  of  La  Paz  imports 
from  Peru  rum,  wine,  sugar,  sweetmeats,  peppers  of  different  kinds, 
meats,  potatoes,  and  cheese. 

The  value  of  the  imports  of  foreign  manufactures  into  this  department, 
in  silks,  coarse  cotton  and  woollen  cloths,  calicoes  and  fine  cotton  goods, 
iron,  earthen,  and  glass-ware,  amounts  to  about  five  hundred  thousand 
dollars.  The  value  of  the  Cinchona  bark  and  copper  exported  is  three 
hundred  thousand  dollars,  with  two  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  gold 
and  silver.  The  difference  is  exported  to  keep  up  the  balance  of  trade, 
which  makes  the  foreign  trade  of  this  department  worth  about  one 
million  per  annum,  exclusive  of  the  internal  traffic  with  Peru. 

The  city  of  La  Paz  is  the  largest  in  Bolivia,  and  has  the  most  trade, 
owing  to  its  position  between  the  provinces  of  Yungas  and  Arica.  But 
the  foreign  manufactures  imported  by  this  country,  do  not  all  pass 
through  La  Paz.  The  roads  from  Arica  and  Cobija  lead  direct  to  the 
southern  department,  and  the  trains  of  mules  and  jackasses  cross  float- 
ing totora  bridges  on  the  Desaguedero,  such  as  we  saw  the  llamas  pass 
near  the  Lake  of  Titicaca.  The  distance  from  La  Paz  to  Cobija  is  two 
hundred  and  thirty-two  leagues. 

In  the  first  part  of  December,  when  the  flowers  begin  to  bloom  in  the 
ravine,  it  is  the  custom  of  the  inhabitants  of  La  Paz  to  repair  to  the 
alameda  before  breakfast.  Some  go  on  foot,  dressed  in  silks  and  satins, 
broad  cloth  and  white  kid  gloves.  The  ladies  without  bonnets,  their 
hair  parted  in  the  South  American  style,  appear  to  much  more  advan- 
tage than  those  in  French  fashions.  The  gentlemen  are  also  more 
natural  in  their  vacuna-made  hats  than  fit  those  of  Paris.  Indian  ser- 
vants walk  behind  the  family  with  rugs,  which  are  spread  for  the  ladies 
to  sit  upon.  Gentlemen  make  a grand  show  with  spirited  horses,  but 


114 


AYMARA  STONE-WORK. 


are  completely  outdone  by  ladies  in  tlie  management  of  their  animals, 
and  in  graceful  riding.  Some  of  the  countrywomen  ride  on  men’s 
saddles. 

The  girls  ride  off  at  full  speed  through  the  alameda,  like  a frigate’s 
complement  of  midshipmen  on  a day’s  leave  of  absence.  More  of  the 
men’s  stockings  are  exposed  to  view  than  those  of  the  ladies. 

The  men  of  Bolivia  are  better  developed  and  more  spirited  than  they 
are  found  near  the  equator.  Their  horses  are  generally  small ; some  of 
them  are  full  of  life  and  spirit,  and  prance  about  more  like  little  goats 
than  a well-trained  blooded  animal. 

Milk  is  drank  at  the  end  of  the  exercise,  and  the  meeting  of  the 
families  is  very  agreeable.  The  degree  of  politeness  and  pleasantness  of 
manner  is  remarkable,  while  the  milk  of  cow  kindness  is  passed  around 
in  large  glasses.  The  fresh  complexioned  Spanish  beauty  rides  up,  tosses 
off  a bumper,  calls  to  her  indolent  escort  in  her  sweet  language,  and  off 
she  goes  again,  followed  by  the  eye  of  a fat  John  Bull,  luxuriating  over 
his  glass,  with  a broad  brimmed  hat  on  one  side  of  his  head,  and  a 
walking  stick  under  his  arm. 

The  foreigners  of  La  Paz  purchase  the  dried  mutton  of  Peru,  and 
supply  the  Indians,  who  work  near  the  town  of  Corocoro,  where  copper 
is  found  in  great  quantities  in  its  native  state,  and  is  worked  with  great 
difficulty  for  want  of  proper  tools.  The  export  duty,  paid  by  the  mer- 
chants to  the  government,  is  six  cents  per  quintal  on  ground  ore,  and 
twelve  cents  on  bars  of  pure  copper. 

The  Indian  men  are  not  muscularly  strong,  though  they  accomplish 
a gread  deal  in  their  own  way  of  working.  They  are  slow'  and  sure 
men,  when  well  treated.  The  stone-work  of  the  fountain  in  the  plaza, 
carved  by  the  Aymara  Indians,  compares  well  with  the  best  we  have 
met.  It  is  admired  by  the  Italians,  Germans,  French,  and  English  resi- 
dents of  the  city,  and  however  much  we  respect  the  Quichua  tribe,  we 
must  give  the  Aymaras  the  preference  in  this  mechanical  art.  They 
are  more  musical,  and  seem  to  possess  a more  independent  character 
than  the  Quichuas ; yet  they  cannot  compare  with  the  North  American 
negro  slaves  in  health,  strength,  happiness,  comforts  of  life,  or  liberty. 
African  slavery  existed  in  Bolivia  before  the  meeting  of  the  National 
Convention  in  September,  1851,  when  the  fifth  Bolivian  constitution 
was  sanctioned  ; the  first  article  of  which  declared  that  “All  men  are 
born  free  in  Bolivia.”  “ All  men  receive  their  liberty  upon  placing  their 
feet  upon  her  soil ; slavery  doS  not  and  cannot  exist  in  it.” 

In  this  convention,  a member  of  intelligence  and  experience — a man 
as  popular  as  any,  and  respected  by  most  of  his  countrymen ; well  ac- 


FREEDOM  IN  BOLIVIA. 


115 


quainted  with  the  history  of  Bolivia,  and  who  had  been  a public  man 
from  her  birth  as  a nation — offered  an  amendment  to  that  constitution, 
proposing  to  establish  religious  liberty  in  Bolivia.  The  whole  conven- 
tion at  once  opposed  him,  as  did  the  two  little  public  journals  in  La  Paz; 
and  when  the  bishops,  priests,  and  church  of  Bolivia  came  out  against 
him,  it  became  a question,  whether  a patriotic,  aged,  and  tried  senator 
was  a freeman ! 

The  fifth  article  of  that  constitution  declared,  “ The  Apostolic  Roman 
Catholic  religion  was  that  of  Bolivia.  The  law  protects  and  guaranties 
the  exclusive  worship  of  it,  and  prohibits  the  exercise  of  whatever  other,” 
recognising  notwithstanding  the  principle,  that  “ there  is  no  human 
power  over  the  conscience.” 

With  political  affairs  the  Indian  has  little  or  nothing  to  do.  When 
the  creoles  side  off’  on  the  level  plains  of  Bolivia  and  fight  the  battles  of 
their  country,  the  Indians  seat  themselves  on  the  brows  of  the  hills 
around,  and  quietly  witness  changes  or  continuance  of  administration. 
They  seem  to  be  the  philosophers  of  the  country,  and  to  take  the  world 
very  easy.  After  the  struggle  is  over,  they  come  down  and  pursue  their 
daily  occupations  under  the  new  constitution,  laws,  and  powers  that  be. 

The  beautiful  house  in  which  we  are  was,  on  one  occasion,  turned 
into  a barracks  for  the  soldiers  of  the  victorious  party,  and  the  ladies 
driven  out,  because  they  agreed  in  their  political  opinions  with  their 
father  and  brothers.  The  officer’s  were  thought  kind  because  they  had 
the  most  expensive  furniture  put  into  their  own  rooms,  that  it  might 
not  be  entirely  ruined  before  the  family  had  been  sufficiently  punished. 

At  the  dinner  table  a young  family  of  fourteen  are  seated,  full  of  life 
and  gayety.  Our  place  was  next  the  lady  of  the  house,  who  presided. 
She  whs  Very  intelligent,  and  had  greater  advantages  of  education  than 
most  of  her  countrywomen.  She  seemed  particularly  fond  of  the  United 
States — asking  many  questions — expressing  her  admiration  of  the  peo- 
ple, but  disapproving  of  some  of  their  actions.  She  thought  the  country 
too  warlike;  and  although  we  had  conceived  our  answers  satisfied  her, 
with  regard  to  Texas  and  California — of  which  she  had  very  incorrect 
ideas — she  asked  me  to  explain  to  her  the  meaning  of  all  the  articles 
she  saw  published  in  the  newspapers  of  La  Paz,  upon  the  subject  of 
Cuba.  Turning  suddenly,  she  looked  up  and  said  : “ What  are  you 
doing  here,  Senor  Gibbon  ; do  you  want  Bolivia,  also  2”  After  setting 
forth  the  advantages  of  trade  through  the  rivers  of  Bolivia,  and  the 
difficulties  the  people  of  her  country  now  labored  under  to  avail  them- 
selves of  foreign  commerce,  she  approved  of  the  enterprise,  and  expressed 


116 


MARKETS  OF  LA  PAZ. 


herself  friendly  to  it ; but  concluded  by  saying — “ I believe  the  North 
Americans  will  some  day  govern  the  whole  of  South  America!” 

Our  conversation  was  disturbed  by  the  entrance  of  an  Indian  servant 
girl,  with  her  mistress’s  youngest  child,  which  was  seated  between  us. 
The  Indians  teach  the  children  their  own  language.  The  habit  of  using 
the  most  easily  pronounced  words  in  Aymara  and  Spanish  had  produced 
a very  curious  mixture.  The  Aymara  for  baby  is  “ wawa.”  A gentle- 
man seated  opposite  inquired  if  I was  fond  of  them.  Never  having 
heard  the  word  “wrawa”  before,  and  believing  he  said  “guavas” — a 
fruit  upon  the  table — he  was  answered  in  the  affirmative,  with  the  ad- 
dition that  they  “ were  much  better  when  preserved  than  when  eaten 
raw.”  This  brought  forth  a shout  of  laughter. 

The  daughter  of  the  lady,  with  tears  in  her  eyes  from  merriment, 
inquired  whether-  I had  ever  eaten  one  ? Being  told  that  I had  de- 
voured hundreds,  and  would  take  one  now  if  she  would  be  so  kind  as 
to  give  it  to  me,  the  Indian  girl  seized  the  wawa,  amidst  continued  roars 
of  laughter,  when  Havana  cigars  and  Yungas  coffee  were  introduced. 

The  markets  of  La  Paz  are  well  supplied  with  fruits  and  vegetables 
from  Yungas.  Near  five  hundred  thousand  baskets  of  coca  are  pro- 
duced there  annually — a basket  contains  twenty  pounds.  Some  twelve 
hundred  baskets  are  exported  to  the  Argentine  republic  ; the  remainder, 
after  the  sale  to  Peru,  being  consumed  at  home.  The  organized  na- 
tional guard,  or  militia  of  this  department,  amounts  to  about  fifteen 
hundred  creoles,  regulated  by  special  laws,  independent  of  the  standing 
army  of  the  country. 

The  prefect  of  La  Taz  was  friendly  to  the  expedition,  and  assured  us 
his  government  would  be  so.  His  duties  correspond  with  those  of  the 
prefects  in  Peru.  His  department  is  divided  into  provinces,  which  are 
ruled  by  governors ; there  are  no  sub-prefects  in  Bolivia.  The  most 
intelligent  men  in  the  country  are  found  among  the  prefects.  The  im- 
pression is,  that  preference  is  given  to  this  office  over  that  of  a minister- 
ship  in  the  supreme  government. 

With  a fresh  supply  of  passports  and  letters,  we  mounted  our  fattened 
mules,  and  bidding  farewell  to  our  kind  friends,  we  ascended  the  steep 
side  of  the  Quebada  to  the  table  lands,  which  slope  down  from  the  Illi- 
mani to  the  westward,  towards  a low  range  of  mountains.  The  wind 
was  fresh  from  the  southeast ; thunder  in  the  north,  and  a cold  drizzling 
rain  falling.  The  plain  is  covered  with  round  stones,  such  as  are  found 
on  the  shores  or  in  the  beds  of  rivers. 

December  2,  1851. — At  4 p.  m.,  we  halted  at  Ventilla  post-house. 
Thermometer,  52°  ; wet  bulb,  42°.  The  fat  postwoman  was  picking 


t 


HUMAN)  SNOW  PEAK,  V\G  UNAS  P A S T U R l N G W I T H 


INDIAN  PROCESSION. 


117 


seeds  from  a bag  of  raw  cotton.  She  gave  us  a specimen,  but  said  she 
did  not  know  whence  it  came.  From  her  external  appearance,  we 
judged  she  had  not  travelled  much  about  the  country. 

The  house  stands  on  a barren  plain ; not  a living  thing  to  be  seen 
growing,  except  a short  tuft  of  grass  here  and  there.  The  post-dogs 
are  miserably  poor.  The  baggage-mules  look  as  if  they  ate  round 
stones  and  drank  bad  water.  As  the  dogs  and  children  came  to  us  for 
supper,  we  are  at  a loss  to  know  how  it  is  the  old  woman  keeps  so  enor- 
mously fat.  Possibly  upon  happiness,  for  she  seems  perfectly  contented. 

It  has  been  a matter  of  surprise  how  the  globe  is  so  well  balanced, 
while  the  greatest  proportion  of  land  appears  on  the  north  side  of  the 
equator.  After  a view  of  the  lofty  mountains,  corpulent  bishops,  and 
portly  postwomen,  it  seems  more  comprehensible. 

We  are  now  travelling  on  the  edge  of  the  Titicaca  basin.  The  water 
on  the  west  side  of  us  flows  into  the  Desaguedero  river,  and  that  on  the 
east  side  into  the  Beni.  The  rich  copper  district  lies  to  the  west  of  us, 
near  the  Desaguedero.  There  is  snow  on  the  mountains  in  all  directions, 
the  Illimani  appealing  high  up  in  the  east.  Three1  vicunas  were  pas- 
turing with  some  sheep  near  our  path.  At  the  small  town  of  Calamarca, 
at  4 p.  m.,  thermometer,  48°  ; wet  bulb,  40°.  A rain-storm  from  south- 
east, accompanied  with  thunder  and  lightning,  hauled  round  by  south 
to  the  west,  when  the  small  drops  of  rain  became  frozen,  and  fell  in 
hailstones,  the  size  of  very  small  peas ; after  which  the  whole  country 
in  sight  was  covered  with  snow. 

The  scene  is  a cold  and  dreary  one,  made  more  so  by  the  strange 
noise  of  wind  instruments  and  drums  in  the  plaza,  as  the  Indians  march 
through  the  church  after  the  storm,  dancing  with  war-clubs  at  the 
doors,  while  a cracked  bell  chimes  a deafening  summons  to  pravers. 
The  wind  instruments  are  made  of  a succession  of  reeds  of  different 
sizes  and  lengths,  upon  which  they  blow  a noise,  little  resembling  music 
to  our  ear,  keeping  time  with  the  drummers,  the  slow-motioned  dancers 
respecting  them  both.  The  Indians  are  dressed  in  large  feathered  hats, 
white  cotton  shirts,  short  trousers,  decorated  about  the  knees  with  red, 
blue,  and  white  ribbons,  while  or^p  in  deep  black  w’alks  before  the  pro- 
cession in  the  character  of  drummajor.  Except  a priest,  not  a creole 
face  was  to  be  seen. 

In  the  morning  the  procession  marched  into  the  patio  of  the  post-house. 
After  they  had  played  and  danced  some  time,  the  Indian  women  came 
out,  and  being  joined  by  the  postillions,  formed  a ring  inside  the  musi- 
cians, and  the  dance  was  continued*  We  seated  ourselves,  with  our  tin 
pots  of  tea,  in  the  doorway,  looking  <fn.  After  the  dance,  the  women 


118 


AYMARA  INDIANS. 


retired,  and  the  postman,  a fine-looking  old  Aymava  Indian,  hat  in  hand, 
made  a speech,  in  a grave  and  earnest  manner,  to  which  they  all  listened 
with  silent  attention.  The  sjreech  was  responded  to  by  a long  blast 
from  the  wind  instruments  and  a few  heavy  taps  on  the  drums.  Then 
the  postillions,  one  by  one,  made  short  speeches,  and  were  answered  in 
the  same  way.  The  women  again  appeared,  each  bringing  with  her  a jar 
of  chicha,  which  they  served  out  in  cups,  giving  to  each  individual  as 
much  as  he  could  drink,  which  was  no  small  quantity,  for  the  morning 
was  cold.  The  music  again  struck  up,  and  the  women  again  joined  in 
the  dance.  One  of  them  came  out  with  her  sleeping  “wawa”  slung  to 
her  back,  which  was  soon  blown  up,  and  commenced  a laughable  dis- 
cord ; but  not  a smile  could  be  discovered  in  any  of  their  faces ; neither 
did  the  woman  stop  till  the  dance  was  ended,  when  she  swung  the 
child  round  in  front  of  her,  where  it  found  cause  to  be  quiet. 

As  we  could  not  understand  the  language  or  the  meaning  of  the 
speech,  nor  the  propriety  of  chicha  being  introduced  into  the  religious 
service,  we  supposed  the  intention  was  to  serenade  the  women,  but  were 
left  in  doubt ; foi;  they  seemed  to  be  so  serious,  formal,  and  earnest  that 
it  could  scarcely  be  a frolic.  At  first  we  were  disposed  to  appropriate 
it  to  ourselves,  but  gave  in  on  the  appearance  of  the  chicha. 

These  Indians  are  very  polite  and  attentive  to  us.  We  find  no  diffi- 
culty in  getting  what  we  want,  notwithstanding  Jose  is  as  perfectly 
ignorant  of  Aymara  as  ourselves.  When  we  were  ready  to  leave,  the 
old  Indian  took  out  of  his  own  pocket,  and  laid  upon  the  palm  of  his 
hand,  the  amount  of  our  bill  for  the  night.  Being  paid,  he  nodded  his 
head,  smiled,  and  uttered  something  that  seemed  to  us  satisfactory. 

The  town  is  small  and  wretched,  both  in  its  external  and  internal 
appearance.  Not  a foot  of  the  country  in  sight  around  it  is  cultivated. 
The  principal  production  seems  to  be  chicha ; but  the  maize  it  is  made 
of  is  brought  from  the  Quebradas  to  the  eastward. 

To  the  west  of  Calamarca,  between  the  Desaguedero  river  and  the 
Cordilleras,  near  the  town  of  Benenguala,  in  former  days,  were  worked  a 
number  of  silver  mines.  Seven  hundred  mouths  are  open  and  filled  with 
water,  having  all  been  abandoned  in  the  present  day,  though  they  are 
reported  to  be  rich.  To  the  east  ^)f  Calamarca,  in  the  province  of 
Inquisivi,  five  silver  mines  are  worked,  and  one  hundred  and  sixty  stand 
idle.  Near  the  town  of  Araca  four  gold  mines  are  worked,  and  many 
more  exist. 

Crossing  a dry,  rocky  country,  we  came  to  where  the  plain  was 
covered  with  green  cedar  bushes,  about  two  feet  high ; the  dry,  dusty 
road  was  made  more  cheerful  by^cattle,  sheep,  and  llamas  crossing  our 


SOUTHEAST  WINDS. 


119 


path.  They  were  feeding  upon  the  fresher  grass  that  springs  up  under 
the  shade  of  the  cedars.  The  change  from  the  barren,  unproductive 
places  on  the  Puna  to  that  of  a vegetable  growth  is  so  sudden,  that  the 
traveller  is,  at  first  sight,  struck  with  wonder  and  surprise,  because 
evidently  no  hum^n  power  has  been  brought  to  work  here.  It  is  all  the 
result  of  original,  natural  laws. 

Man  seems  the  most  unnatural  creature  we  meet  with.  He  builds  his 
house  in  a desert,  settles  himself  in  a country  he  cannot  cultivate  ; while 
other  animals  are  seen  in  numbers  the  moment  we  come  in  sight  of 
vegetation,  nor  do  they  leave  it  for  the  barren  places  unless  forced  to  go 
by  the  more  intelligent  creature. 

The  southeast  winds  that  we  meet  here  come  across  the  South  Atlantic 
ocean ; passing  over  the  lowlands,  they  strike  against  these  mountains. 
Rising  from  the  vapors  of  the  sea,  they  are  wet ; but  after  travelling  over 
dry  lands,  their  dampness  is  distributed  on  the  soil,  and  there  springs  up 
a growth  of  forest  trees  and  wild  flowers,  which  otherwise  would  be 
burnt  down  by  the  fiery  rays  of  the  sun. 

By  the  time  the  winds  reach  these  lofty  mountains  they  are  com- 
paratively dry.  The  little  dampness  remaining  in  them,  meeting  with 
the  cold  atmosphere  of  the  mountain  peaks,  freezes  and  falls  in  the  shape 
of  snow  or  hail. 

Being  relieved  of  their  load,  they  come  down  on  the  table  lands  now, 
where  we  meet  them  after  having  performed  their  work,  as  on  the  west 
of  the  Illimani ; there  the  plain  is  barren ; not  a living  bush  is  to  be 
seen.  As  the  winds  have  no  moisture  to  give  to  the  soil,  the  soil  has 
no  vegetation  to  give  to  animal  life  ; therefore,  man  appears  to  be  strug- 
gling against  this  law,  by  living  all  his  life  to  the  west  of  the  Illimani, 
where  the  winds  are  on  a frolic,  dancing  over  the  plain,  forming  whirl- 
winds, and  shooting  up  to  return  from  whence  they  came. 

These  winds  go  back  to  the  South  Atlantic  by  an  upper  current. 
But,  to  return  to  the  cedar  bushes.  We  can  only  account  for  them  by 
supposing  an  opening  in  the  Andes  range  to  the  southeast  of  us,  through 
which  the  winds  come,  before  meeting  with  mountains  high  enough 
to  push  them  above  the  perpetual  snow  line.  We  cannot  see  far 
enough  to  tell,  but  have  to  feel  our  way.  Yesterday  we  had  the 
Illimani  to  the  east  of  us,  and  by  the  reflection  of  a barren  soil,  the  rays 
of  the  sun  scorched  the  skin  off  our  faces.  To-day,  although  the  sky 
is  equally  as  clear,  we  do  not  feel  it,  the  atmosphere  is  more  moist,  which 
protects  the  skin  from  the  influences  of  the  sun. 

But  there  stands  a more  convincing  proof  of  this  natural  law,  and  of 
our  supposition  of  an  opening  in  the  Andes  to  the  southeast  of  us.  The 


120 


COMPLEXION  OF  INDIANS. 


mountain  peaks  to  the  west  are  covered  with  snow.  The  remaining 
moisture  in  these  winds  has  not  yet  been  turned  into  hail  and  snow,  but 
is  still  doing  its  summer  work.  The  moment  it  strikes  those  mountains 
to  the  west,  however,  then  it  will  all  be  grasped  by  the  cold  hand  of 
winter.  , 

We  have  heard  the  people  of  this  country  complain  that  there  is  less 
law  in  Bolivia  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  We  doubt  if  there 
ever  was  a law  more  plainly  written  than  is  here  seen  on  the  face  of  the 
soil,  directing  attention  to  the  countries  east  of  the  snow. 

We  observe  an  alteration  in  the  color  of  the  people  on  the  Puna,  who 
differ  again  from  those  of  the  forests.  The  Indian  who  lives  on  the 
west  side  of  a snowy-peaked  mountain  is  burnt  black  ; those  among  the 
cedar  bushes,  to  the  east  of  the  snow,  are  lighter  in  complexion.  The 
women  are  better  looking.  The  sun-burnt  man  falls  in  love  as  soon  as 
he  gets  to  the  east  side  of  the  snow  peaks,  although  the  people  of  the 
forests  in  the  Madeira  Plata  are  whiter  still.  We  have  seen  no  curling 
of  hair  produced  on  the  Puna  by  the  excessive  heat  of  the  sun. 


SILVER.  MINES  OF  SIC  ASIC  A. 


121 


CHAPTER  V- 

Silver  mines  of  Sicasica — Productions  of  the  Puna  or  Table  lands — An  exile  re- 
turning home — Department  of  Oruro — Silver,  copper,  and  tin — Climate — A 
chicha  factorer — The  expedition  out  of  Titicaca  basin  and  into  Madeira  Plata — 
Department  of  Potosi — Population,  climate,  and  productions — Rio  Pilcomayo — 
Mint — Quicksilver  trade — Imperfect  mining  operations — Smuggling  of  precious 
metals — Statistics  of  silver — Trade  with  the  Argentine  Confederation — Port  of 
Cobija — Desert  of  Atacama — Eastern  side  of  the  Andes — Frosty  mountain 
tops  and  thermal  streams — A Washwoman — Cinchona  bark  ascending  to  the 
South  Pacific — Department  of  Cochabamba — Increase  of  creoles — Incas 
colony  of  Quichua  Indians — Hail  storm— Gardens — Fig  trees — City  of  Cocha- 
bamba— Hospitality  of  the  merchants — The  President  of  Bolivia  and  his  cabi- 
net— Commercial  proposition — Brazilian  minister — President  Belzu — Cavalry 
and  infantry — Armor  of  the  Bolivian  troops — Public  force — Calacala  gardens — 
Market  people — Rio  Mamor1— Legislative  power — Church  ceremony — Cli- 
mate— A bishop’s  opinion  of  the  consequences  of  steamboat  navigation — 
Cabinet  ministers — Reception  of  a farmer  by  the  President — Heavy  shock  of 
an  earthquake — Sudden  departure  of  the  Government — Clisa  Fair — Trade  to 
the  Pacifio  coast. 

After  changing  our  baggage  mules  at  the  small  Indian  town  of 
Ayoayo,  we  came  to  a winding  stream,  a tributary  of  Desaguedero,  on 
which  was  a grist-mill,  and  arrived  at  Chicta  post-house,  which  stands 
alone  like  a toy  house  in  the  middle  of  this  green-carpeted  plain.  At 
5 p.  m.,  December  4,  1851,  thermometer,  52°  ; wet  bulb,  42°.  A view 
of  sunset  over  the  snow-peaked  mountains  is  most  beautiful.  The 
post-house  is  well  kept  by  a creole  with  a wife  and  large  family  of 
children. 

Three  hundred  Indians  work  the  silver  mines  in  the  neighborhood.  In 
this  province,  Sicasica,  there  exist  three  hundred  and  twenty  abandoned 
silver  mines.  The  yield  of  the  nine  mines  at  present  worked  produces 
some  profit,  but  no  fortunes  are  made  by  those  concerned.  Antimony 
and  stonecoal  of  good  quality  have  been  discovered. 

During  the  cold  nights  here,  dew  from  the  damp  winds  freezes.  We 
observed  no  dew  to  the  west  of  the  Illimani. 

As  we  move  to  the  southeast  the  bushes  are  larger ; some  of  them 
are  three  feet  high.  A moss  grows,  besides  the  sprigs  of  grass,  on  which 
the  llamas  feed,  as  they  slowly  move  under  loads  of  grain  on  the  way 
to  the  grist-mill. 

Scarcity  of  vegetables  appears  to  produce  an  intimacy  among  animals. 


122 


PRODUCTIONS  OF  THE  PUNA. 


Here  the  sheep  graze  in  flocks,  exclusive  of  horned  cattle  or  horses,  and 
the  vicuna  keeps  aloof  from  all ; but  in  less  productive  places,  vicunas 
are  found  eating  from  the  same  scanty  table  with  the  sheep  and  llamas. 
Animals  which  inhabit  the  highest  atmospheres  are  obliged  to  come 
down  among  those  belowT  them. 

The  Puna  seems  the  natural  elevation  for  sheep ; they  thrive  best 
there.  The  llama  don’t  do  so  well.  The  place  of  the  vicuna  is  between 
these  two  mountainous  distributions  of  animal  life.  Horned  cattle  and 
horses  are  above  their  station  here,  and  thrive  badly.  The  hog  dives 
down  into  the  very  sloppy  bottom  ; his  greediness  could  not  be  satisfied 
on  the  upper  plains ; he  would  certainly  perish  for  want  of  food,  and  is 
never  found  at  such  altitudes,  unless  forced  up. 

There  is  a sparse  population  and  very  little  cultivation.  The  people 
are  supplied  with  grain  and  fruits  from  the  ravines  on  the  edge  of  the 
Madeira  Plata.  "We  changed  baggage  mules  at  the  town  of  Sicasica, 
a flourishing  place  during  the  days  of  wealthy  miners,  but  an  uninterest- 
ing and  lifeless  Indian  town  now. 

At  the  post-house  of  Oroma,  where  we  spent  the  night,  a party  of 
gentlemen  stopped  for  baggage  mules.  They  were  travelling  in  haste, 
one.  being  on  his  way  to  La  Paz  to  join  a wife  and  children  after  a 
banishment  of  eighteen  months.  His  expressed  political  opinions  hap- 
pened to  differ  from  those  who  came  into  power  by  force  of  musketry. 
His  friends  had  obtained  permission  for  his  return,  giving  security  he 
should  not  offend  in  the  same  way  again.  He  pointed  out  on  the  map 
his  wanderings  through  the  wilds  of  Eastern  Bolivia  and  the  province 
of  Matto  Grosso  in  Brazil,  and  described  his  sufferings.  He  had  not 
heard  from  his  family,  not  knowing,  until  lately,  they  were  still  alive. 
He  laughed  and  joked  about  his  troubles,  as  though  happy  at  getting 
home  again. 

A priest  of  the  party  sat  on  the  baggage  listening  to  our  conversation. 
One  inquired  if  the  President  of  the  United  States  sent  those  out  of  the 
country  who  expressed  political  opinions  in  opposition  to  his  own,  and 
really  seemed  surprised  to  learn  that  sometimes  nearly  half  the  nation 
did  not  agree  with  our  President  in  all  things,  and  were  not  interfered 
with. 

Changing  mules  at  Pandura  post-house,  we  arrived  at  Caracollo, 
in  the  department  of  Oruro,  which  contains  a population  of  8,129 
creoles  and  86,943  aborigines.  This  department  has  produced  a large 
amount  of  silver. 

The  city  of  Oruro,  the  capital  and  largest  town  in  the  department, 
has  a population  of  5,687.  One  hundred  and  twenty  years  ago,  it  con- 


DEPARTMENT  OF  ORURO. 


123 


tained  a population  of  38,000,  without  counting  Indians.  This  decrease 
is  accounted  for  by  the  state  of  the  mines. 

There  are  twelve  hundred  and  fifteen  abandoned  silver  mines  near  the 
town,  and  not  less  than  two  hundred  gold  mines,  most  of  which  contain 
water.  Eleven  silver  mines  are  still  worked. 

In  the  province  of  Poopo  fifteen  silver  mines  are  worked,  and  three  hun- 
dred and  sixteen  stand  idle ; besides  which  there  are  four  silver  mines 
worked  in  the  province  of  Carangas,  and  two  hundred  and  eighty-five 
abandoned.  On  the  discovery  of  a mine,  it  is  reported  and  registered  to 
be  taxed.  The  miners  of  silver  ores  are  required  by  law  to  sell  their  metal 
to  the  government  at  a certain  price.  As  merchants  are  willing  to  pay 
higher,  the  silver  of  Bolivia  often  passes  out  of  the  country  in  bars. 
Gold  may  be  exported  by  paying  a duty  of  three  per  cent. 

Lead,  iron,  antimony,  sulphur,  copper,  and  tin  abound  in  this  depart- 
ment ; the  tin  is  found  on  the  surface  of  the  plain. 

The  climate  of  Oruro  is  cold,  and  the  soil  very  unproductive.  Potatoes, 
quinua,  with  a little  barley,  are  raised  in  some  places.  Llamas,  alpacas, 
vicunas,  guanacos,  and  the  skins  of  the  chinchillos/  are  used  as  exchanges 
on  the  coast  of  Peru  for  rum  and  wine. 

From  shallow  lakes  salt  four  inches  thick  is  gathered,  and  exchanged 
for  grains  and  flower.  The  pasture  is  so  scarce  that  few  cattle  are 
raised.  Jackasses  being  more  economical  than  horses,  pick  up  a living 
on  the  plain  as  they  carry  salt  to  the  cattle  districts,  or  journey  over 
the  mountains  with  silver  and  gold,  a distance  of  one  hundred  and 
eighty-three  leagues,  to  the  seaport  of  Cobija,  where  they  meet  ships 
from  the  United  States  loaded  with  flour. 

Cobija  is  a free  port  of  entry,  and  merchants  send  this  distance  for 
many  articles  of  trade,  in  preference  to  paying  duty  from  Arica  through 
the  territory  of  Peru.  As  the  jackass  travels  very  slowly,  and  the 
Indian  driver  generally  accommodates  his  pace  to  the  loaded  animal’s, 
the.  cargo  from  Cobija  requires  thirty -five  days.  It  is  difficult  to  find 
men  willing  to  make  the  trip  over  that  barren  country. 

The  inhabitants  of  Corocoro  were  generally  intoxicated  on  our  arri- 
val; neither  the  postman  nor  the  governor  appeared.  Two  persons, 
incorrectly  supposing  they  were  sober,  called  for  our  passports,  saying 
the  governor  was  absent,  and  they  were  the  authorities  next  in  power. 
One  of  them  encountered  some  difficulty  in  reading  the  document. 

He  inquired  of  Jose  the  reason  it  was  not  presented  at  the  governor’s 
house?  Jose  answered,  “It  was  usual  for  the  authorities  to  call  upon 
strangers.”  The  man  became  very  angry,  and  abused  Jose.  Being- 
requested  to  read  our  papers  and  take  his  departure,  he  said  “ he  did  not 


124 


CHICHA  FACTORER. 


know  whether  we  were  English  or  French  gringos.”  We  pointed  out 
to  him  the  words  “ Los  Estados  Unidos  when  looking  up  with  sur- 
prise, he  bowed,  touched  his  hat,  and  bidding  us  good  evening,  they 
quietly  and  quickly  walked  off.  I mention  this  fact  solely  because  it 
was  the  only  case  throughout  our  route  where  a personal  difficulty  with 
the  authorities  was  encountered ; having  to  deal  with  such  a number, 
it  was  the  only  exception  to  politeness  and  accommodating  manners — 
possibly  occasioned  by  some  foreign  importation. 

The  town  is  on  the  decliue ; it  looks  so  dilapidated,  and  like  the 
dusty,  unproductive  country  round  about,  that  had  it  not  been  for  the 
church  steeples  and  the  chicha,  we  might  have  passed  without  having 
seen  it.  A cura,  travelling  with  his  servant,  left  his  intended  road  and 
joined  us  for  company.  He  had  been  on  a visit  to  La  Paz  from  Sucre, 
the  capital  of  Bolivia,  with  a remittance  from  the  church.  As  we  rode 
along  on  the  t;  ble-lands,  he  would  point  out  an  unusually  level  piece  of 
ground,  and  say,  “What  a beautiful  place  for  a battle  between  two 
armies.”  The  man  who  had  carried  the  remittance  to  La  Paz  trotted 
on  foot  after  us,  and  travelled  every  day  as  fast  and  as  far  as  the  cura 
with  his  fine  bay  mule.  We  read  each  other’s  passports. 

Stopping  on  the  plain  at  a small  hut,  the  only  habitation  in  sight, 
except  a large  stone  church,  we  inquired  for  water ; there  was  none, 
but  a fat  woman  said  she  had  chicha.  The  cura  purchased  a gallon  for 
the  same  price  other  people  usually  pay  for  a pint.  The  woman  said 
“ she  had  chewed  the  maize  for  it  herself so  we  had  the  manufac- 
turing apparatus  before  us,  established  without  wheels  or  water.  She 
kissed  the  cura’s  hand,  and  asked  for  his  blessing.  With  one  hand  on 
her  head  and  the  other  occupied  with  the  chicha  jug,  he  uttered  a short 
prayer,  tossed  off  the  beverage  and  mounted  his  mule. 

Our  course  is  now  east ; we  leave  the  table  lands  and  enter  a small 
narrow  pass  in  the  Andes.  As  the  sun  goes  down  over  the  Cordilleras, 
the  hawks  go  to  roost  among  the  rocks.  All  is  still  as  we  ride  up  to  a 
lonely  hut — the  post-house  of  Condorchinoca  ; while  the  Indian  attends 
to  our  mules,  his  wife  cooks  supper,  and  his  little  child  plays  with  the 
post  dog.  The  night  is  clear,  calm,  and  cold. 

Ascending  the  western  side  of  the  Andes  we  come  to  a spring  at  the 
temperature  of  68°  ; the  water  flows  westward.  We  are  now  about  to 
leave  the  Titicaca  basin,  which  contains  an  area  of  thirty-nine  thousand 
six  hundred  square  miles.  It  is  a curious  basin;  all  round  its  edge 
snow  is  found,  from  which  numerous  streams  of  water  flow  and  wash 
away  the  soil,  so  as  to  show  that  the  earth  is  partly  made  up  of  silver 

If,  during  the  rainy  season,  an  unusual  quantity  of  wr  er  is  poured 


TITICACA  BASIN. 


125 


into  its  southern  side,  the  large  stream  passing  to  its  bottom  flows 
northward ; but  generally  most  water  enters  on  its  northern  side,  so 
that  the  water  nearly  always  flows  south.  Its  climate  may  be  a healthy 
one,  but  not  a hospitable  one  for  man. 

In  some  parts  of  it  sheep  and  vicuna  flourish,  and  the  llama  was 
thought,  in  this  basin,  to  prove  in  better  condition  than  elsewhere.  Our 
observations  go  to  show  they  and  the  sheep  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Juaja  valley,  in  Peru,  are  superior. 

The  mineral  wealth  of  the  Titicaca  basin  is  very  great,  but  its  vege- 
table productions  too  small  for  the  support  of  its  present  population,  who 
are  employed  extracting  metals,  and  who  draw  from  the  Madeira  Plata 
many  of  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  rely  upon  foreign  countries  for  their 
manufactures. 

A clear,  deep-blue  sky  opens  the  day ; but  as  the  tropical  sun  shines 
upon  the  white  edges  of  the  basin,  he  evaporates  so  many  feet  of  the 
snow  per  annum,  that  the  clouds  formed  daily  seem  to  curtain  in  the 
inhabitants  from  the  rest  of  the  world. 

The  Aymara  language  and  people  excite  the  imagination  to  a belief 
that  their  history  is  of  an  anterior  date  to  that  of  the  Quichuas,  and  more 
interesting  to  those  who  seek,  in  the  depths  of  time  long  passed, 
for  a knowledge  of  the  origin  of  the  aboriginal  races  of  men  on  this 
part  of  the  earth. 

There  is  a peculiarity  found  in  the  Titicaca  basin  which  we  noticed, 
but  are  unable  to  solve — the  wind  blows  all  the  year  from  the  east  over 
the  lake,  while  on  the  plains  it  is  variable  and  whirling.  Water  ap- 
pears to  attract  wind,  and  to  keep  it  in  active  motion. 

Slowly  winding  our  way  up  the  Andes,  meeting  droves  of  llamas 
loaded  with  flour,  we  find  the  strata  of  rocks  pointing  to  the  east  at 
an  angle  of  45°.  Arriving  at  the  top  of  the  great  ridge,  the  strata  is 
perpendicular ; and  on  the  east  side  it  inclines  to  the  west,  also  at  an 
angle  of  45°. 

We  now  look  over  the  Madeira  Plate,  but  before  entering  it  we  turn 
to  regard,  from  these  lofty  peaks,  the  south  of  the  Titicaca  basin. 

From  the  line  of  the  twentieth  degree  of  south  latitude,  water  flowing 
north  belongs  to  Titicaca,  and  that  running  south  tends  for  the  great 
La  Plata  basin.  These  are  the  waters  of  the  river  Pilcomayo,  which 
empty  into  the  Paraguay  between  latitude  25°  and  26°  south,  after 
passing  through  more  than  six  hundred  miles  of  longitude. 

The  Pilcomayo  is  a rapid  stream,  with  falls  and  a rocky  bed,  like  the 
Beni.  It  appears  not  navigable  for  steamboats  in  the  territory  of  Bolivia. 
This  stream  takes  its  rise  in  the  department  of  Potosi,  which  lies  between 


126 


DEPARTMENT  OF  POTOSI. 


Oruro  and  the  Argentine  confederation,  and  contains  a population  of 
83,296  creoles  of  European  descent,  and  164,609  Aymara  Indians. 

The  city,  situated  at  tie  base  of  the  far-famed  Cerro  de  Potosi — the 
rich  sister  of  Cerro  de  Pasco,  in  Peru — has  a population  of  16,711. 

In  the  Cerro  de  Potosi  and  neighborhood  there  are  twenty-six  silver 
mines  worked,  and  eighteen  hundred  standing  idle.  Besides  which, 
the  government  accounts  show  us  that,  in  the  provinces  of  Porco,  Cha- 
yanta,  Chichas,  and  Lepiz,  there  exist  three  thousand  and  eighty-nine 
silver  mines  which  have  been  abandoned,  and  only  sixty-five  mines 
Avorked  now. 

In  former  days  the  department  of  Potosi  excited  the  envy  of  the 
world.  The  silver  ore  was  found  rising  from  the  top  of  the  peak  ; the 
vein  being  followed  below  the  water-line,  when  it  wras  given  up  and  a 
new  one  sought.  The  w’ork  was  carried  on  in  this  manner  until  few 
new  veins  remained.  The  people  are  now  burrowing  in  at  the  base  of 
the  peak,  striving  to  strike  the  vein  below,  where  it  was  left  in  its  rich- 
ness. This  is  an  expensive  business,  and  some  have  given  up  the  plan, 
after  an  unsuccessful  entrance  into  the  very  core  of  the  mountain,  with 
heavy  losses. 

There  is  a mint  at  Potosi,  where  the  miner  finds  a ready  market  for 
silver  and  gold.  It  received  and  coined  in  the  year  1849  one  million 
six  hundred  and  twenty-one  thousand  five  hundred  and  thirty  six  dol- 
lars in  silver,  and  eleven  thousand  nine  hundred  and  eighty-four  dollars 
in  gold. 

The  government  purchases  quicksilver  to  trade  with  the  miner.  It 
is  a singular  fact  that,  while  the  rich  quicksilver  mines  of  Huancavelica 
are  so  close  at  hand,  Bolivia  annually  imports  two  hundred  thousand 
pounds  of  this  important  fluid  mineral,  in  iron  jars,  from  England,  around 
Cape  Horn,  and  over  the  Cordilleras,  one  hundred  and  fifty-eight  leagues 
from  Cobija. 

Owing  to  the  imperfect  apparatus  used  for  separating  quicksilver 
from  the  silver  ores,  the  waste  of  the  imported  metal  is  very  great.  Five 
thousand  pounds  of  ore,  yielding  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  pure 
silver,  required  four  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  quicksilver  for  the 
amalgamation  ; of  which,  I was  told,  not  less  than  one  hundred  pounds 
were  lost.  A simple  cast-iron  silver  burner,  or  distilling  apparatus, 
would  probably  save  half  this  waste,  and  certainly  much  labor — both 
the  labor  and  mercury  being  the  most  expensive  items  in  the  miner’s 
list  of  expenditures. 

It  is  supposed  that  much  silver  is  smuggled  out  of  Bolivia  every  year. 
The  miner  hands  one  bar  to  the  mint,  while  another  he  pays  to  the 


PRODUCTION'S  OP  POTOSI. 


127 


merchant  for  clothing,  rum,  coca,  and  so  forth,  for  the  use  of  the  Indian 
laborers,  from  whom  he  reaps  a profit  in  the  retail  business. 


It  is  difficult  to  get  a near  estimate  of  the  real  annual  amount  of  sil- 
ver and  gold  taken  from  the  mines  of  this  country.  The  following  table, 
taken  from  the  government  account,  may  prove  interesting.  It  is  the 
yield  of  these  two  metals  given  every  five  years  : 


From  1800  to  1806 
1811 
1816 
1821 
1826 
1831 
1836 
1841 
1846 


$21,186,460 

16,288,500 

10,789,816 

9,749,350 

9,089,787 

9,7S4,620 

9,848,342 

9,678,420 

9,789,640 


However  much  short  of  the  annual  product,  this  table  may  show  at  a 
glance  the  decrease  under  the  present  system  of  mining. 

The  climate  of  the  city  of  Potosi  is  cold  and  unpleasant,  being  eleva- 
ted over  fourteen  thousand  feet  above  the  ocean.  The  vegetable  pro- 
ductions in  its  neighborhood  are  less  than  are  found  on  the  plains  of 
Oruro.  The  llamas,  alpacas,  vicunas,  and  guanacos,  are  large  and  valu- 
able. 

Rock  salt  is  found  among  the  mountains  in  large  veins.  Small  springs 
of  water  shoot  up  and  flow  down  the  La  Plata  basin,  uniting  iu  streams 
which  wash  away  the  earth  from  silver,  gold,  copper,  tin,  and  precious 
stones.  These  streams  run  rapidly  to  the  base  of  the  Cordilleras  ; there 
meeting  expanded  plains,  they  form  lakes,  which  are  evaporated  and 
leave  a crust  of  salt.  Numerous  streams,  passing  on  to  join  each  other, 
finally  cut  their  way  boldly  through  the  Andes,  where  they  become  large 
enough  to  accommodate  schools  of  fish.  Then  the  Indian  is  found 
planting  maize  and  potatoes ; sowing  wheat,  barley,  and  lucerne ; rais- 
ing horned-cattle,  sheep,  and  horses.  lie  buys  salt  from  the  up-coun- 
tryman, and  gives  him  salted  fish  in  payment,  or  receiving  hard  silver 
dollars  for  beef,  mutton,  and  flour. 

Near  these  tributaries  of  the  Pilcomayo,  at  its  head,  the  Indian  plants 
sugar-cane  and  coffee.  His  wooden  hut  is  shaded  by  the  trees  of  the 
valley,  and  his  doorway  decorated  with  the  chirimoya  and  granadilla 
plants. 

The  Pilcomayo  is  a muddy  stream.  It  creeps  along  at  the  base  of  a 
ridge  of  mountains,  which  stretch  towards  Brazil,  as  though  seeking  an 


128 


TRADE  OF  POTOS1 


outlet  to  the  south  before  it  trends  to  the  Paraguay,  as  the  Beni  runs 
to  the  Madeira. 

The  department  of  Potosi  imports  from  the  Argentine  Republic 
annually  about  five  thousand  mules,  eig*ht  hundred  horses,  and  five 
thousand  jackasses,  and  three  thousand  head  of  cattle.  A mule  is 
worth  twenty  dollars,  a horse  fifteen,  a donkey  six,  and  beeves  ten  dollars 
a head. 

Bridle-reins,  stirrups,  saddle-cloths,  soap,  and  tobacco,  also  enter,  for 
which  silver  is  paid  in  exchange.  • 

Chinchilla  skins  are  worth  seven  dollars  the  dozen ; hides,  two 
dollars  each ; coffee,  from  Yungas,  twenty-five  dollars  per  quintal  of 
one  hundred  pounds  ; sheep’s  wool,  twelve  dollars ; alpaca  wool,  thirty 
dollars ; tin,  twelve  dollars ; bar  or  pure  copper,  sixteen  dollars  and  fifty 
cents;  Yungas  chocolate,  twenty-five  dollars;  and  vicuna  skins,  forty- 
three  and  three-quarter  cents. 

There  are  imported  from  the  Pacific  coast  annually  six  hundred 
thousand  dollars  worth  of  silks,  woollen,  and  cotton  goods. 

The  foreign  trade  with  Potosi  is  principally  carried  on  through  the 
port  of  Cobija.  The  road  passes  through  the  great  desert  of  Atacama, 
which  is  called  “ Departmento  Litoral.” 

Among  the  lofty,  barren  Cordilleras,  the  donkey  driver  finds  it  diffi- 
cult to  climb  the  steep  roads,  or  to  descend  into  the  deep  ravines,  where 
on  small  fiats  are  found  a few  vicunas  or  chinchillas,  and  halts  to  feed 
his  tired  animals.  Some  of  these  pasture-grounds  or  “portreros” — as 
they  are  called — are  inhabited  by  Indians,  who  cultivate  the  ground, 
and  are  attentive  to  persons  with  droves  of  mules  from  Chili  on  their 
way  to  Peru. 

A few  cattle  and  sheep  are  raised,  and  the  Indians  lead  streams  of 
water  over  the  veins  of  salt,  which  help  to  refresh  and  fatten  their 
cattle. 

In  the  ravines  through  which  the  tributaries  of  the  Rio  Loa  flow 
towards  the  Pacific,  some  barley,  maize,  potatoes,  and  fruit-trees  are 
produced  by  irrigation  ; wherever  in  the  barren  countries  these  Indians 
can  get  a little  water,  they  are  enabled  to  make  a crop  of  something 
for  use. 

In  former  days,  gold  mines  were  worked  in  Atacama,  on  the  Pacific 
side  of  the  Cordilleras;  silver,  iron,  and  copper,  of  excellent  quality,  are 
found  there  also. 

The  guano  along  the  coast  was  known  and  used  for  manuring  land 
by  the  Incas  before  the  discovery  of  the  country  by  Europeans. 

Bidding  farewell  to  the  Pacific  side  of  the  Andes,  we  enter  the  small 


THERMAL  STREAMS WASHWOMAN. 


129 


village  of  Challa  for  the  night.  The  only  conspicuous  thing  in  sight 
was  a large  steeple,  with  a small  church  tacked  on  to  the  heel,  built 
of  mud  and  stone.  The  place  looks  miserable,  yet  the  Indians  appear 
cheerful,  and  of  a lighter  complexion.  Some  of  them  speak  Quichua. 
Jose  was  told  there  are  no  more  Aymara  Indians  to  the  east  of  us. 

December  9, 1851. — At  7 a.  m.,  we  found  a heavy  frost  on  the  ground. 
Thermometer,  41°;  wet  bulb,  36°.  This  observation  is  made  on  the 
very  edge  of  the  Madeira  Plata.  Water  flows  to  the  east  of  where  we 
are  standing.  ! 

The  country  round  is  thrown  up  into  confused  and  rough  shapes, 
uninhabited  by  man  or  beast.  Great  rocks  stand  clear  and  clean  of 
soil.  Not  a living  bush  or  green  leaf  to  be  seen,  nor  a bird  in  the  air. 
The  day  is  calm  and  warm. 

The  bright  sun  shines  on  the  east  side  of  the  peaks,  and  in  the  shade, 
on  the  wrest  side,  there  is  frost.  When  the  sun  passes  the  meridian,  the 
frost  disappears  until  after  night,  when  it  is  first  seen  on  the  east  side. 
While  the  sun  is  on  his  trip  to  the  south,  and  the  rains  are  falling,  the 
frost  may  be  found  deep  down  in  the  ravines  and  valleys;  the  traveller 
passes  over  it  in  the  road,  and  it  lays  all  day  long  on  the  tops  of  the 
Andes. 

Descending  a steep,  winding  road,  we  were  surprised  at  the  sudden 
appearance  of  flowers,  patches  of  grain,  Quichua  Indians,  and  the  most 
delightful  air  we  ever  breathed.  Getting  down  from  our  mules,  we 
followed  them  on  foot.  A comfortable  temperature  makes  a man  want 
to  feel  his  legs  again. 

At  midday,  the  thermometer  stood  at  66°  in  the  shade.  A small 
stream  trickling  over  rocks,  coat<  d over  with  a green  slime,  had  a tem- 
perature of  107°.  One  flowing  into  it,  at  a temperature  of  70°,  had  an 
iron-red  coating  over  the  stones.  The  mingled  waters  of  the  two  showed 
a temperature  of  104°. 

An  Indian  woman  was  washing  clothes  in  the  more  than  half  boiling 
water.  After  rubbing  them  over  a smooth  stone,  she  wrenched  the 
argentine  soap  off  in  the  cooler  stream,  and  had  hung  them  up  to  dry 
in  the  tropical  sun  on  a small  bush,  under  the  shade  of  which  she  sat 
composedly.  Her  petticoat  was  conspicuously  a new  one.  As  we  at- 
tentively observed  some  distinct  letters  upon  the  stuff,  which  were 
“ Lowell,”  she  seemed  somewhat  surprised,  and  laughed  as  though  she 
thought  us  very  inquisitive  to  be  so  closely  examining  a woman’s  cloth- 
ing. Her  earrings  were  of  gold ; a silver  cross  was  suspended  by  a 
guard  of  vicuna  wool  around  her  neck.  The  black  wooden  ring  upon 
her  finger  was  carved  from  the  hardest  and  deepest  colored  wood  that 


130 


CINCHONA  BARE. 


grows  to  the  east  of  us.  A doubled-up  piece  of  coarse  scarlet  cloth  lay- 
on  the  top  o£  her  head  to  keep  off  the  rays  of  the  sun,  being  used  at 
night  to  cover  her  shoulders,  which  are  now  bare.  She  envies  our 
straw  hats,  and  says  it  is  mean  not  to  give  her  one.  She  wears  shoes 
and  stockings  only  on  Sundays,  when  she  goes  to  church ; the  former  of 
fine  black  leather,  and  the  latter,  silk.  Her  language  is  Quichua. 
When  the  wise  Incas  mastered  the  Aymara  tribe  they  colonized  the 
country  to  the  east  of  them,  sending  the  Quichuas  through  the  Aymara 
territory  to  surround  those  who  never  would  be  taught  a strange  lan- 
guage, nor  give  up  their  own. 

While  Jose  enjoys  a short  flirtation,  we  get  out  our  map  to  find  that 
this  woman  has  been  washing  her  garments  at  the  source  of  the  river 
Mamore ; she  is  dipping  her  fingers  into  the  main  head  of  the  great 
Madeira  river. 

Descending  the  side  of  the  warm  stream,  we  met  a drove  of  sixty 
spirited  mules,  with  heavy  loads  upon  their  backs.  They  ran  up  the 
road,  fretting  and  staggering  under  the  weight ; getting  out  of  breath, 
they  make  a full  stop,  and  then  clamber  up  again. 

We  halted,  and  had  a talk  with  the  arrieros;  they  were  from  Cocha- 
bamba, bound  to  Arica,  in  Peru,  with  one  hundred  and  eighty  quintals 
of  cinchona  bark  from  the  province  of  Yuracares.  They  make  the  trip 
to  Arica  in  about  twelve  days  over  both  ranges  of  mountains. 

Calling  loudly  to  their  mules,  they  move  slowly  up  hill.  It  was  haid 
work  for  them  to  get  to  the  South  Pacific  shore  with  their  bark,  while 
the  Indian  woman’s  soapsuds  went  danciug  by  us  on  the  dashing  stream 
towards  the  North  Atlantic.  • 

On  gaining  the  base  of  the  mountains,  we  rode  into  the  pretty  town  of 
Tapacari.  The  lofty  church  steeples  were  just  visible  above  the  tops  of 
the  richly  green  willow  trees.  Peaches  .were  half  ripe  in  the  gardens, 
and  our  tired  mules  anxiously  called  out  for  food  as  a donkey  passed 
with  a load  of  green  lucerne  just  reaped  by  the  Indians  sickle.  At  3 30 
p.  m.,  thermometer,  72°;  wet  bulb,  60°;  cumulus  clouds. 

The  people  are  so  much  whiter  than  those  we  have  lately  seen,  that 
some  of  them  appear  very  little  like  Indians.  They  are  dressed  in  thin 
clothing.  The  women  wear  ruffles  about  their  necks,  and  the  lower 
parts  of  their  dresses  are  fancifully  worked  by  their  own  hands. 

This  is  the  land  for  chicha ; the  ravines  seem  to  be  flooded  with  it. 
People  are  dashing  about  on  horseback,  feasting  and  making  merry  near 
by.  The  postman,  a most  polite  and  attentive  old  fellow,  attended  to 
his  business  while  taking  his  part  in  the  frolic.  He  evidently  had  his 
share  of  chicha,  which  made  him  show  loss  of  teeth  when  he  laughed. 


HAIL  STORM. 


131 


His  wife,  one  of  those  who  help  to  keep  the  world  balanced,  cooked  us 
a very  good  dinner.  She  had  seven  pretty  daughters,  but  as  our  fresh 
mules  were  loaded  we  pushed  on. 

The  streets  of  the  town  are  very  narrow,  paved  and  clean.  Tlie 
houses  are  small,  and  well  filled  with  large  families,  who  are  so  gay  and 
look  so  happy,  that  we  leave  them  with  regret. 

The  ravine  is  narrow  ; in  the  middle  of  the  dry  bed  of  the  river  flows 
a small  stream.  Rain  falls  in  great  quantities  in  due  season,  and  the 
sides  of  the  hills  are  washed  into  deep  gullies.  The  contrast  between  the 
barren  dry  hills  and  mountains,  with  the  green,  gay  little  valley,  is  very 
great.  But  what  attracts  our  attention  are  the  crowds  of  children ; some 
are  sleeping  on  their  mother’s  backs,  others  hang  lazily  in  front ; they 
crawl  about  the  doorways,  and  I stopped  my  mule  for  a naked  little 
fellow  paddling  turtle  fashion  over  the  street. 

The  Indian  men  are  fine  looking  ; their. forms  are  straight  and  well 
developed.  The  creoles  are  more  numerous  and  frank  in  their  manners. 
The  effects  of  climate  and  provisions  upon  people  are  wonderful,  and 
quite  astonish  the  traveller. 

We  are  in  the  department  of  Cochabamba,  which  has  a population  of 
231,188  creoles,  and  43, 747  Quichua  Indians.  It  will  be  observed  that 
the  proportion  between  the  two  races,  when  compared  with  the  popula- 
te® of  the  departments  above  us  on  the  Andes  is  reversed.  The  Span- 
iards have  crossed  over  the  mountains,  east,  to  find  here  a more  agree- 
able climate  than  in  other  parts  of  Bolivia,  and  delight  in  fruits  and 
flowers. 

In  the  province  of  Arque,  a short  distance  to  the  southeast  of  us,  there 
are  three  silver  mines  worked,  and  one  hundred  abandoned,  besides 
several  which  have  been  left  at  the  base  of  these  mountains. 

After  a few  claps  of  thunder  among  the  heights  to  the  north,  heavy 
clouds  doubled  themselves  up  over  head,  and  a pelting  shower  of 
hail  stones,  the  size  of  peas,  came  down.  The  mules  ran  about  with  us 
as 'though  we  were  beating  them  over  their  heads.  The  moment  a little 
breeze  rose,  they  turned  their  tails  to  it  and  stood  with  their  noses  close 
to  the  ground.  The  rain  that  accompanied  the  hail  froze  to  our  hat- 
covers  and  India  rubber  ponchos,  while  the  hail  rattled  as  it  beat  upon 
us.  A hail  stone  which  struck  the  top  of  my  boot  left  a pain  I felt  for 
an  hour  after.  Lightning  flashed  about  in  the  very  midst  of  us,  while 
the  loud  thunder  roared  through  the  valleys  like  the  noise  from  cannon  of 
heavy  calibre.  Soon  the  sun  shone  out,  the  storm  melted  away,  and  all 
was  clear  again.  It  seemed  like  the  winding  up  of  a pleasant  winter. 

As  night  overtook  us,  our  path,  though  level,  was  difficult  to  find 


COCHABAMBA. 


] 32 

among  the  sand  and  gravel  of  the  river  bed.  Near  some  Indian  huts, 
we  hear  them  singing  and  playing  upon  a small  guitar.  We  seldom 
heard  singing  on  the  mountains.  Jose  was  ahead  with  the  baggage, 
and,  as  the  bright  moon  rose  above  the  low  hills  before  us,  we  discovered 
we  had  taken  the  wrong  road.  The  Indians  soon  put  us  right ; we 
were  nearly  fagged  out  with  the  day’s  work  descending  the  Andes,  but 
enjoyed  the  calm  summer  night.  Our  postillion’s  horn  told  us  we  had 
arrived  at  Zizque  post-house. 

At  8 a.  m.,  thermometer,  *70°;  wet  bulb,  61°.  The  difference  between 
this  temperature  and  that  of  yesterday  morning  at  7 a.  m.,  on  the  moun- 
tains, is  for  the  air  29°,  and  wet  bulb  25°.  Cool  springs  of  fresh  water 
rise  along  the  edge  of  small  green  meadows  ; fine  cattle  feed  under  the 
shade  of  large  willows  trees.  The  postman  keeps  a good  horse,  and  his 
house  is  surrounded  by  fig  trees,  loaded  with  fruit.  By  the  side  of  a 
small  stream  snipe  fly  up.  The  doves  and  pigeons  coo  among  the  trees 
and  bushes,  while  the  turkey-buzzard  soars  over  the  tops  of  the  small 
hills  about  us. 

The  road  is  narrow  but  level.  On  one  hand  we  have  the  maize  ready 
for  the  reaper  •,  while,  on  the  other,  it  is  just  peeping  out  of  the  ground; 
further  on,  in  one  field,  the  Indians  are  planting  corn,  and  others  are 
gathering  their  crop.  Barley  and  wheat  produce  large  heads  and  rich 
grains;  beans  seem  to  be  favorites.  Old  hens  run  through  the  corn- 
patches  with  their  families,  while  Spanish  cocks  square  off  before  u^n 
the  road  for  a fight. 

Under  a grove  of  fig  trees,  which  are  large,  were  seated  a party  of 
merry  Indian  girls,  sewing,  spinning,  and  drinking  chioha  with  their 
lovers. 

On  the  10th  December,  1851,  we  rode  into  the  beautiful  city  of  Co- 
chabamba, having  a population  of  30,396  people,  situated  close  to  the 
south  side  of  a range  of  mountains,  jutting  out  from  the  main  trunk  of 
the  Andes,  in  latitude  17°  S , ana  stretching  off  into  the  Madeira  Plata, 
over  two  hundred  miles  in  an  east  by  south  direction,  separating  this 
valley  from  that  of  Yungas. 

As  the  newly  appointed  prefect  was  sick  in  bed  with  fever  and  ague, 
and  his  family  not  yet  in  their  own  house,  we  were  obliged  to  seek 
quarters  in  the  post-house.  There  was  no  hotel,  and  our  letters  of  intro- 
duction were  to  the  prefect.  We  had  a horror  of  a post-house,  not 
usually  so  habitable  in  a large  city  as  it  is  on  the  road,  and  thought  we 
had  better  go  back  into  the  country  and  pitch  our  tent  under  the  fig 
trees.  But  the  postillions  and  mules  seemed  tired,  so  we  let  them  lead 
the  way  through  well  paved  streets. 

The  houses  are  neatly  painted,  and  some  of  them  three  stories  in 


COCHABAMBA. 


133 


height,  with  an  air  of  respectability  about  the  place  we  little  expected 
to  find.  The  streets  crowded  with  people  of  all  sorts  and  sizes,  and 
nearly  all  seemed  to  be  busy.  The  large  plaza  was  decorated  with  fine 
old  willow  trees. 

Gaining  the  post-house  we  found  a miserable  woman  and  child  its 
only  inmates.  Our  baggage  was  piled  up  in  one  corner  of  the  room. 
The  child  raised  a terrible  dust  in  sweeping  the  room  and  driving  out 
the  chickens,  who  laid  eggs  in  the  corners,  and  roosted  on  the  centre 
table.  Our  postillions  bade  us  farewell,  aud  our  mules  were  put  in  a yard 
close  by.  The  woman  cooked  some  chupe  of  mutton  and  potatoes.  We 
were  tired,  sunburnt,  and  not  a little  disgusted  with  our  situation. 

On  a platform,  built  of  adobe,  we  spread  our  blankets.  After  an  un- 
successful attempt  to  get  to  sleep  upon  this  bed  of  sun-dried  bricks,  I 
got  up  and  struck  a light  that  I might  see  some  rude,  uninvited  in- 
mates of  the  posta,  who  were  making  themselves  too  familiar  with  us, 
and  found  them  to  be  chicken  lice,  ticks,  bed  bugs,  and  fleas.  It  was 
difficult  to  tell  which  species  predominated.  There  was  no  rest  for  the 
weary  that  night.  Richards  rolled  and  tossed  in  his  sleep  as  though  his 
bricks  were  baking.  I generally  watch  Jose  for  information  upon  points 
which  he  has  had  some  experience  with.  Looking  out  upon  the  bright 
starlight  night,  I found  the  old  man  sleeping  soundly  in  the  stable  yard 
at  the  feet  of  the  mules.  He  had  shaken  his  cold  blankets  in  the  cold 
air  and  rolled  himself  in  them,  where  the  insects  would  not  go. 

After  a long  time  daylight  came  to  my  relief ; with  an  application  of 
cold  water  and  a change  of  clothes,  the  horrible  little  man-teazers  were 
gotten  rid  of. 

After  breakfast  I walked  through  the  city.  The  streets  are  laid  off 
at  right  angles.  On  the  south  side  of  the  main  plaza  stands  a large 
cathedra],  and  opposite  to  it  the  palace  occupies  the  whole  side  of  the 
block.  It  is  remarkable  for  its  handsome  appearance,  being  much 
superior  to  the  palace  in  Lima.  The  ladies  are  also  beautiful.  In  the 
centre  of  the  plaza  is  a fountain  fed  by  water  from  a snow  peak  on  the 
ridge  in  sight.  From  the  appearance  of  the  houses  and  stores,  there 
certainly  must  be  wealth  here  for  an  inland  town. 

Strolling  along  looking  at  the  people,  I came  to  a corner  where  there 
was  an  unusually  neat-looking  store,  and  in  the  doorway  stood  an  intel- 
ligent-looking gentleman,  who  seemed  a stranger  to  this  country.  He 
was  a German.  The  "house  belonged  to  a Frenchman,  of  whom  I had 
heard.  As  soon  as  they  found  out  I came  to  make  an  examination  of 
the  rivers,  men  were  called  to  fetch  our  baggage  and  mules,  and  we 
were  at  once  comfortably  quartered.  The  French  gentleman  had  been 


134 


PRESIDENT  OF  BOLIVIA. 


many  years  in  Bolivia,  was  married  to  a Cochabambina,  and  surrounded 
by  a beautiful  young  flock,  who  heartily  laughed  at  our  dislike  to  fleas. 

The  stream  between  the  mountains  and  the  town  is  a tributary  of  the 
Mamore.  It  flows  around  the  town,  and  after  creeping  along  the  ridge 
some  distance  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  it  passes  round  the 
mountains,  and  enters  northward  into  the  Madeira. 

The  President  of  Bolivia,  with  his  cabinet,  were  here  on  a visit,  and 
would  leave  shortly,  under  a large  escort  of  regular  troops.  As  there 
was  not  much  time  to  lose,  I immediately  employed  myself  in  the  prep- 
aration of  a commercial  proposition  to  the  government.  A Brazilian 
minister  had  concluded  a treaty  of  limits  and  navigation  between  his 
country  and  Peru.  He  was  now  awaiting  the  action  of  this  government 
in  Sucre,  the  capital,  for  the  purpose  of  securing  the  use  of  the  naviga- 
ble rivers  of  Bolivia  for  the  Brazils  alone.  I decided  to  ask  the  right 
and  privilege  to  navigate  the  rivers  flowing  through  the  territory  of 
Bolivia  by  steamboats  or  other  vessels. 

On  Sunday  morrftng,  agreeably  to  appointment,  two  influential  mer- 
chants of  the  city  accompanied  me  to  the  palace. 

The  soldiers  drilling  in  the  plaza  were  young,  spirited-looking,  well- 
disciplined  men,  though  small  in  stature.  They  were  stout  built,  and 
nearly  all  half-breeds,  except  the  officers,  who  were  white.  There  was 
but  one  negro  among  them ; he  was  the  drummajor,  and  the  largest 
man  in  the  regiment.  The  officers  lounged  about  the  doors  of  tflb 
palace  in  full  uniform,  buttoned  up  to  the  throat,  and  looked  as  uncom- 
fortable as  the  soldiers  in  their  thick  Sunday  mustering  clothes. 

Entering  a large  patio,  and  ascending  a stone  stairway,  we  came  to  a 
balcony,  where  two  officers  in  costly  uniform  rose  and  saluted.  Enter- 
ing a large  hall,  well  carpeted  and  furnished  at  one  end  with  curtains 
of  the  national  color — red,  yellow,  and  green — which  hung  over  the 
sides  of  a large  arm  chair,  in  front  of  which  was  a small  table,  a tall, 
graceful  officer  of  middle  age  rose  from  his  seat  in  full  uniform,  a velvet 
cap  embroidered  with  gold  pulled  down  over  his  eyebrows.  This  gen- 
tleman was  his  Excellency  Captain  General  Manuel  Isidoro  Belzu, 
President  of  the  republic  of  Bolivia.  After  shaking  hands  and  being 
offered  a seat  on  the  sofa,  I said  to  him : “That  the  President  of  the 
United  States,  desiring  a more  active  exchange  of  the  productions  be- 
tween the  two  Americas,  I had  the  hope  that  a more  direct  route 
between  the  United  States  and  Bolivia  might  be  found  than  by  the  way 
of  Cape  Horn.”  To  which  the  President  replied:  “He  had  heard  of 
my  arrival  in  La  Paz,  and  was  pleased  to  see  me.  My  country,”  said 
he,  “is  in  its  infancy.  I would  be  the  more  pleased  to  join  hands  with 


CAVALRY  AND  INFANTRY. 


13-5 


the  United  States,  because  we  are  all  Americans.  You  may  depend 
upon  me  for  aid  and  assistance  in  your  enterprise.”  Upon  the  entrance 
of  some  persons  in  uniform,  we  rose  to  take  our  leave.  Before  doing 
so,  however,  I was  introduced  to  the  Minister  of  War,  who  was  an  older 
looking  soldier  than  the  President  himself. 

Upon  inquiring  how  the  President  came  by  some  wounds  in  his  face, 
I was  told  that  in  September,  1850,  Belzu  was  invited  to  take  a walk 
in  the  alameda  of  Sucre.  A friend  persuaded  him  to  continue  on  out- 
side the  usual  promenade,  where  they  met  some  persons  riding  on  horse- 
back, upon  the  report  of  whose  pistols  Belzu  fell,  three  balls  having 
entered  his  head. . The  ruffians  escaped  from  the  country ; the  fiiend 
was  shot  in  the  plaza  of  the  capitol  before  Belzu  was  well  enough  to 
interfere  in  his  behalf.  The  plan  was  well  laid,  and  so  sure  were  the 
intended  murderers  that  his  days  were  ended,  they  rode  off,  leaving 
him  on  the  ground,  shouting  “viva  Ballivian,”  an  ex-president,  who  at 
that  time  was  known  to  be  lingering  along  the  boundary  line  between 
Bolivia  and  the  Argentine  republic. 

This  attempt  to  assassinate  Belzu  made  him  the  more  popular.  The 
country  is  taught  that  his  escape  was  Providential,  and  he  had  been 
spared  for  the  good  of  the  people. 

As  we  recrossed  the  plaza  one  thousand  horsemen  were  waiting  orders. 
The  horses  small,  but  spirited,  were  in  good  order.  The  men,  too,  are 
larger  and  a more  daring-looking  set  of  fellows  than  those  of  the  in- 
fantry we  saw ; each  man  wore  a small  scarlet  cloak,  and  upon  close 
examination  I found  every  one  'of  them  had  brass  armor  breast-plates ; 
such  as  we  read  were  worn  by  the  ancients. 

We  visited  the  several  ministers  of  the  government,  of  whom  there 
are  three,  according  to  the  last  constitution.  Their  families  are  with 
some  of  them,  and  government  clerks  travel  about  the  country  with  the 
President.  A part  of  the  standing  army  marches  in  advance,  and  a 
part  in  the  rear,  as  the  administration  winds  along  the  narrow  road 
through  the  Andes.  The  artillery  does  not  travel,  the  roads  being  too 
narrow  and  rough  for  the  cannon  to  pass  on'  wheels.  It  may  be  taken 
from  Oruro  to  Cuzco  through  the  Titicaca  basin,  for  there  the  country 
is  level,  and  a railroad  might  be  built  without  much  expense  for  bridges 
or  cutting  through  hills. 

The  arms  used  by  this  army  are  the  old  tower  flint  muskets,  kept  in 
bad  order.  The  cavalry  have  a short  carbine  slung  to  the  saddle,  and 
carry  a lance  kept  very  bright  and  sharp,  to  which  is  attached  a 
small  swallow-tailed  red  flag.  They  manoeuvre  by  the  sound  of  the 
bugle ; when  in  motion  the  noise  made  by  enormous  spurs  and  bridle- 


136 


POPULATION. 


bits  sounds  not  unlike  that  of  a tin  pedler’s  wagon.  The  horses  are  not 
well  gaited,  and  some  of  the  men  bad  riders ; they  all  lean  back,  as 
though  riding  down  hill  all  the  time.  There  was  not  much  discipline 
among  the  cavalry,  unless  smoking  paper  cigars  and  drinking  chicha 
are  regulations  for  cavalry  drill.  The  women  fancy  the  horsemen ; 
crowds  of  them  collect  to  look  on.  Some  of  them  bring  chicha,  and 
with  the  most  daring  manner  slip  in  between  the  horses  a jug  or  light 
for  a cigar.  The  population  of  Cochabamba  is  composed  of  about  one 
man  to  five  women,  or  more  when  the  government  comes.  There  are 
an  unusual  number  of  weddings,  for  the  beauties  of  Cochabamba  are 
thought  to  surpass  those  of  other  towns  in  the  country. 

The  public  force  of  Bolivia  is  composed  of  a standing  army,  an 
organized  national  guard,  or  militia,  and  a police.  The  standing  army 
consists  of  three  thousand  men,  with  one  officer  to  every  six  soldiers. 
Indians  are  not  enlisted,  they  being  considered  the  agriculturists  of  the 
country. 

Bolivia  has  a population  of  about  one  million  five  hundred  thousand ; 
more  than  one-half  are  Indians,  so  that'there  is  one  soldier  in  the  stand- 
ing army  for  less  than  every  two  hundred  and  fifty  creoles.  The  cost 
of  maintaining  this  army  is  not  less  than  one  million  of  dollars  per 
annum,  drawn  from  the  labor  of  the  aborigines.  This  is  a heavy  tax, 
when  we  consider  that  the  value  of  the  exports,  exclusive  of  silver  and 
gold,  are  not  over  five  hundred  thousand  dollars  a year. 

The  organized  militia,  about  twenty  thousand  strong,  are  ready  to 
defend  their  country,  and  when  called  out,  fight  bravely.  Those  who 
are  natives  of  the  Andes  have  an  advantage  over  the  soldiers  of  the 
lower  countries,  in  being  able  to  exert  themselves  in  a then  natural 
atmosphere.  When  men  who  live  in  the  lowlands  travel  to  the  height 
of  fifteen  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  they  give  out  for  want  of  breath, 
and  lay  harmless  upon  the  ground,  while  the  Bolivian  soldier  smokes 
his  paper  cigar  with  comfort,  and  laughs  at  the  imprudence  of  his 
enemy. 

We  visited  the  family  of  a countryman,  the  widow  and  two  handsome 
children  of  a gentleman  very  much  respected  by  the  people  of  this 
country.  His  son,  a fine-looking  little  fellow  of  ten  years  of  age,  had 
the  manners  of  a Spaniard,  and  spoke  his  mother’s  language ; but  the 
quick  flash  of  his  black  eye,  and  his  desire  to  join  our  expedition, 
plainly  bespoke  his  relationship  to  Uncle  Sam.  His  sister,  the  elder  of 
the  two,  promises  to  be  the  beauty  of  Cochabamba. 

At  daylight  in  the  morning  we  passed  the  river  Mamore ; it  is  called 
here  Rio  Grande.  The  Indians  waded  across  knee-deep.  The  width  of 


RIO  MAMOKE. 


137 


the  bed  of  the  river  was  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  with  bottom 
of  stones  and  gravel.  The  water  is  drawn  off  at  this  season  of  the 
year  for  irrigating  the  beautiful  gardens  of  Calacala,  opposite  the  city, 
and  close  under  the  mountains.  As  the  sun  rose  we  met  Indians  going 
to  market  with  the  vegetables  of  Calacala.  The  ride  on  horseback 
through  roads  shaded  by  willows  is  delightful  at  this  hour  of  the  morn- 
ing. My  companion’s  horses  were  the  finest  in  gait  and  action  I saw 
in  South  America.  The  Indians  were  reaping  lucerne  to  load  their 
donkeys.  The  jackasses  are  large;  attention  is  paid  to  the  breeding  of 
them  with  an  eye  to  size.  They  are  more  required  by  farmers  than  mules 
or  horses.  Oxen  are  used  for  ploughing,  and  donkeys  for  marketing. 

Flowers  are  in  full  bloom ; strawberries  are  nearly  ripe.  Christmas  is 
not  far  off ; peach,  orange,  and  fig-trees  are  loaded  with  fruit.  This  is 
the  time  of  the  morning  to  count  the  weddings,  as  the  parties  pass  us 
on  horseback. 

The  Indians  cultivate  with  a hoe  ; they  work  the  ground  very  care- 
fully and  neatly,  manuring  and  keeping  the  plants  of  the  strawberries 
clear  of  weeds.  The  patches  of  onions,  cabbages,  and  maize  are  very 
fine.  In  a peach  orchard  we  see  a grape-vine  overrunning  a tree,  and 
loaded  with  fruit.  There  was  a time  when  fifteen  thousand  bottles  of 
wine  per  annum  were  made  at  one  hacienda,  near  the  base  of  this  ridge 
to  the  southeast,  but  its  manufactory  has  been  abandoned  in  favor  of 
chicha.  , 

As  we  turn  back  we  hear  thunder  to  the  east,  and  a heavy  black  cloud 
covers  up  the  bright  morning  sun.  Before  us  in  the  road  was  a loaded 
jackass,  slowly  walking  before  an  Indian  woman  with  a heavy  weight 
on  her  back,  while  the  carried  a sucking  child  in  her  arms  ; behind  her 
a poor  old  blind  horse  bore  two  stout,  well-built,  lazy-looking  mestizos, 
with  more  Indian  than  Spanish  in  their  composition.  Their  long  legs 
hung  down  so  straight  that  they  looked  like  natural  appurtenances  of 
the  animal  they  rode.  Around  their  shoulders  they  each  had  wrapped 
a comfortable  poncho. 

After  spending  some  time  at  a hacienda  we  reached  the  river  again 
on  our  return,  and  were  surprised  to  find  the  stream  swollen  so  much 
that  the  Indians  could  not  cross  wi^k  their  loads.  Close  by  us  were  a 
number  of  creoles  on  horseback  discussing  the  chances  for  horsemen'  to 
cross.  One  man,  mounted  upon  a tall  horse,  risked  it ; entering  the 
stream,  he  waded,  turning  the  horse’s  head  diagonally  up  stream,  and 
passed  safely. 

I was  delighted  when  I saw  our  two  lazy  companions  kicking  their 
heels  into  the  sides  of  their  little  blind  pony,  and  urging  it  where  the 


138 


PRODUCTIONS  OF  COCHABAMBA. 


horse  evidently  had  sense  enough  to  know  he  should  not  venture.  How- 
ever, the  riders  had  their  way,  but  steered  down  stream  instead  of  up. 
When  they  got  into  the  deepest,  the  rushing  waters  rose  on  the  horse’s 
quarter,  and  the  animal  went  down  stern  first,  carrying  ponchos  and 
company  under.  When  their  heads  appeared  above  water,  the  shouts 
of  laughter  from  not  less  than  one  hundred  Indians,  made  the  valley 
ring.  The  men  were  so  frightened  they  clung  to  the  horse  as  soon  as 
he  could  get  up  to  breathe,  and  down  they  all  went  again.  Finally, 
they  aided  each  other,  and  so  found  their  way  back,  leaving  the  horse 
to  take  care  of  himself.  In  two  hours  the  water  ran  oft’,  and  we  crossed 
without  a ducking. 

The  valley  of  Cochabamba  supplies  many  parts  of  Bolivia  with  flour ; 
wheat,  maize,  and  barley  are  transported  to  the  miners  of  Potosi  and 
Oruro,  and  to  the  coffee  or  chocolate  planters  of  Yungas.  This  has 
been  called  the  granary  of  Bolivia ; although  it  is  at  the  base  of  the 
Andes,  yet  it  is  higher  than  the  garden  of  Yungas.  Following  the 
course  of  the  Mamore,  from  Tapacari  into  the  bottom  of  the  Madeira 
Plate,  the  descent  is  long  and  gradual. 

The  apple,  the  pear,  and  the  quince,  are  produced  in  the  valley  of 
Cochabamba ; coffee  and  chocolate  in  Yungas.  These  are  not  plants 
that  flourish  by  the  side  of  each  other.  Yungas  is  thickly  wooded. 
Here  the  hills  and  some  of  the  plains  are  too  dry  to  produce  any  vege- 
tation without  the  help  of  man. 

The  winds  seem  to  draw  up  into  the  Yungas  valley  more  than  here, 
while  the  crops  suffer  for  the  want  of  rain,  and  the  heavens  over  Cocha- 
bamba are  perfectly  clear.  We  have  seen  heavy  clouds  driven  along 
the  northern  side  of  the  range,  and  heavy  rains  pouring  down  just  on 
the  edge  of  the  ridge,  far  enough  on  the  south  side  to  flood  the  tributa- 
ries of  the  river  which  flow  past  the  city.  The  clouds  come  in  contact 
with  the  Andes’  sides,  and  seem  to  be  turned  and  twisted  up,  so  that 
sheets  of  water  fall  to  the  earth,  and  produce  a growth  of  forest  trees. 
The  winds  drive  well  up  into  Yungas,  loaded  with  moisture,  and  meet- 
ing the  great  Illimani  and  Sorata,  form  an  immense  quantity  of  snow 
and  ice. 

The  moisture  of  this  valley  is  carried  up  through  the  ravines  of  Tapa- 
cari, and  strike  the  table-lands  on  the  Andes,  where  we  met  the  cedar 
bushes. 

The  rainy  period  fluctuates  in  some  seasons  a month.  At  Cocha- 
bamba it  usually  commences  about  the  first  week  in  December,  but 
sometimes  there  are  few  showers  until  the  first  part  of  January;  yet  it 
seems,  from  our  observations,  that  the  heavy  rains  have  set  in  in  sight  of 


CAL AC ALA  GARDENS. 


139 


the  city;  while  here,  the  loth  of  December,  it  has  not  commenced  to 
rain. 

In  the  garden  of  the  minister  of  haciendas,  we  were  shown  the  moms 
multicaulis,  which  had  been  lately  imported.  In  comparison  with  those 
we  have  seen  growing  in  North  America,  they  appeared  to  be  in  a con- 
genial climate  and  soil.  The  minister  was  fond  of  gardening,  and  was 
at  work  early  in  the  morning,  giving  the  Indians  instructions  before  he 
went  to  a cabinet  meeting.  While  the  husband  travelled  about  with  the 
government,  his  wife  remained  at  home  raising  silk.  She  appeared  with 
a basket  of  cocoons.  Most  of  the  cabinet  families  were  from  Sucre. 
The  ladies  of  that  city  are  celebrated  through  the  country  for  elegant 
manners.  It  is  impossible  to  resist  the  temptation  to  notice  the  beauty 
of  the  fair  sex  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

Lemons,  limes,  and  oranges  are  raised  in  Calacala,  but  not  in  perfec- 
tion ;•  pumpkins  and  peppers  seem  to  flourish  better.  Seven  cuttings 
of  lucerne  are  made  here  in  the  year.  The  cattle  and  horses  are  kept 
in  fine  order  upon  it.  Donkeys  are  fastened  by  a fore-foot  to  a stake 
driven  in  the  ground  ; cattle  are  tied  by  the  horns  and  fed.  They  are 
seldom  turned  out  in  the  field  to  pasture.  The  Indians  plant  a row  of 
quinua  round  maize,  sweet  potatoes,  or  other  patches.  The  animals  will 
not  eat  it,  and  are  even  afraid  to  touch  it.  This  is  the  only  fence  we 
have  seen  in  the  country,  except  those  built  of  adobe,  which  are  gen- 
erally so  high  that  the  view  of  the  garden  is  entimly  obstructed  from 
the  road.  The  quinua  plant  grows  from  four  to  sixTeet  high,  and  looks 
like  a coarse  weed.  The  grain  is  small,  like  turnip  seed,  and  very  nutri- 
tious. It  is  an  important  crop  in  this  country,  particularly  on  the  table- 
lands. "When  boiled  like  rice,  and  eaten  with  milk,  it  is  very  savory. 

The  flowers  raised  in  the  gardens  are  generally  those  imported  from 
other  countries;  the  tube  rose  and  others  are  cultivated  in  perfection. 
There  are  no  pretty  flowers  indigenous  to  this  part  of  the  country, 
except  the  Indian  girls. 

The  alameda  is  frequented  in  the  evening ; there  are  plenty  of  seats, 
but  for  the  want  of  water  the  plants  and  walks  are  in  disorder.  The 
level  walk  is  about  eight  hundred  yards  long  from  a large  brick  arched 
entrance  to  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  arches  were  decorated  with 
representations  of  battles  and  great  men.  We  noticed  a white  figure 
very  much  besmeared  with  mud  thrown  at  it.  Over  the  head  of  the 
figure,  letters  carved  in  stone  expressed  the  name  of  balivian.  lie 
had  been  thus  pelted  by  the  soldiers  of  his  successor,  each  man  as  he 
passed  showing  his  love  of  country  by  flinging  a handful  of  mud  at  the 
image  of  the  late  President. 


140 


LEGISLATIVE  POWER. 


The  legislative  power  is  vested  in  a Congress  composed  of  two  houses — 
one  of  representatives ; the  other  of  senators — all  elected  by  the  people 
for  the  term  of  four  years.  There  is  one  senator  for  the  department  of 
Litoral;  three  for  each  of  the  larger  departments;  one  for  the  Beni, 
and  two  for  Tarija — twenty-two  senators  at  present.  No  man  can  be 
elected  a senator  who  has  less  than  a thousand  dollars  a year  income, 
or  who  has  suffered  imprisonment  by  law.  The  value  placed  upon  a 
representative  is  fifteen  hundred  dollars  income. 

By  the  last  constitution,  Congress  is  directed  to  meet  at  the  capital 
every  two  years,  on  the  6 th  of  August,  and  to  remain  in  session  seventy 
days. 

The  President  has  the  power  to  change  the  place  of  meeting  at  regular 
or  extra  sessions  to  any  part  of  the  country,  when  in  his  opinion  there  is 
danger  from  internal  or  external  wars. 

One  representative  is  elected  by  thirty  thousand  creoles,  and  one  for 
the  fraction  of  twenty  thousand,  counted  by  departments,  whose  gov- 
ernors or  prefects  are  appointed  by  the  President. 

A President  is  elected  for  the  term  of  five  years,  and  cannot  be  re- 
elected until  another  term  of  five  years  has  expired.  We  believe  there 
never  has  been  an  election  of  President  by  the  people.  The  last  Presi- 
dent came  into  office  by  overthrowing  the  government. 

The  power  of  the  government  of  Bolivia  rests  upon  its  armed  force. 
The  voting  population  is  thinly  scattered  over  an  extensive  country,  and 
the  army  is  large.  Intelligent  people  of  this  country  much  dislike  the 
mother  country — Spain.  They  blame  her  rulers  for  the  manner  in 
which  the  creole  portion  of  South  America  were  treated  while  she  held 
the  country.  To  keep  them  ignorant  and  get  their  silver  was  the  sole 
policy  of  that  government. 

I was  surprised  to  be  invited  to  the  house  of  a family  in  great  distress. 
The  husband  and  father  was  thought  to  be  dying.  Without  understand- 
ing why  I was  asked,  I went.  The  house  w'as  situated  on  the  comer  of 
a street  opposite  to  a church.  It  was  crowded  with  ladies  and  gentle- 
men. The  patio  was  filled  with  frame-work,  made  of  reed,  some  ten 
feet  high,  to  which  fire-works  were  fastened.  The  street  in  front  was 
crowded,  and  the  centre  of  it  carpeted  the  length  of  the  house.  The 
ladies  on  the  balconies,  as  far  as  we  could  see  along  the  street,  wrere 
dressed  in  white,  and  had  gathered  quantities  of  flowers  in  baskets. 
The  gentlemen  were  dressed  in  deep  black,  as  if  going  to  church.  We 
were  introduced  to  the  lady  of  the  house,  who  seemed  to  be  greatly 
distressed,  but  was  engaged  paying  attention  to  the  people  like  at  a ball. 
Her  daughters  were  dressed  with  flowers,  and  with  so  much  care  as  to 


CHURCH  CEREMONY CLIMATE. 


141 


lead  us  astray.  The  father  was  evidently  dying  in  the  next  room,  the 
doctors  being  said  to  have  given  him  up. 

The  sound  of  music  drew  us  all  to  the  balconies  to  see  a grand  pro- 
cession. A large  wooden  image  of  a female  was  carried  on  a platform  ; 
a company  of  regular  soldiers  followed  with  music ; then  came  priests 
and  attendants,  with  lighted  candles,  and  a long  train  of  young  padres,  all 
under  a shower  of  flowers  from  the  balcouy.  When  the  wooden  image 
appeared  opposite  the  house,  the  men  under  the  front  part  of  the  platform 
let  her  down  on  the  carpet ; the  priests  knelt  by  her  side.  The  bells  of 
the  city  churches  struck,  and  the  population  took  off  their  hats  and  knelt 
in  prayer  for  the  dying  man.  After  singing  a hymn  they  marched  away 
to  the  music.  The  carpets  were  removed  from  the  street,  and,  as  night 
came  on,  the  fire  works  commenced.  Wires  leading  from  the  sick  man’s 
bed-room  to  the  altar  of  the  church,  carried  messengers  of  fire  back- 
wards and  forwards,  while  brilliant  fire  works  attached  to  the  great 
frames  were  set  off  along  the  street.  The  noise  made  about  the  poor 
man  was  deafening.  The  crowd  of  people  returned  home,  stopping  on 
their  way  for  ice-cream  sold  in  little  shops  alongside  of  the  plaza.  In 
a few  days  after  the  doctors  reported  the  sick  man  out  of  danger.  The 
cost  of  these  proceedings  was  two  hundred  dollars. 

The  climate  of  Cochabamba  is  very  apt  to  deceive  persons  from  the 
Andes.  The  people  here  are  very  careful  about  their  dress,  and  never 
expose  themselves  by  drinking  water  or  sitting  in  a draft  of  wind  when 
heated;  severe  colds  taken  in  this  way,  with  sore  throats,  frequently 
cause  death. 

We  observe  the  same  phenomenon  as  in  the  Titicaca  basiu.  A verti- 
cal sun  shines  upon  the  valley,  and  at  mid-day  its  effects  are  very  power- 
ful ; while  all  around,  on  the  tops  of  the  highlands,  hang  curtains  of 
clouds  reaching  half  way  down  the  mountains.  The  air  underneath 
and  on  the  snow,  near  the  city,  becomes  very  cold,  and  suddenly  a puff 
of  wind  comes  down,  bringing  along  the  clouds,  and  the  population  are 
shivering.  In  an  instant  they  clap  on  their  woollen  ponchos  and  close 
their  doors. 

We  have  had  processions  through  the  streets  for  some  days.  Padres, 
with  bands  of  music  and  wooden  images,  praying  for  rain,  as  the  crops 
are  suffering  in  some  parts  of  the  valley.  Numbers  of  Indians  join  as 
they  pass  along.  The  praying  continued  till  rain  fell,  and  then  the 
Indians  believed  the  priests  had  the  power  of  persuading  the  Almighty 
to  send  them  relief. 

We  met  the  bishop  of  Cochabamba  in  society.  He  inquired  anxiously 
whether  “ the  people  of  the  United  States  wanted  to  navigate  the  rivers 


142 


PRESIDENT  AND  FARMER. 


of  Bolivia?”  He  was  told  that  “they  desired  to  trade  with  the  Bolivi- 
ans.” After  he  left,  a lady  said  he  was  opposed  to  the  opening  of  the 
navigable  streams  of  the  country  to  the  commerce  of  the  United  States, 
and  had  informed  the  people  that  it  would  be  the  cause  of  declaring 
religious  liberty. 

The  cabinet  ministers  returned  visits,  and  expressed  themselves  highly 
in  favor  of  the  enterprise.  The  minister  of  state  said  my  proposition 
should  be  attended  to  as  soon  as  they  arrived  at  the  capital,  and  he 
should  be  pleased  to  hear  from  me,  should  I wish  to  address  him  on  the 
subject. 

The  President  enclosed  a short  note  to  the  principal  families  in  the 
city,  saying  he  regretted  his  public  duties  kept  him  so  much  confined 
that  he  had  not  time  to  call  upon  them,  but  if  they  had  any  orders  for 
Potosi  or  Sucre,  he  would  be  happy  to  attend  to  them. 

The  government  troops  were  drawn  up  in  the  plaza  on  Sunday,  De- 
cember 21,  1851,  and  after  being  inspected,  the  cavalry  was  ordered  off 
in  advance  of  the  president,  who  has  appointed  Monday  morning  for  his 
own  departure. 

A fine-looking  man,  who  had  been  colonel  under  Balivian,  and  leftiihe 
country  when  Belzu  came  into  power,  had  recently  returned  to  Cocha- 
bamba. As  he  took  no  particular  or  active  part  in  politics,  and  was 
successfully  farming  in  the  valley,  his  friends  persuaded  him  to  go  and 
pay  his  respects  to  the  President  before  he  left.  So  he  walked  iu  with 
some  other  persons.  As  he  dined  with  us  after  his  visit,  we  offer  the 
account  he  gave  of*  it  to  a number  of  gentlemen,  with  the  spirit  and 
merriment  of  a good  actor  on  the  stage.  “ I have  come,  sir,”  said  the 
colonel,  bowing,  “to  pay  my  respects  to  the  President  of  Bolivia.” 
Belzu  in  a rage.  “You  are  the  scoundrel  who  raised  volunteers  and 
fought  against  me!”  Colonel  bowing  again  respectfully:  “Yes, sir; 

and  in  doing  so  I did  what  every  officer  is  expected  to  do — obeyed  the 
authorities  of  my  country.”’  Belzu  in  greater  rage.  “Get  out  of  my 
sight,  sir;  if  ever  I hear  of  your  taking  part  against  me  again,  you  will 
be  shot  in  the  centre  of  the  plaza.”  The  Bolivians  all  laughed,  and 
like  himself  seemed  to  think  it  a very  amusing  visit.  I noticed  closely 
the  effect  produced  upon  the  faces  of  the  party  as  they  listened ; not 
one  of  them  looked  grave.  They  seemed  to  listen  as  though  they  expected 
some  joke  of  the  sort,  or  with  admiration  of  a noble  looking  fellow  for 
daring  to  speak  out  so  freely  of  what  had  taken  place.  He  left  us 
after  dinner,  and  in  the  evening  we  saw  him  standing  in  the  plaza  telling 
a number  of  his  friends  the  same  story.  Many  leading  men  who 
belonged  to  the  Balivian  party  kept  very  close  while  the  President 
remained  here.  The  election  of  president  is  a fighting  affair  usually. 


EARTHQUAKE. 


143 


At  fifteen  minutes  past  twelve,  at  midnight,  we  had  one  heavy  shock 
of  an  earthquake.  I heard  the  door  shake  and  my  bed  move  as  though 
some  person  had  taken  hold  of  one  of  the  posts  and  given  it  a violent 
jerk.  The  people  in  the  next  room  hurried  out,  and  the  whole  popula- 
tion was  up  in  a moment.  The  scraping  of  matches  and  grasping  of 
candles  was  terrible.  The  dogs  howled  in  the  most  mournful  way  all 
over  the  city  ; horses  rushed  round  the  corral  as  though  frightened  half 
to  death.  The  atmosphere  was  filled  with  a strong  odor  of  sulphur. 
The  night  was  clear  and  starlight,  the  thermometer  standing  at  72°.  The 
population  trembled  in  silence  expecting  the  great  Andes  would  again 
shake ; but  the  night  continued  calm. 

Throughout  our  route  we  have  observed  a great  work  of  displacement 
going  on.  The  earth  seems  to  be  fashioning  itself  into  shape.  The 
mountains  are  being  carried  otf  to  the  lowlands  by  the  floods,  and  the 
dry  lands  seem  to  be  growing  at  the  expense  of  the  sea. 

In  the  morning  we  mounted  our  horses,  and  a number  of  persons 
prepared  to  accompany  the  President  entered  the  street.  We  were 
told  he  had  long  since  gone  with  the  whole  army  at  4 o’clock. 

Many  of  the  Indian  girls  and  boys  have  followed  the  army.  Fami- 
lies find  great  difficulty  in  keeping  servants  from  going  off.  It  is 
amusing  to  see  troops  of  women  following  after  the  cavalry,  sometimes 
three  on  one  horse,  or  two  on  a donkey,  with  kitchen  utensils  and  bed- 
room furniture,  serving  in  the  place  of  riding  gear,  but  without  any  idea 
that  they  are  going  to  the  frozen  peaks  of  Potosi. 

There  are  a few  foreigners  in  Cochabamba — English,  French,  German, 
and  Scotch ; some  of  them  engaged  iu  mining.  All  expect  to  make 
fortunes  very  soon  ; but  say  they  have  been  thirty  and  forty  years  in  the 
country,  and  are  poorer  now  than  when  they  came.  A hard-working, 
cheerful,  honest  Scotchman,  who  had  been  a number  of  years  in  a 
woollen  factory  in  New  York,  told  me  the  most  unfortunate  thing  he 
ever  did  was  to  leave  the  United  States. 

The  wages  paid  the  Indians  for  mining  silver  varies  according  to  the 
value  and  hardness  of  the  veins — from  twelve  to  sixty  dollars  the  yard. 
The  mines  containing  water  are  cleared  by  the  means  of  llama  skin 
buckets,  passed  from  hand  to  hand.  This  required  a number  of  Indians, 
working  day  and  night.  If  a man  could  not  make  his  fortune  with  a 
corn-shelling  machine  in  this  country,  he  would  very  much  astonish  the 
natives  by  the  use  of  such  a convenient  implement. 

The  merchants  of  Cochabamba  send  off  every  week  a supply  of  goods 
to  the  valley  of  Clisa,  a short  distance  to  the  southeast  of  this  city. 
The  Indians  from  the  surrounding  country  come  in  on  Sunday  to  buy 


144 


CLIZA  FAIR TRADE. 


at  wliat  is  called  the  weekly  fair.  Six  hundred  dollars  worth  of  chicha 
have  been  sold  in  a day  at  these  fairs.  A foreigner  once  had  this  liquor 
prepared  by  pounding  the  corn  between  stones,  and  offered  it  to  some 
of  the  country  ladies  to  drink.  An  old  chicha  toper,  after  tasting  it, 
said,  “for  her  part,  she  much  preferred  chicha  made  of  chewed  corn, 
which  gave  it  a different  flavor  from  that  made  by  the  stones,  and 
she  was  fond  of  good  chicha.” 

The  merchants  make  their  remittances  to  the  sea-coast  by  putting 
twenty-two  hundred  dollars  in  silver  in  bags  well  covered  with  leather, 
forty-four  hundred  dollars  being  a mule  load.  The  arriero  signs  the 
bill  of  lading  and  arms  himself  for  the  robbers.  Sixteen  dollars  per  mule 
load  is  paid  for  delivering  it  at  Tacna,  in  Peru,  near  Arica.  The  trip 
is  made  in  fourteen  days.  It  is  strange  that  these  trains  are  seldom 
robbed  among  the  uninhabited  regions  of  the  Andes  and  Cordilleras, 
where  the  arriero  sleeps  upon  the  mountain-top  or  in  the  deep  gorge 
by  himself. 

The  trip  from  Cochabamba  to  Cobija  is  made  in  forty  days.  The 
distance  is  two  hundred  and  nineteen  leagues. 

Since  1830,  the  government  have  thought  it  policy  to  debase  their 
coins  about  twenty-six  per  cent,  worse  than  ordinary  dollar  standard  ; 
sometimes  they  have  exceeded  this  standard.  Their  doubloons  of  1827 
to  1830  contain  eight  hundred  and  seventy  parts  of  fine  gold  in  one  thou- 
sand. The  dollars  and  portions  from  1827  to  1840  are  from  six  hun- 
dred and  seventy  to  nine  hundred  and  three  fine  in  the  one  thousand, 
showing  very  great  irregularities. 

The  consumption  of  their  cotton  cloths  and  silks  increases  as  we  move 
east,  and  where  the  climate  is  warmer.  The  Indian  girls  are  seam- 
stresses here,  and  are  very  handy  workers  with  the  needle.  Wine,  rum, 
and  'dried  fish  are  imported  from  Peru,  for  which  wheat,  maize,  and 
soap  are  given  in  exchange,  making  up  the  balance  of  trade  with  Peru 
in  silver. 

The  inland  situation  of  these  people  places  them  so  far  from  the 
markets  of  other  countries,  that  they  are  obliged  to  supply  their  own 
wants  very  much,  and  we  find  various  descriptions  of  industry.  Weavers 
produce  beautiful  cotton  and  woollen  cloths ; hatters  form  hats  of  the 
vicuna  wool  equal  to  well-taught  workmen.  We  found  them  much 
more  comfortable  than  our  otvn.  The  women  cut  out  and  make  dresses, 
and  tailors  abound.  Blacksmiths  are  in  greater  numbers,  and  carpen- 
ters’ shops,  a rare  establishment  on  the  mountains,  indicate  our  close 
proximity  to  the  forests.  Cabinet-makers  supply  the  city  with  much 
furniture,  although  the  deficiency  is  still  apparent.  We  have  seen  a train 
of  jackasses  entering  the  city  loaded  with  cane-bottomed  chairs  mauu- 


MECHANICS  OP  COCHABAMBA.  14-5 

• 

factured  in  the  United  States,  and  another  train  loaded  with  iron  bed- 
steads from  France,  while  the  shops  are  well  supplied  with  ornamental 
woods.  The  difficulty  in  producing  is  from  a want  of  a proper  teaching 
of  the  trades.  A boy  handles  a North  American  chisel  very  awkwardly, 
while  the  head  of  the  shop  stands  in  the  doorway  smoking  a paper 
cigar,  with  a broadcloth  coat  on  his  back,  and  a poncho  over  that. 

While  the  President  was  in  Cochabamba,  a young  man  was  presented 
to  him,  who  it  was  said  “invented”  a piano.  lie  was  highly  praised, 
and  his  piano  valued  as  a home  production.  The  tin  men  are  good 
workers  after  their  own  fashion,  but  they  seem  indisposed  to  be  employed 
out  of  their  usual  routine.  We  wanted  a funnel,  one  inch  perpendicular 
at  the  mouth,  for  the  purpose  of  catching  rain,  and  measuring  the  quan- 
tity of  water  during  the  rainy  season.  The  most  experienced  tinner  in 
town  looked  at  the  drawing  and  measurements,  but  handing  it  back,  said, 
“ I never  work  my  tin  up  in  that  shape  though  he  willingly  made  us 
a common  funnel ; there  appeared  no  disposition  to  be  uncivil  or  dis- 
obliging, but  a very  strong  indisposition  to  exert  the  brain.  We  see 
few  men  saving  their  hands’  labor  by  practising  head-work. 

The  tin  is  found  in  the  Titicaca  basin,  carried  over  the  Cordilleras, 
and  shipped  around  Cape  Horn  to  the  United  States;  manufactured, 
then  re-shipped,  and  after  doubling  Cape  Horn  a second  time,  returns 
by  the  mouth  of  the  mine,  crosses  the  Andes,  and  is  sold  here  to  make 
tin  pans,  funnels,  and  coffee  pots1  for  the  original  miners. 

There  are  few  jewellers  in  the  city;  now  and  then  a travelling  Ger- 
man sets  up  shop,  and  does  a good  business  for  a while.  The  bishops 
and  priests  carry  their  timepieces,  and  visit  him  before  breakfast. 
Many  persons  having  business  w ith  the  church,  go  to  the  jewellers  to 
settle  ; then  they  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  clocks  and  watches  that 
excite  a penchant  for  antiquities. 

The  gunsmiths  are  tolerably  good.  There  are  more  old  pieces  in 
their  shops  than  new  ones.  It  is  doubtful  if  a Cochabambino  ever  “in 
vented”  a gun,  but  they  repair  stocks  and  barrels  to  satisfaction,  and 
charge  double  prices. 

Indian  women  purchase  of  the  merchants  cotton  goods,  needles,  thread, 
beads,  scissors,  brass  or  silver  thimbles,  and  small  looking  glasses,  which 
they  retail  in  the  plaza  under  the  widow  trees  and  along  the  shady  sides 
of  the  streets,  working  at  their  needles,  or  spinning  wool  and  cotton  by 
hand,  during  any  leisure ; others  sell  shoes.  The  fruit  huxters  are  in- 
variably the  fattest,  and  the  diy  goods  sellers  the  best  looking,  and 
always  dressed  surprisingly  neat.  The  girls  from  Calacala,  who  bring 
potatoes  and  quinua,  have  a more  country  air. 

10 


146 


MARKET  PLACE. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Market  place — Cinchona  bank — Funeral  ceremonies — Longevity — Kindness  of 
British  and  Brazilian  ministers— French  schoolmistresses — Ancient  habita- 
tion— Sucre,  the  capital — Departments  of  Chuquisaca  and  Tarija— River  Ber- 
mejo — Distribution  of  vegetable  life — Visit  to  Lake  Uarauara — Snow  line — 
Balls — Theatre— Department  of  Santa  Cruz — Creole  population — Daily  life— 
Province  of  Chiquitos — Indians — Labors  of  the  Jesuits — Paraguay  liver. 

On  the  regular  days  the  market  place  is  crowded  with  Indians  selling, 
while  creoles  are  the  principal  buyers.  The  market  is  conveniently 
arranged ; on  one  side  are  the  dry-goods  huxters ; on  another,  those 
with  shoes  and  beads.  Beef,  mutton,  and  pork  are  kept  by  themselves, 
while  fruits  occupy  a separate  part.  In  the  centre  a number  of  women 
cook  chupo  for  those  who  are  from  home.  In  the  street  stand  droves 
of  jackasses  patiently  waiting  with  forefeet  hobbled.  Children  sleep 
while  slung  to  their  mothers’  backs.  The  gay  laugh  of  the  Indian  girls 
often  makes  the  country  boys  sputter  their  chupe.  Small  bundles  of 
wood  and  charcoal  are  brought  from  the  further  side  of  the  ridge.  In- 
dians leave  town  with  the  setting  sun  and  return  during  the  night,  driv- 
ing donkeys  loaded  with  snow  to  be'sold  tt>  the ‘ice-cream  facturers. 
These  various  businesses  are  on  a small  scale,  but  all  contribute  their 
mite,  and  the  market  of  Cochabamba  is  well  supplied  with  everything 
the  inhabitants  need.  The  candle-makers  do  a good  business.  Oil 
costs  so  much  after  the  transit  across  the  mountains  that  it  is  seldom 
used.  We  were  present  when  a merchant  unpacked  some  boxes  of 
French  wines  and  sweet  oil.  Every  fourth  bottle  was  broken,  and  some 
bottles  empty.  This  loss  was  deducted  from  the  pay  of  the  arriero.  The 
poor  man  looked  sad  at  the  smallness  of  his  receipts  after  fourteen  days 
labor  over  the  mountains  from  the  coast.  French  articles  excite  the 
fancy  of  the  people  very  much,  .such  as  work-boxes,  cigar  cases,  fancy 
lace.  The  women  sometimes  buy,  for  the  sake  of  getting  the  pretty 
paper  boxes  the  French  put  their  goods  in.  Very  common  glassware 
sells  yell,  but  costly  articles  are  more  or  less  injured  by  the  journey,  and 
find  few  purchasers  here.  The  people  are  more  fond  of  trade  than  any 
other  employment ; they  seem  to  take  pleasure  in  buying  and  selling 
again,  and  to  possess  an  active  industry  seldom  met  with. 

The  great  business  house  in  Cochabamba  is  the  bank  for  the  deposit 
and  purchase  of  cinchona  bark,  gathered  along  the  northeast  side  of  a 


COCHASftWBA  MARKET  WOMAN 


CINCHONA  BANK. 


147 


ridge  in  the  province  of  Yuracares.  Th:s  bark  was  first  gathered  in 
quantities  in  1849,  though  known  for  many  years.  The  best  quality  is 
not  quite  equal  to  that  of  Yungas,  but  only  second  to  it.  There  are 
four  other  classes  of  inferior  bark,  for  some  of  which  the  bank  pays  fif- 
teen dollars  per  quintal.  The  best,  by  law,  is  worth  fifty-four  dollars. 
The  freight  to  Arica  is  seventeen  dollars  the  mule  load  of  three  quintals. 
Six  thousand  quintals  of  bark  have  already  been  gathered  from  Yura- 
cares. The  bank  was  established  in  the  year  1851.  Mr.  Haenke  men- 
tioned the  existence  of  cinchona  bark  on  his  visit  to  Yuracares  in  1796, 
but  it  was  never  closely  examined  until  1850,  when  it  was  found  to  be 
of  such  good  quality  that  the  people  of  Cochabamba  endeavored  to  get 
a bank  established  upon  an  improved  plan.  This  was  not  agreeable  to 
those  at  La  Paz,  and  when  the  Yuracares  bark  was  sent  to  that  bank  to 
have  its  value  determined,  it  was  pronounced  bad.  The  judges  of  Tacna, 
Lima,  and  Valparaiso  gave  a different  opinion.  A shrewd  business  man 
of  Cochabamba  requested  his  agent  in  La  Paz  to  forward  a quintal  of 
Yungas  bark  that  had  already  passed  inspection  as  good  bark  through 
their  bank.  It  was  then  made  up  in  the  Cochabamba  fashion,  and  bear- 
ing a Yuracares  mark,  was  sent  back  to  the  La  Paz  bank.  In  regular 
course  it  was  pronounced  bad.  The  case  was  then  laid  before  the  gov- 
ernment; a new  company  was  formed,  and  a bank  was  established  here, 
but  without  the  proposed  improvements. 

The  eighth  article  of  the  last  constitution  declares,  “All  men  may 
enter  the  territory  of  Bolivia,  live  in  it,  and  are  at  liberty  to  take  away 
with  them  their  property,  paying  duties  to  the  treasury,  according  to 
laws  of  police  and  the  custom-house.” 

The  forests  are  open  to  all  who  choose  to  enter  them ; the  business  is 
more  valuable  than  mining.  Med* sometimes  remain  after  the  rainy 
season  has  commenced.  We  have  dreadful  accounts  of  the  loss  of  fife 
among  the  woodsmen  this  month  (December)  by  the  sickness  brought 
on  by  exposure  to  the  climate.  Many  poor  families  are  without  hus- 
bands and  fathers.  They  have  died  in  the  woods,  while  seeking  fortunes. 

The  Indians  comparatively  pay  little  attention  to  the  business.  They 
make  use  of  cinchona,  as  well  as  of  other  barks,  but  seldom  trade  with 
it.  There  is  a bark  from  the  province  of  Matto  Grosso,  in  Brazil,  which 
the  Indians  prefer  in  cases  *of  fever  and  ague.  It  is  from  a large  tree 
with  very  small  leaves,  violet  blossoms,  and  the  bark  very  hard#  They 
boil  it  in  water  till  the  decoction  becomes  deep  red,  and  then  drink  it. 
It  is  said  by  them  to  be  a certain  cure,  although  this  bark  is  not  yet 
known  in  the  trade.  The  bank  is  obliged  to  keep  wratchraen  along  the 
roads  to  the  entrances  of  the  forests  during  the  time  the  government 


14S 


FUNERAL  CEREMONIES. 

• 

prohibits  the  gathering  of  bark,  to  see  there  is  no  smuggling.  This  plan 
is  both  difficult  and  expensive.  From  Yungas  the  woodsmen  sometimes, 
find  their  way  into  Peru  by  secret  paths  through  the  tangled  forests, 
and  exchange  bark  under  the  shade  of  trees  in  the  Amazon  basin  for 
the  gold  of  Carabaya.  It  is  astonishing  to  see  the  toil  and  labor  these 
poor  men  go  through  under  tropical  sun  and  rains  for  this  article  of 
trade;  yet  neither  they  nor  those  having  the  monopoly  appear  to  be 
accumulating  money.  The  expenses  of  labor,  the  distance  from  market, 
and  the  want  of  system  in  the  business  appear  to  be  obstructions.  The. 
law  requires  the  woodsman  to  sell  his  bark  to  the  bank ; the  company 
again  are  required  by  the  same  law  to  pay  fixed  prices  per  quintal.  The 
market  prices  in  the  northern  counties  are  so  low  that  the  bank  is  occa- 
sionally obliged  to  stop.  The  woodsmen  crowd  in  and  require  money 
for  their  bark ; the  business  becomes  choked,  and  the  people  engaged 
are  dissatisfied.  Then  the  government  is  called  upon  for  temporary 
relief  for  money  to  pay  the  woodsmen,  or  a decree  to  prohibit  the  gather- 
ing of  bark  until  the  market  prices  rise. 

While  in  Cochabamba  we  witnessed  ceremonials  for  the  funeral  of  a 
little  child.  A number  of  ladies  came  to  prepare  the  infant  for  the 
grave.  They  dressed  it  in  a white  silk  frock,  fastened  on  by  diamond 
rings,  and  trimmed  with  gold  and  silver  threads ; the  little  feet  and  head 
bare.  In  its  right  hand  was  placed  a golden  cross,  and  in  the  left  a 
small  silver  lamb.  The  coffin  was  lined  with  deep-blue  silk,  inside  of 
which  was  placed  a little  bed  ; the  whole  hung  by.  three  bands  of  blue 
and  white  ribbon.  While  the  ladies  were  engaged  upon  this  prepara- 
tion, they  laughed  and  talked  as  though  making  very  different  prepara- 
tions. The  mother  and  family  were  brought  in  to  see  the  arrangements. 
Six  little  boys,  dressed  in  blac-lc,  held  the  ribbons,  and  carried  the 
child  towards  the  church.  The  ladies,  headed  by  the  commadre  (god- 
mother) of  the  dead  infant,  followed,  and  after  them  friends  on  foot. 
The  eldest  sister  was  the  only  one  of  the  family  who  followed  to  the 
church.  As  the  boys  moved  along  through  the  streets,  Indian  women 
crowded  round  to  look  at  and  admire  the  finery.  The  boys  were  cau- 
tioned to  see  that  none  of  the  jewellery  wrere  stolen.  These  are  taken 
off  after  the  body  leaves  the  church  for  the  graveyard,  w here  the  coffin 
is  placed  on  a shelf  in  a brick  wall  above  ground.  Great  care  is  taken 
that  %e  coffin  is  not  stolen,  particularly  when  it  is  an  expensive  one. 
The  same  coffin  is  sold  several  times  for  eight  dollars.  Among  the 
mestizos  we  are  told  are  found  many  bad  people.  Twenty  priests,  with 
lighted  candles,  knelt  in  prayer  by  the  music  of  “misa  de  las  Angelas” — 
angels1  mass.  The  ladies  returned  to  the  house  of  the  mother,  and  spent  the 


LONGEVITY. 


149 


evening  sociably,  as  though  nothing  had  happened.  The  regular  custom 
of  the  country  is  to  have  music  aud  dancing  in  the  house  before  the 
corpse  is  taken  to  the  church,  and  even  to  bring  in  chicha ; but  as  the 
father  of  this  child  was  a foreigner,  no  such  practice  was  permitted. 
The  doctrine  taught  by  the  church  seems  to  be,  that  as  the  child  is  in 
Heaven,  it  is  cause  for  rejoicing  and  merry-making.  This  appears  to  be 
a bounty  for  negligence  and  inattention  to  life. 

I saw  a funeral  passing  through  the  streets  of  Cochabamba,  preceded 
by  a man  with  a five-gallon  jar  of  chicha  on  his  head.  At  the  corners 
of  the  streets,  when  those  who  carried  the  corpse  were  tired,  they  all 
drank  and  sang,  until  the  whole  party  became  intoxicated,  so  that  they 
did  not  reach  the  graveyard  at  all,  and  the  funeral  was  postponed  until 
the  next  day,  when  the  same  forms  were  practised  we  saw  the  day  before. 

This  is  the  case  only  among  the  mestizos;  the  Indians  are  more 
orderly  ; show  a more  quiet  respect,  natural,  and  proper  feeling.  They 
often  sit  silently  in  rows  by  a corpse  all  night  mourning  for  the  loss  of 
a fellow  Indian.  There  is  among  them  a deep,  heartfelt  expression,  that 
carries  with  it  outwardly  an  unmistakeable  and  truthful  inward  grief. 

The  funeral  of  a wealthy  creole  is  attended  by  gentlemen  dressed  in 
black,  invited  by  printed  cards,  who  carry  long  tallow  candles  through 
the  streets,  accompanied  by  music.  A train  of  Franciscan  friars  and 
portable  altars  put  up  at  the  corners  between  the  houses  and  some 
church.  Masses  are  said  agreeably  to  order,  and  a charge  is  made  in 
the  funeral  bills  for  chicha,  cigars,  coca,  wine,  cooking  apparatus,  with 
other  church  expenses,  amounting  to  nearly  three  hundred  dollars.  We 
witnessed  such  a bill  paid  for  a friend,  and  could  not  avoid  making  a 
comparison  between  the  articles  and  the  list  of  mess  stores  drawn  up 
by  an  old  sailor  on  the  eve  of  his  departure  for  a cruise  round  Cape 
Horn. 

Men  do  not  live  to  a very  old  age  in  Cochabamba,  eighty  years  being 
the  oldest  known  at  present.  Girls  sometimes  bear  children  at  the  age 
of  thirteen ; twelve  years  is  the  marriageable  age,  both  for  creoles  and 
Indians.  The  proportion  of  marriages  in  this  country  is  small  for  the 
amount  of  population.  I regret  to  be  obliged  to  say  the  most  moral 
portion  is  found  among  the  aboriginal  race.  The  Indian,  with  his  wife 
and  children  around  him,  cultivates  the  soil,  while  the  creoles  and  mestizos 
are  idle  and  generally  unmarried  people.  Since  the  establishment*)!  the 
government,  in  the  year  1826  to  the  year  1851,  during  twenty-five  years, 
the  population  has  increased  from  about  one  million  to  one  million  and 
a half.  Few  people  leave  the  country,  and  few  emigrate  to  it. 

In  the  streets  of  Cochabamba  there  are  many  beggars,  blind  and 


1-50 


KINDNESS  OF  FOREIGN  MINISTERS. 


crazy.  It  was  the  practice  of  one  friend  to  open  his  door  and  let  into 
the  patio  on  Saturday  about  fifty  miserable-looking  creatures — menf 
women,  and  children — not  one  of  them  Indians;  each  was  served  with 
two  loaves  of  bread  by  the  hands  of  his  little  daughters. 

Through  the  polite  interposition  of  her  Britannic  Majesty’s  minister 
in  Sucre,  the  Brazilian  envoy  kindly  sent  me  passports  to  the  authorities 
on  my  route,  and  also  wrote  to  the  governor  of  the  province  of  Matto 
Grosso  in  my  behalf. 

The  Extraordinary  Minister  Plenipotentiary  from  Brazil  had  made  a 
short  speech  to  the  President  and  his  cabinet,  at  a dinner  in  Sucre,  on 
the  navigation  of  the  Amazon  river  and  its  tributaries,  by  which  it  was 
understood  he  had  been  sent  to  desire  the  exclusive  right  to  navigate 
the  branches  of  the  Madeira  flowing  through  the  territory  of  Bolivia. 
An  enterprising  and  intelligent  gentleman,  engaged  in  the  trade  of  cin- 
chona bark  in  Cochabamba,  and  a friend  of  President  Belzu,  answered 
the  Brazilian  minister.  He  said  it  would  be  more  advantageous  to 
Bolivia  to  grant  that  privilege  to  a company  belonging  to  a nation 
who  would  introduce  the  mechanic  arts,  machinery,  and  agricultural 
implements,  into  the  lowlands  and  proper  tools  for  mining  operations. 
He  was  in  favor  of  the  navigation  being  opened  to  the  commercial 
people  of  North  America.  To  this  the  Brazilian  minister  replied,  that 
the  North  Americans  had  already  annexed  a large  territory  from 
Mexico,  and  he  considered  such  a proposition  an  invitation  for  them  to 
come  to  South  America.  As  he  had  not  been  received  in  an  official 
character  by  the  government  of  Bolivia,  he  demanded  his  passport,  and 
retired  from  the  contest. 

In  the  opinion  of  some,  it  was  thought  a wise  plan  to  induce  the 
President  of  Bolivia  to  declare  towns  on  the  branches  of  the  Madeira 
free  ports  of  entry  to  the  commerce  of  the  world.  By  others  it  was 
considered  an  impolitic  movement,  as  there  might  be  proved  a necessity 
to  land  cargoes  in  the  territory  of  Brazil  at  certain  points  of  obstruc- 
tion between  the  Atlantic  and  Bolivia,  and  no  affront  should  be  offered 
the  Brazilian  government,  with  whom  it  was  necessary  to  be  upon  good 
terms  for  the  accomplishment  of  a great  commercial  enterprise.  The 
merchants  of  Cochabamba  used  their  influence  with  the  cabinet  ministers 
to  dis^purage  any  act  which  might  stand  in  the  way  of  a right  to  pass 
down  to  the  ocean  through  the  territory  of  Brazil,  or,  in  case  of  natural 
obstructions — such  as  falls  and  rapids — to  prevent  an  amicable  arrange- 
ment for  portages  on  land  between  these  two  nations. 

The  President  has  appointed  two  French  ladies  schoolmistresses  for 
the  public  schools  supported  by  the  government  for  the  education  of 


SCHOOLS JOURNALS. 


151 


the  poor  children  in  Cochabamba.  These  ladies  come  from  the  other 
side  of  the  world  to  teach,  and  by  our  particular  request  one  of  them 
promised  to  lead  the  ideas  of  the  children  along  the  current  of  the 
small  stream  flowing  by  the  school-house  through  all  its  turnings,  until 
she  got  them  to  understand  how  easy  it  would  be  to  go  that  way  to 
the  land  of  her  forefathers. 

A large  congregation  of  the  intelligent  people  of  Cochabamba  were 
present  at  the  opening  of  this  institution.  The  prefect  of  the  depart- 
ment and  bishop  appeared  in  their  official  robes.  The  gentlemen  pre- 
sent were  of  many  colors. 

The  ladies  of  Cochabamba  very  seldom  smoke  or  use  tobacco,  except 
as  snuff,  and  then  it  seems  to  be  for  the  pleasure  of  sneezing ; a practice 
frequently  resorted  to  by  the  bishop,  who  wore  a handsome  diamond 
ring. 

The  prefect  addressed  the  audience,  and  gave  his  authority  for  open- 
ing the  institution.  One  of  the  French  ladies  rose  and  read,  in  a clear 
and  intelligible  voice,  thanks  to  the  government  for  her  appointment, 
promising  to  exert  herself  to  the  best  of  her  ability,  setting  forth  the 
wide  difference  between  the  well-educated  lady  and  the  savage  woman. 

There  are  three  schools  in  the  city  for  boys,  and  two  other  small  ones 
for  girls.  The  great  difficulty  seems  to  be  in  the  selection  of  teachers. 
While  the  government  was  here  the  boys  had  holiday,  the  troops  being 
quartered  in  the  school- houses. 

There  was  no  public  journal  published  in  Cochabamba  on  our  arrival ; 
but  a Ramage  press  was  soon  set  in  motion  upon  the  subject  of  the 
navigable  rivers  and  commerce  of  Bolivia.  A pamphlet  was  published, 
called  “ Revista”;  we  received  the  first  number,  and  found  that  the 
young  merchants  of  the  city  had  contributed  poetry. 

The  “Revista”  is  the  fourth  public  journal  in  the  country.  Besides 
two  small  papers  in  La  Paz,  there  is  one  published  in  Sucre — “ El  Eco 
de  la  Opinion,”  which  with  the  rest  are  all  careful  to  be  of  the  same 
opinion  as  the  government  upon  public  as  well  as  private  matters.  In- 
deed, we  perceive  no  freedom  of  expression,  as  we  would  consider  it  in 
the  United  States. 

The  Indians’  houses  are  small  and  generally  have  but  one  room.  In 
the  centre  is  a high  adobe  stand,  built  up  to  obstruct  a view  from  the 
street.  In  one  corner  is  an  adobe  bedstead,  which  is  used  for  a seat. 
Around  the  earthy  wall  is  hung  a strip  of  cotton  cloth  to  protect  visiters’ 
clothes  from  being  soiled.  In  a small  wooden  box  all  the  valuables  are 
kept,  such  as  clothes,  money,  and  ornaments.  On  the  wrall  are  hung  a 
few  pictures  of  saints  and  angels,  purchased  from  the  clergy,  with  here 


152 


ANCIENT  HOUSES. 


and  there  a wooden  cross,  decorated  with  flowers.  In  one  corner  are 
earthen  and  copper  pots  or  kettles,  with  a few  large  stones,  between 
which  the  fire  is  made.  In  another  corner  is  usually  found  a squadron 
of  white,  black,  or  yellow  Guinea  pigs,  grunting  and  burrowing  in  the 
ground  floor  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  aboriginal  children,  who  are 
very  partial  to  them  when  converted  into  cbupe. 

The  ancient  habitations  of  the  Indians  of  this  valley  are  rotund,  built 
entirely  of  moistened  clay  and  stone,  with  but  one  entrance.  These 
houses  are  going  out  of  fashion,  though  many  of  them  are  used  at  the 
present  day.  There  are  a number  of  ruins  about  the  valley,  supposed 
to  be  of  the  style  of  ancient  times.  The  art  of  building  archways  was 
an  accomplishment  of  the  Aymara  tribe,  of  which  we  found  no  signs 
near  the  Inca  capital. 

The  Indian  ploughs  a strait  furrow  with  a team  of  oxen,  although  he 
knew  nothing  of  such  animals  until  the  Spaniard  came.  He  rides  a 
young,  unbroken  horse  bare  backed,  sticking  so  close  to  the  hide  that 
his  legs  chafe  the  hair  off;  yet  his  forefathers  had  not  a donkey  to  prac- 
tise upon.  The  Indian  is  desirous  that  his  children  shall  be  taught.  A 
fine-looking  old  man  wanted  to  know  if  I would  have  his  son  to  bring 
up,  informing  me  of  his  good  qualities,  and  saying  that  Jose  had  told 
him  I was  the  sort  of  man  to  whom  he  should  give  his  child.  He  evi- 
dently was  not  pleased  at  my  declining  his  offer,  notwithstanding  Jose 
explained  to  him  that  my  home  was  far  off  to  the  north  ; to  which  he 
replied,  *•  No  importa;”  that  wyas  no  objection. 

A number  of  lakes  are  in  the  valley  and  on  the  mountains  in  the 
neighborhood  of  this  city.  During  a dry  time,  no  frogs  are  heard ; but 
the  moment  the  thunder  roars,  or  the  lightning  flashes,  they  sing  songs 
of  thankfulness ; the  valley  is  made  gay  with  their  voices  after  rains. 
The  wild  ducks  bathe  in  the  calm  waters,  near  the  willow  trees  which 
shade  the  Indian’s  hut,  and  is  also  adorned  with  sweet  orange  blossoms, 
while  the  dry  barren  hills  are  baked  into  crust,  and  the  sheared  sheep 
look  half  starved  for  want  of  pasture. 

The  clover  or  lucerne  that  fattens  horses,  mules,  horned  cattle,  and 
jackasses,  is  not  relished  by  the  sheep  and  llama.  The  latter  animal  is 
seldom  found  here,  and  unless  forced  down,  never  seeks  the  climate  or 
grasses  of  this  valley.  The  horse  as  well  as  black  cattle  thrive,  and  the 
hog  is  at  his  ease.  There  are  few  bees  ; we  observe  ants  on  clear  days 
providing  against  wet  weather;  they  are  very  exclusive.  Humming  birds 
are  numerous;  blackbirds,  and  three  or  four  kinds  resembling  the  cedar 
bird  and  sparrow,  are  seen.  An  ugly  and  very  ill-natured  hawk  resides 
on  the  sides  of  the  hills  among  the  cactus  and  the  dove3. 


ANCIENT  QUICHUA  INDIAN  HUT  COCHABAMBA  Bolivia 


SUCRE. 


153 


We  mounted  our  mules,  which  were  saddled  and  fastened  under  a lemon 
tree,  early  in  the  morning.  After  passing  through  the  rich  gardens  of 
Calacala,  we  wound  our  way  through  small  hushes  and  cactus  to  the 
hacienda  “ Miraflores,”  where  the  people  go  in  the  month  of  January 
every  year  to  eat  strawberries  and  cream.  As  we  rode  up  to  the  house  an 
old  Indian’s  head  appeared  on  the  one  side  of  a pea-patch  in  full  flower, 
as  the  sun  peeped  through  a gorge  in  the  mountains  on  the  other.  We 
were  admiring  the  rich  growth  of  vegetation  at  the  base  of  the  great 
mountain  range,  where  green  fields  of  barley  appear  at  the  mouth  of  a 
deep  ravine,  when  we  suddenly  heard  a crash,  and  looking  round,  saw 
Richards  with  mule,  saddle,  and  gear  falling  over  the  rocky  ground, 
for  there  was  no  road,  and  we  had  to  take  it  rough  and  tumble ; for- 
tunately there  was  nothing  broken  except  the  saddle-girth  and  the  stock 
of  a gun,  which  the  old  Indian  kindly  enough  assisted  us  in  repairing, 
and  sent  his  little  boy  to  show  us  a path  leading  up  the  mountain  side, 
dry  and  unproductive  for  some  distance.  Our  mules  were  iu  fine  con- 
dition, but  suffered  in  the  steep  ascent,  being  rather  fat  for  such  work. 
We  met  jackasses  descending  with  loads  of  potatoes,  beans,  peas,  barley, 
and  oca,  a species  of  potato,  of  a purple  color,  which  is  boiled  and  eaten 
as  a vegetable,  or  put  in  chupe.  The  Indians  pay  great  attention  to  the 
cultivation  of  the  oca ; its  vine  resembles  the  bean  plant.  Proceeding  still 
further,  wre  met  with  good  pasture  for  cattle.  The  oxen  were  in  fine 
condition,  equal  to  those  in  the  valley  below.  Here  the  Indians  and 
their  families  live  the  year  round,  cultivating  their  little  gardens  for  the 
markets  of  Cochabamba.  Our  mules  are  wet  with  perspiration,  and  we 
gain  an  uncultivated  and  uninhabited  region,  clothed  in  a thick  sod  of 
mountain  grasses.  The  whistle  of  the  vicuna  is  heard,  and  we  dis- 
mounted to  get  a shot  at  three  large  partridges,  the  size  of  hens,  the 
“Perdiz  Grande,”  which  are  found  on  the  pampas  of  Buenos  Ayres. 
Our  mules  suddenly  turn  gray  by  frost  formed  on  the  ends  of  their  hair. 
The  clouds  are  forming,  and  we  seat  ourselves  under  their  cool  shade  to 
breakfast,  with  3,  snow-capped  mountain  above,  and  far  below  the  valley 
and  city  in  full  view.  The  farther  side  of  the  valley  appears  tilted  up 
out  of  its  level ; beyond  are  the  everlasting  mountains. 

The  road  through  those  hills  leads  south  to  the  capital  Sucre,  with  a 
population  of  19,235.  Sucre  was  founded  by  the  title  of  “La  Plata,” 
silver,  in  a district  known  in  the  early  days  of  the  Spaniards  as  “Char- 
cas.”  It  was  afterwards  changed  to  “ Chuqui  Chaca,”  the  Indian  name 
for  “gold  place.”  It  seems  to  have  been  a doubtful  question  among  the 
Spaniards  which  was  most  appropriate,  a golden  or  a silver  title,  both 
metals  being  found  there.  The  republicans  called  the  country  after 
“ their  Washington,”  as  Bolivar  is  often  spoken  of. 


154 


CHUQUISACA TARIJA. 


The  department  of  Chuquisaca,  of  which  Sucreds  the  capital,  has  a 
population  of  1 1 7,503  creoles,  and  34,287  Quichua  Indians.  Half  of  that 
department  is  situated  in  the  Madeira  Plate,  and  the  other  in  La  Plata 
basin.  Sucre  stands  on  the  edge  of  each  ; the  water  flowing  from  the 
south  side  of  the  city  runs  into  the  South  Atlantic  ocean ; that  towards 
us  pays  tribute  to  the  North  Atlantic.  The  Mamore  waters  this  side  of 
the  department,  and  the  Pilcomayo  the  other  side.  We  left  the  latter 
stream,  when  first  noticed,  wdiere  it  broke  through  the  Andes  in  the  de- 
partment of  Potosi. 

The  climates  of  Potosi  and  Oruro  are  cold ; those  of  Cochabamba  and 
Chuquisaca  temperate.  The  sky  in  the  night  on  this  steppe  is  generally 
clear.  The  productions  of  Chuquisaca’  are  the  same  as  in  Cochabamba, 
with  the  addition  of  pasture  for  cattle,  and  timber  in  the  ravines.  In 
La  Plata  basin  the  traveller  finds  the  Indiau  cultivating  the  sugar  cane 
on  the  banks  of  the  Pilcomayo,  and  distilling  brandy  and  rum.  From 
grapes  he  makes  wine  of  good  quality.  The  sugar  mills  are  constructed 
of  timber  at  hand.  The  tropical  fruits,  as  the  orange,  lemon,  chirimoyas, 
granadillas,  and  limes,  grow  in  the  valleys,  while  the  productions  of  the 
table  lands  of  the  cold  regions  are  found  among  the  hills.  Near  the 
Andes,  in  the  Pilcomayo,  gold  has  been  washed,  and  among  the  moun- 
tains there  are  abandoned  silver  mines.  Five  silver  mines  are  reported 
to  be  worked  at  present.  Stone  coal,  tin,  copper,  lead,  and  iron  are 
natives.  Rice  is  raised  there,  and  the  chick  pea  or  brown  bean,  so  much 
esteemed  by  the  Spaniards.  Particles  of  gold,  rolled  down  from  the 
foot  of  the  Andes,  have  been  washed  from  the  alluvial  soil  near  the 
river.  It  appears  strange  that  gold  should  be  found  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Cordilleras,  and  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Andes,  while  on  top 
silver  predominates.  We  trace  a connected  outpouring  of  gold  on  the 
tributaries  of  the  Pilcomayo,  Mamore,  Beni,  and  Madre-de-Dios.  Our 
map  will  show  the  links  of  this  golden  chain  as  wmnderful  as  the  golden 
legends  told  of  the  wealth  of  the  Incas. 

There  are  some  very  curious  and  ancient  remains  -of  magnificent 
edifices  in  the  department  of  Chuquisaca  which  excite-  admiration,  but 
to  whom  they  originally  belonged  still  remains  a mystery. 

Looking  far  south  we  see  on  our  map  the  department  of  Tarija,  with 
a population  of  53,6G6  creoles,  and  9,108  friendly  Indians;  but  the 
eastern  portion  of  this  department  is  inhabited  by  tribes  of  very  savage 
Indians,  of  whom  there  is  little  known.  They  roam  among  the  forests 
and  grassy  plains,  or  among  those  great  mountains  which  separate 
Bolivia  from  the  Argentines. 

The  town  of  Tarija,  capital  of  the  department,  contains  a population 


155 


DISTRIBUTION  OF  VEGETABLE  LIFE. 

of  5,129,  and  is  situafl&l  on  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  river  Bermejo, 
which  flows  through  the  Argentine  confederation  into  the  Paraguay. 
My  impressions,  from  information,  are  that  the  Bermejo  is  a deeper  and 
a slower-motioned  stream  than  the  Pilcomayo,  and  that  small  sail-vessels 
may  reach  the  town  of  Oran,  a short  distance  south  of  the  southern 
boundary  of  Bolivia.  We  are  not,  however,  as  certain  of  this  as  we  are 
that  the  Pilcomayo  has  been  reported  not  navigable  in  Bolivia.  There 
is  a wide  field  for  exploration  on  La  Plata.  Grape-vines  produce  luxuri- 
ously in  Tarija,  and  there  the  Paraguay  tea — “yerba  del  Paraguay,”  is 
found.  Cochabamba,  Chuquisaca,  and  Tarija,  are  the  corn-growing  de- 
partments of  this  country ; Potosi  and  La  Paz  are  the  potato  districts. 

The  distribution  of  vegetable  life,  as  presented  to  us  in  their  elevated 
regions,  places  the  potato  the  highest ; the  other  plants  run  down  in 
order — quinuai  barley,  wheat,  coffee,  and  sugar-cane.  Therefore  the 
inhabitants  on  this  side  of  the  mountains  have  a self-sustaining  supply 
without  looking  to  other  countries  for  sugar,  wine,  flower,  potatoes,  or 
tea;  and  the  varieties  of  animal  life  offer  them  mutton  and  wool 
from  the  highlands,  with  beef  and  tallow  candles  from  the  steppe,  on 
which  exists  the  most  dense  population. 

Our  mules  rested,  and  our  breakfast  over,  we  mount  and  slowly 
struggle  upwards  again  ; the  bright  sun  shines  clear  upon  the  city  below, 
while  we  have  a cloudy  day.  It  is  interesting  to  see  from  under  this 
cloudy  curtain  the  beautiful  natural-colored  scene  on  this  stage  of  won- 
derful creation.  The  panorama  brilliantly  lighted  by  the  sun,  which 
sparkles  on  the  waters  of  the  river  as  they  dash  along  among  the  deep 
green  foliage.  The  lakes  are  like  mjrrors,  only  rippled  by  the  green 
breast  of  the  wild  duck.  A long  train  of  mules  winds  along  the  road 
from  the  Pacific;  we  just  hear  the  great  bell  of  the  cathedral  toll,  when 
the  clouds  unroll  and  fall,  shutting  out  light  and  view,  as  a mountain 
eagle  shrieks.  The  scene  soon  changes  as  we  climb  higher  up  among 
the  bare-jieaded  rocky  peaks ; on  our  left  is  one  gray  with  the  snows  of 
perpetual  winter ; on  the  right  a great  avalanche  of  earth  has  fallen  from 
. the  crown  of  a mountain  into  the  ravine,  as  though  blown  oft’  by  the 
prevailing  winds  from  the  opposite  side.  The  jackasses  we  meet  are 
loaded  with  fire-wood  and  charcoal,  from  an  extensive  growth  on  the 
eastern  face.  The  Indians  wear  long  hair  on  the  back  of  the  head,  and 
never  cultivate  a growth  on  their  faces. 

The  water  draining  from  the  snow  forms  the  Lake  Uarauara,  which 
is  dammed  up  at  its  outlet  during  the  rainy  season,  and  let  out  gradually 
in  the  dry,  for  the  supply  of  Cochabamba.  The  chart  will  show  its 
height  above  the  city.  We  were  disappointed  in  not  finding  game ; 


156 


UARAUARA SNOW  HILLS 


neither  water-fowl  nor  fish  were  seen.  The  watsto  >are  transparent  and 
silent ; nothing  was  moving  except  the  clouds  and  the  small  veins  of 
cold  snow-water.  Thin  sheets  of  ice  lie  near  the  lake,  and  patches  of 
snow  on  the  brew  of  the  mountains  resemble  white  cloths  spread  out 
on  the  ground  to  dry.  Some  of  the  rocks  were  broken  in  such  perfect 
forms  that  we  were  almost  induced  to  take  them  for  houses,  and  hunt 
up  a washwoman.  The  temperature  of  the  water  was  59°;  air,  54°. 
In  the  valley  of  Cochabamba  the  temperature  of  a spring  was  62° 
Fahrenheit. 

A small  quantity  of  the  snow  on  a peak  near  this  lake  remains 
through  the  dry  season ; in  the  wet  season  the  snowr-line  is  constantly 
sliding  up  and  down  the  sides  of  the  mountains.  When  very  damp  the 
snow  appears  lowest,  and  sometimes  reaches  half-way  down  to  Cocha- 
bamba ; in  the  morning,  as  the  sun  rises,  and  his  effects  are  felt,  the 
lower  edge  of  the  snow-line  is  melted  off,  and  to  the  eye  it  seems  travel- 
ling up  hill.  The  clouds  are  regulated  by  the  precipitation.  When 
there  is  much  rain  cloudy  days  follow,  and  the  curtain  round  the  valley 
arises  from  the  moisture  on  the  mountains.  The  lower  edge  of  the 
curtain  is  lowered  down  in  the  morning  exactly  to  the  lower  edge  of 
the  snow,  and  as  it  is  evaporated  the  curtain  rises  in  the  evening,  in 
time  for  those  in  the  valley  to  behold  the  sun  set  behind  clearly  defined 
snow-peaks. 

The  climate,  therefore,  is  very  variable  in  the  valley  between  the 
months  of  December  and  May.  I have  noted  the  thermometer  in  Co- 
chabamba, 12th  January,  at  69° ; in  five  minutes  after,  it  was  as  low  as 
52°  in  the  same  place,  in  the  shade.  A man  planting  tube  roses  in  his 
garden,  without  a coat,  and  in  sheeting  trousers,  would  run  suddenly 
into  the  house  for  thick  cloth  clothing ; in  the  mean  time  the  hard  hail- 
stones destroy  his  flowers  and  drive  cattle  from  their  pastures. 

Heavy  storms  frequently  arise  in  the  wet  season,  and  blow  violently 
through  the  valley,  from  southeast.  The  hail  beats  so  hard  upon  the 
pear  trees  that  the  delicate  leaves  are  broken  from  the  upper  branches, 
and  the  blossoms  are  destroyed.  The  hot  sun  withers  the  ends  of  the 
limbs,  and  they  die,  so  that  all  the  pear  trees  are  stunted ; and  instead 
of  large,  clear  limbs,  the  under  branches  are  sapped  by  numbers  of  suck- 
ers that  shoot  out  and  rob  the  fruit  of  its  life.  Hence  it  is  that  not  only 
pears  but  apples  are  very  indifferent,  but  might  be  improved  by  trim- 
ming the  trees,  which  the  Indian  does  not  seem  to  understand,  and  the 
creole  cares  less  for  the  tree  than  for  the  fruit. 

The  willow  grows  up  like  a prplar ; its  narrow  leaves  present  such  a 
small  surface  to  the  hail  or  sun  that  they  may  be  said  to  grow'  between  the 


LA  LAGUNA  DE  UARA-UARA 


INDIAN  KINDNESS. 


157 


drops.  It  is  the  talMt  tree  in  the  valley.  The  willow  naturally  grows 
by  the  side  of  streams,  where  the  roots  creep  out  into  water  or  swampy 
ground.  The  apple  produces  best  on  higher  and  drier  earth.  Almost 
every  plant  in  this  valley  has  to  be  raised  by  irrigation. 

We  returned,  after  a harassing  ride  to  Miraflores,  “ see  the  flowers,” 
where  we  found  the  old  Indian’s  wife  had  provided  chupe  for  us,  and 
lucerne  for  our  animals.  She  had  stirred  in  so  much  “aje” — the  red 
dwarf  pepper — that  we  preferred  her  boiled  corn.  This  seemed  so 
strange  she  dropped  several  stitches  in  the  woollen  stockings  she  was 
knitting,  and  looked  as  much  as  to  say,  “ Where  do  you  come  from,  that 
you  don’t  like  aje  ?”  When  she  was  paid  for  her  kindness,  she  laughed, 
gave  us  apples,  and  sent  her  son  to  show  the  way  through  the  peach  trees 
and  strawberry  patches.  The  attention  of  the  Indians  is  much  attracted 
to  hear  us  talking  in  English.  They  listen,  look  at  each  other,  listen 
again,  and  say  “ don’t  understand  that."  Then  they  close  up  and  stand 
in  deep  thought  as  they  reflect.  When  they  see  we  want  anything  they 
offer  assistance  or  kindness,  which  shows  a frank,  honest  hospitality  to 
strangers.  They  seldom  ask  for  anything;  when  they  receive  a gift  it 
is  with  a quiet  modesty,  which  speaks  their  thanks  more  plainly  than 
words. 

On  our  return  to  Buena  Vista,  in  town,  near  the  alameda,  we  found 
Jose  with  a fine  young  dog,  which  had  been  sent  by  a friend,  and  which 
we  named  Mamore.  The  dogs  in  this  country  are  often  a miserable 
breed  of  curs.  Mamore  appears  to  be  a cross  between  a Spanish  terrier 
and  the  mastiff;  while  very  brave  he  is  very  affectionate,  and  being 
young  enough  to  be  spoiled  by  too  much  company,  we  train  him  as 
sentinel  at  night,  and  keep  him  very  exclusive ; his  services  may  be 
very  much  needed  on  the  journey ; his  color  is  yellowish  brown,  and 
he  is  of  large  size.  The  Indians  are  so  partial  to  dogs  that  they  raise 
more  than  they  can  conveniently  support.  ' The  young  aborigines  seem 
to  have  greater  fondness  for  animals  than  for  each  other.  We  have 
seen  two  of  them  pelting  one  another  with  mud  balls,  while  a third 
seated  on  a sow,  looking  with  delight  at  nine  squealers  helping  them- 
selves to  milk.  When  she  rose  on  her  fore-feet,  the  child  rolled  off 
among  the  pigs,  laughingly  grasping  the  first  tail  in  his  way,  to  the  great 
annoyance  of  his  hungry  companions. 

We  have  news  of  the  mail  being  stopped  between  Sucre  and  Oruro 
by  a heavy  fall  of  snow  on  the  Andes,  which  was  deep  enough  to 
break  in  the  roofs  of  houses  in  Oruro,  while  here  peaches  are  sold  in  the 
market. 

The  peach  tree  flourishes  better  than  the  apple,  but  both  fruit  and 


15S 


BALLS— —FROLIC. 


tree  are  small.  The  quince  grows  to  an  unusin^Kze  in  the  valley,  and 
the  trees  are  loaded  with  fruit  of  golden  yellow. 

The  merchants  are  keeping  back  their  remittances  to  the  Pacific  on 
account  of  numerous  robberies  reported  in  the  snowy  regions.  ' 

The  young  gentlemen  give  a ball  every  month  in  the  palace,  and  per- 
formances at  the  theatre,  which  was  once  a church.  On  both  occasions 
the  families  of  the  city  are  brought  sociably  together.  The  balls  are- 
believed  to  produce  political  concord,  and  are  very  gay.  A Sucre  lady 
inquired  if  “ Cochabamba  girls  dressed  in  good  taste  ?”  The  creoles' 
seem  anxious  to  know  the  opinion  strangers  have  of  them.  The  North 
American  midshipmen  used  to  say,  the  height  of  their  enjoyment  was 
to  dance  with  the  South  American  girls.  The  beauty,  manners,  and 
grace  of  the  ladies  here  cannot  be  disputed  ; they  are  naturally  gifted 
with  a pleasing  flow  of  conversation,  keen-sighted,  and  witty.  Their 
bright  black  eyes  flash  beneath  an  irresistible  and  modest  smile  ; their 
long,  black  hair  is  neatly  arranged  abroad,  but  at  home  it  usually  hangs 
plaited  over  the  shoulders  and  breast.  They  appear  more  proud  of 
small  feet  than  of  lovely  eyes  and  snow-white  necks.  In  walking  they 
carry  themselves  straight,  and  show  their  graceful  figures  to  advantage ; 
their  motions  are  slow  and  steady.  A bloom  on  the  cheek  gives  them 
a fresh,  healthy  appearance  as  they  ride  spirited  horses  by  the  side  of 
their  lovers,  through  the  gardens  of  Calacala,  before  sunrise  in  the 
morning. 

At  midday,  on  the  12th  of  May,  1852,  we  mounted  and  followed  a 
train  of  nineteen  loaded  mules  towards  the  east.  Our  baggage  was  re- 
duced one  half  upon  each  animal.  By  law,  the  arriero  may  charge  full 
price  in  descending  the  eastern  side  of  the  Andes  for  half  the  load  carried 
on  the  roads  of  the  table  lands.  The  train  followed  a white  mare  with  a 
bell  hung  to  her  neck.  Four  arrieros  were  accompanied  by  a number  of 
women,  carrying  jars  of  chicha.  The  party  seemed  to  have  been  drink- 
ing over  night,  and  bent  upon  a frolic.  Theysucceeded  in  seducing  Jose, 
who  rode  along  with  our  tent  pole  on  his  shoulder,  and  hat  pulled  over 
his  eyes,  ordering  about  men  and  women,  until  I was  called  upon  to 
settle  a difficulty  between  him  and  the  chief  arriero’s  wife.  Richard?  ' 
was  carefully  guarding  Mainore  for  fear  we  would  lose  him.  After  9 
some  trouble  in  keeping  the  baggage  mules  from  escaping  up  the  cross 
streets,  wTe  bid  farewell  to  Cochabamba.  On  the  river  bank  the  women 
seated  themselves  in  a row  to  take  the  last  dram  with  the  men  who 
were  going  with  us.  They  shouted,  sang,  and  danced ; then  shaking 
hands  all  round,  the  arrieros  called  to  their  mules,  and  wTe  all  moved 
along  single  file  on  our  way  home  through  the  river  bed,  which  was 
now  dry  again,  the  wet  season  being  just  over.  • 


SANTA  CRUZ. 


159 


The  minister  of  sent  circular  instructions  to  all  the  authorities  on 
my  route,  rubriconded  by  President  Belzu,  by  which  they  ordered  the 
prefects  and  governors  to  facilitate  the  expedition. 

The  President  usually  signs  public  documents  with  his  peculiar  mark 
or  flourish  alone,  without  writing  his  name.  No  man’s  signature  in  the 
country  is  valued  without  getting  him  to  “ rubricar ” the  document 
also.  The  custom  is  a Spanish  one.  They  have  been  known  to  use 
their  own  blood  or  red  ink,  but  the  black  ink  does  as  well  and  is  lawful. 
Our  receipt  book  is  a most  flourishing  volume.  After  Jose  signs  his 
name  for  his  monthly  wages,  he  straddles  his  legs,  turns  his  head  side- 
ways, and  gives  a most  gallant  dash,  occupying  the  remainder  of  the 
page,  often  through  the  paper  on  to  the  next  leaf,  with  the  point  of  the 
pen.  We  observe  all  along  the  route  that  the  people  generally  dash 
better  than  they  write.  The  rule  may  have  originated  for  the  advantage 
of  those  who  could  not  write. 

Passing  over  a level  road  and  through  the  small  town  of  Sacaba,  we 
slung  our  hammock  on  the  piazza  of  a hacienda  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge 
of  mountains.  Mamore  whipped  the  big  house-dog  and  played  with  the 
small  ones,  while  the  fleas  retaliated  upon  us.  The  mule  drivers  laughed 
among  themselves  when  they  saw  us  washing  our  faces  in  the  morning, 
while  they  were  snugly  wrapped  up  in  their  ponchos.  The  country  girls 
are  quite  pretty.  The  drovers  we  met  on  the  road  with  horned  cattle 
for  the  Cochabamba  market',  said  they  came  from  Villa  Grande,  in  the 
department  of  Santa  Cruz,  to  the  southeast  of  us.  The  cattle  come  up 
with  the  winds.  They  are  of  good  size  and  condition. 

We  turned  to  the  northeast,  rising  up  on  the  mountain.  Leaving  the 
valley  of  Cochabamba,  the.road  lies  through  a gorge  in  a range  where 
the  Indians  were  digging  potatoes  and  reaping  barley.  Descending 
again,  we  encamped  for  the  night  by  an  Indian  stone  hut,  amidst  the 
harvest  fields.  Don  Cornello,  our  head  arriero,  purchased  a sheep  in 
partnership  with  us,  and  his  men  dressed  it  for  the  journey.  One  of 
them,  who  suffered  with  chills,  Cornello  dosed  with  a solution  of  cin- 
chona bark  from  a bottle  he  carried  with  his  bread  in  his  saddle 
wallets. 

In  this  small  mountain  basin,  the  thermometer  stands  at  52°,  at  6 p. 
m.,  and  wet  bulb,  53°,  with  heavy  frost  in  the  morning.  From  the 
last  ridge  of  mountains  we  see  that  the  waters  flowing  towards  the  north- 
east go  directly  to  the  river  Mamore,  and  those  which  run  to  the  south- 
east are  tributary  to  the  same  stream,  winding  around  the  ridge,  at 
the  end  of  which  is  situated  the  city  of  Santa  Cruz,  which  has  a popula- 
tion of  six  thousand  souls.  'Ike  department  contains  a population  of 


160 


PRODUCTIONS  OF  SANTA  CRUZ. 

forty-two  thousand  two  hundred  and  eighty-foi^Pvhites,  and  twenty- 
six  thousand  three  hundred  and  seventy-three  aborigines.  Santa  Cruz 
is  the  rice-growing  state  of  this  country  ; it  being  mostly  situated  in  the 
bottom  of  the  Madeira  Plate.  Its  climate  is  truly  tropical — both  hot 
and  moist.  It  is  well  wooded  and  watered.  Among  the  level  lauds 
there  are  lakes,  and  on  the  road  to  the  town  of  Matto  Grosso,  there  are 
alternately  forests  and  plains  covered  with  a growth  of  herd  grass  on 
which  cattle  flourish.  Tropical  fruits  are  raised  in  the  gardens  of  Santa 
Cruz.  The  weavers  of  Cochabamba  receive  their  cotton  thence,  as  well 
as  sugar  and  molasses.  Both  coffee  and  chocolate  are  of  excellent 
quality,  and  some  of  the  tobacco  is  equal  to  that  of  Cuba.  The  Nankin 
cotton  of  China  is  produced  of  a bright  color,  and  contrasts  beautifully 
with  the  white.  The  vanilla  bean  grows  by  the  side  of  the  Indigo  plant. 
The  Indian  cultivates  the  pea-nut  along  the  sandy  banks  of  the  rivers. 
The  white  man  reports  signs  of  cinnabar  among  the  mountains  at  the 
end  of  this  ridge,  where  wheat,  maize,  potatoes,  and  grapes  are  found. 

The  skins  of  spotted  and  black  tigers  are  exported  to  the  cold  depart- 
ments, with  hides  of  horned  cattle,  horses,  and  the  sloth.  The  feathers 
and  skins  of  rare  birds,  snakes,  and  lizards  are  gathered  among  forest 
trees  of  the  most  brilliant  colors.  The  cochineal  insect  has  its  place, 
while  different  species  of  bees  supply  the  inhabitants  with  honey  and 
wax. 

The  distance  from  the  town  of  Santa  Cruz  to  Cochabamba  is  one 
hundred  and  seven  leagues.  The  arrieros  generally  lag  along  the  road 
thirty  days  with  a cargo  of  chocolate,  coffee,  and  sugar,  or  with  cotton 
manufactures,  glassware,  and  salt  in  return.  The  trip  from  Sar)ta  Cruz  to 
Cobija  is  made  generally  within  three  months  by  the  way  of  Cochabamba 
and  Potosi ; the  distance  by  the  road  being  three  hundred  and  forty -five 
leagues.  The  return  cargo  may  arrive  in  three  months  more,  but  it  is 
not  certain  that  two  trips  to  the  Pacific  coast  and  back  can  be  made  in 
one  year.  It  must  not  be  supposed  a very  extensive  foreign  trade  is 
carried  on  with  the  department  of  Santa  Cruz,1  though  a most  dense 
population  is  found  on  its  western  border.  When  we  look  at  the  list  of 
productions  in  that  region  of  country,  we  are  struck  with  the  independ- 
ence of  its  inhabitants  upon  all  external  trade.  A breakfast  table  in 
Santa  Cruz,  constructed  of  beautiful  cedar  wood,  is  described,  covered 
with  white  cotton  cloth,  silver  plates  and  dishes,  with  silver  cups,  forks, 
and  spoons  ; coffee,  sugar,  cream,  butter,  corn  and  wheat  bread,  mutton, 
eggs,  and  oranges,  are  all  produced  in  the  province.  Beef  is  found  on 
the  pampa,  game  in  the  woods,  and  fish  in  the  rivers.  Potatoes  and  all 
the  garden  vegetables  are  raised  upon  the  plantations.  The  arm  chair 


DAILY  LIFE. 


161 


of  the  creole  is  made  of  the  ornamental  “ Caoba,”  or  mahogany  tree. 
Eight  guests  may  be  seated,  each  one  in  a different  species  of  mahogany. 
His  Indian  servants  gather  grapes,  make  wine,  collect  the  tropical  fruits, 
and  tobacco ; while  his  wife  or  daughter  take  pride  in  well-made  cigars. 
The  climate  is  such  that  horses  roam  about  all  the  year  ; there  is  no 
expense  for  stabling  the  animals.  No  barns  are  necessary  for  the 
protection  of  his  harvests  during  a hard  winter.  His  house  may  be  as 
open  as  a shed.  What  little  thin  clothing  and  bedding  his  family  re- 
quire are  supplied  by  the  soil,  and  worked  into  fine  cloth  by  the  hands 
of  Indians,  who  spin,  weave,  and  sew.  Silver  he  cares  little  for  except 
in  table  use.  Gold  ounces  are  melted  into  crosses  and  earrings  for  the 
Indian  girls.  The  inhabitants  of  Santa  Cruz  are  therefore  the  most  in- 
dolent in  the  world ; under  its  hospitable  climate,  few  men  exert  them- 
selves beyond  what  is  absolutely  necessary. 

It  may  be  well  to  give,  from  report,  an  outline  of  the  daily  life  of  a 
family  in  this  town.  Very  early  in  the  morning  the  creole,  getting  out 
of  bed,  throws  himself  into  a liamac ; his  wife  stretches  herself  upon 
a bench  near  by,  while  the  children  seat  themselves  with  their  legs  under 
them  on  the  chairs,  all  in  their  night  dresses.  The  Indian  servant  girl 
enters  with  a cup  of  chocolate  for  each  member  of  the  family.  After 
which,  she  brings  some  coals  of  fire  in  a silver  dish.  The  wife  lights  her 
husband  a cigar,  then  one  for  herself.  Some  time  is  spent  reclining, 
chatting,  and  regaling.  The  man  slowly  pulls  on  his  cotton  trousers, 
woollen  coat,  leather  shoes,  and  vicuna  hat,  with  his  neck  exposed  to  the 
fresh  air, — silk  handkerchiefs  are  scarce, — he  walks  to  some  near 
neighbors,  with  whom  he  again  drinks  chocolate  and  smokes  another 
cigar. 

At  midday  a small  low  table  is  set  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  and  the 
family  go  to  breakfast.  The  wife  sits  next  to  her  husband ; the  women 
are  very  pretty  and  affectionate  to  their  husbands.  He  chooses  her  from 
among  jive,  there  being  about  that  number  of  women  to  one  man  in 
the  town.  The  children  seat  themselves,  and  the  dogs  form  a ring  be- 
hind. The  first  dish  is  a chupe  of  potatoes  with  large  pieces  of  meat. 
The  man  helps  himself  first,  and  throws  his  bones  straight  across  the 
table  ; a child  dodges  his  head  to  give  it  a free  passage,  and  the  dogs 
rush  after  it  as  it  falls  upon  the  ground  floor.  A child  then  throws  his 
bone,  the  mother  dodges,  and  the  dogs  rush  behind  her.  The  second 
dish  holds  small  pieces  of  beef  without  bones.  Dogs  are  now  fighting. 
Next  comes  a dish  with  finely-chopped  beef ; then  beef  soup,  vegetables, 
and  fruits  ; finally,  coffee  or  chocolate.  After  breakfast  the  man  pulls 
off  his  trousers  and  coat  and  lies  down  with  his  drawers  in  the  liamac. 
II 


162 


DAILY  LIFE. 


His  wife  lights  him  a cigar.  She  finds  her  way  back  to  bed  with  her 
cigar.  The  dogs  jump  up  and  lie  down  on  the  chairs — the  fleas  bite 
them  on  the  ground.  The  Indian  girl  closes  both  doors  and  windows, 
takes  the  children  out  to  play,  while  the  rest  of  the  family  sleep. 

At  2 p.  m.  the  church  bells  ring  to  let  the  people  know  the  priests 
are  saying  a prayer  for  them,  which  rouses  them  up.  The  man  rises, 
stretches  his  hand  above  his  head,  and  gapes ; the  dogs  get  down,  and 
whiningly  stretch  themselves ; while  the  wife  sets  up  in  bed  and  loudly 
calls  out  for  “ fire the  Indian  girl  re-appears  with  a “ chunk  ” for  her 
mistress  to  light  her  master  another  cigar,  and  she  smokes  again  herself. 
The  dinner,  which  takes  place  between  3 and  5,  and  is  nearly  the  same 
as  breakfast,  except  when  a beef  is  recently  killed  by  the  Indians,  then 
they  have  a broil.  The  ribs  and  other  long  bones  of  the  animal  are 
trimmed  of  flesh,  leaving  the  bones  thinly  coated  with  meat ; these  are 
laid  across  a fire  and  roasted ; the  members  of  the  family,  while  em- 
ployed with  them,  look  as  if  all  were  practising  music. 

A horse  is  brought  into  the  house  by  an  Indian  man,  who  holds  while 
the  “patron”  saddles  and  bridles  him;  he  then  puts  on  a large  pair  of 
silver  spurs,  which  cost  forty  dollars,  and  mounting,  he  rides  out  of  the 
front  door  to  the  opposite  house  ; halting,  he  takes  off  his  hat  and  calls 
out  “ Buenas  tardes,  senoritas” — good  evening,  ladies.  The  ladies  make 
their  appearance  at  the  door ; one  lights  him  a cigar;  another  mixes  him 
a glass  of  lemonade  to  refresh  himself  after  his  ride.  He  remains  in 
the  saddle  talking,  while  they  lean  gracefully  against  the  door-posts, 
smiling  with  their  bewitching  eyes.  He  touches  his  hat  and  rides  off 
to  another  neighbor.  After  spending  the  afternoon  in  this  way,  he 
rides  into  his  house  again.  The  Indian  holds  the  horse  by  the  bridle 
while  the  master  dismounts.  Taking  oil'  the  saddle,  he  throws  it  into 
one  chair,  the  bridle  into  another,  his  spurs  on  a third,  and  himself  into 
the  hamac ; the  Indian  leads  out  the  horse,  the  dogs  pull  down  the 
riding  gear  to  the  floor,  and  lay  themselves  on  their  usual  bedsteads. 

Chocolate  and  cigars  are  repeated.  Should  the  creole  be  handed  a 
letter  of  introduction  by  a stranger  travelling  through  the  country,  he 
immediately  offers  his  hamac  and  a cup  of  chocolate.  The  baggage 
will  be  attended  to,  and  as  long  as  the  traveller  remains,  he  is  treated 
by  the  family  with  a degree  of  kindness  and  politeness  seldom  met  with 
in  fashionable  parts  of  the  world.  No  alteration  will  be  made  in  their 
mode  of  living  on  account  of  his  being  among  them,  except  that  the 
dogs  and  horses  are  kept  out  of  the  house,  and  there  is  less  dodging  of 
bones.  Pride  and  a natural  feeling  of  good  manners  prevent  the  stranger 
from  seeing  such  performances.  The  creole  speaks  of  the  wealth  of  his 


SPANISH  LANGUAGE. 


163 


country  in  the  most  exaggerated  manner ; he  has  so  many  of  the  good 
things  of  the  world  at  his  door,  that  he  naturally  boasts ; he  thinks  little 
of  other  parts  of  the  world ; he  has  no  idea  of  leaving  his  own  fruits 
aud  flowers.  The  roads  are  bad  ; he  cares  little  for  their  use.  When 
he  leaves  his  native  city,  it  is  more  for  pleasure  than  for  commerce. 
He  is  not  obliged  to  build  railroads  that  he  may  receive  at  low  rates  of 
freight  the  tea  of  China  ; the  sugar  of  the  West  Indies;  the  flour,  iron,  or 
cotton  goods  of  North  America.  His  own  climate  is  so  agreeable  that  he 
seldom  wishes  to  travel ; there  is  no  place  like  his  home ! When  the  trav- 
eller inquires  how  he  would  like  to  see  a steamboat  come  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Piray  river,  the  water  of  which  he  drinks,  his  eyes  brighten,  and 
he  smilingly  says  “ he  would  be  delighted at  once  telling  what  he 
would  put  on  board  of  her  as  a cargo  for  the  people  who  sent  her.  He 
is  contented  with  the  roads  constructed  by  the  hand  of  the  Creator  of 
all  things  ; but  the  creole  is  honest  in  his  desire  to  see  wrhat  he  has  never 
yet  seen — a steam-engine  move  a vessel.  He  is  ready  to  sell  his  pro- 
duce to  those  who  come  to  him ; yet  when  you  inquire  w’hat  he  desires 
from  other  parts  of  the  world,  it  is  very  certain,  from  the  length  of  time 
it  takes  him  to  answer,  that  he  seldom  thinks  he  is  in  want  of  anything; 
and  if  asked  how  much  he  is  willing  to  subscribe  towards  purchasing  a 
steamboat,  his  usual  answer  is,  that  “ he  has  no  money,  and  is  very 
poor !” 

The  Spanish  language  is  more  generally  spoken  in  Santa  Cruz  than 
in  other  parts  of  this  country.  The  Indians  are  taught  and  practise 
that  language  to  the  exclusion  of  their  own.  The  people  of  Santa  Cruz 
pride  themselves  upon  their  pure  Spanish,  and  ridicule  the  speech  of 
those  of  other  towns.  The  teachers  of  most  of  the  schools  in  Cocha- 
bamba are  natives  of  Santa  Cruz,  as  well  as  the  most  intelligent  of  the 
clergy,  who  are  generally  foremost  to  speak  of  the  advantages  of  estab- 
lishing trade  with  the  Atlantic  ocean  by  the  natural  river  road,  instead 
of  looking  constantly  towards  the  Pacific.  Santa  Cruz  may  be  called 
the  frontier  town  of  the  Spanish  race,  who  have  swept  over  the  country 
from  the  Pacific.  The  bay  of  Arica  bears  due  west  from  Santa  Cruz. 
As  the  coast  of  South  America  bends  at  Arica,  so  the  Spanish  have 
pressed  far  in  towards  the  centre  of  the  continent,  placing  those  on  the 
eastern  border  of  Bolivia  nearer  to  the  Atlantic  than  the  people  of  Peru ; 
although  they  seem  to  be  farthest  from  the  markets  of  the  world,  they 
are  the  nearest,  and  are  best  prepared  for  entering  into  commercial  rela- 
tions with  the  United  States  of  the  North. 

The  industrial,  agricultural,  and  manufacturing  people  of  this  country 
are  principally  among  the  aborigines.  They  plant  the  sugar-cane, 


164 


CHIQUITOS — INDIANS. 


gather  the  coffee,  work  the  mines,  and  transport  silver,  copper,  and 
tin  to  the  coast  of  the  Pacific.  Looking  on  the  map,  and  running  the 
eye  along  the  road  from  the  town  of  Santa  Cruz  towards  the  southeast, 
the  traveller  finds  a country  nearly  level.  Among  hills  near  the  river 
Paraguay,  in  the  province  of  Chiquitos,  the  inhabitants  are  composed 
of  many  tribes  of  Indians ; some  savages  are  warlike,  while  others  are 
inoffensive  and  friendly  to  the  whites.  Those  of  the  small  villages  of 
Santiago  and  Jesus  are  described  as  nearer  the  color  of  chalk  than 
of  copper,  and  to  be  a robust,  intelligent  people,  willing  to  be  taught 
the  Spanish  language,  to  cultivate  the  soil,  tend  cattle,  and  give  up 
the  life  of  wandering  for  that  of  the  civilized  man,  under  the  instruc- 
tion and  labors  of  the  Jesuits ; while  the  tribes  south  of  them,  near  the 
mouths  of  the  rivers  Pilcomayo  and  Bermejo,  obstinately  refused  any 
such  interference,  and  remain  savage  to  this  day.  They  are  the  Gran 
Chaco  Indians,  and  are  called  Tobas.  As  they  are  unfriendly,  we  have 
no  account  of  their  number,  and  will  confine  ourselves  to  the  Cliiqui- 
teiios,  who  understand  the  art  of  planting  and  gathering  a harvest,  the 
management  of  cattle  on  the  grassy  plains,  and  the  collecting  of  wax 
from  the  forest  trees,  with  which,  and  the  cotton  they  cultivate,  they 
pay  tribute  to  the  State,  as  well  as  with  salt  from  lakes  found  in  the 
wild  regions.  In  their  little  huts  are  carpenters,  blacksmiths,  silver- 
smiths, shoemakers,  tailors,  and  tanners.  Their  houses  are  usually  built 
of  adobe,  and  thatched  with  coarse  grass ; yet  they  were  taught  to  burn 
tiles  for  the  roof  of  their  little  church.  For  the  purpose  of  manufactur- 
ing sugar  and  melting  wax,  they  erected  founderies  to  smelt,  and  fabri- 
cated their  own  copper  boilers.  The  cotton  of  their  small  farms  is 
woven  by  hand  into  ponchos,  hamacs,  saddle  cloths,  and  the  fine  cloths 
of  which  their  white  frocks  are  made,  after  a fashion  of  their  own  inven- 
tion, in  bark.  The  women  in  Chiquitos  are  good  farmers ; most  of 
the  spinuing  is  performed  by  them,  as  well  as  the  manufacturing  of 
chicha  from  corn  and  yuca. 

They  find  gold  and  silver  in  the  tributaries  of  the  Otuguis  river,  with 
which  they  decorate  the  altars  of  their  churches  and  hammer  into 
crosses,  ear  and  finger-rings. 

The  men  make  straw  hats,  more  for  sale  than  for  their  own  use — for 
both  sexes  go  bare-headed — a good  sign  of  a delightful  climate,  as  it  is 
said  to  be.  The  baskets  made  of  the  leaf  of  the  palm-tree,  which  grows 
in  the  plains,  are  carried  on  their  backs  as  they  travel  through  the 
country.  On  such  occasions  they  are  armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  In 
the  Spanish  settlements,  near  the  unfriendly  tribes,  they  are  permitted 
to  attend  church  with  war-clubs  and  other  weapons,  for  the  protection  of 


CHIQUITENOS. 


16-5 


their  wives  and  children  from  an  attack  while  at  prayers.  The  church 
bell  is  a signal  to  the  savage,  but  he  takes  occasion  at  times  to  commit 
murder  under  its  calling. 

Their  houses  are  very  small,  with  but  one  entrance,  so  narrow  and 
low  that  it  is  supposed  the  country  was  called  Chiquitos,  because  of  the 
little  door-ways.  When  first  the  traveller  peeps  into  the  house  all  is 
darkness ; on  entering,  the  light  from  the  hole  he  came  through  shines 
against  a few  earthen  pots  made  by  the  women,  an  axe,  macheta  or  cut- 
lass, bows  and  arrows,  pretty  Indian  girls,  and  dogs  without  number. 
The  boys  are  rambling  about ; the  old  Indian  and  his  wife  are  cultiva- 
ting the  chacra.  Their  great  ambition  seems  to  be  celebrating  the  feast 
days  of  the  church,  playing  ball,  drinking  chicha,  and  making  love  to 
the  women. 

These  Indians  are  great  musicians,  playing  upon  the  violin  and  tam- 
borine,  while  the  women  sing  and  dance  with  grace.  Few  of  them 
quarrel ; should  a difficulty  take  place,  seldom  more  than  three  or  four 
blows  are  struck.  They  all  carry  knives,  but  these  are  not  often  drawn. 
If  one  man  kills  another,  his  shame,  compunction,  and  fear  in  after  life 
is  much  worse  than  death,  I am  told. 

The  Chiquiteiios  are  very  apt  in  learning  to  read,  write,  and  calculate. 
They  have  intelligence  enough  to  know  that  knowledge  is  valuable  to 
them,  and  the  children  speak  Spanish  with  great  ease. 

Lime  and  plaster  of  Paris  are  found  among  the  hilly  portions  of  the 
province.  Salt  from  the  lakes  is  of  great  value  where  cattle  are  raised. 
There  is  a market  for  it  in  the  Argentine  republic,  Paraguay,  and  in  the 
Brazilian  district  of  Matto  Grosso.  In  all  parts  of  this  province  saltpetre 
is  found,  of  which  the  aborigines  manufacture  powder,  to  make  fire- 
works for  the  churches.  The  rockets,  they  send  up  towards  the  heavens, 
under  the  dark  shade  of  night,  light  the  wilderness  around,  and  was 
one  means  used  by  the  Jesuits  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  wild  man 
to  seek  religion.  The  Chiquiteiios  are  a peaceful  race  ; their  gunpowder 
is  only  used  for  the  purpose  of  lighting  the  way  towards  Heaven — a 
lesson  to  civilized  men  who  sometimes  employ  it  too  freely  for  the  de- 
struction of  their  fellows  on  the  earth,  of  which  they  form  a hell ! 

The  Indians  cast  church  bells.  Brass,  copper,  and  zinc  are  sent  by 
the  Ayinara  Indians  from  the  Titicaca  basin  in  exchange  for  sugar  and 
wax.  They  are  unacquainted  with  the  process  of  casting  cannon,  or 
the  art  of  making  the  brass  armor  of  olden  times. 

The  Indian  of  Chiquitos,  like  the  creole  of  Santa  Cruz,  has  his  full 
share  of  the  delights  of  this  earth,  which  he  enjoys  in  his  own  way. 
When  he  takes  a faney  to  wear  striped  trousers,  he  plants  a row  of 


166 


LABORS  OF  THE  JESUITS. 


white  cotton  and  a row  of  yellow.  These  colors  contrast  without  the 
trouble  of  dye-stuff;  should  he  wish  a blue,  he  plants  a row  of  indigo ; 
when  he  requires  red,  he  gathers  cochineal  from  among  the  woods» 
where  he  also  finds  a bark  which  produces  a deep  black,  which  the 
women  often  employ  to  dye  their  white  dresses. 

The  heart-leaved  bixa  grows  wild;  the  vanilla  bean  scents  the  door- 
way, while  the  coffee  and  chocolate  trees  shade  it.  The  sugar  cane 
may  be  planted  in  any  part  of  the  province,  to  be  manufactured  into 
sugar,  rum,  and  molasses  during  the  year  of  planting.  The  Indian  un- 
derstands the  art  of  distilling.  He  cannot  be  considered  intemperate, 
generally ; considering  his  partiality  for  chicha,  we  are  inclined  to  give 
him  credit  for  self-denial,  except  when  the  saints’  days  of  the  Catholic 
church  are  celebrated,  then  it  seems  to  be  understood  that  much  drink- 
ing is  one  of  the  conditions.  Whatever  good  ideas  may  be  instilled  into 
their  minds  by  the  worship  in  the  morning,  are  generally  lost  under  the 
effects  of  strong  drinks  at  night.  This  custom  shocks  the  stranger.  An 
excuse  has  been  offered  by  some  who  resided  among  the  more  savage 
race  of  men,  that  in  the  exertions  of  the  Jesuits  to  change  the  worship 
of  these  people  from  their  own  barbarous  imitations  of  the  actions  of 
tigers  and  poisonous  serpents,  the  priests  were  obliged  to  allow  them  to 
continue  many  of  the  most  innocent  popular  customs,  such  as  dancing, 
singing,  and  drinking,  as  well  as  fighting  sham  battles  on  a Sunday 
evening,  until  they  were  enabled  to  lead  them  gradually  to  perceive 
these  were  not  the  forms  of  worship  which  would  most  please  the 
Almighty.  Among  these  Indians,  as  among  the  people  of  Japan,  “ every 
custom  is  a part  of  their  religion.”  Music  has  a powerful  effect  upon  the 
savage,  and  therefore  the  Jesuits  encouraged  them  to  cultivate  it,  and 
as  its  influence  over  the  limbs  of  the  women  was  so  great,  that  they 
could  not  stand  still  during  that  part  of  the  church  service,  it  was  thought 
best  to  permit  them  to  dance  at  the  door,  after  which  they  quietly  en- 
tered to  say  their  prayers.  But  when  the  music  commenced  again  they 
returned  to  dance  in  their  savage  fashion.  They  are  naturally  a good 
and  tractable  people,  finally  willing  to  do  their  dancing  at  home,  or  only 
on  particular  occasions  at  church  after  the  Jesuits  were  long  enough 
among  them.  At  the  present  day  there  are  times  when  the  war  dance 
is  allowed  in  front  of  the  church,  performed  by  the  able-bodied  men  of 
the  nation  with  war  clubs  and  hatchets  in  their  hands. 

The  drinking  of  chicha  was  a portion  of  the  primitive  worship  of  the 
aborigines.  They  no  doubt  honestly  believed  that,  the  more  happy  they 
made  themselves  while  paying  respect  to  the  Creator  of  all  things,  the 
better  He  was  satisfied ! They  were  sincere  in  their  thankfulness  to 


PRODUCTION'S  OF  CHIQUITOS. 


167 


God  for  the  blessirf^s  they  received  at  His  hands.  The  Jesuits  found 
that  the  Indian  had  adopted  this  means  of  praise,  and  the  effects  pro- 
duced were  so  agreeable,  that  it  was  not  an  easy  matter  to  persuade  the 
old  Indian  to  give  up  his  liquor.  If  force  were  applied  he  undoubtedly 
would  fight  for  it,  so  that  a mild  manner  had  to  be  pursued  until  time 
worked  its  wonders.  The  Jesuits  were  obliged  to  keep  back  an  expres- 
sion of  disapprobation  of  this  custom  for  the  purpose  of  converting  the 
savage  in  any  way,  and  persuaded  him  to  attend  church  in  the  morning, 
and  to  postpone  drinking  until  after  the  service.  The  Indian  entered 
willingly  into  this  compromise,  and  after  being  fastened  up  in  church 
under  new  forms,  which  he  did  not  understand,  he  found  it  rather  dry, 
compared  to  what  he  had  been  accustomed  to.  So  the  moment  he  got 
out  he  returned  to  his  mode  of  worship,  and  in  the  afternoon  became 
generally  intoxicated.  The  women  dance  to  music  all  the  way  home 
on  the  road ; the  frolic  is  kept  up  the  greater  part  of  the  night.  On 
Monday  morning  the  congregation  were  generally  complaining  from  the 
effects  of  dissipation.  This  was  the  time  at  which  the  influence  of  the 
priest  was  brought  to  bear  upon  them.  They  were  taught  the  art  of 
cultivation;  there  minds  were  diverted  by  novel  undertakings.  The 
women-were  encouraged  to  spin,  attend  to  the  cotton  plant,  and  to  make 
use  of  chocolate.  There  was  little  or  no  difficulty  in  keeping  them  from 
chicha  during  the  week,  as  they  seldom  made  improper  use  of  it  except 
at  the  time  devoted  to  religious  worship,  and  that  had  now  become  a 
fixed  one  by  the  Jesuits,  namely — after  six  days  of  labor. 

Among  the  forests  are  found  gums,  which  are  used  at  the  altar ; the 
Indians  gather  and  sell  them  to  the  church  for  incense.  They  also 
collect  the  sponge  plant  from  which  they  extract  oil.  They  seek  trans- 
parent copal  with  the  copaiba  balsam,  the  gum  of  the  storax-tree,  and 
roots  of  the  jalapa,  ipecacuanha,  and  sarsaparilla. 

“ Mate,”  the  tea  of  Paraguay,  is  grown  in  Chiquitos,  with  a number  of 
species  of  the  palm  tree.  There  are  ornamental  and  dye  woods,  many 
of  which  are  only  known  to  the  Indian ; few  of  them  have  been  brought 
fairly  to  the  notice  of  the  mechanic. 

Chiquitos  is  within  the  tropic  of  Capricorn.  The  natives  enjoy  the 
fruits  of  the  banana,  the  plantain,  and  oranges,  both  sweet  and  sour. 
The  grape  yields  wine,  and  from  the  wild  apricot  a pure  vinegar  is  made. 
The  much  esteemed  chirimoya  is  found  there  by  the  side  of  the  pome- 
granate and  granadilla,  the  pine-apple  and  water-melon,  the  mandioca, 
the  sweet  and  other  potatoe,  guavas,  pea-nuts,  maize,  and  wheat.  This 
is  the  agricultural  district  of  Bolivia.  Chiquitos  will  rob  Cochabamba 
of  its  name  “Granary,”  and  prove  a finer  garden  than  Yungas.  The 


168 


PARAGUAY. 


hide  and  tallow  trade  of  Buenos  Ayres  will  be  enlarged  by  the  yield  of 
the  pampas  of  Chiquitos.  The  trade  of  La  Plata  must  be  increased 
when  the  productions  of  this  beautiful  land  are  sent  out  upon  its  waters, 
and  floated  down  to  the  sea. 

In  the  Small  town  of  Oliden,  the  Indian  carries  to  market  lettuce, 
onions,  capsicum,  tomatoes,  the  cummin  plant,  wild  marjorem,  parsley, 
mustard,  radishes,  and  the  sweet-scented  seed  of  the  anise,  with  a species 
of  moscatel  grape. 

From  what  I can  learn  from  persons  who  have  navigated  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Paraguay,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  naviga- 
tion is  open  from  Cuyaba,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Matto  Grosso, 
in  Brazil,  down  to  the  ocean.  It  is  said  there  are  no  falls,  and  that  if 
there  should  be  too  little  water  on  the  upper  streams  in  the  dry  season 
of  the  year,  the  produce  of  these  countries  may  be  sent  down  with  ease 
in  the  wet  seasons,  when  the  rivers  rise  several  feet,  and  are  not  very- 
rapid. 


> 


DIAMONDS ANIMALS. 


169 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Diamonds— Animals  of  Chiquitos— Decree  of  1837,  and  act  of  Congress — Senior 
Oliden’s  voyage  on  the  Paraguay  river— Salt — Fall  of  trees— Descending  the 
mountains — Monkey  meat — Coca  plant — Espiritu  Santo — Creole  workmen — 
A night  in  the  wild  woods — Yuracares  hunting — River  San  Mateo — Province  of 
Yuracares. 

It  is  a singular  fact  that  no  diamonds  have  been  found  on  the  Bolivian 
6ide  of  the  Madeira  Plate  or  La  Plata  basin,  while  among  those  streams, 
in  Brazil,  which  flow  into  these  rivers  diamonds  abound.  The  general 
opinion  is  that  these  precious  stones  do  not  exist  in  Bolivia.  The  streams 
which  pay  tribute  to  the  Madeira  and  Paraguay,  from  the  east  in  Bra- 
zil, are  clear  water  rivers.  In  these  transparent  waters  the  diamond  is 
easily  discovered.  The  washing  away  of  the  earth  on  that  side  is  not 
very  great,  even  in  the  rainy  season  of  the  year. 

All  the  streams  on  the  western  or  Bolivian  side  bear  muddy  water ; 
the  wearing  away  on  that  side  is  very  great.  The  filling  up  of  the 
Madeira  Plate  is  done  from  that  side,  just  as  the  Titicaca  lake  is  filling 
up  the  fastest  on  its  western  shore,  60  that  the  diamonds  of  Bolivia,  if 
they  exist,  are  lost  in  the  mud.  We  were  told  by  diamond  hunters  that 
in  rivers  where  the  divers  descend  some  distance,  they  find  the  water 
coldest  on  the  bottom  where  they  pick  up  the  precious  stone,  and  the 
men  are  so  chilled  when  they  returned  to  the  surface,  that  they  require 
to  be  warmed  by  the  side  of  a large  fire,  even  under  the  heat  of  a 
tropical  sun. 

In  the  woods,  and  on  the  pampas  of  Chiquitos,  roams  the  Tapir  or 
Brazil  elk,  the  meat  of  which  resembles  that  of  the  ox,  and  is  considered 
a delicacy  by  the  Indians.  In  the  forests,  the  fields,  and  about  the  rivers, 
birds  abound.  The  wild  boar  pushes  his  way  through  the  grass,  and 
the  American  lion  or  jaguar  leaps  to  fight  the  spotted  tiger  for  the'fatted 
calf.  The  bear  and  wild-cat  prowl  through  the  tangled  creepers,  while 
monkeys  and  parrots  chatter  their  own  peculiar  idioms.  The  fox 
and  armadillo  inhabit  the  hill  sides ; near  the  river  banks  the  turtle  de- 
posits its  eggs.  Large  and  small  snakes  require  no  search. 

From  the  Pacific  coast  to  the  Paraguay  river,  on  the  parallel  of  18° 
south  latitude,  there  are  three  different  climates ; that  of  Oruro,  cold, 
with  an  unproductive  soil,  thinly  populated,  and  the  inhabitants  gen- 
erally poor  ; the  towns  becoming  every  year  more  and  more  depopulated, 
and  the  resources  of  the  country  less  valuable  than  in  former  years. 


170  BOLIVIAN  DECREE  BY  PRESIDENT  SANTA  CRUZ. 


The  ruins  of  the  ancient  Peruvians  there  stand  as  ttuthful  memorials  of 
“the  Past.”  Descending  the  steppe  of  Cochabamba,  the  climate  is 
temperate,  the  soil  more  productive,  the  inhabitants  increasing  in  num- 
bers, and  the  Spanish  race  in  their  strength.  Here  are  found  the  most 
intelligence  and  the  greatest  improvements.  In  the  heart  of  the  nation 
are  living  examples  of  “ the  Present.” 

Proceeding  to  the  bottom  of  the  Madeira  Plate  into  Chiquitos,  we 
find  the  means  of  agriculture,  commerce,  and  manufactures  on  the  very 
top  of  steamboat  navigation,  presenting  to  us  elements  of  the  blessings  of 
a peaceful  “ future.” 

The  nation  of  Bolivia  now  stands  facing  the  Pacific  coast.  The  ap- 
pearance of  one  little  steamboat  on  the  Paraguay  river,  anchored  on 
the  coast  of  Chiquitos,  would  turn  the  whole  “ right  about.” 

On  the  27th  of  December,  1837,  Andres  Santa  Cruz,  President  of  the 
republic  of  Bolivia,  issued  a decree  by  which  foreign  merchandise  should 
enter  the  province  of  Chiquitos  and  Mojos  free  from  all  duty  or  tax 
whatever,  and  that  all  the  productions  of  these  provinces  should  be  ex- 
ported upon  the  principle  of  free  trade. 

On  the  5th  November,  1832,  the  Bolivian  congress,  as  compensation 
for  revolutionary  services,  had  granted  to  an  enterprising  citizen,  Don 
Manuel  Luis  de  Oliden,  a tract  of  land,  twenty-five  leagues  “ iu  all  direc- 
tions from,  a point  on  the  river  Otuguis.” 

Senor  Oliden  sent  me  a short  account  of  an  exploration  made  by  his 
relative,  Senor  Don  Jose  Leon  de  Oliden,  in  the  year  1836.  Mr.  Oliden 
launched  a canoe  in  the  river  Cuyaba,  from  the  town  of  the  same  name, 
in  the  province  of  Matto  Grosso,  in  Brazil.  It  was  during  the  dry  sea- 
son, in  the  month  of  October,  when  the  river  was  shallow.  Descending 
he  found  the  banks  low,  and  the  country  as  level  as  a floor  in  some 
places,  while  here  and  there  the  land  swelled  up  like  a smooth  heave  of 
the  ocean  in  a calm.  During  the  wet  season  of  the  year,  a portion  of 
the  journey  from  Cuyaba  to  the  frontier  of  Paraguay  can  be  made  in 
canoes  over  the  same  road,  travelled  in  dry  weather  on  horseback — the 
whole  country  being  overflowed,  except  on  the  higher  grounds.  On  the 
seventh  day  after  leaving  the  town,  the  canoe  touched  the  waters  of  the 
Paraguay  river,  the  banks  of  which  are  inhabited  by  a nation  of  Indians 
called  “ Guatos,”  who  came  off  in  a friendly  way  to  ofl'er  fish  for  sale, 
and  were  delighted  to  receive  payment  in  a glass  of  rum.  On  the 
Bolivian  shore,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Cuyaba,  the  land  is  hilly,  the 
elevations  range  with  the  stream,  and  also  stretch  back  into  the  Bolivian 
territory.  Among  these  hills  is  a large  lake,  called  Gaiba.  Descending 
the  stream  of  the  Paraguay  river  for  two  days,  brought  the  canoe  oppo- 


* 


oliden’s  expedition. 


171 


site  tne  ancient  town  of  “Alburquerque,”  which  was  abandoned,  the 
people  having  moved  off  to  another  part  of  the  country.  Two  days 
farther  down  was  the  mission  of  the  “Guanas,”  inhabited  by  about  fifty 
families,  who  formed  the  new  settlement  of  Alburquerque.  Near  the 
frontiers  of  Brazil  and  Paraguay,  he  passed  the  fortress  of  Coimbra, 
erected  in  1175. 

Mr.  Oliden  then  entered  the  territory  of  Paraguay,  searching  on  the 
western  shore  of  the  river  for  the  mouth  of  the  Otuguis,  which  he  de- 
sired to  ascend  to  the  town  of  Oliden.  He  suddenly  came  in  sight  of 
the  Forte  de  Borbon,  with  twelve  pieces  of  iron  cannon,  from  which  sev- 
eral shots  were  fired  at  his  canoe.  He  pushed  on  and  landed  at  the 
port,  where  a soldier  met  and  conducted  him  up  the  bank.  He  sent  his 
compliments  to  the  commanding  officer,  and  requested  permission  to 
enter ; the  soldier  returned  with  permission.  His  passport  was  de- 
manded ; in  handing  it  to  the  commander,  he  told  him  he  had  a letter  of 
recommendation  to  his  Excellency  the  Supreme  Dictator  of  the  State 
from  the  Governor  of  the  Brazilian  province  of  Matto  Grosso.  The 
commander  replied,  that  he  could  not  allow  him  to  descend  the  Para- 
guay without  special  permission  to  do  so  from  the  one  man  who  ruled 
the  country.  Mr.  Oliden  requested  that  he  might  continue  down  to 
Assumption,  the  capital  of  Paraguay,  and  present  his  letter  in  person  to 
the  “Dictator.”  The  commander  replied,  that  he  could  do  “ni  uno  ni 

^otro” — neither  one  nor  the  other. 

If*  Mr.  Oliden,  finding  his  requests  fruitless ; that  the  gates  of  Paraguay 
were  shut  in  his  face,  and  that  the  great  highway  cut  through  the 
earth  was  closed  up  by  this  one  man’s  power ; that  the  trade  of  Chi- 
quitos  and  all  of  Bolivia  was  blocked  by  this  passage,  and  that  the 
people  of  his  country  were  cut  off  from  the  path  of  peace  and  commerce, 
took  leave,  and  returned  to  his  canoe  to  await  a passport  giving  him 
permission  to  retrace  his  steps.  The  logs  of  wood  that  floated  by  on  the 
stream  of  the  river  excited  envy  in  the  heart  of  the  enterprising  Oliden ; 
they  were  free  and  he  was  chained ; for  he  was  forced  to  go  where 
they  would  not  go — up  the  stream  again.  Had  he  dared  to  push  his 
canoe  off  and  let  her  float  quietly  down  by  the  sides  of  the  logs  with 
the  current,  there  were  one  hundred  soldiers  ready  to  take  arms  against 
him,  and  insultingly  turn  him  back.  He  remarked  that  the  soldiers  had 
very  expressive  faces,  were  tall,  well-made,  handsome-looking  fellows, 
stout  and  white.  They  spoke  the  “ Guarani”  and  Spanish  languages. 
They  brought  him  “mate”  and  tobacco,  for  which  he  exchanged  a little 
gunpowder  and  a cotton  handkerchief. 

The  soldiers  were  nearly  in  a state  of  starvation.  The  government  had 


172 


CUYABA. 


neglected  to  send  them  provisions  from  Villa  Real,  a town  some  distance 
down  the  river.  There  was  not  a solitary  article  of  food  to  be  gathered 
about  the  fort  No  man  dare  go  more  than  one  hundred  paces  from 
the  walls,  for  fear  of  being  murdered  by  the  savage  tribe  of  “Guaicurus,” 
who  inhabit  the  country  around. 

The  “Capitan  Commandante”  was  rather  ancient,  having  arrived  near 
his  hundredth  year,  and  very  seldom  left  his  bed.  Oliden  said  he  had 
great  confidence  in  his  soldiers,  as  there  was  only  one  musket  outside  of 
the  storeroom,  in  the  hands  of  the  sentinel  at  the  entrance  of  the  forti- 
fication. The  soldiers  were  almost  naked,  and  not  a woman  among  them. 
Several  of  the  sergeants  came  to  the  canoe  to  converse  with  Oliden.  He 
observed  two  old  men  sent  by  the  commander  to  hear  what  was  said, 
news  being  rather  scarce  in  those  regions.  Mr.  Oliden  invited  them  to 
speak  of  the  state  of  their  country,  which  they  declined;  and  when 
Oliden  spoke  of  the  Supreme  Dictator,  they  immediately  took  off  their 
hats,  but  refused  to  talk  politics  or  express  their  opinions  with  regard 
to  the  Paraguay  government.  The  term  for  which  the  soldiers  enlisted 
on  this  station  was  twenty  years. 

A soldier  returned  with  the  passport  granting  Mr.  Oliden  permission  to 
retire — to  return  to  his  own  country.  His  Cuyaba  crew  pulled  the  little 
canoe  up  stream  towards  the  north,  and  slowly  paddled  against  the  cur- 
rent. Oliden’s  patriotic  spirit  saddened  when  he  found  the  expedition 
a failure.  He  was  the  son  of  a man  who  had  fought  for  the  liberty  of. 
Bolivia. 

Mr.  Oliden  reports  the  Paraguay  navigable  for  all  classes  of  vessels 
from  Borbon  to  Alburquerque,  and  mentions  no  falls  either  in  the  Cu- 
yaba or  in  the  Paraguay  up  to  the  Villa  Maria,  which  place  he  reached 
in  twenty-four  days  from  Alburquerque. 

The  road  from  Villa  Maria  to  Cuyaba  is  travelled  by  mules  and 
horses.  For  heavy  articles,  the  route  is  down  the  Paraguay  river  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Cuyaba,  and  up  that  stream  to  the  town  of  the  same  name, 
in  large  canoes  made  of  a single  log,  and  manned  by  the  Indians  of  the 
country.  I am  induced  to  believe  that  this  trip  can  be  made  in  canoes 
in  the  dry  season  ; that  these  rivers  may  be  navigable  for  small  steam- 
boats at  least  six  months  in  the  year,  and  below  the  junction  of  these 
rivers  for  the  whole  year. 

Cuyaba  is  between  15°  and  16°  south  latitude.  The  river  from  that 
town  flows  south,  winding  through  a rich  country,  more  than  one  thou- 
sand miles,  to  the  south  Atlantic  ocean.  Any  road,  constructed  of  wood, 
iron,  or  water,  which  passes  through  that  latitude,  must  exhibit  great 
varieties  of  vegetable  growth.  At  Cuyaba,  the  coffee  and  chocolate 


SALT. 


173 


tree  flourish.  There  is  nothing  to  do  but  plant  and  gather.  At  the 
mouth  of  the  river  La  Plata  neither  of  these  plants  -will  grow.  The 
planter  must  study  his  heights  above  the  sea-level,  or  reckon  his  dis- 
tances from  the  equator,  as  the  sailors  do,  and  plant  those  crops  which 
are  congenial  to  the  climate  he  lives  in ; watching  also  carefully  on 
which  side  of  the  hills  he  sows  barley  or  plants  sugar-cane  ; for  if  he 
gets  them  both  on  the  same  side,  one  will  fail. 

The  country  at  the  mouth  of  these  great  rivers — Paraguay  and  La 
Plata — is  a grazing  country;  their  trade  is  in  hides,  tallow,  and  glue. 
The  drover  has  no  time  to  plant,  sow,  or  gather  grain ; he  would  rather 
exchange  hides  for  flour  manufactured  where  wheat  is  produced.  He 
will  give  beef  for  coffee  and  sugar,  which  he  cannot  grow.  He  wants 
copper  boilers  to  prepare  tallow,  and  the  bark  of  the  up-country  to  tan 
hides.  The  climate  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  for  half  the  year  is  cold ; 
the  “pampero”  winds  blow  across  the  pampas  of  Buenos  Ayres  from 
the  frosty  regions  of  Patagonia,  where  the  hills  are  covered  with  snow, 
and  icebergs  float  along  the  coast.  The  drover,  therefore,  requires  the 
wool  of  the  table-lands,  vicuna  hats,  and  cotton ; he  can  make  his  own 
shoes  and  boots,  but  his  wife  has  no  time  to  spin  wool  and  knit  his 
stockings,  even  if  she  knew  how.  The  merchants  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  do  business  with  ships  that  come  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 

The  cattle  on  the  pampas  of  Buenos  Ayres  and  Brazil  suffer  for  want 
of  salt.  They  who  prepare  the  beef  of  the  southern  provinces  for  the 
markets  of  the  northern  parts  of  South  America,  require  both  salt  and 
saltpetre. 

The  train  of  mules  behind  which  we  travel  are  partly  loaded  with 
cakes  of  salt  from  the  plains  of  Potosi,  which  the  Indian  arriero  says 
was  produced  from  a lake  of  water  formed  by  a mountain  stream. 
When  he  is  questioned  closely,  as  though  it  was  doubtful  about  the  salt 
being  produced  from  a fresh- water  stream,  he  very  knowingly  looks  up 
and  says:  “If  I take  my  hoe  and  lead  the  upper  waters  between  the 
rows  of  my  potatoes  the  lake  will  produce  no  salt.” 

The  people  inhabiting  the  rainy  regions  are  much  troubled  with  a 
swelling  in  the  neck  and  throat,  called  goitre,  which  they  attribute  to 
the  absence  of  salt  in  the  water. 

The  Indians  of  the  desert  of  Atacama,  where  the  rains  are  not  hard 
enough  to  wash  away  the  earth  from  off  the  rock  salt,  lead  small  streams 
directly  over  a vein  of  salt  with  their  hoes,  so  that  their  cattle  may 
fatten  the  quicker  on  a poor  pasture-ground. 

The  mule,  Rose,  has  carried  me  nearly  two  thousand  miles,  and  is  in 
better  order  now  than  after  she  had  travelled  in  a drove  from  Tucuman 


174 


ROAD  FROM  RIO  JANEIRO. 


in  the  Argentine  republic,  in  latitude  21°  south,  through  the  mountainous 
regions  to  Lima.  She  is  the  admiration  of  all  good  judges,  from  the 
arriero  down.  The  reason  she  has  kept  in  good  order,  while  the  mules 
throughout  our  route,  from  Lima  to  Oruro,  look  so  miserable,  is  because 
Jose  constantly  gives  her  salt,  and  I observe  it  is  not  the  general  custom 
of  the  country  to  do  so.  The  good  old  padre  we  met  in  the  montaha  of 
Cuzco  was  an  exception.  He  called  his  cattle  from  the  woods  to  offer  salt. 
The  moment  they  heard  his  voice  the  bulls  came  rushing  out  as  though 
they  were  angry  with  him.  It  was  a beautiful  sight  to  see  the  fierce- 
looking  animals  halt  in  front  of  the  old  gentleman,  robed  in  his  clerical 
garments,  and  gratefully  lick  salt  from  his  hands ; afterwards  rubbing 
their  horns  against  his  legs  by  way  of  thanking  him.  He  did  not  seem 
to  like  this  much.  It  may  be  mentioned  in  confidence,  padres  in  these 
countries  sometimes  go  about  without  trousers. 

I met  an  intelligent  gentleman,  Mr.  Mauricio  Bach,  who  had  spent 
some  years  in  the  province  of  Chiquitos,  and  to  him  I am  indebted  for 
much  information. 

Mr.  Bach  travelled  by  land  from  Rio  Janeiro  to  Bolivia ; he  was  fresh 
from  his  own  country,  and  was  so  much  impressed  with  the  value  of  the 
lands,  productions,  and  climate  of  Chiquitos,  that  he  remained  there  some 
years,  during  which  time  he  had  a fair  chance  of  judging  it.  He  told 
me  that  the  route  through  Brazil  is  inhabited  by  some  savage  Indians ; 
on  the  plains  herds  of  cattle  are  raised,  and  there  was  much  wood.  He 
passed  over  with  a large  party,  who  were  prepared  to  protect  themselves 
from  the  unfriendly  Indians ; but  at  the  present  day  the  mail  from  Rio 
Janeiro  reaches  Cuyaba  every  month. 

The  town  of  Santiago,  in  the  southern  part  of  Chiquitos,  is  situated 
on  a hill  of  the  same  name,  and  has  a population  of  1,380.  The  climate 
is  delightfully  fresh,  healthy,  and  compares  well  with  Chiquisaca,  with 
the  difference  that  the  air  is  not  so  dry  in  Santiago ; it  is  free  from  all 
troublesome  insects  also.  The  country  is  well  watered.  The  streams 
which  flow  into  the  river  Oluquis  contain  gold,  silver,  signs  of  cinnibar, 
and  a suspicion  of  precious  stones.  In  the  forests  are  ornamental  woods 
and  medicinal  plants.  To  the  south  of  Santiago  the  country  is  thickly 
wooded  with  a great  variety  of  palm-trees.  In  the  plains  the  pasture 
affords  a plentiful  supply  of  cattle  and  horses  already  there.  The  soil 
is  so  fertile  that  the  products  of  both  the  torrid  and  temperate  zones 
may  be  produced,  from  chocolate  to  the  wheat  and  sugar  crops.  On 
the  river  Agua  Caliente  Mr.  Oliden,  in  the  year  1836,  established  a 
town,  and  called  it  Florida,  over  the  ruins  of  the  old  settlement  of  San- 
tiago, where  the  Jesuits  first  established  themselves  in  this  wilderness. 


BOUNDARY  LINES. 


175 


The  Indians  built  large  wooden  houses,  cleared  the  land,  and  raised  an 
abundant  crop  of  rice,  superior  to  that  of  Bengal. 

From  the  size  of  the  streams  which  empty  into  the  river  Otuguis, 
their  slow,  steady  current  and  deep  water,  Mr.  Bach  considers  that  a 
steamboat  could  come  up  from  the  ocean  to  these  rice  lands,  but  neither 
he  nor  Mr.  Oliden  could  descend  to  examine,  partly  from  the  fear  their 
Indians  had  of  the  savages,  and  want  of  knowledge  in  the  management 
of  canoes,  which  they  did  not  use  like  the  Brazilian  Indians.  Mr.  Oliden 
gave  up  his  residence,  returned  to  Sucre,  and  finally  to  Buenos  Ayres, 
through  the  Argentine  confederation,  leaving  his  valuable  lands  and 
their  productions  to  the  Indians,  who  live  an  easy  life,  in  plenty  and  in 
an  hospitable  climate. 

There  is  dispute  at  the  present  day  between  the  Brazilians  and  Boli- 
vians with  regard  to  the  boundary  lines  between  their  two  countries. 
Bolivia  claims  to  the  middle  of  the  Paraguay  river ; but  one  of  the 
Brazilian  commanders  observed  to  a Bolivian  that  the  Brazilian  govern- 
ment claimed  as  far  west  as  the  cattle  of  Brazil  roamed,  so  that  it  is 
rather  a difficult  question  to  determine  exactly  where  the  initial  point 
shall  be,  and  then  whereabouts  a line  could  be  drawn. 

By  treaty  between  the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese,  made  more  than  a 
century  ago,  the  southern  initial  point  was  marked  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Jauru  river  where  it  empties  into  the  Paraguay ; thence  in  a straight 
line  to  the  nearest  point  on  the  Guapore  or  Itenez,  should  be  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  territory  of  Bolivia,  which  certainly  makes  the  middle 
both  of  the  Paraguay  and  Guapore,  or  Itenez,  the  division  line  between 
the  two  countries.  The  question  was  not,  however,  of  much  importance 
formerly  either  to  Brazil  or  Spain,  but  now,  as  the  South  Americans  are 
beginning  to  awaken  to  the  importance  of  commerce  and  steamboat 
navigation,  the  Bolivians  raise  the  question  how  far  they  are  entitled  to 
these  natural  communications  and  necessary  outlets.  This  is  a matter 
of  interest  to  Bolivia ; for  if  she  gives  up  a right  to  the  Paraguay  river, 
she  has  nothing  on  her  southern  border  to  fall  back  upon,  except  the 
river  Otuguis,  which  may  not  be  navigable.  After  the  Paraguay  leaves 
Bolivia  and  Brazil,  it  then  flows  over  the  soil  of  Paraguay  and  the 
Argentine  confederation.  Each  claims  the  ownership  of  the  navigable 
waters  at  the  head  of  the  La  Plata,  which  God  made  for  all. 

We  began  to  descend  the  great  ridge  of  mountains  to  the  northeast, 
with  a hope  that  we  may  not  be  obliged  to  retrace  our  steps.  The 
moment  we  touched  the  brow  of  the  mountain,  a thick  fog-bank  stood 
before  us,  thrown  up  like  a great  fortification.  The  wall  was  distinctly 
marked  along  the  ridge,  while  on  the  southwest  side  the  sun  shone 


176 


DESCENDING  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


brightly.  The  mules,  one  by  one,  entered  the  thick  mass  of  steam  vapor 
■with  great  hesitation.  It  was  with  difficulty  the  arrieros  could  push 
them  in,  so  much  did  they  dislike  to  descend.  As  they  had  travelled 
the  road  before,  they  turned  and  ran  back  into  the  light,  but  the  men 
finally  succeeded  in  getting  them  all  in. 

In  the  sunlight  behind  us,  there  was  a short  growth  of  short  grass, 
with  a portion  of  the  soil  burnt  into  a hard  and  scaly  crust,  like  the  out- 
side of  a steam-boiler.  As  soon  as  we  had  passed  under  the  fog,  the 
earth  was  found  covered  with  a green  sod ; flowers  bloomed  by  our 
path,  and  the  foliage  of  the  bushes  covered  the  sides  of  the  ravines, 
while  the  forest  trees  lined  the  bottom.  The  green  surface  looked  like 
the  waters  of  the  sea  as  they  flow  up  on  the  land,  pushing  towards  the 
top  of  themountain  ravine  in  some  places,  while  in  others,  where  a bluff 
stood  out,  the  foilage  was  forced  back,  as  if  the  elevation  was  too  high 
for  the  green  wave  to  cover  it. 

Under  this  thick  cloud  the  Indian  finds  fire-wood  ; here  he  burns  char- 
coal, which  is  used  by  the  silversmiths,  the  blacksmiths,  and  the  city 
cooks.  In  the  valley  he  gathers  ornamental  woods  for  the  cabinet-maker. 
After  he  has  cut  down  trees  and  sold  them,  he  finds  that  his  corn  crop 
will  yield  him  a plentiful  supply  without  the  trouble  of  leading  water 
through  the  fields  with  his  hoe,  for  the  rains  come  down  on  the  land  so 
plentifully  that  he  has  nothing  to  do  but  to  admire  what  they  do  for 
him ; while  his  neighbor,  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountain,  eats  only 
by  the  sweat  of  his  brow. 

For  his  comfort,  the  Indian  must  build  himself  a house  for  protection 
against  the  rains.  He  cuts  four  forked  poles,  and  stands  them  up  as 
supports  to  a thatched  roof,  slings  his  cotton  hamac  from  post  to 
post,  and  there  enjoys  his  rest,  swinging  in  a cool,  pleasant  climate, 
while  he  looks  out  upon  the  growing  maize,  and  listens  to  the  dashing 
waters  of  the  mountain  streams. 

We  halted  and  asked  permission  to  encamp  on  the  third  night  from 
Cochabamba,  and  to  pitch  our  tent  among  an  orchard  of  peach  trees. 
We  cooked  supper  by  the  Indian’s  fire,  roasted  a wild  goose,  shot  during 
the  day  in  a small  lake,  while  Jose  made  tea  and  traded  with  the 
Indian  for  fodder. 

May  14, 1852. — At  5 p.  m.,  thermometer,  58°;  wet  bulb,  57°;  cloudy 
and  calm.  This  observation  is  made  in  the  peach  orchard,  not  far 
below  the  gorge  through  which  we  passed.  After  spending  an  uncom- 
fortable night  in  our  tent,  which  we  find  rather  close  in  this  dense 
atmosphere,  we  loaded  up  and  pushed  down  through  the  forest-trees 
over  a most  dangerous  road.  In  some  places  the  mules  jump  down 


DESCENDING  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


177 


frightful  steps,  where  trees  stand  so  close  together  that  the  baggage 
catches  on  both  sides.  I have  constant  fear  that  the  instruments  will 
be  ruined,  or  that  some  of  the  animals  will  break  their  necks  or  our 
own.  The  water  in  the  mountain  streams  being  very  low,  we  cross 
some  of  them  by  wading.  The  rapid  ones  we  pass  on  miserable  bridges 
made  of  long  poles  thrown  over,  and  then  covered  with  the  branches  of 
trees.  Their  wide  dry  beds  indicate  great  floods  in  the  rainy  season. 
The  arriero  mentioned  having  lost  half  his  train,  with  all  the  baggage, 
in  an  attempt  to  cross  during  the  wet  season. 

Our  route  from  Tarma  to  Oruro  was  south.  We  travelled  ahead  of 
the  sun.  In  December,  when  we  arrived  in  Cochabamba,  the  sun  had 
just  passed  us.  As  soon  as  he  did  so,  the  rains  descended  heavily 
on  this  side  of  the  ridge ; it  was  impossible  to  proceed.  The  roads 
were  flooded,  the  ravines  impassable,  and  the  arrieros  put  off  their 
journey  until  the  dry  season  had  commenced.  After  the  sun  passed 
the  zenith  of  Cochabamba,  and  had  fairly  moved  the  rain-belt  after 
him  towards  the  north,  then  we  came  out  from  under  shelter,  and  are 
now  walking  behind  the  rain-belt  in  diy  weather,  while  the  inhabitants 
are  actively  employed  in  tending  their  crops. 

After  travelling  all  day  through  the  woods,  we  encamped  near  a 
house  owned  by  a white  man,  with  a wife  and  large  family  of  children. 
The  place  was  called  Llactahuasi.  On  the  road  we  shot  a wild  turkey, 
which  was  fortunate,  for  the  woman  declined  selling  us  the  only  old 
hen  she  had,  as  her  brood  of  little  chickens  were  too  young  to  do  with- 
out parental  attention.  The  only  other  living  things  about  the  house, 
besides  the  children,  were  two  dogs.  The  question  first  asked  by  our 
people  on  arriving  at  a house  is  for  provisions,  so  as  to  forestall  the  same 
question  from  the  poor  settlers,  who  are  found  along  the  road  at  uncer- 
tain distances.  The  country  may  be  said  otherwise  to  be  uninhabited 
even  by  wild  Indians. 

Maij  15. — At  4 p.  m.,  thermometer,  73°;  wet  bulb,  7l°;  clear  and 
calm.  An  increase  of  15°  of  heat  since  this  time  yesterday.  Tempera- 
ture of  a stream,  56°  Fahrenheit.  As  the  mountains  dwindle  into  hills, 
the  trees  increase  in  size  and  the  undergrowth  thickens.  Thousands  of 
creepers  are  tangled  in  the  most  confused  manner.  The  branches  of 
the  woods  are  loaded  with  a thick  growth  of  moss,  and  immense  masses 
are  heaped  up  on  the  tops  of  the  trees.  The  creepers  run  up  the  trunk, 
coated  with  moss  on  the  south  side,  crawl  out  on  the  branches,  and 
thence  grow  down  to  the  ground  from  the  end,  on  which  another 
creeper  ascends,  until  the  branch  becomes  so  loaded  that  it  breaks  down 
with  the  weight.  The  tops  of  the  trees  grow  up,  and  then  are  pulled 
12 


178 


FALL  OF  TREES. 


down  by  these  huge  vines,  which  hang  like  hempen  cables.  While  the 
climate  and  soil  encourage  the  forest  trees,  the  creeping  parasites  seem 
determined  to  drag  them  downward.  There  is  a constant  cracking 
noise  of  snapping  branches,  accompanied  by  a thundering  roar,  when 
large  trunks  are  brought  down.  Great  logs  cross  our  track,  and  we 
dare  not  look  aloft,  for  fear  of  seeing  increased  danger.  A creeper  runs 
up  the  trunk  of  a large  tree,  and  out  on  a limb,  descends  to  another 
large  tree,  and  turns  itself  round  the  butt  as  if  done  by  hand ; then  it 
wound  its  way  up  to  perform  the  same  effort  again,  while  the  branches 
or  roots  were  all  pulling  like  so  many  braces,  until  the  limb  was  broken 
from  the  tree.  As  it  drops  to  the  ground,  there  is  a thick  moss  ready 
to  grasp  it,  and  the  log  is  soon  covered  out  of  sight  and  rote. 

Some  of  the  larger  trees  have  been  torn  up  by  the  roots,  and  have 
fallen  to  the  eastward,  as  if  done  by  a sudden  gust  of  wind  rebounding 
from  the  side  of  the  mountain.  All  the  easterly  winds  that  strike  the 
broad  side  of  the  Andes  do  not  glide  upwards,  but  the  current  is  some- 
times divided.  The  lower  half  turns  under,  sweeping  down  over  the 
forests  with  such  force  back  towards  the  east  as  to  break  down  the 
trees  and  place  them  in  the  position  referred  to.  The  winds  cannot 
rebound  horizontally,  for  they  would  meet  each  other  and  produce  a 
calm.  Their  only  means  of  escape  is  either  close  down  on  the  surface 
of  the  warm  earth,  or  up  into  the  more  rarified  regions.  When  the 
heavy  gales,  which  sometimes  blow  in  the  rainy  season  from  the  east- 
ward, strike  these  lofty  Andes  with  a force  that  uproots  the  forest  trees, 
destroys  the  crops,  and  sets  the  ocean  in  a rage,  they  accumulate  here, 
and  must  burst  their  way  out.  They  would  split  the  mariner’s  heavy 
eanvass  sails  and  blow  through;  but  here  the  gigantic  strength  of  the 
mountains  resists  them  with  a composure  that  makes  the  forest  the  suf- 
ferer. These  heights  of  the  eastern  side  of  the  Andes  are  among  the 
most  terrific  portions  of  the  earth.  They  seem  to  correspond  to  the 
rocky  shores  of  the  ocean,  where  the  waves  beat  heavily  against  their 
banks.  The  trees,  bushes,  vines,  creepers,  and  mosses  are  heaped  up 
just  here,  like  we  find  sea-weed  hanging  on  the  rocks  of  the  sea-coast. 
The  fisherman  paddles  his  canoe  into  the  calm  ocean  beyond  the  troubled 
breakers  that  strike  against  the  land.  Here  we  find  no  inhabitants. 
There  never  were  any.  We  discover  no  ruins  or  marks  of  bygone  ages. 
These  primitive  forests  are  not  inhabited  by  the  savage  of  the  present 
day.  Here  are  no  birds  among  the  trees,  except  the  wild  turkey ; he 
walks  through  the  bushes  and  feeds  on  berries.  There  are  very  few  of 
this  family,  much  to  our  regret.  Few  wild  animals  roam  about. 

While  descending  the  mountains  to  the  east  of  Cuzco,  we  found  what 


CORNELIO  CESPEDES. 


179 


we  see  here,  numbers  of  land  shells.  This,  then,  may  be  called  the  snail 
district.  They  are  certainly  in  the  majority,  and  the  only  thing  with 
animal  life,  which  seems  to  flourish  in  these  inhospitable  places.  If  our 
poor  mules  were  not  so  very  sure-footed,  we  would  never  be  able  to  de- 
scend by  this  road,  which  is  so  precipitous  in  some  places  that  horses 
could  not  travel  and  carry  a man.  The  short-legged  donkey  would  be 
lost  in  the  deep  mud  holes,  which  the  mules  jump  into  and  then  leap 
out.  At  night  they  are  turned  on  the  path  to  devour  leaves  from  the 
bushes,  or  seek  some  palatable  herb  among  the  trees  ; there  is  no  shelter 
nor  pasture  for  them.  Our  party  encamped  in  the  wilderness  as  much 
exhausted  as  the  animals.  The  climate  is  damp  and  sultry,  and  when 
we  lie  down  to  rest  the  season  is  so  gloomy,  it  seems  like  a long  and 
tedious  trance.  Our  old  arriero  proves  to  be  a polite  and  amusiug 
character.  He  is  a creole ; makes  a living  by  travelling  down  this  road 
with  salt  and  returns  with  chocolate.  Every  now  and  then,  after  we 
have  passed  a difficult  part,  he  turns  with  most  downcast  expression  and 
says,  “Ah  ! Patron ! your  boxes  are  very  heavy  for  my  mules.”  We  tell 
him  the  roads  are  bad  in  his  country.  “They  are  much  better  than 
they  used  to  be.”  He  said  when  he  travelled  on  the  table  lands,  we 
became  very  tired  of  riding  all  day,  but  here  we  went  so  slow  that  he 
did  not  feel  fatigued,  particularly  on  his  way  up,  when  his  mules  were 
poor  and  could  scarcely  climb  back.  He  told  us  that  it  required  at  least 
six  weeks  rest  for  the  mules  in  Cochabamba,  keeping  them  well  fed  on 
lucerne  all  the  time,  before  they  were  fleshy  enough  to  load  again  for 
another  trip  down.  His  full  name  is  Cornelio  Cespedes;  he  had  been 
engaged  travelling  up  and  down  the  Andes  for  a number  of  years,  and 
appears  to  be  an  honest,  worthy  man.  Cornelio  begs  me  to  sell  him 
Rose.  I object,  because  she  would  have  to  travel  this  dreadful  road. 

Descending  some  distance,  the  first  sign  of  active  animal  life  was  a 
perfect  swarm  of  ring-tail  monkeys.  They  travel  along  among  the  tops 
of  the  trees  at  a rapid  rate,  first  swinging  to  a limb  by  the  feet,  and  then 
by  their  long  tails.  A little  one,  who  looks  in  the  face  like  a young 
negro,  sometimes  gets  frightened  and  calls  for  his  mother,  who  promptly 
runs  to  his  assistance,  when  the  cunning  rascal  jumps  on  her  back,  holds 
on  to  her  hind  leg  with  his  tail,  and  gallops  her  off  to  the  next  tree. 
The  noise  they  make  deafens  us,  particularly  after  a shot  is  fired.  They 
are  not  easy  to  kill.  The  men  are  very  fond  of  the  meat,  probably 
because  there  is  not  much  other  to  be  had  on  the  road. 

Our  beds  became  wet  by  the  rains  during  the  night;  this  encourages 
the  fleas  in  our  blankete  to  annoy  us,  and  although  we  were  tired 


J80 


MONKEY  MEAT. 


enough  to  sleep,  we  were  not  able  to  do  so.  We  mount  very  much 
exhausted,  while  our  animals  stagger  with  the  weight. 

The  arrieros  pile  the  baggage  up  in  a heap  at  night,  and  cover  it  with 
the  pack-saddles.  Our  boxes  were  well  covered  with  tarpaulins  before 
we  left  Cochabamba,  and  I had  them  lined  and  soldered  inside  with  tin, 
to  be  water-tight.  We  find  this  a good  plan.  No  doubt  we  should 
have  been  wanting  in  provisions  had  our  boxes  leaked,  for  the  rain  ran 
off  the  sides  of  the  hill,  flowing  round  the  baggage.  Travellers  supply 
themselves  with  biscuits  baked  hard,  without  salt,  as  it  melts  in  this 
moist  climate  and  the  bread  spoils.  We  carried  cheese,  tea,  sugar,  rice, 
cakes  of  chocolate,  and  sardines,  with  two  biscuits  a day,  and  what  we 
could  gather  with  our  gun  iu  geese,  turkeys,  and  monkeys.  We  worked 
along  much  better  than  our  poor  animals.  The  article  we  found  most 
valuable  was  rice.  A wild  turkey,  cut  up  and  well  boiled  with  rice, 
seasoned  with  a small  quantity  of  aje,  a lump  of  Potosi  salt  scraped  with 
it,  was  most  refreshing  after  a hard  day’s  travel.  The  greatest  favor  to 
a traveller  met  on  the  road  in  the  forest,  is  to  present  him  with  a biscuit. 
The  patron  who  shares  his  bread  with  the  men  will  always  get  through. 
The  arrieros  generally  carry  a bag  of  roasted  or  parched  corn.  It  is 
amusing  to  see  them  luxurating  on  the  hind  leg  of  a ring-tailed  monkey, 
taken  alternately  with  a grain  of  parched  corn.  They  say  the  tail  of  the 
monkey  is  the  most  delicate  part  when  the  hair  is  properly  singed.  If 
our  game  gave  out,  and  it  became  cold  monkey  or  nothing,  we  opened 
our  box  of  cheese.  Monkey  meat  keeps  longer  than  any  other  in  this 
climate  ; carried  on  the  side  of  the  baggage,  it  becomes  tender  during 
the  day  by  beating  against  the  trees  as  the  train  passes  along.  Of  the 
skins  the  arrieros  make  pouches,  in  which  they  carry  coca  beans  and 
parched  corn,  suspended  by  the  tail  to  a strap  round  the  waist,  with  the 
legs  tied  one  to  another,  hair  side  out.  This  is  thought  ornamental,  and 
a greater  protection  from  wet  weather  than  the  best  tanned  leather. 
The  arrieros  are  generally  cheerful  fellows,  and  are  always  anxious  to 
point  out  game,  generally  looking  for  turkeys,  knowing  that  the  four-leg 
kind  will  fall  to  them  alone. 

There  is  great  trouble  in  getting  a fire ; the  dead  wood  is  so  much 
soaked  by  rains  that  Jose  has  to  inflate  his  cheeks  till  the  tears  run  out 
of  his  eyes.  Every  man  carries  a flint  and  steel  with  him.  Arrieros 
sleep  soundly  with  their  heads  in  the  rain  and  feet  in  the  ashes. 

On  the  evening  of  the  Tth  May,  we  reached  the  Espiritu  Santo;  follow- 
ing it  for  some  distance  we  came  to  a lonely  house,  situated  in  a beauti- 
ful and  romantic  spot.  Standing  at  the  door,  looking  up  the  ravine, 
through  which  a stream  dashes,  the  great  Andes  appear  in  might,  wrap- 


ESPIRITU  SANTO. 


181 


ped  in  their  misty  robes.  The  freshness  of  the  foliage  and  thickness  of 
the  leaves  present  different  shaped  clusters,  so  heavy  and  massive  that 
there  seemed  to  be  a difficulty  on  the  soil  for  the  crowds  of  trees  and 
little  saplings  to  find  room  to  grow.  At  the  foot  of  the  steep  hill  on 
which  the  Indian’s  hut  stood,  a small  piece  of  flat  land,  by  the  side  of  the 
stream,  was  thickly  planted  with  sugar  canes.  We  gathered  some 
tobacco  seed  which  was  ripening  on  stalks  nine  feet  high.  The  Indian 
was  a Quichua ; his  only  comfort  appeared  to  be  in  chewing  coca,  and 
his  only  companions  three  tamed  turkey  hens.  His  house  was  well 
built,  the  sides  being  open  work,  and  roof  well  thatched  with  wild  palm 
leaf.  A stick  of  wood  with  notches  leaned  in  one  corner  towards  the 
loft.  This  was  his  stairway.  As  we  sling  our  hamacs  in  the  lower  story, 
the  old  man  went  up  to  bed.  I told  Jose  to  inquire  why  he  slept  up 
there,  and  we  found  he  was  in  the  habit  of  doing  so  not  to  be  at  home 
to  the  tigers,  who  troubled  him  by  repeated  and  unwelcome  visits  during 
the  night.  He  had  no  objection  to  their  calling  in  the  day  time,  as  then 
he  was  ready  to  trade  saltpetre  and  lead  for  a tiger’s  skin,  which  became 
valuable  at  the  Pacific  coast. 

Looking  down  the  ravine  we  saw  the  Espiritu  Santo  descending  with 
the  land,  thickly  coated  in  green.  The  forest  trees  are  not  so  large  as 
we  expected  them ; none  of  them  are  equal  to  the  oaks  of  North  Amer- 
ica. The  old  Indian  pointed  out  the  cinchona  leaf  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  ravine,  but  said  there  were  few  trees  in  his  neighborhood,  that  the 
bark  gatherers  entered  the  woods  farther  towards  the  northwest  of  us. 

The  descent  here  is  not  near  so  precipitous  as  to  the  east  of  Cuzco, 
though  the  difference  in  height  between  it  and  the  last  ridges  we 
crossed  was  very  small.  The  road  near  the  Espiritu  Saeto  is  over  ridges 
of  hills  which  run  parallel  wfith  the  range  of  mountains,  decreasing  as 
we  descend.  We  rise  up  a short  distance,  and  then  descend  on  the  long 
side,  like  a boat  forcing  its  way  seaward  through  the  rollers  of  the  coast, 
which,  as  they  approach  the  land,  become  mere  breakers.  We  passed  a 
comfortable  night  in  the  hut,  which  protected  us  from  heavy  rains  ac- 
companied with  lightning. 

Farther  down,  at  a settlement  called  Espiritu  Santo,  about  one  hun- 
dred creoles  were  cultivating  land  on  both  sides  of  a ravine,  which 
widens  as  we  descend.  They  were  clearing  coca  patches  of  weeds; 
looked  ghastly,  thin,  sallow,  and  distressed.  The  climate  did  not  agree 
with  them.  I never  saw  so  miserably  weak,  broken  down  a caste  of 
men.  The  women  looked  more  healthy,  but  there  wrere  few  of  them. 

The  coca  plants  were  small  and  unthrifty ; the  moss  gathered  about 
their  trunks  gave  them  the  appearance  of  trees  placed  in  uncongenial 


r 


182 


COCA  PLANT. 


climate  and  soil.  The  patches  looked  beautiful  on  the  distant  sides  of 
the  hills ; rows  were  planted  on  steps  formed  by  little  stone  walls  one  foot 
high,  one  above  the  other,  with  a platform  to  plant  the  trees  upon  of  a 
foot  and  a half  in  width.  The  place  was  too  wet  and  cool,  and  the  soil 
not  sandy  enough.  The  Indians  say  the  Yungas  coca  is  better  than 
this  of  Yuracares,  and  that  of  Cuzco  a superior  quality  to  either.  The 
coca  tree  of  Cuzco  is  larger;  these  grow  on  an  average  four  feet  in 
height  and  produce  fewer  leaves.  Near  Cuzco  the  trees  are  planted  in 
a flat  country,  where  the  climate  is  warmer,  more  regular  and  not  so 
damp.  There  the  mats  on  which  the  leaves  are  dried  are  spread  on  dry 
ground  flats.  Here  a pavement  built  of  stone  is  walled  in  with  an 
opening  on  two  sides,  so  that  when  it  rains  the  water  may  pass  through, 
and  wash  off  the  pavements  placed  below  the  surface  of  the  ground  for 
the  purpose  of  protecting  them  from  sudden  gusts  of  wind  that  come 
down  and  sweep  away  the  whole  crop,  the  more  easily  after  the  leaves 
are  dried.  In  the  lowlands  of  Cuzco  the  winds  are  not  so  violent,  and 
the  coca  grower  may  tell  when  a storm  is  approaching  and  carry  his 
leaves  under  shelter.  The  air  is  dry  enough  there  even  when  it  rains 
not  to  injure  the  leaf,  while  here  the  atmosphere  is  so  damp  that  the 
coca  curer  must  carefully  secure  his  leaves  against  it,  or  they  lose  their 
flavor,  diminishing  their  market  value.  The  Yuracares  coca  planter  is 
too  high  up  on  the  side  of  the  Andes.  If  he  would  condescend  a little, 
he  probably  could  find  as  congenial  a climate  and  soil  as  those  in  the 
lowlands  of  Cuzco.  In  Espiritu  Santo  there  are  several  patches  which 
have  run  out ; they  are  constantly  planting  new  crops,  which  show  that 
the  tree  is  short  lived. 

The  coca  is  a^great  favorite  of  the  Quichua  Indian ; he  prizes  it  as  the 
Chinaman  does  his  opium.  While  the  one  puts  to  sleep,  the  other  keeps 
awake.  The  Indian  brain  being  excited  by  coca,  he  travels  a long  dis- 
tance without  feeling  fatigue,  •while  he  has  plenty  of  coca,  he  cares  little 
for  food.  Therefore,  after  a journey  he  is  worn  out.  In  the  city  of 
Cuzco,  w'here  the  Indians  masticate  the  best  quality  of  coca,  they  use  it 
to  excess.  Their  physical  condition,  compared  with  those  who  live  far 
off  from  the  coca  market,  in  a climate  equally  inhospitable,  is  thin, 
weak,  and  sickly;  less  cheerful,  and  not  so  good  looking.  The  chewers 
also  use  more  brandy  and  less  tamborine  and  fiddle ; seldom  dance  or 
sing.  Their  expression  of  face  is  doleful,  made  hideous  by  green  streaks 
of  juice  streaming  from  each  corner  of  the  mouth. 

The  ooca  leaf  has  a very  bitter  taste  to  those  unaccustomed  to  it- 
The  Indians  chew  it  with  a little  slacked  lime,  which  they  think  eases 
its  way  down,  and  makes  it  sweeter. 


CREOLE  WORKMEN. 


183 


The  Incas  employed  the  coca  leaf,  and  it  is  said  introduced  it  into  their 
church  worship.  Great  attention  was  paid  to  its  cultivation.  They 
were  careful  in  the  choice  of  land,  descending  to  the  eastward  of  Cuzco, 
until  they  found  the  proper  soil  and  climate. 

The  Indians  have  a curious  custom  with  regard  to  the  coca.  After 
the  ball  in  the  mouth  has  lost  all  its  flavor,  they  throw  it  against  a rock. 
Along  the  narrow  roads  on  the  Andes,  where  the  rocks  stand  out  in  the 
way,  we  have  noticed  their  faces  besmeared  with  the  coca  leaf  after  it 
had  undergone  a thorough  mastication. 

The  men  tell  me  they  gather  a crop  of  coca  leaves  every  three  months  ; 
sometimes  the  season  fluctuates.  As  soon  as  the  trees  are  stripped  of 
their  leaves,  fresh  ones  sprout  out  again  during  the  lifetime  of  the  bush, 
which  in  the  montaha  of  Cuzco  outlives  a man. 

Among  the  workmen  was  a negro,  and  I never  beheld  a more  cheerful 
face  in  any  of  his  race.  "When  he  saw  us,  he  grinned  till  it  attracted 
our  attention  particularly  to  him.  He  was  fat  and  hearty ; his  black 
skin  had  a clear,  ebony  color,  while  his  teeth  were  so  white  and  lips  so 
red,  it  was  plain  to  see  he  had  no  partiality  for  coca.  He  was  excessively 
polite  in  getting  us  seeds  from  the  plant,  fetching  us  water  and  oranges. 
We  are  among  fruits  and  flowers  now — a congenial  climate  for  the  black 
man.  His  wool  was  curled  in  most  glossy  locks  and  his  heels  projecting. 
He  was  dressed  in  a white  jacket  and  trousers,  straw  hat,  but  without 
a shirt. 

The  creoles  chewed  coca  and  smoked  tobacco.  The  negro  luxuriated 
upon  oranges  and  bananas,  which  he  guards  from  the  ring-tailed 
monkeys,  who  fancy  the  same  food.  This  was  his  only  annoyance, 
for  he  naturally  sides  with  the  white  man. 

Of  the  three  colors  of  men,  the  cold  country  suits  the  red,  the  hot 
the  black,  and  the  temperate  the  white.  On  the  steppes  of  Cochabamba 
the  white  man  flourishes  best.  In  the  snowy  regions  the  Indians  seem 
to  be  less  sensitive  to  cold ; while  in  the  heat  of  the  tropical  sun  the 
black  shows  his  teeth  to  most  advantage. 

Crossing  the  Espiritu  Santo,  we  encamped  on  the  chocolate  planta- 
tion, Minas  Mayo,  near  the  bank  of  a stream  of  the  same  name.  We 
had  to  wade ; the  current  was  not  very  rapid,  but  with  some  danger  of 
losing  our  baggage,  for  the  bottom  was  filled  with  round  slippery  stones, 
whith  made  it  difficult  for  the  mules  to  keep  their  feet. 

The  family  on  this  plantation  were  gathering  coffee  in  bags  slung  by 
a strap  round  the  neck,  like  the  Brazilians  gather  it.  The  coffee-trees 
here  are  about  the  same  size  as  those  of  Rio  Janeiro,  and  loaded  down 
with  grains.  There  were  only  a few  trees ; the  amount  raised  is  suffi- 


184 


YURACARES  INDIAN. 


cient  for  the  consumption  of  the  people  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
chocolate-trees  are  larger  than  those  of  Northern  Brazil,  and  seem  to  be 
well  supplied  with  a plentiful  crop  of  green  nuts.  Plantain  and  papaya 
trees  stand  thick  about  a wooden  house  thatched  with  palm  leaves. 
While  I was  sketching,  Don  Cornelio  looked  on,  with  a sugar-cane  stalk 
in  one  hand  and  a long  knife  in  the  other.  He  cut  off  large  mouthfuls 
which  swelled  out  his  cheek.  A Y uracares  Indian  stood  by  who  had 
overtaken  us  on  his  return  from  Cochabamba.  The  frock  he  wore  was 
the  uniform  established  among  the  Indians  by  the  Jesuits.  It  is  of 
white  cotton  cloth,  after  the  fashion  of  a dress  made  by  the  savages 
from  the  bark  of  certain  trees.  When  this  Indian  and  his  companion 
first  arrived  on  the  top  of  the  mountains,  they  suffered  much  from  cold. 
They  doubled  their  “camisas,”  but  the  winds  whistled  about  their  legs 
so  freshly  they  say  they  were  taken  sick.  When  they  had  delivered 
their  despatches  to  the  Bishop  of  Cochabamba,  from  a padre  in  their 
country,  they  hid  away  in  the  warmest  ravine  they  could  find,  and  re- 
mained there  several  days  waiting  clerical  orders.  As  soon  as  they  re- 
ceived permission  to  return,  they  scampered  back  to  warm  weather  as 
fast  as  they  could.  They  left  Cochabamba  after  us.  We  have  not 
delayed  a day,  so  that  they  have  travelled  faster  than  our  mules.  On 
these  terrible  roads  the  Indian  moves  up  or  down  at  a steady  pace, 
while  the  mule  stops  to  blow  and  to  rest. 

The  poor  Indians  had  brought  nothing  to  eat  on  the  road,  and  the 
first  thing  they  seized  here  was  the  sugar-cane.  We  gave  them  some 
provisions.  They  cannot  bear  the  coca,  and  laugh  when  they  see  the 
Quichuas  poking  green  leaves  into  their  mouths.  They  were  examining 
their  bows  and  arrows  to  be  ready  for  game  and  for  fish,  which  they 
said  were  plenty  farther  down  the  country.  We  gave  them  fish-hooks 
they  were  delighted  to  get,  and  promised  if  we  overtook  them  in  the 
morning,  they  would  shoot  us  a turkey  or  some  fish.  After  they  slept 
for  a few  hours,  Cornelio  says  they  rose  up  and  travelled  at  midnight, 
single  file,  by  the  path  we  afterwards  followed  by  the  light  of  day. 

Their  forms  are  straight  and  well  made,  but  they  were  not  strong  men. 
The  expression  of  face  was  feminine.  They  looked  bleached  by  the  side 
of  a Quichua  Indian,  who  was  much  stouter  built.  Their  hair  is 
worn  long,  like  the  Quichua  and  Aymaras,  wearing  it  in  a long  trail 
behind.  The  Yuracares  had  rather  a pleasant  face,  but  not  a very 
bright  eye.  Besides  his  knife,  he  carried  a cane  fife,  showing  a taste 
for  music ; and  from  the  variety  in  a bark  camisa,  he  certainly  is  fond 
of  fancy  colors,  which  he  procures  from  the  dye-woods  of  the  province. 
His  bows  and  arrows  were  the  same  as  the  Indians  use  in  California  ; 


YURAOAREb  PLANTATION 


' 


CULTIVATION  OF  COCA. 


185 


both  long.  Those  designed  to  shoot  fish  were  beautifully  made  and 
fitted  ; the  points  or  heads  of  hard  black  wood ; the  arrow  a reed,  with 
colored  feathers. 

Jose  is  again  at  a loss  to  understand  the  Indian  language,  so  we  make 
use  of  Cornelio,  who  is  an  old  friend  among  these  people,  and  seems  to 
be  popular.  They  see  him  often  on  the  road  which  passes  through  their 
hunting  grounds.  The  cap  the  Indian  wears  upon  his  head,  Cornelio 
says,  was  purchased  in  Cochabamba,  Indian  like,  instead  of  buying 
corn  for  the  road. 

Maize  and  yuca  serve  the  men  here  as  bread.  Coffee,  chocolate,  and 
sugar  are  their  groceries ; beans  and  pepper  their  vegetables ; oranges, 
papayas,  plantains,  and  bananas,  their  fruits.  The  creole  is  constantly 
pulling  at  the  tobacco-leaf  to  roll  up  in  a corn-husk  as  a cigar.  He  im- 
ports rice,  and  flour  when  he  can  get  it ; gunpowder,  shot,  fish-hooks 
and  lines. 

This  coca  business  is  superintended  by  a person  who  employs  men 
from  the  valley  of  Cochabamba,  willing  to  seek  their  fortunes  in  the 
wilderness  at  the  rate  of  twenty-five  cents  a day.  One  of  the  workmen 
was  kind  enough  to  swing  my  hamac  under  a shed ; he  and  a compan- 
ion slept  in  a bed  close  by.  The  contents  of  a pot  were  puffing  up  ; the 
man  ran  through  the  dark  to  its  relief;  taking  the  pot  from  off  two  stones, 
he  politely  invited  me  to  join  them  at  supper.  Our  light  was  from  the 
burning  chunks  of  wood,  and  a hifcgry  dog  kept  watch  around  us,  and 
barked  when  he  heard  a noise  in  the  woods.  The  employer  of  this 
hospitable  man  paid  him  fifteen  dollars  per  annum ; clothed  him  in 
coarse  cotton,  lodged  him  under  a shed,  and  we  found  his  supper  of  rice 
very  good.  Our  host  was  a mestizo,  from  the  town  of  Sacaba,  in  the 
valley  of  Cochabamba.  He  expressed  great  desire  to  return  home. 
“ The  climate  is  more  agreeable,”  he  said  ; “ there  is  less  sickness,  and 
there  we  have  nothing  to  do.  The  life  is  a gay  one ; we  play  upon  the 
guitar,  dance,  and  sing  with  the  ^girls,  and  live  an  easy  life.  The  girls 
won’t  come  down  here  for  fear  of  los  animales  (wild  beasts).  We  get 
no  mutton  for  our  chupe.  Ah,  Senor ! above  all,  we  never  see  a cup  of 
chicha ; but  with  hoe  in  hand,  we  go  to  the  coca  patch  at  sunrise  in 
the  morning,  and  there  remain  during  the  day,  only  leaving  it  in  case  of 
a heavy  rain.” 

We  tried  to  convince  this  honest  laborer  he  was  doing  a better  work 
for  his  children  and  his  country  by  cultivating  coffee,  chocolate,  and 
sugar,  than  by  dancing,  music,  and  drinking  chicha.  He  laughingly 
shook  his  head,  and  said,  “ the  children  must  take  care  of  themselves  as 
I have  done ; and  as  to  the  country,  we  are  yet  without  law  in  Espiritu 


186 


RIO  PARACTI. 


Santo,  except  the  law  of  our  Catholic  church,  which  exacts  of  us  an 
annual  contribution,  which  has  to  be  deducted  from  fifteen  dollars  a 
year.” 

The  Espiritu  Santo  is  joined  by  a smaller  stream,  Minas  Mayo.  The 
two  form  the  river  Paracti,  which  being  the  main  branch  of  several 
tributaries  on  the  opposite  side,  presents  quite  a formidable  stream  of 
seventy  yards  wide.  Its  greenish  waters  flow  more  sedately,  less  rapidly, 
and  through  a country  with  less  declination  than  some  others.  At  the 
head  of  Paracti  the  thermometer  stood  at  73°  fahrenheit,  and  the  tem- 
perature of  the  river  water,  7 0°.  The  small  lakes  on  the  ridge  have  a 
temperature  of  59°,  and  as  we  are  now  at  the  base  of  the  ridge,  we  note 
the  difference,  11°  fahrenheit.  The  waters  which  flow  down  the  sides 
of  the  Andes  in  the  dry  seasons  are  partly  from  the  melted  snow,  having 
undergone  the  process  of  freezing  into  glaciers,  which  melt  again,  and 
the  waters  form  small  lakes  near  by.  As  these  lakes  fill  up,  the  water 
overflows  either  on  the  one  side  or  the  other,  sometimes  on  both ; if  the 
latter,  and  the  lake  be  upon  the  highest  ridge  of  the  great  range  of 
Cordilleras,  that  which  flows  over  the  west  side  of  the  lake  is  a tribu- 
tary to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  that  which  comes  to  the  eastward  goes  to 
the  Atlantic.  The  main  branch  to  the  Mamore  river  does  not  become 
navigable  for  canoes  until  it  turns  towards  the  north,  and  has  come  fairly 
under  the  rain  belt,  which  pours  down  heavily  to  latitude  17°  south. 
The  navigation  of  that  stream  is  marked  by  this  edge  of  the  rainy  region 
so  plainly,  that  the  river  Piray,  which  is  a tributary  of  the  Mamore  and 
close  by  it,  may  be  descended  in  a canoe  from  Puerto  de  Jeres,  while 
the  main  stream  throughout  its  length,  south  of  latitude  17°,  is  passed 
on  bridges  or  forded. 

On  the  side  of  the  Paracti  the  hills  are  small,  and  our  road  during  the 
day’s  travel  is  often  over  flats  or  slopes,  for  we  are  still  descending  over 
what  may  be  termed  the  great  breast  of  the  Andes,  which  swefls  out 
magnificently  towards  the  morning  sun  to  the  delightful  tropical 
breezes  that  blow  over  its  productive  soil. 

Our  train  of  mules  are  much  harassed  climbing  over  the  hills,  on  the 
east  side,  one  of  them,  exhausted,  lost  his  footing  and  rolled  over,  bag- 
gage and  all. 

We  encamped  by  the  side  of  the  Paracti  in  the  wilderness ; not  a 
house  near  us.  We  passed  our  acquaintances,  the  Yuracares  Indians, 
on  the  road.  They  marched  slowly  along,  with  bows  and  arrows  in 
hand,  dressed  in  their  bark  shirts,  bare-headed  and  footed ; true  wild 
men  of  the  woods.  They  had  no  fish  or  game.  Cornelio  said  they 
were  treated  so  well  by  us  they  would  not  exert  themselves  to  hunt, 


A NIGHT  IN  THE  WILD  WOOD. 


1S7 


but  as  soon  as  they  felt  hungry,  would  get  fish  from  the  river  or  turkeys 
from  the  woods. 

We  slung  our  hamacs  between  two  trees,  a fire  was  made,  our  mules 
were  turned  out  in  the  woods  to  roam,  picking  up  whatever  they  might 
find,  under  charge  of  the  old  white  mare,  “the  mother,”  as  she  is 
called,  of  the  train.  Rice  is  boiling  without  turkey.  The  moist  climate 
has  affected  the  gun-caps.  Cornelio  begins  to  look  thin  and  haggard. 
The  mules  have  fallen  away  so  much,  it  is  very  doubtful  if  they  will  be 
in  fit  condition  to  return. 

After  supper  we  lay  down  to  sleep  in  the  rain.  The  noise  of  the 
neighboring  stream  was  musical.  We  felt  we  should  make  headway 
when  once  launched  upon  the  river.  Though  roughly  used,  our  health 
keeps  good,  and  every  day  we  gain  a little.  The  farther  we  go  the 
slower  the  animals  move ; they  are  too  weak  to  bear  pushing.  The 
men  help  them  up  steep  places  by  the  after-part  of  the  baggage,  chang- 
ing cargoes  every  day.  The  mule  that  carried  a heavy  load  to-day 
takes  a lighter  one  to-morrow.  Our  saddle-mules  do  better,  as  they 
carry  a living  man  with  more  ease  than  dead  boxes.  One  of  the  bag- 
gage-mules ran  under  a tree  fallen  across  the  road,  struck  the  end  of 
the  box  of  instruments  and  knocked  it  off,  and  away  it  rolled  down  the 
bank. 

The  musquitoes  bothered  us  during  the  night,  and  the  vampire  bats 
bit  the  mules.  One  struck  Mamore  on  the  tail,  and  another  Pinto — an 
arriero — on  the  big  toe. 

At  the  head  of  the  Paracti,  we  find  birds  of  beautiful  plumage.  As 
soon  as  we  come  where  fish  are  found  in  the  streams,  there  the  woods 
are  filled  with  birds ; the  air  with  musquitoes  and  flies.  Ants  and  bees 
are  more  numerous,  as  well  as  wild  animals.  The  wild  Indians  do  not 
permanently  reside  here ; they  only  come  on  hunting  occasions  for  fish 
and  game  in  the  woods.  The  wild  duck  is  seldom  found  above  where 
the  fish  reach.  The  different  species  of  animals  seem  to  be  joyously 
feeding  on  each  other.  One  bird  robs  another  of  its  eggs,  while  a third 
carries  off  the  young  of  the  second.  One  bird  feeds  upon  the  berries  of 
the  trees,  and  prepares  himself  as  food  for  another  of  greater  strength. 
Some  fowls  feed  upon  the  fish  of  the  river,  while  the  snake  is  busy 
entrapping  their  mates.  Bees  make  honey,  and  the  bears  eat  it.  While 
the  arriero  preys  upon  the  ring-tailed  monkey,  the  vampire  bat  sucks 
the  blood  from  his  toe  or  his  dog’s  tail.  The  ants  are  disturbed  by  our 
fire ; the  whole  race  seems  to  be  in  a rage ; and  while  the  Indian  can 
travel  all  day  without  shoes,  these  insects  crawl  into  our  boots  and  sting 
us  most  unmercifully. 


188 


YURACARES  HUNTING. 


May  20,  1852. — At  5 p.  m.,  thermometer,  78°;  wet  bulb,  74°; 
cloudy  and  calm.  As  we  reached  the  foot  of  a hill,  we  met  a train  of 
mules  ascending  with  a cargo  of  cacao.  The  animals  were  miserably 
poor.  They  had  carried  down  salt  and  foreign  dry-goods.  One  of  the 
arrieros  unloaded  a mule  to  get  at  a bundle  of  straw-hats,  one  of  which 
he  wanted  to  sell  to  Richards.  When  they  called  to  the  train  to  go 
on,  it  was  with  difficulty  the  animals  were  assisted  to  rise,  who  had  laid 
down  under  their  loads. 

As  we  quietly  wind  our  way  through  a flat  country,  the  lofty  tree- 
tops  are  thickly  habited  by  the  monkey  tribe.  One  of  our  baggage- 
mules  became  entangled  in  a creeper.  The  animal  was  wound  up  in  it. 
It  struggled  with  all  its  might,  became  frightened,  stripped  itself  of  the 
baggage,  and  applying  all  its  strength,  down  came  the  whole  tree  over 
our  heads.  The  branches  switched  the  poor  mule  severely.  It  looked 
almost  distracted,  and  so  mueh  wound  up  that  no  one  could  under- 
stand the  ropes.  The  only  way  by  which  the  arriero  could  extricate  it 
was  by  cutting  the  creepers  on  both  sides  of  the  mule,  who  looked  as  if 
within  the  turns  of  a serpent  hanging  from  a limb,  and  winding  himself 
round  the  body  of  the  animal.  The  tree  by  which  we  were  standing 
protected  us.  The  falling  one  was  caught  in  its  descent,  so  that  we 
escaped  a severe  whipping,  if  nothing  worse. 

Cornelio  was  ahead,  and  halted  while  the  baggage-mules  passed  by. 
When  we  came  up,  we  found  him  shaking  hands  with  five  most  wild 
and  savage-looking  men.  Their  faces  were  painted  in  stripes  of  red, 
green,  and  blue,  which  gave  them  the  appearaaice  of  being  tattooed. 
Their  hair  was  short ; dirty  bark  cloths  were  suspended  round  their 
waists.  The  feet,  legs,  breasts,  arms,  and  heads  were  bare.  In  their  left 
hands  they  carried  bows  and  arrows ; in  a belt  a long  knife  of  English 
manufacture.  Their  teeth  were  much  worn  and  dirty.  They  had  holes 
in  their  ears  and  noses,  but  no  ornaments  in  them.  They  were  middle- 
sized  men,  stoutly  built,  but  lazy  looking.  Their  natural  color  was 
concealed  by  dirt  and  paint.  We  were  unable  to  tell,  upon  so  short 
acquaintance,  what  it  was.  Their  eyes  were  blood-shot,  and  their  gen- 
eral appearance  showed  to  most  advantage  when  viewed  from  amongst 
friends.  Each  one  came  up  and  shook  hands  in  an  awkward  manner 
that  plainly  showed  the  habit  was  not  natural.  They  smiled,  however, 
and  quickly  asked  for  bread,  fish-hooks,  and  knives.  Cornelio  told  them 
to  bring  us  game  and  fish  to  the  next  stopping-place,  and  when  we  un- 
loaded our  mules  he  would  have  something  for  them.  They  at  present 
received  bread  and  ate  it  up  greedily.  Rose  started  at  a noise  in  the 
woods,  and  on  looking  round,  we  beheld  three  more  younger  Indians 


YURACARES  HUNTING- 


189 


and  one  woman.  She  carried  an  earthen  pot  slung  to  her  back,  and  was 
dressed  like  the  men.  Her  head  was  large,  nose  flat,  and  altogether 
such  a hideous  being,  I shall  not  pretend  fully  to  describe  her.  She  was 
small,  and  appeared  like  a child  by  the  young  men,  who  were  better 
looking,  and  with  more  pleasing  expression  of  face  than  either  of  the 
others ; they  were  less  painted,  and  carried  smaller  sized  weapons.  This 
party  of  Indians  were  cf  the  Yuracares  tribe  on  a hunting  excursion. 
They  roam  through  the  woods  and  along  the  streams  seeking  food.  The 
woman  accompanies  them  as  cook  and  help ; she  carries  their  game, 
and  acts  as  the  servant  of  these  savage  men,  following  them  in  the  hunt 
with  the  old  smoked  earthen  pot  hanging  to  her  back.  When  a turkey 
falls,  or  a fish  is  drawn  from  the  river,  or  the  tiger  skin  is  taken,  they 
are  tossed  to  the  woman,  who  lugs  them  along  with  her  pot  until  they 
encamp  for  the  night,  when  she  builds  a fire,  cooks  the  game,  and  all 
seat  themselves  in  a ring  and  feast,  after  starving  a day  and  a half. 
Should  it  rain,  a few  large  green  leaves  are  spread  upon  some  branches 
of  bushes,  sloped  on  the  weather  side  of  a ridge-pole,  supported  by  two 
forked  stakes.  The  ground  underneath  is  bedded  with  more  green  leaves 
from  the  forest ; the  seven  men  and  one  woman  retire  for  the  night,  with 
their  feet  towards  the  fire,  which  is  a protection  against  musquitoes  and 
bats.  "When  rain  falls  at  night  the  air  is  cold,  and  these  wild  men  are 
kept  warm  sleeping  close  to  one  another.  In  the  morning,  before  the 
break  of  day,  they  are  all  on  their  feet ; not  a word  is  spoken ; a death- 
like silence  pervades  before  the  waking  up  of  other  animals.  The 
moment  the  ring-tailed  monkey  opens  his  eyes  and  gapes  after  his 
night’s  rest,  the  watchful  Indian  draws  his  bow  ; the  screaming  monkey 
falls  to  the  ground  pierced  by  an  arrow ; be  twists,  turns,  and  calls  for 
help  from  his  fellows ; the  Indians  stand  perfectly  still,  knowing  that 
the  curious  family  will  rush  to  the  rescue,  and,  as  they  one  by  one  crawl 
down  to  see  what  the  matter  is,  the  arrows  fly  silently  through  the  trees, 
when  the  screaming  is  terrible.  The  wild  turkey,  however,  is  not  dis- 
turbed, for  the  racket  made  by  the  monkey  family  is  only  a little  louder 
than  usual  at  that  hour  of  the  morning,  and  as  he  shakes  the  dew  from 
his  wings  before  he  flies  from  his  roosting-place,  the  well-aimed  arrow 
brings  him  to  the  ground.  Tigers  that  roam  about  for  their  breakfast, 
scent  the  Indian’s  resting-place  by  the  gentle  breezes  that  blow  from  it ; 
they  growlingly  approach  the  rude  habitation,  but  the  arrow  meets  him, 
strikes  inside  h’s  fore-shoulder,  penetrates  his  heart ; his  claws  tear  the 
earth,  and  his  teeth  clench  the  slender  arrow  in  his  dying  agony. 

As  the  sun  shines  brightly  upon  the  happy  waters  of  the  river,  the 
fish  begin  to  jump  and  play.  The  Indian  takes  his  stand  on  the  rocks 


190 


yuracar.es  hunting. 


in  the  stream,  and  with  an  eye  that  seems  to  penetrate  the  depths, 
shoots ; his  arrow  is  drawn  up  with  a breakfast  for  one,  sometimes  a 
foot  in  length. 

As  the  Indians  do  not  inhabit  this  region,  the  game  is  undisturbed, 
except  on  rare  occasions.  The  animals  increase  and  multiply  without 
being  frightened  by  the  sound  of  a rifle  or  the  noise  of  a shot-gun,  ex- 
cept when  the  white  man  appears. 

The  Yuracares  Indians  are  half-civilized,  or,  more  properly  speaking, 
are  half  friendly  to  the  white  man.  We  may  pass  among  them  without 
danger.  The  creoles  are  careful  to  treat  them  kindly,  well  knowing 
they  would  silently  draw  their  bow-strings  if  they  did  otherwise.  Cor- 
nelio  was  exceedingly  polite ; gave  them  part  of  what  they  asked  for, 
and  promised  more  when  they  brought  us  game,  which  appeared  reason- 
able to  them,  so  they  came  anxiously  after  us.  We  were  equally  as 
polite.  I was  obliged  to  be  unusually  particular,  as  one  of  them  inquired 
after  the  health  of  the  “Patron.”  After  they  had  looked  at  us,  it  was 
plain  they  distinguished  a difference  between  us  and  the  Spanish  race. 
One  turned  to  the  other  and  quickly  disclosed  his  discovery.  They  then 
drew  near  to  examine  the  North  Americans.  When  Richards  remarked 
“We  were  among  the  savages  at  last,”  they  all  laughed  and  talked 
among  themselves  in  quick  succession.  They  examined  our  boots  and 
gloves ; pointed  to  my  stirrups,  which  were  English,  and  differed  from 
those  used  in  the  country,  which  are  formed  of  painted  blocks  of  v^ood, 
with  a hole  cut  in  one  side  to  slip  the  foot  into  and  protect  the  toes 
against  rocks.  The  creoles  prefer  this  stirrup  because  it  provides  against 
rain  and  mud ; but  they  are  clumsy,  particularly  in  the  woods,  where 
they  are  constantly  catching  in  the  trees  and  bushes,  that  I do  not  think 
them  an  improvement.  The  mountain  saddles  with  high  backs  and 
pommels  are  indispensably  necessary  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes ; 
but  on  the  table-lands  and  along  the  roads,  among  the  Cordillera,  the 
plain  saddle  is  more  confortable,  though  probably  it  is  not  so  safe. 
Cornelio  uses  nothing  but  his  bedding,  over  which  he  slings  his  saddle- 
bags attached  to  a strap,  with  two  great  wooden  blocks  slung  to  each 
end,  and  a crupper  to  which  he  often  turns  aud  holds  on  as  the  mule 
jumps  down  a steep  place  in  the  road  to  the  risk  of  the  animal’s  tail. 

On  the  evening  of  the  21st  of  May,  we  sat  straight  in  the  saddle,  the 
mules  walked  leisurely  along  over  a level  road  to  the  bank  of  the  beauti- 
ful river  San  Mateo,  flowing  swiftly  to  the  northward  to  join  its  sister, 
the  Paracti,  which  runs  east.  The  stream  was  from  sixty  to  seventy 
yards  wide,  with  an  extended  rocky  bed,  which  shows  that  during  the 
rainy  season  it  is  a large  one,  though  less  rapid  than  the  Paracti. 


RIO  SAN  MATEO. 


191 


The  Indian  lives  by  the  side  of  the  San  Mateo.  Brighter  days  and 
clearer  nights  are  found  here.  The  soil  is  rich,  the  country  undulating. 
The  Indian  has  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the  valley  of  the  San  Mateo, 
until  his  eye  strikes  the  Andes. 

We  halted  at  a place  called  San  Antonio,  composed  of  a single  shed, 
very  neatly  built  and  thatched.  Our  hamacs  were  slung  up  and  bag- 
gage put  under  cover.  We  bathed  in  the  waters  of  the  stream,  and 
were  refreshed  by  our  suppers.  We  felt  grateful  we  had  crossed  all  the 
mountains  in  safety,  as  we  look  up  at  their  heads  among  the  clouds. 

The  evening  is  like  that  of  spring.  As  we  found  everlasting  winter 
on  top,  so  perpetual  summer  is  here.  The  flats  are  covered  with  a 
growth  of  forest  trees,  besides  which  there  are  cane-brakes,  bamboo, 
and  coarse  grasses,  sappy  bushes,  and  plants  that  prove  the  soil  to  be  of 
the  richest  kind.  This  is  the  place  for  the  axe,  the  plough,  and  the  hoe. 
The  axe  has  never  touched  one  of  the  trees,  except  when  the  Indian 
wanted  its  coat.  The  face  of  the  country  is  a true  picture  of  nature. 
The  hand  of  civilization  has  not  yet  touched  it,  though  probably  it  con- 
tains a soil  and  a climate  that  would  produce  as  well  as  the  richest  spot 
known,  and  would  astonish  the  planter,  not  only  by  an  enormous  yield, 
but  encourage  him  in  planting  a variety  yet  unexampled. 

A log  canoe  lay  fastened  to  a stone  near  the  bank  of  the  San  Mateo. 
This  is  the  first  wooden  vessel  we  have  seen  since  we  left  the  steamship 
“Bolivia”  at  Callao,  begging  pardon  of  the  wooden  spoons,  plates,  stir- 
rups, and  other  ware  along  the  route. 

Cornelio  has  unpacked  a smafl  bale  of  cotton  goods,  and  is  measuring 
off  several  yards  of  white  cotton  cloth  for  four  Yuracares  Indians’  pay 
in  advance  for  their  services  in  the  morning  in  helping  us  cross  the 
river.  The  trade  is  interesting ; the  Indians  have  thrown  down  their 
bows  and  arrows  in  confusion,  and  stand  watching  with  eager  eyes  the  un- 
rolling of  colored  cotton  handkerchiefs,  knives,  needles,  &c.  When  they 
see  the  fish-hooks  there  is  a shout  of  joy.  They  crowd  so  close  round 
old  Cornelio  that  he  has  great  difficulty  to  keep  the  savages  from  trying 
on  all  the  colored  cotton  caps  he  has  brought.  These  Indians  have  no 
gold  ornaments  to  trade  for  what  strikes  their  fancy;  they  are  nearly  dis- 
tracted with  desire  to  get  what  they  see.  They  own  nothing  but  bows 
and  arrows,  a little  yuca,  and  a few  ears  of  corn  to  offer  in  exchange. 
Animal  food  is  so  plentiful  here  that  they  are  not  obliged  to  cultivate 
the  soil,  however  productive  it  may  be. 

The  province  of  Yuracares  belongs  to  the  department  of  Beni.  It 
comprises  the  sides  of  the  ridge  from  head  to  foot,  and  therefore  within 
its  borders  the  climates  are  cold,  temperate,  warm,  and  hot.  Gold  is 


192 


PROVINCE  OF  YURACARES. 


reported  to  have  been  found  in  its  streams,  though  we  were  unsuccess- 
full,  after  washing  all  the  way  down  from  the  top.  We  did  not  see  the 
people  gathering  cinchona  bark,  prohibited  by  a decree  of  the  govern- 
ment. Few  of  these  trees  are  on  our  way  down,  yet  we  saw  trains  of 
mules  loaded  with  bark  crossing  the  Andes  on  their  way  to  the  Pacific, 
and  workmen  packing  it  up  in  bales  in  the  bank  at  Cochabamba.  Un- 
less a different  system  is  followed  in  the  gathering,  this  valuable  article 
of  trade  will  be  lost.  The  lands  wooded  with  cinchona  trees  belong  to 
the  government.  Private  individuals  have  no  control  over  tfie  preser- 
vation of  these  parts  of  the  forest.  All  who  desire  to  gather  may  do  so ; 
this  is  a destructive  plan.  Every  man  in  the  country  has  an  interest  in 
the  trade;  yet,  those  who  reap  the  greatest  benefit  by  it.  destroy  every 
tree  they  meet,  chopping  it  down,  and  stripping  every  inch  of  bark  from 
its  trunk  and  limbs. 


CINCHONA  FOREST, 


193 


CHAPTER  VII 1, 

Cinchona  forest — Indians  shooting  fish — Department  of  the  Beni — Yinchuta — 
Small  pox — Canichanas  boat’s  crew — Cotton  cloth  and  silver  coins — Our  faith- 
ful servant  Jose  Casses  and  the  mules — Trade  at  Yinchuta — A night  on  Coni 
creek — Embarkation  at  the  base  of  the  Andes — Chapare  river — Canoe  life — 
Floods — Bark  cloth — Pick  up  the  sick — Indians  at  prayers  in  the  wilderness — 
Lassoing  an  alligator. 

The  cinchona  trees  of  Bolivia  are  found  in  that  boisterous  uninhabited 
region  on  the  east  side  of  the  Andes  which  we  have  just  passed  through, 
in  a sort  of  belt  all  along  the  side  of  the  mountains,  stretching  from 
about  half-way  down  to  the  feet  of  the  Andes ; a beautiful  green  skirt, 
which  clothes  these  lofty  mountains  and  protects  their  nakedness  from 
the  heavy  east  winds  and  beating  rains.  The  general  impression  on  the 
other  side  of  this  valuable  forest  is,  that  the  cinchona  tree  may  be  found 
many  miles  to  the  eastward  of  where  the  bark  gatherer  has  penetrated. 
This  is  not  so  ; probably  most  of  them  have  touched  the  lowest  edge  of 
this  rich  dress.  0n4the  road  to  the  head  of  the  Madre-de-Dios,  in  Cuzco, 
I passed  beyond  where  the  hark  gatherers  went,  and  Leechler,  who  made 
his  living  by  collecting  bark,  was  constantly  saying  to  me,  after  we  got 
fairly  down  into  the  bottom  of  the  Amazon  basin,  “I  see  no  cinchona 
trees,  sir,  and  I am  looking  out  for  my  fortune  down  here.”  When  we 
returned  to  the  boisterous  region,  there  he  was  calling  my  attention  to 
the  shining  leaf,  clearly  distinguished  from  the  other  foliage. 

The  impression  in  Bolivia  is  that  the  Yungas  forest  is  giving  out,  and 
the  bark  gatherers  are  turning  their  attention  to  the  Yuracares  forests. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  the  forests  of  Yungas  have  been  nearly  stripped 
of  this  valuable  tree.  The  only  way  to  save  the  cinchona  tree  is  to  take 
the  hark  off  in  strips,  so  that  the  tree  will  cover  itself  again,  and  then  the 
supply  will  be  constant.  The  decree  issued  by  the  government,  prohib- 
iting the  cutting  of  bark  for  the  next  three  years,  is  no  remedy.  The 
forest  does  not  become  enriched  by  a new  growth  of  trees  in  that  time. 
It  requires  a man’s  life,  and  probably  more,  for  the  cinchona  tree  to  be- 
come of  full  size,  and  after  the  first  growth  is  cut  down  that  species  of 
tree  may  be  forever  lost  to  the  land  where  it  was  originally  found  in 
such  abundance.  The  cinchona  tree  requires  care  and  protection. 

At  daylight  in  the  morning  twelve  or  fourteen  Indians  came  to  San 
Antonio’s  shed  to  see  us.  Three  of  them  were  on  their  way  to  a lake 
13 


194 


INDIANS  SHOOTING  FISH. 


for  fish.  While  the  mules  were  loading  for  the  ferry  I accompanied  ihs 
three  savages.  As  we  walked  along  they  asked  me  all  sorts  of  questions-,, 
none  of  which  I could  understand.  When  they  saw  a bird  they  called 
my  attention  to  it,  and  made  signs  for  my  gun  to  shoot.  They  seemed 
to  admire  my  gun  as  much  as  I did  their  bows  and  arrows.  I drew 
from  my  belt  one  of  Colt’s  revolvers  and  showed  the  number  of  balls  it 
earned.  By  way  of  trying  one  of  them,  I offered  it  to  him  ; he  shook 
his  head,  no ; patting  his  hand  on  his  arrows,  as  much  as  to  say  he  ad- 
mired his  own  invention  the  best.  As  we  neared  the  fishing  place  they 
quickened  their  pace  and  walked  single  file,  like  soldiers  marching  up 
to  a fortification.  The  lake  was  small  and  deep,  with  water  so  clear 
that  the  bottom  was  plainly  to  be  seen.  The  stream  that  fed  it  ran  off 
the  side  of  a hill,  thickly  wooded.  Long  stakes  had  been  driven  into  the 
muddy  bottom,  and  to  the  heads,  which  stick  out  of  water,  poles  were 
fastened  by  means  of  creepers,  so  that  the  Indians  could  walk  out  upon 
a platform  just  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  As  they  did  so  they 
arranged  their  black  spears,  which  were  about  twelve  feet  long,  and 
silently  watched  on  the  bottom,  one  at  each  end  of  the  lake  and  one  in 
the  middle.  Their  arrows  were  pointed  down  into  the  water;  when  one 
fired  and  missed  there  was  a general  shout  of  laughter,  and  he  good 
naturedly  talked  to  them  and  to  the  fish  as  he  caught  the  arrow  when 
it  rebounded  to  the  surface,  between  the  bow  and  its  string,  a stout 
cord,  neatly  twisted,  made  of  white  cotton.  The  next  one  that  shot 
caught  his  arrow  in  the  same  way,  which  was  shaking  with  a heavy  fish, 
a foot  in  length.  He  killed  it  by  sticking  his  knife  into  the  back  of  its 
head,  took  out  rhe  arrow,  and  threw  the  fish  on  the  shore.  Turning  up 
the  point  of  his  weapon  he  sharpened  it  with  his  knife,  and  made  ready 
the  second  time.  The  knife  was  fastened  to  a string  suspended  round 
the  neck ; after  using  it,  he  threw  it  over  bis  shoulder,  where  it  hung  on 
his  back  out  of  his  way  till  the  next  fish  was  caught.  The  knife  looked 
like  a table  knife  broken  square  off,  and  sharpened  at  the  end  like  a 
chisel,  and  was  used  as  such,  not  like  a common  knife. 

As  the  fish  were  thrown  out  one  after  the  other,  in  quick  succession, 
the  excitement  became  very  great ; they  chatted  and  laughed  all  the 
while,  and  appeared  to  be  joking  one  another.  Their  faces  brightened 
pleasantly  as  they  drew  out  the  fish,  and  whenever  one  of  them  missed, 
they  all  shouted  in  loud  laughter.  Each  man  shot  five  fine  fish,  and 
one  of  them  one  more.  They  then  repaired  their  fishing  scaffold  and 
left  the  lake.  After  we  had  returned  some  distance  they  stopped,  cut 
fresh  green  leaves  from  a sort  of  cabbage  plant,  and  rolled  them  one  by 
one  therein,  after  their  entrails  had  been  taken  out.  One  of  them  made 


MANNERS  OF  THE  INDIANS. 


195 


a little  willow  hand  basket  in  a moment,  and  the  game  was  secured  from 
the  heat  of  the  sun,  which  by  this  time  was  shining  down  brightly.  A 
part  of  their  morning’s  labor  was  presented  to  me.  I returned  fish- 
hooks, which  pleased  them  more  than  anything  that  could  be  given  to 
them.  A little  aboriginal  came  for  the  fish,  and  while  he  took  them 
borne  to  the  women,  the  Indians  went  with  us  to  the  ferry. 

These  Indians  are  much  more  cheerful  than  those  on  the  mountains. 
They  have  a great  fancy  for  bright  colors,  and  live  after  their  own  fashion. 
Their  manners  and  customs  are  their  own,  and  have  never  been  changed 
by  the  influence  of  the  white  man.  Like  the  country  they  live  in,  they 
are  as  the  God  of  nature  made  them.  Their  natural  disposition  is  a 
peaceful  one,  with  a decided  character,  which  shows  that  the  Span- 
iards may  come  among  them  and  live  with  them  if  they  please.  But 
the  happy  life  of  the  hunter  is  not  to  be  given  up  for  the  more  laborious 
work  of  cultivating  coca  patches. 

These  Indians  occupy  about  the  same  district  of  country  here  that 
the  savage  and  unfriendly  Chunchos  do  in  Peru,  on  the  tributaries  of 
the  Madre-de-Dios  ; but  have  a different  expression  of  face,  now  that  we 
know  them  better.  They  are  more  manly  in  deportment  than  the 
Chunchos,  who  are  described  to  crawl  through  the  woods  with  wilful 
determination  of  assassins. 

They  loaded  the  canoe  with  our  baggage,  and  in  a smooth  place  in 
the  San  Mateo,  below  a very  rapid  fall,  paddled  across.  By  several 
trips,  they  safely  carried  all  our  boxes  over,  and  then  swam  the  mules. 
One  of  them  led  the  old  white  mare  into  the  stream  ; the  mules  fol- 
lowed ; the  Indians  dashed  in  after  them,  and  the  train  swam  to  the 
opposite  shore.  The  canoe  came  back  for  us,  and  we  embarked  at  the 
foot  of  the  Andes  on  a voyage  across  a stream,  which  was  not  navigable, 
even  for  a canoe,  except  wdiere  we  passed.  The  color  of  the  water  was 
milky. 

We  met  another  train  of  mules,  loaded  with  cacao,  on  their  way  to 
Cochabamba.  The  Indians  transported  them  over  the  same  way  they 
did  us. 

Our  mules  were  so  much  exhausted  that  they  stood  upon  the  rocky 
beach  hanging  their  heads.  As  the  water  dripped  from  their  sides  the 
hot  sun  dried  them,  and  the  swarms  of  sand-flies  troubled  them  as  much 
as  us.  Cornelio  told  me  his  animals  could  not  proceed — they  were 
nearly  worn  out ; so  that  we  had  to  spend  the  day  on  the  bank  of  the 
river,  while  the  mules  roamed  into  the  woods  and  along  the  wide  flat, 
which  overflows  in  the  rainy  season. 

The  department  of  the  Beni  is  the  ninth  and  last  in  Bolivia.  It 


196 


DEPARTMENT  OF  BENI. 


comprises  the  northeastern  portion.  This  and  the  department  of  Santa 
Cruz  are  the  two  largest  and  most  easterly  parts  of  the  country.  They 
stretch  from  the  Andes  to  the  Brazilian  territory. 

The  great  Beni  river,  which  rises  among  the  mountains  of  La  Paz ; 
the  Mamore,  from  the  department  of  Cochabamba;  and  the  Itenez, 
whose  headwaters  commence  in  the  mountains  of  Mntto  Grosso,  in 
Brazil,  all  flow  through  the  department  of  the  Beni ; yet  it  is  the  wild 
country  of  Bolivia,  and  probably  the  most  wealthy  of  the  States  of  this 
confederacy. 

That  part  of  the  Beni  which  lies  on  the  eastern  border  of  Yungas  is 
called  the  province  of  Apolobamba.  The  chocolate,  coca,  and  cinchona 
bark  from  Apolobamba  are  superior. 

The  southeast  trade-winds  from  the  South  Atlantic  ocean  meet,  and 
are  checked  by  the  great  Sorata  mountains.  The  town  of  Apolo* 
barnba,  on  the  river  Tuiche,  is  situated  half-way  between  the  gold  mines 
of  Tipuani  and  Carabaya.  There  is  no  such  cinchona  as  that  known 
as  the  “calisaya”  of  Apolobamba.  At  the  feet  of  these  trees  are  found 
the  richest  gold  mines  of  Bolivia;  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  moun- 
tain range  are  said  to  be  the  richest  gold  mines  in  South  America. 

The  southeast  trade-winds  are  uninterrupted,  after  they  rise  from  the 
ocean  and  pass  over  the  beautiful  “Organ”  mountains  in  sight  of  Bio 
Janeiro,  until  they  strike  the  slope  on  which  the  town  of  Apolobamba 
is  situated. 

Tbs  same  wind  that  propels  the  sailor  from  the  equator  towards  Cape 
Horn,  on  the  South  Atlantic  ocean,  on  his  way  for  the  Peruvian  bark, 
carries  the  moisture  from  the  same  ocean  to  give  life  to  the  trees  from 
which  the  sailor  receives  his  cargo.  No  man  is  supposed  by  seamen  to 
have  a right  to  the  privileges  of  grumbling  at  the  world  or  the  winds 
until  he  has  doubled  Cape  Horn. 

Having  rested  our  mules,  we  pushed  on  for  eight  leagues  over  a level 
road  to  the  port  of  Vinchuta,  which  is  composed  of  six  sheds,  or  Yura- 
cares  houses,  one  of  them  two  stories.  As  this  was  the  governor’s,  we 
dismounted  and  walked  up  stairs.  On  gaining  the  upper  floor,  a young 
creole  stepped  forward  and  politely  invited  us  to  a seat,  from  which 
we  could  overlook  the  towm.  We  were  told  that  the  governor  and  the 
inhabitants  had  deserted  the  place — they  took  fright  at  the  small  pox; 
and,  the  young  man,  pointing  to  a little  Indian  boy  with  a most  ghastly 
stare,  who  was  wrapped  up  in  a poncho  laying  near  me,  said,  “my  ser- 
vant, sir,  is  suffering,  very  much  with  that  disease,  and  down  the  country 
the  Indians  are  being  swept  off  at  a terrible  rate.”  This  was  not  the 
most  agreeable  news,  particularly  as  we  were  obliged  to  remain  here 


SAN  MATEO  FERRY.  Bolivia 


. 


' 


VINCHUTA. 


197 


nntil  the  governor  came  to  his  post  to  discharge  a large  canoe  which 
was  ready  to  leave  for  Trinidad,  the  capital  of  the  department,  and  in 
which  consisted  our  only  way  of  proceeding. 

A message  was  sent  to  the  governor,  who  was  at  the  small  town  of 
Chirnore,  where  the  Indians  had  collected  as  a retreat  from  the  small- 
pox, and  where  there  was  a padre. 

Vinchuta  is  the  point  at  which  the  traders  in  the  cacao  of  the  province 
of  Mojos  reach  those  of  Cochabamba  with  salt.  A cake  of  salt,  cut  out 
of  the  Lakes  of  Oruro  or  Potosi,  brought  down  to  Cochabamba,  is  worth 
thirty-seven  and  a half  cents.  When  that  cake  reaches  Trinidad,  it 
is  worth  two  dollars.  A mule  carries  eight  cakes,  or  six  arrobas — 
one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds.  Salt  sells,  therefore,  in  this  department 
at  a little  over  ten  cents  a pound.  The  freight  to  Vinchuta  from  Cocha  - 
bamba  is  eight  dollars  the  mule  load.  We  have  made  the  journey  in 
ten  days,  which  is  about  the  average  passage;  the  return  train  is  a couple 
of  days  longer,  but  it  has  been  made  in  ten  days  back. 

Cacao  is  bought  in  Trinidad  at  from  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  to  two 
dollars  and  fifty  cents  the  arroba,  or  twenty-five  pounds.  The  market 
price  in  Cochabamba  is  usually  six  dollars.  Chocolate  may  be  had,  then, 
in  Trinidad  at  six  cents  a pound,  while  in  Cochabamba  it  costs  twenty- 
four. 

The  houses  were  surrounded  by  the  primitive  forest,  the  only  land 
cleared  being  the  space  of  ground  in  the  centre,  where  there  was  a 
growth  of  grass  showing  what  beautiful  pasture  lands  these  fiats  would 
make  were  the  forests  cleared  away.  We  observed  a single  papaya  and 
a few  pepper  plants  by  one  of  the  houses.  The  mules  were  turned  Into 
the  woods,  and  we  towards  our  baggage  for  supper.  As  the  young  creole 
and  his  sick  “servant”  were  without  provisions,  they  appeared  glad  to 
see  us. 

We  found  the  creole  was  a schoolmaster,  going  down  to  one  of  the 
small  towns  in  the  country,  to  teach  young  Indians  Spanish.  The  gov- 
ernment supports,  upon  a very  small  pay,  teachers  in  all  the  towns  to 
instruct  the  Indian. 

rIhe  next  morning  the  governor  made  his  appearance,  read  our  pass- 
ports, and  said  there  was  a large  canoe  ready  for  us ; that  she  might  go 
oft  to  morrow.  lie  seemed  to  bean  active  little  man  and  very  obliging; 
wanted  to  know  all  the  news  from  Cochabamba,  and  was  constantly 
complaining  he  had  nothing  nice  to  give  us,  besides  which  he  was  very 
particular  to  let  us  know  he  had  the  roads  put  in  fine  order,  as  he  had 
been  ordered  to  do  by  the  prefect  of  his  department,  as  they  knew  we 
were  coming.  We  found  the  roads  at  best  shockingly  bad. 


198 


CANICIIANAS  INDIANS. 


While  he  was  talking,  a man  came  in  who  had  been  to  Potosi  and 
back  for  the  purpose  of  getting  the  governor’s  place,  but  the  government 
refused  to  make  a change,  so  the  disappointed  expectant  governor  had 
to  present  his  passports  to  the  one  in  office,  which  he  seemed  to  dislike. 

The  crew  of  the  canoe  was  sent  for ; they  were  fine,  stout,  open- 
countenanced,  respectable  looking  Indians  of  the  “Canichanas”  tribe, 
from  a town  in  the  province  of  Mojos,  near  the  Mamore  river.  These 
polite  mannered  men  stood  before  us  with  straw  hats  in  hand,  dressed  in 
a bark- cloth  “camisa,”  listening  to  what  the  governor  said  to  our  inter- 
preter— that  the  President  of  Bolivia  wished  them  to  take  particular 
care  of  us ; that  we  wanted  to  go  down  and  look  at  the  great  rivers,  and 
stated  how  many  yards  of  white  cotton  cloth  he  would  give  them  apiece, 
namely,  three  yards,  about  enough  to  make  each  a shirt.  They  promised 
to  do  their  duty  and  obey  my  orders. 

Had  I known  at  the  time  what  I discovered  afterwards,  I should  have 
made  the  bargain  with  the  men  myself.  It  appeared  that  the  governor 
paid  them  in  cotton  cloth,  while  I paid  him  in  silver  money.  The  honest 
laboring  Indian,  who  was  supposed  to  be  ignorant  of  the  act,  felt  the  in- 
justice and  saw  its  wrong  more  clearly  than  he  was  supposed  to  do. 
One  day,  long  after  our  first  meeting,  I happened  to  ask  the  interpreter 
which  the  Indians  cared  the  most  for,  silver  coin  or  cotton  cloth,  think- 
ing of  course  they  preferred  the  latter,  but  I found  they  knew  how  to 
make  cotton  cloth  with  their  own  hands.  So  little  do  they  care  for  it, 
that  the  governor  had  every  one  of  their  canoe  paddles  standing  up  iu  a 
corner  of  his  bed  room  for  fear  they  would  leave  without  a cargo  and 
go  home  with  an  empty  boat,  after  landing  the  chocolate  which  a creole 
sent  from  Trinidad. 

Jose  was  to  leave  us  here.  The  good  old  man  had  performed  his 
duty  in  the  service  of  the  United  States  very  faithfully.  He  had  not 
heard  from  his  wife  and  family  for  the  nine  months  he  has  been  with 
us.  We  engaged  him  as  a guide,  but  had  passed  beyond  his  knowledge 
of  the  country  before  we  got  to  Cuzco;  his  fluency  in  the  Quichua  lan- 
guage made  him  indispensably  necessary  to  the  expedition  ; he  made 
himself  so  useful  to  our  small  party  we  shall  long  remember  his  kind- 
ness. As  he  was  nearly  60  years  of  age,  with  a large  family  in  the  Juaja 
valley,  in  Peru,  we  could  not  persuade  him  to  go  farther  with  us ; we 
shall  miss  him  very  much.  I gave  the  old  man  “Bill,”  as  Richards 
called  his  mule,  to  return  home,  in  addition  to  his  pay,  and  an  honor- 
able discharge,  in  writing,  from  the  naval  service  of  the  United  States. 

Jose  had  two  faults,  more  or  less  natural  ones — he  had  a standing 
rule  to  get  intoxicated  periodically,  every  six  months ; and,  when  he 


TRADE  OE  VINCHUTA. 


199 


'irad  time,  lie  would  also  slip  into  a gambling  house  and  lose  his  month’s 
wages  in  a few  moments.  I have  often  persuaded  him  to  let  me  keep 
back  his  pay,  and  told  him  he  should  not  throw  it  away  ; when  he  would 
gently  answer,  “ Ah,  seftor,  there  are  very  few  perfect  people  in  this 
world.”  We  became  much  attached  to  him ; Richards  would  often 
say,  “ if  we  could  only  persuade  Jose  to  go  down  the  rivers  with  us,  we 
would  be  certain  to  get  through.” 

I also  regretted  to  part  with  my  faithful  mule,  Rose.  She  had  car- 
ried me  nearly  two  thousand  miles  over  the  worst  roads  known  to  the 
white  man,  without  having  fallen  once  during  the  whole  route.  This 
was  the  third  time  she  had  descended  the  eastern  side  of  the  Andes  into 
the  montaha,  without  injury  to  herself  or  others.  When  she  saw  dan- 
ger she  came  to  a stand-still,  and  never  would  proceed  until  I dis- 
mounted, and  then  she  would  often  refuse  to  go  on  until  some  other 
mule  went  before  her. 

The  horse  may  be  driven  into  danger  by  the  rider  ; with  the  spur  a 
horse  may  be  made  to  break  his  neck  over  a rickety  mountain  bridge; 
he  is  man’s  favorite ; is  stabled,  fed,  combed,  and  watered,  in  health ; 
when  sick  he  has  a doctor.  But  the  jackass  will  not  cross  a dangerous 
place  ; whip  him,  he  hangs  down  his  head,  lays  back  his  long  ears,  and 
lets  fly  both  heels  at  whoever  attempts  to  force  him.  He  will  turn 
round  and  bite ; in  this  he  shows  a higher  order  of  intelligence  than  the 
horse.  Man  beats  the  jack;  uses  him  all  day,  and  at  night  turns  Jim 
out  on  the  road-side  to  feed  upon  thistles,  and  to  find  drink  where  he 
can. 

Rose  has  the  characteristics  of  both  animals.  In  gentleness  of  dispo- 
sition and  intelligence,  she  takes  after  her  sure-footed  father,  the  jack ; 
in  activity,  beauty  of  form,  and  liveliness  of  spirit,  after  her  mother,  the 
mare,  of  the  Argentine  pampas.  This  cross  is  the  only  animal  valu- 
able as  a beast  of  burden  in  these  mountainous  countries.  The  horse 
would  fall  or  be  worried  to  death  where  the  mule  passes  with  ease.  Their 
backs  are  short,  and  therefore  can  carry  a load  better  than  a horse.  The 
jackass  is  too  slow  for  a long  journey,  but  like  the  llama  will  serve  the 
purposes  of  the  Indian,  who  suits  himself  to  the  gait  of  those  animals. 

The  best  mules  are  thought  to  be  the  females ; they  are  better  tem- 
pered, work  easier,  carry  heavier  loads,  and  keep  in  good  order  upon 
Jess  food  than  the  male  mule.  The  females  are  invariably  the  best  sad- 
dle mules. 

Vinchuta  is  the  eastern  commercial  emporium  of  Bolivia,  but  foreign 
manufactures  come  down  from  the  mountains  of  the  country  instead  of 
up  the  rivers  from  the  sea.  After  the  cotton  goods,  glass  ware,  and 


200 


CONI  CREEK, 


cutlery  of  Europe  and  North  America  are  disembarked  at  Cobija,  they 
traverse  the  Cordilleras  over  rocky  roads,  through  the  desert  of  Atacama, 
the  barren  plains  of  Oruro,  over  the  Andes,  and  down  those  terrible  roads 
we  have  just  travelled.  After  worrying  and  tugging  for  more  than  eight 
hundred  miles,  all  of  that  part  of  the  cargo  not  ruined  by  such  a journey 
on  the  backs  of  mules,  arrives  at  the  most  important  commercial  port 
this  country  possesses. 

There  is  very  little  trading  going  on  here,  because  the  outlet  on  the 
one  hand  is  such  as  we  describe,  and  the  people  seem  to  be  ignorant  of 
the  advantages  offered  to  them  from  the  Atlantic  direct,  instead  of 
the  round-about  way  of  the  Pacific. 

But  the  business  under  these  sheds  in  the  wilderness  attracts  atten- 
tion. We  find  the  Aymara,  Quichua,  and  Spanish  languages  mingling 
with  the  Yuracares  and  Canichanas  ; we  are  pleased  to  add  the  Anglo- 
Norman.  The  arriero  and  the  canoe  men  meet  in  friendship  with  each 
and  with  us. 

On  Tuesday,  25th  May,  we  descended  the  steep  bank  of  Coni  creek, 
stepping  into  a canoe  made  of  a log  forty  feet  long  and  four  feet  wide. 
The  model  of  this  canoe  appeared  to  us  a beautiful  one  as  she  sat  upon 
the  water.  She  was  one  of  the  largest  used  by  the  Bolivian  Indians, 
and  the  contour  of  the  vessel  resembled  a model  frigate  more  than  any 
other.  Her  cargo  was  piled  up  on  the  bank  under  a rustic  bouse  built 
by  the  crew  of  the  leaves  and  branches  of  trees.  The  boat-keeper  was 
washing  out  the  canoe ; she  was  open  fore  and  aft. 

The  creek  was  fifty  yards  wide,  with  a swift  current.  As  we  stood 
in  the  canoe  and  looked  up  the  stream,  we  could  see  the  great  Andes 
far  back  among  the  clouds.  This  was  to  be  our  last  view ; they  were 
nearly  out  of  sight,  and  we  were  to  enter  upon  a new  life.  Jose  and 
the  mules  bad  left  us.  Our  party  was  composed  of  Mamore,  Richards, 
and  myself.  As  the  crew  came  one  by  one  from  Vinchuta,  with 
parts  of  the  cargo  carried  on  their  backs,  Mamore  barked ; bis  loud 
voice  made  the  wild  forest  ring.  The  crew  became  attached  to  him  at 
once,  and  laughed  at  the  fear  expressed  by  those  who  came  up  last. 
We  found  him  to  be  valuable,  and  rated  him  as  sentinel  both  by  night 
and  by  day. 

The  boat’s  crew  was  deficient.  There  were  ten  men  here,  four  bad 
been  left  along  the  banks  of  the  river  on  their  way  up  with  the  small- 
pox, and  one  of  the  ten  was  taken  sick  here ; therefore  our  crew  was 
reduced  to  nine  working  men.  The  sick  boy  lay  on  the  bank  with  this 
horrible  disease,  shaded  by  a few  green  leaves  from  the  hot  sun  in  the 
day,  and  partly  protected  from  the  rain  during  the  night,  without  medi- 


Lilt  of  P S. Duval  8r  C°  PM 


CONI  CREEK. 


201 


cal  attention  or  any  relief  whatever.  The  poor  creature  seemed  to  bear 
the  pain  with  patience,  but  his  stare  was  sickening  as  he  looked  up  from 
under  the  bushes. 

Two  of  the  crew  were  engaged  with  small  iron  axes  cutting  sticks  of 
wood  long  enough  to  rest  the  ends  on  the  iuside  of  the  canoe  across  the 
bottom,  so  as  to  leave  an  inch  or  two  space  under  this  flooring  for  any 
water  to  pass  clear  of  the  baggage.  Five  of  these  floorings  were  laid 
at  equal  distances  apart,  wide  enough  to  place  two  trunks  lengthwise, 
and  two  more  on  top  of  them,  with  space  between  for  two  canoemen  to 
sit  and  paddle.  Raw-hides  were  placed  on  the  platforms,  and  on  them 
the  baggage  was  neatly  laid.  Our  trunks  and  boxes  stowed  very  well, 
and  were  covered  with  raw-hide.  As  the  bottom  of  our  boxes  were 
water-tight,  we  were  satisfied  that  unless  we  upset  or  filled,  the  baggage 
would  go  perfectly  dry — an  important  matter  in  a wet  climate  under 
the  most  favorable  circumstances — and  more  so  when  there  is  no  stop- 
ping-places on  the  road  from  town  to  town,  where  the  traveller  can  pick 
up  a dinner. 

Vines  and  creepers  were  bowed  and  fastened  by  the  ends  to  the  sides 
of  the  after-part  of  the  canoe,  and  over  them  were  spread  raw-hides, 
hair  side  under,  for  the  length  of  twelve  feet.  This  was  the  cabin.  Our 
gun  was  slung  overhead,  powder-flask  and  shot-bag  to  the  bows.  The 
instrument  box  was  safely  stowed  inside,  so  that  we  might  get  at  the 
ruled  paper,  and  chart  the  river.  We  set  our  compass  inside  also.  The 
floor  of  the  cabin  was  a rustic  grating  made  by  one  of  the  crew,  with 
small  straight  sticks  fastened  to  a heavy  cross  piece  by  means  of  a 
slender  creeper.  Our  beds  were  kept  in  India-rubber  bags.  After 
getting  nearly  ready,  we  found  there  still  remained  another  load  of  salt 
in  the  governor’s  house,  and  as  night  had  come  on  and  the  rain  began 
to  fall,  we  would  be  detained  until  the  next  day.  Then,  too,  the  school- 
master and  the  disappointed  ex-governor  were  to  take  passage  in  the 
same  canoe ; it  was  their  only  chance  like  ours,  and  as  there  was  no 
telling  when  another  canoe  would  be  here,  all  claim  a right  to  go.  Of 
course  I could  not  object,  under  such  circumstances,  although  they 
would  be  very  much  in  our  way,  as  we  were  about  to  explore  a critical 
part  of  navigation  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Madeira. 

So  our  tent  was  pitched  on  the  bank ; it  had  been  our  house  on  the 
barren  mountain-tops,  and  now  it  was  put  updn  the  wild  woods.  There 
the  climate  was  cold,  and  the  tent  protected  and  kept  us  warm.  Here 
the  climate  is  hot,  arfcl  when  the  tent  is  closed  and  the  canvass  became 
wet,  we  found  the  heat  oppressive.  We  could  not  sleep,  so  we  threw 
open  the  door-way  and  in  swarmed  musquitoe3.  It  was  evident  that 


202 


LIFE  OF  CANOE  MEN. 


the  tent  could  not  accommodate  so  many  comfortably;  we  were  therefore 
driven  out.  The  rain-storm  increased.  I found  my  way  down  the  clayed 
bank  to  the  canoe.  Richards  joined  the  schoolmaster  under  the  rustic 
hut.  The  musquitoes  soon  drove  me  out,  and  we  all  gathered  round 
a large  fire  built  by  the  Indians,  and  watched  their  mode  of  passing 
such  a night. 

A large  pot  of  water  was  put  on  the  fire.  It  was  midnight ; the 
wind  roared  through  the  forest  trees,  and  the  rain  beat  heavily  at  the 
feet  of  the  Andes.  The  Indians  drew  knives  and  gathered  round  the 
light  of  the  fire  to  skin  the  yuca.  Some  divided  them  into  small  pieces, 
and  pitched  them  into  the  pot  with  a piece  of  salted  meat.  After  the 
pot  was  properly  hung  over  the  fire  by  a strong  raw-hide  rope,  they 
lay  down  under  their  green  leaf  roof,  and  wfith  their  feet  to  the  hot 
ashes,  and  heads  covered  with  an  extra  shirt,  stretched  out  for  a nap. 
One  kept  awake  as  cook  to  attend  the  boiling  pot. 

All  slept  soundly  for  a while.  We  were  then  disturbed  by  musqui- 
toes and  the  rain.  The  Indians  were  snoring ; the  cook  was  talking  to 
his  pot  as  it  boiled  over,  and  the  water  caused  a hissing  noise  in  the  fire. 
Suddenly  all  jumped  up,  leaving  their  bark-cloth  camisas  under  cover, 
and  joined  the  cook  in  the  rain. 

We  carry  a tin  wash-basin,  which  happened  to  be  close  by  in  the 
light  of  the  fire.  I did  not  understand  why  it  had  not  been  put  into 
the  canoe  with  other  things.  One  of  the  naked  red  men  picked  it  up 
and  placed  it  near  the  cook,  who  turned  the  hot  yuca  soup  into  the 
basin.  A satisfactory  expression  shone  in  every  face  as  they  squatted 
around  our  tin  wash-basin.  Each  man  formed  his  fingers  into  spoon- 
shape,  and  dipped  in  ; thus  they  laughingly  passed  the  remainder  of  the 
night.  One  hand  was  actively  playing  between  the  basin  and  their 
mouths,  while  the  other  was  constantly  in  motion  flapping  the  musqui- 
toes, who  came  up  from  the  darkness  behind.  Our  dog  rose  up  from 
his  sleeping  position  to  look  on.  The  men  were  constantly  calling  him 
by  his  familiar  name,  and  dividing  their  share  of  the  supper  with  him. 
We  were  obliged  to  be  resigned  to  our  fate,  not  knowing  where  to  go 
for  comfort,  or  how  to  get  to  sleep.  These  wild  men  accommodated 
themselves  perfectly  to  circumstances.  We  looked  on  as  long  as  we 
could  keep  our  eyes  open,  and  at  last  fell  asleep.  At  day-break  I found 
myself  refreshed ; but  on  opening  my  eyes,  saw  my  pillow  had  been 
the  body  of  the  poor  sick  boy,  who  was  so  weak  with  the  small-pox 
that  we  had  him  sent  up  to  the  governor.  • 

These  kind-hearted  men  pay  all  the  attention  to  the  sick  they  possi- 
bly can ; but  they  are  at  a loss  to  know  what  to  do  for  the  small-pox. 


YURACARES. 


203 


They  wait  patiently  until  it  passes  away.  I believe  they  think  it  is 
a punishment  sent  to  them,  and  they  must  hear  it  the  best  way 
they  can. 

The  Yuracares  Indians  are  not  navigators,  but  hunters,  and  are  less 
under  the  control  of  the  church  than  either  the  cultivators  of  the  soil 
or  our  canoemen.  I was  unable  to  find  out  the  number  composing  the 
Yuracares  tribe,  but  there  are  not  many  of  them.  Chimore  is  the 
capital  of  the  province,  and  in  the  list  of  “villas,”  which  are  given  for 
all  places  containing  over  three  hundred  inhabitants,  Chimore  is  not 
found.  The  Yuracares  tribe  are  scattered  along  the  base  of  «the  Andes 
in  this  province  in  little  bands  of  from  seven  to  twenty ; and  there  may 
be  in  the  whole  province  six  hundred  Yuracares  Indians.  The  present 
productions  of  Yuracares  are  confined  principally  to  the  cinchona  bark 
and  coca. 

As  the  streams  and  soils  have  not  been  carefully  examined,  we  are 
ignorant  of  its  mineral  wealth.  Yuracares  is  an  extensive  province,  well 
wooded  and  watered,  with  a very  sparse  population  throughout.  At 
the  base  of  this  ridge  of  mountains  appears  the  most  inviting  place  we 
have  met  in  Bolivia  for  the  cultivator  of  the  soil.  It  is  within  the  rain- 
belt.  The  coffee  tree  of  Yuracares  is  much  more  heavily  loaded  with 
grains  than  those  seen  at  Rio  Janeiro,  in  Brazil. 

The  small-pox  was  brought  by  the  Indians  of  the  low  country,  who 
in  turn  had  it  from  Brazil,  and  finally  bore  it  up  the  mountain-side  into 
the  city  of  Cochabamba. 

A warehouse  should  be  constructed  in  Vinchuta  in  the  most  careful 
way,  to  avoid  the  dampness  of  the  climate.  Flour  spoils  quickly, 
particularly  that  made  from  grain  produced  in  a cold  climate.  South- 
ern grain  lasts  the  longest  there.  White  cotton  goods  must  be  cov- 
ered to  avoid  the  wTet,  as  well  as  all  other  articles  w'hich  are  in  the  least 
injured  by  damp  weather.  All  valuable  goods  should  be  well  packed 
in  bales  of  seventy-five  pounds  weight.  A mule  carries  half  a cargo 
up  the  eastern  side  of  the  Andes.  Two  bales,  weighing  one  hundred 
and  fifty  pounds,  are  taken  at  the  same  price  three  hundred  are  carried 
for  on  better  roads. 

The  Indians  bring  up  quantities  of  chocolate  from  Mojos  enclosed  in 
raw-hides.  They  stow  four  of  these  bails  on  one  platform  in  a canoe  ; 
but  when  they  arrive  here,  the  arriero  must  rip  the  bales  open  and 
divide  them,  to  form  suitable  loads  for  each  of  his  mules.  By  this 
means,  some  is  wasted,  and  all  exposed  to  the  climate. 

Pieces  of  machinery,  boxes  of  wine,  or  valuable  articles,  are  often 
left  behind  by  not  being  of  proper  weight.  Even  if  the  animals  were 


204 


DISPOSITION  OF  PUBLIC  LANDS. 


strong  enough  to  carry  them,  the  roads  are  not  wide  enough  to  admit  a 
passage. 

We  saw  an  elephant  travelling  on  the  table-lands  of  Bolivia,  who 
walked  through  the  Cordillera  rauge  of  mountains  at  the  pass  of  Anta- 
rangua,  sixteen  thousand  feet  above  the  Pacific  ocean.  When  he  came 
to  the  Apurimac  suspension  bridge,  the  tollman  shut  his  door,  and 
refused  positively  to  allow  the  elephant  to  attempt  to  cross  over,  even 
if  he  could  have  done  so.  The  keeper,  a Yankee,  swam  him  over  the 
stream.  There  were  many  places  on  the  mountains  where  the  rocks 
were  cut  to  admit  a mule-load  to  pass,  where  the  elephant  scraped  his 
back  and  sides. 

' Goods  covered  with  raw-hide  are  preserved  best  from  rain.  It  is 
frequently  thus  used  to  protect  bark,  chocolate,  sugar,  and  coffee. 

At  the  national  convention  of  1851,  a grant  of  twelve  square  leagues, 
in  the  province  of  Yuracares,  excepting  the  cinchona  trees  upon  the 
soil,  was  made  to  Don  Carlos  Bridoux,  upon  condition  that  he  would 
exert  himself  to  raise  the  indigo  plant,  cotton,  tobacco,  sugar,  cacao,  aud 
coffee;  provided  he  would  take  possession  of  the  laud  within  a certain 
time. 

By  the  same  law,  the  executive  was  authorized  to  make  grants  to 
citizens  or  foreigners  of  from  one  to  twelve  square  leagues,  in  considera- 
tion of  advantages  to  be  offered  for  the  public  benefit  in  working  the 
lands.  Senor  Bridoux  has  selected  his  lands  near  the  port  of  Yinchuta. 
This  gentleman  was  very  kind  to  the  expedition  in  Cochabamba.  We 
are  indebted  to  him  for  personal  attention  at  his  hospitable  house.  We 
owe  him  many  thauks  for  aid  and  assistance  offered  in  a most  generous 
spirit. 

Citizens  or  foreigners  wishing  to  cultivate  the  public  lands  of  Bolivia, 
may  do  so  by  a formal  application  to  the  prefect  of  the  department  in 
which  the  lands  are  situated,  and  the  prefect  has  authority,  by  custom, 
to  secure  to  the  settler  one  square  league. 

For  the  want  of  laws  touching  the  sale  of  public  lands,  citizens  or  for- 
eigners are  deprived  of  the  advantage  of  purchasing,  but  are  at  liberty 
to  settle  where  they  please,  so  loug  as  they  do  not  interfere  with  others, 
or  the  public  treasury. 

So  extensive  are  the  public  lands  of  Bolivia,  and  so  few  emigrants 
enter  the  country,  that  the  government  has  thought  it  policy  to  make 
liberal  grants  to  actual  settlers,  as  well  to  citizens  of  other  countries  as 
to  their  own.  These  valuable  lands  lie  idle  for  the  want  of  population. 

The  men  of  intelligence  in  Bolivia  received  the  idea  of  exploring  their 


EMBARKATION  ON  CONI  CREEK. 


205 


rivers  to  the  Atlantic  with  enthusiasm.  In  Cochabamba  the  whole  pop- 
ulation have  been  aroused  to  the  importance  of  the  enterprise. 

When  the  rivers  are  swollen  in  the  low  lands,  the  arms  of  the  canoe- 
men  have  not  power  to  propel  their  vessels  against  the  current.  Trade, 
for  half  the  year,  stands  still ; human  strength  is  not  equal  to  the  re- 
quirements of  the  trade  that  is  carried  on. 

There  are  supposed  to  be  at  least  ten  thousand  silver  and  gold  mines 
abandoned  in  this  country;  one-third  may  have  been  exhausted,  and 
the  remainder  have  been  left  because  the  miners  struck  below  the  water- 
line. 

Respectfully  taking  off  our  hats  to  the  gigantic  Andes,  we  push  on 
in  our  little  canoe.  As  the  men  dip  their  paddles  in  the  water  we  glide 
rapidly  along  with  the  current  of  Coni  creek.  After  being  tossed  up 
and  down  on  the  mountains  for  a year,  the  change  is  enlivening.  We 
feel  this  water-carriage  is  put  in  motion  by  the  All  Powerful,  in  whom 
we  have  placed  our  trust  and  confidence  in  a long  journey  through  the 
wilderness  towards  our  homes. 

The  Indians  suddenly  began  to  work  hard  at  their  paddles  ; the  fine- 
looking  old  captain  talked  to  the  crew  sharply,  and  we  went  dashing  over 
rapids  at  a most  furious  rate  ; the  waters  roared  against  the  great  trunks 
of  trees  that  stuck  up  in  the  shape  of  snags ; the  logs  were  in  con- 
stant motion,  like  sawyers;  the  channel  was  narrow  ; one  little  mistake 
of  the  pilot  would  have  dashed  us  sideways  among  the  snags,  and  our 
canoe  must  have  rolled  under.  Every  man’s  eyes  seemed,  for  the  mo- 
ment, half  a size  larger,  for  the  reduced  crew  of  the  heavy  and  long 
canoe  had  to  exert  themselves  to  the  utmost  of  their  strength  to  manage 
and  keep  her  clear  of  danger. 

Our  cargo  was  bulky — cakes  of  salt  brought  her  down  so  deep  in  the 
water  that  she  moved  sluggishly.  Richards,  seated  on  the  baggage  in 
front,  guarded  Maitiore,  who  was  unaccustomed  to  the  water,  and  it  was 
with  difficulty  he  could  be  kept  from  jumping  overboard. 

Coni  creek  is  not  navigable  for  a steamboat ; the  lands  on  both  sides 
are  flat  and  thickly  wooded  with  a rich  growth  of  bamboo ; these  lands 
are  all  overflowed  in  the  wet  season,  and  therefore  are  uninhabitable. 
Temperature  of  water,  74°.  We  saw  a small  lion  or  puma  on  the  bank, 
besides  a number  of  wild  turkeys,  and  shot  a wild  goose.  The  banks 
break  down  perpendicularly  with  rich  black  surface  soil  one  foot  and  a 
half  thick. 

Our  canoe  was  soon  launched  into  the  waters  of  the  river  Chapare, 
one  hundred  yards  wide,  and  where  we  entered  it  twelve  feet  deep ; we 
have  scarcely  lost  sight  of  the  Andes.  The  canoe  was  stopped  that  we 


206 


RIO  CHAP  ARE. 


might  repeat  the  soundings ; as  -we  descended  the  soundings  increased 
to  two  and  a half  fathoms  upon  a current  of  one  and  five-tenths  of  a 
mile  per  hour.  The  muddy  stream  wound  its  way  through  the  forest 
trees  and  thick  cane-brakes  like  a great  slow-moving  serpent.  We  find, 
at  the  foot  of  the  most  lofty  mountains,  that  the  lands  on  both  sides  of 
this  navigable  river  are  semi-annually  deluged ; that  the  rise  of  the  wa- 
ters in  the  wet  season  is  about  thirty  feet,  and  by  the  marks  on  the  trunks 
of  the  trees,  the  appearance  of  the  undergrowth,  with  the  information 
gained  from  the  creoles  and  confirmed  by  the  Indians,  the  banks  are 
overflowed  about  two  feet  deep.  In  the  rainy  season,  the  bottom  of  the 
Madeira  Plate  would  have  been  found  covered  with  water,  so  that  we 
might  navigate  over  the  land  in  a canoe  drawing  less  than  two  feet ; 
our  canoe  draws  but  six  inches  when  fully  loaded. 

The  forest  trees  here  are  not  so  large  as  higher  up  the  country,  nor  is 
vegetation  heaped  up  in  such  luxuriance  as  we  saw  it  on  our  way  down 
through  the  boisterous  region.  The  climate  is  more  mild  and  gentle  in 
its  action.  As  night  comes  on,  thunder  roars  and  lightning  flashes 
above  us  towards  the  southwest  among  the  mountains,  while  here  the 
sky  is  clear,  and  winds  gently  blow  from  the  northwest.  The  winds 
strike  heavily  against  the  great  elevated  side  of  the  earth,  and  the  storm 
there  is  raging  from  the  southeast. 

The  sun  passes  from  our  view  behind  dark  clouds,  and  cuts  our  day 
short  by  setting  below  the  great  ridge  which  stand  between  us  and  the 
Pacific.  We  have  watched  the  mercury  in  our  thermometer  as  it  fell 
by  the  application  of  boiling  water  in  ascending  those  mountains  from 
the  great  western  ocean,  and  saw  its  indisposition  to  rise  or  to  fall  as  we 
travelled  along  on  the  table  lands  of  the  Titicaca  basin.  As  we  de- 
scend on  this  side  it  gradually  ran  up  again,  until  now  we  have  arrived 
on  a level.  The  observation  of  yesterday  was  the  same  as  that  of  to-day, 
at  our  journey’s  end. 

Turning  to  the  table  of  observations,  in  Lima,  22d  April,  1851,  at  3 
p.  m.,  boiling  point,  209,  250  ; temperature  of  air,  77°.  Here  on  the 
Chaparc  river,  May  27,  1852,  at  9.30  a.  m.,  boiling  point,  209,  500; 
temperature  of  air,  75°.  These  show  how  near  the  bottom  of  the 
Madeira  Plate  is  on  a level  with  the  ocean.  They  tell  us  we  are  below 
Lima ; but  Lima,  according  to  our  barometrical  measurement,  was  493 
feet  above  sea  level.  On  the  river  we  are  28  feet  below  the  general 
level  of  this  part  of  the  Madeira  Plate. 

The  Indians  paddle  their  canoe  for  a short  distance  with  a will,  and 
then  let  her  ride  along  on  the  current.  They  lay  up  the  paddles  on  the 
gunwale,  put  one  leg  over  the  handle,  and  drawing  from  among  the 


CANOE  LIFE. 


207 


baggage  a piece  of  corn  busk,  cut  it  into  squares,  and  rolling  tobacco  up 
fine,  make  the  husk  serve  as  a wrapper  for  their  cigars. 

Each  one  carries  a little  spunk  in  the  hollow  end  of  a cow’s  horn,  which 
indicate  cattle  ahead  somewhere,  and  with  a piece  of  flint  rock  strike  light 
with  the  back  of  a knife.  We  noticed  that  the  crew  carried  small  bags 
filled  with  flint  rocks,  which  they  gathered  about  Vinchuta,  and  were 
taking  down  to  the  province  of  Mojos  for  sale.  We  have  just  passed  the 
rocky  formation,  and  find  the  soil  alluvial  for  over  thirty  feet. 

We  camped  on  a low  sand  beach  on  the  west  side  of  the  river.  The 
crew  gathered  a number  of  canes  from  the  brake,  and  the  captain  made 
a frame-work,  over  which  an  India-rubber  poncho  was  hung;  underneath 
the  leaves  of  the  cane  were  spread  as  a protection  from  the  dampness  of 
the  soil  on  which  the  bed  was  laid,  and  over  it  a musquito  net. 

The  crew  made  a house  by  stacking  cane  leaves  and  branches  on  the 
side  of  a ridge-pole,  like  farmers  make  a shed  of  corn  fodder  tor  cattle. 
The  open  side  of  this  shed  was  facing  the  east.  A fire  was  soon  made, 
and  ouj'  disappointed  governor  proved  to  be  as  good  at  cooking  as  the 
schoolmaster  at  eating  chupe.  The  only  provision  the  ex-governor  had 
made  was  a bladder  filled  with  what  sailors  call  slush,  a few  cakes  of 
chocolate,  a pot,  and  some  bread  turned  green  with  mould.  The  In- 
dians pealed  yuca,  and  we  supplied  rice  and  goose  for  the  chupe,  and 
sugar,  and  tin  pots  for  the  chocolote.  The  schoolmaster  came  unpro- 
vided with  grub;  it  is  presumed  he  was  usually  “boarded  out.” 

The  Indians  gathered  around  their  fire,  while  the  captains  of  the  boat 
saw  the  patron’s  bed  attended  to.  When  the  chupe  was  made,  the  cook 
politely  informed  the  captains,  and  after  they  had  seated  themselves  by 
our  tin  basin,  the  others  gathered  round.  All  in  turn  talked  and  joked 
as  they  enjoyed  their  suppers.  The  crew  elect  their  own  captains ; the 
most  active,  energetic,  and  intelligent  man  was  chosen,  without  regard 
to  age.  Should  he  prove  incapable,  or  misbehave,  he  is  broken  and 
placed  in  the  seat  of  the  paddle-man  selected  over  him.  Every  man 
obeys  his  orders,  and  is  particular  in  his  mode  of  addressing  the  captain 
and  his  mate,  or  rather  a second  captain,  who  helps  to  steer  the  canoe, 
and  generally  encourages  the  men  to  keep  good  time  with  their  paddles 
by  stamping  his  foot  upon  the  floor  of  the  canoe  where  he  stands  behind 
the  cabin.  The  captain  only  stamps  his  foot  on  particular  occasions, 
when  the  crew  work  unusually  well,  laying  out  their  whole  strength 
when  he  speaks  to  them.  The  captains  do  very  little  but  steer  the 
canoe,  and  attend  to  the  wants  of  the  person  who  employs  them.  Every 
man  attends  to  his  duty  according  to  the  usages  of  their  service.  They 
take  turns  at  cooking  or  bailing  out  the  boat,  and  while  one  or  two 


308 


FLOOD. 


secure  the  canoe,  a number  of  others  run  up  to  the  wocds  and  bring 
fuel  for  a fire,  and  cut  cane  for  the  house.  While  one  cook  fetches  water, 
another  breaks  out  from  a platform  in  the  canoe  their  provisions  for 
supper. 

As  they  all  sat  joking  about  the  arrieros,  while  they  smoke  tobacco, 
they  laugh  at  the  Quichua  Indians  they  saw  at  Vinchuta,  with  the 
arrieros,  chewing  coca  leaves  “ like  horses,”  as  they  said. 

At  midnight  the  captain  called  me,  speaking  in  the  Canichana  lan- 
guage, which  I could  not  understand,  however;  when  a man  is  called  up 
in  the  silence  of  night  in  such  a wild  country  as  this,  he  soon  gains  his 
feet 

We  found  that  the  storm  on  the  mountains  had  flooded  the  river;  the 
canoe  floated  in  close  to  my  bed,  which  was  gathered  before  the  flood 
passed  over  the  spot,  where  a few  moments  before  we  were  sleeping.  As 
the  river  was  rising  very  fast,  we  were  obliged  to  embark  or  be  driven 
into  the  cane  brakes,  which  is  the  bed  of  the  tigers,  who  growl  if  disturbed 
by  gentlemen  at  night. 

We  all  took  our  seats  in  the  canoe  and  slept  sitting,  as  well  as  the 
musquitoes  would  let  us.  The  bow  was  made  fast  to  the  root  of  a tree, 
which  was  fastened  to  the  bottom  by  its  branches. 

These  Indians  are  very  careful  people,  constantly  on  the  look-out. 
We  were  aroused  from  a sound  sleep  in  a moment  by  these  watchful 
fellows.  Had  the  crew  been  an  inexperienced  one,  the  canoe  might 
have  been  carried  off  by  the  flood  and  we  left  in  the  canebrake.  The 
Indians  expected  a freshet.  In  the  evening  they  carried  our  cooking 
utensils  far  from  the  boat  to  the  most  elevated  part  of  the  beach,  which 
was  not  highest  near  the  bank.  When  the  flood  came,  the  w'ater 
passed  between  us  and  the  bank,  leaving  us  on  a sand  island,  which 
was  afterwards  completely  overflowed. 

At  daylight  the  Indians  begin  at  the  paddles.  They  work  best  early 
in  the  mornings  and  in  the  evenings. 

As  we  moved  slowly  down  stream,  rain  began  to  fall ; the  winds 
were  variable.  Some  four  or  five  different  kinds  of  monkeys  kept  up 
an  excited  chattering.  An  awkward,  thick-set,  ugly,  bay-coated  fellow 
was  bellowing  out  a noise  not  unlike  that  made  by  a large  bullfrog. 
The  black  ring-tailed  squealed  as  he  scampered  off  among  the  tree-tops. 
The  little  white-whiskered  tribe  come  down  close  to  the  river-bank 
among  the  canes,  and  seem  quizzically  disposed  to  examine  the  char- 
acter of  the  craft  that  intruded  upon  their  morning  sports.  There  gees 
a chocolate-colored  little  family,  as  though  frightened  to  distraction. 
Richards  shouts  at  them  in  English,  and  the  Canichanas  roar  with 


BANKS  AND  CURRENTS. 


209 


laughter.  The  crew  desire  a ring-tailed  monkey  for  breakfast.  Their 
bows  and  arrows  lay  on  the  roof  of  the  cabin,  but  they  prefer  to  see  one 
fall  by  a shot  from  our  gun. 

The  captain  suddenly  called  to  the  men,  and  they  all  shouted.  Look- 
ing down  the  liver,  we  discovered  two  canoes  well  peopled,  working 
manfully  against  the  current  close  along  the  bank.  Canoes  going  down 
keep  in  mid-channel,  where  the  current  is  most  rapid.  These  canoes 
were  from  Trinidad  on  their  way  to  Vinchuta,  with  orders  from  the 
prefect  of  the  department  to  report  themselves  to  me  for  service  in  the 
expedition  as  soon  as  they  landed  their  cargo  of  cacao,  sugar,  and 
passengers. 

A basket  of  fine  oranges  was  passed  on  board  of  us,  the  compliment 
being  returned  in  biscuit.  Our  captain  received  news  of  some  men  he 
had  left  on  the  banks  of  the  river  with  small-pox. 

We  pushed  on  by  islands  in  the  stream.  Though  the  river  is  flooded, 
there  is  little  or  no  drift-wood.  Along  the  beach  large  trees  have  been 
left  as  the  rain-belt  passed  north.  These  trees  lay  on  the  inner  side  of 
the  turns  in  the  stream.  That  side  is  a flat  sand-beach,  while  the  long 
or  outer  side  of  the  turn  breaks  down  perpendicularly.  The  current  of 
the  river  strikes  the  bank ; the  drift-wood  beats  against  the  alluvial  soil ; 
undermines  the  forest  trees;  the  roots  are  washed  clean,  and  the  tops 
fall  down  into  the  river  ; their  branches  sink ; the  heavy  green  leaves  go 
to  the  bottom  loaded  with  mud ; become  entangled  or  anchored.  Drift- 
wood and  rubbish  collect  about  them  ; and  while  an  island  is  built  up 
on  the  small  frame-work  of  one  single  log  of  wood,  the  bank  gives  way 
for  the  river  to  pass  od. 

The  turns  in  this  stream  are  very  short.  We  are  at  one  time  heading 
northeast,  then  northwest,  and  often  southwest,  when  we  turn  round 
northeast  again.  The  distance  between  the  upper  and  lower  turns,  in 
a north  direction,  is  constantly  decreasing ; for  the  perpendicular  bank 
on  the  upper  turn  is  being'  dug  away  towards  the  north,  and  the  same 
bank  on  the  lower  turn  is  caving  in  on  the  south  side.  When  the  work 
is  done,  the  upper  waters  flow  straight  through  to  the  lower ; and  as 
the  river  grows  older,  like  a well-drilled  soldier,  it  straightens. 

The  southwest  turn  is  deserted  by  the  waters,  and  the  bed  of  the 
river  lies  uncovered,  and  becomes  a proof  to  us  that,  while  rivers  travel, 
they  do  not  always  sleep  on  the  same  side  of  their  bed,  but  shift  from 
one  to  the  other,  as  suits  their  convenience.  The  speed  of  the  current 
of  the  river,  after  it  has  straightened  itself  through  the  land,  instead  of 
winding  down,  as  the  llama  descends  the  side  of  a mountain,  appears  to 
us  the  same.  That  the  older  the  river  grows  the  more  rapid  the  current. 
14 


210 


SNAGS  AND  SAWYERS. 


would  be  a work  directly  in  opposition  to  the  natural  purposes  of  navi- 
gation, for  which  it  was  intended. 

As  the  upper  country  wears  away,  and  the  heavy  load  of  earth  is 
carried  down  towards  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the  head  of  the  stream  is 
deepening,  and  being  constantly  cut  down  towards  a level  with  the 
bottom,  which  is  filling  up  at  its  mouth.  This  will  be  best  explained 
by  the  sounding-line,  cast  from  a vessel  entering  the  mouth  of  a river. 
The  pilot  is  taken  on  board  to  carry  the  ship  safely  over  the  bar,  or  that 
bank  of  earth  which  has  been  carried  down  from  the  head  of  the  streams 
and  deposited  at  the  liver’s  mouth.  As  the  ship  crosses  this  shoal,  the 
man  at  the  lead-line  calls  deeper  and  deeper  soundings  as  he  enters  the 
river.  He  will  continue  to  do  so  some  distance  up.  From  this  point 
back  to  the  bar,  the  bottom  of  the  river  is  an  inclined  plane,  sloping 
from  the  edge  of  the  sea  towards  the  mountains,  down  to  the  last  deep 
soundings  of  the  leadsman,  from  which  place  to  the  ocean  the  river 
may  be  said  to  be  running  up  hill ; a hill  made  by  its  own  action,  and 
which  is  stretching  farther  and  farther  up  stream. 

We  find  some  snags  and  sawyers  in  the  channel  that  should  be  cleared 
out  to  make  this  river  in  a condition  for  steamboat  navigation. 

As  rve  descend,  the  Chapare  widens  in  some  places  two  hundred  yards, 
and  from  two  and  a half  to  three  fathoms  water.  The  river  has  risen  three 
feet  by  rains  in  the  up  country,  though  the  current  remains  about 
the  same,  which  is  not  half  the  rate  of  the  Gulf  stream  between  the 
Florida  reefs  and  the  Bahama  banks. 

After  paddling  from  daylight  until  9 a.  m.  the  crew  were  ready  for 
breakfast.  Mamore  sported  over  the  beach.  We  made  after  ducks, 
geese,  and  wild  turkeys  as  the  only  safety-valve  to  our  boiling  pot.  The 
beautiful  pink  and  white  spoon-bill  skims  the  insects  from  the  surface 
of  the  river,  while  the  proud-looking  but  homely  tall  white  cranes 
survey  us  like  some  bodies  with  very  stiff  shirt  collars.  Temperature 
of  the  river  water,  74°;  air,  75°;  and  wet  bulb,  74°. 

We  have  been  unfortunate  at  fishing.  As  the  Indians  pay  no  attention 
to  it  just  here,  we  are  inclined  to  believe  there  are  few  fish,  while  in  the 
rocky  formation  we  found  the  Indians  pursuing  them.  There  the  water 
is  not  so  muddy  as  here.  In  Lake  Titicaca  the  most  fish  are  found  on 
the  east  side  of  the  lake,  where  the  water  was  limpid.  We  found  more 
fish  at  the  southern  end  of  that  lake  when  the  waters  were  settled  than 
at  the  north,  where  they7-  come  in  turbid. 

The  air  at  night  seems  to  be  filled  with  musquitoes  and  bats ; by 
daylight  birds  appear  in  proportion.  Thousands  of  parrots  keep  the 
woods  in  a constant  din. 


BARIC  CLOTH. 


211 


The  forest  trees  decrease  in  size  and  thickness ; as  we  descend  the 
canebrake  takes  their  place.  Some  of  the  logs  on  the  beach  and  snags 
in  the  stream  are  larger  than  those  we  generally  see.  These  large  trees 
are  found  in  the  upper  forests  as  the  exception  rather  than  the  rule. 

The  general  course  of  the  Chapare  is  north ; its  bottom  is  sandy 
and  muddy.  There  are  no  streams  flowing  into  it,  nor  are  there  any 
appearance  of  beds  of  streams  to  be  filled  in  the  rainy  season.  We 
judged,  therefore,  the  country  on  both  sides  of  it,  as  far  as  we  have  come 
upon  it,  is  a dead  level. 

After  breakfast  the  men  entered  the  woods,  cut  down  some  trees, 
stripped  off  the  bark  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  long  and  two  feet  wide, 
rolled  it  and  brought  it  on  board. 

The  common  percussion  lock  shot-gun  is  the  proper  arm  for  the 
traveller  in  this  country ; the  shot  will  keep  him  supplied  with  game. 
In  case  of  necessity,  a ball  carried  in  the  pocket  can  be  slipped  in  over 
the  shot,  and  answers  all  purposes,  as  the  ball  does  execution  much 
farther  than  an  Indian’s  arrow.  Tha  most  serviceable  and  important 
arms  are  double-barrelled  shot-gun  and  a five-chambered  revolver  of 
Colt’s. 

The  men  pull  irregularly.  When  they  pull  a moderate  stroke,  by  our 
log  they  make  about  two  miles  per  hour ; but  going  with  the  current 
they  only  pull  half  the  time,  because  on  their  upward  passage  they  are 
obliged  to  pull  incessantly,  except  when  they  stop  for  breakfast,  or  for 
the  night.  The  down  trip  is  the  resting  one.  They  work  hard  when 
they  meet  with  obstructions,  and  overcome  the  difficulties.  When  they 
find  things  in  their  favor,  they  slide  through  them  as  easily  as  possible. 

After  supper  they  commenced  manufacturing  bark  cloth  by  the  light 
of  the  fire.  The  end  of  the  piece  of  bark  was  laid  over  the  end  of  a 
smoothly-barked  log,  and  they  commenced  beating  upon  it  with  mallets, 
beginning  at  the  corner  and  striking  diagonally  the  piece  to  the 
middle,  where  the  mallet  was  turned  to  the  same  angle  at  the  other 
corner.  They  beat  the  bark  regularly  along.  The  fibres  spread  out,  and 
the  piece  two  feet  wide  was  beaten  out  one  foot  more,  to  the  thickness  of 
stout  pilot  cloth.  After  all  is  beaten  out,  it  is  rolled  up.  The  cloth  is 
afterwards  spread  out  in  the  sun  to.dry ; the  sap  which  has  been  so  thor- 
oughly pressed  out  from  among  the  fibres  by  the  beating,  soon  becomes 
dissipated  by  the  sun,  and  the  cloth  is  left  with  quite  a woolly  feel,  and 
is  painted  in  figures  to  suit  the  fancy  of  the  wearer.  By  his  own  pecu- 
liar process  it  is  cut  out  to  form  a very  simple  garment,  and  the  Indian 
is  dressed  in  a fancy-colored  shirt,  which  reaches  below  his  knees. 
This,  with  a hat  of  grass  from  the  river-bank,  is  his  wardrobe,  except  an 


212 


PICK  UP  THE  SICK. 


extra  shirt  of  foreign  manufactured  cotton,  worn  in  the  heat  of  the  day 
when  not  at  work,  or  in  the  evening  when  the  musauitoes  are  trouble- 
some. The  bark  cloth  is  most  frequently  used  at  night,  when  they 
particularly  protect  themselves.  In  the  middle  of  the  day  they  take 
off  their  clothes,  carefully  fold  them  up,  and  place  them  aside  until  they 
are  required.  When  it  rains  very  heavily  they  always  undress,  but  as 
soon  as  the  storm  is  over,  or  after  the  weather  has  been  unpleasant  for 
some  time,  and  the  air  becomes  cold,  they  dress  again.  They  undress 
while  at  their  seats  in  the  canoe.  As  soon  as  we  stop  to  breakfast, 
every  man  puts  on  his  shirt  before  he  leaves  the  boat ; the  captains 
always  wear  their  clothes.  The  men  seem  to  be  very  careful  about  the 
temperature  at  night.  I have  seen  them  put  one  shirt  over  another,  and 
double  their  garments. 

May  28,  1852. — The  night  was  cloud}’,  and  morning  foggy.  At 
daylight  we  were  under  weigh  again,  after  sleeping  comfortably  in  the 
woods  on  the  bank,  which  varies  its  height  from  four  to  five  feet. 
During  the  night  the  river  rose  three  feet  and  fell  again  one.  A short 
distance  below  we  ran  into  a canebrake,  and  there,  to  our  astonishment, 
stood  three  men  belonging  to  this  crew.  The  poor  creatures  had  been 
here  seventeen  days,  with  the  small  pox.  A little  shelter  of  canes 
shaded  them  from  the  heat  of  the  sun,  but  rain  beat  in  upon  them  as 
they  lay  helpless  on  beds  of  green  leaves,  with  no  one  to  attend  them. 
A knife  was  their  only  protection  from  the  savage  tiger,  unless  the 
stench  from  the  disease  kept  wild  animals  at  a distance. 

Their  faces  brightened  as  they  saw  their  friends;  but  there  were  only 
three.  Where  was  the  fourth,  inquired  the  crew?  Their  answer  was, 
that  during  the  fever,  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  he  had  rushed  into  the 
river  ; they  heard  a splash  and  never  saw  their  companion  after;  he  was 
carried  down  the  stream  by  the  current  and  drowned. 

One  of  them  was  still  quite  sick;  the  others  could  work.  Their  usual 
seats  were  in  the  after  part  of  the  canoe,  but  as  the  odor  from  their 
bodies  was  great,  I sent  them  as  far  forward  as  they  could  go.  One  of 
them,  called  the  padre  of  the  crew,  became  very  much  affronted  at  this 
order,  and  was  disposed  to  disobey  it,  but  the  captain  insisted,  and  he 
moved.  His  duties  were  lighter  were  he  was  sent,  and  there  he  was  not 
so  confined  among  us  and  the  men.  The  idea  of  all  being  afflicted  with 
the  small  pox  in  this  little  canoe,  was  an  unpleasant  one.  We  were  in 
constant  expectation  of  seeing  some  others  taken  sick. 

The  first  symptoms,  as  described  to  us,  were  fever  with  pain  in  the 
back,  which  lasts  three  days.  Then  the  breaking  out  commences,  with 
inflamed  lips.  At  the  end  of  six  days  the  disease  has  attained  its  height, 


RIVER  BANKS. 


213 


when  the  case  of  life  or  death  is  decided.  After  six  days  more  they 
begin  to  bathe,  if  they  are  well  enough.  This  is  the  course  the  distemper 
takes  when  the  patient  lies  out  in  the  woods,  without  medical  aid  or 
shelter  from  the  weather. 

One  of  them  had  employed  himself  in  making  a white  grass  hat,  after 
the  fashion  of  a Panama.  They  were  delighted  to  get  on  board,  and  as 
wre  paddled  along,  the  one  with  the  new  hat  was  telling  the  crew  what 
sort  of  a time  they  had.  The  schoolmaster  gave  us  the  amount  of  what 
he  could  understand.  The  crew  were  silent  while  Straw  Hat  was  speak- 
ing, but  kept  him  going  by  questions  when  he  held  up.  They  seemed 
very  much  affected,  and,  one  by  one,  gave  expression  to  his  feelings  at 
the  loss  of  the  missing  man. 

At  9 a.  m.  we  came  to,  as  usual,  for  breakfast.  Thermometer,  76°  ; 
wet  bull,  74°.  Temperature  of  water,  71°.  The  channel,  as  we  descend, 
is  less  obstructed  by  drift-wood,  snags,  and  sav'yers.  The  banks  are 
three  feet  high,  the  trees  smaller,  and  the  wind  light  from  the  north. 

We  passed  an  Indian  slung  up  in  a hamac  between  two  poles  stuck 
in  a mud  bank.  The  crew  called  to  him,  and  saw  the  hamac  move, 
which  was  our  only  sign  that  the  poor  creature  was  alive.  He  had  been 
left  with  the  small  pox  by  one  of  the  canoes  we  met.  The  flooded  river 
had  reached  the  under  part  of  the  hamac  last  night,  and  now  the  hot 
sun  was  shining  over  him.  The  old  captain  shook  his  head  when  we 
wanted  him  to  go  and  see  what  could  be  done  for  the  man.  The  crew 
pulled  rapidly  by. 

The  beach  here  is  mud.  On  the  shore  of  San  Mateo,  the  beach  was 
rocky,  with  large  and  small  round  stones,  such  as  are  used  for  paving 
streets.  After  we  got  below  the  rocky  formation  we  found  sand  beaches, 
white  and  grey.  The  banks  of  the  river  were  high.  Here  we  have  low 
banks,  and  run  out  of  the  sandy  region  into  the  mud.  For  the  first 
time  we  saw  an  alligator. 

The  waters  of  a stream,  as  it  increases  from  a mountain  torrent  to  a large 
river,  performs  the  labor  of  a system  of  sifters.  The  earth  and  rocks  are 
broken  away ; stone,  sand,  and  earth,  are  carried  down  the  side  of  the 
Andes  by  the  floods  in  the  rainy  season.  The  large  stones  are  thrown 
out  on  the  sides  of  the  stream,  as  it  reaches  the  base  of  the  mountains, 
while  the  sand  and  earth  pass  through.  Finally,  the  sand  is  separated 
and  deposited  in  another  place  below,  and  the  mud,  in  its  turn,  settles 
through  and  leaves  the  sifter  clean.  The  water  at  the  mouth  of  a 
muddy  stream  is  the  clearest.  When  river  water  meets  the  heavy  salt 
water  of  the  ocean,  the  river  current  comes  to  a stand,  and  it  is  there> 
while  standing  still,  that  dirt  settles  from  water  the  quickest ; there 


214 


CURRENTS  OF  THE  RIVER. 


careful  navigators  look  out  for  the  bar  across  the  mouth  of  the  river  as 
they  come  in  from  the  sea. 

The  muddy  -waters  of  rivers  seem  indisposed  to  mingle  with  the  salt 
waters  of  the  sea,  or  rather  the  salt  waters  of  the  ocean  turn  the  muddy 
waters  on  the  one  side  or  the  other  of  the  mouth  of  rivers,  until  they 
have  deposited  their  mud,  and  then  the  clear  new  water  cordially  joins 
the  older,  briny  ocean.  Where  a large  river  empties  into  the  sea,  if 
the  current  of  the  ocean  flows  parallel  to  the  coast,  and  strikes  the  river 
current  at  a right  angle,  all  the  mud  is  carried  with  the  ocean  current, 
and  is  quickly  placed  on  the  bottom.  By  the  arming  on  their  lead, 
navigators  may  tell,  at  night  or  in  a fog,  on  which  side  of  the  mouth  of 
the  river  they  are  as  they  near  the  coast,  provided  they  study  the 
ocean  currents.  This  is,  however,  not  always  the  case.  An  ocean  cur- 
rent, sweeping  by  the  mouth  of  a navigable  river,  may  not  have  suffici- 
ent force  to  be  of  this  service  to  the  mariner;  but  it  is  the  case  in  a very 
important  river  on  this  continent.  Where  sand  is  found  on  the  south, 
and  mud  on  the  north  side  of  the  outlet,  the  former  is  washed  from  the 
bottom  of  the  sea,  the  latter  comes  down  from  the  highlands,  and  is 
carried  out  by  the  river. 

While  floods  are  constantly  shifting  the  soil  from  the  mountains  to 
the  low  grounds,  and  the  land  is  pushed  out  into  the  sea,  its  waves  are 
regularly  heaving  back  all  the  earth  which  has  gotten  over  the  shore 
line.  Between  the  currents  of  rivers  and  the  waves  of  the  sea,  the  earth 
is  found  growing.  * 

We  encamped  for  the  night  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  where  the 
thick  forest  trees  prevented  my  getting  latitude  by  the  stars.  This  is  the 
first  clear  night  we  have  had  for  a long  time.  T doubt,  even  if  the 
branches  of  the  trees  were  out  of  the  way,  if  the  swarms  of  musquitoes 
would  allow  me  to  observe.  Bichards  generally  stands  by  with  a bush 
when  the  sand- flies  or  musquitoes  are  troublesome,  but  they  bite  through 
the  holes  in  a man’s  boot  in  spite  of  his  stockings. 

We  entered  the  woods  some  distance  with  the  gun,  just  before  dark, 
and  found  that  as  we  left  the  river  the  trees  became  smaller,  and  in  some 
cases  the  land  was  even  now  covered  with  water,  long  grass,  and  cane- 
brakes. 

The  banks  of  rivers  that  flow  through  alow,  flat,  newdy-made  soil,  are 
thrown  up  high  by  deposits,  so  much  so  that  the  surface  of  the  water, 
at  times,  is  above  the  general  level  of  the  country  near  it.  When  the 
river  rises,  it  breaks  over  the  banks  and  floods  the  back  lands. 

The  largest  forest  trees  are  found  immediately  on  the  banks ; these 
trees  are  most  frequently  undermined  and  carried  down  stream  by  the 


PRAYER  IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 


215 


currents.  It  -will  not  do  to  judge  of  the  general  character  of  a country 
by  the  size  of  the  trees  found  driving  out  of  the  mouth  of  a river.  When 
the  first  navigators  on  the  Amazon  saw  great  logs  floating  out  of  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  in  whose  tributaries  we  are,  they  called  it  “Madeira.” 
This  fact  set  us  all  looking  about  for  the  largest  trees  in  the  world,  but 
they  are  not  to  be  found  here. 

After  supper  the  crew  knelt  by  the  light  of  the  moon  in  prayer. 
“Padre”  gave  out  a hymn,  and  they  all  sang  according  to  the  teachings 
of  the  Catholic  church.  The  scene  was  a solemn  one.  Their  voices  echoed 
over  the  waters  of  the  river,  and  through  the  woods  to  the  listening  wild 
beasts  of  the  wilderness.  Dressed  in  white  cotton  “camisas,”  they 
kneeled  down  with  faces  up,  praying  with  hat  in  hand.  We  were  able 
to  look  at  their  countenances,  which  were  grave  and  serious,  with  an 
expression  of  truthfulness  and  honest  devotion. 

The  prayers  of  the  evening  being  over,  the  captain,  a tall,  well-built, 
noble-looking  old  Indian,  stood  up  and  made  a speech  to  the  others  who 
lay  upon  the  hairy  side  of  raw  hides  on  the  ground.  It  was  an  obituary 
address  of  some  length  for  the  lost  member  of  their  canoe.  This  fine 
featured  Indian  had  naturally  the  powers  of  an  orator;  he  was  fluent 
and  spoke  fast.  When  he  reached  the  winding  up  of  his  harangue, 
he  was  overcome  by  his  feelings,  and  speaking  of  the  unhappy  news  they 
were  called  upon  to  convey  to  the  mother  and  widow,  he  shed  tears. 
His  manly  arm  was  reached  out  to  point  towards  the  paddle  of  the  lost 
man,  as  the  last  and  only  token  left  b\»tiie  father  to  the  son. 

When  the  captain  finished,  they  all  uttered  “ buenos  npches”  to  each 
other,  and  we  slept  by  the  side  of  the  river. 

At  daybreak  in  the  morning,  the  monkeys  began  the  usual  chattering. 
W e were  struck  at  the  ease  with  which  an  ugly,  cheerful  Indian,  who 
looks  out  for  snags  in  the  bow,  and  is  generally  laying  on  his  belly  keep- 
ing watch  ahead,  repeated  English  words  after  Richards.  The  English 
language,  the  schoolmaster  decided,  came  much  more  easy  to  these  people 
than  Spanish.  “ Nig,”  as  Richards  called  him,  was  the  droll  one  of  the 
crew.  He  pronounced  clearly  each  word  as  it  was  spoken  to  him  ; and 
yet  this  man  was  one  of  those  who  could  not  speak  Spanish,  generally 
considered  the  most  easy  to  learn.  The  language  of  these  Indians 
sounds  like  German.  The  Yuracares  speak  fast  and  constantly,  like  the 
French.  The  Aymara  has  the  sound  of  English  more  than  any.  The 
Quicbua,  both  in  tone  and  notes  of  the  words  corresponds  to  the  Welsh 
or  Irish,  which  I have  heard  spoken. 

The  Indians  beached  the  canoe,  and  for  the  first  time  had  a general 
bath.  As  we  passed  a cross  standing  on  the  bank,  the  crew  took  off 


216 


LASSOING  AN  ALLIGATOR. 


their  hats ; this  was  out  of  respect  for  a friend  who  had  been  buried 
there.  We  passed  several  of  these  wooden  crosses ; near  some  of  them 
plantain  trees  were  growing. 

The  wind  is  very  light,  and  generally  from  the  north;  the  current 
of  air  seems  to  follow  the  bed  of  the  river  up-stream.  The  river  widens 
to  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  We  find  the  current  by  holding  on  to 
the  end  of  a snag  in  mid-channel  while  we  heave  the  current  log.  We 
have  no  anchor  and  chain. 

The  Indians  logk  on  with  some  astonishment  at  our  work;  and  as 
Richards  was  drawing  in  his  sounding-line,  with  a two-pound  lead  upon 
it,  “Padre”  very  knowingly  informed  him  it  was  useless  to  attempt  to 
catch  fish  in  that  way  in  the  Cbapare  \ We  were  sorry  to  find  the 
“Padre”  was  the  ill-natured  one,  and  frequently  quarrelled  with  the 
men  during  the  day.  He  spoke  Spanish,  and  always  addressed  us  in 
that  language.  The  schoolmaster  said,  when  an  Indian  became  the 
leading  man  in  religious  pretension,  he  invariably  was  quarrelsome  and 
overbearing  in  his  manners  towards  others,  who  seem  to  treat  him  with 
contempt,  except  when  called  upon  for  ceremonial  formalities. 

We  had  seen  cattle  lassoed  on  the  pampas  of  Buenos  Ayres,  and  boys 
in  Mexico  practise  the  art  upon  chickens,  but  to-day  “ Nig,”  our  bow- 
man, gave  us  a treat. 

A good  sized  alligator  lay  by  the  mud  beach,  with  his  head  just  on 
the  surface  of  the  water.  The  canoe  was  run  into  the  canebrake  some 
fifty  yards  below.  One  man  Cut  a long  cane,  while  “ Nig,”  modestly 
smiling,  with  eyes  shut  and  mouth  open,  drew  a hide  rope  from  under 
part  of  the  baggage.  Making  a noose  in  one  end,  he  hung  it  on  the 
end  of  the  pole,  and  wound  the  rope  round  to  the  other  end,  so  that  he 
could  grasp  both  pole  and  rope  in  one  hand.  He  pulled  off  his  camisa, 
lowered  himself  into  the  river,  where  he  could  walk  on  the  bottom  with 
his  chin  just  out  of  water.  The  noosenvas  carried  by  the  pole  near  the 
surface,  and  “ Nig  ” slowly  moved  towards  the  alligator,  who  seemed 
to  be  somewhat  doubtful  of  results.  After  watching  “Nig’s”  eye  for  a 
while,  he  disappeared  ; by  the  motion  of  the  water  it  was  evident  he 
was  swimming  away.  The  men  laughed,  but  “Nig”  stood  perfectly 
still ; the  stream  rolled  on  in  silence.  In  a moment  the  alligator’s  head 
appeared  again  nearly  in  the  same  place,  only  he  held  it  higher,  as  he 
attentively  looked  “ Nig”  full  in  the  face.  He  moved  slowly  and  stead- 
ily towards  the  monster  of  the  river,  and  put  the  noose  over  the  alliga- 
tor’s head;  when  he  jumped,  it  looked  as  though  he  wanted  to  jump 
through  the  noose.  “ Nig  ” let  go  the  pole,  and  in  doing  so  lost  the  line 
also  ; and  while  the  alligator  swam  off  with  one  end  of  the  rope,  “ Nig” 


LASSOING  AN  ALLIGATOR. 


217 


swam  after  bis  end,  to  the  great  amusement  of  our  party.  “ Nig 
reached  the  line,  and  putting  it  over  his  shoulder  walked  up  the  beach. 
As  the  alligator  was  led  to  the  edge  of  the  water,  “ Nig  ” stood  grinning 
at  one  end  of  the  line  on  shore,  while  the  alligator  lay  quietly  awaiting 
a ball  from  my  gun  or  a stroke  from  the  hatchet  in  the  hand  of  a man. 
But  we  were  disappointed  ; “ Nig”  had  no  weight  to  sling  to  the  under 
part  of  the  noose  to  keep  it  under  water,  so  when  the  alligator  jumped 
he  caught  the  noose  in  his  mouth,  and  while  “Nig”  was  grinning,  his 
eyes  closed  with  delight,  the  alligator  cut  the  rope  and  swam  away. 

There  are  parts  of  the  alligator  near  the  back  bone  which  the  Indians 
eat.  This  is  the  only  manner  in  which  they  take  alligators  here  ; their 
arrows  will  not  enter  the  scales,  which  often  turn  a rifle  ball.  I have 
seen  a boat’s  crew  in  Mexico  fire  a volley  of  musket  balls  into  an  alli- 
gator and  not  kill  him.  The  alligators  here  are  much  smaller  than 
those  found  on  the  rivers  in  Tobasco.  The  Indians  make  buttons,  beads, 
fancy  birds,  and  animals,  of  their  teeth. 


218 


MOUTH  OF  CHIMORE  RIVER. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Pass  tbe  mouth  of  Chimore  river — White  cranes — Rio  Mamorc — Woodbridge’s 
Atlas — Night  watch — “ Masi  ” guard-house — Pampas — Ant-houses — Cattle — 
Religion — Sugar-cane — Fishing  party  of  Mojos  Indians — River  Ybare — Pampas 
of  Mojos — Pasture  lands — City  of  Trinidad — Prefect — Housed  in  Mojos — Don 
Antonio  de  Barras  Cordoza — Population  of  the  Beni — Cotton  manufactures — 
Productions — Trade — Don  Antonio’s  Amazonian  boats — Jesuits — Languages — 
Natural  intelligence  of  the  aborigines — Paintings — Cargoes  of  foreign  goods 
in  the  plaza. 

We  ran  down  the  river  by  the  light  of  the  moon  ; sounding  in  from 
three  and  a half  fathoms  to  four  ; half  the  crew  pulled  at  a time,  until 
we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Chimore  river,  which  empties  into  the 
Chapare  from  the  south.  We  were  obliged  to  come  to  as  the  morning 
became  cloudy  and  dark,  which  made  it  unsafe  for  us  to  pass  through 
the  drift  wood  flowing  from  the  Chimore. 

Canoes  ascend  the  Chimore  in  the  rainy  season  to  the  town.  Near 
its  mouth,  the  river  resembles  the  Chapare  in  width,  color  of  water,  and 
swiftness  of  current ; but,  from  what  I can  learn,  the  Chapare  is  the 
largest  stream,  and  deeper  at  the  head. 

The  rains  have  been  to  the  Southeast ; therefore  we  find  more  drift- 
wood coming  out  of  the  Chimore  than  we  have  in  the  Chapare. 

The  country  at  their  junction  is  all  low,  uninhabited,  and  unfinished. 
The  current  of  the  Chapare  continues  the  same  below  the  junction. 
Unless  we  had  seen  the  Chimore  enter,  we  should  probably  not  have 
known  that  the  quantity  of  water  was  nearly  double,  the  width  of  the 
river  and  soundings  being  the  same. 

Lightning  flashes  to  the  south  during  the  night;  and,  as  the  clouds 
thicken,  thunder  roars  among  the  distant  mountains. 

May  30,  1852. — We  have  a strong  wind  from  the  east  this  morning, 
with  light  rain  and  thunder  to  the  south.  The  drops  are  small  com- 
pared with  those  which  beat  against  the  Andes  in  the  boisterous 
region. 

Files  of  white  cranes  of  equal  size  stand  in  good  order  on  the  mud- 
beach,  with  a tall  one  at  each  end  of  the  file,  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
individuals,  like  sergeants.  As  we  approach,  a sergeant  steps  proudly 
out,  gives  orders  by  a “quack,”  and  the  party  either  faces  back  over 
the  mud-beach  into  a hollow,  or  flics  down  the  river.  The  manners 


RIO  MAMORE. 


219 


•• 


and  habits  of  these  birds  are  very  amusing.  A large  crane  walks 
through  the  drizzle,  holding  his  head  and  body  as  straight  as  possible, 
which  gives  him  the  air  of  an  elderly  gentleman  leisurely  walking  out 
for  his  health,  with  hands  crossed  under  his  coat-tail. 

We  entered  the  river  Mamore,  which,  at  Cochabamba,  is  called 
“Grande;”  and  where  the  Chapare  empties  into  it,  is  named  Rio  “Sara.” 
It  seems  the  inhabitants  upon  the  banks  of  this  great  stream  call  it  by 
a name  to  suit  their  own  neighborhood.  Those  who  lived  on  its  more 
slender  parts  called  it  “Grande,”  probably  without  knowing  where  it 
flowed,  or  if  it  was  a tributary  to  the  Paraguay  or  Madeira ; while 
those  inhabiting  the  lower  waters  changed  the  name  again  and  again. 
“Grande”  is  the  Spanish,  and  “Mamore”  the  Indian  name. 

We  find  it  interesting  to  see  how  the  people  on  the  Andes  supposed 
the  rivers  of  South  America  flowed  towards  the  Atlantic.  The  Beni, 
for  instance,  is  represented  as  the  source  of  the  Amazon,  while  it  is 
only  the  second  tributary  of  the  Madeira.  The  headwaters  of  the  south- 
ern tributaries  of  the  Amazon,  over  which  we  passed,  are  laid  down  in 
ordinary  maps  too  far  to  the  westwaid.  They  are  made  to  appear  to 
the  student  too  near  to  the  Pacific;  there  is  a mountainous  strip  of 
land  between  the  headwaters  of  the  Amazon  and  the  Pacific  shore. 

The  long  travel  of  Lieutenant  Smyth,  of  the  royal  navy,  before  he 
reached  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Maranon  from  Lima,  and  the  still 
longer  journey  taken  by  Lieutenant  Maw,  royal  navy,  over  the  moun- 
tains from  Truxillo,  in  Peru,  to  the  same  point,  show  that  these  officers 
did  not  find  the  head  of  navigation  as  soon  as  was  generally  supposed 
they  would,  by  the  appearance  of  the  maps  they  had  studied  in  1829. 

Not  only  the  Beni,  but  the  Mamore,  is  made,  by  recent  publications, 
to  flow  into  the  Amazon,  not  through  the  Madeira,  but  by  an  imaginary 
course,  through  a ridge  of  mountains,  distinctly  laid  down.  This  map 
represents  the  Paraguay  and  Madeira  both  flowing  from  the  same 
source  in  Brazil,  while  the  source  of  the  Madeira  is  on  the  Andes,  in 
Bolivia.  Some  credit  is  due  to  Mr.  Woodbridge  for  endeavors,  twenty- 
four  years  ago,  to  lay  before  the  schools  a map,  which  is  useful  and 
truthful,  with  only  such  errors  as  are  consequent  upon  an  existing  want 
of  information. 

The  Mamore,  at  the  junction  with  the  Chapare,  being  the  smaller  of 
the  two  streams,  surprised  us ; but  the  rainy  region  explained  the  differ- 
ence. All  the  tributaries  of  the  Chapare  are  within  the  rain-belt,  while 
most  of  those  forming  the  Mamore,  above  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra,  are 
beyond  the  rain-belt. 

Canoes  ascend  the  Mamore  to  the  mouth  of  the  Piray  river,  and  up 


220 


NIGHT-WATCH. 


that  stream  to  Puerte  de  Jeres,  or  “Quatro  Ojos,”  as  it  is  more  fre- 
quently called.  Thence  travellers  mount  on  horseback,  by  a road 
through  the  forest,  to  the  city  of  Santa  Cruz,  where  the  Mojos  cacao  is 
sent  to  Market.  During  the  latter  part  of  the  dry  season,  in  the  month 
of  November,  travellers  from  Trinidad  to  Santa  Cruz  go  on  horseback 
entirely  through  the  country,  in  preference  to  •poling  and  paddling 
against  a rapid  current,  which  in  the  descent  often  endangers  the  safety 
of  the  cargo  by  upsetting  the  canoes  against  snags. 

The  banks  of  the  Mamore  are  the  same  as  the  Chapare.  Our  sound- 
ings are  now  thirty  feet,  and  the  Mamore  has  a width  of  four  hundred 
yards  below  the  junction ; this  stream  flows  in  a northerly  direction. 
The  current  of  the  Mamore  runs  at  the  same  speed  as  the  Chapare — one 
mile  and  a half  per  hour. 

While  the  porpoise  hows  his  back  in  the  air  above  the  surface  of  the 
river,  and  spouts  like  the  porpoise  of  the  sea,  small  parties  of  seal  whirl 
round  and  bark  at  us  daringly.  The  seals  are  very  small ; not  near  so 
large  as  those  we  have  seen  on  the  river  La  Plata. 

At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  '73°;  wet  bulb,  T 0° ; river  water,  75°.  As 
we  passed  near  the  perpendicular  bank  a moderate-sized  tree  came  down 
with  a terrible  crash  just  before  us.  The  bank  broke  and  the  current 
washed  away  the  earth,  and  we  left  the  tree  struggling  with  the  river, 
which  in  time  will  either  give  way  and  follow  us  down,  or  stand  stub- 
born as  the  foundation  of  another  island. 

We  met  with  a fishing  party  of  Indians  in  a canoe,  with  two  women 
as  cooks  for  twelve  men.  As  we  had  been  feasting  on  wild  turkeys, 
ducks,  and  geese,  we  offered  to  purchase  fish,  but  they  were  as  much  in 
want  as  we,  and  showed  a disposition  to  keep  at  a distance — very  likely 
on  account  of  our  cases  of  small-pox. 

The  river  was  so  clear  of  snags  and  drift-wood  that  the  men  wanted 
to  continue  on  all  night,  which  promised  to  be  clear,  though  the  day 
was  wet  and  unpleasant,  with  an  easterly  storm,  which  seemed  rather 
to  encourage  the  musquito  tribe.  We  therefore  had  dinner  cooked  early. 

After  the  sun  went  down  the  bright  moon  lit  up  our  water-path 
through  the  wilds.  The  earth  seemed  asleep  as  we  watched  the  nodding 
Indians  at  their  paddles,  which  hung  dripping  over  the  sides  of  the 
canoe.  At  one  moment  a rustling  noise  was  heard  among  the  canes. 
We  swept  close  in  towards  the  bank  by  the  current.  The  burning 
piece  of  wood  which  the  old  captain  kept  on  his  part  of  the  boat  dis- 
turbed the  black  tiger,  or  a serpent  slipped  softly  from  a cluster  of  canes 
into  the  water  to  avoid  us.  As  we  turn,  the  moon  shines  directly  up 
the  river,  and  the  sheet  of  water  appears  like  a silvery  way.  We  think 


DESCENDING  THE  RIVER  M A M 0 R E . Bolivia 


PAMPAS MASI  GUARD-HOUSE. 


221 


of  obstructions,  and  fear  we  are  not  going  fast  enough  to  see  the  glad 
waters  of  the  Atlantic. 

In  the  dead  of  night  the  owl  calls,  as  though  surprised  at  our  daring, 
and  a fish,  by  mistake,  jumped  into  the  boat.  As  it  flapped  its  tail  in 
the  water,  on  the  bottom  of  the  canoe,  every  Indian  was  roused  from 
his  sleep.  After  joking  awhile,  they  dipped  their  paddles  into  the 
stream,  and  away  we  went  again. 

Midnight  passed ; the  watch  was  called,  and  while  Richards  fought 
musquitoes,  the  first  watch  slept.  The  sounding  line  was  kept  going  by 
night  and  by  day ; the  turns  of  the  river  mapped  by  the  points  of  the 
compass ; the  distance  made  marked  down  at  the  end  of  each  day,  and 
all  the  streams  entering  the  one  we  navigate  carefully  drawn  in. 

May  31. — At  sunrise  we  ran  alongside  of  a perpendicular  bank  of 
red  and  blue  clay,  eighteen  feet  high ; by  steps  we  ascend  to  see  a great 
panrpa  stretching  out  before  us,  or  an  ocean  of  grasses,  herd-grass  from 
five  to  seven  feet  high,  gently  waving  to  and  fro  by  the  morning  breeze, 
which  came  from  the  east.  As  we  stood  upon  the  bank  the  sun  got  up 
behind  us;  we  looked  towards  the  west  over  the  bottom  of  the  Madeira 
Plate,  which  is  shallow  and  extensive. 

A shed  stands  upon  the  bank,  and  as  there  was  nothing  under  it,  we 
took  a well-beaten  path  leading  from  the  river,  and  walked  over  a level, 
among  ant  houses  built  five  feet  high  and  three  feet  in  diameter  at  the 
base,  made  of  clay  and  shaped  like  sugar  loaves. 

Tire  ants  ascend  to  the  tops  of  their  houses  when  the  pampa  becomes 
overflowed,  and  there  await  the  falling  of  the  waters.  This  pampa, 
however,  is  not  flooded  every  year,  and  we  have  pretty  certain  informa- 
tion from  the  ants  that  the  rise  is  never  as  much  as  five  feet.  Every 
house  is  exactly  the  same  height,  though  they  may  differ  a little  in 
thickness. 

We  came  to  a large  wooden  two-story  building,  the  “Masi”  guard 
and  custom-house,  at  which  all  traders  and  travellers  must  show  their 
passports  and  papers.  We  walked  up  the  wooden  steps  to  the  second 
floor,  to  call  upon  the  commander  of  the  station.  In  the  lower  story 
was  a sugar  mill,  and  we  found  the  commander  of  the  guard  in  bed 
groaning  with  stomach-ache  under  his  musquito  net.  He  seemed  glad 
to  see  us,  and  while  he  sat  up  in  his  night-cap  reading  our  papers,  we 
walked  out  on  the  balcony  to  look  round. 

To  the  north  wras  a row  of  small  trees  which  gave  the  pampas  the 
appearance  of  cleared  lands,  but  the  commander  came  out  and  explained 
to  us  that  those  trees  grew  immediately  on  the  bank  of  the  Secure  river, 
and  that  they  marked  out  for  me  the  true  course  of  that  stream  as  far 


222 


CATTLE  OF  THE  PAMPAS. 


as  I could  see,  showing  that  the  rivers  in  this  low  country  are  beautifully 
curtained  in  with  thick  foliage,  while  behind  the  curtain  is  a great  flat, 
an  extended  stage  on  which  wild  animals  roam.  The  tall  crane  stands 
admiring  his  reflected  whiteness  in  a pool  of  clear  water,  which  lies  like 
a mirror  on  the  bottom  of  this  magnificent  green  floor. 

The  lands  are  beautifully  hedged  in  by  the  line  of  forest  trees.  Man 
has  set  before  him  here  the  hedging  and  ditching  of  nature.  This 
pampa  looks  like  a great  pasture-field,  enclosed  by  the  Mamore  ditch 
on  the  south,  and  the  Secure  on  the  north.  Under  the  shade  of  those 
trees  stand  the  cattle  of  the  field.  They  have  gradually  clambered  over 
the  Cordilleras  from  the  flats  of  Guayaquil,  through  the  table  lands  of 
Oruro,  and  from  the  salt  district  of  Charcas.  The  creoles  drode  them 
down  by  the  side  of  the  Mamore  river,  and  let  them  out  into  the  grassy 
prairie  lands  of  Chiquitos  and  Mojos.  From  this  balcony  we  see  one 
Indian  holding  a calf,  while  another  milks  the  cow. 

When  the  cattle  came  among  the  Indians,  they  knew  not  what  to 
make  of  them.  There  were  no  such  animals  in  their  wild  lauds.  The 
fierce  tiger,  which  they  worshipped  along  with  the  poisonous  serpent, 
were  outdone.  The  cow  interfered  with  the  belief  they  previously  had 
that  the  largest  animals  were  God’s  favorites,  particularly  those  which 
had  the  greatest  means  for  active  aggression  or  self-defence. 

The  cow  helped  to  change  such  a religion.  She  was  larger  than 
either ; and  to  be  attacked  by  a bull  on  the  open  prairie  was  quite  as 
dangerous  as  the  tiger  or  the  serpent.  Great  horns  stood  out  boldly  in 
defence  of  a powerful  body. 

By  degrees  they  learned  that  she  neither  bit,  clawed,  or  stung  ; that 
she  carried  a bag  full  of  milk ; that  her  teeth  were  given  her  to  cut  the 
pampa  grass,  and  not  to  devour  the  flesh  of  a human  being.  That  she 
was  docile  and  friendly  to  man,  and  not  his  enemy.  The  Jesuits  taught 
the  Indians  how  to  milk  a cow,  and  how  to  use  its  milk.  They  soon 
learn  how  to  tend  cattle ; to  lasso  them  ; yoke  them  by  the  horns,  and 
fasten  long  poles  to  them,  so  that  they  might  drag  along  a bundle  of 
drift  wood  from  the  edge  of  the  river  to  the  middle  of  the  plain,  and  to 
give  up  their  first  impression  that  the  tail  rvas  the  most  appropriate  and 
convenient  part  of  the  animal  to  attach  the  sticks  of  fire  wood  to. 

In  this  way  they  kept  gentle  cattle  by  them,  while  herds  roamed 
through  the  pampas,  became  wild,  and  are  now  so  scattered  through  the 
lands  that  it  is  difficult  to  count  them. 

The  horse  travelled  the  same  way  from  Spain  with  the  horned  cattle. 
The  ancestors  of  the  five  mares  with  their  colts,  which  we  see  grazing 
before  us,  crossed  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  more  than  three  hundred  years 


SUGAR-CANE. 


223 


ago.  This  beautiful  and  useful  creature  caught  the  eye  of  the  Indian, 
but  as  he  had  never  seen  an  animal  fit  to  straddle  and  ride,  he  little 
knew  the  true  value  of  the  horse  who  fattened  on  the  pampa  grass. 
When  he  mounted  and  found  himself  flying  at  full  speed  across  the  plain, 
he  must  have  been  quite  as  much  pleased  with  the  invention  as  more 
civilized  people  are  with  the  movements  of  modern  machinery. 

The  introduction  of  these  animals  among  the  Indians  by  the  Spaniards 
had  a powerful  influence  over  them.  It  is  said  that  when  first  the  South 
American  Indians  looked  at  a man  on  horseback,  they  supposed  both  one 
animal,  and  it  was  not  until  they  saw  the  man  dismount  that  they 
knew  his  distinctness  from  the  horse. 

Accounts  have  been  written  of  an  Amazonian  race  of  wminen  defending 
their  country  with  bows  and  arrows  in  their  hands.  The  dress  of  the 
Indian  men  of  this  warm  climate  is  the  same  as  that  worn  by  the 
women.  The  Indians  use  bows  and  arrows  altogether.  It  seems  reason- 
able to  suppose  such  was  the  origin  of  these  stories. 

A few  Mojos  Indian  families  occupied  the  only  habitations  on  this 
pampa.  Around  the  bed-room  door  of  the  commander  were  very  light- 
colored  Indian  children.  One  of  the  several  dogs  running  about,  being 
impudent  to  Mamore,  received  a thorough  shaking. 

We  obtained  a large  bunch  of  plantains  and  bananas,  with  some 
yucas  and  jerked  beef,  and  a cow  was  milked  for  us.  As  we  were  from 
Cochabamba,  the  native  place  of  the  bald-headed  commander,  he  was 
exceedingly  kind  to  us,  hoped  we  would  come  back  and  remain  with 
him,  as  he  found  it  very  lonely  on  the  pampa.  He  says  it  is  very 
seldom  that  the  lands  are  completely  covered  with  water,  though  he  lives 
up-stairs  for  fear  he  might  be  caught  asleep.  Like  the  ants,  he  keeps 
in  the  upper  part  of  the  house  until  the  water  falls,  and  this  is  the  most 
elevated  land  in  the  neighborhood. 

On  the  wave  of  the  land  along  the  river  bank  the  Indians  are  en- 
couraged to  cultivate  sugar-canes. . The  government  has  put  up  a mill 
under  tbe  custom-house  for  the  accommodation  of  such  as  choose  to  pay 
contribution  in  sugar.  The  route  of  the  sugar-cane  was  originally  from 
China,  by  the  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  into  Brazil  at  Rio  Janeiro, 
thence  across  the  interior  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Paraguay  river, 
where  the  Mojos  Indians  got  it,  and  carried  it  up  stream  to  this  pampa, 
and  even  bore  it  to  Yuracares. 

The  best  sugar-cane  in  Peru,  it  is  said,  came  from  the  South  Pacific 
Islands.  So  did  that  of  Yungas,  which  adjoins  Mojos  at  the  base  of  the 
Andes  in  the  Madeira  Plate.  The  inhabitants  there  have  received  this 


224 


•SUGAR-CANE. 


plant  from  different  sides  of  their  continent,  and  the  sugar-cane  emigrants 
have  met  nearly  in  the  centre  of  it. 

The  sugar-canes  which  have  travelled  from  the  West  India  islands, 
over  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  into  Peru,  are  thought  not  to  be  of  as  good 
a quality  as  those  from  the  South  Pacific  islands.  We  suppose  this  is 
owing  to  the  difference  of  soil  and  climate.  The  best  sugar-canes  on 
the  plantations  in  South  Peru  come  from  the  Society  islands  on  a par- 
allel of  latitude  due  east  through  longitude.  The  plant  kept  in  nearly 
the  same  latitude  on  the  same  side  of  the  Equator.  The  line  of  longi- 
tude which  passes  through  the  Cuba  plantation,  runs  due  south  into  the 
Peruvian  field,  with  a great  change  of  latitude.  The  Cuba  plants,  in  20° 
north,  were  carried  through  35°  of  north  latitude,  from  near  the  Tropic 
of  Cancer  towards  Capricorn.  Yet,  from  personal  observation  while 
cruising  among  the  Pacific  islands,  the  richest  sugar-cane  and  the  most 
beautiful  white  sugar  was  produced  among  the  Sandwich  islands.  The 
midshipmen  of  our  mess  declared  they  never  saw  such  molasses  as  the 
caterer  purchased  at  Maui — it  was  like  honey. 

As  the  Island  of  Maui  is  in  the  same  latitude  as  the  Island  of  Cuba — 
both  near  the  Tropic  of  Cancer — we  judge  that  the  canes  of  Cuba  are 
not  less  sweet  than  the  canes  of  the  Society  islands,  until  after  they  are 
transplanted  into  South  Peru. 

The  Mojos  Indian  never  would  have  known  there  was  such  a plant  in 
the  world,  if  the  sugar-cane  had  not  been  carried  to  him.  He  does  not 
travel  abroad  himself,  but  remains  in  his  own  district,  as  the  wild  animals 
do,  living  upon  whatever  may  from  time  to  time  be  passed  over  into  his 
plate.  The  hand  that  brought  him  sugar  was  the  hand  of  the  Ruler  of 
the  winds — those  winds,  the  southeast  trades. 

The  old  Indian  seems  perfectly  comfortable  now  that  he  has  milk  and 
sugar.  If  he  was  wise  enough  to  know  anything  about  the  advantages 
of  commerce,  it  is  doubtful  how  far  he  would  exert  himself.  lie  is 
rather  an  indolent  fellow.  The  Indians  want  nothing  particularly; 
clothing  they  get  from  the  bark  of  the  tree,  or  the  produce  of  the  cotton 
plant.  Yuca  is  their  bread ; there  are  fish  in  the  stream,  and  beeves  on 
the  pampa ; coffee,  chocolate,  and  sugar. 

The  kind  old  commander  said  they  only  produced  a little  sugar  for 
house  use ; “ there  wjis  only  one  other  Creole  with  him ; he  had  no 
guard,  and  the  Indian  population  was  but  a handful.” 

There  was  a time  when  this  pampa  was  unfitted  for  man’s  habitation; 
when  the  water  lay  deep  over  the  land.  We  are  led  to  believe  that  the 
bottom  of  the  Madeira  Plate  was  a great  lake.  It  appears  to  us  like  the 


FISHING  PARTY  OF  MOJOS  INDIANS. 


225 


bed  of  an  uplifted  sheet  of  water.  Water  flows  into  it  all  round  the 
edge,  except  at  the  head  of  the  Madeira,  its  outlet  to  the  sea. 

All  the  streams  that  ilowi  from  the  mountains  are  confined  between 
high  banks;  the  water  is  deep;  cultivation  and  navigation  join  hands# 
Here  we  found  the  first  signs  of  trade  and  of  a friendly  exchange. 

We  floated  down  the  stream,  passing  the  mouth  of  the  Secure,  which 
was  two  hundred  yards  wide,  flowing  in  from  the  westward,  and  landed 
to  enjoy  breakfast.  The  disappointed  governor  distinguished  himself  this 
morning  by  making  excellent  coffee,  with  milk  which  we  brought  along 
in  an  earthen  pot,  manufactured  by  the  Indians  from  clay  of  the  pampa. 

On  the  sides  of  the  river  there  are  several  bays,  which  the  schoolmas- 
ter calls  “ Madres.”  Some  of  them  are  quite  large.  As  the  water  falls 
in  the  dry  season  these  madres  supply  the  river,  and  in  the  wet  season 
fill  up  again.  From  the  name  they  are  considered  mothers  to  the  river, 
from  which  it  obtains  sustenance  when  it  gets  dry. 

We  encamped  for  the  night  on  a sandy  beach,  from  which  I judge 
the  Secure  river  is  not  navigable  far  up,  and  that  the  distance  between 
its  mouth  and  the  rocky  formation  is  not  very  far.  The  lands  to  the 
west  of  the  mouth  of  the  Secure  are  wild  and  little  known.  Cattle  roam 
upon  the  plains,  and  the  cinchona  trees  grow  in  the  woods. 

We  found  a party  of  fourteen  men  and  boys  encamped  on  the  beach  . 
They  had  been  up  the  river  fishing  and  hunting.  A fire  was  built  by 
them  ; their  canoe  lay  by  the  shore,  and  their  white  cotton  hamacs  were 
slung  to  poles  stuck  in  the  beach  iD  a circle.  They  all  go  to  bed  by 
word  of  command,  otherwise  the  hamacs  would  all  come  down  by  the 
run.  They  hang  their  hamacs  out  where  the  night  breeze,  as  it  comes 
sweeping  up  the  river,  will  drive  the  musquitoes  away.  Near  the  trees 
they  are  very  troublesome,  and  in  the  bushes  insufferable. 

The  intelligent  bright  faces  of  the  boys  pleased  us.  They  looked  like 
little  girls  in  their  long  cotton  frocks  of  white,  standing  round  the  camp- 
fire watching  yucas  roasting.  The  youngsters  noticed  us  much  more 
than  the  men  of  the  party,  who  were  generally  from  twenty-four  to 
thirty  years  of  age.  These  were  Mojos  Indians,  from  the  town  of  Trin- 
idad. Our  Canichanas  crew  spoke  a different  language,  though  they 
only  live  a short  distance  apart  on  the  pampa.  The  Canichanas  came 
from  the  town  of  San  Pedro,  and  yet  these  people  do  not  understand  the 
language  of  each  other. 

When  our  men  landed,  I noticed  they  said  nothing  to  the  others. 
Our  fire  was  built  and  camping  ground  was  near  theirs,  but  the  Mojos 
boys  and  North  Americans  were  the  only  ones  disposed  to  be  sociable. 
Mamore  seemed  the  favorite  of  both  parties;  they  both  fed  him,  and  as 


226 


RIO  YBARfi. 


be  ran  back  and  forth,  receiving  kindness  from  all  sides,  the  dog  be- 
came the  cause  of  jealousy  between  the  two  crews. 

The  boys  had  little  bows  and  arrows  and  small  paddles,  but  they 
carried  no  game  or  fish — nothing  but  yuca'to  eat  and  water  to  drink. 
They  were  fat,  straight,  well-built  figures,  with  a clear  molasses-and- 
water-colored  skin.  When  they  smiled,  their  white  teeth  and  handsome 
black  eyes  gave  them  an  agreeable  and  healthful  appearance.  They 
were  washed  of  dirt  and  paint.  The  savage  custom  of  boring  great 
holes  in  their  ears  and  noses  had  been  cast  aside,  and  they  appeared 
neatly  in  simple  frock,  with  straw  hat,  bows  and  arrows.  The  dress 
is  certainly  an  awkward  one  for  a man,  but  it  is  a great  protection  from 
the  musquitoes,  while  it  keeps  off  the  sun  and  night  dews ; they  are 
cool  and  comfortable  also. 

The  ancient  bark  dress  seems  to  have  been  the  custom  all  through 
the  interior  of  this  plate.  The  Indians  of  the  lowlands  dress  in  bark 
and  cotton  cloth,  while  those  of  the  mountains  use  wool  and  the  skins 
of  animals.  Leather  is  best  in  a dry  climate  and  rawhide  in  a wet  one. 
Straw  hats  are  seen  in  the  truly  tropical  regions,  while  cloth  caps  and 
fur  hats  are  wanted  in  the  mountains  and  cold  countries.  Where  there 
are  the  greatest  diversities  of  climate,  there  are  required  the  largest  as- 
sortment of  goods. 

Soon  after  leaving  Masi,  the  banks  of  the  river  are  seven  feet  high, 
with  the  appearance  of  an  overflow  of  as  much  as  five  feet. 

One  of  the  Mojos  Indians  informed  the  ex-governor  we  could  get  up 
to  the  town  of  Trinidad  by  a small  stream  which  flowed  by  the  town. 
This  interested  our  men,  as  they  would  be  obliged  to  carry  the  baggage 
some  distance  over  the  plain  on  their  backs. 

They  pulled  with  a will,  and  entering  a small  channel  we  crossed, 
with  the  current,  from  the  Mamore  to  the  river  Ybare.  The  channel 
was  four  fathoms  deep  and  just  wide  enough  to  pass. 

The  Ybare  is  sixty  yards  wide,  and  has  very  little  current,  with  twenty- 
four  feet  depth  of  water,  though  it  is  said  this  stream  becomes  very  shal- 
low in  the  dry  season.  Descending  the  Ybare  a short  distance,  we  en- 
tered a stream  only  twelve  feet  wide,  where  the  men  found  great  diffi- 
culty in  forcing  the  canoe  against  the  current.  The  land  on  the  left 
hand  side  of  the  Ybare  is  an  island  formed  by  the  channel  we  came 
through  from  the  Mamore. 

After  the  men  had  been  working  for  some  time  up  stream, they  rested, 
got  breakfast,  and  cut  several  long  poles,  which  were  carefully  stowed 
away  in  the  canoe  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  baggage.  A trunk  is 


HONESTY  OF  INDIANS. 


227 


slung  to  the  middle  of  the  pole,  and  each  end  is  placed  on  a man’s 
shoulder. 

At  9 a.  m.,  June  1,  1852,  thermometer  77°,  wet  bulb  72°;  a short 
time  after  breakfast,  we  suddenly  came  where  there  were  no  trees.  The 
men  took  their  bow  and  stern  lines  and  mounted  the  bank,  and  we  fol- 
lowed ; on  gaining  the  top,  there,  stretched  out  to  the  far  east,  was  a 
perfect  sea  of  herd  grass.  As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  the  land  was 
as  level  as  a floor ; scarcely  a tree  to  be  seen  except  along  the  little 
stream  we  had  been  following,  with  a belief  we  were  amidst  a great 
wilderness  of  woods ; but  the  clear  light  of  day  shone  down  upon  an 
open  pasture-field. 

While  the  Indians  towed  the  canoe  by  the  path,  “ Padre  ” turned  to 
inquire  whether  we  wanted  to  go  farther  dowm  the  country  ; if  so,  the 
captain  and  crew  still  desired  to  serve  us.  But,  senor,  said  he,  “should 
you  engage  us  to  take  you,  please  pay  us  and  not  the  authorities,  wrho 
keep  the  silver  themselves  and  make  us  take  cotton  cloth.”  Here,  for 
the  first  time,  I discovered  the  crew  were  dissatisfied  with  the  way  the 
governor  of  Yuracares  had  treated  them.  Under  the  circumstances,  I 
considered  it  a duty  to  pay  them  extra,  in  silver  coin,  for  valuable  and 
faithfully-performed  services. 

There  are  two  characteristics  in  the  Indian  we  particularly  notice — 
his  honesty  and  his  truthfulness.  We  have  never  lost  the  least  thing 
from  our  baggage  or  persons  by  dishonest  Indians ; whenever  they 
offer  information  it  must  be  asked  for,  and  what  they  say  may  be  relied 
upon  as  correct.  We  have  never  found  this  to  be  otherwise  among  any 
of  them — of  the  high  or  low  countrymen — these  traits  are  observed 
among  all  the  tribes. 

The  schoolmaster  told  me  he  never  knew  a boat’s  crew  volunteer  to 
take  passengers  ; that  they  preferred  to  go  alone,  and  no  doubt  they 
offered  to  take  us  because  we  did  not  interfere  with  them.  lie  said  it 
was  customary  for  the  prefect  of  the  Beni  to  “whip  the  Indians”  when 
they  delayed  on  the  voyage  up  the  river.  This  reminded  me  that  on 
the  way  down  the  disappointed  governor  told  me,  if  the  men  did  not 
work  fast  enough,  by  threatening  to  have  them  whipped  at  Trinidad 
they  would  pull  more  rapidly. 

We  arrived  at  a wooden  bridge  thrown  over  the  narrow  stream, 
■where  a number  of  canoes  and  Indians  were  collected.  The  bridge  is  on 
a road  leading  from  a plantation  to  the  town  of  Trinidad.  It  was 
arched  ten  or  twelve  feet  above  the  prairies,  to  prevent  its  being  washed 
away.  In  the  rainy  season  the  lands  overflow  every  year  two  feet  deep. 
The  road  travelled  by  horses  and  on  foot  may  then  be  navigated  in 


223 


PASTURE  LANDS — BIRDS. 


canoes  nearly  up  to  the  town.  It  is  now  a dusty  road;  then  it  is  a nar- 
row channel  through  the  herd-grass,  which  grows  eight  feet  hioh.  The 
floods  come  loaded  with  earth  from  the  mountains,  and  overflow  these 
lauds.  The  mud  settles  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  as  it  filters' through 
the  herd-grass.  The  clean  water  gradually  drains  off,  leaving  a coat  of 
earth  behind.  The  old  crop  of  coarse  grass  has  fallen;  the  seeds  are 
planted  in  the  old  deposite,  and  up  it  grows  again.  Here  we  have  an 
annual  deposite  of  earth  and  one  of  grass-stalks. 

The  bridge  stands  so  high  we  can  see  afar  off  in  all  directions. 
There  are  a few  clusters  of  trees  here  and  there  where  the  river  upheaves 
the  land. 

Thousands  of  birds  that  fly  in  the  air  or  walk  on  the  plain  are  water- 
fowl.  Away  on  the  eastern  horizon  we  see  a long  black  line.  As  it 
approaches  we  hide  in  the  grass,  for  the  motion  of  the  wings  are  those 
of  the  wild  duck.  As  the  gun  goes  off,  wild  geese  rise  up  with  craues, 
as  they  do  from  the  edge  of  a great  lake.  Snipe  and  signs  of  snakes 
are  visible. 

Mamore  enjoys  being  let  out  of  the  canoe.  He  dashes  through  the 
grass  after  the  cattle ; while  he  chases  the  calf,  the  cow  rushes  after. 
Suddenly  he  comes  to  a stand  in  front  of  an  angry-looking  bull. 
Some  of  these  cattle  are  in  good  order,  while  others  look  small  and 
thin.  The  land  is  all  new  formation ; not  a stone  is  to  he  seen  in  the 
soil  nor  a grain  of  sand.  We  now  understand  why  the  Indians  gather 
up  flint  from  rocks  about  Yinchuta.  Here  is  a great  market  for  salt 
and  flints. 

We  find  the  sun  warm  as  we  walk  along  the  stream.  In  the  distance 
we  see  the  red-tiled  roofs  of  the  town  of  Trinidad. 

Flocks  of  large  blue  pigeons  are  flying  by  us,  and  feeding  upon  the 
seed  of  a weed  that  grows  in  marshy  places.  These  pigeons  are  wild, 
yet  they  are  the  same  in  appearance  as  the  common  tamed  pigeon. 
There  are  a number  of  large  birds  we  never  saw  before.  One  of  them  I 
supposed  to  be  an  ostrich ; but  it  flew  up  in  the  air,  spreading  a larger 
wing  than  the  condor,  and  of  a spotted  gray  color.  Among  the  grass- 
tops  are  some  of  the  most  beautiful  little  scarlet  and  blue  birds,  all 
feeding  upon  the  seed. 

A deer  bounded  through  the  grass ; the  country  seems  to  be  alive 
with  animals. 

If  we  had  come  down  the  Andes  in  the  wet  season,  we  have  some 
doubts  if  we  should  have  found  much  of  the  province  of  Mojos  above 
water;  for,  from  the  accounts  of  the  men,  they  cross  the  country  in 
every  direction  in  their  canoes,  while  the  horses,  cows,  and  other  anti- 


CITY  OF  TRINIDAD. 


229 


amphibious  creatures,  take  to  the  high  spots  for  safety.  They  remain 
on  what,  in  the  wet  season,  become  islands,  there  patiently  to  wait  the 
going  down  of  the  annual  deluge.  Many  cattle  and  horses  are  lost  by 
not  knowing  where  to  go. 

As  we  approached  the  town  of  Trinidad,  the  canoes  lying  at  the  bank 
of  the  stream,  logs  towed  up  from  the  wooded  country,  with  the  resem- 
blance of  the  cathedral  to  a ship-house,  added  to  the  number  of  white 
cotton  hamacs  hung  under  sheds  by  the  canoemen,  reminded  us  very 
much  of  a navy  yard. 

The  Indians  were  all  dressed  alike,  in  white  cotton  frocks ; some 
carrying  jars  of  water  on  their  heads  from  the  stream  to  the  houses  ; 
others  washing.  Carpenters  hewing  logs  for  houses,  or  digging  out 
canoes  with  North  American  tools.  One  of  the  men  was  somewhat 
astonished  at  the  interest  we  took  in  his  chisel,  manufactured  in  New 
England,  and  from  hand  to  hand  passed  to  this  Indian  carpenter,  who 
used  it  tolerably  well,  and  took  great  care  of  it.  He  had  no  idea  from 
whence  it  came,  except  that  the  canoemen  from  Yinchuta  brought  it 
with  them.  His  mallet  was  of  home  manufacture.  His  adze  came 
with  the  chisel.  He  had  no  nails  for  fastening  his  timbers ; wooden 
pegs  were  used.  Some  of  the  canoemen  were  loading  with  chocolate 
and  sugar  for  Santa  Cruz  and  Yinchuta ; others  were  unloading  salt, 
flour,  and  foreign  goods.  Women  were  digging  clay  out  of  the  bank 
for  pottery.  The  men  are  industrious,  and  the  women  quite  as  good 
looking  and  as  pleasant  in  expression  of  face  as  they  are  active  and 
handsome  in  figure.  The  exterior  of  the  town  and  people  was  remark- 
able for  neatness.  There  was  life  and  activity  here.  What  particu- 
larly pleased  us  was,  that  no  shabby-looking  policemen  came  to  demand 
our  passports.  We  walked  into  town  undisturbed  by  the  side  of  a fine- 
looking  Indian  driving  a yoke  of  oxen. 

The  streets  were  cleanly  swept,  wide,  and  perfectly  level ; they  ran  at 
right  angles;  each  square  had  been  nicely  measured  by  the  Jesuits  who 
came  into  the  wilderness,  called  the  savages  together,  and  instructed 
them  how  to  build  a city. 

The  houses  are  all  of  one  story,  roofed  with  tiles,  which  extend  over 
the  sidewalks  and  supported  on  a line  of  posts,  by  which  arrangement 
every  house  in  town  has  a piazza,  and,  in  the  wet  season  of  the  year, 
people  walk  all  round  one  block  under  cover,  or  all  over  town,  only  ex- 
posed to  the  rain  at  the  crossings.  The  floors  are  on  the  ground,  raised 
a very  little  above  the  level  of  the  street.  The  hollow  of  the  square  is 
open  to  all  on  each  side,  so  that  oxen  or  horses  may  be  driven  through. 
One  of  these  squares  is  the  market  place,  with  buildings  all  round.  One 


230 


HOUSED  IN  MOJOS. 


square  in  the  centre  of  the  town  is  perfectly  open — it  is  the  plaza.  A 
large  wooden  cross  stands  in  the  centre,  directly  in  front  of  the  cathedral. 
At  each  corner  of  the  plaza  there  stands  also  small  wooden  crosses, 
roughly  hewn.  Next  the  cathedral  stands  the  government  house,  the 
only  one  of  two  stories  in  the  place.  Here  we  met  the  prefect  of  the 
department  of  the  Beni.  As  we  knew  him  before  he  was  appointed, 
in  Cochabamba,  he  received  us  as  old  acquaintances. 

One  of  the  government  houses  was  put  in  order  for  us,  that  is  to  say, 
a small  table,  three  chairs,  and  bedsteads,  with  hide  bottoms,  were  put 
in,  with  a jar  of  water,  and  the  floor  well  swept.  Our  baggage  was 
brought  up  by  those  of  the  crew  not  sent  to  the  hospital,  some  distance 
from  town,  where  numbers  went  every  day  with  the  small  pox.  Our 
hamacs  slung  up,  Mamore  lay  down  at  the  door,  and  we  were  housed 
in  Mojos.  The  crew  came  to  take  leave  after  every  thing  had  been 
brought  from  the  boat;  they  were  going  home  to  San  Pedro,  to  their 
wives  and  families,  after  being  absent  on  a voyage  of  over  a month.  We 
have  been  seven  days  descending  from  Yinchuta ; they  were  twenty 
days  on  the  river  from  this  place  up. 

The  old  captain  made  a short  speech  of  thanks  for  the  crew,  who 
seemed  perfectly  satisfied  with  what  they  received  in  addition  to  the 
cotton  cloth.  “Nig"’  was  more  pleased  than  any  when  presented  with 
the  hide  rope  he  used  to  lasso  the  alligator.  “Padre”  was  sent  to  the 
hospital ; the  remainder  left  immediately. 

The  doctor  of  the  town  is  down  with  the  small  pox  a few  doors  from 
us,  and  one  hundred  cases  at  the  hospital.  We  have  come  into  the 
midst  of  it,  and  are  obliged  to  remain  to  make  arrangements  to  get 
out  of  the  Madeira  Plate,  which  is  considered  difficult.  There  are  three 
ways  to  reach  the  Atlantic  ocean;  one  by  the  Paraguay  river ; the  other 
across  the  empire  of  Brazil,  from  the  town  of  Matto  Grosso  to  Rio 
Janeiro,  and  the  third  by  the  Madeira  to  the  Amazon.  These  roads  all 
pass  through  tribes  of  savage  Indians.  We  must  try  all  three  before  we 
turn  back  towards  the  Pacific. 

We  dined  with  the  prefect  and  all  the  officers  of  the  prefectura, 
besides  some  of  the  correjidores  of  the  neighboring  towns  in  the  province. 
The  correjidor  or  governor  of  Trinidad,  under  the  immediate  eye  of  the 
prefect,  is  an  Indian;  but  those  of  the  smaller  towns  are  creoles,  appointed 
by  the  prefect,  and  approved  by  the  government. 

The  beef  was  tough  and  insipid  ; yucas  watery.  The  correjidores 
particularly  fancied  boiled  cabbage,  baked  plantains  and  yucas  served  as 
bread,  except  on  particular  occasions,  when  corn-cake,  made  of  grain 
mashed  into  paste  between  two  stones,  was  presented.  The  corn  is 


PON  ANTONIO  PE  BARRAS  CORPOZA. 


231 


raised  on  the  pampa  near  the  river  hanks,  and  the  stones  sold  in  market, 
after  being  transported  from  Yuracares. 

A row  of  large  glasses  containing  chicha  was  set  in  the  middle  of  the 
table,  to  which  the  government  officials  paid  particular  attention.  One 
of  the  young  men  at  the  table  had  the  goitre  very  badly,  though  the 
swelling  was  so  low  down  on  his  neck  that  he  could  tie  his  cravat  over 
it,  which  gave  him  a most  strange  expression.  We  attribute  the  insipid 
taste  of  the  beef  of  dinner,  and  the  swelling  in  this  man’s  neck,  to  the 
same  cause — the  want  of  salt. 

The  coffee  was  excellent,  but  the  tobacco  not  so  good  as  some  we 
found  in  Cochabamba  from  Santa  Cruz,  where  the  plant  grows  under  a 
a drier  climate. 

Don  Antonio  de  Barras  Cordoza,  a native  of  Para  in  Brazil,  came  to 
see  us.  Don  Antonio  seems  a clever  person.  He  had  more  resolution 
in  the  expression  of  his  face  than  any  man  we  had  met  with,  while  he 
looked  as  if  he  had  seen  some  hard  service  as  a sailor  on  the  Amazon. 
The  quick  and  pleasant  flash  of  his  eye,  when  I told  him  I wanted  to 
descend  the  Madeira  and  Amazon  to  Para,  gave  me  hopes.  He  told 
me  he  had  been  seven  months  on  his  voyage  here  from  Borba  on  the 
Madeira  river;  that  he  had  dragged  his  boats  over  the  land  on  rollers 
by  several  of  the  falls  on  the  Madeira,  unloading  his  cargo  at  the  foot 
of  each  fall,  and,  after  carrying  it  by  the  fall,  launched  his  boat  and  em- 
barked again.  His  father  had  made  a trip  of  the  same  kind  some  years 
before.  He  advised  me  not  to  take  a Mojos  canoe  or  crew ; that  the 
boat  would  be  broken  among  the  rocks,  and  that  the  Indians  of  Bolivia 
were  so  inexperienced  they  would  be  of  no  use  to  me,  even  if  they  did 
not  desert  me  as  soon  as  they  came  within  the  sound  of  the  roaring  of 
the  waters  of  the  first  fall,  as  they  had  already  done  with  some  Bolivians 
who  attempted  to  descend  the  river  with  them.  It  was  very  clear  that 
our  only  way  was  to  give  up  all  idea  of  aid  from  the  canoemen  of  Bo- 
livia in  this  respect,  and  look  to  Brazil.  The  prefect  might  order  men 
to  descend  the  Madeira,  and  we  might  go  at  once ; but  Indians  are  un- 
willing to  go  a great  distance  from  home.  One  month  to  them  is  con- 
sidered a long  voyage,  therefore  they  would  want  to  return  in  that  time  ; 
but,  by  Don  Antonio’s  account,  it  will  take  them  at  least  seven  months 
to  return  alone.  The  Indians  keep  count  of  the  number  of  days  absent 
from  their  wives  by  cutting  a small  notch  in  the  handle  of  their  paddles 
every  seventh  day,  and  a crew  that  returns  with  over  four  notches  has 
been  absent  a long  time  from  Trinidad,  it  is  thought. 

Don  Antonio  explained  to  me  how  it  was  that  the  canoes  of  Mojos 
were  not  fitted  for  the  route  down  the  Madeira.  They  are  all  hewn  or 


232 


BRAZILIAN  TRADER. 


dug  out  of  one  stick,  long  and  narrow.  When  the  crew  drag  the  canoe 
over  shallows  in  the  river,  she  may  lodge  on  a rock  under  the  centre ; 
the  heavy  weights  fore  and  aft,  on  a boat  forty  feet  long,  break  her  back 
in  two.  The  heft,  as  well  as  the  length  of  these  canoes,  make  them 
unmanageable  among  the  rapids.  When  we  come  to  navigate  the  land, 
he  said,  she  might  go  along  as  well  as  other  boats,  but  they  were  unfit 
for  the  waters  of  the  Madeira. 

Don  Antonio  was  a trader;  he  had  brought  up  a cargo  of  fancy  glass- 
ware ; liquors  of  different  kinds — French  wines,  brandy,  gin,  and  sweet 
wines.  The  Indians  drink  chicha ; they  are  unaccustomed  to  the  taste 
of  good  wine,  and  care  little  for  it ; they  also  use  earthenware.  For 
four  months  he  has  been  here  with  goods  exposed  to  view  in  a house  on 
the  corner  of  the  square.  lie  has  sold  but  little.  The  iron  he  brought 
sells  at  eighteen  and  twenty  cents  the  pound.  He  has  but  a few  pounds 
that  is  not  sold.  Sweet  oil  is  used  among  the  few  creoles,  but  they  re- 
fuse to  take  it  by  the  bottle ; so  he  retails  it  out,  six  cents  a wineglassful. 

He  invites  the  people  to  purchase  fire-rockets  by  setting  off  a few  now 
and  then  at  the  corner  of  the  plaza.  A creole  comes  along  and  gives  him 
so  many  pounds  of  cacao  for  so  many  rockets,  which  he  takes,  knowing 
he  'will  have  to  send  the  cacao  to  Santa  Cruz  to  get  money  for  it. 

I lived  with  Don  Antonio,  and  mention  with  confidence  and  respect, 
that  when  we  had  eggs  they  were  purchased  with  a handful  of  salt  for 
two ; a wineglass  four  times  filled  with  sweet  oil  paid  for  a chicken ; 
two  glasses  bought  a pound  of  sugar.  A jar  of  molasses  was  offered 
us  as  a present  from  the  correjidor;  and  a lady  sent  a pair  of  ducks,  for 
which  a bottle  of  sweet  wine  w’as  returned.  In  this  act  Don  Antonio  dis- 
played the  most  exquisite  gallantry  and  generosity,  so  considered  by  her 
lady  friends  next  door. 

Don  Antonio  owned  the  only  two  boats  from  the  Amazon  on  the 
upper  waters,  which  wTere  of  the  proper  build  for  the  falls  in  the  Madeira. 
He  offered  me  one  of  his  small  boats  wdien  it  returned  from  the  Itenez 
river,  but  he  had  no  men.  I was  obliged  to  wait  and  go  with  him  to 
Brazil  to  get  them. 

We  met  an  Englishman  here  who  had  made  a voyage  over  the  falls 
in  the  Madeira  and  back  with  Senor  Palacios.  He  also  advised  me  not 
to  trust  the  Mojos  Indians  on  such  a journey.  This  was  discouraging, 
for  I was  uncertain  how  long  we  might  be  kept  without  knowing  whether 
we  would  eventually  succeed  or  not.  This  was  the  dry  season,  and  the 
proper  time  to  move  forward.  Should  we  be  delayed  until  December  in 
this  plate,  our  chances  were  over  until  next  year. 

The  Department  of  the  Beni  has  a population  of  30,148  friendly 


DEPARTMENT  OF  THE  BENI. 


233 


Indians  and  creoles,  of  which  6,132  Indian  men,  between  the  ages  of 
eighteen  and  fifty  years,  and  only  325  creoles,  pay  contribution  to  the 
governme®  of  two  dollars  each  a year.  There  are  985  men  in  this  de- 
partment over  fifty  years  of  age,  and  they  are  excused  from  paying  this 
tax,  as  well  as  the  women  and  children. 

The  government  of  Bolivia  settles  accounts  with  the  church  for  the 
Indians  out  of  the  annual  income  of  813,464.  The  Indians  pay  this 
tax  in  cotton  table  cloths,  sheets,  hamacs,  towels,  ponchos,  and  pieces 
of  cotton  goods  made  by  their  own  hands.  They  cultivate  maize  and 
coffee,  tobacco,  yuca,  oranges,  plantains,  lemons,  and  papayos  ; cocoa 
grows  wild  along  the  rivers  ; rice  is  raised  in  small  quantities. 

A home-made  table-cloth  is  worth  three  dollars;  there  were  over 
seven  hundred  exported  last  year  from  this  department.  A pair  of  sheets 
costs  five  dollars  and  #fifty  cents ; a hamac,  five  ; a towel,  two.  Over 
three  thousand  yards  of  Indian  domestic  cotton  cloth  were  also  exported 
last  year,  at  thirty-one  and  a quarter  cents  a yard  ; dry  hides  are  valued 
at  twelve  and  a half  cents ; tiger  skins,  two  dollars  ; straw  hats,  from 
fifty  cents  to  one  dollar  ; coffee,  three  dollars  ; tamarinds,  two  dollars  ; 
tobacco,  one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  ; and  cocoa,  two  dollars  the 
arroba  of  twenty-five  pounds  ; prepared  chocolate  is  worth  eighteen  and 
three-quarter  cents  a pound. 

It  is  difficult  to  estimate  the  annual  yield  of  cacao — last  year  over 
eight  thousand  arrobas  were  sent  to  the  people  on  the  Andes.  Horned 
cattle  on  the  pampa  are  worth  two  dollars  a head.  A few  Brazil  nuts 
are  brought  into  the  market  of  Trinidad,  where  they  sell  at  one  dollar 
the  arroba. 

This  is  a list  of  the  exports  from  the  very  bottom  of  the  Madeira 
Plate — all  of  which  are  sent  out  against  the  current  and  up  the  sides  of 
the  Andes.  There  are  a few  Indians  in  Yuracares  who  pay  contribu- 
tion in  cinchona  bark ; it  has  to  be  entered  at  the  sub-treasury  here  ; 
forty  arrobas  have  come  down  in  a year.  The  Indian  is  allowed  eight 
dollars  and  seventy  five  cents  the  arroba  when  it  is  forwarded  to  the 
Pacific  ocean. 

While  the  door  of  this  interior  is  at  the  head  of  the  Madeira  river, 
the  people  go  back  up-stairs,  and  pass  their  goods  and  chattels  over  the 
roof,  down  through  the  chimney,  to  the  Pacific ; stemming  the  current, 
and  struggling  against  difficulties  among  the  clouds,  through  storms 
and  dangers,  passing  through  cold,  frozen  regions,  on  the  way*to  market ; 
leaving  a most  productive  country  road,  and  passing  through  one  less 
and  less  valuable,  until  they  get  into  a desert,  the  off-side  of  which  may 
be  approached  by  a ship ; while  Don  Antonio  has  brought  his  vessels 


234 


AMAZONIAN  BOATS. 


from  the  Atlantic  ocean,  and  is  trying  to  sell  them  the  very  articles 
they  are  struggling  for  at  such  great  expense  from  the  otj^r  direction. 
He  has  brought  a cargo  of-glassware  and  Pennsylvania  iron  up  the  Ma- 
deira, while  they  seem  to  insist  upon  getting  New  England  tools  over 
the  Andes.  He  expresses  to  me  the  great  difficulty  he  finds  in  selling 
his  cargo.  The  creoles  seem  perfectly  contented  with  the  trade  as  it  is ; 
some  of  them  have  gone  so  far  as  to  express  an  opinion  that,  should 
commerce  be  made  to  flow  through  the  Madeira,  it  will  destroy  their 
present  'prosperity. 

The  department  of  the  Beni  is  considered  by  the  government  the 
dungeon  of  this  country.  When  a man’s  opinions  are  thought  by  the 
president  to  endanger  the  public  peace,  he  is  banished  to  the  Beni.  He 
leaves  his  domicil  on  the  tops  of  the  Andes,  and  comes  down  under  the 
tamarind  trees  of  Mojos.  This  band  of  exiles  settle  here  amidst  an 
industrious  tribe  of  Indian  planters.  By  their  superior  intelligence  and 
greater  recklessness,  as  a race,  they  out-trade  the  Indians.  The  Indian 
produces  all  the  necessaries  of  life — he  makes  hats,  cotton  cloths,  and 
leather  shoes  ; tends  the  cattle  ; manufactures  sugar  ; raises  coffee  and 
chocolate,  yuca  and  plantains ; builds  houses ; bakes  the  pottery,  and 
lassoes  the  horse  on  the  prairie  for  the  creole  to  ride.  He  is  brought 
under  control,  and  obeys  as  a servant. 

We  find  our  enterprise  less  popular  here  than  anywhere  upon  our 
route.  The  prefect  of  the  department  tells  me  he  doubts  if  one  of  the 
people  will  consent  to  go  down  with  me  to  the  Amazon ; that  Senor  Pa- 
lacios was  one  of  the  government  authorities,  and  the  Indians  did  not 
dare  to  disobey  when  they  were  called  upon  to  go  on  his  expedition ; 
but  the  Englishman  says  the  men  had  such  a rough  time  of  it  on  that 
occasion,  that  when  they  returned  and  told  their  families  and  neighbors, 
it  made  such  an  impression  they  refused  to  go  again,  and  deserted  from 
the  canoes.  One  of  the  correjidores  fitted  out  an  expedition  for  Para  ; 
when  the  Indians  ran,  he  confessed  he  had  to  run  with  them  for  fear  of 
being  left  to  starve  in  the  wilderness.  They  have  less  fear  of  savages, 
it  is  said,  than  of  the  roaring  sound  of  the  falling  waters. 

I rode  two  leagues  over  the  pampa  with  Don  Antonio,  to  visit  his 
vessels,  which  we  found  moored  by  the  bank  of  the  Ybare  river.  The 
largest,  the  size  of  a line  of  battle  ship’s  launch  built  upon,  had  a covered 
cabin,  and  a roof  over  the  forward  part  of  the  hold,  called  by  the  Ama- 
zon sailor  ‘‘  Coberta.”  The  second  one  was  also  covered,  but  smaller, 
called  “ Igarite.”  They  are  without  masts,  propelled  on  the  river  by 
paddles  or  poles,  and  prepared  to  pass  over  the  land  on  rollers.  The 
largest  one  mounted  a small  four-pound  iron  gun,  which  Don  Antonio 


LANGUAGES. 


235 


fired  off  when  the  new  prefect  arrived ; and  the  sound  of  that  little  gun 
was  echoed  through  the  whole  of  this  country  by  the  newspapers. 

On  the  Andes  we  found  two  languages  spoken  by  the  Indians  of  the 
great  tribes,  the  Quichua  and  Aymara,  both  in  the  days  of  the  Incas 
under  the  same  government.  But  in  the  Madeira  Plate,  the  Indians  living 
on  the  same  plain  are  divided  into  small  tribes,  and  speaking  different 
languages,  between  the  Inca  territory  and  uncivilized  tribes  of  savages 
below  them.  Here,  in  the  city  of  Trinidad,  the  tribe  is  called  Mojos, 
speaking  the  same  language  as  the  Indians  of  the  three  nearest  towns — 
Loreto,  San  Javier,  and  San  Ignacio.  In  Santa  Ana  the  language  dif- 
fers ; the  Indians  speak  Mobirnos ; in  San  Pedro,  Canichanos ; in 
Exaltation,  Cayuvaba;  in  San  Ramon,  Magdelina,  and  San  Jose  del 
Guacaraje,  Itonama ; in  San  Borja,  Boryano ; in  Reyes,  Reyesano;  in 
San  Ivaquin,  Raures  and  Yuracares. 

Here  are  nine  different  languages  or  dialects  in  the  same  district  of 
level  country,  and  we  recognise  a difference  in  the  physiognomies  of  the 
Yuracares,  Mojos,  and  Canichanas  tribes.  The  Yuracares  are  more 
lively,  cheerful,  and  talkative ; they  are  lighter  colored,  more  fond  of 
hunting  and  rambling  through  the  woods  than  the  others.'  The  Mojos 
Indians  are  a grave,  sedate,  and  thoughtful  people.  They  are  larger 
than  the  men  of  Yuracares.  The  women  are  considered  handsome; 
those  of  Yuracares  are  very  homely.  Here  the  girls  are  large,  well  de- 
veloped, and  pleasant ; there  they  are  small  and  cross-tempered,  looking 
as  though  they  wanted  to  quarrel  with  men.  Here  they  take  their 
rights  without  asking.  The  Mojos  Indians  are  particularly  fond  of  cul- 
tivating the  soil ; they  drive  the  ox-team  well.  The  boys  run  away 
from  school  to  the  plough-field,  where  they  seem  to  enjoy  the  labor,  or 
paddle  the  canoe  with  a load  of  fruit  to  market.  They  have  little  fancy 
for  the  town  or  house  ; the  older  ones  like  farming  the  best,  and  the 
women  seem  satisfied  to  stay  at  home.  These  Indians  carry  no  bows  and 
arrows  about  with  them,  except  on  long  voyages  up  and  down  the  river. 
Since  domestic  cattle  were  introduced,  they  have  put  aside  the  arrow 
and  taken  up  the  lasso,  which  they  handle  well.  They  know'  nothing  of 
fire-arms,  never  having  used  them.  The  Spanish  race  has  stripped  them 
of  all  means  of  defence,  except  the  war-club,  should  they  choose  to  cut 
one.  They  are  civil,  quiet,  and  peaceable ; seldom  quarrel  among  them- 
selves, and  are  already  taught  the  consequences  should  they  do  so  with 
the  creole,  who  treats  them  worse  than  slaves.  The  humble  Indian 
obeys  the  meanest  creole.  The  laws  are  made  for  the  creole,  not  for 
him  ; he  pays  the  same  annual  tax,  yet  he  has  no  vote.  He  is  ignorant 
of  the  laws  by  which  he  is  governed.  But  one  case  has  been  known 


236 


JESUITS. 


where  the  correjidor  had  been  so  overbearing  and  cruel  in  his  treatment 
of  them  that  they  put  him  to  death  and  burnt  the  government  house. 
These  sent  to  say  they  would  obey  any  one  else  the  President  might 
appoint  over  them.  They  built  a new  government  house,  and  were  ever 
after  quiet.  These  were  the  Canichanas,  the  same  as  our  faithful  canoe- 
men,  who  appear  to  be  spirited  fellows. 

The  province  of  Mojos  extends  to  the  east  as  far  as  the  Itenez  river, 
which  is  the  boundary  line  between  it  and  Brazil.  The  country  is  in- 
habited by  wild  tribes  of  savages,  upon  whom  the  Jesuits  never  could 
make  any  impression,  for  they  will  neither  hold  friendly  intercourse  with 
the  Spanish  race  nor  with  the  friendly  Indians.  They  are  warlike  in 
disposition,  and  meet  all  overtures  on  the  part  of  others  at  the  point  of 
their  arrows. 

The  labors  of  the  Jesuits,  here,  were  much  more  difficult  than  on  the 
mountains,  where  the  whole  nation  seemed  as  one  man  to  fall  under  the 
new  order  of  things  after  the  Spanish  conquest.  Here  all  the  different 
tribes  had  to  be  approached  with  distinct  care,  for  as  their  language  and 
dispositions  differed,  their  forms  of  worship  also  in  some  degree  varied 
from  each  other.  The  Jesuits  were  untiring  in  their  efforts,  and  made 
advances  to  them  all.  Many  of  the  priests  were  murdered  in  their  moral 
struggle  with  the  red  man. 

The  few  Spaniards  who  followed  down  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes 
at  the  heels  of  the  priests,  and  settled  near  the  line,  have  not  assisted  the 
workings  of  the  church  ; for,  wherever  they  have  met  the  savage,  a dif- 
ficulty between  them  have  caused  continuous  wars,  and  now  the  savage 
disposition  of  the  red  man  excites  a constant  desire  for  revenge. 

The  Spanish  schools  are  drawing  the  children  of  these  different  tribes 
closer  together  by  teaching  them  lessons  from  the  same  language.  The 
Bolivian  government  has  adopted  a wise  plan  to  bind  these  ignorant 
people  together.  The  fewer  number  of  languages  the  more  friendly 
disposed  people  become  towards  each  other. 

We  have  seen  on  the  mountains  the  effect  of  the  Quichua  speech 
taught  by  the  Inca  family  to  the  wild  tribes  that  inhabited  those  regions. 
There  remained  but  two  languages  from  the  equator  to  the  southern 
boundary  of  Potosi,  and  the  highest  state  of  civilization.  From  what 
we  see  of  the  Mojos  Indians  they  are  quite  as  intelligent,  and  even  more 
so,  than  the  Quiclnias  or  Aymaras,  who  never  manufactured  the  wool 
of  the  alpaca  or  vicuna  so  well  as  the  Mojos  Indians  do  the  cotton. 
The  stone-work  of  the  Quichuas  or  Avamaras  does  not  surpass  the 
wood-work  if  these.  The  stone  chisel  in  the  hand  of  the  Cuzco  or 
Tiahuanco  Indian  was  skilfully  used ; but  we  see  at  a glance  in  how 


INDIAN  PAINTINGS. 


237 


superior  a manner  the  Mojos  Indian  employs  carpenter’s  tools.  The 
mountain  Indians  have  been  praised  for  their  natural  talent  in  painting. 
Some  of  the  productions  in  Trinidad  would  amuse  the  critic ; yet  the 
highest  taste  is  found  here.  The  lesson  in  colors  is  nowhere  more  plainly 
set  before  the  eye.  We  have  seen  in  the  hand  of  a Mojos  Indian  a bird 
the  size  of  a sparrow,  with  seven  distinct  colors  among  its  feathers ; pro- 
bably there  is  no  part  of  the  world  where  there  are  a greater  variety  of 
beautifully-colored  birds  than  in  the  Madeira  Plate. 

The  aptness  of  these  people  in  learning  is  not  second  to  those  of  the 
mountains.  They  cultivate  the  sugar-cane  quite  as  well  as  the  others 
do  the  barley,  and  when  we  examined  the  woollen  goods  of  the  moun- 
tain girls,  and  compared  them  with  the  white  cotton  dresses  of  the  fair 
ones  on  the  hanks  of  the  rivers  in  the  lowlands,  both  made  by  their  own 
hands,  we  must  give  preference  to  the  manufactures  of  Mojos,  with  all 
deference  to  the  memory  of  Manco  Capac’s  wife,  who  taught  the  moun- 
tain girls  to  net  and  knit,  to  spin  and  to  weave.  The  Mojos  women  are 
few  in  number,  and  the  people  of  the  next  tribe  being  as  exclusive  as 
those  of  Japan,  the  manufacturers  of  the  one  tribe  had  no  opportunities 
to  exchange  with  them  ideas. 

The  Mojos  Indians  have  a natural  fondness  for  painting  human  figures 
and  representing  birds  and  animals,  particularly  the  common  chicken 
and  the  cow.  The  latter  seems  to  have  made  a deep  impression  upon 
them  at  first  sight ; they  often  paint  the  cow  fighting  or  chasing  a man. 
These  Indians  describe  the  novel  sights.  I have  not  seen  a single  paint- 
ing of  an  Indian  or  of  an  animal  which  originally  belonged  on  this  pampa. 
The  white  man,  the  cow,  and  chicken  cock,  are  their  favorite  studies. 
On  the  white  walls  of  their  houses,  inside  and  out,  such  figures  appear 
as  a decoration.  In  the  rooms  of  the  government  houses  the  best  artist 
displayed  his  talent,  and  those  drawings  on  the  walls  of  the  market- 
place are  admired  by  all  who  go  there.  So  much  taste  and  caution  have 
the  boys  and  little  children,  that  none  of  them  are  known  to  disfigure 
any  of  these  paintings  in  the  public  market-place. 

The  Indians  of  Cuzco  have  had  some  of  the  most  beautiful,  large, 
and  costly  paintings  hung  before  them  in  the  churches  of  that  ancient 
city.  The  church  encourages  this  taste ; yet  we  saw  nothing  there  like 
what  we  find  among  these  people  who  have  never  had  lessons  set  them, 
and  the  natural  scenery  here  is  less  calculated  to  draw  upon  the  imagina- 
tion. The  whole  country  is  a dead  level ; the  view  only  extends  to  the 
horizon,  the  sky  above,  and  one  continued  sheet  of  herd-grass  below. 

The  Mojos  Indian  makes  a scene  for  himself,  and  describes  it  with 
colored  paints.  On  a windy  day  he  strikes  light  and  puts  fire  to  the 


23S 


FOREIGN  GOODS. 


dry  prairie-grass.  As  the  wind  carries  the  fire  swiftly  along,  and  the 
sheets  of  blaze  shoot  up  under  the  heavy  cloud  of  smoke,  the  Indian 
sketches  the  effect  produced  upon  the  cattle,  who  toss  their  tails  into  the 
air,  and  rush  in  fear  with  heads  erect  at  the  top  of  their  speed  in  an  op- 
posite direction  to  that  from  which  the  wind  comes,  lie  decorates  the 
inside  wall  of  his  house  with  this  scene,  which  is  a common  one  on 
these  prairie  lands. 

The  Mojos  Indians  have  musical  talent  also,  what  the  Quichua  Indians 
want.  The  Aymaras  have  a little,  but  the  Mojos  are  decided  by  natural 
characteristics : they  play  the  guitar,  violin,  and  flute ; blow  their  or- 
ganic pipes,  and  beat  the  drum.  They  accompany  the  instruments  writh 
a sweet  voice,  and  read  music  with  ease.  They  all  take  part  in  church 
music,  while  on  the  mountains  a regular  choir  is  employed. 

The  altar  of  the  cathedral  is  beautifully  carved  out  of  ornamental 
woods,  adorned  with  hundreds  of  dollars’  worth  of  silver.  The  candle- 
sticks are  made  of  tin,  and  the  candles  are  tallow.  The  silver  and  tin 
came  from  Potosi.  The  wood  and  tallow  are  close  at  hand. 

We  are  ignorant  of  the  means  used  by  the  Jesuits  to  incline  the 
savages  to  collect  together  on  a swell  of  the  pampa,  and  plant  the  corner 
post  of  this  cathedral.  They  could  not  understand  the  white  man’s 
language ; they  worshipped  what  they  saw  before  them  on  the  plain, 
in  the  heavens,  and  among  the  woods;  and  yet  they  were  induced  to 
erect  a church,  kneel  in  it,  and  worship  the  God  who  made  them  as  well 
as  the  animals.  All  this  was  accomplished  by  a series  of  signs  of  the 
hand. 

Don  Antonio  brought  among  his  cargo  some  gold  ornaments  manu- 
factured in  France  aud  Portugal;  amidst  other  similar  articles,  a number 
of  gilded  beads.  The  Indian  women  of  the  town  of  Exaltacion  fancied 
and  purchased  a quantity  of  them.  They  were  sold  as  gold  beads,  just 
as  a jeweller  disposes  of  such  things.  The  Indian  women  put  one  of 
them  into  the  fire,  and  after  heating  it  well  and  then  cooling  it,  placed 
it  by  the  side  of  some  others.  The  change  of  color  proved  to  them 
that  the  beads  contained  alloy.  They  were  at  once  deposited  in  the 
hands  of  the  police  and  sent  back  to  Don  Antonio,  who  had  left  for 
this  place.  He  laid  the  case  before  the  prefect,  and  informed  him  the 
beads  had  not  been  sold  as  pure  gold,  but  as  ornaments.  The  beads 
were  forwarded  to  a jeweller  in  Cochabamba  to  determine  their  true 
value,  which  was  as  Don  Antonio  said.  But  the  Indians  would  not 
receive  them.  They  answered  that  the  beads  were  not  pure,  and  for 
that  reason  they  did  not  wish  them,  nor  would  they  wear  such  things  if 
they  were  manufactured  in  Paris.  He  had  to  return  their  money. 


CURRENCY. 


239 


Gold  manufactured  into  ornaments  in  this  country  is  generally 
worked  up  just  as  it  comes  from  the  river,  without  the  application  of 
any  artificial  alloy.  The  Indians  do  not  understand  this  art  of  mixing. 
The  Spaniards  often  do  ; and  the  Indians  have  their  own  way  of  prov- 
ing the  impositions  sometimes  practised  on  them.  The  Brazilian  mer- 
chant was  exceedingly  annoyed  at  the  idea  of  being  considered  dishonest 
by  those  he  had  been  dealing  fairly  with.  He  tried  in  vain  to  show 
that  he  sold  the  beads  for  less  than  if  they  had  been  pure.  It  was  of 
no  use ; the  Indians  had  their  ideas  of  what  they  should  be ; they  did 
not  want  the  reasoning,  but  pure  gold  beads. 

Don  Antonio  made  a young  mestizo  girl  a present  of  a gilded  chain, 
because  she  had  purchased  a number  of  ribbons  and  silk  handkerchiefs 
from  him.  She  brought  it  back  a short  time  after,  and  thanked  him 
for  it,  saying  it  was  of  no  use.  They  had  put  it  into  the  fire,  and  it 
very  soon  turned  copperisli.  He  was  much  displeased  with  her,  because 
he  had  made  it  a present ; but  she  answered,  “ Had  your  present  been 
pure,  I should  have  valued  it.” 

Shot-guns  are  valuable ; but  the  people  refuse  to  pay  coin  for  them ; 
there  is  very  little  here  indeed.  The  Amazon  trader,  who  comes  from 
a cacao-producing  country,  is  invited  to  accept  so  many  pounds  of 
chocolate  for  a shot-gun,  or  to  exchange  shot  for  the  same  article. 

The  copper  coin  and  paper  money  of  Brazil  are  of  no  value  here. 
The  smallest  coins  in  Bolivia  are  three-cent  silver  pieces.  There  is  no 
copper  currency.  The  metal  is  found  on  the  plains  of  Oruro  in  too 
great  abundance.  Neither  have  they  paper  money  in  Bolivia  as  in 
Brazil. 

The  authorities  mentioned  to  Don  Antonio  he  would  be  expected  to 
pay  a duty  for  every  thousand  dollars  he  may  collect  in  silver  and  gold 
in  the  country.  The  people  seem  jealous  of  the  foreigner  who  brings 
them  goods  and  carries  off  silver. 


240 


CATTLE  AND  HORSES. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Horned  cattle  and  horses — “ Peste” — Salt  trade — Church  service — Bull-fight — 
Mariano  Cuyaba — Rules  and  regulations  of  the  town — Laws  and  customs  of 
the  creoles — A walk  through  the  plaza  .at  midnight — Scenes  on  the  road  to  the 
town  of  Loreto — Annual  deluge — The  beasts,  birds,  and  fishes — Loreto — 
Inhabitants — Grove  of  tamarind  trees — Winds  of  the  Madeira  Plate — A bird- 
hunter — Trapiche — A black  tiger  burnt  out — Departure  in  Brazilian  boats — 
Enter  the  Mamore  river  again — An  Indian  overboard. 

Homed  cattle  and  horses  are  scattered  over  the  plains  of  Mojos  far 
away  from  the  settled  parts,  and  are  now  roaming  wild  through  the 
country,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  estimate  their  numbers.  A creole 
returned  to  Trinidad  from  Reyes  reported  many  thousand  cattle  roaming 
wild  between  the  Mamore  and  Beni  rivers. 

These  cattle  and  horses  are  suffering  under  the  effects  of  an  epidemic, 
which  the  creoles  call  “peste” — plague.  This  disease  is  said  to  have 
been  brought  from  Brazil,  where  the  cattle  are  affected  in  the  same  way. 
The  horse  seems  to  suffer  the  most.  Within  the  last  few  years  nearly 
all  the  horses  in  Mojos  have  been  swept  away  by  the  “peste.” 

The  first  symptoms  are  weakness  in  the  limbs.  The  animal  does  not 
lose  his  appetite,  but  gradually  falls  away,  until  his  strength  is  entirely 
gone,  when  he  lies  down  and  eats  the  grass  around  him  even  to  the 
roots  with  a most  ravenous  hunger.  The  nearer  death  approaches  the 
greater  his  desire  for  food,  when  he  ceases  to  be  able  to  hold  up  his 
head,  and  finally  is  lost.  We  have  seen  a fine  saddle-horse  in  good 
order  kept  clear  of  the  peste  by  placing  a cake  of  Potosi  salt  where  he 
might  lick  it  when  he  chose.  This  noble  animal  seemed  really  to  feed 
upon  the  salt.  His  coat  was  sleek,  and  he  held  his  head  up  above  the 
pampa  horses,  who  are  never  supplied  with  this  expensive  article. 

The  cattle  all  look  miserably  thin  and  stunted,  as  though  not  well  fed, 
yet  the  plains  are  covered  with  a fine  growth  of  grass.  This  epidemic 
commenced  in  1846.  There  is  no  telling  the  sweeping  effect  it  has  had 
upon  the  cattle.  As  to  the  horses,  we  judge  they  have  nearly  all  been 
destroyed.  We  see  them  still  dying  about  on  the  plain.  Mules  are 
affected  in  the  same  way,  though  they  linger  longer  than  horses.  Salt 
dissolved  in  water  will  sometimes  bring  them  to  after  they  are  unable 
to  stand  on  their  legs. 

As  we  never  heard  the  Gauchos  of  the  pampas  of  Buenos  Ayres 


SALT  TRADE. 


241 


speak  of  this  disease,  there  is  reason  to  believe  it  is  principally  confined 
within  the  rain-belt  region,  where  fresh  water  covers  so  much  of  the 
pasture  lan<$s.  We  have  no  account  of  this  disease  having  destroyed 
the  cattle  and  horses  of  Chiquitos,  where  evaporation  is  greater  than  the 
precipitation. 

Throughout  our  route  we  have  found  more  females  affected  with  the 
goitre  than  males.  In  the  deep  mountain  ravines,  we  were  nearly  led 
to  the  belief  men  never  were  troubled  with  this  swelling  of  the  throat. 

While  looking  at  a drove  of  cattle,  which  has  just  arrived  from  the 
plains,  at  the  market  of  Trinidad,  we  noticed  that  while  nearly  all  the 
cows,  young  and  old,  were  miserably  thin,  many  of  the  males  were  in 
good  condition. 

There  is  no  trade  at  the  present  day  in  this  part  of  the  country  so 
important  as  that  of  salt  brought  from  without  the  rain  belt.  This  rain 
belt  is  broken.  At  Lima,  in  Peru,  it  never  rains,  only  sometimes  drops. 
There  the  precipitation  is  very  little,  and  the  evaporation  great.  Lima 
is  in  latitude  12°  03'  south.  A few  leagues  north  of  Lima,  on  the  coast, 
are  found  the  salt  basins  of  Huacho.  Sea-water  is  let  into  basins  on 
the  plain.  In  twenty  months  the  sun  evaporates  the  water,  and  blocks 
of  salt  are  left,  which  supply  the  markets  of  North  Peru.  The  govern- 
ment of  Peru  takes  advantage  of  the  break  in  the  rain-belt,  and  leases 
the  “ Salinas,”  as  they  are  called,  to  those  who  pay  an  annual  rent  into 
the  public  treasury. 

The  salt  of  Huacho  is  carried  east,  over  the  Cordilleras,  to  the  valley 
Juaja,  where  it  rains  half  the  year,  and  where  we  found  animals  suffer- 
ing for  the  want  of  it,  though  found  in  veins.  The  northeast  and 
southeast  trade  winds  carry  rains  from  the  north  and  south  Atlantic  up 
to  the  snow-capped  Cordilleras  to  the  west  of  Juaja  valley.  There  the 
winds  give  out ; after  they  have  had  all  the  moisture  wrung  out  of  them, 
there  is  none  left  to  pass  over  the  Cordilleras  and  rain  down  into  Lima. 
The  break,  in  the  rain-belt,  formed  by  the  meeting  of  these  two  trade 
winds,  drawn  back  and  forth  after  the  sun  takes  place  on  the  very  tops 
of  the  Cordilleras  range  of  mountains,  where  the  last  drop  of  moisture 
in  the  winds  freeze  and  fall  in  the  shape  of  snow  flakes.  Just  below 
this  is  found  the  native  habitation  of  the  Peruvian  camel.  The  Indian 
who  inhabits  the  valley  of  Juaja,  in  want  of  salt,  drives  the  llama  down 
to  the  Pacific  coast,  and  takes  it  from  a line  level  with  the  ocean.  He 
goes  to  the  sea  foT  it  in  preference  to  collecting  it  from  the  mine.  Should 
he  go  south,  to  Chile,  he  finds  the  southerly  winds  bring  rain  along  the 
coast,  and  instead  of  a supply,  he  finds  a market.  If  he  goes  north  of 
16 


242 


CHURCH  SERVICE. 


Huacho  to  Equador,  there  northerly  winds  bring  rain,  and  there  is 
another  market. 

The  Indian  loads  his  llama  with  one  hundred  poundsiof  salt,  and 
drives  him  up  the  western  slope  of  the  Peruvian  mountains,  through  a 
gorge  filled  with  snow,  over  sixteen  thousand  feet  high,  to  the  plains  of 
Juaja. 

While  the  Potosi  Indian  loads  his  argentine  mule  with  three  hundred 
pounds  of  salt,  not  from  the  ocean,  but  from  the  salt  lakes  on  the  plains 
of  Potosi,  made  by  the  natural  evaporation  of  the  sun  from  afresh  water 
stream  on  the  top  of  the  Andes,  running  over  rock  salt ; he,  too,  takes 
it  under  the  rain-belt  to  the  market  of  Mojos.  If  salt  may  be  made  so 
readily  from  the  water  of  the  sea  at  Turk’s  Island  in  the  West  Indies,  why 
may  it  not  be  made  somewhere  on  the  west  coast  of  Mexico?  The 
scorching  rays  of  the  sun  peel  the  skin  off  people’s  noses  there  just  as 
they  do  on  the  table  lands  of  Potosi,  and  along  the  shores  of  Peru. 

The  town  of  Trinidad  is  the  largest  in  Mojos,  with  a population  of 
over  three  thousand,  few  of  which  are  creoles.  The  national  creole  guard 
musters  about  twenty  soldiers  and  five  officers,  headed  by  the  prefect 
with  the  rank  of  General  de  Brigada , armed  with  old  flint  lock 
muskets.  One  common  gun-flint  will  purchase,  in  the  market,  a basket 
containing  one  dozen  delicious  oranges.  The  flint  part  of  Don  Antonio’s 
cargo  was  disposed  of  at  once,  and  the  silver  willingly  paid.  He  brought 
a supply  for  a long  time  to  come,  even  at  the  risk  of  a revolution.  Ex- 
ternal wars  have  never  interfered  with  Mojos,  except  the  war  of  exclu- 
siveness. 

Qn  the  6th  of  June,  mass  was  held  in  the  cathedral,  tho  day  being 
called  Santissima  Trinidada.  After  mass  we  witnessed  a grand  proces- 
sion, headed  by  the  prefect  and  clergy,  followed  by  the  whole  population 
dressed  in  white  gowns,  “ camecitas,”  as  they  are  called  here.  When- 
ever the  Indians  are  performing  church  service,  the  women  unplat  their 
hair,  and  allow  it  to  hang  gracefully  loose  behind  over  their  white 
dresses.  The  hair  of  the  men  is  cut  short. 

At  each  corner  of  the  plaza  was  an  arbor,  constructed  of  green  foliage 
and  flowers,  with  plantain  trees  and  palm  leaves.  As  they  marched 
round  to  music  and  singing,  the  scene  was  beautiful  and  interesting. 
The  red  race  dressed  in  white  cotton  cloth,  following  the  catholic  clergy 
in  rich  costume,  bearing  wooden  images  on  their  shoulders ; three 
thousand  savages,  half  civilized,  were  singing  church  music,  and  living 
under  the  laws  of  quasi  white  men.  The  few  creoles  who  walked  by  the 
side  of  the  prefect  and  clergy  were  but  a drop  in  the  plate. 

After  the  procession  returned  to  the  cathedral,  the  Indians  pulled 


BULL  FIGHT. 


243 


down  tlie  arbors  and  entered  tbe  plaza,  bearing  long  poles,  with  which 
they  built  an  enclosure  on  the  corner  of  the  square  next  the  prefectura. 
A pen  was  erected  adjoining,  in  which,  one  by  one,  were  placed  a num- 
ber of  savage  bulls,  wild  from  the  pampas. 

The  people  gathered  round  and  on  the  balcony  of  the  prefectura ; 
musicians  were  comfortably  and  safely  seated.  As  twelve  or  fourteen 
able-bodied  Indians  entered  the  enclosure,  a bull  was  let  loose  on  them, 
and  the  play  was  commenced.  The  bull  rushed  at  the  first  man  near 
him,  and  as  he  got  away,  ran'  headlong  towards  the  crowd  outside  the 
poles.  The  people  laughing  jumped  on  either  side  and  let  the  animal 
run  his  horns  into  the  fence.  He  became  furious,  bellowed  and  tossed 
the  poles  of  the  fence  into  the  air,  but  they  were  quickly  put  in  place 
by  the  crowd  outside. 

Red  handkerchiefs  were  shaken  at  his  head;  some  pulled  his  tail, 
while  one  man,  who  was  engaged  talking  to  another,  found  himself  sud- 
denly raised  off  his  feet  by  the  horns  of  the  bull  under  his  camecita. 
He  was  not  hurt,  for  by  this  time  the  bull  had  been  teased  so  much  he 
was  tired  down,  when  he  was  hissed  out  of  the  ring  and  let  loose,  to  find 
his  way  back  to  the  plain. 

This  was  great  sport  for  the  Indians ; they  seemed  particularly  to  en- 
joy the  fun.  Great  jars  of  chicha  had  been  provided  by  the  authorities 
of  the  town,  and  passed  round  among  those  who  wanted  to  drink. 
There  were  few  who  declined,  and  as  soon  as  the  bull  was  let  out,  bas- 
kets of  bread,  made  of  corn  and  yuca  meal,  were  emptied  from  the 
balcony  over  the  heads  of  the  people,  who  scrambled  after  it.  The 
manner  in  which  this  bread  was  presented  to  the  Indians  from  the  gov- 
ernment store,  was  the  same  as  throwing  com  to  poultry  elsewhere. 
They  scrambled  for  it  amidst  the  dust  that  had  just  been  torn  up  by  the 
hoofs  of  the  enraged  bull. 

After  the  scramble  was  over  another  bull  was  entered,  and  the  sport 
continued,  while  a third  was  being  saddled.  An  Indian  mounted,  hold- 
ing to  a strap  placed  round  the  breast  of  the  bull ; when  they  let  him 
loose,  the  heaving  and  setting  of  the  animal  was  most  laughable ; the 
man’s  head  was  heavily  nodded  and  jerked  backwards  and  forwards  as 
the  bull  reared  or  kicked  up  behind.  It  was  like  the  tossing  of  a small 
fore-and-aft  schooner  in  a heavy  seaway.  The  roars  of  laughter  from 
the  Indians  were  amusing;  they  highly  enjoyed  the  saint’s  day  of  their 
city  after  the  programme  arranged  by  church  and  state. 

The  good  order  at  all  times  maintained,  the  greetings  of  the  people, 
and  cleanliness  of  the  city  are  owing  to  certain  internal  regulations. 

Fratos,  an  old  Indian,  is  considered  the  rich  man  of  Trinidad  ; he  is 


244 


REGULATIONS  OF  THE  TOWN. 


tlie  correjidor  and  commander  of  the  town  ; all  the  other  officers  among 
the  Indians  are  under  his  orders. 

Mariano  Cayuba,  another  respected  Indian,  seventy-three  years  of  age, 
holds  the  office  of  “casique,”  which  is  second  in  command.  Cayuba 
receives  all  reports — how  many  sick,  and  all  deaths ; the  condition  of 
the  town,  as  to  cleanliness  and  good  order;  how  many  canoes  in 
port ; their  arrivals  and  departures  ; and  the  state  of  the  cattle  on  the 
plains.  When  Cayuba  goes  to  prayers  in  the  evening  with  his  wife  and 
children,  he  stops  at  Fratos’s  house  and  tells  him  all ; makes  a regular 
report  of  everything  that  is  going  on,  be  it  good  news  or  bad.  Fratos 
is  held  responsible  for  the  good  order  of  things  by  the  prefect,  to  whom 
he  also  pqys  a daily  visit,  for  the  purpose  of  posting  him  up  in  regular 
order  by  word  of  mouth. 

Cayuba  receives  his  reports  from  the  following  officers  : one  “ inten- 
dente,”  who  oversees  portions  of  the  public  business,  with  one  “ alferes 
four  “ aguacils,”  (constables  ;)  eighteen  “ comisarios,”  who  carry  orders, 
keep  watch  at  night,  and  are  employed  on  duty  about  the  prefectura — 
one  of  them  is  head  waiter  at  the  table  ; two  “ policia  ” officers,  whose 
duty  it  is  to  see  the  bop  of  the  town  supply  water  for  drinking  during 
the  day.  The  boys  are  marched  out  of  town  early  in  the  morning  with 
earthen  jars  on  their  heads — in  the  wet  season  to  the  stream,  and  in  the 
dry  to  the  lake.  Boys  don’t  like  such  -work,  but  they  grow  fast,  ■yvhen  this 
labor  falls  to  others.  Four  “fiscales”  superintend  the  streets  and  houses ; 
see  that  they  are  kept  clean  and  in  order.  A fiscale,  in  olden  time,  was 
a ministerial  officer — an  attorney  general.  Sixteen  “ capitanos,”  who 
command  gangs  of  one  hundred  Indians  each — these  are  working  men. 
Whenever  the  government  of  Bolivia  requires  a house  to  be  built,  a bridge 
made,  or  a sugar  plantation  and  sugar-cane  gathered  and  manufactured, 
an  order  is  given  to  that  effect  to  Fratos,  who  calls  for  one  or  sixteen  cap- 
tains’ companies,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  they  muster  their  men  into 
immediate  service,  for  which  they  receive  no  pay,  as  it  is  for  their  coun- 
try they  are  laboring. 

A “ teniente  de  estancia,”  or  mayor-domo  de  estancias,  overlooks  the 
cattle  in  the  prairie ; keeps  accoimts,  as  near  as  he  can,  of  their  number ; 
what  their  condition  is ; whether  the  floods  and  the  tigers  destroy  them  ; 
what  is  the  state  of  the  pasture-lands.  When  he  finds  the  grass  dead, 
he  fires  it,  and  a young  pasture  springs  up,  as  the  rain  begins  to  fall, 
and  fattens  the  cattle.  He  instructs  the  Indians  how  to  build  enclosures 
for  the  calves,  which  keep  them  from  running  wild.  This  brings  the 
cattle  in  from  the  plains,  when  their  bags  of  milk  pain  them— so  the 
calves  and  people  are  both  supplied  without  the  trouble  of  driving  in 


REGULATIONS  OF  THE  TOWN. 


245 


the  cattle.  An  “ alcalde  ” takes  charge  of  all  the  canoes  in  the  ports ; at- 
tends to  their  repairs  ; gives  orders  when  others  are  to  be  built  or  dug 
out ; appoints  proper  crews  to  them,  when,  through  sickness  or  other- 
wise, the  men  are  called  away.  He  reports  to  Cayuba  the  state  of  com- 
merce ; how  much  cacao  goes  up  the  country,  and  how  much  salt  comes 
down — in  fact  he  is  the  “ old  salt  ” of  the  tribe. 

Under  this  system  of  regulations  the  city  is  kept  in  order ; no  quar- 
relling or  fighting  is  ever  seen  in  the  street.  As  soon  as  a person  is 
taken  sick,  those  whose  duty  it  is  to  attend  to  that  department  give  aid 
and  assistance  to  the  family ; people  are  sent  to  the  hospital  as  nurses, 
and  a doctor  of  medicine  is  furnished  by  government.  The  daily  duties 
are  performed  by  all  with  so  much  regularity  that  no  one  seems  to  be 
over-worked,  and  all  appear  to  be  accommodated,  for  every  Indian  man 
is  obliged  by  the  regulations  to  do  something ; there  are  no  loungers 
here  except  the  creoles.  One  Indian  goes  a voyage  on  the  river ; an- 
other is  obliged  to  cultivate  a chacra  or  farm,  tend  cattle,  cut  timber,  or 
learn  some  trade ; while  the  boys  go  to  a school  teacher  provided  for  them 
by  the  government. 

The  women  are  free  to  do  as  they  please,  which  suits  them  best.  They 
are  volunteer  workers  to  pick  cotton,  spin,  and  weave  it  by  hand.  The 
frame  for  the  weaver  is  a simple  wooden  one,  which  stands  upright  in  a 
corner  of  the  house,  where  the  women  work  at  it  when  they  have  the  cot- 
ton spun,  by  twisting  it  suspended  from  the  hand  to  a ball,  the  thread 
being  wound  on  a slight  stick;  both  spinning  and  weaving  appear  to  us 
very  slow  work,  but  time  is  never  considered  by  the  Indian  ; he  works 
as  though  he  lived  for  the  present,  and  thought  more  of  the  past  than 
of  the  future. 

The  prefect  has  a secretary  and  clerk ; a captain  of  police  superintends 
the  whole  department  of  the  Beni,  and  reports  any  internal  disturbances ; 
he  keeps  watch  upon  all  people  to  see  there  are  no  revolutionary  schemes, 
and  receives  twenty-five  cents  from  every  person  wishing  to  leave,  for 
a written  passport  granting  permission  s©  to  do.  When  a traveller 
wants  a boat  and  crew,  he  applies  to  the  captain  of  police,  who  sees 
that  the  proper  price  is  paid  to  the  men,  and  no  more.  He  is  a creole* 
like  the  clerk  of  the  prefect.  The  only  other  creole  officer  in  the  town 
is  a justice  of  the  peace. 

For  the  last  ten  years  the  Indians  of  the  Beni  have  paid  annual 
contribution.  Before  that  time  the  government  supplied  them  with 
clothing,  fed  and  lodged  them,  and  received  into  the  public  treasury  the 
whole  products  of  their  labors.  The  Indians  very  properly  became  dis- 


246 


CAYUBA,  A MO.TOS  INDIAN. 


satisfied,  and  it  was  found  advisable  to  change  the  order  of  things,  and 
to  tax  them. 

Cayuba  was  the  wise  man  of  the  Mojos  tribe.  lie  was  respected  for 
his  intelligence,  while  Fratos  claimed  rank  over  him  on  account  of  bis 
wealth.  This  Cayuba  thought  unjust;  while  he  performed  his  duty 
well,  and  his  house  was  the  gay  one  of  the  town,  he  was  constantly 
reminded  by  the  most  important  man  about  him  that  he  should  be 
made  correjidor.  He  was  a planter,  and  owned  a large  chacra  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  lake.  The  prefect  took  me  to  Cayuba’s  and  gave 
me  a formal  introduction  to  him.  His  first  question  was:  “What  is 
your  name?”  On  being  told,  he  sneezed,  shook  his  head,  and  said, 
“Mucha  questa.” 

When  the  arrieros  reach  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  they  point  to  the 
tops  of  the  Andes,  and  describe  the  difficulties  of  gaining  the  summit 
with  the  cacao,  by  saying  “mucha  questa” — much  up-hill.  Cayuba 
used  the  same  expression  to  explain  to  me  in  Spanish  how  difficult 
English  sounded  to  his  ear.  He  looked  intently  at  me  and  said — 
“Another  language?  Where  is  your  country?”  I pointed  to  the  north. 
“Ah,”  said  he;  “have  any  women  there?”  The  Indians  think  strangers 
travel  about  alone  because  they  have  no  women  at  home  to  take  care  of 
them. 

Cayuba  often  came  to  see  me.  He  spoke  a little  Spanish,  and  was 
so  anxious  to  know  all  about  my  country,  we  became  great  friends.  I 
asked  him  whether  the  people  were  happy.  He  said,  “Yes;  but  we 
are  all  slaves  to  the  white  man ; we  used  to  have  plenty  of  cattle  and 
fine  horses.  The  white  man  comes  from  Santa  Cruz  and  drives  them 
all  away.” 

By  the  laws  of  the  land,  Indians  are  punished  by  whipping  on  the 
bare  back  with  a raw-hide  rope — twelve  stripes  for  insubordination, 
drunkenness,  or  idleness.  The  custom  among  the  authorities  has  been  to 
punish  whenever  they  deem  it  proper,  with  as  many  lashes  as  they  please, 
though  there  is  less  punishment  now  than  in  former  times.  One  prefect, 
who  was  exceedingly  tyrannical  in  his  behavior  to  these  people,  was 
recalled,  as  the  Indians  all  signed  a petition  against  him  to  the  Presi- 
dent. He  was  displaced  and  afterwards  banished  to  Brazil.  On  the 
voyage  down  the  Mamore  river,  the  crew  filled  the  boat  with  water  at 
midnight  while  the  ex-prefect  was  sleeping.  They  swam  to  the  bank, 
and  he  was  drowned. 

Cayuba  introduced  me  to  his  wife — a fine-looking,  fat,  cheerful  In- 
dian. Juana  Jua  Cayuba  was  very  industrious  ; she  superintended  the 
hired  women  moulding  earthen  jars,  which  are  used  in  manufacturing 


MARIA  NO  S A . CASEM  I R A NACOPEARU.  JOSE  VICENTE  CAYUBA  JUANA  JUA 


CUSTOMS  OF  THE  CREOLES. 


247 


sugar  ; her  house  was  kept  in  neat  order  ; she  was  constantly  employed 
weaving  cotton  hamacs,  table-cloths,  sheets,  and  bed-spreads  ; she  wore 
two  gold  chains  round  her  neck,  to  which  were  suspended  a silver  cross 
and  a medal ; she  wore  ear-rings  of  pure  native  gold,  and  on  Sundays  a 
very  respectable  man-like  black  beaver  hat ; she  was  a strict  church 
woman,  and  kept  Cayuba  in  that  direction,  who  sometimes  shyed  off  or 
overslept  himself  in  the  hamac,  which  was  slung  across  the  room. 

The  Indian  men  take  to  the  European  fancy  of  dress.  On  Sundays, 
before  the  authorities  call  upon  the  prefect,  they  take  off  the  “ camecita,” 
and  put  on  trousers,  coat,  vest,  boots,  and  hat ; each  one  carries  a cane, 
the  signal  of  his  office.  On  such  occasions  they  walk  with  the  most 
amusing  air  of  importance.  Cloth  clothes  are  very  different  from  their 
usual  cool  dress,  though  they  undergo  the  greatest  amount  of  warming 
rather  than  take  them  off  before  sun-set.  All  the  discarded  black  beaver 
hats,  which  have  been  battered  and  bent  on  the  road  down  the  moun- 
tains, find  a market  here.  All  the  queer-looking  black  frock  and  swal- 
low-tailed dress-coats,  that  are  made  in  the  country,  seem  to  have  con- 
centrated and  are  displayed  before  the  public  on  state  occasions,  in  this 
place.  The  native  dress,  worn  by  the  Indians,  is  well  adapted  to  the 
women,  but  the  men  work  quite  as  awkwardly  in  camecitas  as  they  ap- 
pear in  thick  cloth  clothes. 

Cayuba  was  kind  enough  to  send  us  milk  and  fruits ; when  I asked 
him  what  I should  present  him  in  return,  he  said,  “ a black  silk  hand- 
kerchief.” He  was  fitted  out  complete.  The  interest  Indians  expressed 
in  sketches  of  their  country,  their  town,  or  themselves,  was  remarkable. 
Cayuba  was  much  surprised  at  daguerreotype  likenesses  of  two  ladies. 
He  came  to  my  room  next  day  with  a party  of  old  men  and  his  wife, 
to  request  they  might  be  shown  the  women  “ of  my  tribe.”  He  looked 
at  the  pictures,  then  at  his  wife,  saying  he  would  like  to  swap  her  off 
for  the  original  of  that  likeness ; and  then  turned  to  me  and  said — 
“ Have  you  got  plenty  of  them  there  ?”  pointing  to  the  north,  and  look- 
ing veiy  intent. 

Before  the  break  of  day  the  whole  population,  except  the  creoles,  are 
upon  their  feet ; as  day  dawns,  drummers,  fifers,  and  fiddlers,  assemble 
at  the  church,  and  beat  reveille.  The  church  bells  are  hunjr  under  the 
roof  of  a small  steeple  near  by ; as  they  ring,  the  Indians  flock  to  morn- 
ing prayers.  The  year  round  this  form  is  gone  through,  as  it  was  ori- 
ginally established  by  the  Jesuits.  "While  kneeling  in  church,  the  music 
commingles  with  their  songs  of  praise,  as  the  morning  sun  throws  his 
light  upon  the  city. 

Every  evening  the  same  ceremony,  as  the  sun  descends  over  the  An- 


24S 


MIDNIGHT  WALK  THROUGH  THE  PLAZA. 


des,  at  8 o’clock,  on  clear  nights,  the  boys  of  the  town  kneel  by  the 
large  wooden  cross  in  the  centre  of  the  plaza,  and  sing  a hymn  before 
the  inhabitants  retire.  A band  of  music  accompanies  their  voices.  As 
the  bright  moon  lights  up  their  world,  these  little  boy9  shout  their 
verses  of  thankfulness  for  the  blessings  of  the  day  just  past,  and  pray 
that  God  will  protect  his  people  in  their  sleep.  There  was  something 
agreeably  impressive  in  these  forms  of  the  church  to  attract  the  atten- 
tion of  the  Indians.  This  daily  service  was  pastime  for  them ; their  true 
natures  were  worked  upon,  and  we  found  them  performing  such  religious 
duties  in  a willing,  grave,  sincere  manner,  while  the  rules  permit  them 
after  prayers  to  frolic.  We  have  never  seen  more  sober  faces  than 
among  these  Indians,  as  they  walk  to  and  from  church ; nor  have  we 
ever  heard  a more  hearty  roar  of  laughter  at  a bull-fight  than  in  the 
plaza  of  Trinidad  after  mass. 

Marriage  ceremonies  are  performed  by  the  priests,  according  to  Cath- 
olic form.  Before  the  appearance  of  the  Jesuits,  such  were  not  known 
among  the  Indians,  except  in  their  own  hearts. 

We  had  been  detained  some  time  in  Trinidad.  I became  much 
troubled  at  the  idea  of  being  fastened  up  amidst  disease  during  a long 
rainy  season,  doubting  by  which  route  we  were  to  find  an  outlet  to  the 
Atlantic.  Kept  awake  after  midnight;  to  drive  away  thoughts  of  the 
morrow,  I got  up  and  walked  out  into  the  plaza.  The  night  was  clear 
and  moonlight ; the  only  noise  at  first  heard  was  that  made  by  the 
bats — the  air  was  filled  with  different  species  of  these  night-birds,  flying 
in  all  directions,  feeding  upon  musquitoes ; the  tops  of  the  houses  were 
covered  with  them ; and  so  clear  did  they  keep  the  air,  as  they  darted 
close  about  me,  that  there  were  no  insects  left  to  attack  the  inhabitants, 
except  those  protected  from  the  bats  in  the  bed-rooms  of  the  families. 
I supposed  the  whole  population  was  sleeping,  but  it  was  not  so.  As  I 
walked  slowly  round  the  square,  when  I came  to  a creole’s  house,  silver 
and  gold  coin  were  heard  to  jingle  on  the  inside  of  the  door-way.  The 
silent  dealing  of  cards  was  going  on  ; bets  were  being  made  by  count- 
ing out  the  coins.  The  creole  portion  of  the  population  were  gambling. 
As  the  comisario  struck  one  by  the  bell  at  the  cathedral,  the  working 
population  slept.  Indians  have  no  time  for  such  occupation ; their 
games  are  played  at  the  weaving-frame  and  sugar-field.  The  supply  of 
bread-stuff  is  drawn  from  the  laborer  of  the  plains  of  Mojos ; the  silver 
is  chiselled  from  the  rocks  of  the  mountains  by  the  Indians;  and  yet 
the  most  intelligent  people  of  Bolivia  ask  how  it  is  there  is  so  much 
progress  and  improvement  in  other  parts  of  the  world  and  so  little  in 
Bolivia.  • 


VISIT  TO  LORETO. 


249 


The  creoles  of  Trinidad  are  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  We  never 
beheld  such  a rough-looking  set — seemed  to  he  the  very  outcasts  of  the 
nation.  There  are  few  married  people  among  them ; some  of  the  men 
may  have  wives  and  families  on  the  Andes,  but  they  live  here  without 
them. 

The  creoles  dress  in  calicoes  and  silks,  straw  hats  and  leather  shoes, 
with  silk  stockings.  They  prefer  the  foreign  manufactured  goods  to  the 
white  cotton  cloths  of  the  Indians,  except  for  the  table  or  hamacs,  and 
towels,  which  the  Indians  make  to  perfection. 

The  Indians  seem  to  take  pride  in  acting  as  servants.  They  cook, 
wash,  and  bring  firewood  to  the  whites  for  a trifle. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17  th  of  June,  the  prefect  made  up  a party, 
inviting  a Brazilian,  an  Englishman,  and  myself  to  join  him  in  a visit 
to  Loreto,  twelve  leagues  south-southeast  from  Trinidad.  Our  horses 
were  small,  but  in  good  order,  though  badly  broken.  It  is  the  custom 
to  lasso  a horse  in  the  pampa,  saddle,  bridle,  and  mount  him.  Should 
a man  he  thrown,  no  harm  is  done ; he  lights  on  the  grass  or  in  the  mud. 
Indians  had  been  sent  ahead  by  the  prefect,  at  daylight,  with  our  bed- 
ding, and  table  furniture,.  The  day  was  clear  and  pleasant  as  we 
rode  along  the  level  road  over  the  prairie.  One  of  the  comisarios  led 
the  way  on  a little  stunted  mule.  He  rode  well,  with  his  big  toes  touch- 
ing the  large  wooden  stirrups  ; his  legs* and  neck  were  bare  ; a scarlet 
skull  cap  on  his  head,  and  white  camecita  wrapped  gracefully  round 
him.  He  made  quite  a picture  galloping  over  the  plain,  which  was 
spotted  with  clusters  of  bushes,  palm  trees,  or  a pool  of  clear  water. 
Here  and  there  the  view  was  uninterrupted,  and  the  eye  fell  upon  a 
clearly  defined  grassy  horizon.  A wmoden  bridge  in  the  road  proved  so 
much  out  of  order,  that  we  wet  our  feet  in  wading  the  lazy  stream, 
when  we  halted  to  hear  a distressing  story  from  the  Brazilian,  who  was 
the  life  of  the  party.  It  seems  the  evening  before  a fellow  countryman 
had  sent  him  a couple  of  bottles  for  his  saddle  bags,  to  be  opened  on  the 
road.  Don  Antonio  examined  a bottle,  which  proved  to  contain  varnish. 
His  countryman  was  a cabinet-maker  in  Trinidad,  and  had  evidently 
made  an  unfortunate  mistake.  It  was  not  until  long  after  that  I under- 
stood why  the  prefect  appeared  so  much  displeased  at  the  circumstance. 
The  cabinet-maker  had  some  difficulty,  and  the  prefect  had  ordered  him 
to  leave  the  department  of  the  Beni,  and  go  home  to  Brazil.  Don 
Antonio  succeeded  in  persuading  the  prefect  to  let  the  man  take  pass- 
ports for  the  department  of  Santa  Cruz,  as  he  had  been  a number  of 
years  in  Bolivia.  Owning  property  in  both  places,  he  was  obliged  to 
sell  out  at  Trinidad  at  a great  loss,  and  had  the  prefect  insisted  upon  his 


250 


INCIDENTS  ON  THE  ROAD. 


going  directly  to  Brazil,  lie  probably  would  have  lost  what  he  owned  in 
Santa  Cruz.  The  prefect  believed  the  cabinet-maker  had  sent  the  bottles 
of  material  used  for  mechanical  purposes,  instead  of  those  for  medicinal, 
on  purpose  to  varnish  him.  The  honest  mechanic,  it  is  supposed,  took 
this  opportunity  of  showing  his  ill  will  towards  the  authorities,  who 
have  orders  from  the  supreme  government  not  to  be  too  smooth  with 
foreigners , but  to  send  them  to  Brazil  immediately  upon  the  least  sus- 
picion of  misbehavior.  Liberty,  property,  and  even  life  hinge  on  the 
will  of  the  prefect  of  this  department.  The  power  of  the  prefects  of  all 
the  other  divisions  of  the  territories  in  Peru  and- Bolivia  are  great  enough, 
but  none  are  so  far  from  the  eye  of  the  government  as  this,  w’hich  is  geo- 
graphically independent  of  the  mountainous  regions.  The  authorities 
have  unlimited  powers,  over  foreigners  particularly. 

Four  leagues  travel  brought  us  to  a hacienda;  we  dismounted,  after 
having  toiled  through  herd  grass,  mud,  and  water  up  to  the  horses’  knees. 
The  water  is  gradually  drawing  off  the  lands,  it  has  settled  among  the 
grass,  and  now  is  perfectly  transparent.  For  miles  we  waded  through 
it  a foot  deep  ; then  the  land  swells  up  and  becomes  dry.  Where  we 
find  water,  there  fowls  are  in  great  abundance — flocks  of  ducks  and  long- 
legged  cranes.  As  we  rise  on  the  dry  soil,  deer  start  from  our  path, 
and  the  ostrich  walks  slowly  off,  holding  his  head  down  below  the  tops 
of  the  grass,  as  though  we  did  not  see  his  tail  of  beautiful  and  valuable 
feathers. 

The  two  houses  at  the  hacienda  were  surrounded  with  plantain  and 
papaya  trees.  There  were  several  enclosures  for  cattle,  one  of  which 
contained  a great  number  of  calves;  they,  with  the  Indian  women  and 
dogs,  had  used  up  all  the  morning’s  milk.  The  Englishman,  therefore, 
drew  the  cork  of  a bottle  of  wine,  the  prefect  produced  bread,  but 
cheese  had  been  left  behind.  A large  pot  of  beef  was  boiling  on  the 
fire;  it  was  so  tough  and  insipid,  for  the  want  of  salt,  we  could  not  eat  it; 
while  the  “ peste”  remains,  we  doubt  whether  it  is  healthy  food. 

After  leaving  the  hacienda,  with  its  two-storied  houses,  we  waded  one 
league  through  water  two  feet  deep,  spread  all  through  the  grass  on  the 
plain  as  far  as  we  could  see  in  every  direction.  Birds  of  most  beautiful 
plumage  flew  up  about  us,  and  the  party  became  pretty  well  ducked. 
We  would  have  done  much  better  in  canoes  than  in  saddles.  Reach- 
ing dry  land  we  pushed  on  foot,  in  single  file,  to  the  river  Yvare.  An 
Indian  from  the  opposite  side  obeyed  the  call  of  our  guide.  The 
horses  were  unsaddled ; we  all  embarked  with  the  riding  gear  in  a 
canoe  and  paddled  over,  as  the  horses  swam  to  the  opposite  bank. 
While  the  Indians  saddled  up,  we  bathed  in  the  stream  with  the  greatest 


WILD  ANIMALS  OF  THE  PLAINS. 


251 


number  of  snorting  alligators  above  and  below  us.  The  stream  is  nar- 
row, without  current,  making  it  difficult  to  tell  which  was  up  or  down. 
The  banks  were  twenty  feet  high,  and  yet  they  are  overflowed  in  the 
wet  season.  The  water  was  dark  colored,  though  clear. 

At  the  house  of  tho  ferryman  we  met  his  old  Indian  wife,  who  culti- 
vated a few  cotton-bushes  about  her  hut,  with  some  tobacco  plants. 
The  cotton  is  produced  from  a bush  eight  to  ten  feet  high.  It  is  diffi- 
cult to  find  a person  who  has  noticed  how  long  these  bushes  will  pro- 
duce without  replanting.  The  impression  is  seven  years.  The  same 
tobacco  plant  yields  from  two  to  three  years.  The  hut  was  shaded  by 
a number  of  orange  trees,  from  which  the  woman  gathered  us  most 
delicious  fruit.  There  is  nothing  like  them  on  the  coast  of  Brazil  nor 
at  the  Cape  de  Verde  islands.  The  skins  are  thin,  almost  bursting  with 
the  juice.  The  trees  were  as  largo  as  a moderate-sized  apple  tree,  and 
loaded  with  oranges,  while  the  sweet  blossoms  bloomed  for  another  crop. 
Plantains  form  the  bread  of  this  country ; near  every  house  the  trees 
are  found.  This  hut  stands  on  the  northern  boundary  of  what  are 
called  the  Plains  of  Loreto.  Here  the  land  is  somewhat  higher ; the  path 
is  smooth,  and  as  the  afternoon  is  passing,  we  hurry  on.  To  our  right 
a drove  of  cattle  look  up ; fierce-lookmg  bulls  stand  between  us  and 
their  mates;  they  are  not  very  amiable  fellows,  and  often  attack  the 
lonely  traveller;  but  their  numbers  have  been  reduced  by  the  thieving 
creoles  from  Santa  Cruz,  who  come  here  and  take  them  off  by  droves. 
There  was  a time  when  sixty  thousand  head  of  cattle  were  counted  on 
these  plains.  As  the  doe  leaped  through  the  grass,  following  its  young, 
the  peccary — a sort  of  wild  hog — jumped  up  under  the  horses’  noses, 
and’with  his  civilized  grunt  and  short  tail,  rushed  along  the  same  path. 
Tigers  are  found  in  great  numbers ; their  skins  are  sold  in  the  market 
of  Trinidad.  As  we  rode  by  a cluster  of  trees  on  our  right,  we  heard 
a bellowing  bull,  and  saw  the  wild  cattle  rushing  to  his  aid.  I was  told 
the  tiger  leaps  from  his  hiding-place  in  the  grass,  catches  the  bull  by 
the  ear,  fastens  his  fore-claws  securely  in  the  neck  and  his  hind-claws  to 
the  fore-shoulder;  his  head  is  then  just  behind  the  horns  of  the  bull, 
and  his  tail  hangs  down  by  the  side  of  the  fore-leg.  In  this  position 
the  tiger  commences  to  cut  into  the  great  vessels  of  the  neck,  while  the 
bull  runs  through  the  pampa,  his  head  high  up  in  the  air,  bellowing 
with  pain.  Unless  the  herd  who  follow  to  help,  gather  round  and  attack 
the  tiger,  he  soon  brings  the  prey  upon  his  knees.  The  suffering  animal 
bleeds  to  death  surrounded  by  his  kind,  while  the  panting  tiger  prowls 
about  at  a short  distance,  knowing  that  when  the  bull  dies  the  cattle 
will  disperse,  and  he  can  then  enjoy  the  feast.  These  tigers  sometimes 


252 


WILD  ANIMALS  OF  THE  PLAINS. 


attack'  a man  when  he  is  alone,  but  seldom  when  in  company.  Few 
persons  escape  when  engaged  in  the  death-struggle  with  him.  The 
Indians  usually  go  together,  or  take  dogs  along,  who  attract  his  attention, 
and  prevent  his  seeking  an  engagement  with  the  man.  The  tigers  make 
dreadful  work  among  the  calves  when  they  are  allowed  to  go  abroad  in 
the  grass.  They  are  generally  kept  up  in  the  day  and  watched  by  the 
Indians  and  dogs.  At  night  they  are  put  with  their  mothers  in  an 
enclosure,  where  a tiger  dare  not  go.  His  only  chance  of  killing  cattle 
is  between  the  time  he  catches  and  when  the  herd  come  up  to  the 
sufferer,  who  rushes  off  at  full  speed  the  moment  the  tiger  touches  him- 
The  work  of  death  is  speedily  done. 

As  the  sun  was  going  down,  we  came  upon  a plain  stretching  far  off 
to  the  west.  Deer  were  grazing  in  pairs.  We  all  put  spurs  to  our 
horses  and  gave  chase,  but  they  showed  their  white  tails  and  bounded 
out  of  reach  of  a rifle.  The  horses  soon  became  worried  down  running 
through  the  grass.  The  tapir,  or  Brazil  elk,  is  found  on  these  plains, 
keeping  close  to  the  river.  It  is  called  “gran  bestia”  by  the  Spaniards. 
Its  color  is  iron  gray,  with  a short  coat  of  coarse  hair.  The  meat  makes 
very  tender  beef.  The  hoof  is  divided  into  three  parts  like  toes.  On 
the  inside  of  the  fore-foot  there  is  a fourth  toe ; and  the  hind  legs  double 
up  at  the  joint  like  those  of  the  llama  and  elephant.  The  strength  of 
this  animal  is  very  great.  The  Indians  sometimes  lasso  him,  but  take 
care  not  to  have  the  end  of  the  lasso  fastened  to  the  saddle,  as  is  usual, 
for  the  tapir  will  manage  three  or  four  horsemen  with  ease.  The  tapir 
lives  on  grass,  and  although  he  is  harmless,  the  Indians  are  excited  upon 
meeting  one,  as  though  they  feared  the  animal’s  strength.  He  can  only 
be  taken  by  a ball  or  arrow.  Although  his  skin  is  thick,  he  is  not  tfery 
difficult  to  kill.  In  Brazil  there  are  great  numbers  of  these  animals. 
The  Indians  say  the  tapirs  and  the  mules  are  cousins,  because  their 
heads  somewhat  resemble  each  other  when  looked  at  full  in  the  face. 
The  tapir  holds  his  head  about  as  high  as  a mule ; his  hinder  parts  are 
more  like  the  elephant. 

Night  overtook  us  amidst  the  beasts  of  the  prairie.  As  the  road  was 
reported  dry  by  the  guide,  we  galloped  in  a line  for  a long  time  through 
the  silent  plains,  and  finally  reached  the  small  town  of  Loreto.  On  the 
outskirts  we  passed  enclosures  filled  with  cattle.  It  was  after  eight 
o’clock,  and  the  inhabitants  had  gone  to  bed.  A death-like  silence 
reigned  as  we  dismounted  at  the  door  of  the  government  house,  where 
Indians  had  already  arrived  with  our  beds  and  provisions. 

The  correjidor  was  a fine-looking  Indian,  dressed  in  jacket  and  trow- 
sers,  becoming  to  him.  Being  of  domestic  materials,  he  was  more  at 


LOBE  TO INHABITANTS. 


253 


his  ease  than  those  who  get  into  tight-fitting  old  cloth  clothes.  Bed- 
steads, chairs,  and  tables  were  put  into  different  rooms,  with  jars  of 
fresh  water.  Indians  came  rubbing  their  eyes,  and,  looking  at  us, 
smilingly  offering  to  assist  the  correjidor.  A fire  was  kindled,  water 
heated,  and  a first-rate  chicken  soup  jnade,  while  the  cotton  hamacs 
were  slung  across  the  room.  A white  tabk-cloth  was  spread ; after 
soup,  coffee  was  produced,  and  the  party  rested  in  the  hamacs,  with 
home-made  cigars. 

The  day’s  ride  has  been  a fatiguing  one.  The  motion  of  a horse 
wading  in  water  is  unpleasant  and  harassing,  both  to  man  and  beast. 
This  journey  to  Trinidad  cannot  be  made  on  horseback  during  the  rainy 
season.  The  roads  are  navigable  for  canoes  half  the  year,  when  trav- 
elling is  much  more  easy  than  when  the  season  is  called  dry.  The 
Indian  builds  his  hut  on  those  elevated  places  which  remain  islands ; 
when  the  great  flood  of  waters  come  down,  crickets,  lizards,  and  snakes 
crawl  into  his  thatched  roof ; droves  of  wild  cattle  surround  his  habita- 
tion. Armadilloes  rub  their  armor  against  the  pottery  in  the  corner 
of  his  hut,  while  the  tiger  and  the  6tag  stand  tamely  by.  The  alligator 
comes  sociably  up,  when  the  “gran  bestia”  seats  himself  on  the  steps  by 
the  door.  The  animal  family  congregate  thus  strangely  together  under 
the  influence  of  the  annual  deluge.  Those  of  dry  land  meet  where  the 
amphibious  are  forced  to  go,  and  as  the  rains  pour  down,  they  patiently 
wait.  Birds  fly  in  and  light  upon  the  trees  and  top  of  the  hut,  while 
fish  rise  from  out  of  the  rivers  and  explore  the  prairie  lands.  The 
animals  begin  to  seek  a place  of  refuge  in  the  month  of  January,  when 
the  soil  becomes  gradually  covered.  As  the  waters  subside  in  March, 
they  spread  out  over  the  drying  earth,  and  pasture  upon  young  grasses, 
which  spring  up  upon  the  passing  away  of  the  flood.  At  these  annual 
meetings  of  the  beasts,  birds  live  upon  fish  and  upon  each  other.  All 
the  carniverous  animals,  man  included,  fare  the  best ; while  homed 
cattle,  tapirs,  deer,  and  horses  suffer  for  want,  and  become  an  easy  prey. 
As  the  fluctuation  is  uncertain,  many  are  drowned,  or  die  from  exhaus- 
tion in  running  about  with  the  water  up  to  their  chins,  out  of  sight  or 
reach  of  shelter. 

The  Indians  of  Mojos  are  not  friendly  to  the  Spanish  race  at  heart ; 
that  they  love  and  respect  the  influences  and  arrangements  of  the  church 
there  is  no  doubt.  The  Indians  of  Loreto  are  of  the  Mojos  tribe,  and 
are  remarkable  for  beauty  and  intelligence.  The  men  are  very  indepen- 
dent. One  of  the  most  wealthy  went  to  his  chacra,  while  the  prefect 
was  here,  and  remained  there,  not  only  because  he  disliked  him,  but  all 
the  creole  race. 


254 


DISEASES AN  INDIAN  FAMILY. 


Loreto  has  somewhat  a ruinous  appearance.  The  streets  and  plaza  are 
filled  with  grass,  on  which  hogs,  goats,  and  sheep  pasture.  A small  stream 
runs  close  by  the  town,  and  supplies  the  people  with  water.  A wooden 
bridge  is  thrown  across  it,  over  which  the  Indians  pass  to  their  chacras. 
There  are  but  few  creoles  living  among  them.  The  population  is  poor, 
and  the  hospital  filled  with  cases  of  small-pox.  While  walking  through 
the  town  we  saw  too  nmn  evidently  affected  with  consumption — one 
of  them  a silversmith.  We  met  an  old  woman  ninety  years  of  age, 
without  teeth,  her  hair  as  white  as  snow ; she  embraced  us  all.  Don 
Antonio  returned  the  compliment  with  so  much  warmth,  that  the  old 
woman’s  life  seemed  in  danger,  to  the  great  amusement  of  all  the  young 
girls. 

"There  were  a number  of  cases  of  chills  and  fever,  one  of  them  a black 
man.  There  are  said  to  be  about  two  thousand  fugitive  slaves  from 
Brazil  in  the  territory  of  Bolivia.  By  the  first  article  of  the  last  con- 
stitution they  are  free  and  equal  with  the  white  people  the  moment  they 
enter.  The  negro  of  Brazil,  in  Bolivia,  has  more  rights  and  privileges 
granted  to  him  by  law,  than  the  Indian  on  his  own  soil. 

We  visited  an  old  Indian  woman  with  a house  full  of  daughters ; 
these  Indian  girls  are  beautiful  and  much  respected ; several  of  the 
creoles  have  desired  to  marry  them,  but  the  father  is  displeased  with 
the  whites,  and  refuses  to  permit  his  daughter  to  marry  any  but  a man 
of  their  own  race.  The  house  was  furnished  better  than  any  Indian’s 
house  we  had  met ; their  beds  were  neatly  curtained ; floors  partly  car- 
peted ; neat  white  hamacs  and  table  cloths.  One  of  the  daughters  was 
decidedly  beautiful ; her  complexion  white  and  clear,  with  regular  fea- 
tures ; her  eyes  large  and  deep  black,  like  her  hair  ; she  was  of  middle 
size,  with  a most  perfect  figure ; hands  and  feet  exquisitely  shaped,  and 
teeth  perfectly  white  ; her  manner  was  modest  and  shrinking,  while,  at 
the  same  time,  she  spoke  Spanish  remarkably  well ; attention  had  been 
paid  to  her  education.  This  family  of  Indians  were  more  respected  by 
both  white  and  red  than  any  other  in  the  Beni ; yet  the  father  would 
have  as  little  to  do  as  possible  with  the  authorities.  He  was  a leading 
man  among  the  Indians,  and  did  not  hesitate  to  make  them  acquainted 
with  his  opinion  of  the  wrongs  every  day  practised  against  the  tribe. 
We  were  unfortunate  in  not  seeing  this  man ; upon  inquiring,  it  was 
found  he  would  not  remain  at  his  farm,  but  was  visiting  about  the  coun- 
try among  the  Indians. 

Near  the  town  there  is  a grove  of  large  tamarind  trees,  planted  by 
the  Jesuits.  Under  the  shade  of  one  of  them  some  carpenters  were 


WINDS  OF  THE  MADEIRA  PLATE. 


255 


hewing  a large  canoe,  like  the  one  we  descended  in  from  Vinchuta. 
When  complete,  it  will  be  worth  from  thirty-five  to  forty  dollars. 

The  floods  rise  up  into  the  streets  of  Loreto,  and  the  church  floor  is 
so  damp  they  have  commenced  a raised  foundation  for  another  along- 
side of  it. 

The  southeast  winds  were  exceedingly  raw  and  wet  during  our  two 
days’  stay  at  Loreto,  so  we  had  a poor  opportunity  to  see  the  inhabitants. 
They  keep  their  houses  during  these  cold,  damp  days  ; such  weather  is 
the  most  pleasant  for  travelling.  We  returned  to  Trinidad  by  the  same 
and  only  road,  which  continues  on  to  Santa  Cruz,  through  a wild 
country. 

In  the  month  of  June,  sometimes  fresh  winds  blow  from  the  north- 
west, over  the  bottom  of  the  Madeira  Plate,  veering  often  to  north  and 
northeast ; but  this  is  seldom  the  case.  When  the  wind  is  from  the 
northwest,  the  thermometer  ranges  at  82°  in  the  morning,  and  as  high 
as  90°  in  the  afternoon.  Although  the  dust  is  very  much  disturbed  by 
it,  the  population  sit  out  of  doors  in  the  calm,  clear  evenings  after  the 
wind  goes  down  with  the  sun.  This  wind  seldom  exceeds  three  con- 
secutive days  ; it  then  changes,  and  blows  from  southeast,  rather  lighter, 
but  brings  fogs.  Rain  falls  from  the  clouds  ; and,  in  the  latter  part  of 
June,  during  these  winds,  the  thermometer  falls  as  low  as  66°  in  the  morn- 
ing and  70°  in  the  afternoon.  The  natives  then  &hut  their  doors,  and 
keep  in  from  the  street;  their  cotton  camecitas  are  doubled,  or  one  of  bark 
cloth  put  on.  The  Indians  suffer  for  the  want  of  proper  clothing  ; they 
shiver,  and  are  perfectly  helpless  until  this  wind  changes  to  the  north- 
west, when  the  town  becomes  enlivened  again — the  southeast  winds  being 
wet  winds  and  the  northwest  winds  dry.  These  twTo  currents  appear  to 
be  struggling  against  each  other.  The  northwest  winds  appear  like 
water-carriers  going  back  with  dry  buckets  ; as  they  pass  the  town  of 
Trinidad,  the  southeast  winds  are  pushed  out  of  the  way,  and  after  they 
have  passed,  then  the  southeast  winds  come  up  like  a train  of  watering 
pots,  and  down  drizzles  the  rain,  and  the  dry  atmosphere,  as  well  as  the 
hot  soil,  becomes  cooled  and  watered.  The  rains  are  seldom  heavy  in 
the  month  of  June,  nor  are  the  winds  strong  except  in  puffs  from  the 
southeast.  We  have  never  witnessed  such  regularity  in  the  distribution 
of  heat  and  cold  as  we  find  in  the  Madeira  Plate.  The  dry  and  wet 
winds  are  independent  of  the  dry  and  wet  seasons.  The  trees  here  ripen 
their  fruits,  while,  at  the  same  time,  they  put  forth  fresh  buds  and  blos- 
soms. Vegetable  life  goes  on  in  rapid  succession,  and  seems  to  be  as 
regular  as  the  year  in  and  out.  In  the  month  of  July,  the  southeast 
winds  blow  a little  fresher,  and  sometimes  veer  round  to  the  southwest. 


256 


THE  OSTHICH. 


The  northwest  wind  often  commences  to  blow  light  from  northeast  and 
north  ; and  in  this  month  the  wind  from  northwest  is  much  fresher 
than  it  is  in  June.  They  come  back  as  though  showing  some  temper 
at  the  manner  in  which  the  southeast  winds  crowd  up.  While  the 
northwest  winds  blow,  the  thermometer  ranges  at  7 6°  in  the  morning 
and  82°  in  tho  afternoon.  The  northeast  winds  are  warmer  than  the 
northwest  winds,  both  being  dry  winds.  During  the  southeast  winds 
the  thermometer  sometimes  stands  as  low  as  C2°  at  9 a.  m.,  and  67°  at 
8 p.  m.  The  southwest  breezes  are  generally  a little  warmer  than  the 
southeastern,  with  lightning  flashing  among  them — both  wet  winds. 
After  a fresh  wind  from  southeast,  we  may  expect  one  from  northwest; 
this  wind  appears  very  fighty  at  times. 

In  August  the  northwest  current  often  increases  to  a gale  in  the 
struggle  with  its  opponent,  and  the  thermometer  rises  as  high  as  80°  in 
the  morning,  and  90°  at  3 p.  m.  When  the  wind  from  the  southeast 
gets  the  upper  hand,  it  knocks  down  the  thermometer  as  low  as  73° 
at  9 a.  m.,  and  81°  in  the  afternoon. 

These  winds  sometimes  blow  for  three  days  from  the  southeast,  and 
then  exactly  three  days  back  from  the  northwest.  This  is  so  frequently 
the  case  that  the  inhabitants  say  that,  when  it  commences  from  either 
point,  they  expect  the  same  wind  for  three  days.  On  several  occasions 
we  were  struck  with  this  phenomenon,  and  whenever  the  Sundays 
happened  to  be  calm  days,  the  fact  reminded  us  of  the  commandment 
for  periodical  rest. 

Mojos  invites  the  zoologist.  The  different  habits  of  the  bird  kind, 
from  the  ostrich  to  the  most  delicately  shaped  humming-bird,  are  ob- 
served with  great  interest.  The  ostrich  lays  its  eggs  in  tte  thick  grass 
on  the  dry  plain ; two  eggs  fill  a man’s  hat,  and  weigh  as  much  as  two 
pounds  each.  The  ostrich  lays  a great  number,  spread  out  in  tho  nest 
over  so  wide  a space  that  it  is  very  certain  one  bird  cannot  cover  them 
all  sitting,  even  by  spreading  all  their  feathers  over  them.  Yet  the 
eggs  are  all  broken  when  the  hatching  is  over,  and  the  young  have  left 
the  nest.  The  ostrich  is  so  wild,  it  is  difficult  to  become  well  acquainted 
with  its  habits.  The  number  of  young  that  appear  upon  the  plain  do 
not  compare  with  the  number  of  egg  shells  found ; some  suppose  the 
ostrich  lays  one  egg  for  the  purpose  of  producing,  and  another  to  feed 
with.  The  young  grow  very  rapidly,  stepping  out  of  the  eggs ; their 
legs  are  enormous,  compared  with  other  parts  of  their  system. 

When  the  ostrich  is  going  at  full  speed  across  the  plain,  his  head  is 
held  erect,  like  the  smoke-pipe  of  a locomotive ; his  body  resembles  the 
boiler,  and  beautiful  rich  feathers,  which  start  up  straight,  flutter  behind. 


A BIRD-HUNTER, 


257 


The  great  speed  with  which  he  passes  through  the  level  country,  with 
the  external  appearance  of  the  bird,  reminds  one  very  much  of  a distant 
locomotive,  as  it  runs  without  any  train  attached. 

On  one  or  two  occasions  we  started  them  upon  the  pampas ; Mamore 
ran  very  fast,  and  so  did  our  horse,  but  the  ostrich  outran  us  with  the 
ease  of  a steam-engine.  While  running,  its  awkward  looking  legs  are 
thrown  out  on  the  sides  in  circles,  so  as  to  clear  the  long  grass,  but  the 
body  and  head  are  carried  remarkably  steady.  We  have  never  seen 
ostrich  feathers  in  the  market  of  Trinidad,  and  believe  the  Indians  never 
hunt  them,  though  they  play  with  them  at  times  by  disguising  them- 
selves in  a tiger  skin,  and  prowl  about  near  them  for  amusement.  In- 
dians pay  great  deference  to  those  birds,  originally  worshipped  by  them. 
It  is  possible  that  the  ostrich  held  the  same  relation  to  the  religious 
worship  of  the  Indians  of  these  low  lands,  as  the  llama  of  the  mount- 
ains occupied  among  the  Indians  there.  These  Indians  appear  to  have 
no  particular  use  for  the  ostrich,  and  for  that  reason  do  not  hunt  them, 
for  an  Indian  seldom  puts  to  death  any  animal  unnecessarily  ; he  makes 
use  of  what  he  finds  about  him,  and  is  careful  not  to  destroy,  nor  to 
waste  without  need. 

There  are  a few  individuals  among  the  creoles  of  Santa  Cruz  who 
understand  the  art  of  collecting  and  preserving  the  skins  of  birds  with 
arsenical  soap.  They  make  their  living  by  stuffing  birds  with  cotton, 
to  be  boxed  up  and  exported.  The  ffird  collector  differs  from  the  bark 
gatherer ; he  is  found  on  the  plains  as  well  as  in  the  woods ; his  ammu- 
nition is  good  powder,  in  small  tin  cannisters,  different  sized  shot,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  quicksilver.  The  shot  are  for  ordinary  birds.  He 
puts  a few  drops  of  quicksilver  in  a small  piece  of  paper,  and  loads  his 
gun  with  it  instead  of  shot.  The  quicksilver  knocks  the  humming  bird 
over,  without  tearing  the  skin,  or  disfiguring  the  plumage;  it  stuns,  and 
before  the  bird  recovers,  the  sportsman  has  him  in  hand.  After  the 
hunter  has  collected  some  five  hundred  kinds,  he  then  becomes  difficult 
to  please  ; he  wants  the  beautiful  little  songster  who  sits  at  the  base  of 
the  Andes,  and  sends  forth  his  music  before  the  rising  sun.  There  are 
many  birds  who  feed  by  night,  and  sleep  in  daylight ; some  steal  the 
eggs  of  their  neighbors ; others  drive  away  the  parents,  feed  and  rear 
their  young,  or  sit  upon  the  eggs  and  hatch  them  for  the  rightful  owner. 
All  these  birds  we  see  around  us  have  their  regular  hours  for  feeding, 
singing,  bathing,  resting,  and  sleeping. 

We  met  a bird-hunter  in  Trinidad  ; he  had  been  at  work  two  year  s 
collecting  near  six  hundred  different  kinds.  He  was  of  opinion  there 
are  over  a thousand  varieties  of  night  and  day  birds  to  be  found  in  the 
17 


258 


LONGEVITY TR  APICHE . 


Madeira  Plate,  besides  snakes,  lizards,  and  any  quantity  of  insects. 
Trinidad  was  his  head-quarters  from  which  he  branched  off  in  all  direc- 
tions during  the  dry  season.  His  room  was  a perfect  curiosity  shop. 
The  birds  were  rolled  up  in  paper  after  they  had  been  properly  cured, 
and  stowed  away  in  large  wooden  boxes.  Every  day,  at  different  hours, 
he  went  to  the  field ; after  days  of  labor,  he  would  be  seen  returning  with 
a single  bird,  differing  from  any  in  his  room.  He  procures  poisonous 
snakes  by  splitting  the  end  of  a stick  to  form  a fork,  which  he  places 
over  the  neck  of  the  snake,  and  holds  him  until  a gourd  or  bottle  is  fixed 
over  his  head,  when  he  loosens  his  fork  and  the  snake  crawls  into  the 
cavity.  He  then  corks  the  gourd  and  puts  it  into  his  pocket.  After 
the  snake  starves  to  death,  or  is  drowned  in  spirits,  his  skin  is  taken  off, 
preserved,  and  stuffed,  ready  for  exporting  to  the  museums  of  the  civilized 
world. 

During  the  rainy  season  the  bird-hunter  enters  a canoe,  and  repairs 
to  those  places  where  the  various  animals  are  collected  together.  He 
obtains  many  species  there,  which  would  require  a length  of  time  to 
follow  up,  and  fills  his  canoe  with  venison  and  deer  skins. 

Longevity  is  not  so  great  in  the  bottom  of  the  Madeira  Plate  as  on  the 
mountains.  We  find  very  few  old  people  in  Mojos.  The  population  is 
principally  composed  of  middle-aged  men.  Women  appear  to  reach  a 
greater  age,  both  on  the  mountains  and  here.  They  arrive  at  maturity 
about  the  same  time  in  both  regions. 

The  men  of  Mojos  are  less  addicted  to  exciting  drinks ; they  use 
tobacco  in  moderation,  while  those  of  the  mountains  are  immoderate  in  t 
their  use  of  the  coca.  The  men  of  Mojos  appear  to  possess  more  physical 
strength ; they  are  more  supple  and  active  than  the  mountain  Indians. 
All  agree  perfectly  as  to  indolence.  The  creole  portion  of  the  popula- 
tion of  Bolivia  are  the  most  idle  of  the  two  races. 

On  the  14th  of  August,  1852,  Don  Antonio  found  his  cargo  could  not 
be  disposed  of  in  Trinidad,  and  he  must  return  to  Brazil  with  his  boats. 
Don  Antonio  had  Brazilian  boatmen — negroes  and  mestizos.  These 
men  came  up  from  the  Amazon  with  him,  and  were  thought  the  only 
kind  of  people  who  could  be  employed  upon  the  expedition. 

At  daylight  in  the  morning,  Cayuba  came  with  his  wife  and  thirty 
Indians,  bearing  poles,  to  carry  our  baggage  to  the  port  at  Trapiche. 
Cayuba’s  wife  brought  us  yuca  and  oranges  to  use  on  the  voyage.  Our 
passports  were  made  out,  and  upon  my  offering  to  pay  what  was  usual, 
the  Intendente,  who  was  a very  polite  person,  said  the  government  did 
not  charge  me. 

T8e  passports  of  Don  Antonio  and  his  twelve  people  cost  him  the 


PLAZA  DE  TRINIDAD.  Bolivia 


J < 


ANT-HILLS. 


259 


sum  of  four  dollars,  for  permission  to  return  by  the  river  Mamore  to  his 
own  country,  more  than  half  the  distance  being  through  the  wilderness, 
beyond  the  line  of  civilization.  The  authorities  insisted  upon  it ; he  re- 
quired a Bolivian  passport  to  present  to  the  authorities  of  his  own 
country  when  he  arrived  there,  “otherwise  they  would  not  know  where 
he  came  from.”  There  was  some  displeasure  shown  towards  Don 
Antonio,  that  he  had  not  a thousand  dollars  in  silver.  He,  on  the  other 
hand,  was  displeased  at  being  obliged  to  take  cacao,  instead  of  silver,  for 
his  goods. 

The  prefect  of  the  Beni  gave  me  a letter  to  the  prefect  of  the  depart- 
ment of  Santa  Cruz,  in  case  we  found  it  impossible  to  get  men  in  the 
town  of  Matto  Grosso,  for  Don  Antonio’s  boat  to  descend  the  Madeira, 
and  could  not  pass  by  the  forts  on  the  Paraguay  river,  or  over  the 
country  to  the  Atlantic,  through  Brazil.  We  would  have  a passport  to 
return  into  Bolivia.  It  is  necessary  to  have  permission  to  come  .in  as 
well  as  to  go  out. 

Over  one  hundred  Indians  died  with'  the  small-pox  while  we  were  in 
Trinidad.  The  people  were  still  sutfering  with  it  when  we  left. 

Trapiche  is  situated  two  leagues  west-northwest  of  Trinidad.  The 
road  in  August  was  dry,  but  in  February  is  navigable  for  canoes.  The 
whole  surface  of  the  country  is  strewed  with  ant-hills,  though  not  quite 
as  high  as  those  of  Masi  plains.  We  examined  the  inside  of  one  and 
found  the  earth  worked  into  a perfect  honey  crust,  not  regular  like 
hived  bees  make  their  comb,  but  bees  that  burrow  in  the  ground,  and 
deposit  their  honey  in  a mass  of  cups.  The  inside  of  the  ant-house  was 
built  so  that  the  ants  could  enter  at  the  base  and  wind  their  way  up  to 
the  top.  There  was  no  outlet  on  the  top ; the  outside  was  one  solid 
mass  of  baked  clay,  burnt  hard  by  the  heat  of  the  sun.  We  suppose 
that  the  ants  live  in  the  garret  when  the  lands  are  overflowed  ; do  not 
crawl  on  the  outside  and  get  on  the  roof  for  safety  or  curiosity.  Some 
of  these  ants  are  small  and  reddish  in  color,  while  others  are  black. 
They  do  not  sting  as  those  of  the  woods,  until  they  are  made  very 
angry,  and  then  they  worry  a dog  considerably. 

There  are  a great  number  of  large  pigeons  feeding  on  these  plains ; 
the  young  are  full-grown,  very  fat,  and  form  a good  substitute  for 
miserable  beef. 

The  Indians  carry  their  loads  of  plantains,  yuca,  and  wood,  on  the 
crotches  of  two  limbs.  The  single  sticks  made  fast  to  the  yoke  of  oxen, 
secured  on  each  side  to  the  horns,  while  the  two  prongs  slide  on  the 
ground  behind.  Sometimes  they  secure  a large  square  box  or  basket 
ou  the  crotches,  and  let  the  children  ride  in  this  Mojos  carriage.  The 


260 


DEPARTURE YBARE. 


sugar-cane  is  generally  planted  on  tlie  side  of  the  river  and  carried  in 
canoes.  At  Trapiche  we  found  them  manufacturing  sugar,  molasses, 
and  rum. 

I embarked  in  a small  canoe  with  my  gun,  and  a little  Indian  boy 
paddled  me  up  the  Ybare  to  look  at  a field  or  patch  of  sugar-cane. 
The  Indians  had  just  set  fire  to  the  dry  weeds  in  it,  and  the  light  breeze 
soon  created  a flame.  A large  black  tiger  rushed  out  on  the  bank, 
plunged  into  the  river,  and  swam  before  us  to  the  opposite  shore,  where 
he  looked  round  crossly  at  the  fire.  Shaking  himself,  he  proceeded  up 
the  bank,  and  through  the  cane-brake,  without  condescending  further  to 
notice  us.  His  body  appeared  full  five  feet  long,  with  short,  heavy  legs, 
long  tail,  and  a remarkably  disagreeable  expression  of  face,  as  though 
he  would  like  to  take  some  revenge  for  being  burnt  out.  The  little 
Indian  boy  looked  up  quickly,  and  simply  said,  in  Spanish,  “He  is  a 
large  one.” 

On  the  banks  of  the  Ybare  we  found  plantains,  pine-apples,  papayas, 
Spanish  peppers,  lemons,  and  oil  beans ; small  fish  and  eels  in  the  river, 
with  poisonous  snakes  in  the  grass. 

Our  baggage  was  stowed  on  board  the  “Igarite,”  over  which  the  flag 
of  the  United  States  was  hoisted.  Don  Antonio  embarked  his  cargo 
on  the  “Coberta,”  from  which  the  flag  of  Brazil  was  suspended.  Five 
Mojos  Indians  were  employed  in  addition  to  the  Brazilian  crews.  Two 
horses  and  two  mules  affected  with  the  peste  were  embarked  in  a canoe. 
Four  dogs  and  one  man  crowded  a small  batteau.  Four  of  the  Brazil- 
ians had  their  wives  with  them.  Just  before  the  boat  squadron  got 
underway,  there  was  trouble  on  board  the  “Coberta” — the  men  whipped 
their  wives  all  around.  After  which  they  followed  us  down  stream. 
The  noise  and  activity  in  getting  off  was  new  to  us.  The  Indians 
crowded  the  banks,  while  the  Brazilian  negroes  seemed  disposed  to  show 
their  seamanship  to  advantage.  We  were  delighted  to  get  off. 

The  Ybare  is  a small  winding  stream,  of  fifty  feet  width,  with  perpen- 
dicular banks  thirty  feet  high,  a depth  of  nine  to  twelve  feet,  and  a half- 
mile  current.  A short  steamboat  might  ascend  the  Ybare  from  the 
Mamore  river  to  Trapiche.  The  turns  are  too  short  to  admit  a long 
river  steamer.  The  Indians  call  this  distance  three  leagues.  There  are 
a few  snags,  and  quantities  of  musquitoes.  The  dew  falls  at  night,  and 
the  new  moon  appears  unusually  red.  We  noticed  this  peculiarity  at 
the  base  of  the  Andes  east  of  Cuzco. 

On  entering  the  waters  of  the  Mamorfe  river  again,  we  found  thirty- 
three  feet  water.  A ship-of-the-line  could  float  in  the  bottom  of  Madeira 
Plate  in  the  dry  season.  The  current  is  now  one  mile  per  hour.  Tem- 


MAMORE. 


261 


perature  of  water,  76°.  One  of  the  Indians  wanted  us  to  give  him  our 
eompass,  after  inquiring  what  it  was,  saying  there  were  none  in  Mojos. 
The  banks  of  the  river  are  twenty-five  feet  high ; with  the  depth  of  the 
river,  the  bed  is  fifty-eight  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  plain.  The 
river  is  less  winding,  with  a width  of  four  hundred  yards,  and  the  chan- 
nel little  obstructed  by  snags.  We  progress  very  slowly  in  this  clumsy 
boat.  The  men  propel  her  about  half  a mile  per  hour  when  they  choose. 
Sometimes  we  pole  along  the  bank.  She  measures  thirty  feet  in  length, 
and  eight  feet  two  inches  beam,  drawing  three  feet  water  when  loaded. 

Here  we  meet  fish.  Don  Antonio  came  alongside  with  his  batteau 
an<®and-net,  and  politely  gave  me  one  of  each  of  the  different  kinds  he 
caught  in  a few  hauls.  This  was  quite  an  addition  to  our  collection. 

The  country  around  is  a perfect  level.  Clusters  of  trees  here  and 
there  spot  the  plain,  though  cane-brakes  and  grass  predominate.  The 
banks  of  the  river  are  often  picturesque,  sloping  down  to  the  water, 
covered  with  grass,  while  in  other  places  the  large  drift-trees  lay  on  the 
beach,  where  the  Indians  cultivate  patches  of  maize,  earth  almonds,  or 
ground  peas. 

. August  19,  1852. — At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  80°;  temperature  of 
water,  78°.  Among  the  heavy  clouds  that  approach  us  from  the  south- 
east the  thunder  roars,  and  a rainbow  comes  towards  the  Andes.  Ducks, 
geese,  turkeys,  and  cranes  thickly  line  the  stream ; porpoises  puff  and 
hawks  screech.  The  boat’s  crew  and  their  wives  enjoy  a roasted  ring- 
tailed monkey  for  breakfast. 

We  landed  on  the  east  side  en  a bank  thirty  feet  high,  and  visited 
the  Trapiche  of  San  Pedro.  Four  sugar  mills  were  in  motion  by  oxen. 
The  Indians  had  collected  large  piles  of  cane  from  the  patches,  and 
were  manufacturing  rum  and  molasses  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
correjidor,  a creole,  having  a wife  and  children  with  him.  We  supplied 
ourselves  with  sugar  of  good  quality  for  the  voyage. 

The  same  planting  produces  sugar  for  twenty  years  in  Mojos.  The 
suckers  yield  a juice  which  increases  in  sweetness  for  twelve  years,  after 
which  it  begins  to  loose  its  saccharine  matter.  Cacao  is  gathered  in 
November,  eofiee  in  May,  and  sugar  in  August  and  September. 

We  have  quantities  of  musquitoes  during  the  night,  but  none  in  the 
day.  At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  91°;  water,  78°.  We  count  eighteen 
different  kinds  of  fish  in  the  Mamore,  where  the  river  is  thirty-nine  feet 
deep.  The  country  has  become  somewhat  broken  in  places;  the  land  is 
dry,  and  raised  well  up  from  the  level  of  the  river,  while  in  others  it  sinks 
down  swampy.  We  drifted  along  by  the  current  during  the  night 
after  getting  entangled  with  a sawyer  or  run  on  the  side  of  the  shore. 


262 


INDIAN  OVERBOARD. 


One  of  the  Indians  who  had  the  “sleep  in,”  was  seated  napping  on 
the  rounded  roof  of  the  barrel-shaped  boat,  with  his  head  between  his 
knees  and  camecita  doubled  under  his  toes,  to  keep  the  musquitoes  out. 
He  lost  his  balance,  rolled  in  his  sleep  over  and  over  off  the  boat  into 
the  river.  The  remarkably  quick  time  of  the  man  in  waking  up  and 
regaining  the  boat,  amused  the  old  captain,  who  was  standing  forward 
like  a figure-head,  with  a cigar  in  his  mouth ; now  looking  up  at  the 
bright  moon,  and  then  on  the  surface  of  the  water  for  snags,  both  hands 
fighting  musquitoes  on  all  parts  of  his  nakedness.  Instead  of  giving 
the  usual  cry  of  a look-out,  “Man  overboard,”  he  laughingly  renamed 
to  himself,  without  offering  asistance — “Mucha  fiesta  esta  noche — p™ty 
of  fun  to-night. 

The  grasses'on  the  prairie  are  fired,  and  as  the  midnight  hours  pass, 
lightning  flashes  to  the  east.  The  wild  cattle  roam  bellowing  beyond 
the  ravages  of  the  flames.  Our  lead  here  tangles  at  the  bottom  of  the 
river  and  troubles  us,  where  we-  find  fifty-one  feet  of  water. 

August  22. — The  wind  from  southeast  freshened  almost  to  a gale. 
At  a turn  in  the  river  we  lay  by  the  bank  for  the  day ; the  men  were 
unable  to  force  the  boat  against  the  wind,  which  made  a little  sea 
against  the  current,  and  drove  us  up  stream. 

At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  YY0,  and  at  4 p.  m.,  69°.  August  23d  rain 
and  lightning,  with  a strong  southeaster.  We  clung  to  the  bank  all 
night.  At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  62°.  At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  61°. 
The  Indians  became  quite  cold,  fastened  up  in  the  boat  by  the  side  of  a 
steep  bank.  To  warm  themselves  they  took  out  a line  ahead  and  pulled 
us  slowly  along  against  the  wind  and  sea  to  the  next  turn  in  the  river, 
which  gave  us  the  wind  fair.  Our  poles  were  rigged  up  as  masts, 
and  with  old  pouches  and  baggage  covers,  we  stuck  up  a sail,  which 
drove  us  along  at  the  rate  of  four  miles,  very  much  to  the  delight  of 
the  Indians,  who  never  use  sails  in  their  canoes.  Arriving  at  another 
turn,  it  became  necessary  to  take  in  all  sail ; doing  so,  we  ran  into  a 
cluster  of  trees  sticking  fast  to  the  bottom  of  the  river,  when  the  Indians 
laughed,  and  pronounced  sailing  a humbug. 


EXALT  AC  ION. 


263 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Exaltacion — Cayavabo  Indians — Descending  the  Mamorfe  river — Indians 
shooting  fish — Houbarayos  savages  and  birds  at  midnight — Ascend  the  Itenez 
river — Forte  do  Principe  da  Beira  in  Brazil — Negro  soldiers — Kind  attention 
of  the  commandante — Favorable  notice  of  the  expedition  by  the  President  of 
¥atto  Grosso — The  wilderness — Friendship  of  Don  Antonio,  his  boat  and 
a crew  of  negro  soldiers — Departure  for  the  Madeira  river — Birds  and  fishes 
congregated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Itenez — On  the  Mamore  river  again — A 
negro  soldier’s  account  of  the  Emperor’s  service — Koar  of  “ Guaraja-merim  ” 
falls. 

August  24. — Arrived  at  the  port  of  Exaltacion.  The  Indians  manu- 
facturing sugar  at  the  mill  on  the  bank.  The  largest  Indian  we  met  on 
the  route  was  superintending  the  workmen ; he  measured  five  feet  eleven 
inches.  This  is  the  Cayavabos  tribe.  These  Indians  are  said  to  be  the 
most  courageous  in  the  Beni.  They  are  certainly  a superior  looking  set 
of  men. 

The  town  of  Exaltacion  is  situated  in  the  elbow  of  the  river,  one  mile 
inland,  near  a beautiful  lake.  The  place  was  nearly  deserted  for  the 
sugar  patches  and  chacras  which  line  the  banks  up  and  down  the  river, 
to  which  the  Indians  repair  in  the  morning  early,  men,  women,  and 
children,  and  after  the  day’s  work  is  over,  return  to  town  for  the  night. 
All  the  towns  in  Mojos  are  laid  out  and  built  after  the  same  fashion, 
and  the  costume  of  the  Indians  is  the  same,  except  here  the  women  have 
a fancy  for  black,  and  dye  their  cotton  camecitas  of  that  color,  which  is 
anything  but  an  improvement  in  a country  where  plenty  of  water  may 
be  had.  Exaltacion  stands  on  a dry,  parched,  uninteresting  fiat.  The 
cathedral  and  government  houses  are  superior  to  those  of  Trinidad, 
though  this  town  is  small  and  more  like  Loreto.  The  tamarind  trees 
and  orange  groves  planted  here  by  the  Jesuits  flourish  better. 

As  there  were  some  cases  of  small  pox  in  town,  we  declined  the  kind 
invitation  of  the  correjidor  to  take  up  our  quarters  with  him.  This 
gentleman  wffs  exceedingly  polite,  and  promised  to  give  us  a canoe  and 
fourteen  men  to  carry  us  to  Brazil  as  soon  as  possible ; Don  Antonio 
being  obliged  to  leave  his  large  boats  in  the  Mamore  river,  and  load  his 
small  canoe  with  that  part  of  his  cargo  intended  for  Matto  Grosso. 
Boats  drawing  three  feet  water  could  not  ascend  the  Itenez  river  to  that 


264 


SUGAR  MILL. 


town  at  the  dry  season  of  the  year.  The  correjidor  gave  orders  to  a 
commissario  to  detain  a crew  in  the  morning,  before  the  Indians  started 
for  the  chacras,  so  they  might  prepare  their  “ farinha”  for  the  voyage. 
Yuca  turns  green,  and  rots  in  a few  days  in  its  natural  state ; we  will 
be  detained  some  days,  while  the  women  manufacture  it  into  farinha; 
it  is  washed,  pealed,  and  grated  into  a wooden  trough ; after  which  it  is 
ground,  or  mashed  by  hand  between  two  stones.  Maize  is  often  mixed 
with  it,  by  which  it  is  much  improved.  After  it  is  dried  hard,  the  flour 
lasts  long  enough  for  a voyage  of  a month.  Cattle  are  scarce  on  these 
prairies ; a beef  costs  four  dollars  ; the  crew  require  one  for  a start,  but 
as  the  meat  keeps  so  short  a time,  they  are  dependent  upon  farirfia, 
and  what  they  may  pick  up  on  the  way. 

Don  Antonio  lost  two  of  his  animals  on  the  passage,  and  from  the 
dry  appearance  of  the  pasture,  he  will  lose  the  others.  The  correjidor 
was  unwilling  to  permit  him  to  let  them  loose  on  the  plain  among  other 
cattle  and  horses ; suffering  with  the  worst  stages  of  the  disease,  he 
was  fearful  that  they  would  affect  those  which  had  escaped. 

In  the  evening  we  met  the  Indians  returning  from  the  chacras,  all 
armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  The  tribes  to  the  north  are  savages,  and 
very  unfriendly  towards  the  Cayavabos,  who  often  whip  their  neighbors 
when  they  misbehave  themselves.  They  were  loaded  with  yucas,  plan- 
tains, oranges,  sugar-cane,  alligator’s  eggs,  and  with  the  only  farming 
tool  they  use,  a small  iron  shovel,  attached  to  a long  straight  handle. 

The  sugar  mill  is  going  all  night  long ; several  pairs  of  oxen  are  kept 
ready,  and  as  soon  as  one  becomes  tired,  a fresh  pair  is  hitched  in ; the 
boy  that  thrusts  the  cane  between  three  perpendicular  cogged  cylin- 
ders, and  the  driver  of  the  team,  often  fall  asleep  at  work,  but  are  kept 
at  it  by  those  put  over  them  to  keep  the  mill  going.  The  mill  and  oxen 
all  belong  to  the  State,  as  well  as  the  chacra,  from  which  this  cane  came. 
After  the  Indians  have  manufactured  the  government’s  sugar  and  rum, 
then  the  mill  is  loaned  to  them,  and  their  own  oxen  are  hitched  to. 
The  fixed  stipend  of  the  Church  and  State  officers  of  the  Beni  are  paid 
by  the  income  from  these  government  sugar  patches,  worked  gratis  by 
the  Indians  under  orders  from  the  authorities. 

The  market  price  of  sugar,  in  the  town  of  Exaltacion,  is  one  real  per 
pound.  A quantity  of  fresh  juice  is  drank  like  new  cider ; it  is  called 
guarapo ; the  Indians  are  very  fond  of  it.  They  make  wiy  faces  at 
aguadiente,  but  naturally  take  to  chicha.  An  Indian  always  “acknow- 
ledges the  corn"  There  are  three  kinds  of  sugar-cane  here.  The 
largest  sized  white  cane  is  considered  the  least  valuable ; the  sweetest 
and  best  quality  is  the  small  white  stalk.  The  third  kind  has  a dark 


DON  ANTONIO'S  AMAZONIAN  BOATS.  EXAITACION  Bolivia 


, 

' 

‘ 

* ,1 

■ 


CAYAYABO  INDIANS. 


265 


bluish  color,  which  is  said  to  produce  the  best  aguadiente.  It  is  seldom 
manufactured  into  sugar,  being  inferior  to  either  of  the  two  whites.  I 
collected  cuttings  of  each  kind. 

The  Cayavabo  Indians  are  good  horsemen.  When  they  require  cat- 
tle, a party  mount  horses  and  ride  into  the  pampa,  where  they  encoun- 
ter the  wild  cattle.  They  ride  round  them  in  the  most  skilful  manner, 
run  them  into  an  enclosure ; from  the  outside  of  the  fence  they  lasso 
a beef,  and  haul  him  to  a bull-ring  fixed  in  a post.  Tame  oxen  are 
kept  and  fed  near  the  place  where  the  beef  is  butchered.  The  horns  of 
a wild  bull  are  sometimes  secured  to  those  of  a tame  ox,  when  they  are 
le^gjoose  on  the  plain.  The  ox  knows  the  road,  and  naturally  runs  to 
the  place  where  he  is  fed  at  the  market,  and  holds  his  wild  brother, 
while  the  Indian  puts  him  to  death. 

The  boat’s  crew  were  mustered  by  the  comisario,  and  in  the  presence 
of  the  correjidor,  I paid  them  our  passage  money  from  Exaltacion  to 
Forte  do  Principe  da  Beira,  in  Brazil,  with  the  express  understanding, 
that  in  case  there  were  no  men  there  for  Don  Antonio’s  boat  to  take 
me  to  the  Amazon,  they  would  continue  with  me  to  the  town  of  Matto 
Grosso.  It  appeared  very  evident  that  the  Indians  disliked  leaving  the 
ehacras,  preferring  much  more  to  remain  and  gather  their  harvest  than 
go  on  this  voyage,  which  is  seldom  made  by  the  Bolivians.  They  wer^ 
fine,  stout  built  men,  and  reported  to  be  the  very  best  crew  belonging 
to  the  tribe.  The  correjidor  gave  them  instructions  to  do  whatever  I 
desired  of  them,  and  to  take  good  care  of  us,  as  we  came  down  the 
mountains  from  where  the  President  lived.  He  was  also  kind  enough 
to  give  me  the  choice  of  all  the  canoes  in  port ; the  largest  and  best 
one  measured  thirty-nine  feet  long,  by  four  feet  three  inches  beam,  and 
would  carry,  besides  the  crew,  one  thousand  pounds  weight ; the  pad- 
dles were  five  feet  long. 

The  correjidor  presented  a raw-hide  box  filled  with  jerked  beef — 
charque,  as  it  is  called — some  corn  bread,  and  farinha.  The  superin- 
tendent of  the  mill  sent  a jug  of  molasses  and  some  of  his  best  white 
sugar.  We  had  appointed  the  30th  of  August  as  our  day  of  sailing,  when 
the  crew  came  down,  headed  by  their  captain,  to  beg  we  would  allow 
them  to  celebrate  the  Fiesta  de  Santa  Rosa,  when  manana — next  day — 
they  would  be  ready  to  start.  As  there  was  dancing  and  an  unusual 
encouragement  of  the  chicha  manufacturers  in  town,  I saw  there  was 
no  chance  of  getting  off,  and  very  unwillingly  gave  consent. 

While  we  observed  the  northern  stars  for  latitude,  several  Indians 
came  to  look  on.  Being  shown  the  image  of  a star  in  the  basin  of 
mercury,  they  appeared  astonished,  and  inquired  of  Don  Antonio  what 


\ 


266 


DESCENDING  THE  MAMOItfi. 


we  were  doing.  He  told  them  we  lived  in  the  north,  and  were  inquir- 
ing of  the  stars  how  far  from  home  we  were  in  their  country.  The  fel- 
lows ran  off  immediately  and  called  others  to  come  and  see  the  North 
Americans’  home  under  the  stars.  One  of  them  looked  intently  for 
some  time  at  the  little  twinkling  image  in  the  quicksilver,  and  gravely 
told  the  others  “ it  was  far  off.” 

August  31. — The  crew  came  down  to  the  canoe,  bringing  with  them 
their  farinha  and  women  ; this  was  a favorable  sign  for  our  getting  off; 
the  captain,  however,  came  to  me  and  said  he  was  very  drunk,  and 
thought  it  best  to  put  off  our  start  until  to-morrow ; but  the  men  were 
generally  sober  after  their  saint’s  day ; stowed  our  baggage  neatl^in 
the  canoe,  kissed  their  children,  and  shook  hands  with  their  wives ; one 
having  been  married  lately  to  a good-looking  Indian,  cried ; but  the 
older  ones  took  the  departure  more  easy.  The  captain  had  a pretty 
little  daughter  of  twelve  years  of  age,  with  whom  he  seemed  very  loth 
to  part,  though  he  promised  her  to  me  as  a wife  when  we  returned. 
The  “ cacique  ” of  the  town  came  down  with  the  men,  and  superintended 
the  loading  of  the  canoe.  AVhen  we  were  all  ready  he  made  a speech, 
telling  the  men  what  their  duties  were,  and  wished  them  a safe  return 
to  their  families.  Each  man  stuck  his  bow  and  arrows,  feathered-ends 
^ip,  near  by  him,  between  the  baggage  and  the  side  of  the  canoe,  as 
they  took  their  seats.  We  presented  quite  a “manof-war”  exterior. 
We  pushed  on  down  stream  at  rapid  rate,  leaving  Don  Antonio  to  fol- 
bw  to-morrow.  Our  canoe  had  a washboard  all  round  her  of  six  inches 
breadth.  We  found  our  load,  with  crew,  brought  her  down  so  deep  we 
took  in  water.  The  captain  ran  alongside  of  a perpendicular  clay  bank, 
with  which  we  caulked  ship.  We  passed  several  canoes  loaded  with 
sugar-cane,  from  the  chacras  on  the  way  to  the  mill. 

The  river  holds  about  the  same  width — four  hundred  yards,  fifty-four 
feet  deep,  one  mile  and  a half  current  per  hour.  We  remained  all  night 
at  the  port  of  San  Martin — the  lower  port  of  Exaltacion.  The  bank  is 
thirty  feet  high,  and  steep.  The  distance  from  the  town  is  not  quite 
a mile,  but  the  conveniences  for  landing  at  Trapiche  are  the  best.  The 
men  asked  permission  to  go  to  town  and  spend  the  night,  promising  to 
return  by  daylight  in  the  morning.  The  captain’s  wife  appeared  with 
a jar  of  chicha ; and  after  the  fire  was  made,  supper  over,  and  beds 
made  upon  the  bank,  they  went  to  town,  aud  we  slept  upon  the  shore 
near  the  boat.  There  was  a house  on  the  bank,  but  it  was  filled  with 
chickens  and  dogs,  who  were  scratching  themselves  all  night.  The  fire 
on  the  shore  disturbed  an  ant’s  nest,  and  they  gave  the  party  some 
trouble ; they  stung  Mamore  most  unmercifully.  We  received  another 


DESCENDING  THE  MAMORtS. 


267 


present  of  fruit  from  the  correjidor,  sent  to  meet  us  here,  with  his 
farewell  compliments. 

September  1,  1852. — The  men  came  down  strictly  to  their  promise, 
and  we  at  last  got  off,  hut  it  is  dreadful  slow  work  wading  through  this 
country;  a man  only  worries  himself  who  pretends  to  hurry — poco-poco 
is  the  word  in  Spanish.  A few  miles  below  San  Martin  we  came  to  a 
stony  point,  the  first  rock  we  have  seen  since  leaving  Vinchuta.  We 
take  specimens  of  rpcks,  metals,  minerals,  and  earths,  as  we  go  along. 
By  the  river  we  find  chocolate,  coffee,  sugar-cane,  papaya,  plantains,  pine 
apples,  yuca,  large  straggling  forest  trees,  thick  undergrowth,  but  no 
inhabitants.  The  Indians  all  sleep  in  the  towns,  and  work  by  day  in 
the  chacras.  The  largest  cacao  leaf  I could  find  measured  one  foot  six 
and  a half  inches  in  length,  with  five  inches  and  three-quarters  in 
breadth.  The  cacao  tree  grows  wild  in  the  woods ; when  planted  in 
an  orchard  by  themselves,  even  close  together,  the  yield  is  much  greater 
than  where  they  grow  in  the  shade  of  the  larger  forest  trees.  The  soil 
here  is  of  the  richest  kind. 

At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  88°;  water,  79°.  The  turns  in  the  river 
are  becoming  much  longer ; we  find  sixty -three  feet  water.  With  a 
gun,  we  landed  on  the  west  bauk,  and  paid  a visit  to  the  pampa  of  San- 
tiago, where  the  State  has  a large  drove  of  cattle,  attended  by  Indians.* 
There  are  numbers  of  deer,  and  flocks  of  birds.  The  territory  to  the 
north,  through  which  the  Mamore  river  flows,  is  inhabited  by  a warlike 
tribe  of  Indians,  called  Chacobos,  who  are  constantly  fighting  with  the 
Cayavabos,  our  crew.  The  meu  caught  a number  of  fish  from  a pond 
on  the  pampa.  My  bottle,  unfortunately,  was  too  small  at  the  mouth 
to  admit  more  than  one  species.  The  banks  of  the  river  sometimes 
break  down  on  both  sides  perpendicular,  like  those  of  the  Mississippi. 
Where  this  is  the  case,  the  river  is  narrower — 350  yards  wide — 
though  the  soundings  are  over  one  hundred  feet.  We  lost  one  lead  and 
part  of  the  line,  but  fortunately  had  duplicates. 

September  2. — At  9 a.  in.,  thermometer,  78°;  water,  78°;  light  south- 
east winds ; thunder  and  lightning  during  the  night,  with  rain.  The 
crew  caught  a number  of  young  birds,  and  gathered  eggs  from  the  sand- 
beach,  while  the  old  birds — a species  of  gull — flew  over  them,  cried,  and 
darted  down  at  the  Indians'  head  as  they  made  way  with  the  young.  Ma- 
more was  let  out  among  them.  As  he  put  his  paw  playfully  on  a young 
bird,  the  old  ones  were  in  swarms  close  over  him,  showing  desperate 
fight  in  defence  of  their  young.  The  sand  is  gray  and  black,  like  the 
rocks  we  saw  yesterday.  There  are  a few  snags  and  sawyers  in  the 


268 


INDIANS  SHOOTING  FISH. 


channel.  We  observe  they  stick  fast  in  the  sandy  bottom  more  securely 
than  in  the  mud. 

While  we  breakfasted  on  young  birds  and  eggs,  wild  cattle  were  seen 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.  These  cattle  have  roamed  down  to 
the  territory  of  the  savages.  A number  of  palm-trees  stand  on  the 
banks,  and  the  country  appears  to  be  getting  more  thickly  wooded.  An 
alligator  had  driven  a school  of  fish  close  to  the  bank,  and,  in  the  most 
comfortable  way  possible,  was  making  his  breakfast.  The  fish  were 
crowded  together ; they  could  not  clear  themselves  from  one  another 
so  as  to  swim  away.  The  alligator  took  full  advantage  of  the  difficulty. 
Our  crew  saw  what  was  going  on  some  time  before  we  rapidly  neared 
the  school.  The  captain  steered  the  canoe  in  about  three  feet  of  the 
bank,  cutting  between  the  alligator  and  his  mess.  In  an  instant  a 
broadside  of  arrows  were  fired  by  the  crew ; nearly  every  man  struck 
his  fish.  The  fish  were  so  frightened  that  numbers  jumped  out  on  dry 
land,  and  several  leaped  into  the  bottom  of  the  canoe.  The  Indians 
laughed;  became  excited;  kept  on  shooting.  Some  jumped  on  shore 
and  secured  the  game ; others  ran  up  the  bank,  firing  their  arrows 
through  the  crowded  school.  One  man  stripped  himself,  jumped  into 
the  stream,  and  gathered  in  the  quivering  arrows  as  they  floated  down, 
<the  feathered  ends  up,  and  struggling  fish  on  the  points.  The  crew 
were  most  active  and  perfectly  delighted  at  the  number  of  fine  fish  they 
had  to  help  down  their  farinha.  While  the  men  broiled  fish  on  sticks 
and  over  hot  coals  of  fire,  or  made  a chowder  with  yuca,  the  alligator 
indignantly  rested  on  the  opposite  shore,  now  and  then  slowly  wagging 
his  tail  as  he  cleared  the  fish-bones  from  his  teeth,  but  constantly  eye- 
ing the  long,  low,  black  canoe  and  the  happy  crew  as  they  seated 
themselves  laughingly  about  the  boiling  iron  pot.  The  fish  were  the 
size  of  a small  shad,  shaped  like  them,  except  in  mouth,  and  quite  as 
good  eating.  Our  fears  of  starving  in  the  wilderness  are  overcome. 
We  can  travel  a long  way  on  fish,  fowls,  and  eggs. 

These  Indians  talk  very  little.  They  silently  pull  along  as  though 
they  were  sleeping,  but  their  eyes  are  wandering  all  the  time  in  every 
direction.  Nothing  moves  above  the  water’s  surface  or  among  the 
forest  trees  but  they  see  it  at  once.  They  understand  the  habits  and 
customs  of  the  animals  perfectly.  Knowing  that  the  alligator  keeps 
accounts  with  the  fish,  when  they  see  him,  they  are  at  once  on  the 
look-out  for  sport.  They  know  at  what  time  in  the  evening  the  wild 
turkey  will  appear  on  the  bank  of  the  river  to  drink  before  he  goes  to 
roost,  and  when  to  look  for  him  in  the  morning,  as  he  feeds  by  early 
light.  The  wild  ducks  sleep  on  the  beach  in  the  noonday  sun ; then  it 


SAGACITY  OF  THE  INDIANS. 


269 


is  the  Indian  calls  our  attention  to  them.  They  understand  the  man- 
ners of  the  savages  too.  Sometimes  we  all  sleep  on  the  beach ; at 
other  times  in  the  canoe.  When  we  keep  afloat,  they  secure  the  bow 
of  the  canoe  to  a stake  run  into  the  sandy  bottom.  When  night  over- 
takes us,  we  pull  silently  along,  until  it  becomes  so  dark  that  no  one 
can  see  us  come  to  for  a rest.  Our  paddles  are  in  motion  again  before 
the  break  of  day,  to  avoid  being  caught  asleep  by  others.  In  this  way 
the  chances  of  being  fired  into  by  the  arrows  of  the  wild  men  are  pretty 
certainly  reduced  to  broad  daylight,  when  we  take  mid  channel. 

Our  crew  know  tolerably  well  what  parts  of  the  country  are  populated, 
and  when  there  is  a probability  of  meeting  their  enemy.  We  find  the 
party  depending  entirely  upon  the  judgment  of  this  aboriginal  race,  who 
are  a generous  set  of  fellows,  constantly  offering  to  share  their  game  with 
us.  We  return  the  compliment  when  we  can,  but  there  are  more  fish 
than  turkeys.  The  men  tell  me  that  the  Chacobo  savages  inhabit  the 
west  bank  of  the  river,  and  a tribe  called  “ Houbarayos,”  the  most  un- 
merciful, live  on  the  east  bank ; therefore,  we  are  between  two  fires.  The 
soundings  taken  the  second  day  from  Exaltacion  were  one  hundred  and 
two  feet  deep — the  very  bottom  of  the  Madeira  Plate.  We  have  reached 
a rocky  formation  passing  through  it,  and  beyond  it  the  soundings  de- 
crease. Rocks  stand  up  in  mid-channel  where  we  find  forty-five  feet 
water ; while  it  requires  more  careful  navigation,  the  river  is  400  yards 
wide,  with  plenty  of  room  for  a steamer  to  pass. 

September  3,  at  8 a.  m.,  thermometer,  72°;  water,  78°;  wind,  south- 
east. The  night  was  foggy.  As  the  day  promises  to  be  clear,  we  break 
out  our  cargo,  wash  out  the  canoe,  and  restow.  The  internal  arrange- 
ments are  the  same  we  had  on  board  the  Canichanas.  We  passed  the 
mouth  of  a small  stream  emptying  into  the  Mamore  from  the  eastward. 
During  the  rainy  season  this  stream  is  navigable  for  canoes. 

September  4. — We  find  small  creeks  running  in  on  both  sides  of  the 
river.  -After  passing  about  five  miles  of  rocky  banks,  the  country  be- 
comes more  and  more  thickly  wooded.  WTe  breakfast  on  young  gulls 
and  old  green  parrots,  the  latter  very  poor  living,  even  when  made  into 
soup.  The  men  dip  their  fingers  into  the  pot ; the  captain  carries  along 
with  him  a spoon  made  of  horn,  which  he  carefully  wipes  on  the 
tail  of  his  camecita  before  taking  his  seat  at  breakfast.  He  reclines  on 
the  bank  while  the  others  prepare  the  meals,  after  he  has  waited 
upon  the  “patron,”  one  of  the  men  appears  before  him  with  a cup  of 
water,  or  light  for  his  cigar.  The  crew  never  sing  or  whistle  on  a 
voyage  like  this ; it  is  generally  understood  such  noises  disturb  the 
savages.  They  quietly  laugh  at  monkeys  at  midday,  and  joke  the 


270 


HOUBARAYOS  INDIANS. 


old  geijse  as  they  trot  along  the  beach  with  a brood  of  little  ones. 
When  the  wind  blows  from  the  southeast,  the  men  shiver  and  shake  for 
the  want  of  proper  clothing,  and  work  much  the  best  when  it  blows 
from  the  northwest,  under  a clear  hot  sun. 

At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  78°;  water,  77°;  wind  southeast.  At  3 p. 
m.,  thermometer,  80°;  water,  78°;  wind  northwest;  lightning  to  the 
north.  The  Indians  decorate  their  hats  with  the  green  and  scarlet 
feathers  of  the  parrots  shot.  Current  of  the  river  one  mile  and  a half 
per  hour.  We  came  to  a shoal  in  the  middle  of  the  river  where  the 
channel  was  only  fifteen  feet  deep  ; parties  of  small  seals  barked  at  us, 
and  the  men  saw  a “ Gran  Bestia”  looking  out  from  among  the  foliage. 
The  woods  are  cut  up  in  paths  made  by  these  heavy  animals,  who  come 
down  the  banks  to  drink  in  the  river.  The  alligators  make  use  of  the 
ends  of  the  paths  to  bask  in  the  sun.  Tigers  are  not  particular  about 
keeping  in  the  old  beaten  track,  but  roam  through  the  grass  and  bushes 
after  the  scent.  The  Indians  shot  a number  of  fish  to-day.  The  Mamore 
is  well  supplied  with  animal  life — though  the  alligators  are  small,  there 
are  great  numbers  of  them. 

After  dark,  a pole  was  stuck  in  the  sand  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
near  a flat  beach,  which  extended  some  distance  back  from  the  water, 
perfectly  clear  of  vegetable  growth.  The  bow  of  the  canoe  was  fas- 
tened to  the  pole,  and  she  swung  to  the  current  of  the  stream.  • We 
were  trying  to  sleep,  but  the  musquitoes  disputed  the  question  with  us 
all.  At  midnight,  some  birds  roosting  on  the  flat  began  to  fly  up  and 
cry  out ; in  an  instant  every  Indian  silently  raised  his  head,  and  while 
looking  intently  towards  the  beach,  they  all  laid  their  hands  on  their 
paddles.  The  screaming  of  the  disturbed  birds  became  more  general, 
and  those  nearest  us  began  to  take  up  the  cry  of  alarm.  MamoiA,  who 
was  lying  on  the  baggage,  uttered  a sleepy  growl,  when  the  old  cap- 
tain whispered  to  me,  that  the  savage  Houbarayos  were  approaching  us. 
The  stake  was  pulled  quietly  in,  each  man  inserted  his  paddle  deep  into 
the  water,  and  with  a powerful  pull  together,  the  canoe  silently  glided 
into  mid  channel.  As  the  current  carried  us  rapidly  down  through  the 
darkness,  the  men  were  ready  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  we  with  fire 
arms.  No  noise  was  heard  above  that  of  the  screaming  of  the  birds  ; 
we  could  not  see  any  enemy,  but  the  captain  and  crew  said  they  saw 
several  men.  These  fellows  are  not  easily  entrapped ; we  were  struck 
with  the  admirable  order  with  which  they  handled  then-  canoe,  and 
were  ready  to  return  a shower  of  arrows.  They  watch  closely  the 
movements  of  all  animals ; could  tell  by  the  alarm  cry  of  the  birds 
that  some  one  approached,  as  they  knew  the  difference  between  the 


RIO  ITENEZ. 


271 


notes  of  a bird  distur  bed  by  man,  and  those  sounds  produced  from  other 
sources — wild  animals,  or  one  of  their  own  feather.  They  tell  me  that 
some  of  their  tribe  were  robbed  and  murdered  by  these  savages  during 
the  night  while  encamped  on  the  bank  in  this  neighborhood,  and  that 
it  is  best  to  remain  in  the  boat  all  night.  We  drifted  down  the  Ma- 
mord,  and  before  the  break  of  day,  under  a bright  moon,  turned  up 
into  the  Itenez  river,  which  divides  the  territory  of  Bolivia  from  the 
empire  of  Brazil.  The  crew  hug  the  Brazil  shore  where  there  ar  e no 
inhabitants,  and  paddle  with  a will  against  an  half  mile  current.  Here 
we  are  forced  to  turn  away  from  the  direct  road  towards  home,  for  the 
purpose  of  procuring  the  means  of  getting  there.  The  boat  we  are  in 
is  unfit  for  the  navigation  of  the  Madeira,  between  us  and  the  Amazon. 
This  valuable  crew  of  civil  men  are  inexperienced  beyond  their  own 
country.  We  must  now  grope  our  way  among  the  Brazils. 

I had  thought,  while  detained  in  Trinidad,  we  should  have  had  a few 
good  North  American  carpenters  and  seamen  along,  to  build  a boat  and 
launch  her  on  our  way  to  the  Atlantic,  but  last  night’s  experience  taught 
me  to  believe  I was  mistaken ; unless  sailors  understand  the  cries  of 
birds  better  than  I do,  we  might  have  all  been  cut  off  in  the  darkness 
of  night,  before  the  rising  of  the  moon.  These  Cayavabos  Indians  are 
good  fellows ; they  say  very  little,  and  keep  thinking  as  well  by  night 
as  by  day.  I asked  the  captain  if  he  was  certain  we  were  in  the  Itenez 
river  ? “ I don’t  know,  patron,  but,”  said  he,  “ that  is  the  land  of  Bra- 

zil,” pointing  to  the  east  bank,  “ and  this  is  the  way  to  Matto  Grosso.” 

The  Itenez  river  varies  in  width  from  four  to  six  hundred  yards,  with 
white  sandy  bottom  and  shoals.  The  color  of  the  water  is  clear  dark 
green  ; half  a mile  current,  with  a winding  channel,  through  sand  flats, 
decreasing  from  thirty-three  feet  depth  to  six  feet.  Seals  and  river  por- 
poises are  in  great  numbers,  while  the  shores  are  lined  with  water  fowl. 

At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  80° ; water,  82°.  The  difference  between 
the  temperature  of  the  Marnore  and  Itenez  is  4°  Fahrenheit.  The  Bra- 
zil water  is  clear  and  green,  with  white  sand  bottom,  while  that  of  Bo- 
livia is  muddy,  and  of  a milky  color,  with  grey  sand  and  clay  bottom. 
The  muddy  water  is  the  best;  we  are  all  complaining  of  pains  after 
drinking  Itenez  water ; it  bears  a bad  character  among  the  canoe-men. 

The  country  is  low  and  well  wooded ; the  banks  overflow  in  the  rainy 
season  ; the  foliage  on  the  Brazil  side  of  the  river  is  the  richest  green  ; 
the  dew  at  night  is  quite  heavy,  and  during  the  calm  days  the  sun  is 
oppressively  warm.  At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  86°;  water,  81°.  After 
night  we  secured  the  canoe  to  a stake  on  a flat  in  mid  channel.  Soon 
after  we  fell  asleep,  a tiger  came  to  the  bank,  and  while  smelling  the 


272 


FORTE  DO  PRINCIPE  DA  BEIRA. 


party,  growled  fiercely  for  some  time ; we  were  then  kept  awake  by  the 
musquitoes  which  swarmed  about  us. 

September  6,  1852. — Our  paddles  were  dipped  in  the  river  at  4 in 
the  morning  watch.  The  men  get  out  of  the  channel,  and  often  run 
the  canoe  on  the  shoals.  The  thermometer  dipped  into  the  water  near 
these  sand  flats  gives  88°,  showing  the  difference  of  7°  between  the 
slack  water  of  the  river,  and  that  in  the  middle  of  the  current,  which 
varies  in  its  speed  from  half  to  one  and  eight-tenths  of  a mile  per  hour. 
The  bed  of  this  river  is  very  uneven,  few  snags,  but  in  some  places  we 
find  rocks  along  the  bank,  and  standing  up  in  mid  channel.  At  8.30 
a.  m.,  thermometer,  85° ; water,  81°  ; dear  and  calm.  The  foliage  and 
grasses  extend  down  the  sloping  Brazil  bank  into  the  water,  and  the 
palm  trees  loom  up  above  the  tops  of  other  trees,  while  on  the  Bolivia 
shore  the  bank  breaks  down  perpendicularly,  with  a large  growth  of 
forest  trees.  Before  Sundown,  we  came  in  sight  of  high  land  to  the 
southeast.  We  are  now  approaching  the  eastern  side  of  the  Madeira 
Plate ; the  hills  appear  beyond  the  flat  country  like  islands  at  sea. 

September  7. — We  are  disturbed  all  night  by  musquitoes.  The  heavy 
dew  falls  upon  the  crew  as  they  are  sleeping  in  mid-channel.  Fifteen 
of  us  pass  the  night  in  a space  thirty-nine  feet  by  four,  which  is  rather 
close  stowage,  with  a dog  in  the  middle.  At  9 a.  m.  breakfasted  on  the 
rocks,  by  the  Brazil  banks,  upon  turtle  and  alligator  eggs,  with  chicken 
gull  stew.  Two  small  creeks  empty  into  the  Itenez  from  the  Brazils. 
We  came  to  rapids  where  the  bed  of  the  river  was  very  rocky.  There 
are  fewer  fish  in  this  stream  than  in  the  Mamore ; some  of  those  caught 
are  very  curious  in  appearance. 

As  the  men  forced  the  canoe  through  the  narrow  rapid  channel,  they 
shouted  the  news  that  Forte  do  Principe  da  Beira  was  in  sight.  We 
could  see  the  flag-pole  and  the  upper  bastions.  Its  situation  was  com- 
manding. A steamer  of  less  than  six  feet  draught  could  ascend  to  these 
rocks,  which  are  four  miles  from  the  fort,  but  no  farther  at  this  season 
of  the  year.  The  rocks  are  so  low  that  many  of  them  are  overflowed 
during  the  rainy  season.  The  crew  had  some  difficulty  in  forcing  the 
canoe  up  among  the  rocks ; the  current  rushed  through  narrow  channels 
with  great  force. 

As  we  neared  the  fort  our  small  American  ensign  was  supported  by 
a Cayavabo  arrow  in  the  stern.  We  see  soldier  people  rushing  about 
as  though  they  had  been  suddenly  awakened  from  sleep  or  surprised. 
A canoe  came  down  to  meet  us  with  two  armed  negro  soldiers ; one  of 
them  politely  gave  his  commander’s  compliments  to  me,  with  the  request 
that  we  would  keep  off.  As  this  appeared  warlike,  I sent  my  cornpli- 


BRAZIL  SHORE  OF  THE  IT  EN  EZ  RIVER 


NEGRO  SOLDIERS. 


273 


ments  to  tlie  commander  that  we  would  remain  by  the  rocky  island  in 
the  middle  of  the  river  until  he  read  a letter  from  the  Brazilian  minister 
plenipotentiary  in  Bolivia,  which  I sent  him  by  the  negro  sergeant. 
Two  old  bald-headed  negroes  came,  by  order  of  the  commander,  to  in- 
quire if  we  had  any  cases  of  smallpox  on  board,  saying,  if  not,  the  com- 
mander invited  us  to  land  at  the  fort.  One  of  these  negroes,  fully 
supplied  with  smiles  and  white  teeth,  was  the  surgeon  of  the  post ; the 
other,  with  broken  spectacles,  was  the  armorer,  who,  together,  seemed 
to  be  the  health  officers  of  the  post.  We  had  never  seen  people  quite 
so  black. 

As  we  landed,  a young  negro  lieutenant  in  the  emperor’s  army  came 
to  meet  me,  and  offered,  in  the  most  polite  manner,  to  escort  me  to  a 
house  in  town.  There  was  a shed  in  sight  on  the  bank,  which  was  the 
guard-house.  As  we  passed,  there  was  so  much  pulling  at  white  trou- 
sers and  blue  jackets,  it  was  evident  the  negro  soldiers  had  been  hur- 
riedly dressed ; the  officers  had  their  hair  curled  extra.  While  they 
respectfully  saluted  Uncle  Sam’s  uniform,  we  noticed,  for  the  first  time, 
how  very  awkwardly  the  negro  handles  the  musket.  As  we  rose  upon 
the  forty-feet  bank  there  stood  the  fort,  pierced  for  fifty-six  heavy  guns, 
pointing  in  all  directions  towards  a perfect  wilderness.  The  view  down 
the  river  as  well  as  up  is  very  impressive.  The  soldiers  wear  leather 
slippers,  and  a hat  manufactured  wedge-shape,  probably  that  the  rays 
of  the  vertical  sun  may  be  split  as  they  fall  upon  the  negro  head. 

Some  paces  north  of  the  fort  were  a few  wretched  little  negro  huts, 
in  which  the  wives  of  the  soldiers  lived,  and  where  a part  of  the  force 
was  permitted  to  sleep,  by  turns,  during  the  night.  One  of  these  huts 
was  offered  to  us  ; it  contained  one  table  and  two  chairs  ; was  built  of 
cane,  plastered  with  adobe,  tile  roof,  with  rat-holes  in  the  corners  of  the 
floor.  The  chairs  were  set  out  at  the  door,  and  Senor  Commandante  Don 
Pedro  Luis  Pais  de  Carvalho  came  to  pay  us  a visit.  He  was  a thin, 
middle-sized,  dark-complexioned  Brazilian,  above  fifty  years  of  age,  ex- 
ceedingly mild  and  gentlemanly  in  manners  ; at  once  apologized  for  the 
general  order  throughout  the  empire,  prohibiting  the  commanders  of  all 
fortifications  from  inviting  a foreigner  inside  the  walls  ; he  said  that  the 
president  of  the  province  of  Matto  Grasso,  under  whose  jurisdiction  the 
Forte  do  Principe  da  Beira  was,  had  instructed  him  to  be  careful  the 
smallpox  was  not  introduced  among  the  soldiers  from  the  department 
of  the  Beni,  which  was  the  cause  of  our  being  requested  not  to  land. 
I told  him  we  were  anxious  to  go  from  the  fort  down  the  Madeira  river, 
and  asked  his  opinion  of  the  practicability  of  making  the  journey.  He  said 
the  president  of  the  province  at  Cuyaba,  the  capital,  who  was  a French 
18 


274 


POLITENESS  OF  THE  COMMANDANTE. 


naval  officer,  with  the  rank  of  captain  of  frigate,  had  ordered  him  to  do 
everything  in  his  power  to  assist  me;  the  only  boat  fit  for  the  service 
in  the  port  was  a small  one  belonging  to  a citizen,  whom  he  daily  ex- 
pected from  Bolivia — my  friend,  Don  Antonio — and  it  was  possible  wre 
could  get  that,  and  he  might  supply  a crew  from  his  small  force  of  forty 
negro  soldiers. 

The  commandante  assured  me  there  were  no  boats  at  the  town  of 
Matto  Grosso,  such  as  are  used  for  descending  the  Madeira  river,  and 
the  chance  of  getting  men  there  was  very  uncertain.  The  voyage  up 
the  Itenez,  from  the  fort  to  that  town,  would  occupy  over  a month. 
I found  our  only  hope  was  now  vested  in  the  kindness  of  this  Brazilian 
officer,  and  of  Don  Antonio,  who  had  not  yet  overtaken  us;  but  as  he  had 
already  promised  me  the  boat,  the  commandante  politely  offered  to  have 
her  at  once  put  in  order  for  me.  As  we  could  swing  our  hamacs  under 
the  guard-shed,  near  the  river,  and  better  attend  to  our  preparations 
there,  the  Cuyavabos  moved  our  baggage  up,  and  we  took  our  quarters 
with  the  negro-guard,  instead  of  among  the  twenty  huts  inhabited  by 
black  families  of  the  station. 

The  walls  of  the  fort  are  built  of  stone,  in  the  shape  of  a hollow  square, 
with  diamond  corners,  thirty-five  feet  high.  There  are  two  entrances 
on  the  northwest  front ; one  a large  door-way,  at  which  is  a constant 
sentinel,  and  a subterraneous  passage  from  the  inside,  leading  to  the 
bank,  just  above  the  annual  rise  of  the  river  in  the  rainy  season,  or  thirty 
feet  above  its  present  level.  The  third  entrance  is  through  the  south- 
west wall,  fastened  by  large  iron-bound  and  double  wooden  doors.  The 
trenches  round  the  walls  are  twenty  feet  deep.  In  walking  round 
the  ramparts,  I only  saw  two  heavy  iron  guns  mounted,  which  pointed 
down  the  river  towards  the  territory  of  Bolivia.  The  date  over  the  maiu 
entrance  of  the  fort  was  nearly  erased  by  the  weather.  We  could  with 
difficulty  make  out  “Joseph  I,  June  20, 1'7'76.”  The  commandante  was 
unable  to  give  us  much  of  its  past  history.  The  Portuguese  engineers 
cwho  built  it  came  up  the  Madeira  river  from  the  Amazon,  bringing  with 
v them  a small  colony,  who  settled  here  by  order  of  the  King  of  Portugal, 
and,  after  building  the  fort,  moved  away,  leaving  none  but  the  garrison 
•within  its  immense  walls,  which  enclose  over  an  acre  of  land.  The  stone 
of  which  it  is  built  was  quarried  near  by. . The  magazine  on  the  south- 
east side,  half  a mile  distant,  also  built  of  stone,  has  gone  to  ruin  and  is 
not  used.  A subterraneous  passage  leads  from  the  fort  to  it. 

The  country  around  is  low  and  overflowed  in  the  wet  season,  with  the 
exception  of  three  small  hills  in  sight,  to  the  northeast.  These  are 
situated  to  the  southwest  of  that  ridge  of  mountains  marked  on  the 


275 


CUYAVABOS  CREW. 

common  atlas — “ Geral  mountains.”  The  situation  of  this  fort  is  usually 
called  “ Lamego and  the  river  “ Guapore.”  There  are  a few  wild  Indians 
roaming  about  the  country  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  of  which  very  little 
is  known.  They  never  make  their  appearance  at  the  fort,  and  the 
commandante  never  troubles  himself  about  them.  He  sits  in  his  castle 
for  months  without  seeing  a stranger,  grumbling  at  the  cold  southeast 
winds.  His  rheumatic  pains  are  better  when  the  warm  northwest  winds 
clear  away  the  clouds.  The  negro  soldiers  plant  sugar  cane,  pine  apples, 
and  produce  a few  oranges.  The  government  rations  are  farinha,  sent 
from  Matto  Grosso,  and  beef  when  they  can  get  it  from  the  “Baure” 
Indians,  in  Bolivia,  whence  this  portion  of  the  inhabitants  of  Brazil  re- 
ceive their  coffee , chocolate , and  sugar , by  the  rivers  Machupos  and  Mag- 
delina. 

This  side  of  the  Madeira  Plate  presents  a very  different  appearance 
from  the  Andes  side.  The  commandante  tells  me  he  has  navigated  the 
low  lands  between  this  fort  and  the  town  of  Matto  Grosso,  formerly 
called  Villa  Bella.  The  negro  cook  of  the  commandante  prepared  us  a 
supper  of  chicken  and  rice.  We  slept  comfortably  and  soundly  in  the 
guard-house  after  our  harassing  voyage.  The  Cuyavabos  crew  wanted  to 
return  to  Exaltacion  at  once.  I told  them  they  must  wait  until  we  decided 
whether  it  was  necessary  to  go  on  to  Matto  Grosso.  The  captain  shook 
his  head  and  said,  no,  Sehor.  Every  man  of  the  crew  declared  that  the 
correjidor  of  Exaltacion  had  directed  them  to  return  home  as  soon  as  they 
landed  us  here.  Whether  this  was  so  or  not  we  are  ignorant,  but  as  the 
correjidor  particularly  told  them  before  me  to  take  us  to  Matto  Grosso,  I 
was  curious  to  see  what  our  chances  would  have  been  in  case  we  were 
entirely  dependent  upon  this  boat’s  crew.  They  refused  positively  to  go 
up  the  Itenez  any  further,  saying  they  had  never  been  to  Matto  Grosso, 
and  knew  nothing  of  the  river,  but  must  hurry  back  and  gather  their 
crop  of  sugar.  They  traded  three  raw  hides  for  a few  fish-hooks.  The 
commandante  gave  them  a written  passport  to  return  to  Exallacion. 
Their  canoe  was  light,  and  they  paddled  swiftly  down  through  the  rocks, 
with  the  current,  as  though  they  were  glad  to  escape  a longer  journey. 
I doubt  if  they  could  have  been  persuaded,  under  any  circumstances,  to 
make  the  voyage  to  Matto  Grosso.  They  landed  us  here  the  seventh 
day  out,  and  will  be  full  nine  days  returning  against  the  current  of  the 
Mamore. 

Every  day  two  of  the  soldiers  are  detailed  to  catch  fish  for  the  garri- 
son. Although  the  trip  from  San  Joaquin  to  the  fort  can  be  made  in 
three  days  with  beef,  the  men  say  they  seldom  get  it.  The  monthly 
mail  was  despatched  from  the  fort  while  we  were  there.  A small  boat 


276 


FRIENDSHIP  OF  DON  ANTONIO. 


was  loaded  with  the  bags  and  baggage  of  five  men  and  the  same  num- 
ber of  women.  They  all  came  to  bid  the  commandante  good-bye,  as 
he  sat  with  us  uuder  the  guard-shed.  He  told  them  he  never  expected 
to  see  them  again  : he  knew  they  all  intended  to  desert  him.  But  both 
men  and  women  declared  their  intention  to  return.  The  passage  is 
made  to  Matto  Grosso  in  forty  days  by  these  mail-carriers ; from  thence 
the  despatches  are  carried  through  the  country  by  mules  to  Cuyaba  in 
twenty-two  days,  from  which  place  there  is  a regular  monthly  mail  to 
Rio  Janeiro.  The  canoe  is  polled  and  paddled  up  the  Itenez,  said  to  be 
very  shallow  at  this  season  of  the  year,  with  rocky  and  sandy  bed.  It 
is  possible,  as  the  river  rises  thirty  feet  in  the  wet  season,  that  a steam- 
boat may  be  able  to  reach  Matto  Grosso  from  the  mouth  of*the  Itenez; 
but  during  the  dry  season  it  is  not  navigable  for  anything  larger  than  a 
first-class  canoe. 

Don  Antonio  arrived  and  reported  our  crew  returning.  He  at  once 
had  his  boat  fitted  out  and  gave  us  “Pedro” — one  of  his  men,  who  had 
passed  up  the  Madeira  with  him — as  our  pilot.  The  commandante  de- 
tailed five  soldiers  to  take  us  to  Borba.  The  boat  was  a small  Igarite, 
twenty-three  feet  long  and  four  feet  seven  inches  beam.  Her  bottom  was 
of  one  piece,  cut  out  of  a very  large  tree,  with  washboards  nailed  rudely 
on  the  sides,  calked  with  oakum,  and  well  pitched  outside  and  in.  The 
bow  and  stern,  or  two  ends,  were  fastened  up  by  a solid  piece  of  wood, 
also  made  water-proof.  She  was  more  the  shape  of  a barrel  cut  in  half 
lengthwise,  than  a boat.  She  was  strong,  short,  and  good  beam — the 
main  objects.  She  could  stand  being  dragged  over  rocks,  sledded  over 
the  land,  and  worked  quickly  in  a rapid  current  among  rocks  and  saw- 
yers. She  rode  on  short  waves  securely.  The  soldiers  were  accustomed 
to  managing  boats  in  the  rapids  and  among  rocks  by  the  fort,  and  were 
somewhat  experienced,  but  they  never  had  descended  the  Madeira  river. 
They  had  not  passed  from  their  own  native  province,  Matto  Grosso,  and 
were,  like  most  negroes,  anxious  to  travel,  and  particularly  desirous  of 
going  away.  We  had  a number  of  volunteers  among  the  soldiers,  but 
the  commandante  said  some  of  them  wanted  to  desert,  and  he  gave  me 
those  he  supposed  would  be  most  apt  to  return. 

There  are  no  roads  leading  from  the  fortress  except  the  rivers,  so 
that  every  man  understands  something  about  the  management  of  a boat. 
Three  of  the  crew  were  negroes;  one  an  Indiau,  whose  mother  was  savage 
and  father  civilized  Indian — what  an  Englishman  would  call  “half  and 
half.”  The  fifth  was  of  such  a mixed  composition  that  we  were  unable 
to  trace  his  lineage.  He  was  nearer  a white  man  than  a negro,  not  in 
very  good  health,  and  extremely  ill-natured  in  his  expression  of  face. 


DEPARTURE  FOR  THE  AMAZON.  277 

Pedro,  the  pilot,  was  an  Amazonian  Indian,  quite  lazy  and  not  worth 
much,  though  his  services  were  needed,  as  he  was  the  only  one  in  the 
party  who  had  navigated  the  Madeira.  The  soldiers  were  supplied  with 
a decent  suit  of  uniform,  ammunition,  muskets,  and  farinha.  We  were 
obliged  to  reduce  our  baggage ; even  the  jerked  beef  had  to  be  dimin- 
ished in  quantity,  as  well  as  the  men’s  provisions.  The  boat  was  too 
small  when  we  were  all  on  board  to  float  lively.  Four  of  the  soldiers 
took  their  seats  in  the  bow  as  paddlers.  Mamore  mounted  the  baggage, 
with  Pedro  as  pilot ; while  “ Titto,”  the  sergeant,  a stout,  well-built 
V negro,  stood  up  behind  us  and  steered  the  boat.  The  commandante 
gave  me  a passport  for  the  crew,  with  an  account  of  the  public  property 
in  their  charge.  Don  Antonio  entrusted  me  with  a remittance  to  his 
father,  which  was  the  only  sign  we  had  from  the  people  that  we  would 
ever  gain  the  mouth  of  the  Madeira.  To  him  we  are  indebted  for  many 
prominent  kindnesses.  If  he  had  not  been  here  we  certainly  would 
either  have  gone  to  Rio  Janeiro  by  the  mail-route,  or  tried  that  from 
Cuayaba,  down  the  Paraguay,  to  Buenos  Ayres. 

At  midday,  on  the  14th  of  September,  1852,  we  parted  with  Don 
Antonio,  who  expected  to  be  two  years  longer  trading  off  the  cargoes 
of  his  two  small  boats,  which  he  left  at  Exaltacion  during  a voyage  to 
Matto  Grosso.  He  appears  disappointed  with  his  undertaking,  and  de- 
clares he  never  will  make  such  a voyage  again.  He  supports  a party 
of  twelve  people.  They  remain  by  him  in  idleness  during  the  time  he 
is  occupied  disposing  of  his  cargo,  each  man  drawing  regular  pay,  from 
four  to  six  dollars  a month.  As  our  little  boat  passed  swiftly  down  the 
current  among  the  rocks,  the  men  paddled  as  though  they  feared  being 
recalled.  They  all  sang  as  we  bid  farewell  to  the  grim  old  fort.  The 
commandante  treated  us  with  marked  attention,  and  appeared  sorry  to 
let  us  go  so  soon.  He  said  he  had  spent  several  years  in  his  younger 
career  as  an  officer  at  the  fort.  Officers  generally  shrunk  from  orders 
here,  for  the  place  had  the  name  of  being  unhealthy.  After  the  death 
of  its  last  commander,  he  had  been  selected  for  the  station  because  he 
was  acclimated. 

There  is  a horrible  disease  among  the  soldiers,  called  the  “ Fort  fe- 
ver,” which,  for  the  want  of  medicine,  slowly  destroys  the  garrison.  We 
found  the  climate  quite  pleasant,  but  its  general  character  is  any  thing 
but  favorable  from  reports. 

Thirty  miles  below  the  fort  I sealed  a bottle,  and  threw  it  into  the 
Itenez  river,  with  a note  inside,  requesting  the  finder  to  enclose  it  to 
Washington  city.  Titto  was  somewhat  surprised  at  what  he  saw  us 
doing,  and  inquired  who  the  note  in  the  bottle  was  directed  to,  and 


278 


MOUTH  OF  THE  ITENEZ. 


wliy  it  was  thrown  into  the  current.  On  being  told  that  the  bottle 
would  go  to  North  America  in  the  water,  if  undisturbed,  he  told  the 
other  negroes,  the  gentleman  had  sent  a letter  home  in  that  bottle.  A 
tall,  ugly  looking  negro  in  the  bows,  answered  in  Portuguese,  “ It  don’t 
go  there.”  The  negroes  all  engaged  in  an  argument  upon  the  subject. 
Titto  said  it  would  certainly  go  somewhere ; that  it  could  not  go  to 
Matto  Grosso,  because  the  current  of  the  river  flowed  from  there  to  the 
fort.  A little  sleek  black,  by  the  side  of  the  other,  shook  himself, 
laughed  out  loud,  and  paddling  with  all  his  might,  said,  “ Come,  boys, 
let  us  get  along  down ; that  nigger  in  the  stern  of  the  boat  is  right.” 

On  the  evening  of  the  16th  of  September  we  landed  silently  on  the 
sand  flat,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Itenez,  for  the  purpose  of  making  an 
observation  upon  the  stars  for  latitude.  The  men  stood  at  ease  with 
their  arms,  while  Richards  drove  the  musquitoes  away  with  a bunch  of 
green  bushes,  for  the  observer  is  constantly  under  the  necessity  of  being 
fanned.  We  were  on  the  Brazilian  shore,  while  a great  prairie-fire  lit 
up  the  night  for  the  savage  “ Houbarayos”  on  the  Bolivia  side  of  the 
river.  We  succeeded  in  getting  a good  observation,  and  after  continu- 
ing down  stream  some  distance,  swung  to  a snag  in  mid-channel  during 
the  night. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  1 7th  of  September  we  came  to  the 
junction  where  the  Itenez  empties  into  the  Mamore.  The  beach  was 
lined  with  water-fowl ; alligators  lay  on  the  sand  like  canoes,  half  out 
of  water ; porpoises  were  playing  about,  while  fish  were  jumping.  Even 
the  prairie  and  forest  birds  seem  to  come  down  to  join  the  congrega- 
tion. It  was  evident,  by  the  conduct  of  the  birds  and  the  fishes,  that 
they  had  all  collected  together  in  one  place  for  some  particular  public 
purpose. 

The  water  of  the  Itenez  is  4°  warmer  than  the  water  of  the  Mamore. 
During  the  cool  nights,  the  fishes  and  the  birds  sleep  in  or  by  the 
warmer  water,  which  protects  them.  We  saw  a wild  hog  feeding  near 
the  bank ; he,  too,  had  been  sleeping  near  the  warm  bed  of  the  Itenez. 
There  are  exceptions  to  this  practice,  both  among  the  fishes  and  birds  ; 
some  of  the  fish  ascend  the  muddy  stream,  while  others  seek  the  clear. 
Many  fish  we  recognise  in  the  Mamore,  like  those  found  in  the  northern 
rivers  of  the  United  States ; while  those  in  the  Itenez  seem  to  take  after 
families  we  had  known  living  in  streams  flowing  through  the  sandy  soil  of 
Florida.  The  porpoises  of  the  sea  are  ot  a deep  blue  color ; those  of  the 
turbid  waters  of  the  Mamore  are  lighter.  In  the  limpid  waters  of  the 
Itenez,  the  porpoise  has  a light  white  and  pink  color,  though  all  puff 
and  jump  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  are  of  the  same  size, 


RIO  MAMORE. 


279 


shape,  and  manners.  The  drift-wood,  and  more  active  current  of  the 
Mamore,  produce  an  enlivening  effect.  After  repairing  one  of  our  pad- 
dles, which  was  broken  by  hard  pulling,  we  launched  our  boat,  and 
were  carried  gallantly  on  the  Mamore  once  more. 

The  distance  by  the  river  from  the  mouth  of  the  Itenezto  Fort  Beira, 
is  about  fifty -five  miles  in  an  east-southeast  direction ; opposite  the  junc- 
tion of  these  rivers,  there  are  three  small  hills  on  the  Brazil  side.  The 
Mamore  turns  its  course  from  a north  direction  a little  to  the  westward. 
The  stream  here  comes  in  contact  with  the  solid  formation  of  coarse 
granite  in  the  Brazils.  The  commandante  of  the  fort  told  me  his  father 
made  a fortune  by  collecting  diamonds  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Pa- 
raguay in  Brazil,  and  that  he  had  found  traces  of  the  same  stones  in 
the  bed  of  the  Itenez.  The  sharp  angular  edges  of  the  diamond,  put 
in  motion  by  rippling  water,  cuts  itself  a little  hole  in  the  hardest  rocks. 
As  the  waters  rush  over  it  in  the  wet  season,  the  diamond  works  deeper 
and  deeper,  so  that  common  stones  may  enter  the  hole.  The  water 
whirls  round  in  this  hole,  the  common  stones  wear  away  the  sides,  and 
increase  the  size  of  the  cavity,  while  the  diamonds  are  busily  at  work 
at  the  bottom.  In  such  holes  the  diamond  hunter  seeks  his  wealth. 
We  find  no  traces  of  silver  or  gold  on  this  side  of  the  Madeira  Plate. 
We  passed  through  a rapid,  between  rocks  on  the  banks,  getting  a cast 
of  the  lead  and  no  bottom. 

September  17. — At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  7S°;  water,  79°;  wind 
southeast.  The  banks  are  thirty  feet  high,  and  well  wooded.  The 
river  is  five  hundred  yards  wide,  with  a depth  of  from  thirty  to  sixty 
feet.  The  country  on  both  sides  of  us  appears  well  adapted  for  culti- 
vation, many  parts  of  it  being  above  the  rising  of  the  floods.  Pedro 
tells  me  we  have  the  “Sinabos”  savages  on  the  Brazil  side  of  us,  and 
the  equally  uncivilized  tribe  of  “Jibo”  on  the  Bolivia  side.  Our  men 
woik  well ; with  a one-mile  current,  we  keep  on  day  and  night.  Large 
green  and  black  flies  annoy  us  very  much,  in  addition  to  which  we 
have  sand-flies  and  musquitoes  at  night.  At  3 p.m.,  thermometer,  87°; 
water,  80°;  wind  southeast.  As  the  moon  went  down,  heavy  clouds 
rose  up  in  the  east,  and  lightning  flashed  there.  The  men  slept  while 
we  drifted  along  among  snags.  Here  and  there  a sawyer  bobbed  up 
his  head.  The  only  way  to  keep  clear  of  them  is  by  listening  to  the 
music  of  the  waters  playing  against  the  logs  as  we  pass  in  the  darkness 
of  the  night.  One  man  keeps  watch  with  his  paddle  in  the  bow.  He 
watches  and  talks  to  us  at  the  same  time.  He  tells  me  the  Emperor 
of  Brazil  pays  him  sixteen  mil  reis  a month,  and  finds  him  in  board 
and  lodging.  Mil  reis  vary  in  value ; at  present  worth  fifty-five  cents. 


280 


NEGRO  SOLDIER  ON  WATCH. 


He  is  not  a slave,  blit  was  born  a free  negro,  which  is  the  case  with 
most  of  those  who  enter  the  army.  Every  man  born  free  has  either  to 
serve  the  Emperor  or  pay  tax  money.  As  he  had  no  money,  he  was 
obliged  to  enlist.  He  did  not  know  how  long  he  was  enlisted  for,  or 
when  he  would  be  permitted  to  go  home  to  Cuyaba,  where  his  mother 
lived.  He  had  asked  a number  of  times  to  be  paid  off  and  discharged; 
but  he  was  answered  the  Emperor  required  his  services,  so  he  is  uncer- 
tain when  he  will  be  able  to  get  off ; though,  when  he  returns  from  this 
trip  faithfully,  and  reports  himself  to  the  commandante,  he  may  be  per- 
mitted to  go  to  Matto  Grosso  with  the  mail,  and  then  he  thinks  of 
detaching  himself  by  not  returning.  Slaves  are  not  employed  as  soldiers, 
he  tells  me;  only  the  free  blacks.  From  his  tone,  he  considers  the  man 
who  cultivates  the  sugar-cane  and  cotton-plant  is  degraded,  compared 
with  his  own  occupation.  According  to  his  account,  there  are  a great 
number  of  free-born  black  people  in  the  province  of  Matto  Grosso.  He 
considers  the  town  of  Matto  Grosso  a miserable  place  compared  with 
Cuyaba.  The  people  in  the  former  place  are  all  very  poor — mostly 
colored  folks — and  the  country  round  about  is  very  little  cultivated ; 
but  in  the  latter  town  there  are  rich  white  people,  he  says,  who  own  slaves 
and  cultivate  corn  and  beans.  Fie  always  has  plenty  of  tobacco  to 
smoke  in  Cuyaba,  but  at  Fort  Beira  the  men  have  very  little ; they 
are  often  without  it,  as  well  as  pine  apples  and  plantains.  The  negroes 
at  Cuyaba  have  balls  and  parties,  music  and  dancing,  every  night. 
They  don’t  drink  chicha,  nor  do  they  understand  how  to  make  it ; but 
they  drink  great  quantities  of  aguadiente,  which  the  Emperor  don’t 
give  them  as  a part  of  their  rations.  They  never  get  any  at  the  fort 
except  by  the  mail-boat.  When  letters  come  from  the  Emperor,  then 
the  soldiers  get  a jug  or  two  of  aguadiente  by  the  mail-carriers,  and  it 
is  used  up  at  once. 

September  18. — The  negroes  gathered  a quantity  of  cream  or  Brazil 
nuts  from  under  a large  tree  on  the  Bolivia  side.  The  nuts  are  encased 
in  a hard  shell,  which  the  men  broke  with  our  hatchet.  The  tree  was 
one  of  the  largest  in  the  forest,  and  the  only  one  of  the  kind  we  saw. 
Pedro  pointed  it  out  to  them,  otherwise  we  probably  should  have  passed 
it  without  knowing  such  good  things  were  near  us.  The  nuts,  with  a 
turkey  and  goose,  shot  on  the  beach,  served  us  for  breakfast.  The 
negroes  are  poor  fishermen  compared  with  the  Indians.  There  appear 
fewer  fishes  below  the  juncture  of  the  Itenez  with  the  Mamore ; the 
water  is  still  muddy.  At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  80° ; and  water  of  the 
same  temperature,  which  is  rather  warm  drinking ; clear  and  calm.  At 
3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  88°;  water,  83°.  The  river  is  half  a mile  wide 


GUAJARA-MEKIM  FALLS. 


281 


in  some  places,  and  the  channel  clear  of  drift-wood,  with  from  twenty- 
four  to  forty-eight  feet  depth. 

September  19. — A turn  in  the  river  brought  us  in  sight  of  high  land 
to  the  north.  The  negroes  blew  two  cow’s  horns,  and  shouted  at  the 
sight  of  it.  Laying  down  their  horns,  they  paddled  with  a will  to  their 
own  musical  songs,  by  which  they  kept  time.  We  met  a north  wind, 
which  created  a short  wave  as  it  met  the  current  of  the  stream,  in- 
creasing in  speed.  The  land  has  become  low  on  both  sides,  and  is 
swampy,  with  signs  of  being  all  flooded  in  the  rainy  season. 

At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  82°;  water,  81°.  At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer, 
8*7° ; water,  80°.  We  passed  an  island,  rocky  and  wooded.  Flowers 
bloom  and  decorate  the  richly  green  foliage  on  the  banks.  The  current 
is  quite  rapid,  and  we  dash  along  at  a rate  we  have  not  been  able  to  do 
before  on  the  Mamore,  passing  the  mouth  of  a small  river — Pacanoba — 
which  flows  from  the  Brazils  and  through  several  islands.  We  came 
alongside  of  one  of  them  for  the  night.  Within  the  death-like,  mourn- 
ful sound  of  the  “Guajara-merim”  falls  our  raw- hides  were  spread,  hair 
side  up,  as  table  and  chairs.  While  the  men  made  a fire,  I was  listening 
to  the  roaring  waters,  and  thinking  what  sensible  fellows  those  Cuyavabos 
Indians  were  to  run  from  it.  The  night  was  starlight ; but  the  mist 
arising  from  the  foaming  waters  below  us  was  driven  over  the  island  by 
the  north  wind,  which  prevented  my  getting  the  latitude.  Small  hills 
stood  a very  short  way  back  from  the  islands,  in  Brazil.  The  land  ap- 
pears to  be  above  the  floods  on  both  sides.  As  we  are  free  from  mus- 
quitoes  at  night,  and  the  savages  do  not  inhabit  our  little  island,  we 
sleep  soundly. 

Sei^temler  20. — By  daylight  we  were  up  and  off,  pulling  across  to  the 
Bolivian  shore  to  the  head  of  the  falls.  AAe  were  in  doubts  how  our 
boat  would  behave  in  the  rapids.  After  taking  out  part  of  the  baggage, 
which  was  passed  over  a rocky  shore  below,  the  boat  was  pulled  through 
without  any  difficulty.  The  channel  was  about  fifty  yards  wide,  with 
very  little  fall ; the  whole  bed  of  the  river  was  divided  by  wooded  islands 
and  black  rocks,  with  large  and  small  channels  of  water  rushing  through 
at  a terrible  rate.  A steamboat  could,  however,  pass  up  and  down  over 
this  fall  without  much  trouble.  We  embarked,  and  found  our  little 
boat,  which  had  been  named  “Nannie,”  gliding  beautifully  over  the 
short  waves  formed  by  the  rapid  motion  of  the  water.  The  rocks  are 
worn  away  in  long  strips,  and  cut  up  into  confused  bits  by  the  action 
of  the  river  constantly  washing  over  them.  On  the  islands,  quantities 
of  drift-wood  and  prairie-grasses  are  heaped  on  the  upper  side. 

One  of  these  islands  occupied  the  middle  of  the  bed  for  three-quarters 


282 


GUAJARA-ASSU  FALLS. 


of  a mile  in  length.  "We  followed  the  channel  down  on  the  Bolivia 
side  to  its  lower  end  at  a rapid  rate ; when  we  came  to  the  foot  of  the 
first  fall  we  looked  back  up-hill , to  see  the  number  of  streams  rushing 
down,  each  one  contributing  its  mite  to  the  roaring  noise  that  was  con- 
stantly kept  up.  We  saw  no  fish,  but  last  night  met  large  flocks  of 
cormorants,  flying  in  a line  stretching  across  the  river,  close  to  the  sur- 
face of  the  water ; this  morning  they  came  down  again.  These  birds 
spend  the  night  over  the  warm  bed  of  the  Itenez,  and  return  here  in 
the  day  to  feed. 

No  sooner  had  we  cleared  these  falls  than  we  found  ourselves  at 
the  head  of  another  rapid,  more  steep,  called  “ Guajara-assu.”  Pedro 
took  us  to  the  upper  end  of  a path  in  the  woods,  on  the  Brazil  shore, 
where  Don  Antonio  had  transported  his  cargo  overland,  three  hundred 
and  fifty  paces,  to  the  foot  of  the  falls.  His  large  boats  were  hauled 
through  the  water  by  means  of  strong  rcpes  rove  through  large  blocks. 

Our  cargo  was  landed,  and  while  Richards,  with  one  man,  was  en- 
gaged carrying  the  baggage  down,  I took  the  boat  over  on  the  Bolivian 
side,  and  we  hauled  her  three  hundred  yards  over  the  rocks  and  through 
the  small  channels,  down  an  inclined  shelf  of  about  twelve  feet  fall. 
The  main  channel  is  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  with  waves  rolled  up 
five  feet  high  by  the  swiftness  of  the  current,  through  which  a steam- 
boat could  pass  neither  up  nor  down. 

The  river  cuts  its  way  through  an  immense  mass  of  rock,  stretching 
across  the  country  east  and  west  like  a great  bar  of  iron.  The  navigation 
of  the  river  Mamore  is  completely  obstructed  here ; the  river’s  gate  is 
closed,  and  we  see  no  way  to  transport  the  productions  of  Bolivia  to 
wards  the  Amazon,  except  by  a road  through  the  Brazilian  territory. 
On  the  east  side  of  the  river,  hills  are  in  sight,  and  among  them  a road 
may  be  found  where  a cargo  might  pass  free  from  inundations. 

The  navigable  distance  by  the  rivers  Chapare  and  Mamore,  from  near 
the  base  of  the  Andes,  at  Vinchuta,  to  Guajara-merim  falls,  is  about 
five  hundred  miles.  We  anxiously  pulled  across  towards  the  baggage, 
as  the  division  of  a party  in  this  wild  region  is  attended  with  great  risk. 
This  day’s  work  gave  us  some  little  experience  in  the  new  mode  of  nav- 
igation. The  sun  is  powerfully  hot,  but  the  negroes  strip  themselves, 
and  ease  the  little  boat  gently  down  in  the  torrent  between  rough  rocks. 
Don  Antonio’s  advice  was  of  the  greatest  importance  to  us  in  the  choice 
of  a boat  and  men.  The  long  canoes  of  Bolivia  would  have  been  bro- 
ken to  pieces  in  this  first  day’s  travel  among  the  rapids.  There  are  no 
paths  through  the  wilderness  by  which  we  could  travel  in  case  of  an 
accident,  and  rafts  we  had  seen  enough  of  at  the  head  of  the  Madre-de- 


BANANEIRA  FALLS. 


2S3 


Dios.  Embarking  our  baggage,  we  continued  under  a heavy  thunder 
storm,  which  came  up  from  the  northeast,  and  whirled  over  our  heads, 
sending  down  heavy  drops  of  rain.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  twenty 
feet  high.  The  country  on  the  Bolivian  side  is  level,  and  there  the 
lands  are  overflowed  half  the  year ; but  the  Brazilian  side  is  hilly  ; the 
ridges  appear  to  run  at  right  angles  with  the  river,  which  passes  over 
the  toes  of  the  foot  of  them.  The  whole  country  is  thickly  wooded  with 
moderate-sized  forest  trees.  The  river  below  these  falls  is  occasionally 
three-quarters  of  a mile  wide,  with  a depth  of  from  twelve  to  thirty-six 
feet.  The  current  is  rapid  as  we  leave,  the  foot  of  the  falls,  gradually 
decreasing  in  speed  until  the  boat  enters  the  backed  water,  which  is 
dammed  up  by  the  next  ridge  of  rocks  which  thwart  the  free  passage  of 
the  river. 

September  21. — At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  83°;  water,  81°.  The 
south  wind  blew  all  last  night,  accompanied  with  rain.  Early  this 
morning  we  arrived  at  the  head  of  “Bananeira”  falls,  distance  eight 
miles  from  the  upper  shelf.  I find  Pedro  useful  in  pointing  out  the  ends 
of  the  paths  over  the  land  cut  by  Don  Antonio.  His  services  as  pilot, 
however,  are  not  to  be  depended  upon.  Titto  seems  to  be  perfectly  at 
home  in  the  management  of  a boat  among  rocks,  and  assists  me  the 
most  of  the  two.  The  cargo  was  landed  on  an  island  near  the  Bolivian 
shore.  The  path  led  through  bushes  and  trees,  down  hill,  near  four 
hundred  yards.  The  work  of  transporting  the  boxes,  amidst  the  annoy- 
ance of  swarms  of  sand-flies,  was  harassing,  and  with  difficulty  Bichards 
could  make  the  ill-natured  member  of  the  crew  carry  as  many  boxes  as 
he  did  himself.  The  river  flowed  windingly ; the  baggage  could  be 
sent  straight  across ; but  the  boat  had  to  be  dragged,  towed,  lifted,  and 
pushed  through  the  rough  rocks  and  rushing  waters  for  over  a mile. 
This  was  trying  work.  The  heat  of  the  sun  was  very  great ; the 
negroes  slipped,  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  at  times  they  could  hold 
the  boat  from  being  carried  from  them  by  the  strength  of  the  waters  as 
they  heavily  passed  through  the  choaked  passages.  The  men  stand 
easing  down  the  boat  up  to  their  necks  in  water.  The  rocks  are  only  a 
few  feet  above  the  water  level ; they  ai'e  smoothed  by  the  wearing  of  the 
water  and  drift  wood.  It  is  not  easy  for  the  men  to  keep  their  feet 
under  water.  These  negroes  are  good  men  for  such  service ; they  crawl 
among  the  rocks  like  black  snakes.  Bananeira  falls  take  their  name 
from  quantities  of  wild  banana  trees  formerly  discovered  here,  but  we  saw 
no  traces  of  them.  The  fall  is  about  twenty  feet.  The  islands  are  gen- 
erally very  low,  a few  feet  above  the  present  surface  of  the  river.  All 
the  rocks,  and  a great  part  of  the  islands,  are  ovei  flowed  in  the  rainy 


284 


BANANEIRA  FALLS. 


season.  Large  heaps  of  drift  wood  lodge  against  the  trees.  On  the 
highest  rocks  we  found  pot-holes,  worn  down  to  the  depth  of  eight  and 
ten  feet  by  the  action  of  small  pebbles,  put  in  motion  by  the  current  as 
it  passes  over  and  whirls  down,  boring  into  the  solid  mass  of  coarse 
granite.  These  pot-holes  are  generally  half  full  of  stones,  the  large 
stones  on  top  ; gradually  descending  towards  the  bottom,  they  were 
smaller,  until  at  the  very  last  they  were  composed  of  bright  little,  trans- 
parent, angular-shaped  stones,  less  in  size  than  a pin’s  head ; among 
these  the  diamond  hunter  looks  sharp.  Some  of  these  pot-holes  are 
three  feet  wide  at  the  mouth,  decreasing  in  edge  uniformly  towards  the 
bottom.  When  we  gained  the  foot  of  these  falls,  over  which  it  is  utterly 
impossible  for  a steamboat  to  pass  at  any  season  of  the  year,  we  had  to 
ascend  a channel  on  the  Bolivia  shore  for  the  baggage.  Mamore  lay  by 
a part  of  it  as  watch,  while  the  rest  of  the  party  were  at  the  other  side  of 
the  island.  We  were  nearly  exhausted ; the  men  had  nothing  to  eat 
half  a day,  and  the  dog  looked  thin  and  sick.  There  were  no  fish,  birds, 
monkeys,  or  Indians  to  be  seen,  nor  were  the  men  successful  in  finding 
castanhas,  Brazil  nuts,  which  they  very  much  needed,  as  they  had  no- 
thing to  eat  but  their  allowance  of  farinha.  The  negroes  were  very  tired, 
but  I observed  the  life  improved  them ; they  looked  stronger,  and  were 
getting  fat.  This  was  a great  relief,  for  we  were  the  worse  for  wear.  I 
was  kept  in  constant  excitement,  lest  some  accident  should  happen  to  our 
boat,  or  that  an  attack  would  be  made  upon  our  baggage  party  by  the 
savages.  At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  85°;  water,  81°,  and  less  muddy  ; 
dashing  over  the  rocks  appears  to  filter  it. 

dhe  boat  was  carried  along  at  a rapid  rate  by  the  current,  which 
boiled  up  and  formed  great  globular-shaped  swells,  over  wdiich  the  little 
boat  gayly  danced  on  her  homeward  way.  The  satisfaction  we  felt, 
after  having  safely  passed  these  terrible  cataracts,  cheers  us  on.  We 
were  nearly  the  whole  day  getting  two  miles.  We  were  prevented  from 
the  danger  in  our  path  to  proceed  at  night.  The  boat  was  fastened  to 
the  Brazil  bank,  and  after  supping  on  a wild  goose  Titto  was  fortunate 
enough  to  shoot,  we  slept  soundly  until  midnight,  when  we  were  sud- 
denly aroused  by  the  report  of  a gun.  The  men  were  lying  by  a fire  on 
the  bank,  near  a thick  tall  growth  of  grass  which  skirted  the  large  forest 
trees.  Richards  was  close  by  me.  I heard  Titto’s  voice  immediately 
following  the  report,  saying  “ the  devil” — we  were  all  up  in  arms ; Titto 
said  he  had  shot  at  a tiger,  which  was  approaching  the  men  as  they  slept; 
Mamore  had  been  faithfully  prowling  in  the  woods,  keeping  close  watch 
over  us  while  we  all  slept ; because  he  gave  the  men  some  trouble  in  the 
boat,  they  laid  this  plan  to  put  our  trusty  friend  to  death.  Richards  found 


DEATH  OF  MAHORE. 


2S5 


the  dog  shot  in  the  heart,  close  by  the  heads  of  the  men,  four  of  whom 
were  in  the  secret,  while  Pedro  and  the  Indian  were  sleeping.  We  placed 
great  confidence  in  the  watchfulness  of  Mamore ; from  him  we  expected 
a quick  report  of  savages  or  wild  animals.  With  him  on  watch  we  slept 
without  fear,  as  the  Indians  are  more  afraid  of  the  bark  of  a large  dog 
than  of  the  Brazilian  soldiers. 

From  what  we  had  seen  of  the  men,  we  were  convinced  they  were 
a rough,  savage  set,  who  would  put  us  to  death  quite  as  unceremoni- 
ously as  the  dog.  They  expressed  an  impudent  dissatisfaction  when  I 
ordered  Titto  to  put  a man  on  watch,  and  keep  sentinel  all  night.  We 
lay  till  daylight,  with  our  pistols  prepared  for  an  attack  from  any  quar- 
ter. The  negro  murderers  on  the  highways  of  Peru  are  more  despe- 
rate and  unmerciful  than  either  tire  Spaniard  or  Mestizo ; so  it  is  with 
a half-civilized  African  negro.  At  daylight  I was  particular  to  let 
every  man  of  them  see  my  revolver.  We  kept  a close  watch  upon 
them,  both  by  night  and  by  day.  They  had  for  some  reason  or  other 
unknown  to  us  taken  a(dis'ike  to  Richards,  who  never  gave  them  an 
order  except  when  he  was  left  on  shore  to  attend  the  portage  of  the 
baggage.  They  were  under  an  impression  we  were  ignorant  of  what 
they  said  when  speaking  their  own  language,  as  Titto  and  Pedro  spoke 
to  me  in  Spanish.  On  one  occasion,  after  the  loss  of  Mamore,  I over- 
heard the  ill-natured  one,  after  Richards  spoke  to  him  about  tossing 
water  into  the  boat  with  his  paddle,  say  to  the  rest  of  the  crew,  “ I 
don’t  know  whether  I won’t  put  a ball  through  that  fellow  yet,  by  acci- 
dent /”  After  which  I had  no  confidence  in  any  of  them,  and  told 
Richards  our  only  safety  remained  in  constant  watchfulness,  and  the 
good  condition  of  our  fire-arms. 

September  22. — The  river  below  Bananeira  falls  is  seventy-eight  feet 
deep  and  half  a mile  wide,  passing  through  rocks  and  islands,  where  we 
found  the  wild  Muscovy  duck.  With  a rapid  current,  we  soon  reached 
the  mouth  of  the  Yata  river,  a small  stream  flowing  from  the  territory 
of  Bolivia,  not  navigable  for  a vessel  larger  than  a ship’s  boat.  At  “ Pau 
Grande”  rapids,  the  country  is  hilly  on  both  sides,  and  wooded  with 
large  trees,  from  which  fact  the  rapids  derive  their  name.  These  rapids 
are  about  five  miles  from  those  above,  with  a fall  of  fifteen  feet  in  one 
hundred  yards.  The  boat  was  carefully  passed  through  narrow  chan- 
nels among  rocks  fourteen  feet  high.  Don  Antonio  came  up  over  these 
falls,  when  the  river  was  flooded,  by  keeping  close  along  shore.  He 
fastened  the  upper  block  of  his  tackle  to  large  trees,  or  heavy  rocks, 
and  by  hard  pulling,  inch  by  inch,  dragged  his  boats  along.  Yo 
steamer  could  pass  up  or  down  “Pau  Grande.”  At  9 a.  m.,  light  north- 


2S6 


LAJENS  RAPIDS. 


erly  breezes;  thermometer,  81°;  water,  81°.  Two  miles  below  brought 
us  to  Lajens  rapids.  The  boat  was  kept  in  mid-channel,  and  paddled 
with  all  the  might  of  the  men  ; we  passed  through  the  rocks  at  such  a 
swift  rate,  hats  had  to  be  held  on.  This  was  a glorious  passage ; the 
little  boat  seemed  to  fly  through  a channel  that  might  be  passed  by  a 
steamboat. 


JACAR.ES  savages. 


287 


CHAPTER  III, 

J acares  savages — Mouth  of  Beni  river — Obstructions  to  steamboat  navigation — 
Madeira  river  falls — Lighten  the  boat — Pot  holes — Granite — Pedreneira  falls 
— Caripuna  savages — Pedro  milks  a savage  woman — Bilious  fever — Arrive 
at  the  foot  of  San  Antonio  falls — The  impracticability  of  navigating  by 
steamboats  the  falls  of  the  Mamore  and  Madeira  rivers — Proposed  road 
through  the  territory  of  Brazil  to  Bolivia — Physical  strength  of  the  white, 
black,  and  red  men,  compared  under  a tropical  climate — Tamandera  island — 
Turtle  eggs — Oil  hunters — Borba — Mouth- of  the  Madeira  river. 

A bark  canoe  lay  by  the  Bolivia  store.  Our  negroes  blew  their 
horns,  which  brought  four  savages  and  a black  dog  to  the  bank.  Two 
of  them  wore  bark  frocks,  and  two  were  naked — real  red  men.  As  we 
floated  along  by  the  current,  the  following  conversation  took  place  between 
the  savages  and  the  negroes:  Savage — “Oh!”  Negro  in  the  bows — 
“Oh!”  Savage — “Venhaca” — come  here — very  clearly  pronounced. 
We  told  them  to  come  to  us,  and  they  ran  away,  while  we  paddled 
slowly  on.  These  Indians  are  of  the  “ Jacares”  tribe;  they  were  soon 
paddling  after  us  fast.  We  waited  but  a short  time.  Their  swift  canoe 
was  constructed  of  one  piece  of  bark,  twenty  feet  long,  and  four  feet 
beam.  The  bark  was  simply  rolled  up  at  each  end,  and  tied  with  a vine 
from  the  woods ; between  the  sides,  several  stretchers,  four  feet  long,  were 
fastened  to  the  edge  of  the  bark  by  small  creepers,  and  a grating,  made 
of  round  sticks  fastened  together  with  creepers,  served  as  a flooring, 
which  kept  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  in  shape,  when  the  Indian  stepped 
into  her.  Two  young  men  dressed  in  bark  dresses  sat  in  the  stern,  or 
one  end,  with  well  made  paddles.  On  the  other  end  sat  two  naked 
women,  each  with  a paddle  lying  across  her  lap.  As  they  came  along- 
side, amidships  sat  an  old  chief  with  a basket  of  yuca,  a bunch  of  plan- 
tains, a large  lump  of  pitch,  and  several  small  pieces  of  a superior  qual- 
ity, called  by  the  Brazilians  “ breu.”  The  Indians  use  it  for  securing 
arrowheads,  we  find  it  serviceable  in  sealing  our  bottles  of  fish,  or  fixing 
the  screw  to  our  ramrod;  besides  which,  the  old  man  brought  one  small 
richly  green  parrot  for  sale.  We  bought  him  out  with  knives  and  fish- 
hooks. One  of  the  women  was  good  looking,  the  figure  of  the  other  was 
somewhat  out  of  the  usual  shape.  On  being  presented  with  a shaving 
glass,  they  expressed  great  pleasure,  and  one  after  the  other  looked  as  far 


288 


MOUTH  OF  RIO  BENI. 


down  their  throats  as  they  could  possibly  see  by  stretching  their  mouths 
wide  open.  Their  greatest  curiosity  seemed  to  be  to  explore  the  channel 
dow^i  which  so  much  of  the  results  of  their  labor  had  passed.  When  they 
saw  their  dirty,  half- worn  teeth,  the  holes  in  their  ears,  noses,  and  under- 
lips, one  of  them  poked  her  finger  into  her  mouth  through  the  lower 
hole,  and  brutally  laughed.  They  wore  long  hair  behind,  and  dipt  it 
off  square  over  the  forehead,  which  gave  them  a wild  appearance.  The 
women  were  very  small ; their  figures,  feet,  and  hands  resembled  those 
of  young  girls.  Their  faces  proved  them  to  be  rather  old  women.  They 
appear  cheerful,  laughing  and  making  their  remarks  to  each  other  about 
us,  while  the  men  wore  a surly,  wicked  expression  of  face.  One  of  the 
young  men  became  very  much  out  of  temper  with  Pedro,  because  he 
would  not  give  all  the  fish-hooks  he  had  for  some  arrows.  The  old  man 
seemed  very  much  excited  when  he  came  alongside,  as  though  he  half 
expected  a fight.  He  was  a middle-sized  person,  and  chief  of  all  the 
Indians  in  his  tribe  who  inhabit  the  Bolivian  territory.  He  represents 
his  tribe  as  few  in  numbers  and  scattered  over  the  country.  Like  the 
women,  the  men  have  great  holes  in  their  noses  and  under-lips,  but 
nothing  stuck  in  them.  We  supposed  they  were  in  undress  on  the 
present  occasion.  The  chief  inquired  the  names  of  the  different  persons, 
and  wanted  to  know  which  was  the  “captain”  of  the  party.  The  women 
begged  for  beads,  and  assumed  the  most  winning  smiles  when  they  sawr 
anything  they  wanted.  We  invited  the  chief  to  accompany  us  to  the 
next  falls  and  assist  us  over.  He  shook  his  head,  pointed  to  his  stomach, 
and  made  signs  with  distressed  expression  of  face  that  he  would  be  sick. 
He  was  then  told  we  had  more  fish-hooks  and  knives ; if  he  brought 
yuca  and  plantains  we  would  trade  at  the  falls.  To  this  he  consented, 
but  said  his  people  and  the  Indians  below  were  not  friendly,  and  that 
the  enemy  generally  whipped  his  people. 

Three  miles  below  Lajens  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  Beni  river. 
This  stream  resembles  the  Mamore  in  color  and  width ; but  while  the 
latter  has  a depth  of  one  hundred  and  two  feet,  the  former  has  only 
fifty-four  feet  water.  Temperature  of  Mamore  water,  81°;  of  Beni,  82°. 
Near  the  mouth  of  the  Beni  there  are  islands.  The  whole  width  of 
the  river  is  about  six  hundred  yards.  The  junction  of  these  two  streams 
forms  the  head  of  the  great  Madeira,  which  is  one  mile  wide. 

In  the  month  of  October,  1846,  Seiior  Jose  Augustin  Palacios,  then 
. governor  of  the  province  of  Mojos,  explored  the  falls  in  the  Mamore 
and  Madeira  by  order  of  the  government  of  Bolivia.  We  find  the  map 
of  Senor  Palacios  a remarkably  correct  one.  He  ascended  the  Beni  for 
a short  distance,  finding  a depth  of  seventy  feet  water  to  the  foot  of  the 


OBSTRUCTIONS  TO  NAVIGATION. 


289 


falls  beyond  which  he  did  not  go,  but  returned  and  continued  his  course 
down  the  Madeira  to  the  foot  of  its  falls,  when  he  retraced  his  steps  to 
Mojos  by  the  way  he  came.  We  have  accounts  of  many  falls  on  the 
Beni  river  from  the  province  of  Yungas  down  to  the  town  of  Reyes, 
between  which  falls  the  river  is  navigated  by  the  Indians  in  wooden 
balsas.  The  Beni  has  never  been  explored  throughout  its  length,  but 
with  the  falls  above  Reyes  and  those  seen  by  Serior  Palacios  near  its 
mouth,  which  appear  to  have  prevented  him  from  ascending  this  stream 
on  his  return,  we  have  reason  for  saying  the  Beni  is  not  navigable 
for  steamboats.  The  outlet  for  the  productions  of  the  rich  province  of 
Yungas  is  to  be  sought  through  the  country  from  the  gpld  washings  of 
Tipuani  to  the  most  convenient  point  on  the  Mamore  between  Trinidad 
and  Exaltacion.  The  distance  from  the  latter  place  to  Reyes,  on  the 
Beni,  is  not  very  great.  From  the  general  conformation  of  the  bottom 
of  the  Madeira  Plate,  we  are  of  the  impression  that  the  road  would  have 
to  be  cut  high  up  towards  the  base  of  the  Andes,  so  as  to  clear  the 
annual  floods.  Tjie  Mamore,  therefore,  is  the  only  ourlet  for  the  eastern 
part  of  the  department  of  La  Paz,  as  well  as  a great  part  of  the  depart- 
ment of  Santa  Cruz.  The  ridge  of  hills  and  mountains  at  the  base  of 
which  the  Beni  flows,  stretching  from  the  falls  of  the  Madeira  to  the 
sources  of  the  river  Madre-de-Dios,  or  Purus,  separates  the  Madeira 
Plate  from  the  Amazon  basin,  and  divides  the  department  of  the  Beni 
from  the  Gran  Paititi  district  in  Brazil,  which  extends  north  to  the 
Amazon  river.  Paititi,  it  may  be  remembered,  was  the  name  given  bv 
Padre  Revello  to  our  favorite  dog,  lost  on  the  road  from  Cuzco  to  Lake 
Titicaca. 

We  are  about  to  pass  out  of  the  Madeira  Plate,  having  arrived  at  the 
the  northeast  corner  of  the  territory  of  Bolivia.  The  lands  about  the 
mouths  of  the  Beni  and  Mamore  are  now  inhabited  by  wild  Indians : 
some  parts  of  them  are  free  from  inundation.  Cacao  grows  wild  in  the 
forests.  The  head  of  the  Madeira  contains  a number  of  islands.  Here 
we  find  the  outlet  of  streams  flowing  from  the  Andes  and  from  the 
Brazils  collected  together  in  one  large  river.  Water  from  hot  springs 
and  cold  springs,  silvered  and  golden  streams  joining  with  the  cleat- 
diamond  brooks,  mingled  at  the  temperature  of  82°  Fahrenheit. 

The  Madeira  river  flows  through  the  empire  of  Brazil,  and  keeps  the 
northerly  coirt'se  pointed  out  for  it  by  the  Mamore.  The  first  falls  we 
met  were  close  to  the  junction  of  the  Mamore  and  Beni,  called  “ Madeira," 
three-quarters  of  a mile  long.  It  is  difficult  to  judge  the  difference  of 
level  between  the  upper  and  lower  surfaces  of  the  river.  As  the  falls 
are  shelving,  and  extend  a great  distance  in  length,  the  distance  we  run 
19 


290 


MADEIRA  FALLS. 


during  the  day  is  not  easily  estimated.  At  one  time  we  go  at  the  rate 
of  fifteen  miles  an  hour,  and  then  not  more  than  one  mile  in  half  a day. 
This  fall  is  not  less  than  fifteen  feet.  Large  square  blocks  of  stone  stand 
one  upon  another  in  unusual  confusion.  The  boat  was  paddled  through 
for  a quarter  of  a mile,  and  by  passing  half  the  baggage  out  over  the 
rocks,  she  was  sledded  and  floated  through  narrow  channels  close  along 
the  eastern  bank.  The  whole  bed  of  the  liver,  as  we  stand  at  the  foot 
of  the  fall  and  look  up,  is  a mixture  of  rough  rocks  laying  in  all  posi- 
tions on  the  solid  foundation  of  granite,  surrounded  by  foaming  streams 
of  muddy  water.  While  we  loaded  our  boat  again  at  the  foot  of  the 
falls,  Titto  discovered  some  Indians  approaching  us  from  the  woods. 
They  came  upon  us  suddenly,  frombe  hind  a mass  of  rocks,  with  bows 
and  arrows  in  their  hands.  Don  Antonio  had  warned  me  before  I left 
him  to  be  on  my  guard  when  the  savages  came  up  in  this  way.  He 
said  when  they  send  women  and  children  to  the  boat  in  advance,  then 
there  is  little  chance  of  a difficulty  with  the  men;  but  when  the  women 
and  children  are  fbpt  in  the  rear,  and  the  men  come  with  bows  and 
arrows  in  hand,  the  signs  are  warlike.  We  were,  therefore,  prepared. 
We,  however,  recognised  our  friends,  the  Jacares.  An  old  chief  brought 
a woman  along  loaded  with  roast  pig  and  yuca.  She  carried  a deep, 
square  willow  basket  on  her  back,  suspended  by  a strap  of  bark  cloth 
round  her  breast.  The  chief  and  his  two  men  were  dressed  in  bark 
cloth  frocks  and  straw-hats,  while  the  only  thing  on  the  woman’s  back 
was  her  basket.  One  hand  bore  an  earthen  pot,  which  she  also  offered 
for  sale.  Titto  traded  with  the  party,  and  they  gradually  became  much 
more  easy  in  their  manners  towards  us.  For  the  want  of  an  interpreter, 
I could  not  make  out  what  customs  were  observed  among  them.  These 
Indians  bear  the  name  among  Brazilians  of  great  thieves.  They,  how- 
ever, appeared  to  be  perfectly  satisfied  when  we  left  them  with  the 
reasonable  exchange.  The  passion  expressed  by  one  at  Pedro  for  not 
giving  him  all  his  fish-hooks  for  a few  arrows  rather  leads  us  to  believe 
that,  if  they  had  outnumbered  us,  they  would  have  been  troublesome. 
We  gave  them  no  opportunity  to  treat  us  unkindly,  for  we  were  exceed- 
ingly  polite,  and  so  well  armed  with  all,  that  they  very  justly  acted 
* their  part  in  a spirit  of  reciprocity.  There  is  great  difficulty  in  know- 
ing how  to  meet  the  savage.  Treat  him  as  a civilized  man,  and  his 
better  feelings  are  touched.  It  won’t  do  to  approach  him  indirectly, 
letting  him  see  that,  while  willing  to  trade,  there  is  a prudent  readiness 
for  a fight.  They  took  a polite  leave  of  us  by  shaking  hands  all  round. 
We  introduced  the  custom,  which  they  seemed  to  like,  though  the 
stiffness  of  their  elbow  joints  proved  they  did  not  understand  the 


RIBEIRAO  FALLS. 


291 


matter.  They  sauntered  up  the  rocky  bank  on  the  sand  to  where  they 
had  left  their  bark  canoe  at  the  head  of  the  falls,  and  we  went  dashing 
on  through  the  rocks  in  the  rushing  current. 

September  23. — The  river  was  seven  hundred  yards  wide,  and  one 
hundred  and  five  feet  deep.  We  passed  “Miserecordia”  rapids,  or 
swift  current,  but  not  a ripple  was  to  be  seen.  The  channel  was  clear 
of  rocks,  and  we  soon  came  to  the  “Ribeirao”  falls,  which  are  two  miles 
long.  The  baggage  was  carried  five  hundred  yards  over  ^p>ath  on  the 
east  bank.  Don  Antonio  transported  his  vessels  on  wooden  rollers  here. 
I think  he  said  he  was  nearly  one  month  getting  up  these  two  miles. 
The  men  wer<  anxious  to  see  whether  they  could  not  pass  this  fall  with 
the  boat  in  the  water.  They  launched  her  down  one  shoot  of  twenty 
feet  nearly  perpendicular  by  the  rope  painters  in  the  bow  and  stern. 

Our  boat  was  beginning  to  give  way  to  the  rough  service,  and  as  she 
leaked,  it  became  necessary  to  lighter  her  load ; then,  too,  the  men 
began  to  fag.  After  they  succeeded  in  getting  the  boat  safely  over  a 
dangerous  place,  the  boxes  had  to  be  carried  one  by  one.  The  heaviest 
b'ox  was  that  in  which  were  planted  three  specimens  of  Mojos  sugar- 
cane. I had  just  cut  my  first  crop,  and  found  the  plants  were  doing 
well,  when  it  became  necessary  to  relieve  our  little  boat,  and  we  were 
unwillingly  obliged  to  leave  behind  what  might  have  proved  of  import- 
ance to  a Mississippi  sugar-planter.  Our  baggage  was  taken  out  and 
restowed  a number  of  times.  Once  the  boat  was  on  top  of  a rock, 
at  another  half  under  foam.  The  sun  was  scorching  hot,  and  we  had 
the  full  benefit  of  it.  When  the  water  is  thrown  on  the  bare  rocks,  it 
hisses  as  if  poured  upon  hot  iron. 

The  sides  of  the  pot-holes  are  ridged  like  the  inside  of  a female  screw; 
some  of  them  are  nine  feet  deep.  The  water  in  them  is  quite  hot ; one 
of  the  negroes  seemed  to  be  fond  of  lowering  himself  into  the  pots  of 
hot  water  ; his  face  had  rather  a distressed  expression,  and  while  stand- 
ing with  his  head  above  the  edge  of  the  pot,  he  looks  as  though  under- 
going a hot- water  cure.  The  river  appears  to  have  worn  away  the  rocks 
less  than  above.  It  flows  over  a solid  mass,  in  which  there  are  many 
gutters  cut,  from  four  to  six  feet  deep,  of  the  same  width.  Our  canoe 
safely  passed  through  one  of  these  by  the  ropes,  as  the  crew  walked 
along  the  level  rock.  There  were  numbers  of  these  gutters  cut  parallel 
to  each  other.  The  rock  was  worn  as  smooth  as  glass.  After  descend- 
ing some  distance  in  the  middle,  we  found  the  channels  so  large  and 
dangerous,  that  we  must  gain  the  east  side  of  the  river ; the  only  escape 
for  us,  besides  retracing  our  steps,  was  to  cross  a wide  channel  with  a 
furious  cataract  above,  and  another  close  below.  We  hugged  the  foot 


292 


PERIQUITOS ARARAS  RAPIDS. 


of  the  upper  as  close  as  possible,  and  the  men  pulled  with  such  force 
that  one  of  the  paddles  broke  when  we  reached  half  the  way.  With 
the  remaining  three,  we  made  a hairbreadth  escape  ; the  boat  could  not 
have  lived  an  instant  had  we  been  carried  over  the  lower  fall.  The 
rollers  formed  by  the  swiftness  of  the  current  are  five  feet  high ; large 
logs  are  carried  down  so  fast  they  plough  straight  through  the  waves, 
and  are  out  of  sight  in  an  instant.  The  men  came  near  upsetting  the 
boat  in  a daM^rous  pass.  They  seem  to  be  giving  out  through  pure  ex- 
haustion. Tray  have  very  little  to  eat ; farinha  adds  not  much  to  their 
strength,  and  jerked  beef  spoils.  No  fish  are  to  be  found,  nor  birds  ; a 
monkey  would  be  a treat.  Night  overtook  us  half  way  down  the  falls, 
and  we  came  to,  on  a barren  rock,  where  there  were  two  small  sticks  of 
wood,  of  which  we  made  a fire,  boiled  water,  and  gave  the  men  coffee.  I 
observed  a southern  star,  and  turning  for  another  in  the  north,  was  glad  to 
find  it  had  passed  the  meridian,  as  sleep  was  much  more  necessary  than 
latitude.  On  the  west  side  of  the  falls  stood  three  small  hills ; on  the 
east  side  a large  white-trunked  forest  tree.  This  was  the  largest  tree  we 
had  yet  seen,  though  not  quite  equal  to  a North  American  huge  oak.  • 

September  24,  1852. — At  daylight  we  crawled  on;  it  would  be  a 
mistake  to  grace  it  with  the  name  of  travelling.  The  country  is  thickly 
wooded  with  Brazil  nuts  and  cacao  trees  interspersed.  Four  miles  further 
down  we  came  to  “Periquitos”  rapids,  which  takes  its  name  from  num- 
bers of  parrots  inhabiting  the  woods.  These  parrots  are  green,  scarlet, 
and  yellow,  with  long  tails ; they  fly  slowly  overhead  in  pairs,  crying  an 
alarm  as  we  are  seen  approaching.  We  paddled  through  these  few  rocks 
without  the  least  difficulty.  Banks  of  the  river  thirty  feet  high ; sound- 
ings fifty-four  feet.  At  midday  a thunder  gust  with  rain  came  from  the 
north.  As  we  are  passing  out  of  the  Madeira  Plate,  we  find  the  climate 
changing ; northerly  winds  bring  rain  here,  while  southerly  winds  bring 
them  farther  south.  At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  86°;  water,  83°. 

“ Araras  ” rapids  were  passed  with  much  toil,  easing  the  boat  down  by 
ropes  made  of  bark,  which  are  best  for  such  work  as  this;  the  water  has 
little  effect  upon  them.  The  fall  is  small,  and  the  channel  clear.  While 
the  men  gathered  Brazil  nuts  from  the  woods,  we  bottled  a young  turtle, 
taken  from  among  eggs  found  in  the  sand.  Amphibia  are  poorly  re- 
presented ; we  see  no  alligators,  snakes,  or  frogs.  The  water  has 
become  much  more  clear ; it  has  a milky  appearance.  The  banks  slope 
down  regularly;  being  covered  with  a light-green  coat  of  grass,  they  have 
the  appearance  of  cultivation. 

September  25. — At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  84°;  water,  82°;  light  north 
wind.  At  2 p.  m.,  thunder  to  the  northeast.  On  the  east  bank  were 


DESCENDING  RIBEIRAO  FALLS,  MADEIRA  RIVER  Brazil 


PEDRENEIRA  FALLS. 


293 


cliffs  of  red  clay  fifty  feet  high,  breaking  down  perpendicularly.  We 
passed  the  mouth  of  Abuna  river,  which  is  fifty  yards  wide,  and  flows  in 
from  the  southwest.  At  3 30  p.  m.,  thermometer,  86°;  water,  82°.  In 
the  evening  lightning  to  the  southwest.  We  came  to  a number  of  rocky 
islands  in  the  river,  and  took  up  our  quarters  on  one  of  them  for  the 
night.  We  slept  under  blankets ; there  is  a heavy  dew,  and  the  nights  are 
quite  cool.  Richards  was  aroused  by  a severe  pain  in  his  ear ; he  was  suf- 
ering  all  night  long.  The  men  told  me  it  was  common  a»ong  the  sol- 
diers at  the  fort,  caused  by  exposing  the  ear  to  night -air  otto  dew.  The 
only  remedy  reported  was  “ woman’s  milk,”  which  was  not  at  hand. 

September  26. — For  the  eighteen  miles  between  the  “Arares  ” rapids 
and  “Pedreneira”  falls,  we  found  a current  of  only  one  and  a half  mile 
per  hour,  with  a depth  of  sixty  feet  water.  We  have  observed  between 
all  the  falls  passed,  that  the  current  becomes  slow,  and  as  there  is  very 
little  damming  up  of  the  water  by  the  falls,  that  the  general  inclination 
could  not  be  great.  We  also  found  the  land  gradually  getting  higher, 
as  though  the  river  was  flowing  through  a country  which  sloped  against 
the  current.  We  find  at  the  “Pedreneira”  falls  the  strata  perpendicular ; 
the  river  does  not  flow  over  a flat  mass  of  rock  as  before,  but  cuts  its 
way  through  a vertically  grained  rock ; so  fair  and  square  has  the  river 
worn  its  passage,  that  the  gap  resembles  a breach  in  a stone  dam.  The 
river  turns  from  its  northern  course  at  a right  angle,  and  flows  east,  in- 
clining a little  south,  as  though  it  wanted  to  turn  back  and  flow  into 
the  Madeira  Plate  again.  We  suppose  this  fall  to  be  situated  on  the  top  of 
that  ridge  of  hills  and  mountains  extending  across  South  America  from 
the  Andes  to  Brazil.  We  are  now  on  the  chain  which  fastens  Brazil  to 
the  base  of  the  great  mountains,  and  the  river  is  sawing  across  and  cutting 
it  gradually  asunder.  Part  of  our  baggage  was  carried  over,  and  our 
boat  towed  along  the  east  bank  with  less  difficulty  than  we  expected  ; 
we  found  a rapid  current  below. 

On  the  south  bank  of  the  river  we  saw  two  bark  canoes ; the  negroes 
gave  us  music  on  their  cow’s  horns,  and  two  red  women  appeared  on 
the  bank  at  a path  in  the  thicket;  they  belonged  to  the  “Caripuna” 
tribe.  We  pointed  down  the  river,  and  called  for  “ Capitan  Tupe 
they  ran  away,  and  we  continued  to  the  Paredao  falls.  A whale  boat 
might  pass  through  the  main  channel  with  ease,  but  our  boat  was  too 
6mall  to  attempt  it.  The  baggage  was  landed  on  a sand-beach  near 
the  rocks,  which  were  elevated  forty  feet  above  the  water  level.  In  the 
rainy  season  the  floods  cover  them  all  except  ten  feet.  I climbed  up 
to  the  top  for  a view  of  the  country,  and  to  seek  a passage  for  the  boat. 
The  men  had  a short  distance  to  paddle,  and  then  tow  her  through  a nar- 


294 


PAREDAO  FALLS. 


row  channel  by  the  ropes.  The  landing-place  was  in  the  rapid  current; 
they  missed  it,  and  the  boat  ran  away  with  them  through  the  rocks — 
they  were  carried  at  a frightful  rate ; Titto  shouting  to  the  negroes  at  the 
top  of  his  voice  to  pull  for  their  lives,  so  that  he  might  steer  them  safely, 
which  he  fortunately  did.  They  were  all  so  much  frightened  that  it 
brought  them  to  their  working  powers.  The  sight  was  an  interesting 
one  for  me,  as  the  smallest  rock  in  their  way  would  have  dashed  the 
boat  to  pi^^.  As  I turned  to  go  down  I found  myself  surrounded  by 
a party  of^r'age  women  and  children,  who  had  come  up  behind  me. 
There  were  eight  women,  ten  children,  and  two  unarmed  men,  all,  from 
external  appearances,  savages  of  the  purest  water.  On  taking  out  my 
handkerchief,  the  women  and  children  all  laughed ! One  of  the  men 
stepped  before  me,  and  putting  his  hand  into  my  pocket,  took  all 
the  fish-hooks  out,  and  appropriated  them  to  his  own  use,  by  handing 
them  to  a homely  woman  who  bore  a sucking  baby,  and  then  coolly 
inquired  whether  I had  a knife  to  give  him.  He  was  a short,  thick- 
framed man,  quite  fat  and  hearty  ; the  women  were  all  ugly  ; the  boys 
were  the  most  cheerful,  manly-looking  Indians  we  ever  met  with.  At 
my  suggestion,  they  walked  to  the  boat  with  me.  Their  chief1  “ Capitan 
Tupe,”  as  they  call  him,  was  absent  on  a hunting  excursion.  Their  huts 
were  some  distance  from  the  falls,  so  that  we  missed  seeing  their  houses. 
They  were  quite  friendly  with  us.  Some  of  the  men  who  came  after- 
wards, left  their  bows  and  arrows  behind  the  rocks,  and  walked  up  un- 
armed. The  women  carried  their  babies  under  the  arm,  seated  in  bark 
cloth  straps,  slung  over  the  opposite  shoulder.  The  infants  appeared 
terribly  frightened  at  the  sight  of  a white  man ; one  of  them  screamed 
out  when  Pedro  milked  the  mother  into  a tin  pot,  for  the  benefit  of 
Richards’  ear,  which  still  troubled  him.  The  woman  evidently  under- 
stood what  was  wanted  with  it,  and  stood  still  for  Pedro  to  milk  her  as 
much  as  he  chose.  The  boys  are  remarkable  for  large  bellies,  as  the 
sketch  of  “ Matua”  and  his  brother  “Manu”  will  show.  The  older  ones 
express  a willingness  to  go  away  from  their  mothers ; Manu  was  asked, 
by  signs,  if  he  woidd  go  with  me ; he  shook  his  head,  no ; when  he 
was  made  to  understand  that  he  could  get  a pair  of  trousers  and  some- 
thing to  eat,  he  then  nodded  his  head,  yes.  Pedro  tells  me  they  swell 
themselves  up  by  eating  earth,  which  Indian  children  all  do.  One  of 
the  Caripunas  got  into  the  boat  and  examined  the  baggage ; he  soon 
found  a knife,  which  he  took,  and  came  out  with  it  in  his  hand,  before 
everybody.  It  belonged  to  one  of  the  negroes,  who  took  it  from  the 
Indian.  The  savage  appeared  disappointed;  he  was  then  told  if  he 
would  bring  yuca  or  other  provisions  for  the  men,  he  should  have  a knife. 


MATUA  AND  HIS  BROTHER  MANU  ..  CARIPUNA  BOYS  AND  THEIR  BARK  CA'NO-E 


CARIPUNA  SAVAGES. 


295 


They  all  declared  they  had  nothing  to  eat  in  their  houses.  We  made 
them  a little  present,  and  bought  a bow  with  arrows  from  one  of  the 
boys.  They  were  particularly  desirous  of  getting  fish-hooks  and  knives. 

Matua  is  in  the  full  dress  of  the  men,  who  wear  beads  of  hard  wood 
round  their  necks,  with  bands  bound  tight  round  the  arms  above  the 
elbow  and  round  the  ankles.  The  foreskin  is  tied  up  to  a band  of  cot- 
ton twine,  which  is  wound  tight  round  the  hips  and  under  part  of  the 
belly.  All  wear  their  hair  long,  and  cut  square  off  in  front.  In  large 
holes  in  their  ears,  they  carry  pieces  of  bone,  or  a stick  of  wood. 
Through  the  whole  in  the  nose  a quill  is  pushed,  the  cavity  being  filled 
up  with  different  colored  feathers,  gives  them  a moustached  appearance. 
These  people  are  nearly  all  of  the  same  height  and  figure,  but  differ  very 
much  in  the  features  of  th.e  face.  Some  have  thick  lips,  flat  noses,  and 
round  faces;  others  are  just  the  reverse.  The  former  very  ugly,  and  a 
few  of  the  latter  tolerably  good  looking.  The  women  are  larger  than 
those  we  saw  near  the  mouth  of  the  Beni.  There  are  not  many  of 
them  ; they  live  about  in  small  bands,  and  said  they  found  few  fish  in 
the  river.  They  promised  to  plant  yuca  and  corn,  so  that  the  crew 
might  have  something  to  eat  on  their  return  to  the  fort.  As  we  em- 
barked, they  said  “ shutna ,”  which  Pedro  informed  us  meant  “ good 
man but  probably  referred  to  more  presents. 

The  lands  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  are  inhabited  by  the  Can- 
punas.  It  is  flat,  and  a beautiful  spot  for  cultivation.  Small  mountains 
and  hills  are  in  sight  on  the  north  side,  as  we  descend  by  a rapid  cur- 
rent. The  river  seems  to  be  creeping  along  on  a ridge,  seeking  an  out- 
let to  the  north.  At  3 30  p.  m.,  thermometer,  90° ; water,  83°  ; light 
northerly  airs ; thunder  to  the  north,  and  a rainbow  to  the  northeast. 

September  27. — At  “Trez  Irmaos”  rapids  we  found  no  difficulty.  A 
large  island  in  the  middle  of  the  river  chokes  it,  and  the  water  rapidly 
flows  through  two  channels.  As  we  dashed  by,  the  men  blew  their 
horns  for  “ Capitan  Macini,”  another  Caripuna  chief,  who  lives  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  with  a small  band  of  his  tribe.  Pedro  speaks 
of  “ Capitan”  in  complimentary  terms.  He  is  repre  ented  as  being  ex- 
ceedingly obliging ; we  wanted  his  services  as  pilot,  but  missed  him. 
After  passing  “ Trez  Irmao^’  rapids,  the  river  turns  north.  A rapid 
current  carries  us  through  a chain  of  hills  on  each  side,  tending  east 
and  west.  The  foliage  is  unusually  green  and  thick ; forest  trees  have 
been  broken  by  the  action  of  violent  winds.  We  scarcely  are  fairly 
launched  out  of  the  Madeira  Plate  into  the  Amazon  basin,  before  we 
meet,  at  midday,  a storm  of  wind  and  rain  from  the  northeast,  accom- 
panied wffh  thunder.  We  find  the  sea-way  in  mid-channel  much  too 


296 


GIRAU  FALLS. 


high  for  our  little  boat,  and  bring  to.  While  the  storm  passes,  the 
wind  carries  a cloud  of  dry  sand  before  it.  At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer, 
85° ; water,  84°.  We  are  now  being  avalanched  down  an  inclined 
plane.  Arriving  at  the  head  of  “ Girau”  falls,  we  find  the  true  falls  of 
the  Madeira.  They  are  short,  but  the  rush  of  waters  through  a con- 
fined space,  between  immense  masses  of  rock,  baffles  large  sized  vessels, 
and  prevents  their  passing  either  up  or  down  the  river.  Don  Antonio 
transported  his  boats  over  the  land  here. 

Richards  was  suffering  very  much  from  his  ear ; his  under  eye-lid 
hung  down,  the  corner  of  his  mouth  became  drawn  up  on  one  side, 
while  he  seemed  to  lose  control  of  the  muscles  of  his  face  ; the  pain  was 
beyond  endurance.  All  the  men  began  to  feel  the  effects  of  the  change 
of  climate ; the  nights  cold,  and  midday  spn  very  hot.  They  com- 
plained of  headaches  and  pains  in  their  backs ; the  strongest  of  them 
■were  jaded.  Before  they  went  to  sleep,  I dosed  the  party  with  raw 
brandy  all  round,  which  cheered  them  up.  They  have  been  much  more 
respectful  lately,  and  work  with  a will. 

September  28. — The  men  are  all  in  better  health  this  morning.  They 
carried  the  baggage  through  the  woods  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
and  with  the  greatest  difficulty  got  the  canoe  through  the  rocks.  The 
river  has  been  turned  to  the  eastward  by  hills  on  the  north  side.  The 
fall  cannot  be  estimated  with  any  degree  of  certainty ; the  descent  is 
more  precipitous,  and  the  roaring  of  the  foaming  waters  much  greater 
than  any  we  before  met.  We  were  from  daylight  until  3 p.  m.,  making 
the  passage  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  side,  before  we  got  breakfast, 
which  we  took  under  the  shade  of  trees,  where  the  thermometer  stood 
at  99°;  wind  northeast. 

Pedro  shot  a few  fish  with  his  arrows,  and  a negro  caught  one  with  a 
line.  As  the  vegetable  kingdom  appears  fresh  and  vigorous,  under  the 
strong  breezes  filled  with  moisture  from  the  North  Atlantic,  so  again 
do  we  find  animal  life  in  abundance.  The  trade-winds  from  the  ocean 
cross  the  land  from  Cayenne,  in  French  Guiana,  and  strike  this  side  of 
the  Amazon  basin.  The  clouds  roll  up,  and  the  waters  are  wrung  out 
in  drops  of  rain. 

The  Paititi  district  of  country  which  we  have  on  our  west,  and  the 
Tapajos  district  on  the  east,  are  watered  by  the  northeast  trade-winds. 
They  get  their  moisture  from  the  north  Atlantic,  and  here  we  find  on 
the  side  of  these  hills  the  boisterous  region  again,  and  the  trees  are  torn 
up  by  the  roots.  These  acts  of  the  northeast  trade-winds  are  written 
upon  this  slope  of  the  Amazon  basin  exactly  as  we  met  the  southeast 
trade-winds  as  they  struck  the  Andes  on  their  way  from  Rio  Janeiro. 


CALDEIEAO  RAPIDS. 


297 


The  Caripuna  Indians  we  have  just  left  told  us  they  came  down  the 
Madeira  for  fish.  They  find  little  game  and  no  fish,  even  in  these 
mighty  waters,  above  the  boisterous  region.  The  two  Yuracares  Indians 
we  met  on  the  side  of  the  Andes  said  they  would  catch  us  fish  when 
we  got  further  down  the  rapid  Paracti.  Fish  are  just  as  particular  in 
their  choice  of  waters  and  climate  as  those  animals  which  inhabit  the 
dry  land. 

The  foam  that  is  produced  by  the  water  dashing  over  the  rocks  floats 
aloft  in  the  shape  of  mist ; and  in  the  calm,  clear,  starlight  nights,  the 
gentle  northeast  breezes  cast  a thin  gauze-like  veil  around  us  and  affects 
the  glasses  of  our  instruments.  All  observations  of  the  stars  seem  to 
be  forbidden.  Early  in  the  morning,  as  the  sun’s  rays  strike  upon  the 
river,  they  gradually  absorb  the  mist,  and  first  that  portion  which  has 
been  scattered  by  the  night  winds,  and  looking  just  then,  up  or  down 
the  river  from  an  eminence,  the  traveller  may  see  the  position  of  each 
cataract,  like  the  smoke  of  a line  of  steamers.  The  powerful  sun 
soon  evaporates  this  mist,  which  speedily  disappears  as  it  rises.  One  of 
the  crew  caught  a small  electrical  eel,  which  opened  its  galvanic  battery 
and  shocked  the  whole  party.  A rapid  current,  and  no  bottom  at 
twenty- five  fathoms  water. 

September  29. — We  get  our  baggage  stowed  and  all  on  board  ready 
for  a long  pull,  but  soon  fetch  up  among  the  rocks  again.  “Caldeirao 
do  Inferno”  rapids  are  caused  by  three  rocky  and  somewhat  wooded 
islands  in  the  river.  We  pulled  part  of  the  way  through  on  the  west 
side  without  discharging  baggage ; the  boat  was  gently  eased  down  by 
the  ropes.  At  the  foot  of  these  falls,  which  could  not  be  passed  by  a 
steamboat,  we  discovered  a bark  canoe,  manned  with  savages,  paddling 
with  all  their  might  away  from  us ; they  seemed  to  be  very  much 
alarmed,  and  were  soon  out  of  s^ht.  As  we  came  to  a place  rather 
too  rapid  for  safety  among  rocks,  the  men  go^  out  and  towed  us  along 
the  north  bank ; while  doing  so,  three  savage  men,  three  women,  three 
children,  and  five  most  miserably  thin  skeleton  dogs,  came  to  see  us. 
The  men  laid  their  bows  and  arrows  behind  the  rocks,  and  approached 
us  without  fear,  but  the  slim  dogs  were  disposed  to  show  fight.  Thjy 
were  weak  and  slab-sided  animals  ; quite  unsuccessful  in  their  endeav- 
ors to  raise  a bark  at  us,  but  coughed  out  a sickly  sort  of  noise,  as  they 
hung  around  their  masters’  legs.  One  had  his  ears  boxed  by  a tiger, 
which  gave  him  a perpetual  stiff  neck.  They  all  looked  as  though  they 
had  been  vainly  struggling  with  the  beasts  of  the  forest.  An  unsightly 
old  woman  brought  us  a fried  fish  fresh  from  the  river.  One  of  the  men 
had  bilious  fever,  but  was  attended  by  a pretty  girl,  who  took  her  paddle 


300 


TEOTONI  FALLS. 


where  they  seated  themselves  round.  Some  presents  were  made  to 
them  in  exchange  for  the  offer  of  several  chickens  and  a large  partridge. 
To  the  little  girls  we  gave  earrings,  to  supply  the  place  of  fish  or  beast- 
bones;  to  the  boys  fish-hooks;  and  to  the  men  knives.  The  elderly 
women  particularly  fancied  looking-glasses  for  themselves,  and  glass 
beads  for  their  babies.  One  very  unattractive  woman  requested  me  to 
make  her  an  additional  present  of  a looking-glass.  A knife  had  been 
offered,  which  she  particularly  requested.  She  received  the  refusal  with 
such  a savage  side-glance,  that  the  damage  was  repaired  at  once,  and 
the  men  ordered  into  the  boat.  Her  sister  used  paint.  Her  forehead 
was  besmeared  with  a red  color,  and  her  lips  blackened.  We  presented 
her  with  a large  looking-glass,  which  she  used  for  examining  as  far 
down  her  throat  as  possible.  Pedro  had  a slight  difficulty  with  one  of 
the  savages,  who  he  said  had  stolen  his  knife  from  the  boat.  I replaced 
it,  and  we  went  on  without  being  disturbed,  though,  as  we  afterwards 
learnt,  these  fellows  not  long  since  robbed  two  Brazilians  on  the  river, 
who  escaped  down  stream  in  one  of  the  bark  canoes  of  the  savages, 
leaving  their  own  boat  behind.  At  3 p.  m , thermometer,  91°;  water, 
85° ; river  one  mile  wic^e,  interspersed  with  islands  and  rocks,  twenty-five 
fathoms  depth.  On  the  east  side  a small  stream  of  clear  water  flows  in . 
The  water  of  these  small  side-streams  are  often  6°  Fahrenheit  cooler 
than  the  main  river  water.  We  bottle  it,  as  the  river  water  .is  un- 
pleasantly warm  for  drinking.  s A man  fully  comprehends  the  blessing 
of  ice  by  gliding  down  this  river.  The  current  is  fast  one  hour  and 
slow  the  next  few  minutes.  The  men  pull  when  they  feel  like  it,  and 
rest  when  they  wish.  We  are  moving  along,  more  or  less,  all  the  time 
during  the  day.  The  river  is  not  very  winding. 

September  30. — About  twenty-five  miles  on  a northeasterly  course 
brought  us  to  “ Doz  Morrinhos  ” rapids.  The  difference  of  level  here  is 
slight,  though  the  passes  are  difficult.  A part  of  the  baggage  was 
handed  over  the  rocks,  which  proved  a prudent  plan,  as  the  boat  was 
nearly  swamped.  The  country  is  quite  uneven  and  thickly  wooded. 
At  midday  we  had  a light  shower  of  rain,  accompanied  by  thunder, 
without  wind.  At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  87°;  water,  85°;  with  a strong 
southwest  wind.  At  the  foot  of  these  falls  we  sounded  with  five  hundred 
and  ten  feet,  and  no  bottom. 

At  a late  hour  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  the  head  of  ‘‘  Teotoni  ” 
falls,  the  most  terrific  of  them  all.  Here  I was  attacked  with  a severe 
bilious  fever,  which  brought  me  at  once  on  my  back.  The  pain  in  my 
left  breast  was  somewhat  like  that  described  by  tnose  who  have  suffered 
with  the  “Chagres  fever.”  We  were  all  worn  out,  thin,  and  haggard. 


SAN  ANTONIO  PALLS. 


301 


I had  been  kept  going  by  excitement,  as  the  men  were  careless,  brutal 
negroes,  and  Richards  suffering  still  with  the  pain  in  his  ear. 

October  1. — This  fall  is  over  fifteen  feet,  ten  of  which  is  at  an  angle 
of  45  degrees.  The  roaring  made  at  intervals  by  the  rushing  of  the 
waters  over  and  through  the  rocks,  sounds  like  distant  thunder.  Our 
little  canoe  is  driven  for  safety  out  of  the  water  to  the  land.  The  bag- 
gage was  carried  by  a path  on  the  south  side  to  the  foot  of  the  falls. 
Richards  went  along  with  the  first  load,  and  remained  below  looking 
out,  while  I rested  to  see  every  thing  sent  over.  The  men  idled  their 
time  between  us,  until  we  were  caught  in  a heavy  rain  and  thunder 
storm  from  northeast.  The  boat  was  put  upon  rollers  and  transported 
four  hundred  yards  over  a hill,  and  launched  into  the  river  below.  We 
were  from  daylight  until  dark  at  the  work.  I should  not  complain, 
however,  because  men  never  had  a more  harassing  time  than  these  have 
had.  If  alone,  they  would  not  have  come  half  the  distance  in  the  same 
length  of  time.  They  have  pushed  on  for  me,  when  I least  expected 
they  would  keep  on. 

We  noticed  that  at  nearly  all  the  falls  in  the  Madeira  the  river  turns 
as  it  cuts  its  way  through  the  rocks,  forming  nearly  a semi-circle  towards 
the  eastwaid;  after  gaining  the  base  of  the  declivity,  the  stream  returns 
again  to  its  original  course.  Here  the  path  over  the  land  describes  a 
diameter.  The  storm  continued  all  night  in  squalls.  The  negroes  took 
off  tneir  clothes  and  laid  down  upon  the  bare  rocks  under  a heavy  rain, 
with  cold  wind,  where  they  actually  slept,  while  those  of  the  crew, 
with  Indian  blood,  built  a fire  and  slept  on  the  sand  close  by  it  in  their 
clothes.  The  baggage  was  left  on  the  sand  bank  until  morning  covered 
with  raw  hides.  We  were  well  drenched,  certainly  a poor  iemedy  for 
bilious  fever,  particularly  when  followed  by  the  heat  of  a tropical  sun. 

October  2. — Five  miles  below  are  “San  Antonio”  falls,  which  we  passed 
by  tow  lines  without  disembarking  our  baggage.  The  difference  of  level 
is  very  small ; the  bed  of  the  river  much  choked  with  rocks.  The  stream 
is  divided  into  a great  number  of  rapid  and  narrow  channels.  We  took 
breakfast  on  the  west  side,  at  the  foot  of  these  falls,  with  feelings  of 
gratitude  we  had  safely  passed  *the  perils  of  seventeen  cataracts.  Those 
parts  of  the  rivers  Madeira  and  Mamore,  between  the  foot  of  “San  An- 
tonio” and  the  head  of  “ Guajara-merim”  falls,  are  not  navigable  for 
any  class  of  vessels  whatever  ; nor  can  a road  be  travelled  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  on  either  bank,  to  follow  the  course  of  the  river,  for  the  land 
bordering  on  the  stream  is  semi-annually  flooded.  By  referring  to  the 
map  it  will  be  seen,  we  travelled  from  Guajara-merim,  on  the  Mamore, 
in  a due  north  course,  to  the  Pedreneira  falls,  on  the  Madeira.  By  the 


302 


PHYSICAL  COMPARISON  OF  RACES. 


windings  of  the  river,  we  estimate  the  distance  not  less  than  one  hun- 
dred miles.  From  the  Pedreneira  falls  to  the  foot  of  San  Antonio, 
our  direction  was  about  east-northeast,  a distance  by  the  river  of  one 
hundred  and  forty  miles,  which  makes  the  space  not  navigable  two 
hundred  and  forty  miles.  A road  cut  straight  through  the  territory  of 
Brazil,  from  San  Antonio  falls,  in  a southwest  direction,  to  the  navigable 
point  on  the  Mamore,  would  not  exceed  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles. 
This  road  would  pass  among  the  hills,  seen,  from  time  to  time,  to  the 
eastward,  where  the  lands,  in  all  probability,  are  not  overflowed.  On  a 
common  mule  road,  such  as  we  find  in  Bolivia,  a cargo  could  be  trans- 
ported in  about  seven  days  from  one  point  to  the  other.  Don  Antonio 
Cordoza  was  five  months  struggling  against  these  numerous  rapids  and 
rocks  to  make  the  same  distance,  with  his  cargo  in  small  boats.  We 
have  been  twelve  days  descending  the  falls,  which  is  considered  by 
Brazilian  navigators  fast  travelling.  The  wild  woods  that  cover  the 
lands  are  unknown  to  the  white  man.  Topographically  considered,  the 
lands  on  the  east  side  of  the  Madeira  are  the  most  valuable. 

Our  experience  with  a black  crew  gives  reason  to  believe  the  climate 
is  more  congenial  to  them  than  the  white  or  red  races.  Among  the 
half-civilized  and  savage  aborigines,  we  notice  very  few  men  live  to  an 
old  age ; they  generally  pass  away  early  ; tribes  are  composed  usually 
of  men  under  forty  years.  The  moment  we  landed  at  Principe,  there 
appeared  before  us  a number  of  active,  gray- headed  old  negro  women 
and  men,  grinning  and  bowing,  with  as  much  life  in  their  expression  of 
face  and  activity  of  manner  as  the  youngest.  Long  after  the  savage 
has  become  hamac-ridden  with  age,  the  negro,  born  before  him,  is  found 
actively  employed.  The  physical  strength  of  the  negro  is  not  equalled 
by  the  red  man  here.  The  Indian  enjoys  the  shade  of  the  forest  trees, 
while  our  negroes  rejoice  in  the  heat  of  the  sun. 

The  India  rubber  is  found  in  these  woods,  with  quantities  of  Brazil  nuts 
and  cacao  trees.  The  whole  forest  is  as  constantly  green  as  the  snows 
on  the  peaks  of  the  Andes  are  everlastingly  white,  although  the  leaves 
fall  and  the  snow7  melts  away.  In  the  month  of  April,  or  thereabouts, 
the  sap  which  flows  through  the  veins  of  these  forest  trees,  begins  to 
fall,  not  suddenly,  as  the  sap  of  the  sugar-maple  in  our  northern  States, 
but  gradually  and  slowdy,  as  the  live-oak,  magnolia,  or  other  evergreens 
of  Florida.  The  sap  descends  from  the  topmost  branches  first ; the 
leaves  begin  to  sicken  for  want  of  nourishment ; they  wilt,  and  the  first 
that  falls  to  'the  ground  is  from  the  end  of  the  branch  which  first  lost 
its  sustenance.  The  tide  of  sap  ebbs  a shorter  time  than  is  usual  in  a 
climate  where  half  the  year  is  wintry.  The  flood  tide  of  sap  goes  up 


TAMANDUA  ISLAND. 


303 


in  time  to  send  out  new  leaves  at  the  top  of  the  tree  before  the  last  on 
the  lower  limbs  have  fallen.  During  this  rise  and  fall  of  the  sap  in  the 
trees  tropical  forests  shed  their  leaves.  The  work  is  performed  in  such 
a secret  way,  that  it  would  not  he  observed,  did  we  not  find  the 
ground  covered  with  dead  leaves,  while  the  trees  are  perfectly  green. 
On  the  Andes  the  llama,  grazing  near  the  snow  line,  had  its  back  thickly 
clothed  with  wool,  while  the  ground  was  strewed  with  its  last  year’s  crop. 
When  the  sun  stands  vertically  over  the  llama,  it  sheds  its  wool ; when 
the  sun  passes  far  off  on  its  northern  tour,  the  leaves  fall  from  the  forests 
at  the  base  of  those  great  mountains.  During  the  season  of  the  year 
when  the  sap  is  in  upward  motion,  the  “rubber”  man  taps  the  trees 
and  gathers  the  milk,  converting  it  into  shoes  by  smearing  it  over  a 
last,  and  poking  it  into  the  smoke  of  a small  fire  near  by  him.  The  guava 
and  banana  fall  to  the  ground  to  fatten  the  wild  pecary ; the  oriole 
nestles  in  the  tree-tops,  and  feeds  its  young  in  the  stocking-like  nest 
which  hangs  from  the  tip  ends  of  the  limbs.  Toucans  appear  aston- 
ished at  the  songs  of  our  negroes  as  we  paddle  down,  leaving  the  cata- 
racts behind  us. 

At  3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  86°;  water,  84° ; we  bottled  drinking  water 
from  a small  stream  on  the  west  side,  having  a temperature  of  76°; 
width  of  the  river  six  hundred  yards;  sounded  with  two  hundred  and 
ten  feet  of  line  without  finding  bottom  ; current  two  miles  per  hour. 
The  channel  is  perfectly  clear  of  all  obstructions;  few  logs  are  enabled 
to  pass  safely  through  all  the  falls  in  the  dry  season,  but  when  the  river 
rises  they  come  down  at  a terrible  rate,  and  in  great  numbers,  though 
the  channel  of  the  Madeira  is  seldom  as  much  obstructed  by  drift-wood 
as  the  Mississippi. 

In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Tamandua  island ; one  hundred  Brazil- 
ians were  engaged  gathering  turtle-eggs,  of  which  they  manufactured 
oil.  These  men  came  up  from  the  Amazon  ; the  sight  of  them  glad- 
dened our  spirits;  we  had  passed  the  savage  race,  and  reached  civilized 
man,  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  wilderness ; we  were  out  of  the  woods, 
though  the  trees  are  larger  here  than  on  the  southern  side  of  the  ridge 
of  hills  through  which  the  Madeira  flows.  The  forests  here  resemble 
those  on  the  side  and  base  of  the  Andes.  The  negroes  supped  on  turtle- 
eggs,  while  they  drew  comparisons  between  the  people  of  the  Amazon 
and  those  of  “ their  country,”  as  they  called  Cuyaba,  on  the  other  great 
South  American  river.  One  of  the  oil  merchants  kindly  invited  us  to 
take  up  our  quarters  in  his  hut,  but  the  fever  kept  me  in  bed  in  the 
canoe,  with  pains  that  forbade  sleep  at  night.  lie  sent  us  two  turtles, 
measuring  nearly  three  feet  long,  with  one  foot  and  a-  half  of  thickness. 
One  of  them  was  a load  for  a man. 


304 


TURTLE-EGGS — OIL-HUNTERS. 


The  turtle  deposits  its  eggs  in  the  sand  on  these  river  islands  at  the 
beginning  of  the  dry  season,  commencing  in  July  and  August.  The 
heat  of  the  sun  hatches  the  young ; they  dig  holes  four  feet  deep,  by 
throwing  the  sand  on  each  side  with  the  hind-flippers.  The  motion  is 
quick  and  sudden,  casting  the  sand  a distance  of  six  and  eight  feet  from 
them.  After  reaching  the  depth  required,  the  female  drops  eggs  in  the 
hole  and  covers  up  the  top  with  sand  drawn  in  by  her  fore-flippers. 
There  is  an  equal  distribution  of  labor ; the  hind  legs  dig  the  hole,  and 
the  fore  ones  fill  it  up.  The  hole  is  gradually  filled  with  from  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  to  two  hundred  eggs.  There  is  some  difference  of  time 
between  the  first  deposit  and  the  last ; yet,  so  nearly  does  the  turtle  cal- 
culate the  depth  of  sand,  and  power  of  the  sun,  that  all  the  eggs  are 
said  to  hatch  exactly  at  the  same  time.  The  young  turtle  rises  four 
feet  from  the  bottom  of  its  birth  place,  to  meet  his  little  brother  at  the 
surface.  They  trot  to  the  river’s  edge  side  by  side,  wher.e  they  practice 
swimming,  to  be  ready  for  the  floods  that  come  down  from  the  distant 
Andes  soon  after  the*y  are  born. 

The  oil  man  ascends  the  river,  with  a fleet  of  canoes  in  company, 
manned  w'ith  workmen,  loaded  with  provisions,  copper  boilers,  spades, 
&c.  They  know  the  time  the  turtle  has  laid  its  last  egg,  and  while  the 
eggs  are  fresh,  they  dig  them  from  the  sand,  beginning  on  one  side  of  the 
island,  and  turning  up  the  soil  to  the  proper  depth.  They  throw  out 
the  eggs  like  potatoes,  while  others  gather  them  up  in  baskets.  A 
canoe  is  washed  out,  and  the  eggs  thrown  in  and  thoroughly  broken  by 
means  of  forked  sticks.  The  soft  shell  or  skin,  is  pitched  out;  a quan- 
tity of  water  poured  in  and  left  to  stand  in  the  sun.  The  oil  rises  on 
the  surface ; this  is  skimmed  off  and  heated  in  copper  boilers.  Being 
put  up  in  large  earthen  jars  or  pots,  containing  four  or  five  gallons,  it  is 
sold  in  the  markets  of  the  Amazon.  In  Para,  the  price  per  pound  va- 
ries from  five  to  ten  mil  reis.  One  silver  dollar  of  Bolivia  money  is  now 
worth  eighteen  hundred  reis.  While  the  “ manteca” — butter  or  oil — is 
fresh,  it  is  used  for  culinary  purposes.  The  cook,  of  course,  knows 
nothing  of  the  number  of  young  turtles  which  may  have  been  boiled  in 
it  during  the  late  period  of  digging.  Its  general  use,  however,  is  for 
lamp  oil.  The  annual  supply  from  all  the  rivers  in  the  Amazon  basm 
is  consumed  within  the  mouths  of  these  rivers. 

Turtle  are  now  said  to  be  scarce.  We  see  millions  of  eggs  destroyed 
by  the  oil-hunters,  who  search  all  the  islands,  and  drive  the  turtles  from 
one  to  the  other.  The  men  tell  me  there  are  no  eggs  to  be  found  on 
the  island  they  worked  at  last  year.  The  mother  turtle  was  disap- 
pointed the  little  ■ ones  never  made  their  appearance  from  out  of  the 


EGG-HUNTERS. 


305 


sand  where  eggs  were  deposited,  although  they  are  not  wise  enough  to 
understand  the  boiling  process  their  eggs  had  undergone,  yet,  some- 
thing was  known  to  be  wrong,  and  placing  no  faith  in  that  sand  bank, 
every  one  deserted  it,  and  made  use  of  an  island  they  would  not  have 
chosen  had  they  been  let  alone.  There  the  oil  man  continues  to  follow 
them.  These  turtle  are  called  by  the  Brazilians  “ Tortaruga  Grande.” 
There  are  said  to  be  four  other  kinds  in  the  Madeira  river,  viz.,  “ Cabe- 
cuda,”  “ Trocaja,”  “Pitehu and  “Matd-mata.”  The  Tortaruga  Grande 
is  the  best  for  eating  and  for  oil ; they  are  also  in  greater  abundance  than 
the  others. 

Huts  are  built  in  the  sand  for  the  protection  of  the  hunters  against 
the  great  heats  of  the  sun  in  the  day,  and  the  rains.  The  men,  who  are 
of  Amazon  Indian  blood,  have  their  wives  with  them.  There  are  few 
negroes  at  this  business.  Brazilians,  of  Portuguese  descent,  gather  a 
band  of  adventurers,  or  fishermen,  who  are  willing  to  leave  their  homes 
for  this  wild  country,  and  seek  their  fortunes  among  the  sands,  where  no 
diamonds  have  yet  been  found.  The  life  is  a hard  one ; the  exposure  on 
the  voyage,  and  after  they  arrive  on  the  ground,  is  great.  Many  of 
them  have  fevers,  their  provisions  get  short,  the  water  is  warm,  and 
unless  the  work  is  carried  on  at  a rapid  rate,  the  young  turtles  begin  to 
form  in  the  egg,  which  impairs  the  quality  of  the  oil — to  say  nothing  of 
the  butter.  Great  quantities  of  rum  are  consumed  on  these  expeditions. 
The  Portuguese  set  up  shop  where  rum  is  sold,  and  a debtor  and  credit 
account  is  opened  with  the  Indian  workmen  ; in  the  same  wray  the  creole 
miner  does  with  those  of  the  Andes,  making  profit,  while  he  pays  the 
workmen’s  monthly  wages — from  three  to  five  dollars — with  provisions. 

The  workmen  soon  get  tired  and  want  to  return.  The  employer 
takes  out  a passport  for  them  all  at  the  last  military  post  as  he  ascends  ; 
they  are  forbidden  to  travel  about  the  country  without  one.  The  work- 
man is  held  to  his  promise  to  remain  during  the  season,  good  treatment 
or  bad,  by  retaining  his  passport.  Our  crew  became  intoxicated  among 
their  countrymen,  and  danced  part  of  the  night  with  Amazonian  girls, 
to  the  tune  of  violins,  in  the  huts,  while  heavy  rain  poured  down  in 
large  drops,  accompanied  with  thunder  and  sharp  lightning.  "Wind 
blowing  fresh  from  northeast. 

October  3. — The  crew  wished  to  remain  among  these  greasy  people, 
but  as  we  preferred  floating  on  by  the  current,  to  laying  by  the  side  of 
the  oil  canoes  and  hot  sand  bank,  wre  pushed  off  with  a mail  on  board. 
As  we  descend,  the  river  stretches  out  in  long  bends  towards  the  north- 
east. Tw'enty-five  fathoms  sounding  and  no  bottom.  The  width  varies 
20 


306 


MURAS  INDIANS. 


from  six  hundred  to  a thousand  yards.  The  country  is  level ; the  growth 
of  trees  decreasing  in  size  the  lower  we  go. 

October  4. — At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  88°;  water,  S'/0.  The  small 
streams  which  flow  in  from  the  eastern  side  are  of  a deep  green  color, 
at  87°  temperature.  The  banks  are  twelve  feet  high,  and  break  down 
perpendicularly. 

October  5. — This  morning  we  met  four  “ Muras”  Indians  fishing  with 
bows  and  arrows  mid-channel,  in  small  canoes,  hewn  from  one  log. 
One  canoe  contained  a woman  and  two  children,  under  the  thatched 
roof  of  a little  cabin.  These  people  were  all  dressed  in  decent  fashion. 
The  women  wore  a calico  frock  ! The  men  were  larger  than  the  Cari- 
punas,  and  more  reserved  ; it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  get  them  to 
stop  and  sell  us  a paddle;  we  wanted  to  replace  a broken  one.  A knife 
was  paid  for  it,  when  they  desired  to  push  off  from  us.  Probably  they 
were  ashamed  of  being  fishermen  without  any  fish ; or  had,  at  some 
time,  met  with  ill  treatment.  Sounded  with  twenty-three  fathoms,  no 
bottom.  A short  distance  further  down,  got  bottom  at  thirty-six  feet, 
and  lost  both  lead  and  line.  There  are  a few  snags  in  the  channel, 
among  which  our  line  was  entangled. 

My  bilious  has  now  turned  to  ague  and  fever.  The  stench  from  the 
muddy  banks,  and  stagnant  pools  of  water,  has  become  exceedingly  of- 
fensive, and  at  night  we  have  musquitoes,  which  we  were  not  troubled 
with  among  the  falls.  The  current  varies  in  its  speed  from  an  half  to 
two  miles  per  hour,  showing  an  uneven  surface.  The  ground  over 
which  it  flows  is  sloping  in  steps,  or  shelving,  which  gives  the  outward 
motion  of  the  water  a jerking  impetus.  Islands,  long  and  narrow,  di- 
vide the  stream  into  two  channels  ; yet  the  depth  of  water,  and  width 
of  the  passages,  are  sufficient  for  all  commercial  purposes.  Pedro  tells 
me  the  “ Toras”  tribe  of  Indians  inhabit  the  east  side  of  the  river ; we, 
however,  saw  nothing  of  them. 

October  6. — We  landed  on  the  west  bank,  at  “ Roscenia  de  Crato,” 
which  is  a frontier  post  of  the  Brazilians,  on  the  Madeira.  The  entire 
country  between  this  settlement  and  the  town  of  Exaltacion,  in  Bolivia, 
is  inhabited  by  savages.  The  Portuguese  have  ascended  the  Amazon 
and  Madeira  thus  far  on  their  southwestward  emigration.  The  Span- 
iards, who  crossed  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  and  the  mountains  of  Bolivia, 
are  now  on  their  northeast  descent,  to  meet  the  Brazilians.  The  move- 
ment, on  both  sides,  is  slow,  but  the  white  man  is  crowding  close  upon 
each  flank  of  the  savage,  who  now  occupies  but  a narrow  strip  of  land 
between  the  emigrants  from  Spain  and  Portugal — gradually  working 
through  the  wilderness  towards  each  other. 


ROSCEXIA  DE  CRAXO. 


' 307 


Crato  belongs,  partly,  to  my  friend  Don  Antonio  Cordoza.  A few 
years  ago,  his  father  established  a trading  station  here,  where  the  In- 
dians come  in  from  the  wild  woods  with  sarsaparilla,  Brazil  nuts,  choco- 
late, pitch,  and  guarana,  prepared  from  the  seed  of  a fruit  found  in  the 
woods,  represented  to  be  somewhat  like  the  wild  cherry.  The  Indians 
mash  the  seed  between  stones,  and  make  a paste  by  adding  water ; after 
being  dried  in  the  sun,  it  is  rolled  in  one  pound  weights,  and  is  sold  at 
the  station  at  fifty  cents  per  pound.  Don  Antonio  sold  guarana  in 
Trinidad  at  four  dollars.  The  Spaniards  are  exceedingly  fond  of  it ; the 
price  has  heen  as  high  as  eight  dollars  a pound,  in  the  mountains  of  Bo- 
livia. Guarana  resembles  prepared  chocolate ; a small  quantity  grated 
in  a tumbler  of  water  with  sugar,  makes  not  only  a very  refreshing,  but 
a strengthening  drink.  The  Indians  use  it  when  hunting  or  marching, 
thinking  it  enables  them  to  undergo  a great  amount  of  fatigue.  The 
trader  pays  the  Indian  in  rum,  hatchets,  knives,  fish-hooks,  beads,  &c. 
We  find  four  or  five  houses,  inhabited  by  squatters,  surrounded  by  a 
beautiful  pampa  country ; here  and  there  clusters  of  forest  trees.  On 
the  plains  the  pasture  proves  excellent  for  the  few  cattle  and  horses  that 
have  been  brought  up  the  river.  Quantities  of  chickens  flourish  about 
the  house,  with  dogs  and  fat  hogs. 

The  families  are  of  Portuguese  descent.  A hamac  was  slung  for  me 
in  a house  with  a parlor  on  one  side  and  a small  sugar-mill  on  the  other. 
While  the  olive  colored  women  sat  sewing,  the  man  was  employed  put- 
ting sugar-cane  between  the  vertical  wooden  cylinders,  as  our  men 
turned  the  beam  by  hand  to  get  some  sugar  juice  to  refresh  themselves. 
The  people  were  extremely  kind  and  attentive.  Mrs.  Santa  Ana,  the 
wife  of  the  man  to  whom  we  brought  letters,  doctored  us  with  chicken 
tea,  declaring  “ people  died  with  the  fever  in  this  country  who  would 
not  eat.” 

The  soil  is  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  the  sugar-cane.  We  are  told 
the  country  far  west  is  a prairie  for  a long  distance,  covered  with  fine 
pasture.  The  Indians  are  called  “ Muras  they  are  fond  of  trading, 
and  less  warlike  than  some  others,  of  whom  little  is  known.  They  seem 
to  be  pleased  with  the  difference  between  rum  and  sarsaparilla. 

We  remained  here  all  night  to  give  the  men  a rest,  and  try  to  get 
one  night’s  sleep  ourselves,  but  there  was  no  rest  with  a high  fever.  The 
river  water  cooled  in  an  earthen  monkey  was  refreshing. 

Our  boat  was  well  washed  out,  and  the  baggage  restowed  ; a large 
hog  killed  for  the  men,  and  our  chicken  basket  filled  with  fowls.  We 
were  requested  to  take  charge  of  the  mail,  a handful  of  letters,  and  em- 
barked with  many  thanks  to  our  friends  on  the  frontier. 


30S  ' 


INDIAN  TOWN PIRARUCU  FISH. 


Soundings  vary  from  seven  to  twenty-one  and  a Half  fathoms.  At  3 
p.  m.,  thermometer,  92°;  water,  86° ; calm. 

October  8. — During  the  night  we  had  heavy  rain,  sharp  lightning,  and 
thunder  from  northeast.  At  9 a.  m , thermometer,  83°;  water,  85°.  At 
3 p.  m.,  thermometer,  88°;  water,  86°.  The  rest  at  Crato  has  refreshed 
us  all ; the  men  pull  stoutly ; they  are  now  civil  and  attentive,  showing 
a desire  to  behave  themselves  well,  though  we  find  a free  negro  the 
most  difficult  character  to  control.  The  Indian  attends  to  his  duty 
without  being  told  to  do  so.  The  negroes  begin  to  fear  a difficulty  with 
us,  and  are  coming  round,  not  only  to  their  daily  work,  with  more 
spirit,  but  are  particular  to  show  us  respect.  We  would  decline  an 
offer  of  a boat’s  crew  of  free  negroes  on  another  such  expedition.  We 
have  felt  that  had  these  men  not  been  aware  we  were  well  on  our 
guard  since  they  shot  our  dog,  they  would  have  murdered  us  without 
the  least  hesitation.  They  disputed  our  authority  and  wanted  to  let 
us  know  it. 

In  the  afternoon,  as  a black  cloud  comes  from  the  northeast,  the  wind 
turns  up  the  sand  on  the  beach  and  islands  above  the  deep  green  foliage. 
As  the  thunder  roars  and  lightning  flashes,  we  leave  the  troubled  waters 
of  mid-channel  and  seek  a safe  little  inlet  in  the  bank,  and  secure  the  boat 
till  the  raging  storm  passes.  On  the  west  bank  was  a small  town  of  the 
Muras  Indians,  built  of  palmetto  wood,  and  thatched  with  the  wild  palm 
leaf ; it  appeared  to  be  deserted.  The  banks  were  forty  feet  high,  of 
red  clay,  and  perpendicular.  On  the  east  side  of  the  river  there  were 
patches  of  maize.  The  forest  trees  are  of  less  height  as  we  descend ; 
long  islands  stretch  from  three  to  five  miles,  dividing  the  river  in  twain. 
At  the  mouth  of  a small,  clear,  green  water  stream,  we  met  a party  of 
Indians  fishing  in  a log  canoe.  The  men  were  naked,  and  the  women 
dressed  in  frocks.  On  one  of  the  sand  islands  was  their  temporary  hut. 

October  12. — At  9 a.  m.,  thermometer,  83°;  water,  86°.  For  the  last 
three  days  we  have  passed  through  an  uninhabited  region,  without 
meeting  with  obstructions  to  steamboat  navigation.  The  current  one 
mile  per  hour,  and  river  in  some  places  one  mile  wide.  We  met  with 
a fishing  “ cuberta,”  at  anchor.  This  vessel  is  an  Amazon  craft,  used 
for  trading  up  and  down  these  rivers  under  sail,  or  polled,  or  towed 
along  the  bank  when  the  river  is  low.  We  went  alongside  and  pur- 
chased a dried  “ pirarucu  ” fish,  which  we  all  fancied  the  taste  of  at 
once ; it  was  new  both  to  us  and  to  the  Cuyaba  negroes.  Pirarucus  are 
taken  by  the  arrow,  as  they  swim  near  the  surface  of  the  water ; it  has 
a small  head  and  thick  body,  covered  with  scales;  they  are  found  here 
from  six  to  eight  feet  long.  After  it  is  salted  and  dried  in  the  sun,  the 


PORTO  DE  MATAURA. 


309 


meat  keeps  well  twelve  months ; boatmen  toast  or  boil  it  without  smoth- 
ering it  in  potatoes  ; it  has  no  offensive  smell,  like  boiled  dried  cod-fish. 
We  are  told  the  fish  called  “ peixe  boi,”  (bull-fish,)  of  the  Madeira,  is  the 
same  as  the  “vaca- marina,”  (sea-cow,)  of  the  Ucayali,  though  compar- 
atively there  are  few  taken.  The  captain  of  the  “ cuberta  ” was  loung- 
ing about  the  vessel  with  his  coat  off,  while  one  or  two  men  were  up 
the  river  in  a small  canoe  fishing.  The  cable,  by  which  the  vessel  swung 
to  her  anchor,  was  made  of  a black  grass  like  stuff,  taken  from  a species 
of  palm-trees  found  on  the  Rio  Negro,  called  “piassaba,”  said  to  last 
longer  in  the  water  than  out  of  it.  Different-sized  ropes  are  made  of 
the  piassaba,  but  the  cordage  of  the  vessel  was  generally  of  Kentucky 
hemp.  Her  measurement  was  not  over  sixteen  tons,  rigged  schooner 
fashion.  On  deck,  between  the  cabin  and  the  forward  house,  was  a 
large  box  filled  with  earth,  on  which  the  crew  built  a fire  and  cooked 
fish  and  turtle.  We  handed  the  captain  a Bolivian  silver  dollar  in  pay- 
ment for  fish,  which  he  seemed  pleased  to  take,  and  gave  us  large  cop- 
per coins  in  change.  Titto,  our  negro  sergeant,  had  to  explain  the  value 
of  Bolivian  silver  in  Brazil  money. 

At  Porto  de  Mataura  a guard-house  is  situated  on  the  east  bank. 
Richards  climbed  up  the  steep  bank,  and  presented  passports  to  the  com- 
mander, who  was  kind  enough  to  send  an  officer  to  offer  us  a house  if 
we  would  remain.  The  officer  returned  again  with  a present  of  a couple 
of  watermelons,  said  to  be  an  uncertain  remedy  for  fever  and  ague. 
They  were  small,  only  half  ripe,  but  soon  devoured,  as  they  were  the 
only  refreshing  thing  we  had  seen,  except  a little  sugar-cane,  since  leav- 
ing the  fort.  The  suffering  from  fever  was  increased  to  agony  when 
the  same  dose  had  been  imprudently  repeated.  Drinking  water  was  87°, 
and  the  temperature  of  the  air,  in  the  shade,  89°.  Under  such  circum- 
stances fruits  and  melons  are  luxurious.  The  temptation  is  great,  but 
the  sick  should  be  particularly  guarded  against  using  such  injurious 
articles,  however  pleasant  to  the  taste. 

As  we  move  on  the  lands  become  more  elevated,  and  are  better 
adapted  for  cultivation  than  others  below  Crato.  The  forest  trees  are 
small  where  the  lands  are  free  from  inundation,  corresponding  to  obser- 
vations made  as  we  floated  into  the  middle  of  Madeira  Plate,  near  Ex- 
altacion.  Small  streams  of  water  flow  in  from  the  east,  while,  on  the 
west,  “madres,”  or  large  pools,  have  an  outlet  through  the  bank.  The 
rule  is,  high  banks  on  the  east  side  of  the  Madeira,  and  low  to  the  west, 
with  few  exceptions.  Springs  are  scarce.  The  water  trickling  down 
the  blue,  red,  or  yellow  banks  is  the  coolest,  even  after  being  bottled  and 


310 


BORBA. 


stowed  under  our  seats.  The  air  is  96°  Fahrenheit;  the  heat  is  very 
oppressive.  Under  us  there  are  twenty-four  feet  water  ; in  some  places 
no  bottom  at  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  feet.  As  the  river  rolls  along 
straighter,  we  find  more  irregularity  in  the  channel,  and  width,  in  some 
places,  full  one  mile.  On  both  banks  we  see  small  houses,  with  a few 
plantain  and  orange  trees  about  them.  These  are  the  settlements  of  the 
descendants  of  the  Portuguese.  A canoe  or  two  lay  by  the  bank  oppo- 
site each  house.  As  we  swiftly  passed  along,  by  the  force  of  paddles — 
for  the  current  was  only  one  mile  per  hour — the  bright  moon  rose  up 
over  the  sea  of  foliage  and  lit  our  way  to  the  town  of  Borba,  on  the  14th 
of  October,  1852. 

With  a bundle  of  letters,  I crawled  up  the  steep  bank  to  the  house  of 
Capitan  Diogo,  father  of  my  friend  Don  Antonio.  He  ran  his  fingers 
through  grey  locks  of  hair,  and  laughed  at  the  idea  of  a man’s  getting 
sick  on  such  a voyage ; gave  me  a horrible  cup  of  tea  made  from  the 
leaves  of  a bush  found  in  the  woods,  which  put  me  to  sleep,  'as  he  was 
boasting  of  his  extraordinary  long  travels  up  and  down  the  rivers,  and 
how  he  used  to  doctor  himself.  He  was  very  cheerful  until  he  counted 
the  money  brought  from  his  son  and  partner,  when  he  wanted  to  know 
“ if  that  was  all  Antonio  had  made  on  his  trip  to  Bolivia.” 

In  the  morning  our  baggage  was  brought  up,  and  the  soldiers  turned 
over  to  the  commander  of  police.  Borba  is  a small  town  of  three  hun- 
dred inhabitants.  Two  rows  of  miserable  wooden  huts  stand  parallel 
with  a most  distressingly  dilapidated  church ; bells,  old  and  cracked,  are 
hung  under  a small  shed  near  the  door.  On  the  soil,  whence  the  forest 
trees  had  been  cleared,  was  a thick  sod  of  small  bladed  grass,  on  which 
a few  poor,  slim-looking  cows  were  pasturing.  Large  and  fat  hogs  came 
grunting  at  the  door.  The  hot  sun  had  deadened  the  wool  on  the  backs 
of  a few  sheep,  and  in  its  place,  a fleece  of  stright,  grey  hair  came  out 
as  a substitute.  When  man  forces  the  animal  intended  by  God  for  a 
cold  climate  into  a hot  one,  a new  nature  comes  to  the  poor,  panting 
creature’s  relief,  and  puts  upon  it  a coat  of  cool  hair,  instead  of  the  hot 
woollen  one. 

The  Spaniards  have  forced  the  hog  so  high  up  on  the  Andes  that  he 
suffers  every  time  he  raises  his  bristles,  and  dies  out  of  place  ; while  the 
Portuguese  find  it  impossible  to  produce  good  mutton  or  wool  on  the 
hot  plains  of  the  Amazon.  Indians,  in  a warm  climate,  grease  or  oil 
their  naked  skins  as  a protection  from  the  sun,  or  that  the  rains  may 
slide  off  the  more  easy ; while  those  we  saw  on  the  frozen  mountain 
tops,  clothed  themselves  in  wool,  and  greased  their  insides  with  mutton. 


MANNERS  OF  THE  INHABITANTS.  311 

• 

They  appear  to  understand  perfectly  why  the  earth  was  provided  with 
meat  and  clothing. 

The  inhabitants  of  Borba  are  principally  negroes,  who  are  very  noisy, 
both  in-doors  and  out ; one-half  of  them  are  slaves.  Those  of  Portu- 
guese descent  are  extremely  indolent.  We  observed  few  children  of 
any  color.  The  women  wear  their  hair  put  up  behind  with  large  tor- 
toise-shell combs,  fancifully  carved.  Their  dresses  are  very  short-waisted, 
which  gives  them  a more  awkward  appearance  than  they  really  deserve. 
The  men  wear  trousers,  and  a shirt  with  the  tail  outside,  which  looks 
cool.  Neither  sex  walk  out  except  to  church,  when  they  dress  in  deep 
black  cloth  and  silks,  with  gold  ornaments  and  diamonds  in  profusion, 
•brought  from  the  head-waters  of  the  Tapajos — or  to  the  river  to  bathe, 
when  they  leave  almost  all  wearing  apparel  at  home. 

The  houses  are  of  one-story  and  long ; there  are  no  doors  hinged  be- 
tween the  rooms,  only  those  opening  to  the  street.  Curtains  are  hung 
from  the  upper  part  of  the  doorways  to  within  a few  inches  of  the  brick 
floor.  One  day  a fresh  breeze  blew  into  the  windows,  and  the  draft 
through  the  doors  raised  up  all  the  curtains,  when  we  discovered  the 
family  seated  on  a rug,  spread  on  the  floor,  sewing.  The  girls  were 
pretty,  with  large  deep  black  eyes  and  hair  ; they  quickly  pulled  their 
little  bare  feet  under  their  dresses,  and  laughed  heartily  at  the  sudden 
surprise.  Their  hair  was  all  down ; hooks  and  eyes  not  fastened.  The 
lady  of  the  house  was  very  kind  on  her  side  of  the  curtain,  handed 
Quinine  and  Port  wine  on  our  side  to  the  Capitan,  who  declared  he  could 
cure  the  fever  in  a short  time.  He  insisted  upon  my  joining  him  every 
night  at  ten  in  a hot  supper ; at  the  same  hour  in  the  morning  at  break- 
fast, and  disapproved  of  sleeping — which  was  all  we  wanted,  except  to 
get  out  of  the  country  as  soon  as  possible.  Our  bread  was  made  of 
Richmond  flour,  which  is  said  to  keep  better  in  this  climate  than  more 
northern  flour  from  the  United  States.  Whether  this  is  owing  to  the 
mode  of  grinding  the  grain,  or  a difference  in  the  character  of  the  wheat 
itself,  is  to  be  tested.  Turtle  and  chicken  were  the  principal  meats,  with 
coffee  and  Portuguese  red  wine.  The  tobacco,  which  is  produced  on  the 
banks  of  the  Madeira,  is  said  to  be  superior  in  quality  to  any  in  Brazil. 
It  is  made  up  in  rolls,  seven  feet  long  and  three  inches  in  diameter, 
carefully  wrapped  up  in  a strip  of  rattan  closely  wound  round  it.  Each 
staff  contains  two  pounds ; bundles  of  them  are  exported,  with  cacao, 
Brazil  nuts,  coffee,  and  sarsaparilla,  to  the  Atlantic  coast. 

The  trade  of  Borba  is  insignificant.  According  to  Capitan  Diogo’s 
account,  there  are  not  more  than  two  thousand  people,  Indians  and  all, 


312 


DESCEND  THE  MADEIRA. 

• 

inhabiting  the  banks  of  the  Madeira,  principally  found  near  the  stream ; 
the  country  in  the  interior  being  a -wilderness,  tangled,  matted,  and  in 
places  swampy,  where  alligators  bask  in  the  sun  on  the  beaten-down 
grass,  and  tigers  roam  freely  after  tapir  tracks.  At  the  small  farms, 
near  Borba,  sugar-canes  are  raised  and  rum  is  manufactured — a greater 
quantity  of  the  latter  article  being  consumed  in  Brazil,  the  trade  in  it 
seems  to  be  the  most  extensive  of  all  others.  A few  watermelons, 
oranges,  and  limes  are  raised,  but  less  than  are  required  for  home  con- 
sumption. 

There  were  no  men  belonging  to  Borba  to  take  us  on.  The  autho  r 
ities  ordered  the  soldiers  who  came  with  us  to  go  on.  I regretted  this 
for  two  reasons.  One,  that  we  were  in  hopes  of  getting  rid  of  tnese, 
impudent,  half-savage  free  negroes,  who  refused  positively  to  obey  the 
authorities  of  the  town.  Another,  that  the  commander  of  Beira  wished 
me  to  send  them  back  as  soon  as  possible  after  we  arrived  here,  as  it 
would  take  them  five  months  to  regain  their  posts.  But  I found  they 
were  obliged  to  go  as  far  as  Barra  do  rio  Negro,  to  purchase  a little 
iron,  which,  with  some  guarana,  they  had  been  ordered  to  carry  to  the 
fort,  and  to  our  surprise,  the  men  wanted  to  go  with  us  in  preference  to 
remaining  in  Borba,  or  returning  to  their  usual  duties.  A larger  boat 
was  fitted  out.  Pedro,  our  pilot,  was  paid  off,  as  his  services  -were 
needed  as  boat-builder  by  the  Capitan,  who  filled  our  basket  with  chick- 
ens, and  gave  us  a water-cooler.  Two  large  cakes,  with  a jar  of  pre- 
served oranges,  were  sent  to  the  boat  by  the  wife  of  our  friend  Don  An- 
tonio, whose  little  child  came  to  thank  us  for  bringing  letters  from  the 
father  and  husband.  The  kind  old  Capitan  gave  me  particular  instruc- 
tions about  the  fever,  which  he  had  partly  cured,  while  he  nearly  killed 
the  patient.  We  pushed  off  with  three  Portuguese  passengers. 

The  river  was  thirty  feet  above  its  present  level,  in  the  rainy  season, 
and  has  now  thirty  feet  depth  off  Borba.  A vessel  may  lay  moored  to 
the  bank  of  the  river.  There  is  stone  at  hand  for  building  wharves  if 
needed.  The  northeast  trade-winds  blow  fresh,  and  we  find  a difficulty 
in  making  head-way  ; the  current  of  the  river  has  slackened  to  half  a 
mile  per  hour.  The  winds  blow  directly  in  opposition  to  it,  which  baffles 
us  considerably.  In  the  evening,  the  wind  falls  away,  and  we  push  off 
from  the  bank  where  the  boat  is  fastened,  to  hold  what  we  have  gained. 

At  some  small  huts  we  find  Muras  Indians  sleeping,  who  seem  very 
indifferent  about  selling  a few  thick-skinned,  insipid  oranges. 

Among  the  heavy  night  dews  are  intermingled  an  equal  portion  of 
hungry  musquitoes.  The  nights  and  mornings  are  beautifully  clear. 


CROSSING  THE  MOUTH  OF  THE  MADEIRA  RIVER.  Brazil. 


MOUTH  OF  THE  MADEIRA. 


313 


On  the  afternoon  of  the  29  th  of  October,  we  crossed  the  river  from 
the  east  to  the  west  bank,  being  forced  to  do  so,  as  the  wind  created  a 
sea,  and  we  lay  uncomfortably  moored  to  a snag;  when  half  way  over, 
our  little  craft  struggled  and  dipped  in  the  water.  Richards  bailed  out 
manfully,  while  the  men  became  frightened ; we  kept  her  bow  angling 
the  sea  till  she  reached  in  safety  the  opposite  shore,  where  the  negroes, 
hearts  returned  to  their  places,  but  their  eyes  stretched  wide  open,  as 
they  looked  back  at  the  troubled  stream,  saying  they  never  saw  water 
behave  so  furious  before. 

During  the  21st  of  October  we  lay  all  day  by  a sand  island,  unable  to 
proceed  until  evening.  When  the  wind  died  away,  we  paddled  on  by 
the  light  of  the  moon.  As  the  negroes  lifted  their  paddles  out  of  the 
water,  we  dipped  the  thermometer  in  the  Madeira  for  the  last  time,  88° 
Fahrenheit.  Suddenly,  the  bow  of  our  little  canoe  touched  the  deep 
waters  of  the  mighty  Amazon.  A beautiful,  apple-shaped  island,  with 
deep  green  foliage,  and  sandy  beach  encircling  it,  lies  in  the  mouth 
of  the  great  serpentine  Madeira.  The  mouth  opens  by  two  channels. 
We  find  seventy-eight  feet  depth,  near  the  western  side,  which  is  six 
hundred  yards  wide,  with  high  banks,  well  wooded,  but  no  marks  or 
traces  of  civilization.  A long  sand-spit  hung  out  over  the  lower  mouth, 
like  a great  tongue,  on  which  lay  turtles  and  bird’s  eggs.  The  east  side 
of  the  mouth  was  about  three-quarters  of  a mile  wide.  A few  houses 
stood  on  the  back  ground,  where  the  country  was  more  elevated  towards 
the  southeast. 

Now  that  we  are  at  the  mouth  of  this  magnificent  stream,  we  find 
no  deeply  loaded  vessels  enter  it.  The  value  of  the  present  foreign  trade 
of  South  Peru  and  Bolivia  may  be  worth  ten  millions  of  dollars  per 
annum. 

The  distance  from  the  foot  of  San  Antonio  falls  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Madeira,  is  five  hundred  miles  by  the  river.  A vessel  drawing  six  feet 
water  may  navigate  this  distance  at  any  season  of  the  year.  A cargo  from 
the  United  States  could  reach  the  foot  of  the  falls,  on  the  Madeira,  with- 
in thirty  days.  By  a common  mule  road,  through  the  territory  of 
Brazil,  the  goods  might  be  passed  from  the  lower  to  the  upper  falls  on 
the  Mamore,  in  less  than  seven  days,  a distance  of  about  one  hundred 
and  eighty  miles ; thence  by  steamboat,  on  that  river  and  the  Chapare, 
a distance  of  five  hundred  miles  to  Vinchuta,  in  four  days.  Ten  days 
more  from  the  base  of  the  Andes,  over  the  road  we  travelled,  would 
make  fifty-one  days  passage  from  Baltimore  to  Cochabamba,  or  fifty- 
nine  days  to  La  Paz,  the  commercial  emporium  of  Bolivia,  where  cargoes 


314 


ROUTE  BY  THE  MADEIRA. 


arrive  generally  from  Baltimore  in  one  hundred  and  eighteen  days,  by 
Cape  Horn — often  delayed  on  their  way  through  the  territory  of  Peru 
from  the  seaport  of  Arica.  Goods  by  the  Madeira  route,  sent  over  the 
Cordillera  range  to  the  Pacific  coast,  might  get  there  one  month  before  a 
ship  could  arrive  from  Europe  on  the  eastern  coast  of  the  United  States, 
by  two  oceans  or  the  old  route. 


APPENDIX. 


OBSERVATIONS  WITH  SEXTANT  AND  ARTIFICIAL  HORIZON. 


316 


APPENDIX. 


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317 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


318  APPENDIX, 


APPENDIX. 


319 


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320 


APPENDIX. 


APPENDIX. 


321 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS— Continued. 


322 


APPENDIX. 


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324 


APPENDIX 


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325 


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326 


APPENDIX. 


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323 


APPENDIX 


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329 


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330 


APPENDIX, 


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332 


APPENDIX 


APPENDIX 


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334 


APPENDIX. 


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METEOROLOG IC AL  OBSERVATIONS— Continued . 


336 


APPENDIX. 


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338 


APPENDIX, 


Table  of  distances  in  South  Peru,  by  government  measurement. 


Leagues. 


From  Cuzco*  to  Isco-chaca 4 

Surite 3 

Lima-Tambo 6 

Mollepata... ...  4 

La  Banca 4 

Curabuasi 5 

Abancay. . 6 

Carhnacahua 5 

Huancarama 3 

Pincos 4 

Argama 3 

Andahuailas 3 

Moyobamba  ....... ....  4 

Uripa 6 

Bombon 3 

Ocros 9 

Matard 3 

Pucuvilca 5 

Ayacueko 4 


84 


Huanta 6 

M areas 6 

Parco* 6 

Paucard 4 

Huancavelica 10 


116 

Cotay 10 

Turpo 6 

Vjflac 8 

Lunahuana  .... v 13 

Asia 15 

Chilea 8 

L u rin 7 

Lima 6 


189 


Oiopesa 4 

San  Rogue 3 

Quiquijana 5 

Cheecacupe 5 

Caeha 4 

Sieuani 3 

Agua  Caliente 5 

Santa  Rosa 8 

Ayavire 8 

Pucarii 6 

Lampa 9 

^uliaca 7 

Caracoto 2 

Pauearcolla 5 

Puno 3 


77 


Leagues. 


From  Puno  to  Chucuito 4 

Aeora. 3 

Ylave 5 

Juli 5 

Poinata 4 

Tambillo 3 

Zepita 4 


Desaguedere 2 

30 


From  Cuzco  to  Oropesa  . c , 4 

San  Rogue 3 

Quiguijana 5 

Oheccapue 5 

Cacha 4 

Sicuani 3 

Langui 5 

Laurayani 6 

Huichuma 6 

Ocoruro 9 

Rinconada 3 

Rumihuasi 7 

Ayavirine 5 

Colca 4 

Haallata 8 

Apo 6 

Cangallo 7 

Arequipa 5 


95 


From  Arequipa  to  Tambo 24 

Morro 10 

Puquina 14 

Moquegua 2 

Sitana 12 

Sama  9 

Tacna 9 

Arica  . 12 

Chaca 10 

Camaiones 9 

Cbesa 7 

Aroma 21 

Trapacfi 6 


145 


From  Puno  to  Pauearcolla 3 

Caracoto... 5 

Lampa 9 

Azdngaro 15 

Crucero — capital  of  Car- 
abaya 16 


48 


* Capitals  of  Departments  in  italics. 


APPENDIX, 


339 


Distances  between  Capitals  of  Departments  in  Bolivia , by  government 

measurement. 


League?. 


From  Sucre  to  Poioai 29 

Tarija 96 

Cobija 187 

Oruro 74 

La  Paz 129 

Cochabamba 65 

Santa  Cruz 127 

Trinidad,  by  Cochabam- 
ba  265 

From  Potosi  to  Tarija 80 

Cobija 158 

Oruro 68 

La  Paz 112 

Cochabamba 80 

Santa  Cruz 156 

Trinidad 280 

From  Tarija  to  Cobija 150 

Oruro 43 

La  Paz 192 

Cochabamba 160 

Santa  Cruz 210 

Trinidad 360 


Leagues- 


From  Cobija  to  Oruro 183 

La  Paz  232 

Cochabamba 219 

Santa  Cruz,  by  Potosi 

and  Cochabamba 345 

Trinidad,  by  Potosi,  Co- 
chabamba, and  Santa 
Cruz 535 

From  Oruro  to  La  Paz 49 

Cochabamba 36 

Santa  Cruz 143 

Trinidad 236 

From  La  Paz  to  Cochabamba 80 

Santa  Cruz 187 

Trinidad,  by  Apolobamba  250 

From  Cochabamba  to  Santa  Cruz 107 

Trinidad 200 

From  Santa  Cruz  to  Trinidad 199 


* 


